This guide will cover everything you need to know to grow winter squash and pumpkins from seed to table, including the best time of year to plant them, soil and space requirements, popular varieties, tips on growing winter squash vertically up trellises or in containers, hand pollination, pest control, harvest time, recipes, and more. After reading this, you’re going to want to grow ALL the squash! And you’ll be prepared to successfully do so. 

What is Winter Squash

Winter squash is a group of plants belonging to the cucurbit (Cucurbitaceae) family. Examples of winter squash include pumpkins, butternut squash, acorn squash, spaghetti squash, delicata, kabocha, gourds, and more. Often starchy and semi-sweet in nature, winter squash is popularly used in baking (e.g. pies or sweet breads) as well as roasted, added to soups, stews and more. They also make fantastic natural fall decor!

Have you ever wondered what the difference between winter squash and summer squash is, or why it is called “winter squash” at all? Namely, because winter squash is able to store and enjoy through the winter! Hard squash is another name for winter squash.

Both summer squash and winter squash are grown during the summer, but summer squash (e.g. zucchini) is more tender, perishable, and needs to be eaten or preserved soon after harvest. In contrast, winter squash has hard, thick skin and firm flesh that enables it to last in dry storage for many months post-harvest if cured and stored correctly. In fact, most winter squash varieties improve in flavor after a few months of storage.

When to Plant and Grow Winter Squash 

Don’t let the name confuse you! Pumpkins and winter squash grow during the warm growing season, just like zucchini and other summer squash. They are not frost tolerant. Winter squash takes a longer time to grow, mature, and ripen – often harvested in late summer or fall. Day to maturity varies greatly with variety, averaging 90 to 100 days. 

The best time to plant winter squash is in early spring, after the risk of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up to at least 60 degrees (over 70°F is preferred if direct-sowing seeds). The plants enjoy warm soil and weather, so planting too early can slow their growth. Here on the Central Coast of California, we typically plant winter squash seedlings outside in mid April to early May. 

Winter squash grows best when air temperatures are 50-90°F.  Established fruit will continue to grow and mature in temperatures up to 100°F. But pollination cannot occur and flowers will drop in hotter temperatures, so new fruit will not set. Therefore, places with mild springs and very hot summer weather (e.g. Arizona, Florida, Texas, etc) should plant out winter squash as early in the growing season as possible (even in late winter). Use shade cloth during heat waves as needed, or frost cloth to protect plants from freezing. 

Starting from Seed

It’s easy to grow winter squash and pumpkins from seed! Direct sow seeds outdoors after the last frost, once the soil is 65-70°F. Plant the seeds about an inch deep, and keep the soil consistently moist during germination. We like to cover emerging seedlings with chicken wire cloches to prevent birds or other critters from eating the tender sprouts. 

Or, get a jump start on the growing season and start winter squash seeds indoors and transplant seedlings outside instead. Sow winter squash seeds indoors in a fluffy seed starting mix about 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. Use a seedling heat mat to keep the soil warm and a grow light to provide ample bright light, and don’t forget to harden them off before transplanting outdoors! (See more indoor seed starting tips here). 

HOT TIP: Squash seedlings do not like their roots disturbed (often said to “not transplant well”) so it’s important to not let the seedlings get too crowded, large, or root bound when started indoors. To combat that, we start squash seeds in reusable 4-inch pots or 6-inch pots, and only one seedling per pot. That way, they have plenty of room and do not need to be potted up or teased apart.  

Types of Winter Squash to Grow

The most popular types of winter squash include pumpkins, butternut squash, delicata, spaghetti, and acorn squash. Yet there are numerous other kinds, and dozens of unique varieties within each of those categories. For example, Nutterbutter and Autumn Frost are two of our favorite butternut squash varieties to grow. Sugar pie pumpkins are ideal for baking, while varieties like Cider Jack are great for fall decor and carving. Varieties like cinderella and winter sweet squash are both gorgeous and delicious!

Most winter squash grows on long sprawling vines. Vining squash plants are indeterminate, meaning they will continue to grow larger, longer, and continue to produce fruit all the way up until frost. On the other hand, some winter squash are determinate or bush varieties, which stay more compact and bear most of their fruit over a concentrated, shorter period of time (much like zucchini). Bush varieties also tend to produce fewer squash per plant. Be sure to read plant descriptions to understand which type you’re growing!

See this list of 28 awesome winter squash and pumpkin varieties for more ideas and details.

Growing Requirements: Sun, Soil, Water, Fertilizer 

• Sun: Winter squash grow best with full sun, or a location that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day.
  
  
• Soil: Pumpkin and winter squash thrive in rich, loose, well-draining soil that’s been worked with organic matter (e.g. compost). Winter squash plants like mildly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8.
  
  
• Water: Water winter squash enough to keep the soil moderately damp at all times – not soggy, not dry. The use of a simple soil moisture meter is a huge help! The larger the plants and fruit get, the more water they require. Use mulch around the base of the plant to aid in even moisture retention. 
  
   
• Fertilizer: Pumpkin and winter squash are heavy feeders. To aid in robust fruit development, hard squash benefits from fertilizer with slightly more phosphorus than nitrogen (e.g. 4-6-2). Before planting, amend soil with well-aged compost and/or worm castings plus a slow-release organic fertilizer. We also like to add mycorrhizae to the planting hole to support root development. Later in the growing season, plan to feed your winter squash plants once or twice more with a light top-dressing of fertilizer and/or compost tea.

