If you’re here because you want to make chickweed salve, chances are you’re already familiar with chickweed itself… But just in case you aren’t, let’s start with a quick background lesson.

What is Chickweed?

Chickweed (stellaria media) is a tender, edible, and nutritious annual herb. It’s often thought of as a “weed”, commonly found growing in the shade in backyards, open fields, and riparian habitats during the cool wet season. Chickweed is originally native to Europe but has been naturalized throughout the United States, Canada, and beyond. Historically, chickweed has been used by Native Americans for centuries in herbal medicine and skincare. 

Learn more about chickweed here, including foraging, cultivation, harvest, and identification tips. 

What is Chickweed Salve?

Chickweed salve is a soothing golden-green topical balm made with the chickweed plant, natural oil, and wax (usually beeswax). The first step in making chickweed salve is to soak or infuse dried chickweed in oil, which extracts the beneficial compounds from the plant material into the oil. Then, the infused oil is combined with other ingredients like beeswax to make it more firm and spreadable, creating a salve or balm. 

You can also customize your homemade chickweed salve recipe and add optional ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E oil, other skin-friendly herbs (e.g. calendula, chamomile, rosehips, or lavender), or essential oils to enhance the moisturizing and healing benefits. For example, I often like to soak half chickweed and half calendula in oil to make an extra-rejuvenating salve!

Benefits of Chickweed Salve

Chickweed possesses many therapeutic qualities that make it wonderful for natural skincare and healing! First, it’s loaded with numerous vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants including Vitamin C, beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc. Chickweed also has potent cooling, drying, analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-fungal properties. When combined with moisturizing natural oils and beeswax, this gives chickweed salve the ability to fight skin inflammation, reduce redness, itching, and more. 

What is chickweed salve used for?

Chickweed salve may help soothe irritated skin and conditions including (but not limited to):

• eczema
• rashes and hives
• insect bites
• psoriasis
• poison ivy or poison oak
• acne
• minor burns and scrapes 
• sunburn
• razor burn
• general itching, redness and swelling

I broke out in hives recently (after pruning some overgrown elderberry bushes – they’re toxic) and our chickweed-calendula Skin Calm Balm provided immediate relief. The hives were gone within 10 minutes!

Drying Chickweed

This chickweed salve recipe calls for dried chickweed. Since added moisture (water) can cause mold and spoilage, it’s important to use 100% dry herbs in infused oil and salve – especially when using the slow cold oil infusion method like we do in this recipe. Remember, oil and water don’t mix! 

Thankfully, chickweed dries very quickly. If yours isn’t yet dry, simply lay out the fresh chickweed on an herb drying screen or in a woven basket in a warm, dry, well-ventilated location for several days. Or, pop it in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting until fully crispy dry. That’s what we do!

You can also buy certified organic dried chickweed here.

Chickweed Salve Recipe

Ingredients

• Dried chickweed – enough to loosely fill an 8 oz jar (see infusion notes below).
  
• 1 cup (8 ounces) carrier oil of choice. Popular carrier oil options for skincare include sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, and coconut oil. You can use one, or mix a couple! For the maximum healing benefits, we like to use certified organic cold-pressed oils. Learn more about the pros and cons of 11 carrier oils here.
  
• OR 1 cup (8 ounces) of already-infused chickweed oil
  
• 1/4 cup (1 ounce) beeswax pastilles or pellets. Beeswax is the most common type of natural wax used to make chickweed salve. It’s readily available, easy to work with, and creates a perfectly smooth, firm but spreadable salve. Beeswax is also antimicrobial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and highly moisturizing! See vegan wax options below.
  
• Optional: 1 Tbsp organic shea butter, which is highly moisturizing and rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants.
  
• Optional: a few drops of essential oils of choice. Technically, you can safely use up to 100 drops (1 tsp) maximum per cup of carrier oil, though that will result in a very, very strongly-scented salve. I suggest using ¼ to ½ that amount, or less. Lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus are all especially soothing for skin irritation (antibacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory). We like to use certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy.

Supplies Needed

• A double-boiler or DIY double boiler (e.g. a smaller pot or glass bowl that can rest inside a slightly larger pot). To prevent overheating or denaturing the therapeutic compounds, it’s important to use a double boiler rather than heating your chickweed salve ingredients directly on the stove.
  
• Small glass jars or salve tins, for storage. We often use 2-ounce amber glass jars or larger cobalt blue 4-ounce jars for personal use or gifts, and 2-ounce salve tins for easy shipping for our shop.

Yield: This recipe makes just over a cup of finished chickweed salve, or about 8 to 10 ounces (4 or 5 two-ounce containers). Note that I made a double batch in the images shown. There is a scalable, printable recipe at the end of this article.

Vegan wax options for chickweed salve

It’s possible to make chickweed salve with plant-based waxes like soy wax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax too. However, this may take a little experimentation since they have different textures and therefore may yield different results than beeswax. Soy is an easy 1-1 replacement for beeswax, while you’ll want to use slightly less carnauba or candelilla wax than beeswax since they’re more firm and prone to cracking (e.g. 1 part wax to 6 parts oil, rather than 1:4).

How to Make Chickweed Infused Oil

Before making the salve, first create chickweed infused oil. Fill a clean jar or other container about two-thirds full of dried chickweed (lightly packed). Next, pour over your oil of choice. Use enough to fully cover and submerge the chickweed. Again, this recipe calls for 1 cup of chickweed oil, so use at least a cup of oil or more. 

Add a lid and let the chickweed infuse in the oil in a cool dark location for at least 10 days, or up to several weeks. The longer it infuses, the more potent the oil will become! Once the time is up, strain the chickweed and reserve the oil. I like to set a small cheesecloth-lined strainer on top of a new clean jar or measuring cup, and pour the chickweed oil through. Then I can gather the chickweed in the cheesecloth to squeeze out any remaining oil. See photos below.

If you’d like to use a quick heated oil infusion method and/or use fresh (wet) chickweed instead of letting it passively steep, see this guide for further direction. 

Instructions to Make Chickweed Salve

1. Before starting, get your salve tins, glass jars, or other salve storage containers of choice ready and waiting.
   
   
2. Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.
   
   
3. Add enough water to the bottom portion of your double-boiler so that the top bowl or pot is in contact and resting in the water below.
   
   
4. Next, heat the double-boiler over a medium-low heat on the stovetop uncovered (without a lid). Remember, we want to avoid excessively heating the chickweed oil more than what is necessary! Just enough to melt the beeswax.
   
   
5. Monitor and routinely stir the mixture until the beeswax (and shea butter) completely melts. Stir to thoroughly combine, and then remove from the heat immediately thereafter.
   
   
6. Wait to add optional essential oils until after removing the liquid salve from the heat. They’re very volatile and therefore will dissipate quickly when exposed to high heat. Whisk to combine.
   
   
7. While it’s still hot, carefully pour the now-liquid chickweed salve into your chosen storage containers. If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.
   
   
8. Finally, allow the chickweed salve to fully cool and harden before adding lids.
   
   
9. Now your homemade chickweed salve is ready to use to soothe and heal your skin! Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve and apply as needed. A little goes a long way!

Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it’s medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. Discard if mold appears.

And that concludes this lesson on making homemade chickweed salve.

That was pretty easy, right? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel excited and empowered to go make chickweed salve of your own. I also hope it helps your skin feel wonderful! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this to be useful, please consider leaving a star rating or sharing this post. Thank you so much for tuning in today.

Don’t miss these related posts:

• Chickweed 101: How to Identify, Harvest, Dry and Use Stellaria Media
• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Hemp Oil and Salve Recipe
• How to Make and Use Homemade Lavender Oil, Calendula Oil, or Rosehip Infused Oil

Print

How to Make Homemade Chickweed Salve

Learn how to make soothing chickweed salve with this easy step-by-step tutorial. Chickweed salve can help calm skin irritation and conditions including rashes, eczema, minor burns, insect bites, poison ivy or oak, psoriasis, razor burn, and more!

Keyword chickweed balm, chickweed oil, chickweed salve

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 10 minutes minutes

Cooling Time 20 minutes minutes

Servings 10 ounces

Equipment

• A double-boiler, or make-shift double boiler (such as a glass pyrex bowl or stainless steel bowl perched on top of a saucepan with water below)
• Glass storage jars or salve tins

Ingredients

• 1 cup Chickweed-infused oil (dried chickweed previously soaked in sweet almond oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, or other carrier oil of choice – see infusion instructions in post)
• 4 tbsp Beeswax pastilles. 4 Tbsp = approximately 1 once if you're using shaved, block, or other forms of beeswax. (vegan option: replace with the same amount of organic soy wax or slightly less candelilla wax)
• 1 tbsp Shea butter (optional)
• 20-25 drops Essential oil of choice such as lavender, peppermint, or eucalyptus – all great choices for skincare. (Feel free to scale up or down, but the maximum concentration or safe dilution ratio = up to 96 drops EO max per 1 cup oil)

Instructions

• Have your chosen salve tins or small glass storage jars ready and waiting.
• Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.
• Heat the mixture on the stovetop over medium-low heat (without a lid) and only until the beeswax melts. Stir frequently.
• As soon as everything melts and is thoroughly combined, remove from heat.
• Add essential oils once removed from heat. They're highly volatile and prone to dissipating.
• While it is still hot, carefully pour the liquid salve into your chosen containers. (If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.)
• Set the full chickweed salve containers aside (lids off) and allow them to fully cool.
• The chickweed salve will harden as it cools, and then it is ready to use. Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve, and apply to your skin as needed. A little goes a long way!
• Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it's medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. 

The post How to Make Soothing Chickweed Salve Recipe and Infused Oil  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Luxurious lavender salve, calming calendula salve, radiant rosehip balm, cooling comfrey chickweed balm, luscious lip balms… After you read this guide and grasp the basics, the options of what you can create are truly endless! Bonus: making salve and balms is far easier than you likely imagine. You can find a printable version of the recipe at the end of this post.

What’s the difference between a salve and a balm?

Topical salves and balms are very similar overall. They’re both made by combining oil and some sort of wax and/or butter (beeswax being the most common) as a stiffener, resulting in a semi-solid but spreadable mixture to apply to your skin. Balms and salves are so similar, many herbalists and DIYers use the two terms and recipes fairly interchangeably (myself included). 

Technically, the main difference between a balm and a salve is that salves are slightly more soft, while balms are a bit more firm. Therefore, homemade balm recipes usually have a higher wax-to-oil ratio to achieve a firmer end product, while salve recipes have lighter wax in comparison. Balms are better at creating a natural, long-lasting barrier on the skin and locking in moisture, while spreadable salves are excellent for moisturizing skin or treating specific conditions.

The firmer texture means balms can come in a wider range of packaging, including lip balm tubes or cardboard push-up tubes, while soft salves are usually best stored in a tin, glass jar, or other wide shallow container you can dip into. And in case you’re curious, an ointment is simply an even softer, more oily version of a salve. 

Supplies Needed to Make Salve or Balms

• Herbal oil or plain oil of choice such as olive oil, sweet almond oil, or jojoba oil (explored more to follow)
• Beeswax or alternative natural wax
• Optional ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E oil, or essential oils 
• A double boiler, which allows the salve ingredients to heat and melt evenly without overheating or burning. Consider this modest double-boiler, this large one, or this top melting pot you can set over an existing pot – which also has a handy pour spout! You can also make a DIY double boiler by nestling a smaller pot or heat-safe bowl inside a slightly larger pot. 
• Measuring cups and/or digital kitchen scale
• Storage containers such as salve tins (1 ounce or 2 ounce tins), small glass jars (I love these 2 ounce amber jars or 4 ounce cobalt jars), lip balm tubes, or other suitable container.
• A small heat-safe pitcher, glass measuring cup with pour spout, or confectionery funnel for filling containers.

Understanding Salve and Balm Wax-to-Oil Ratios

• To make a salve or balm, simply heat 1 part beeswax with 3 to 5 parts natural oil of choice in a double-boiler until combined (see detailed instructions below). For example, ¼ cup of beeswax pastilles or shavings and about 1 cup of oil, or 1 cup of beeswax for every 3 to 5 cups of oil. 
  

• A 1:3 wax-to-oil ratio will create a firm balm, a 1:4 ratio is great for a standard salve, and a 1:5 wax-to-oil ratio creates a soft, spreadable salve. You could even use a 1:6 ratio, which will result in an extra soft, gooey salve. Any additional oil beyond that, the salve will fail to properly set up or stiffen.
  
  
• To measure by weight and ounces, use a 1:8 ratio such as 1 oz beeswax (1/4 cup) to 8 fluid ounces of oil for a standard salve. This is particularly helpful if you’re working with beeswax blocks or chunks.
  
  
• Scale the recipe up or down as needed while maintaining the recommended ratios. Note that other types of natural waxes require slightly different ratios than beeswax, explored in the “alternative wax” discussion to follow. 
  