Spacing Requirements and Growth

Plant winter squash in a location with full sun, rich well-draining soil, and PLENTY of space to grow! Winter squash plants tend to get quite large, though the size varies depending on the cultivar and type (bush vs. vining), so check the spacing requirements for the specific variety you’re growing. 

Bush varieties stay more compact, great for small spaces. On the other hand, vining winter squash can grow anywhere from 3 to 15 feet long. Even more, a single plant will send off several vines in every direction, not just one single long vine. Winter squash plants also have extensive root systems, and don’t grow well when crowded or with competing plants within a couple feet.

You can grow winter squash in the ground pumpkin-patch style, or in raised beds and allow them to sprawl and spill over the sides of beds. In that case, you may want to place a small piece of cardboard (or other protective material) under squash or pumpkins that are sitting directly on the soil to prevent rot or insect damage. Or, save space by growing vining winter squash vertically up a trellis – explored below.

Growing Winter Squash Vertically on Trellises 

Vining winter squash are easy to grow vertically up trellises, obelisks, or other support structures. With small tendrils that curl and grasp, pumpkin and squash vines are natural climbers. Winter squash looks especially whimsical and dramatic hanging from arched trellises and arbors. You can make your own trellis with cattle panel or wire fencing, or buy a pre-made arched trellis.

In addition to saving loads of space, trellising winter squash and pumpkins offers a number of benefits. Increased airflow among the foliage reduces the prevalence of disease and pests. Elevating the fruit makes them less susceptible to rot, pests, or discoloration from sitting on the ground. It also makes everything easier to see and maintain. Finally, trellised squash vines can help create shade to grow less heat-tolerant crops below, such as lettuce or other leafy greens. 

Yet as the squash become very large and heavy, there is a slight risk that the vines can get damaged or even break under the weight of the fruit. Therefore, some gardeners create slings or other supports to help cradle mature fruit as it hangs. Some clever examples of ways to support hanging squash include using pieces of old t-shirts, panty hose, mesh netting, twine slings, or even these specialized pumpkin hammocks.

Hand Pollinating Winter Squash and Pumpkins

Without proper pollination, small squash fruit will start to grow but then fail to develop and shrivel, rot, or fall off the vine. So, it may be necessary to hand-pollinate winter squash flowers – which is easy to do! Simply collect some pollen from an open male flower and transfer it to the center of an open female flower. We usually use a small paintbrush, though a q-tip works as well. You only need to pollinate each squash/female flower once. See the photos below, and learn more about hand-pollinating squash here.

Don’t worry if your winter squash only has male or female flowers at first. That’s common for young plants; the ratio will even out as the plant matures. Plus, you may not want to pollinate the very first squash or two that appears anyways (especially if the plant is still quite small) since that will make the plant focus its energy on developing fruit instead of growing larger in size first.   

Can you grow winter squash in a pot?

Yes, it’s possible to grow winter squash and pumpkins in containers. Yet due to their large size and high water and nutrient demand, winter squash performs best in big pots. Choose a container that is at least 20 to 24 inches deep and wide, or holds at least 15 or 25 gallons of soil. Half wine barrels are perfect! Also ensure the container has plenty of drainage holes, and is filled with high quality potting soil amended with compost. Otherwise, the other growing tips covered in this article apply to potted pumpkins and winter squash too!

Disease and Pest Control

Winter squash and pumpkins are prone to a number of diseases including powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spot, and blight. Powdery mildew is arguably the most common fungal disease that affects winter squash, which appears as irregular white fuzzy spots on the leaves. Mildew isn’t usually fatal to plants, but should still be kept in check. One easy option is to grow varieties that are naturally resistant to powdery mildew. Learn other organic ways to prevent and control powdery mildew in this guide. 

A number of pest insects are attracted to winter squash and pumpkins too. The primary culprits are squash bugs, aphids, and the dreaded squash vine borer. Click on any of the pest names to learn how to control them. Some varieties of squash are naturally resistant to pests, while others are highly susceptible. For instance, blue hubbard squash attracts so many squash bugs and vine borers that it’s often used as a trap crop! In contrast, acorn squash, butternut squash and “cheese pumpkins” are highly resistant to squash vine borers due to their hard stems.

Larger critters may also want a taste of your precious winter squash. Birds may go after young seedlings and tender new growth, while gophers are drawn to eating the roots. Deer, rabbits, rats, squirrels, and other rodents may eat the fruit or foliage. To protect plants, consider using hoops and row covers as needed. We use these chicken wire cloches to cover the plants while they’re still small, and durable gopher baskets to shield the rootball of in-ground plants.

Cold Hardiness: Will winter squash survive frost?

Winter squash isn’t cold hardy. Frost will damage the leaves and fruit, and a hard freeze can kill the plant. In an unexpected frost, protect the plants with frost cover, blankets, or other insulating material (though damage could still occur). It’s important to harvest pumpkins and winter squash intended for longer-term storage before frost, because frost will damage their protective rind and compromise shelf life. Hard squash with frost damage should be harvested within a day or two, stored in the refrigerator, and used or preserved within a week.

When to Harvest Winter Squash and Pumpkins

The time it takes for winter squash to mature depends on the variety you’re growing, ranging from 60 to 120 days to maturity. As harvest time draws near, the leaves will start to turn brown and die back. The stem of a ripe squash should also turn more tan instead of green, and the skin will usually change color.

To check if winter squash is ready for harvest, use the “thumbnail test”: gently poke the skin with your fingernail, and if the skin easily pierces or dents, it’s not ready. Once the skin is tough and dense enough to resist puncture by the thumbnail test, it’s ready. 

Many gardeners wait to harvest winter squash long past they’re technically “ready”, once the vines completely die back but before frost arrives. It’s best to leave winter squash on the vine to mature as long as possible, where it will continue to ripen, develop in flavor, and improve the longevity of shelf life post-harvest. 

How to Harvest Winter Squash

To harvest winter squash, use sharp garden shears to cut the firm stem. Leave a good length of stem connected to the squash, but take care not to cut the vine itself. Avoid breaking the stem off, as this will cause the squash to rot more quickly. If any fruit is cracked, bruised, missing stems, or otherwise damaged, eat those first. Wash off excess dirt, but make sure to thoroughly dry the squash before storage. 

Curing and Storing Winter Squash

Though you can eat and enjoy your winter squash at any time, many varieties benefit from additional resting time to ripen off the vine, where they become more sweet and flavorful over the months to come. 

Immediately after harvest, spread your winter squash out in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Some folks “cure” the squash in a warmer spot (80 to 85 degrees F) for several days before moving it to a cooler location, especially if they feel it was harvested a tad immaturely.

Pumpkins and winter squash store best long-term in a cool, dark, airy location – about 50 to 60°F and 50-70% humidity. We keep ours in a closet under the stairs that stays about 60-65. Avoid storing winter squash in extra-cold damp root cellars or basements. Ideally, keep the squash in a single layer rather than piled on top of one another. 

The time winter squash lasts in storage depends on a number of factors: the variety, maturity at harvest time, and storage conditions. Most winter squash should easily last 2 to 3 months, and many much longer. For example, we were eating good butternut squash this May that was harvested the previous October – over 7 months later! Periodically check your squash stash, and use the ones that are getting wrinkled or soft first.

Recipes: How to Prepare and Eat Winter Squash

Winter squash are most often roasted or used in baking, such as pumpkin sweet bread or butternut squash pie. Yes, you read that right – butternut squash pie! Similar in texture and flavor, many winter squashes can be used interchangeably with pumpkin in recipes – especially butternut, kabocha, and hubbard types. 

The easiest way to roast winter squash is to cut it in half (from stem to bottom), scoop out the guts and seeds, and roast the halves whole. You can roast them face-up with a sprinkle of seasonings, oil, or butter in the hollow cavity, or roast them flesh-side down. I also like to carefully peel and cut butternut into bite-size cubes or “french fries”, toss them in olive oil and seasonings, and bake them like potatoes. 

We also love to use butternut squash in soup, like this creamy roasted butternut squash soup with sage, or add cubed chunks to our favorite kale lentil soup recipe. We also make a killer vegan roasted sugar pie pumpkin 3-bean chili (and often substitute butternut in that recipe too). Or, try our seasoned rice stuffed acorn squash recipe!

Delicata squash has exceptionally thin, edible skin, so peeling isn’t necessary. This makes it especially popular for quick and easy preparation, and even used on salads. Once cooked, spaghetti squash flesh pulls apart into long “noodles” – a fun one for adults and kids alike! 

Last but not least, don’t forget the winter squash seeds are edible too! Learn how to make the most crunchy, delicious and nutritious soaked and roasted pumpkin seeds here (or other hard squash).

Preserving Winter Squash or Pumpkin

The best way to preserve winter squash and pumpkin is to roast, puree, and then freeze it. Then use your homemade squash puree in any recipe that calls for canned pumpkin, including in baking, soups, stew and more. See the easy instructions here. Winter squash and pumpkin can also be pressure canned.

Feeling excited about squash yet?

Well friends, I hope you’re feeling as pumped about growing winter squash as I am now. They really are so beautiful and fun to grow – and eat! Not to mention winter squash it absolutely loaded with antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and fiber. We didn’t even touch on all the health benefits they provide! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and pin or share this post if you found it useful.

You may also enjoy:

• Squash Sex: How to Hand Pollinate Squash to Reduce End Rot and Improve Yields
• 13 Must-Try Zucchini Recipes
• Freezer-Friendly Homemade Pumpkin Puree Recipe (or winter squash)
• Delicious Butternut Squash Pie Recipe
• Soaked and Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
• Creamy Roasted Butternut Squash and Sage Soup
• Healthy Sourdough Pumpkin Bread Recipe (or Muffins)

The post Growing Winter Squash and Pumpkins: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

This guide will explore everything you need to know to grow artichokes, including ideal growing conditions, popular artichoke varieties, how to start from seed, when and how to harvest artichokes, organic pest control, how to prune and divide artichoke plants, how to prepare and eat them, and more!

We grow artichokes to eat as well as an attractive ornamental in our landscape: tucked in raised beds, wine barrels, and in perennial beds with other pollinator plants. Artichokes will always hold a special place in my heart. Growing up, they were one of my favorite special meals that my Dad made for me. I always think of him when we harvest our own now. I wish he could try one… because homegrown chokes are the best!

What is an artichoke? 

Did you know that artichokes are part of the thistle plant family? More specifically, they’re a domesticated variety of the wild cardoon (Cynara cardunculus), which is native to the Mediterranean region. The edible portion that we’ve all come to love and enjoy is actually an immature thistle flower bud that hasn’t yet bloomed. And once they do bloom, artichoke flowers are absolutely stunning – and a favorite for pollinators! 

Artichokes are now grown far and wide, though they thrive in mild coastal climates. Fittingly, the temperate Central Coast of California is known as the artichoke capital of the world – especially Castroville and Watsonville. With its mild winters and cool foggy summers, the region produces nearly all of the artichokes commercially grown and sold in the country. 