• Keep in mind that adding additional ingredients like butters will also influence the texture. For example, we generally use a 1:4 ratio for salves but also add shea butter, which softens it up a bit. Lip balm recipes almost always include a butter component (like our lip balm recipe with cocoa butter). 

Basic Homemade Salve Recipe

• 1 cup (8 ounces) of oil, plain or herb-infused. Use ¾ cup for a firm balm (1:3 ratio) or up to 1.25 cups for a softer salve (1:5 ratio)
• ¼ cup (1 oz) beeswax pellets or pastilles
• Optional: 1 to 2 Tbsp shea butter, cocoa butter or mango butter
• Optional: Up to 1 tsp of essential oils (100 drops maximum) for a very strong-scented salve. I recommend using ¼ to ½ that amount or less. Lavender, roman chamomile, eucalyptus, rosemary, and peppermint are a few popular options. We like to use certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy.
• Optional: ½ tsp of vitamin E oil

This recipe makes just over 1 cup of finished salve – around 10 ounces, or five 2-ounce jars.

Next let’s explore the various types of oils, herbal oils, waxes, and optional ingredients used to make salve or balm. Or, feel free to skip straight to the salve-making instructions to make salve here.

Homemade Salve or Balm Ingredients 

Oil of choice

To make a salve or balm, you can use any high-quality natural oil you prefer – or a combination of two or more! Sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, and argan oil are some of my favorites. Olive oil, coconut oil, and avocado oil are also popular choices. Using coconut oil that is solid at room temperature will increase the overall firmness of your salve, while fractionated (liquid) coconut oil will behave like any other oil.  

Hop over to this article to explore 11 carrier oil options for skin care, including the unique benefits, characteristics, and comedogenic ratings of each one. Use these oils as-is or infused with herbs first (explained below). For the most healthy and healing salves, I suggest using cold-pressed, virgin, and organic oils whenever possible.

Beeswax 

Beeswax is the most common type of wax used to make salves or balms. It’s readily available, easy to work with (especially beeswax pastilles or pellets) and creates an ideal smooth salve or balm texture. Even better, studies show that beeswax is naturally antimicrobial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, and has the ability to both soothe and protect the skin while locking in moisture!

Alternative (vegan) wax alternatives for salve or balms

Beeswax aside, you can make salves or balms with other natural plant-based waxes too. For instance, soy wax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax are popular vegan wax options to make herbal salves or balms. However, this may take a little experimentation on your part since they have different textures and therefore may yield different results than beeswax. 

• Soy wax is an especially easy and direct swap for beeswax (1:1) in any salve recipe. I recommend using organic soy wax if possible, since conventional soy is notoriously pesticide-intensive. Also be sure to choose cosmetic-grade or food grade soy wax, not one designed for candle making or crafts only.
  
  
• Candelilla wax is more firm than beeswax, so use slightly less candelilla in your salve recipe (try 1 part candelilla wax to 5 or 6 parts oil). Note that products made with candelilla are more prone to cracking. It also has a very high melting point, so will likely be the last ingredient to melt in your pot.
  
  
• Carnauba wax is the firmest of them all, and even more prone to cracking. Try 1 part carnauba wax for every 6 to 8 parts oil to create a smooth, spreadable salve and a 1:5 ratio for a firmer balm. Carnauba makes the best salve or balm texture when combined with plant-based butters like shea or cocoa butter. 

Optional Ingredients

Herb-infused oil

Plain, high-quality carrier oils like sweet almond, olive or jojoba oil will nourish and moisturize skin on their own. However, you could also infuse dried herbs in oil before making salve to combine the healing and therapeutic benefits of both! I love incorporating homegrown goodies in our herbal salves.

Dried lavender, chamomile, rosemary, calendula, hemp, comfrey, yarrow, chickweed, rosehips or rose petals are a few excellent choices – and all bring their own unique properties to the herbal salve or balm! If you’re new to herbs and want to learn more about the uses and benefits of each one, I highly recommend this Beginner’s Guide to Medicinal Herbs by Rosemary Gladstar.

To make herb-infused oils, you can either passively steep dry herbs in oil for several weeks (the no-heat method) or lightly heat fresh or dried herbs in oil on the stovetop or in a crockpot for more immediate results. I prefer the slow no-heat method, which best preserves the medicinal compounds in the herbs but does take more patience and planning in advance. 

Learn how to make herbal oils here. After straining, you can use the herb-infused oil alone in a balm or salve recipe, or in addition to another plain carrier oil (as long as you maintain the recommended wax-to-oil ratio). 

Butters: Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, and Mango Butter

Plant-based butters can make salves and balms extra smooth, creamy, and nourishing! However, using too much can negatively influence the consistency of your finished product, such as making it too soft, grainy, or crack as it dries. Using the basic salve recipe I shared above, start with just a small amount of butter (about 1 or 2 tablespoons butter per cup of oil) and then experiment and adjust as needed. 

• Shea butter is highly moisturizing and rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and polyphenols. Studies confirm that shea butter has potent anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antioxidant properties. It also helps with skin barrier repair. Shea butter has a high melting point, so it may be the last to completely melt in your double-boiler.
  
  
• Cocoa butter is a rich moisturizer that replenishes the skin’s natural protective barrier, sealing in long-lasting moisture. Like shea butter, cocoa butter is loaded with fatty acids, minerals, polyphenols and antioxidants. When used in salves and balms, cocoa butter also tends to absorb into skin nicely rather than feeling greasy.
  
  
• Mango butter contains similar good fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals that shea and cocoa butter provide. Yet Mango butter is incredibly high in Vitamin C – a powerful antioxidant in skincare that helps to stimulate collagen production, and prevent or correct sun damage and premature aging. It’s also highly hydrating!

Vitamin E Oil

I often like to add vitamin E oil to my homemade salves and lip balm, just for a little extra oomph of goodness. With high levels of antioxidants and the ability to both protect skin and ameliorate a wide variety of skin issues, Vitamin E is a known powerhouse in natural skincare and cosmetics. Like essential oils, pure Vitamin E oil is highly concentrated. A little goes a long way! A salve or balm recipe with no more than 0.5% to 1% vitamin E oil is plenty (about ½ tsp of vitamin E oil per cup of oil). 

Essential Oils

Essential oils (EOs) can bring a lot to a homemade salve or balm. Obviously, essential oils smell nice! Most natural herb-infused oils don’t have much of an aroma, so adding a few drops of essential oils can really elevate the final product. 

Essential oils also offer unique therapeutic benefits when used topically. For instance, chamomile and lavender essential oils are excellent at calming nerves and skin issues, while refreshing peppermint and eucalyptus oils are uplifting, antibacterial, and can help clear sinuses. Learn more about each of their benefits here.

Essential oil precautions

It’s important to remember that essential oils are very concentrated and must be thoroughly diluted before they’re safe to use directly on skin. The recommended maximum concentration or dilution rate for most EOs is 2-3%, or about 1 tsp (100 drops) of essential oils per cup of regular oil for adults, and often even less for kiddos.

However, remember that’s the maximum recommendation – and would result in a very strongly scented salve or balm! We prefer more natural, mellow products and usually use a quarter of that, or less. 

Avoid using phytotoxic essential oils in topical salves and balms, including lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, lime, and bitter orange – they can cause skin to burn easily in the sun. (Sweet orange is not phytotoxic). Strong amounts of “hot” oils like cinnamon, lemongrass, clove, oregano, and cassia may be irritating for those with sensitive skin.

Also note that most essential oils are toxic to pets, with the exception of lavender, frankincense, chamomile, and rosemary.

Which essential oils are best for salve and balm?

Common essential oils used in homemade salves and balms include: lavender, sweet orange, roman chamomile, peppermint, tea tree, eucalyptus, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, jasmine, rose, lemongrass, clary sage, frankincense, ylang ylang, vanilla, and rosemary. Use one scent alone, or try mixing two or three. 

Tip: Balance sweet, woody, or floral scents with a more bright, herbaceous or citrusy scent, such as lavender + eucalyptus or rosemary, chamomile + lemongrass, sandalwood or cedarwood + peppermint, or jasmine + sweet orange. 

Working with essential oils and scenting salves is a craft of its own! It can take some experimentation to find the right amount and blend of oils to meet your desired results. Therefore, I suggest to start small: with a small batch of salve, and a light amount of just one or two types of essential oils. Gradually adjust as needed.

Instructions to Make a Homemade Salve or Balm

Last but not least, here is how to make a salve or balm in 6 easy steps. Have all your supplies clean and ready before starting. You’ll want to work fairly quick once the mixture melts!

1. Measure and/or weigh the oil, wax, and optional butter and add it to the top portion of a double boiler. Be sure to put water in the lower portion of the double boiler; enough so the bottom of the top pan is resting in water.
   
   
2. Heat the ingredients over medium-high heat until all of the ingredients are completely melted and combined. Stir occasionally. Do not cover the pot while heating; any condensation (water) can negatively impact the salve or balm.
   
   
3. Turn off the stove and remove from heat before adding essential oils and/or vitamin E oil. Essential oils are very volatile by nature, and thus will quickly dissipate on high heat.
   
   
4. While it’s still hot, carefully pour the liquid into storage containers of choice. If you have one handy, it can be easiest to transfer the melted mixture into a heat-safe pitcher, confectionery funnel, or glass measuring cup with pour spout (in batches if needed) and then use that to fill the containers.
   
   
5. If the mixture starts to harden before you’re finished pouring, simply return to heat to re-melt.
   
   
6. Once the balm or salve has completely cooled and hardened, add lids or caps and labels. This will take several hours or potentially overnight.
   

Clean Up Tips

For the easiest clean up, immediately wipe the pan out with a paper towel. If the wax residue starts to harden inside, lightly heat the pan to help it melt once again. Otherwise, it should all wash right out with hot soapy water. We also repurpose the already-hot water from the bottom of the double-boiler to wash the top portion.

And that’s a wrap!

I hope you enjoyed this lesson on how to make homemade salves and balms, and feel prepared and empowered to do so. Like I said, the options are truly endless once you get your feet wet and feel confident to get creative. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and leave a review once you give it a try! Thanks for tuning in today.

If you’re interested in straightforward guides to make specific salves and other natural products, check out these related tutorials:

• How to Make Calendula Salve for Healthy Skin
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• How to Make Cannabis Salve (including CBD)
• Homemade Chickweed Salve Recipe for Itching, Burns or Rashes
• DIY Natural Lip Balm Tutorial
• How to Make Medicinal Herbal Infused Oils, Two Ways
• DIY Bath Salts Recipe: Natural Beautiful Soaking Salts

Print

Simple Homemade Salve or Balm Recipe (Flexible and Customizable)

Learn how to make salve or balms with this simple flexible recipe, including oil and wax options, herb-infused oil, essential oils, butters and more. Once you know the basics, the options to be creative are endless!

Keyword balm recipe, homemade balm, homemade salve, how to make salve, salve recipe

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Equipment

• Double boiler pot
• Measuring cups and/or kitchen scale
• Storage containers (tins, glass jars, or lip balm tubes)
• Heat-safe pitcher, glass measuring cup with pour spout, or confectionery funnel

Ingredients

• 1 cup herbal oil or plan natural oil of choice e.g. jojoba oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, etc or homemade herb-infused oil
• 1/4 cup beeswax pastilles or pellets
• 1-2 Tbsp (optional) shea butter, cocoa butter, or mango butter
• 1 tsp (optional) essential oils up to 1 tsp or 100 drops maximum for safety, but a strongly scented salve). We use 1/4-1/2 tsp or less
• 1/2 tsp (optional) vitamin E oil

Instructions

• Measure and/or weigh the oil, wax, and optional butter and add it to the top portion of a double boiler. Be sure to put water in the lower portion of the double boiler; enough so the bottom of the top pan is resting in water.
• Heat the ingredients over medium-high heat until all of the ingredients are completely melted and combined. Stir occasionally. Do not cover the pot while heating; any condensation (water) can negatively impact the salve or balm.
• Remove from heat before adding essential oils and/or vitamin E oil.
• While it’s still hot, carefully pour the liquid into storage containers of choice. It may be easiest to transfer the melted mixture into a heat-safe pitcher, confectionery funnel, or glass measuring cup with pour spout (in batches if needed) and then use that to fill the containers.
• If the mixture starts to harden before you’re finished pouring, simply return to heat to re-melt.
• Once the balm or salve has completely cooled and hardened, add lids or caps and labels. This will take several hours or potentially overnight.

The post How to Make Salve or Balms 101: Simple Flexible Recipe appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Read along to learn how to grow chamomile. We’ll explore the various types of chamomile, its medicinal benefits, how to start from seed or seedlings, tips on how to harvest and dry chamomile, pest control, and plenty of ideas for how to use it! We love to use our homegrown chamomile to make tea, face oil, salves, and more. As a companion plant, chamomile attracts a wide variety of pollinators and beneficial insects to your garden too.