Nutritionally, artichokes are rockstars! They’re rich in antioxidants, fiber, folate and vitamin C. They also offer a respectable amount of plant-based protein: 5 grams per cup! Artichokes contain natural probiotics, prebiotics, and inulin, meaning they’re excellent for gut health too.

Artichoke Varieties

• Green Globe is a classic artichoke variety; what you’re very likely to see in the grocery store or garden center. The plants produce 3 to 5 large, round artichoke buds that are 3 to 5 inches in diameter. Many Green Globe varieties have been improved to have less spines on their leaves. 120-180 days to mature from seed, depending on exact cultivar.
  

• Imperial Star is another very common and popular artichoke variety. This includes Imperial hybrids like ‘Tavor‘: a highly-productive, virtually spineless artichoke variety. Imperial artichoke varieties produce 6 to 8 large, round green artichokes similar to green globe, and are often kissed with purple streaks. Imperial Star varieties are adapted to a broader range of climates (including more heat tolerance) than Green Globe. 85 to 90 days to maturity.
  
  
• Violetto (aka Violetto di Romagna) is a purple artichoke variety. It produces abundant smaller, oval or elongated flower buds – about 3 inches wide and 5 inches long. They contain very little inedible fuzzy choke if harvested young and tight, though the leaf tips usually have spines. Hardy in zones 6 and above. 85 to 100 days to maturity. 

Beyond these few popular cultivars, there are dozens of other unique and less common artichoke varieties! We grow several different types, but one of our favorites is Wonder: a high-yielding, spineless, artichoke variety with large meaty hearts. (That’s what is shown in most of the photos in this post). Some gardeners report that purple artichoke varieties are more challenging to grow than green varieties; something to keep in mind for beginner’s. 

Are artichokes annuals or perennials?

Artichokes grow as perennials with ease in zones 7 through 11, where the plants can live for up to 8 years. In temperate climates with little-to-no frost (zones 9-10), artichoke plants will grow right through the winter! Otherwise, the above-ground portion of the plant is usually cut down for winter, but the roots survive under the soil and will re-grow fresh artichoke plants in spring. 

It’s also possible to grow artichokes as perennials in zones 5 and 6 if they’re offered additional protection during winter. For example, by planting artichokes in a sheltered location, moving a pot indoors, and providing ample deep mulch on top to insulate the roots during freezing conditions. 

Otherwise, artichokes are grown as annuals in lower zones. Folks with short growing seasons or those growing artichokes as annuals should look for fast-maturing varieties and ones known to produce well in their first year of growth, such as Imperial or Colorado Star.

When to plant artichokes in the garden

Spring is the best time to plant artichokes in most places, and they’ll be ready for harvest by fall. Folks growing artichokes as perennials in zones 9 and 10 have a more flexible planting schedule, and can add artichokes to their garden essentially any time of year. In fact, fall planting is often recommended for zones 10 and 11. 

To grow artichokes from seed, the slow-growing seeds need to be started indoors in mid to late winter – 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost date in your area. On the other hand, buying seedlings will give you a great head start.

When grown as annuals, artichoke seedlings require a period of vernalization (a couple of weeks where temperatures are below 45°F, but above freezing) in order to produce edible flower buds that same year. So, plant artichoke seedlings outside in early spring when it’s still cool out, but protect them from frost! Alternatively, you can take artichoke seedlings outside (or to a cold place like your garage) to expose them to cool temperatures before planting. Perennial artichokes will be naturally vernalized each winter, so no further steps are needed.

How much space do artichoke plants need?

Artichoke plants grow quite large – reaching 4 feet wide and 6 feet tall, or larger! Therefore, it’s best to space artichoke plants at least 3 to 4 feet apart. Since artichokes can be grown as perennials, make sure to plant them somewhere they can stay awhile. Artichokes grown as annuals will likely not get quite as large as perennials plants, so you may be able to get away with tighter spacing.

As the years go by, artichoke plants divide below the soil to produce more plants, forming clusters. They’ll eventually grow into very dense bushes, when you’ll want to carefully thin and divide them – and get free artichoke plants! Read more on pruning and dividing artichokes below. 

Can you grow artichokes in pots?

Yes, within reason. Because artichokes grow so large (and enjoy ample water), they perform best in raised beds or planted right in the ground. However, you can also grow artichokes in large containers such as half wine barrels, whiskey barrels, or other pots that are at least 18 inches deep and wide at minimum. The more room they have, the more healthy and prolific they will grow! Ensure the pot or container has drainage holes.

Artichoke Growing Requirements: Sun, Soil, Water, Fertilizer

• Sun: Artichokes thrive in full sun to partial shade, with at least 4 to 5 hours of direct sun per day.
  
  
• Temperature: Artichokes do not like excessive heat, which can cause tough bitter chokes or premature flowering. Artichokes’ ideal growing temperature is between 60 and 80 degrees F. Gardeners in hot climates should plant artichokes in a location that receives afternoon shade, or offer protection via shade cloth if needed.
  

• Soil: Artichokes grow best in fertile, well-draining soil. Amend soil with well-aged compost before planting, and add potting soil or horticultural sand to clay soil to increase drainage.
  
  
• Water: Don’t be shy with water! Artichokes grow best with regular deep water, where the soil is maintained consistently moist. Without enough water, the plants will droop (especially in hot conditions) and the edible leaves will grow thin, tough, and papery… not nearly as tasty to eat! Large, established plants require more water than immature plants. Mulch around the base of plants to reduce evaporation, and insulate the roots from temperature swings.
  
  
• Fertilizer: Artichoke plants are fairly heavy feeders. Add aged compost and organic matter to the soil, along with routine feedings via gentle organic fertilizer. We top-dress around the plants with a balanced slow-release organic fertilizer in spring and fall, plus water with compost tea a few times per year. 

Growing Artichokes from Seed 

You can grow artichokes either from seed or buy seedlings (small plants) from the nursery. We’ve done a bit of both! One benefit of growing from seed is having more options to select the exact varieties you want to grow. However, artichoke seeds are very slow to germinate and grow, so starting from seed does take some planning and patience!

To grow artichokes from seed, sow seeds indoors during winter – about 10 to 12 weeks before your last spring frost date. Artichoke seeds take anywhere from 10 to 21 days to germinate or sprout. Because artichoke seeds have such slow and finicky germination, and need to be started so early, I don’t recommend direct sowing seeds outside.

Plant seeds 1/4″ deep in a light fluffy seedling soil mix. Sow two to three seeds per pot or cell to make up for poor germination. Put the seed trays in a warm location (70-80 F) under ample bright light. The use of a seedling heat mat and grow light is ideal for success! Keep the soil damp (not soggy) at all times during germination, and use a humidity dome to prevent the soil from drying out. After they sprout, thin the seedlings to one per cell or pot. Avoid overwatering. Be sure to harden off indoor-grown seedlings before transplanting them outside! Learn more seed starting best practices here.

How many artichokes does each plant produce?

Most artichoke varieties produce about 5 to 8 artichokes per plant. Some can produce up to a dozen or more! Each plant will produce a few large artichokes on a central branching stalk, along with several smaller secondary artichokes that grow from side shoots. 

Artichokes grown as perennials will often produce more (and higher quality) artichokes in their second, third, and following years compared to the first year they were planted. We’ve already harvested over 40 artichokes from 4 established plants this spring! After a spring harvest, you can encourage the production of a second fall harvest by pruning the plants down to the ground. 

Organic Pest Control for Artichokes

Unfortunately, many pest insects seem to love artichokes just as much as we do! Therefore, growing artichokes may require a little TLC at times. But it’s not difficult to do – and well worth the effort! Thankfully, we’ve found that the more full and established the plants become, the less pest pressure there is per artichoke. Cutting back the plants each year also helps remove lingering pests or disease. 

The most common artichoke pests include aphids, pincher bugs or earwigs, and ants (who are attracted to the aphids). Gophers are also highly attracted to artichoke plants, so plan to use gopher baskets if needed. Finally, artichokes are susceptible to fungal diseases like powdery mildew, crown rot, botrytis rot or gray mold. 

How to get rid of aphids and earwigs on artichokes

It’s easiest to control pest infestations when caught early, so routinely check your plants! Aphids especially like to hide around the lower outer leaves around the artichoke buds (shown above) and on tender new leaf growth, including in the very center of the plant.

Fend off aphids and ants by blasting them away with water. Simply set your hose to a strong stream and spray away, including between and under leaves. Proceed to using a dilute aphid soap spray if that doesn’t work, which should be sprayed directly on the aphids and then rinsed off later. During peak aphid season, I spray my artichoke heads with water weekly. Learn more about organic aphid control here, including our DIY soap spray recipe. 

Companion planting can also help prevent or reduce the presence of pests. For example, earwigs supposedly hate dill, fennel, garlic, calendula, sweet alyssum and cilantro – so plant some near or below the artichoke plants! Sprinkling diatomaceous earth (DE) around the base of artichokes can also help deter earwigs. 

If your artichokes still end up a little buggy despite your best efforts, it’s not the end of the world! After harvest, soak and swirl artichokes in a bowl of cold water with a healthy dose of vinegar or lemon juice added. This will help dislodge many pests, and the acid also helps reduce bitterness. When I notice an artichoke bud is extra buggy (beyond saving) I simply let it bloom so we can all enjoy it – myself and bees included!

When and How to Harvest Artichokes 

The best time to harvest artichokes is when they’ve grown to a respectable size and feel firm, full, and tight, but before the heads/leaf bracts start to open and separate. It’s not the end of the world if you miss the prime harvest moment thought! We’ve eaten plenty that were just starting to loosen up a bit. Yet if left too long, the artichoke leaves and center will become increasingly tough, bitter, of full of inedible fuzzy choke. Eventually, the artichoke head will open and flower. 

To harvest artichokes, simply cut the stalk a couple inches below the flower bud using a sharp pair of garden shears. Remember that the first few artichokes will usually grow larger than the side shoots to follow. Yet both small and large artichokes are wonderful to eat. In fact, the smaller ones are often more tender, sweet, and “meaty” inside!

Here on the Central Coast of California, we can get a couple good flushes of artichokes per year. For instance, if we cut back the plants in late fall, they regrow over winter and bear fresh artichokes to harvest in spring. After that, we cut them down again to get another harvest in fall.

How to store artichokes after harvest

For maximum freshness, store artichokes in the refrigerator inside a plastic bag or other sealed container. They should stay firm, fresh, and good to eat for several weeks that way. Utilize the crisper drawer if they’ll fit! It’s best to not wash artichokes before storage, only at time of use.

Are artichokes frost tolerant?

Artichokes are tolerant of light frosts once established. When protected, the roots and crown can survive freezing conditions. The above-ground portion of the plant may be damaged in a hard freeze. Though artichoke seedlings need vernalization (chill hours) they are not nearly as hardy as mature plants and should be protected from frost – such as with frost cloth or cloches. 