Types of Chamomile 

There are many different types of chamomile including Roman, German, Egyptian, and some lesser-known types like Yellow, Dyer’s, Moroccan, and Wild Chamomile. Within each classification, there may be several unique cultivars too! For example, some of our favorite German chamomile varieties include Zloty Lan, Bodegold, and this classic German Chamomile.

Roman, German and Egyptian chamomile are the most common and esteemed types of chamomile used for tea, natural healing remedies, and home gardens. They all offer similar soothing medicinal benefits (known to calm skin, inflammation, digestion and nerves) though they have a few notable differences too, explained below. 

What’s the difference between Roman and German chamomile?

Roman chamomile has a light, fresh, sweet apple-like aroma, while German chamomile smells more grassy, like very sweet straw. German chamomile flowers are known to have stronger, more potent aromatic essential oils than their Roman counterparts. While both are used in tea, Roman chamomile has the propensity to get bitter while German chamomile tastes herbaceous and sweet with little-to-no bitterness. 

When it comes to growing chamomile at home, it’s also important to know how the different types grow:

• Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile, also known as English chamomile) is a low-growing, sprawling perennial herb. Meaning it will continue to grow in your garden for several years, even after it dies back in the winter. Roman chamomile grows back each year via spreading rhizomes in the soil. Considered a short-lived perennial, many gardeners grow roman chamomile as an annual or for just a couple seasons before starting new plants.
  
  
• German chamomile (Matricaria Recutita) is an annual herb, so you’ll need to plant new seeds or seedlings each spring. However, German chamomile may self-seed and grow new plants on its own too! German chamomile plants grow much taller, bloom more profusely, and are less hardy than Roman chamomile.

Benefits of Chamomile

Chamomile is among the most popular and widely-used herbs in natural medicine throughout history and modern times – and for good reason! Its vast healing benefits have been confirmed by dozens of studies throughout the years. This comprehensive review explores chamomile’s ability to help treat everything from eczema and rashes to inflammation and indigestion. 

The specific flavonoids and terpenes found in chamomile flowers contribute to its medicinal powers. For instance, a natural blue oil called chamazulene is only found in chamomile, and is shown to have potent anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties. German chamomile contains more chamazulene, giving its pure essential oil that distinctive blue color.

Topical use

If you look closely, you’ll regularly find chamomile as a key ingredient in personal care products like face serums, lotions, shampoos, and more. That’s because it works absolute wonders for the skin! Chamomile is known to soothe redness, irritation, swelling, and itching associated with a variety of skin conditions, including but not limited to eczema, psoriasis, acne, allergies, minor wounds, rashes, and burns.

Internal use

Internally, chamomile exudes the same soothing anti-inflammatory benefits. Taken as tea, a tincture, or other supplement form, chamomile can calm the nervous system, reduce insomnia and anxiety, stimulate the immune system, ease inflammation and spasms in the digestive system, lessen symptoms of hay fever, and flush out toxins.

What kind of chamomile is best for tea?

Most tea connoisseurs would likely argue that German chamomile is the best type for tea: it has the highest levels of aromatic medicinal compounds and is also least likely to taste bitter. However, Roman and Egyptian chamomile are often used in tea too! All three offer the calming benefits and flavors quintessential to chamomile.

HOW TO GROW CHAMOMILE

To grow chamomile at home, you can either start from seed or pick up seedlings at your local nursery. We do a bit of both! To grow chamomile from seed, I typically like to start seeds indoors and then transplant seedlings out once the weather is warm enough. Chamomile takes awhile to germinate and the seedlings grow fairly slow, so starting indoors gives us a good head start on the growing season. However, you can directly sow chamomile seeds outdoors too!

Growing chamomile from seed

• Start chamomile seeds indoors 6 weeks before your last spring frost date. Direct-sow chamomile seeds outdoors after the last spring frost has passed, once the soil temperature reaches 55 to 60°F.
  
  
• Fill your seed-starting containers of choice with a light, fluffy, sterile seed starting mix.
  
  
• Lightly press the tiny chamomile seeds into the surface of the soil, or sprinkle a very light dusting of seedling soil over them (no more than ⅛”). Otherwise, do not bury the seeds.
  
  
• Chamomile seeds need light to germinate, so put your indoor seed starting trays under a grow light right away.
  
  
• They also sprout most readily in moderately warm soil, around 65-70°F. Depending on the temperature of your growing space, a seedling heat mat may come in handy.
  
  
• It is essential to keep the soil and seeds moist (not soggy) during germination. Cover your seedling trays with a clear humidity dome to help keep in moisture until they sprout, then remove the covers. Use a spray bottle to gently mist the top of the soil if it starts to dry out.
  
  
• Chamomile seeds germinate slowly (up to 14 days or longer), so be patient!
  
  
• To promote quick and healthy growth, thin chamomile seedlings down to just one or two plants per cell or container within a few weeks of sprouting. Crowded seedlings grow more slowly or may get stunted as they compete for water, root space, nutrients and airflow.
  
  
• See our favorite seed starting supplies here. For more details and tips on successfully starting seeds indoors, check out this step-by-step guide!

When to plant chamomile outside

Plant chamomile outside in the garden in early spring. Whether you grow chamomile from seed or buy nursery starts, wait to transplant seedlings outside until after the last spring frost has passed. If an unexpected late frost occurs, plan to protect the young tender seedlings to prevent damage – such as with a cloche or hoops and frost cover. Yet don’t wait too long! It’s important for chamomile to get established in the garden before hot weather arrives. Mature plants with deep roots are more tolerant of heat.

Chamomile growing requirements 

• Sun: Both German and Roman chamomile grow best in full sun in most regions, though Roman chamomile is more tolerant of partial shade. Both varieties will appreciate some afternoon shade in very hot climates or southern regions.
  
  
• Soil: Chamomile isn’t picky about soil quality. In fact, chamomile seems to grow best in poorer quality soil – so fertilizer shouldn’t be necessary. However, it’s important that the soil is well-draining since chamomile doesn’t like wet feet. Average potting soil, sandy soil amended with a little compost, or sandy loam soil works great. Amend clay soil with horticultural sand and/or potting soil to increase drainage.
  
  
• Water:  While chamomile plants are young, provide moderate water and maintain damp soil (not soggy) at all times. Yet as it matures, established chamomile plants become fairly drought-tolerant and prefer the soil to dry out ever-so-slightly between watering. Don’t let the soil get too dry during hot conditions though.
  
  
• Spacing and size: Space German chamomile plants about 6 to 8 inches apart, and Roman chamomile 8 to 12 inches. German chamomile grows 24 to 36 inches tall, though some varieties grow taller or shorter. German chamomile is also usually quite narrow and spindly, and often flopping over unless additional support is provided. In contrast, Roman chamomile plants grow full and dense but only a few inches tall (3 to 6 inches) and sprawl out across 12 inches or wider. 

How much chamomile to grow? 

Chamomile flowers are tiny, and even smaller once they’re dry! Therefore, it can take a good amount of dried flowers to make just one cup of tea, and significantly more to create infused oils, salves, or other homemade goodies you may have in mind. (That’s why chamomile products are often quite expensive!) 

A few chamomile plants will provide the average hobby gardener with a decent amount of chamomile to enjoy, though more plants will enable you to harvest and preserve plenty for storage, projects, and prolonged use. If you only have space for one or two chamomile plants, choose larger chamomile varieties that will provide bountiful flowers – like Zloty Lan.

Is chamomile frost hardy?

German chamomile is less hardy than Roman chamomile. Established German chamomile plants should be able to tolerate a light frost (ours do!) but likely would not survive a hard freeze. On the other hand, Roman chamomile also dies back during freezing winter conditions, but the roots and rhizomes will survive and regrow once the weather warms up again in spring. Provide mulch around the base of the plants to insulate and protect the roots from freezing conditions. Young plants of both varieties are more susceptible to frost damage than mature plants.

Chamomile pests and diseases

Chamomile is inflicted by very few pests or diseases. Instead, it attracts a number of good insects including bees, beneficial wasps, hover flies, and ladybugs! Aphids are the most common pest insect to attack chamomile, and are especially attracted to the tender new growth tips. Aphids cause damage by piercing and sucking on leaves and stems, taking away vital nutrients and moisture. Plus, you probably don’t want aphids all up in your chamomile tea!

Thankfully, aphids are fairly easy to control. First, try blasting them off with a firm stream of water from the hose (supporting the plant with your other hand). If that doesn’t work, use homemade organic soap spray to kill them on contact, and then wash it off afterwards to remove the soapy residue. I recommend doing this when the plant isn’t full of flowers you wish to harvest, such as before the plant starts blooming or right after a thorough harvest. Learn more about organic aphid control here, including our DIY soap spray recipe.

Sometimes our chamomile has some other really tiny bugs on it (smaller than aphids) but they usually “abandon ship” and leave the flowers on their own once harvested.

Growing chamomile in containers

To grow chamomile in a container, choose a pot, fabric grow bag, or other container that is at least 10 inches wide and deep. 12”x12” is ideal. Most importantly, ensure the pot has a drainage hole.  Fill the container with a well-draining potting soil or container soil. Place the pot in a sunny location. Chamomile grown in containers will likely need more frequent water than plants in the ground or raised beds, but still prefers moderately damp to slightly dry soil over constant moisture.

When and how to harvest chamomile

It’s easy to harvest chamomile: simply pluck the small daisy-like flowers off the top of their stems between your fingers. They snap right off with a fun little pop! A specialized picking rake makes harvesting chamomile a breeze, especially if you’re growing a large quantity.

Don’t be shy about harvesting chamomile. The more flowers you harvest, the more will grow! Chamomile will continue to bloom from spring through fall, and even during winter in mild frost-free climates. Though they’ve slowed down a bit, we’re still harvesting chamomile now (in February) from plants we put out last fall.

For the highest quality essential oil content and best flavor for tea, harvest chamomile flowers fairly young – soon after the flowers have fully opened, but before the centers become extra large and the petals droop backwards. Most herbalists prefer to harvest chamomile in the morning hours, before the sun and heat of the day has a chance to dissipate the delicate essential oils. 

How to dry and store chamomile after harvest

You can either dry chamomile flowers in a food dehydrator or let them passively air dry. To avoid adding unnecessary moisture and prolong drying time (or increase risk of mold), we do not wash our chamomile post-harvest.

To air dry chamomile, spread the flowers out in a single layer on a screen, in an airy basket, or on an herb drying rack in a warm, dry, arid location. Add a fan to increase air circulation if needed. If not well-spaced or if the air is too humid, the flowers may mold before they can fully dry. 

A food dehydrator is a great way to dry chamomile, especially for long-term storage or if you intend to make oil infusions, tinctures, or salves. (Using 100% dry flowers is crucial for oils or salves since any leftover moisture in the flowers can make the final product mold or spoil more easily). Yet it’s best to dry chamomile on a very low temperature setting to retain its beneficial and medicinal compounds. We set our dehydrator to 110°F or below (or use the lowest setting available) for 24 hours or longer. Warmer temperatures will make the flowers dry faster, though I don’t recommend drying chamomile in the oven. 

Once fully dry, store dried chamomile in an airtight container (e.g. glass container with a lid) in a cool, dry, dark location. There, it will retain its aroma, flavor, and beneficial properties for up to one year.

8 Ways to Use Homegrown Chamomile 

There are dozens of fun ways to use chamomile, both fresh and dried. Here are some ideas:

1. The edible flowers can be used fresh (or dried) to garnish drinks, salads, desserts, or added to ice cubes.
   
   
2. Use fresh or dried chamomile to make hot tea or sun tea! Learn how to safely make herbal sun tea with fresh herbs here. For hot tea, use about 1 tablespoon of dried chamomile per cup of hot water and allow it to steep for 5 to 8 minutes. When using fresh chamomile in tea, use two or three tablespoons per cup of water instead. I love to use this stainless steel infuser to make a single mug of tea, or this adorable loose-leaf glass teapot for tea for two.
   
   
3. Steep dry chamomile flowers in an oil of choice (e.g. olive oil, jojoba oil, or sweet almond oil) to create chamomile-infused oil. Then you can use the chamomile oil as a face, body, or massage oil. Or, as a culinary oil if you choose an edible carrier oil. Learn more about making herb-infused oils here, including carrier oil options.
   
   
4. Or, use chamomile-infused oil as an ingredient to create homemade skincare products like healing salves or balms, lip balm, body butter, soap, lotion and more.
   
   
5. Add dry chamomile flowers to sachets of potpourri or in stovetop potpourri.
   
   
6. Make a chamomile hydrosol to use as a naturally-scented room spray or linen spray.
   
   
7. Mix dried chamomile flowers in homemade bath salt blends. Check out our DIY natural bath salts recipe here!
   
   
8. For stronger internal use, create a chamomile tincture.

And that concludes this lesson on how to grow chamomile.

I hope this article provided you with everything you need to know to successfully grow chamomile at home. And, that you feel excited to do so now! Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Also please consider pinning or sharing this article if you found it useful. Enjoy your chamomile bounty!

You may also like:

• DIY Bath Salts Recipe: Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts
• All About Calendula: How to Grow, Harvest, Dry and Use Calendula Flowers
• 11 Best Carrier Oil Options for Skin Care, Salves and Herbal Infusions
• How to Safely Make Sun Tea with Fresh or Dry Herbs
• 10 Best Vegetarian and Vegan Supplements for Improved Health

The post Calming Chamomile: How to Grow, Harvest, Dry and Use Chamomile appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Common chickweed is popular among foragers, homesteaders, herbalists, and native communities alike. It is especially useful for natural skincare, known to soothe rashes, itching and irritation. Growing wild at our new property, we love to use it to make healing topical salve! (See the salve tutorial here)

What is chickweed?

Common chickweed (Stellaria media) is a tender, edible, annual herb that grows during cool wet seasons. Originally native to Europe, chickweed has been naturalized and now grows throughout much of the United States, Canada, and beyond. It has been used throughout history in herbal medicine and skincare. Its tiny flowers offer nectar to elfin butterflies and other beneficial insects. 

Other common names include birdweed, chickenwort, starwort and winterweed. Note that there are several related varieties of chickweed in the Stellaria genus. With “weed” in its name, it is often misunderstood or even demonized. If you Google the term chickweed, most of the results are about how to control or kill it – rather than make good use of it!

“The only difference between a flower and a weed is a judgment.” 

Wayne Dyer

Medicinal Use and Benefits of Chickweed

Chickweed offers numerous therapeutic benefits and nutrients. Historically, it has been used by Native Americans, herbalists, and other natural medicine practitioners to treat digestive issues, blood disorders, and respiratory ailments such as colds, coughs and sore throats. It is also used as an herbal remedy for wounds and skin health.

Chickweed is cooling, drying, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal. This makes it excellent at soothing irritated skin including rashes, minor burns, eczema, psoriasis, sunburn, razor burn, insect bites, poison oak/ivy, or general itching and inflammation. Topically, chickweed can be used directly on the skin as a poultice, infused in oil, or in a salve or balm. 

When used internally (e.g. via tincture, tea, or direct consumption), the saponins and natural lechinins found in chickweed can help to alleviate inflammation, reduce mucus and congestion, and improve metabolism and digestion. In large amounts, chickweed can act as a mild laxative, diuretic, and detoxifier. 

Chickweed also contains numerous vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, including beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc. It offers especially high levels of Vitamin C, making it an important source of nutrients to prevent scurvy for early sailors and miners, much like wild Miner’s Lettuce! 

Chickweed Identification and Characteristics

What does chickweed look like? How to identify chickweed

Common chickweed has long slender stems, dainty succulent ovate (pointed) leaves, and tiny white flowers. The flowers have 5 small petals, but they’re deeply lobed so it looks like 10 petals. Each plant sends out several long stems from a central cluster, forming a sparse or lanky rosette-shaped mound that grows 6 to 12 inches tall. 

There are 3 keys to properly identify chickweed and distinguish it from any lookalikes:

1. Chickweed has a single strip of hairs along one side of the stem (rather than hairs all over) – much like a mohawk. The location of the hair strip rotates between nodes or joints on the stem.
2. The succulent-but-tender stems have a stretchy central core or “bone” inside. If you gently pull a stem apart, you should be able to see the elastic inner fibers between the outer stem you just split. 
3. When snapped or crushed, chickweed does not emit a white milky sap. If if has white sap, you have the wrong plant!

What parts of chickweed are edible or medicinal?

Chickweed stems, leaves, and flowers are all edible and medicinal. I have not come across anything that says its roots are necessarily “bad” or toxic, though they’re typically not used or consumed. Keep in mind that consuming too much at once can cause an upset stomach for some people. 

What does chickweed taste like?

Chickweed tastes fresh, mild, grassy, and slightly sweet or floral. Some folks say the succulent leaves remind them of lettuce. Raw chickweed is often compared to the flavor of corn silks, while it’s likened to the flavor of spinach once cooked. 

How does chickweed spread? 

Chickweed is an annual plant that easily spreads by seed, popping back up year after year if allowed to grow unchecked. It can also grow new root shoots from the stems. Thus, it has become a common “weed” in lawns, parks, farms, and gardens. If you plan to grow chickweed at home, make sure it’s in a spot you don’t mind if it returns!

How to control chickweed organically

Hand-weeding is one organic way to control chickweed, and is most effective if done early when the plants are small (before going to seed). The whole plant and root should be pulled up and disposed of. Plant debris left sitting on the ground may re-root and reestablish itself.  

Thick mulch (e.g. several inches of wood chips, bark, or a layer of cardboard) will also suppress its growth. Finally, white vinegar can also be used as a natural herbicide to kill chickweed. The stronger the acetic acid content, the more effective the vinegar will be.

Foraging and Harvesting Chickweed

When and where does chickweed grow?

Common chickweed can be found growing throughout most of North America, Asia, Europe, and other parts of the world. Chickweed grows during the cool season in damp soil following rain, often in shade or partial shade under trees or along creek beds. It thrives when temperatures are between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Chickweed grows in the springtime in most places, though it can also grow during the fall. It fades and dies back in the heat of summer, but will grow right through winter in many damp frost-free climates – including foggy coastal areas.

When foraging in the wild, avoid harvesting from locations that are potentially contaminated – such as directly along roadsides, or adjacent to a commercial farm or golf course. It’s best to forage in natural areas away from frequent human activity, and rinse it well before consuming!

How to plant and grow chickweed at home

If it doesn’t naturally grow in your area to forage, you can plant chickweed in your garden. It grows easily from seed, and seed is readily available online. Seed can be directly sown or scattered outdoors or started inside and transplanted out as seedlings. 

Though you could plant it in a garden bed, I suggest growing chickweed in an underutilized shady area of the yard instead. Be sure to read the notes on spread and control below, because it is very likely to come back!

When and how to harvest chickweed

Harvesting chickweed is easy and straightforward. Harvest chickweed in springtime (or whenever it is growing in your area) when it is fresh and supple, before it starts to die back. For the best results, harvest chickweed in the morning or other cool time of day as it quickly wilts in the sun and after harvest. 

To harvest chickweed, simply grab a handful and cut several inches of the tender tops with scissors or small garden shears. You could also harvest the entire plant, though then it wouldn’t re-grow for future harvests. Chickweed doesn’t hold up long in the refrigerator, so plan to use it within a couple days or dry it right away.

How to Dry Chickweed

Drying chickweed is the best way to preserve it, and prepare it to make infused oil, balm or salve. You can dry chickweed either in a food dehydrator or passively air dry it. 

Using a food dehydrator ensures it will quickly and thoroughly dry, reducing risk of mold or spoilage in storage. In a dehydrator, evenly spread the plant material out on the dehydrator trays so air can circulate around it. Use a low temperature setting (95-105F) to retain its beneficial compounds and nutrients. 

To air dry chickweed, place it in a woven basket, on a screen, hung in a bunch, or on a specialized herb drying rack in a warm, dry location with good airflow. Place a fan nearby if needed to expedite drying. Let it sit until it’s completely dry, brittle and easily crumbles. Once dry, store it in an airtight container in a cool, dark location.

Ways to Use Chickweed

Combined with a carrier oil of choice, dried chickweed can be used to make a rich and soothing infused oil. The oil can then be used on its own (e.g. as massage or body oil) or as an ingredient to make homemade chickweed salve, balm, lip balm, and more. These topical creations are ideal to have on hand when rashes, burns, or other skin irritations arise. Learn more about making herb-infused oils here, including carrier oil options. Then pop over to this tutorial for our easy chickweed salve recipe.

Raw or dried chickweed can also be used to make tea or a concentrated herbal tincture. Dried and ground, it’s also used to make capsule supplements. Check with your doctor or naturopath for guidance on internal use.

Chickweed can be eaten raw or cooked, though its tender texture makes it most palatable when raw – such as added to salads, or even blended in a smoothie. Since it tends to be stringy, it’s usually chopped up before it’s eaten. Chickweed is great with scrambled eggs, raw or lightly sautéed. You can also toss a handful into soup or stew, but do so in the last few minutes to prevent overcooking.

Chickweed for Chickens

Birds also like to eat chickweed – including chickens! It’s is a great, nutrient-rich treat or forage fodder for backyard chicken flocks. While foraging, chickens should rip the chickweed into smaller pieces on their own (as they bite at it). However, I suggest chopping up any chickweed you harvest yourself before tossing it to the chickens. Otherwise, long stringy pieces of plant material may increase the risk of impacted crop.

Pretty neat little “weed”, isn’t it?

That sums up today’s lesson on common chickweed. I will be back soon with a follow-up post on how to use it to make infused oil, salve or balm! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and pin or share this post if you found it useful. Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy foraging!

You may also enjoy:

• How to Make Medicinal Herb Infused Oil: Two Ways
• 11 Best Carrier Oils for Skin Care, Salves and Infusions
• Miner’s Lettuce: How to Identify, Grow and Harvest Claytonia
• DIY Bath Salts Recipe: Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts
• Radiant Rose Hips: How to Harvest, Dry and Use Rosehips
• How to Safely Make Sun Tea With Fresh or Dry Herbs

The post Chickweed: How to Identify, Harvest, Dry and Use Stellaria Media appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

This guide will cover everything you need to know to make beautiful homemade bath salts using natural ingredients like epsom salt, sea salt, herbs, flowers, and organic essential oils. We’ll explore the best types of salt to use, the benefits they offer, and optional additions like colloidal oat powder. I’ll also cover frequently asked questions about bath salts – including usage, storage, tips for easy clean up, septic system concerns, and more.

Whether they’re for self-care or to share as special gifts, homemade bath salts are fun and easy to make. I’ll share our usual DIY bath salt recipe, but the process is very flexible. Feel free to get creative with your own blends! 

Why and how bath salt soaks work

Bath salts are usually made of epsom salts and sometimes other types of salt too, such as sea salt. When added to warm water, bath salts dissolve and release beneficial minerals (magnesium sulfate in the case of epsom salt) into your bath water. 

In theory, bath salt minerals absorb into your skin and help relax muscles, soothe skin irritation, and reduce inflammation as you soak. Warm bath salt soaks can also help improve circulation and stimulate detoxification in your body. Studies are still lacking on the exact benefits of bath salts, but soaking in warm salty water is incredibly relaxing and relieves stress nonetheless!  

Beyond minerals, bath salts may offer additional benefits depending on the ingredients in them – such as the medicinal powers of herbs, skin healing benefits of colloidal oatmeal, or soothing aromatherapy of essential oils.

What type of salt is best to make DIY bath salts?

You can make bath salts with only one type of salt (e.g. epsom salts alone), or combine several in your DIY bath salt recipe to reap the benefits of each one – plus add visual interest! Here are some of the most popular options:

• Epsom salt is the most common type of salt to use in bath salts, and potentially the most therapeutic too. However, epsom salt is technically not a real “salt” at all! Rather, epsom salt is a naturally occurring mineral compound made of magnesium and sulfate. Epsom salt soaks are used to promote quick healing and pain relief from a range of issues such as sprains, bruises, ingrown nails, stiff joints and muscles, or fibromyalgia. It’s also used to relieve constipation when taken internally.

• Sea Salts*. Sea salts are derived from seawater and are mostly composed of sodium chloride. Since they’re not refined or only minimally processed, sea salts retain numerous valuable minerals including magnesium, potassium, calcium, phosphorus, bromine, boron, zinc, iron, manganese, copper and silicon. Like epsom salts, sea salt baths can ease tension and stiffness while stimulating circulation and detoxification.

• Pink Himalayan Salt. As opposed to the sea, pink salt is a rock salt found high in the Himalayan mountains of South Asia. Though it’s about 98% sodium chloride, pink Himalayan salt also contains up to 84 other trace minerals and elements! It’s also really pretty, ideal for adding a pop of color and interest to your DIY bath salt recipe. 

• Cooking salts. You can also use common cooking salts in homemade bath salts, such as kosher salt, pickling salt or coarse rock salt. These salts are economical, readily available, and contain some trace minerals too. However, AVOID using iodized table salt to make bath salts. Lacking minerals, highly processed table salt doesn’t offer many health benefits. Instead, it adds trace amounts of unwanted iodine to your bath water. 

*Note: Depending on the origin, there are a number of unique sea salts to choose from, such as grey sea salt, Celtic sea salt, Dead Sea salt, and more. Each may offer slightly unique properties (e.g. Dead Sea salt is especially magnesium-rich) but in general, sea salts offer similar benefits in the bath. 

Fine, medium or coarse grind salts for bath salts

Salts come in various grain sizes or “grinds”: coarse, medium, fine, and extra fine. Finer grain salts dissolve fast and easy in your bath, while coarser salts take just a tad longer to dissolve. Yet coarse salts have more surface area and therefore absorb essential oils better, and look pretty cool to boot! All that considered, I generally like to make DIY bath salts with a mix of medium and coarse grind salts. 