Pruning and Overwintering Artichoke Plants

Prepare your artichoke plants for winter by cutting them back all the way to the ground after fall harvest. Or, leave just a couple inches of stalk above the soil. In climates expecting freezing conditions, cover the top of the roots and crown area with several inches of aged compost, followed by 6 inches of straw mulch for insulation. Well-mulched artichokes should be able to survive down to 14°F. If temperatures dip below 15°F, consider adding an upside down cardboard box, cooler, or frost cloth over the root area for added protection. 

Gardeners with mild, frost-free winters don’t necessarily have to cut their artichoke plants completely to the ground. However, we’ve found the plants respond very well to it! It removes dead leaves and stems, pests and fungal spores, and gives them a vigorous fresh start. 

I also like to routinely prune and remove some of the plant’s lower leaves as they naturally turn yellow and fade during the growing season. This also helps re-direct energy to the flower buds, increase airflow, and reduce the risk of disease.

When and How to Divide Artichoke Plants

Artichokes should be divided every 3 to 5 years. As artichokes grow, the root systems divide to form numerous crowns. Each crown grows a new plant, which can be allowed to grow in a cluster for the first few years. However, I thin them out if needed by cutting back all but two or three plants per cluster as they regrow after pruning. 

As time goes on, mature artichoke plants become overly crowded, reducing the quality and size of the heads. Dividing artichoke plants invigorates new fresh growth, and also creates free artichokes to plant elsewhere! Divide artichokes during the early spring or late fall, as summer dividing may cause excessive stress to the plants. You can do it when the plants are fully cut back or just starting to re-grow. 

To divide artichokes, start by brushing back the soil around the base of the plant so you can identify each offshoot (pup) in the root crown. Then use a shovel to firmly dig straight down between the offshoots to sever the roots between them. Next, carefully dig wide and deep around each pup, trying to keep a substantial root ball intact for each section. Finally, transplant the newly divided artichoke pup to a new location (preferably already amended and prepared in advance). Water well after transplanting.

Preparing Artichokes to Eat

There are a number of ways to cook and eat artichokes: steamed, boiled, roasted, grilled, stuffed and more! The prime edible portion is the thick fleshy part at the base of the leathery leaves (scraped off with your teeth), along with the tender inner leaves and heart. Steaming or boiling artichokes is the most simple and straightforward way to enjoy them. See a full tutorial on how to easily cook and eat artichokes here! We’ve been roasting/steaming our artichokes in the oven lately, explained in the photo caption below.

No matter the method, you’ll want to avoid eating the fuzzy, fibrous, pokey “choke” part in the center – located just above the heart. You can either halve the artichokes to cut it out or remove the choke part before cooking them, or leave artichokes whole and simply eat around it later. If they’re extra spiny, you may also want to trim off the tops of the leaves. But definitely enjoy eating the heart; that’s arguably the best part! 

You’ll often see lemon served alongside artichokes. One, because the bright acid helps to reduce any bitterness in the chokes. Two, because cooking with or rubbing lemon on artichokes helps reduce the oxidation that quickly occurs when artichokes are cut and otherwise turn brown.

Can you preserve artichokes? 

It is difficult to preserve the edible outer leaf portion of artichoke buds, but you can preserve the tender inner leaves and hearts. Artichoke hearts can be frozen, preserved in oil, pickled, or pressure-canned. It’s best to preserve cooked artichokes, not raw.

To be honest, we typically don’t bother with preserving our chokes. We eat as many as possible fresh, and always allow several to flower for the pollinators too! Even the author of this well-rated marinated pickled artichoke recipe admits “processing all these baby artichokes will take some time, and, well, generate a lot of waste.” But I won’t knock it until I try it! It does seem like a good use of all the small side shoots – especially when you have a large bounty on your hands.

And that’s how to grow, harvest, and use artichokes!

Oof, that was a hefty one, eh? As you can see, there are a quite a few unique nuances to growing artichokes. But now that you know all the tricks, I hope you feel empowered and excited to grow artichokes of your own too! Let me know if you have questions in the comments below. If you learned something new today, please consider pinning or sharing this post! Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy artichoke growing… and eating!

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• Top 23 Plants for Pollinators
• Companion Planting 101 with Printable Chart

The post How to Grow Artichokes: A Complete Guide with Photos appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

This article explores different types of cucumbers to grow, ideal growing conditions, several awesome cucumber trellis ideas, important pollination requirements, potential pests or diseases, and ways to use and preserve your cucumber bounty.

This article is proudly sponsored by Gardener’s Supply Company, our favorite Certified B Corp for seed starting supplies, cucumber trellises, and other garden goods. This post also contains affiliate links that help support the work we do here at Homestead and Chill. We’re so grateful for your support!

Cucumber Growing Conditions & Requirements

• Temperature: Cucumbers grow best when both the air and soil are nice and warm. They thrive when outdoor temperatures are between 75-85°F, and the soil is at least 65°F. Cucumbers grow more slowly (or fail to grow at all) when temperatures dip below 50 or rise over 95°F. Above 95, the plants will fail to produce fruit as the flowers fall off.  Use shade cloth and mulch to protect cucumber plants from extreme heat. Cucumbers do not tolerate frost.
  

• Sun: Cucumber plants need full sun in most cases, or at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Yet since cucumber plants don’t love extreme heat, they will benefit from partial shade (especially afternoon shade) in hot climates where summer temperatures routinely exceed 90°F.
  