Ingredients for Natural DIY Bath Salts 

Homemade bath salts can be as simple or complex as you wish to make them! At minimum, all you really need is salt to create a soothing soak. Yet if you’ve landed on this article, I imagine you’re looking for ideas to spice things up and create more interesting, fragrant, or healing homemade bath salt blends. 

Below is a list of ingredients that we use in our DIY bath salt recipe, though you can easily adjust or omit things as you see fit. I always try to source high-quality organic ingredients… especially for something I’ll be soaking my bits and parts in! This recipe makes about 5 cups of finished bath salts. Scale up or down as needed.

• 4 cups of salt total, such as epsom salt, sea salt, and/or pink Himalayan salt. I often use three kinds (e.g. 2 cups of epsom salt, 1 cup grey sea salt, and 1 cup pink).
  
  
• ½ cup to 1 cup dried herbs or flowers, such as dried rose petals, lavender, calendula, chamomile, rosemary, mint leaves, lemon verbena, or even dried citrus – just to name a few! Again, I like to mix in a couple different things. To prevent mold, it’s important to use 100% dry herbs or flowers for bath salt blends you intend to store for later use. We use a lot of homegrown herbs, though we also source organic herbs from Starwest Botanicals.
  
  
• ½ cup colloidal oat powder. Colloidal oatmeal is phenomenal for your skin! It’s proven to soothe irritation and itching, add softness, and lock in moisture – therefore alleviating skin conditions such as dermatitis, rashes, psoriasis, eczema and more. I also find it helps make bath salts less oily. I make my own colloidal oatmeal by grinding organic oats into a super fine powder in our Vitamix blender, but here is a great organic colloidal oat powder from a small black-owned business!
  
  
• 2 Tbsp Vitamin E oil. Vitamin E oil is a powerful antioxidant with moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties that improve skin health. Though they’re not quite as potent, feel free to substitute with olive oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, or your other favorite carrier oil of choice.
  
  
• ½ teaspoon (50 drops) up to 1 teaspoon (100 drops) of essential oils total (e.g. 30 drops lavender and 20 drops eucalyptus, one of my favorite combos). Sliding scale based on how strongly-scented you want your DIY bath salts. If you’re unsure, start with less – you can always add more later! I recommend using just one or two scents. See more information on essential oil options below.

The best essential oils for bath salts

Though not required, plant-based essential oils really enhance natural DIY bath salts and your overall bath experience! Certain scents are very effective at calming nerves or elevating your mood. It’s called aroma-therapy, after all! Beyond the benefits of aromatherapy, various herbs and essential oils offer unique healing properties. For example, lavender has antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties, and is known to ease anxiety and calm the mind. Similarly, eucalyptus and rosemary are antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and offer a very uplifting scent.

The most popular essential oils for DIY bath salts include: lavender, sweet orange, roman chamomile, tea tree, eucalyptus, bergamot, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, jasmine, rose, lemongrass, clary sage, frankincense, ylang ylang, vanilla, and rosemary. Use one scent alone, or try mixing two or three. 

Tip: Balance sweet, woody, or floral scents with a more bright, herbaceous or citrusy scent, such as lavender + eucalyptus or rosemary, chamomile + lemongrass, sandalwood or cedarwood + bergamot, or jasmine + sweet orange. Again, I recommend starting with just one, two, or maayyybe three scents combined.

Avoid using “hot” or potentially irritating essential oils like peppermint, wintergreen, cinnamon, clove, oregano, cassia, and thyme in the bath. 

What about baking soda?

Unlike some DIY bath salt recipes, I do not recommend adding baking soda to your bath salt blend unless you plan to use it immediately, or unless you’re using epsom salts only (no sea salt). The combination of baking soda and salt reacts to create carbon dioxide gas which will expand in packaging, and can even break glass jars in extreme circumstances! So, if you do want to include baking soda (which is great for softening skin) then simply add up to a half cup directly to your bathwater as it fills. 

Now, on to the easiest part… aside from soaking that is!

Instructions to Make DIY Bath Salts

1. First, add salts and colloidal oatmeal to a mixing bowl. Stir well to combine.
2. Next, drizzle over the vitamin E oil (or other oil) and then the dry herbs or flowers. Mix again.
3. Add your chosen essential oils and stir until everything is evenly combined.
4. Finally, package your homemade bath salts into aitight storage containers of choice, and enjoy your soak! Keep reading for tips on storing and using bath salts.

How to store bath salts

Store homemade bath salts in an airtight container. Sealable bags, a glass container with swing-top lid and gasket, or mason jars with tight-fitting lids work great. Store in a cool, dark, dry location. A good storage container should prevent moisture intrusion and clumping as well as keep in the aroma of the essential oils, helping your bath salts stay nice and fresh.

If you’re going to share your homemade bath salts with others, be sure to add a label that lists all of the ingredients! This way, the recipient can know what to expect and be aware of any potential allergens.

How much bath salts to add to the bathtub

Add anywhere from ¼ cup up to 2 cups of bath salts to a standard size bathtub. Unless I need intense relief, I tend to lean more on the light side since the ingredients we use are high quality (read: not exactly cheap). If I want a little extra oomph, I toss in an extra half cup of plain epsom salt in addition to my “special” DIY bath salts. 

Do not put bath salts in whirlpool tubs, hot tubs, or other tubs with jets unless the manufacturer specifies that’s okay.

How to add bath salts to your bath

There’s really no “wrong” way to add bath salts to a bath! However, if you’re using homemade bath salts made with essential oils and hope to bask in the aroma, I suggest waiting to add the bath salts until the tub is nearly full of warm water. Then stir the water around with your hand to help them dissolve. 

Essential oils are volatile (meaning they evaporate easily, especially when heated) so their aroma tends to dissipate more quickly than synthetic fragrances. If added to the bath too early, the smell can be quite faint by the time you’re ready to climb in! Close the bathroom door to keep the lovely scented steam in too.

How to make bath salts less messy

Some folks like to add bath salts directly to the bathwater. Soaking while rose petals swirl around you can certainly feel luxurious! On the other hand, some people may not like the feeling of floaties touching them as they soak. Or, want to deal with the clean up. For a mess-free, floaty-free bath salt experience, simply put your bath salts in a “tea bag” to steep! 

Add bath salts to a small reusable cotton drawstring bag, or fashion a steeping satchel out of organic cheesecloth and a hair tie or string. Hang or hold the teabag in the water near the downspout as the tub finishes filling. The salt will still dissolve and seep into the water, while the bag contains the herb and flower floaties. As an added bonus, the herbal tea bag doubles as an exfoliating wash cloth!

If you don’t steep your bath within a tea bag and they contain large flower or herb bits, you may want to use a mesh drain strainer to catch debris as the tub drains at the end of your bath.

How long to soak in bath salts (and how often)

To reap the maximum benefits from your bath salt experience, allow yourself to soak for 20 to 30 minutes. You can use bath salt soaks up to three times per week in times of need. 

It’s difficult to “overdo it” when it comes to bath salts, though too much could lead to dry skin in some sensitive individuals. Frequent bath salt soaks could also change vaginal pH levels, making a more hospitable environment for yeast infections or irritation. 

Should I rinse off after a bath salt soak?

That’s up to you! A strong bath salt soak (using 1 to 2 cups of bath salts) could potentially leave skin feeling dry later, depending on the other ingredients in your bath salt recipe. You may also want to rinse off if your bath had herbs and flowers floating around that are now stuck to your skin. Since I usually steep my herbal bath salts in a tea bag (and my tub is separate from my shower) I personally don’t feel the need to rinse off afterwards. 

Can bath salts expire?

Salts themselves (epsom salt and sea salt) do not expire. Similarly, homemade bath salts will not “go bad” but they’ll be the best quality if used within a year or two. The other ingredients added to DIY bath salts such as oils, colloidal oatmeal, or dried herbs may have a “best by” date or degrade in quality over time. 

Are bath salts bad for septic systems?

No, bath salts should not harm your septic system. (For the record, I used to permit septic systems for the county!) In general, highly salty water isn’t great for septic systems. For instance, most septic experts advise against discharging water softener backwash (brine) into septic tanks. However, the water from an occasional bath salt soak has a very dilute salt concentration in comparison. 

Plus, epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) aren’t actually a true “salt”, remember?  Epsom salts are completely harmless to septic systems. In fact, some septic professionals actually suggest adding epsom salt to septic systems. They claim that they help the system run more efficiently and encourage healthier plant growth in the drainage field. So, fear not!

If you plan to use bath salts routinely (e.g. once a week or more) and have a septic tank, use a 2:1 epsom salt to sea salt ratio. Or, use just epsom salts alone to make homemade bath salts.

Are bath salt soaks safe during pregnancy?

If you’re pregnant, talk with your doctor before using bath salts. While warm (not hot) baths are generally safe during pregnancy, it’s unclear if adding bath salts is recommended. Many sources say that natural bath salts made with epsom salts are okay to use while pregnant, and can provide much-needed relief from the discomforts that go hand-in-hand with pregnancy. Yet it’s suggested to exercise caution with essential oils while pregnant, and avoid them entirely during the first trimester. It’s also important to avoid bath salts that contain artificial fragrances, phthalates, or other chemicals.

And that’s how to make your own beautiful, natural DIY bath salts!

I hope you found this tutorial to be both insightful and inspiring. As you can see, making homemade bath salts is quite easy to do, flexible, and perfect for self-care and thoughtful gifts alike. Have fun getting creative and making your own! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments. Also please consider leaving a rating or review below. Happy soaking!

You may also enjoy:

• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• How to Make Herb Infused Oil: Two Ways
• 17 Wonderful Winter Garden Activities (Projects) To Do Indoors
• How to Make a DIY Beeswax Fall Leaf Garland
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• How to Safely Make Sun Tea with Fresh or Dry Herbs

Print

DIY Bath Salts Recipe ~ Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts

Learn how to make beautiful homemade bath salts using natural ingredients like epsom salt, sea salt, herbs, flowers, and organic essential oils. Perfect for self-care or a thoughtful DIY gift to share, bath salt soaks help alleviate stress, tension, sore muscles, inflammation, and more.

Ingredients

• 4 cups salts of choice, such as epsom salt, sea salt, and/or pink Himalayan salt. I often use three kinds (e.g. 2 cups of epsom salt, 1 cup grey sea salt, and 1 cup pink).
• 1/2 to 1 cup dried herbs or flowers, such as dried rose petals, lavender, calendula flowers, chamomile, rosemary, mint leaves, lemon verbena, or even dried citrus – just to name a few! (do not use fresh herbs or flowers as they may mold in storage)
• 1/2 cup colloidal oat powder
• 2 Tbsp Vitamin E oil (sub with olive oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, or other carrier oil of choice)
• 1/2 tsp (50 drops) up to 1 teaspoon (100 drops) of essential oils of choice – such as 30 drops lavender and 20 drops eucalyptus. Sliding scale based on how strong you want the scent. I recommend using just one or two scents.

Instructions

• First, add salts and colloidal oatmeal to a mixing bowl. Stir well to combine.
• Next, drizzle over the vitamin E oil (or other oil) and then the dry herbs or flowers. Mix again.
• Add your chosen essential oils and stir until everything is evenly combined.
• Finally, package your homemade bath salts into air tight storage containers of choice.
• Add 1/4 cup up to 2 cups of bath salts to warm water once the bathtub is nearly full and stir in to dissolve OR for a floaty-free soak, put the bath salts in a small reusable cotton "tea bag" or cheesecloth and steep them that way.

The post DIY Bath Salts Recipe: Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

From homemade treats and crafts to puzzles, organic bedding, and personal weather stations, there is something on the list for every budget or special someone in your life! To make browsing a breeze, I broke up this homestead gift guide into five sections:

1. Past Homestead Gift Favorites
2. Handmade Gifts and Crafts 
3. Garden Goods and Gadgets
4. Kitchen Supplies
5. Natural Health and Home

To shop this article, please use the links and buttons provided throughout. Some are affiliate links, meaning we gain a small commission from purchases made through those links, but at no additional cost to you. Using our links directly supports our small business, and is a very meaningful way to say thank you if you value the work we do here at Homestead and Chill. And for that, we are so incredibly grateful!

Past Homestead Gift Favorites

Since this is my fourth year publishing a holiday gift guide, and in an effort to keep things fresh and interesting, I tried to include mostly new ideas on this year’s list. YET I don’t want y’all to miss out on any awesome ideas, so here is a quick list of some tried-and-true favorite garden gifts from year’s past. Feel free to explore our gift guides from 2019, 2020, and 2021 to see more details about these – and more!

• Seed storage boxes. Photo boxes make the BEST seed storage and organization system ever! They make my little Type A heart sing. We’ve had these durable USA-made seed storage boxes for almost 5 years and they’re still in pristine condition.
  