  
• Soil: Cucumbers grow best in soil that’s rich in organic matter, but loose and well-draining. For the best results, amend soil with a few inches of well-aged compost and/or worm castings prior to planting. Fluff up heavy clay soil with the addition of sand or potting soil. 
  

• Water: Regular deep water is one of THE keys to successfully grow cucumbers! Cucumber plants love consistently damp soil and a regular watering schedule*. Irregular water (fluctuating between very wet and dry) leads to stressed plants, dry fruit, and bitter-tasting cucumbers. A couple inches of mulch around the base of plants will help with even moisture retention. Avoid overwatering however, since soggy soil or standing water can lead to root rot.
  

*Water needs and frequency vary depending on your climate, soil, and rainfall. It doesn’t rain here in the summer at all, so we run our raised bed drip irrigation system twice a week for an hour to give the plants a nice deep drink. 

Types of Cucumbers and Varieties To Grow

Cucumbers generally fall into three categories: classic slicers, pickling cucumbers, or thin-skinned burpless varieties. 

• Slicing cucumbers are what’s most commonly found in grocery stores, and are used for fresh eating (though they can also be pickled). Slicers average about 6 to 10 inches in length, usually have medium-thick skin that’s slightly bumpy, and a moderate amount of seeds inside. Marketmore, Paraiso, and Green 18 are a few great slicer cucumber varieties. Some hybrid slicers have thinner skin – like Manny, my favorite!
  
  
• Pickling cucumbers are short and stout (3 to 4 inches long) and usually have bumpy skin. The compact size is perfect to pack inside jars for homemade pickles! Pickling cucumbers are also usually more firm, and therefore better retain a crunchy texture in pickles and preserves. Popular pickling cucumber varieties include Homemade Pickles, Excelsior Cucumber, National Pickling, and Provision.
  

• English, Asian, or other “burpless” cucumbers are similar to slicers, but have exceptionally thin, tender skin. This makes them ideal for fresh eating, and easier to digest – hence the “burpless” moniker! Burpless cucumber varieties tend to grow longer (up to 12 inches or more) but stay more slender, so they’re usually less seedy than traditional slicers. I love to grow burpless cucumbers, including Tasty Green, Telegraph and Kalunga.
  
  
• There are many other types of cucumbers out there too! Cucamelons, gherkins, white cucumbers, Armenian, lemon, and more. Visit our cucamelon grow guide here.

Bush vs. Vining Cucumbers

Cucumber plants have two different growth habits: bush or vining, much like squash plants. Vining cucumber plants grow larger, produce more fruit over a longer period of time, require a trellis for support, and maximize space by growing vertically! In contrast, bush cucumber varieties are compact, bear less generous volumes of fruit per plant, and don’t require a trellis. They’re ideal to grow in fields, rows, containers, or raised beds – but need to be spaced farther apart, explained below. 

Planting Cucumber Seedlings

• Starting Seeds: Start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Cucumber seedlings grow really fast and won’t be happy if they’re kept indoors for too long! Also plan provide indoor seedlings ample bright light (e.g. under grow lights) for the best results. Get more detailed tips on indoor seed starting here.
  
  
• Planting: Transplant cucumber seedlings outside in the spring after the soil has warmed, and at least 2 weeks after the danger of frost has passed. Studies show that cucumbers will not grow if the soil temperature is below 63°F, so when in doubt, use a soil thermometer to check before planting! May is generally a good time to plant cucumbers in most growing zones. Be sure to harden off indoor seedlings first and follow other transplanting best practices!
  
  
• Spacing: Hilled or bush cucumber plants (those left to sprawl out) should be spaced about 3 to 5 feet apart. However, vining trellised cucumber plants can be spaced as close as 12 inches apart along the base of a common trellis. 

Cucumber Pollination and Fruit Growth

Did you know that some cucumber varieties need pollination to grow fruit, while others do not – and are considered “self-fertile”? The seed or plant description should specify if the variety is monoecious or parthenocarpic.

Most cucumber varieties are monoecious: in order for cucumbers to grow, pollen must be physically transferred from their male to female flowers – either by bees, other insects, or by hand! Without proper pollination, the cucumber fruits fail to develop, staying small and eventually falling off the vine. 

In contrast, parthenocarpic cucumber varieties set fruit without pollination. They’re exceptionally productive, including in greenhouses or high-tunnels where pollinators may not be present. Parthenocarpic cucumber varieties are always vining plants, further adding to their appeal for maximizing productivity. 

Supporting Cucumber Plants on Trellises

Cucumber vines grow about 4 to 6 feet long on average, depending on the variety. That said, an ideal cucumber trellis should be at least 4 or 5 feet tall. Using a wide trellis allows you to grow several cucumber plants side-by-side up the same trellis, spaced about a foot apart along the base. Vining cucumber plants naturally climb trellises with clinging tendrils, so there’s no need to tie them up. 

The Benefits of Cucumber Trellises 

Even vining cucumber plants could be left to sprawl out on the ground, yet growing cucumbers up a trellis offers numerous benefits: it saves space, increases airflow (which reduces disease and pests), makes harvesting easier, and keeps the cucumber fruit growing nice and straight! Cucumbers left to grow on the ground tend to curl, or get discolored spots where they were laying on the soil.

In small garden spaces, you may even be able to grow other crops below your cucumber trellis. For example, planting lettuce or other small leafy greens below a cucumber trellis both maximizes your growing space AND provides the greens with valuable shade and shelter during the heat of summer. 