  
• Hummingbird feeder. Attract hummingbirds and add flair to your garden with a cute hummingbird feeder, and then learn how to make DIY nectar here.
  
  
• Books. One of the best things about gardening and homesteading is that there is ALWAYS something new to learn. Browse a list of our top garden, cooking, preserving and homesteading books here. There are some fantastic resources on this list!
  
  
• Solar garden lights. Adding solar lights to your garden and outdoor space creates a cozy, magical ambiance. It also makes it more inviting to spend time in the garden once the sun goes down. We use a combination of flickering solar tiki torches, string fairy lights, pretty pathway lights, and overhead bistro lights to brighten our space.
  
  
• Birdies raised garden beds. If you’re in the market for raised garden beds (and aren’t up for building your own), I highly recommend Birdies metal raised bed kits. They come in a variety of sizes, colors, and shapes. My friend Kevin at Epic Gardening sells them here – discount code “deannacat3” will save 5% off!

Handmade Gifts & Crafts

Edible Gifts

Who doesn’t love homemade treats, especially around the holidays? Consider whipping up some tasty edible creations as gifts for family, friends, neighbors and coworkers. Package them up in cute sustainable wrapping like mason jars, small paper bags, fabric, or other containers tied with twine. Tuck in a sprig of rosemary, pine, or lavender to the package for a festive pop, or combine several homemade treats alongside a local bottle of wine, balsamic vinegar, chocolate or olives in a cute basket.

A few homemade edible gift ideas include: sweet and salty rosemary roasted mixed nuts, homemade chex mix, fruit preserves, sourdough crackers with herbs or cheese, sourdough pumpkin spice bread (or muffins), or cookies – like our soft and chewy ginger molasses sourdough cookies or sourdough chocolate chip cookies. You could even bake pumpkin-shaped sourdough bread to give to someone special! 

Elderberry Syrup

We love to share our homemade elderberry syrup – a delicious natural immune support that can help prevent illness as well relieve allergy and cold symptoms. It’s perfect for winter time, and a little goes a long way! Learn how to make your own here.

My friend Sarah owns TC Elderberry and sells dry DIY elderberry syrup kits, which are especially easy to make or gift, and would be perfect to pair with a bottle of local honey! Sarah also offers loose-leaf elderberry tea, tinctures, and bottles of fresh organic elderberry syrup. I personally love the “Kicked Up” version! Use code “deannacat” to save 15% at TC Elderberry here.

Homemade Body Care Products

Give the gift of self care! Homemade body care products are incredibly thoughtful and useful gifts, and are easier to make than you may think. Check out our step-by-step tutorials on how to make healing calendula salve, calming lavender salve, soothing cannabis salve, homemade lip balm, or herb-infused face or body oil. Bonus: just one batch can create dozens of gifts at once! 

Homemade soap, bath bombs, sugar body scrubs, or DIY bath salts are other fun self-care gift ideas. We also offer luxurious herb and flower-infused mineral bath salts in our shop. Use code “thankyou” to save $5 when you buy 3 bath salts or more!

Crafty DIY Gifts

I love crafting… just writing this makes me want to start a craft project! Pinterest is always full of fun ideas I want to try, like these handmade bird houses. If you like to sew, don’t miss our DIY heating pad or cold pack tutorial. Making fruit and vegetable stamped tea towels is a fun activity for the whole family. If you have backyard chickens, these blown egg ornaments are totally adorable. Or, learn how to make DIY beeswax wraps here (sustainable/reusable food wraps). 

Puzzles

So this isn’t exactly a craft, but similar! I’ve been SO into puzzles this year – especially ones with plants or gardens, birds, farms, cats, or other beautiful natural scenes. I enjoy the challenge, pretty photos, and opportunity to clear my mind and focus on one task. When I’m finished with them, I either pass them on to friends or followers on Instagram, or donate them to local senior centers. I’ve used this puzzle saver backing to keep and frame one of the best ones too!

Homestead and Chill Goods

I can’t share a gift guide without highlighting all the goodies we offer in our shop, right? And we’d be SO grateful if you considered supporting our small business during this holiday season! As a special thank you, please use code “SHOPSMALL” to enjoy 10% off – now through Monday Nov 28th at midnight. To give back, we also donate a portion of all proceeds to rotating wildlife, social justice, and environmental nonprofits each year.

One of our most popular items is our organic sourdough starter. It’s a little piece of our personal starter, comes dehydrated (perfect for gifting!) and with easy instructions to reactivate it  – success guaranteed! 

Using homegrown, fair-trade and high-quality organic ingredients, we also make a wide variety of natural body care products, including healing salves and lip balms, luxurious herb and mineral bath salts, natural insect repellent, soothing aftershave or beard balm, kid-safe “breathe easy” balm, and more. 

New this season: I rounded up some of my favorite photos and created a beautiful 8-pack of pollinator greeting cards (printed on recycled paper) as well as a 2023 nature wall calendar. Last but not least, we also offer Homestead and Chill t-shirts and canvas tote bags printed on organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, and other sustainable materials! 

Garden Goods & Gadgets

Seeds or Plants

While it may not be the best idea to pick out specific varieties for someone else, I know us gardeners always get excited about seeds – and plant shopping! So perhaps consider giving the special gardener in your life a gift certificate to their favorite local nursery or seed supplier so they can pick out exactly what they need. Tuck the gift card inside a garden hod or harvest basket (I always find the best ones at thrift stores!) and a new pair of garden gloves to round out the gift.

For seeds, I highly recommend High Mowing Organic Seeds. They’re an awesome small business based out of Vermont, and offer a stellar selection of certified organic veggie, flower and herb seeds. 95% of what we grow in our garden comes from High Mowing!

Personal Weather Station

Monitoring the weather is crucial for us gardeners, and can be really fun too! We’ve found that our local weather forecasts always seem several degrees off from what we truly experience in our garden, so this year we invested in a personal weather station! Now we can monitor the real-time temperature, humidity, wind, rain, UV, and pressure in our backyard microclimate. This is especially key when it comes to frost and deciding when to act and cover our most tender plants. 

We just recently got our weather station so we admittedly haven’t had a lot of time to test it out yet. But so far, so good! I chose it based on the reputable brand (a small business!), rave reviews, features, versatile mounting options, and range. Set-up was a breeze, and I’ve heard from dozens of folks in my Instagram community who say they’ve had the same one for years and love it!

Merry People Boots

Whether we’re out here harvesting, weeding, or just kicking back in the garden, you can pretty much always catch us in our Merry People boots. They’ve been our favorite garden boots since we first discovered them a few years ago; I wear mine pretty much every day. Merry People boots are comfortable, sturdy, vegan, waterproof, unisex, and come in a TON of fun color combinations! They offer tall boots and short clogs too. I’m also very happy to support a great small company that was founded by a woman of color. 

Wildlife Trail Camera

Here’s another new fun toy we got this year: a wildlife camera! After a lot of research (and trying a not-so-great trail cam first) we settled on a Bushnell trail cam. Admittedly, I have mostly used it to spy on the baby quail we had on our property this summer (squee!) but it’s a great tool to have around to identify garden visitors – especially those that come out at night. When you’re experiencing damage to your crops, it’s essential to identify the culprit before deciding how to best proceed! I’ve also spotted coyotes and raccoons on ours.

LED Grow Light Shelf

Here’s a gift idea for the serious seed-starter. We’ve been growing food from seed for many, many years now, but our seedlings have NEVER looked so healthy or grown as quickly as they have since we got this LED grow light shelf from Gardener’s Supply. In fact, we now have two! We’ve even decided we probably won’t add a greenhouse to our new homestead. The light shelves simply work too well, and raising seedlings indoors (or in this case, in our barn/shed) is actually easier than fighting the temperature swings that go hand-in-hand with greenhouses. 

Gardener’s Supply is currently offering free shipping on orders over $150 with code “HOLIDAYS22”

A Drone

Okay, it may be a bit of a stretch to call this a “garden tool”… but I love capturing our garden space with our new drone! It’s going to be so fun to document changes and progress on the property over time. When I was shopping and comparing drones, I chose the DJI Mini 3 Pro for several reasons. It is lightweight and compact, easy to fly, has absolutely stellar photo and video quality, and the biggest selling point (for me): it’s ability to shoot in portrait mode, with an easy toggle back to landscape too. Almost all other drones only shoot in landscape, which isn’t ideal for sharing on social media like I do so much!

Kitchen Supplies

Ceramic egg holder 

Anyone can enjoy this stylish little egg holder, but it’s an especially perfect gift for the backyard chicken keeper in your life. We keep ours out on the counter to display our girls’ beautiful (unwashed) eggs, though it works just fine on a refrigerator shelf too! (If you’re curious about storing fresh eggs at room temperature, please see this article.)

Sourdough Baking Kit 

Here is a super cute homestead gift idea: a sourdough baking kit, complete with a bread proofing basket (aka, a banneton) and a few smaller supplies tucked inside like a dough scraper, bread lame, and sourdough starter. A cast iron combo cooker (what we bake our sourdough bread in, like an upside down dutch oven) would be another fun addition! 

Our organic sourdough starter comes dehydrated (but alive), is easily reactivated with just a little flour and water, but doesn’t have to be activated for up to a year – so there is no pressure for the recipient to do anything with it right away.

Baking fresh sourdough bread is incredibly fun, rewarding, reduces wasteful packaging, is more nutritious and easier to digest than regular bread. Plus, it’s not difficult to do! All you need is a few basic supplies, a sourdough starter culture, and the desire to learn. We’re here to help with plenty of start-to-finish tutorials and recipes.

Loose Leaf Tea Party

Does someone in your life love to drink tea? Consider putting together a cute little tea party set! I adore our loose-leaf glass teapot for two, or use this high-quality stainless infuser for a single mug. Then pop over to Farmhouse Tea to browse their absolutely delectable tea blends like Coastal Cranberry Spice, Cherry Country Chai, Apple Cider Fixin’s, Prudent Pumpkin Spice, Gingerbread Spice, and Cottage Peach Roobis… just to name a few! Some contain caffeine, though most are non-caffeinated.

Farmhouse Teas is a small family-run business from Oregon, where they source all of their ingredients locally and/or organic. Their “trial size” packs are a wonderful budget-friendly gift, and still contain up to 12 cups of tea! They also offer larger bags of loose-leaf tea, bundles with 3 small bags of choice, holiday gift sets, and more. Save 20% off on Farmhouse Teas from Thanksgiving through Cyber Monday with code “FARMHOUSE20”.

Zoodler

This may seem like a silly contraption, but we are stoked to have a zoodler come zucchini season! We use it all summer long. Zoodles are a fun and different way to enjoy your zucchini bounty, and an awesome low-carb pasta substitute. They’re especially delicious with homemade tomato sauce or pesto, fresh tomatoes, and even some black beans or chickpeas added for protein. Zucchini aside, you can use it to spiralize a wide variety of veggies!

Dehydrator 

We use our food dehydrators almost non-stop year-round, drying and preserving everything from herbs and flowers to fruits and veggies. There are a lot of food dehydrators out there, but Excalibur machines are top-notch – and far superior to others we’ve used in the past! They’re efficient, fairly quiet, made in the USA, all BPA-free, and some models are available with convenient timers. 

I personally love the large capacity of the 9-tray models to fit all our goodies. When we had an old 4-tray dehydrator (different brand), we often found ourselves having to dry things in batches because it filled up too quickly. The precise temperature control is also fabulous, especially if you’re into raw foods and preserving the maximum nutrients and medicinal properties possible. 

Excalibur has a stellar Black Friday deal going on too: save 30% off site wide with code “BFCM22“!

Natural Health and Home

Organic Linens

I hate to be doom-and-gloom here… but did you know that conventional cotton is one of the most pesticide intensive crops to grow? On the other hand, choosing organic cotton bedding is better for your health, the environment, wildlife, and farmworkers alike!

We have organic cotton sheets from Boll & Branch and Avocado – they’re both wonderful! I especially love that Boll & Branch is certified fair trade. They also offer organic cotton bath towels, duvet covers, blankets, pillows and more. You could even take it a step further and invest in a non-toxic organic mattress from Avocado. We love ours!

Boll & Branch is currently having a 25% off sale with code “CYBER25”, and Avocado is offering 10% off site wide.

Air Purifier

Between dust, dander, allergens, mold, cleaning products, wood smoke and other impurities, did you know the air inside your home is often far more “polluted” than outside? And, that’s where we usually spend most of our time… breathing all that in!

Several years ago we invested in an air purifier with a HEPA filter during summer wildfires. The smoke was almost unbearable. Then I realized just how much the air purifier was helping my allergies too, so we ended up getting another – one for the bedroom, and one for the living room. Now I sleep with one on every night and feel much better about our indoor air quality!

Beeswax Candles

Speaking of indoor air quality… Consider gifting some clean-burning beeswax candles this holiday season! We quit burning traditional petroleum based candles years ago. I also avoid scented candles, even ones made from natural waxes. Those types of candles expose you to harmful chemicals, including carcinogens and endocrine disruptors. (Learn more here)

Instead, we love to burn 100% pure beeswax candles during cozy or festive occasions. The natural light honey aroma is scented enough, and if I want more aroma, I whip up a natural simmer pot instead! Tip: keep the wick trimmed short to prevent beeswax candles from smoking. (Plus I turn on the air purifier to clear the smoke once I blow them out.) 

I really like these beeswax pillars (which come in a variety of sizes) and these beeswax votives – both from small businesses and made from USA beeswax!

Natural Soaps 

This year I discovered a fantastic new natural deodorant company, Humble! My armpits have never been happier. (I especially love their sensitive skin formulas and cardboard packaging.) The small company has really stellar ethics when it comes to the environment, diversity and charitable giving. They also make cold-process natural soaps that are free of artificial fragrance, sodium lauryl sulfate or parabens. The soaps are sustainably packaged, cruelty-free, and come as single bars or mixed sets – which would make great gifts or stocking stuffers!

Body Massage Hook

Between working in the garden and the general stress of life, my shoulders are always riddled with knots. Aaron is a sweetheart and rubs my shoulders often, but sometimes his hands need a break too. That’s when this body hook massager becomes my BFF. I can reach every spot! It provides amazing relief, especially paired with CBD. You can use it all over your body, such as for acupressure on the bottom your feet. (Check out the photos in the listing.)

NuVita CBD

Last but not least, NuVita. If you’ve been around, you’ve probably heard me rave about NuVita CBD more than a time or two. This small business has truly changed my life for the better! I take their full spectrum CBD every day for anxiety, stress, muscle aches and joint pain (which comes in an oil tincture, softgels or gummies) along with their CBN tincture every night for the best sleep ever.

NuVita also offers CBD and CBN topical rollers, which are absolutely amazing for localized pain, inflammation relief, and aromatherapy – especially after a long day working in the garden!

Use code “deannacat” to save 10% on NuVita products, any time. If you like them as much I do, you can also sign up for autoship for an additional 15% off – for 25% savings total!

And that wraps up this year’s homestead gift guide.

Well friends, I hope you found some new and fun homestead gift ideas after browsing this list! We hope you have a wonderful winter holiday season ahead. I’m always extra-reflective this time of year, because exactly four years ago this week I sat down to start building this website… and what a wild ride it’s been ever since! We truly can’t thank you enough for being a part of our community and journey. Homestead and Chill wouldn’t be the same without you! 

The post Homestead Gift Guide 2022: DIY, Home & Garden Gift Ideas appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

There are two ways to make herb infused oils: using a quick heat method, or a slow cold infusion. Slow infusions are usually considered superior (most therapeutic) since they don’t expose the herbs or oil to heat – which can destroy or degrade the benefits of both. We’ll explore both methods today.

What is an herb oil infusion?

As the name implies, herb infused oils are created by steeping herbs in oil, such as olive oil, coconut oil, or sweet almond oil. As they infuse, beneficial compounds, fatty acids, and natural essential oils are drawn out of the herbs and into the surrounding oil. Later, the plant material is strained – leaving behind a medicinal herb oil. You can use any combination of herbs and carrier oils of choice (explored more to follow). I recommend using dry herbs for the best results.

Depending on the type of oil and herbs used, some herbal oils can be used in edible culinary creations – such as a salad dressing or marinade. Topically, herb infused oils can be used directly on skin or as a key ingredient to make salves, lip balm, soap, and other natural body care products. See a full list of ways to use your homemade herb infused oil at the end of this post!

What types of herbs to use for oil infusions?

Though we’re calling them “herbal oils” today, you can infuse all sorts of things in oil including flowers, berries, leaves, roots, stems, spices or fruit. For instance, we love making homemade rosehip infused oil – which is technically a fruit.

Use what suits your needs, and what you have available to you! For instance, calendula-infused oil can work wonders for skin conditions like rashes, dermatitis, or eczema, while comfrey is traditionally used for healing wounds. We usually rely on homegrown herbs, but occasionally buy organic dry herbs for infusions too. Starwest Botanicals offers a great selection of high-quality, ethically-sourced bulk herbs, flowers, spices and more.

Before you start, it’s important to become familiar with the properties, benefits, and possible side effects of the herbs you’re using – so do your research! I highly recommend Rosemary Gladstar’s book: A Beginner’s Guide to Medicinal Herbs, or her Herbal Recipes book.

Herbs commonly used in herb oil infusions:

• Basil
• Calendula
• Chamomile
• Chickweed
• Citrus peels
• Comfrey
• Dandelion 
• Echinacea
• Elderberry/elderflower
• Hibiscus flowers
• Lavender
• Lemon Balm
• Lemon Verbena
• Nettles
• Marshmallow Root
• Mint 
• Pine 
• Plantain leaves
• Red clover
• Red raspberry leaf
• Rose hips
• Rose petals
• Rosemary
• Sage
• St. John’s wort
• Thyme
• Yarrow
• Violet

Carrier oil options to make medicinal infusions

There are dozens of different carrier oil options to choose from. I often use more than one type of oil in the same herbal infusion to reap the benefits and balance of both!

Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, and argan oil are popular to make natural skin and body care products (and some of my personal favorites). Those oils are all highly healing and moisturizing in their own right, and even more so once infused with medicinal herbs! Edible oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, or hemp seed oil are great choices to make herb infused oils intended for culinary use. 

Pop over to this article to learn more: 11 Best Carrier Oils for Skin Care, Salves and Infusions. It explores the pros, potential cons, comedogenic ratings, extraction methods, and other characteristics of 11 popular carrier oil options so you can pick the best oil for your skin type and needs. I personally prefer to use certified organic cold-pressed oils.

Using fresh vs dry herbs for oil infusions

It’s best to use dry herbs to create the most foolproof, safe, and long-lasting herbal oil infusions in most cases. Why? The high moisture content (water) found in fresh herbs can cause the oil to spoil and grow mold. Oil and water don’t mix, you know… Though some herbalists take their chances with fresh herbs, I’d rather play it safe than sorry. After all the time and effort of growing, harvesting, and infusing your herbs, moldy oil would be devastating! 

Since dry herbs are more highly concentrated (and more can fit inside a container), using dry herbs can also yield a more potent infusion. 

It’s okay to use fresh herbs in an infusion that you’ll use up fairly quickly, such as a small batch of basil or rosemary infused olive oil that you plan to use within a few weeks. It’s also less risky to use fresh herbs when using the quick heat method to make herb-infused oil, since some of the moisture can evaporate off while heating. However, I still recommend allowing the herbs to air dry for a day or two – or at least wilt and partially dry first.

How to dry herbs

You can dry herbs in a food dehydrator, hang them up to dry, or spread them on a screened herb-drying rack. Allow them to dry until they’re completely brittle and crisp, where no evident moisture or suppleness remains.

To air-dry herbs, it’s important to do so in a warm, dry location with good airflow. Using a fan nearby will help. Note that it may not be possible to air dry herbs in all climates or conditions. If it’s too cool or humid, the herbs may mold before they’re completely dry.

When using a food dehydrator, set it to the lowest temperature possible so the herbs retain their maximum beneficial properties. We almost exclusively dry herbs and flowers in our Excalibur food dehydrator. I love the large capacity, even and efficient drying, and precise temperature controls – including the “living foods setting” we use for medicinal herbs.

Should I wash herbs before drying them?

It depends. Some gardeners and herbalists avoid washing herbs before drying because the added moisture may prevent them from drying properly and potentially lead to mold. This is especially a concern when air-drying herbs, but shouldn’t be an issue when using a food dehydrator. If herbs are particularly dirty, the extra step of washing them may be preferred. Shake them out well (or even toss them in a salad spinner) to remove excess water after washing. I personally only wash herbs that I plan to use in cooking. 

How to an Make Herbal Oil Infusion

Supplies needed

• Herbs. Dried herbs are best for a slow cold infusion. Fresh herbs, wilted herbs, or dry herbs can be used with the quick heat method. 
• A carrier oil of choice, such as jojoba oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, or other.
• A glass container with a tight-fitting lid. Use something as small as a half-pint mason jar, or as large as a half-gallon jar! The size simply depends on how much herb infused oil you intend to make.
• Fine-mesh colander, reusable nut milk bag and/or cheesecloth for straining. 
• Storage containers for finished oil, such as glass jars or amber dropper bottles.
• Optional: a slow-cooker or double boiler and probe thermometer (only if you intend to use the quick heat method)

Option 1: Slow Cold Infusion 

The first option is the easiest, but does require a little patience: simply allow dry herbs to soak in oil at room temperature for several weeks. Known as slow or cold infusion, this method relies on a passive process to gently extract beneficial compounds from the herbs. Since it’s not exposed to heat, the maximum therapeutic properties of both the oil and herbs are retained. The herbs should soak in oil for a minimum of 2 or 3 weeks, up to 4 to 6 weeks for the most medicinal oil possible. 

Directions

1. Start by filling a clean glass container at least two-thirds full with dry herbs. Feel free to fill the container even more to create a stronger infusion. Yes, you can mix several different types of herbs together if you’d like!
   
   
2. Pour oil over the dry herbs until they’re completely covered by at least an inch or two of oil (though they may float, that’s okay). If you wish to get more technical and measure, aim for an herb to oil ratio of about 1 part dry plant material by weight to 5 parts oil by volume. For example, 1 ounce of herbs to 5 fluid ounces of oil.
   
   
3. Add a lid and set the jar in a dark place to infuse for several weeks. Some herbalists like to use the “solar infusion” method, steeping the herbs and oil in a sunny window to garner luminary warmth and energy. Yet others say that sunlight can reduce the potency of herbs or make oil go rancid more quickly. So, it’s a bit of a controversial topic! We’ve done both methods and never had oil spoil on us.
   
   
4. Though not necessary, you can give the jar of oil a gentle shake or tilt from time to time. This is especially helpful during the first few days to rotate/submerge any “floaters” on top.
   
   
5. Occasionally, condensation may develop near the top portion of the jar. If you notice this, simply open the jar and wipe it away with a clean paper towel.
   

6. When the time is up, strain the herbs from the oil. I place a nut milk bag or layer of cheesecloth inside of a fine colander perched on top of a bowl, and then pour the oil through both. After it sits to drain a bit, I wring out any leftover oil from the herbs by squeezing the nut milk bag or cloth. Compost the leftover herbs.
   
   
7. Transfer the finished herb infused oil into a clean storage container with a lid, and store it in a cool dark place. I like to use amber dropper bottles for face and body oil, storing the excess in a larger jar in the fridge for refills. The dark glass protects the medicinal herb oil from light degradation, so I can safely keep it out on my bathroom counter too. (See shelf life information below.)
   

8. Now go enjoy your creation! I’ve included a list of ways to use medicinal herb oils at the end of this post. 

Option 2: Quick Heat Method

The quick heat method is a simple, fast way to create herb infused oils without waiting for them to passively steep. Though we’ll be lightly heating the herbs and oil, it’s important to keep everything at 110°F or below to avoid degrading the quality of the oil and herbs. It’s okay to use fresh, wilted, or dry herbs with this method.

Directions

1. Start by chopping up the herbs you wish to infuse. Smaller pieces = more surface area = stronger infusion.
   
   
2. Add the herbs to a slow cooker (crock pot) or the top portion of a double boiler on the stove. If you don’t have a double boiler, create your own by nesting a glass bowl or smaller pot inside of a larger pot of water below. The top/inner pot should touch the water, but not rest all the way on the bottom of the lower pot.
   
   
3. Pour over enough oil to submerge and cover the herbs by at least an inch or two. It isn’t necessary to measure, but you can if you wish. For fresh herbs, aim for an herb-to-oil ratio of 1 part fresh herbs by weight to 3 parts oil by volume (e.g. 1 ounce fresh herbs to 3 fluid ounces oil). For dry herbs, use 1 part dry plant material to to 5 parts oil by volume (e.g. 1 ounce dried herbs to 5 fluid ounces oil). For wilted herbs, use a ratio of 1:4.
   
   
4. Gently heat the oil, but do not boil it. Between 95 and 110°F is ideal. Check the temperature with a probe thermometer and adjust the heat if needed. In a crockpot, use the lowest temperature or “keep warm” setting.
   
   
5. Allow the oil and herbs to simmer together for at least 30 minutes, up to several hours for a more potent infusion. (Some medicinal herb oil recipes call for 12 to 24 hours in a slow cooker). Important: To prevent spoilage, leave the lid off so moisture from the fresh herbs can evaporate and escape. The more fresh the herbs, the longer I suggest lightly heating to ensure water content is reduced.
   
   
6. Finally, strain and store the oil as explained in the “slow infusion method” section above.

How long does herb infused oil last?

The shelf life of herbal oils varies depending on the type of carrier oil used, if the herbs were adequately dried before steeping, and how the oil is stored. Most herb infused oils should stay good for about a year when made with dry herbs and stored sealed in a cool, dark place.

Some oils have a naturally shorter shelf life than others (such as grape seed and sweet almond oil), while jojoba oil can stay good for 5 years or more! Furthermore, refrigeration may be recommended for some oils. Refer to the oil manufacturer’s instructions, and see the expected shelf life of various carrier oils here.

If the herbal oil is used to make salve, lip balm, lotion, soap, or other goodies, the shelf life is extended since other preservatives are often used in those items. Beeswax is an excellent natural preservative for example! 

Visible mold and/or sour, putrid, or otherwise “off” odors are signs that oil has gone bad or rancid and should be discarded. However, cloudiness is not usually a sign of spoilage (unless accompanied by a bad smell) and can be common in herb infused oils. 

Ways to use herb infused oil

Here are some general ideas and ways to use medicinal herbal oils, but use your noggin’! Be sure the use is appropriate and safe for the type of carrier oil and herbs you used. 

• As body oil or massage oil 
• Facial moisturizer – just a few drops will do!
• Work a few drops through damp hair to soften hair and smooth split ends.
• As an ingredient in other homemade body care products like salve, soap, cream, lotion, lip balm, ointment, or other natural skincare products. Check out our lip balm and salve recipes here! For more ideas, I highly recommend this organic body care recipe book. It’s loaded with awesome recipes!
• If you used an edible carrier oil, you can use your herbal oil as a tasty marinade, salad dressing or in other culinary creations. 
• As part of your oil cleansing method
• As spot treatment directly on scars, stretch marks, varicose veins, or other areas of concern.
• To soothe rashes, bug bites eczema, psoriasis, scrapes, burns, or other skin irritations
• On cracked heels, cuticles, feet, dry elbows, or other rough patches of skin. 
• On chapped or cracked lips, or around your nose when it’s chaffed. 
• To treat cradle cap on babies (check your carrier oil safety first).
• To remove makeup (but avoid contact with sensitive areas around your eyes)

And that concludes this lesson on making herb infused oil.

Easy, right? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel excited and empowered to go make herbal oil infusions of your own. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this to be useful, please consider leaving a star rating or sharing this post. Well, I gotta run – it’s time to go strain our next batch of face oil! Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy infusing!

Don’t miss these related posts:

• How to Make Salve or Balms 101: Simple Flexible Recipe
• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Hemp Oil and Salve Recipe
• How to Make and Use Homemade Lavender Oil, Calendula Oil, or Rosehip Infused Oil

Print

How to Make Medicinal Herb Infused Oil (Slow Infusion or Quick Heat)

Learn how to make medicinal herb infused oils with fresh or dry herbs two ways: with a slow infusion or quick heat method. It's easy to do, and once you know the basics, the options of what you can create are endless. Face oil, healing salves, homemade soap… oh my!

Keyword herb infused oil, herbal oil infusion, homemade herbal oil, medicinal herb oil

Equipment

• A glass container with lid, large enough to fit the herbs and oil you plan to use
• Fine mesh strainer and cheesecloth or a nut milk bag
• Optional: double boiler or crock pot (slow cooker) and probe thermometer, for quick heat method only

Ingredients

• Herbs. Dried are best, especially for a cold slow infusion. Fresh, wilted, or dry herbs okay for quick heat method.
• Carrier oil of choice (e.g. olive oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, or other)

Instructions

SLOW COLD INFUSION

• Fill a clean glass container at least two-thirds full with dry herbs.
• Pour over enough oil to cover the herbs by an inch or two.
• Add a lid, and let the infusion sit in a dark location for several weeks (at least 2, up to 6 weeks for maximum potency).

QUICK HEAT METHOD

• Chop herbs into small pieces
• Add herbs to a slow cooker, or the top portion of a double boiler on the stovetop
• Pour over enough oil to cover the herbs by an inch or two.
• Gently heat the herbs and oil for at least 30 minutes, up to 12 hours. Maintain temperature below 110F as much as possible.
• Leave the lid OFF so moisture can evaporate.

STRAINING AND STORAGE (both methods)

• Strain the herbs from the oil using a fine mesh colander lined with cheesecloth or a reusable nut milk bag. Let drip drain for a bit, then squeeze excess oil from the herbs.
• Transfer the finished herb infused oil into clean storage containers of choice. Compost the spent herbs.
• Store herb infused oil in a cool dark place. Refrigeration not usually necessary, but may extend shelf life.
• Most herb infused oils stay good for up to a year or longer. Check the instructions and expected shelf life of your particular carrier oil. Discard oil if it develops mold or putrid/sour smells.
• Enjoy your herb oil as-is, or use it as an ingredient in other products.

The post How to Make Medicinal Herb Infused Oil: Two Ways appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Making beeswax leaf garlands is a fantastic way to celebrate the changing seasons and bring a little piece of the great outdoors inside to enjoy. Especially here on the Central Coast of California where the seasons don’t change very dramatically, our colorful leaf garlands bring me so much joy. They really enhance the fall vibes! This also gave us the perfect excuse to get outside and visit our local park to forage for the most beautiful leaves.

See 17 other wonderful winter garden activities and projects to do indoors here.

Supplies Needed

• Leaves. The more bright and colorful, the better! Don’t be afraid to mix various shapes and sizes.
• Beeswax (or vegan wax alternative). The amount needed depends on your dipping pot and how many leaves you have. You’ll want at least ¼ to ½” of wax in the bottom of the pan after melting. About ½ cup to 1 cup of beeswax pastilles should be plenty. You can always melt more! 
• A double boiler* See notes below.
• Parchment paper or wax paper
• Jute twine, string, or other similar material to hang the leaves from. A string of twinkle lights can create a beautiful wax leaf garland too!
• Optional: Petite clothespins or clips to connect the leaves to the garland. I love using them because it makes it SO easy to attach and adjust the leaves, plus the pins themselves are really cute! But if your string is fine enough, you can also tie it directly around the leaf stems.

Double Boiler Notes

It’s best to heat beeswax via a double boiler rather than in a single pan directly on the stove because beeswax is highly flammable. It can smoke and actually catch fire if it gets too hot, much like grease! To create your own double boiler, choose a smaller pot, pan, or glass bowl that can rest on top or or partially nestle inside the lower pot of boiling water (but not fit completely inside, you don’t want it resting on the bottom of the lower pot). 

Since it can be a bit messy to clean up, some folks use an old or dedicated pan for beeswax. We don’t find that necessary though! For easy clean-up, simply re-heat the pot of beeswax, pour off any leftover wax to save for another project, wipe out the pot or pan with a paper towel, then wash well with soap and hot water (use the hot water from the double boiler!). 

Tips for success

It’s really simple and straightforward to make a beeswax leaf garland. Cliff notes: dip leaves in wax and hang. Lol! But here are a few tips that will make things even easier and create the most beautiful, long-lasting beeswax leaf garland possible:

• Use fallen, flat leaves. For the best results, collect leaves that have naturally fallen off the tree already. They’ll usually contain less moisture than those plucked fresh from the tree and preserve better in wax. Collect fairly flat leaves rather than ones that are already beginning to curl, and avoid leaves that are crispy and dry. 
  
  
• Press the collected leaves in a book for 24 to 48 hours before you make your beeswax leaf garland (but not much longer or they’ll start to lose color). Flattened leaves are far easier to dip in wax, will dry more flat, and the coating of wax will be more even. Try to keep the stems laying fairly straight and away from the leaf while pressing. Add weight on top of the book as needed.
  
  
• Keep the wax warm, but not piping hot. Super-hot wax can wilt or “cook” the leaves, so after melting, remove the hot wax from the heat and let it sit for a couple minutes to cool just slightly. But use it before it gets too cool! As the wax cools, it will start to re-solidify and dry more thick and chunky (less clear) on the leaves. If you’re dipping a lot of leaves, you may need to reheat the wax once or twice while you work. 
  
  
• Dip the stems too! Dipping the leaf stems in wax helps to fully seal the leaves, better preserve their color, and make the wax leaf garland last longer. 

Instructions to Make a Wax Leaf Garland

1. Add beeswax to the top portion of a double boiler, and with water in the lower pot, heat it on the stovetop over medium-high heat until the beeswax melts completely. Remove the wax from the heat, but keep the water in the double boiler in case you need to reheat it.
   
   
2. One at a time, dip the pressed leaves in the melted beeswax. Work quickly, but be sure the wax coats all parts of the leaf. Tip: Also dip a good portion of the stem in wax now too. It will be easier to go back and dip just the remaining tip of the stem later.
   
   
3. Hold the leaf above the pot and give it a gentle wiggle to let excess wax drip off. Then lay out the wax-dipped leaf flat on a piece of parchment paper or wax paper. Sometimes little chunks of wax will collect where the leaf is touching the parchment paper, so it may be best to lay the leaves face-side-up to hide those imperfections on the back. 
   

4. Once all the leaves have been dipped and are dry, go back and dip the remaining exposed portion of stem in wax as well. Avoid re-dipping the leaf though, or the extra wax layer will show.
   

5. After all the waxed leaves are dry (they dry fast!), clip or tie them to twine to create a garland. It’s usually easiest to hang the twine where you want it first and then attach the leaves. Cluster the leaves close together for an extra lush leaf garland, or hang them more sparsely for a simple, dainty look.

Beeswax leaf garlands look even more amazing when backlit, such as strung in a sunny window or pinned in front of twinkle lights. Light really makes the colors pop! If you don’t want to use tacks or nails, try these small suction window hooks.

How long do waxed leaves last?

Wax-dipped leaves should last (retain color) for several weeks, perhaps up to a couple of months. That said, we like to do this project close to Halloween and then enjoy the colorful wax leaf garland through Thanksgiving. If I make more than I hang, I save the extra waxed leaves in a dark place as back-up so I can swap out any that fade faster than the others. Once we’re done with them, the waxed leaves are a welcome addition to our compost pile. (We don’t put them in our worm bin however.)

Other uses for beeswax leaves

Beyond garlands, there are many beautiful and creative ways to display waxed leaves for fall decor! Cluster the leaves in a bowl or spread them out on the table to create a centerpiece. Pinecones, acorns, and gourds make great waxed leaf companions! Tuck the waxed leaves into a fall wreath, or fill a clear vase with them. You could even glue a magnet on the backside to adorn the refrigerator with fall flair.   

And that’s how to make a beeswax leaf garland.

Well friends, I sure hope you have just as much fun creating your own fall wax leaf garlands as I do. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Also tag me on Instagram so I can see your beautiful leaf garlands too! If you found this tutorial to be inspiring and useful, please consider leaving a star review below. Also, spread the fall love by pinning or sharing this post. Happy leaf foraging and crafting!

You may also enjoy:

• How to Make Homemade Beeswax Wraps (Reusable Food Wraps)
• DIY Rice Heating Pad (or Cold Pack) Tutorial
• How to Make Blown Egg Ornaments
• Are Toxic Candles Poisoning Your Home?
• Natural Homemade Lip Balm Recipe

Print

DIY Beeswax Fall Leaf Garland

Learn how to make a beautiful, natural fall beeswax leaf garland. It's a fun, easy, and sustainable autumn craft project that the whole family can enjoy! Wax leaf garlands look beautiful strung across a sunny window, fireplace mantle, or trailing along a banister. 

Keyword beeswax leaf garland, diy fall garland, fall leaf garland, homemade leaf garland, waxed leaf garland

Ingredients

• Leaves – choose fallen, flat, colorful leaves that are not yet curling or getting crispy
• Beeswax or vegan alternative, enough to create a shallow pool of wax (about 1/4 to 1/2-inch deep) in the pot once melted
• Jute twine, string or twinkle lights
• Double boiler
• Small clothespins
• Parchment paper or waxed paper

Instructions

• Press your collected leaves in a book for 24 to 48 hours before you make your beeswax leaf garland.
• Gently heat beeswax on the stovetop in a double-boiler.
• Once the wax has completely melted, quickly dip each leaf in the wax (one by one) and ensure all parts of the leaf have been coated. Dip some of the stem too.
• Hold the leaf over the pot of wax and lightly wiggle it, allowing excess wax to drip off
• Lay waxed leaves out on parchment paper or waxed paper to dry. They dry fast; within 10 minutes!
• Once dry, go back and dip the uncoated tips of the stems in wax (avoid getting more wax on the leaf). Allow to dry again.
• Use small clothespins to attach the waxes leaves to a piece of twine, string or twinkle lights to create a garland. (It's easiest to hang the string where you want it first, then attach the leaves)
• The leaves should retain their color for several weeks, up to a couple months.
• Enjoy your beautiful homemade beeswax leaf garland!
• For easy clean-up, re-heat the pot of beeswax, pour off any leftover wax to save for another project, wipe out the pot or pan with a paper towel, then wash well with soap and hot water.

The post How to Make a Fall Beeswax Leaf Garland  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.