Cucumber Trellis Options

Cucumber trellises come in many shapes and sizes: lean-tos, A-frames, vertical trellises, tall cages, or pointed teepees… they all get the job done! A-frame cucumber trellises are especially popular among home gardeners. This extra-large “Over the Top” cucumber trellis is sturdy enough to support melons or vining squash too. You could even grow cucumbers up a large walk-through arched trellis or arbor, though the vines likely won’t make it to the top.  

Gardener’s Supply Company offers a wide variety of high-quality, sturdy, and attractive cucumber trellises to buy online. Check them out here! We have and love the Deluxe Cucumber Trellis from Gardener’s Supply, and plan to add a second one to the garden this season. Or you could get creative and make your own cucumber trellis using netting, stakes, wire, sticks, or other sturdy materials. 

Growing Cucumbers in Containers

Yes, you can grow cucumbers in pots! Choose a container that is at least one foot deep and wide per plant. Then, all of the basic growing requirements that we’ve already covered (soil, sun, temperature, etc) applies to growing cucumber plants in pots too.

However, achieving the ideal even and consistently damp soil (not soggy) that cucumbers love is more tricky in containers, since potted soil tend to yo-yo between wet and dry more than raised beds or in-ground gardens. To solve that, consider planting cucumbers in this handy Victory Self-Watering Planter with Vine Trellis. The self-watering system ensures consistent, optimal hydration – and a sturdy support trellis is included!

Cucumber Pests and Diseases

Pests 

Common cucumber pests include spotted and striped cucumber beetles, aphids, thrips, whitefly, root knot nematodes, squash bugs, squash vine borers, and spider mites. Some of these pests cause harm by chewing on the plants while others transmit diseases (or both). For instance, spotted and striped cucumber beetles cause damage by chewing on foliage and fruit, but they also transmit a bacterial wilt pathogen that can kill cucurbits. 

The first step in organic pest management is to properly identify the pest first, then proceed conservatively and depending on the severity of the infestation. Neem oil spray, fine mesh garden fabric (row covers), and marigold companion plants can all help deter pest insects. I don’t recommend using broad-spectrum pesticides – for the sake of your health, pollinators, and the environment! Click on any of the pest names above to see specific control tips. 

Diseases

There are also a number of cucumber plant diseases that can occur including powder mildew, cucumber mosaic virus, downy mildew, angular leaf spot, bacterial wilt, Phytophthora crown and root rot. Bacterial wilt, leaf spot, and mosaic virus are difficult to remedy once they set in, but there are a number of proactive prevention and management techniques to use – including good garden hygiene and sanitation, reducing overhead watering (use drip irrigation instead), minimizing aphid and cucumber beetle populations, and removing infected plants.

Cucumber fungal diseases such as downy mildew or powdery mildew can often be controlled organically with the use of neem oil spray. See this guide for more complete instructions on how to safely and effectively use neem oil in the garden, and more information about powdery mildew here.

One great way to thwart these issues is to grow disease-resistant varieties! For example, powdery mildew is very prevalent in our area, so we seek out powdery mildew resistant cucumber varieties like Tasty Green or Manny. Other varieties may exhibit natural resistance to downy mildew, cucumber mosaic virus, scab, bacterial wilt, and more. 

Harvesting Cucumbers

To harvest cucumbers, either cut their stem or gently twist the fruit off of the vine. Be careful to not damage the vine. For the best-tasting cucumbers, it’s key to harvest cucumbers in a timely manner: soon after (or even just before) the fruit have reached their desired size for the variety grown. Harvest pickling cucumbers nice and small (2 to 3 inches long) and don’t let them grow longer than 4 or 5 inches.

Cucumbers don’t need to “ripen” so they really can’t be picked too early. On the flip side, cucumbers left on the vine too long will taste bitter, the skin gets increasingly thick and tough, and the insides get more and more seedy. Plus, routinely harvesting fruit allows the plant to redirect its energy into growing new cucumbers – thereby increasing yields!

Why do my cucumbers taste bitter?

Cucumbers get bitter when a natural compound called cucurbitacin becomes elevated in the fruit. A number of things make cucumbers taste bitter, including when they’re harvested and how they’re grown. 

• Cucumbers that are harvested early are more sweet and tender, while overgrown cucumbers left on the vine too long quickly become bitter. 
• Heat stress causes higher levels of cucurbitacin and bitterness. 
• Irregular or inconsistent watering throughout the growing season also stresses the plants and makes cucumbers bitter. 
• Finally, some cucumber varieties are naturally more sweet and less bitter than others, such as English and Persian cucumbers. Slicing cucumbers are most prone to getting bitter. 

Reduce bitterness in cucumbers by providing regular water, harvesting fruit early, protecting plants from extreme heat with shade cloth and mulch, and removing the peel on already-harvested fruit that is bitter.

How to Store Cucumbers

Store just-harvested cucumbers in the refrigerator inside a reusable plastic bag in the crisper drawer. Cucumbers should stay fresh and crisp for over a week in the fridge, compared to only a few days if left out at room temperature. Wait to cut cucumbers until you’re ready to use them, but it’s okay to wash them before storage.

Yet try not to store cucumbers below 40F, as they’ll degrade more quickly under too cold of conditions. Also avoid storing cucumbers near apples or tomatoes, which emit a plant hormone (ethylene) that will cause the cucumbers to yellow. Store sliced or cut cucumbers in a bowl of cool water for only a few days to prevent them from drying out. 

Ways to Use and Preserve Cucumbers

Given their mild and inconspicuous flavor, there are endless ways to use and preserve cucumbers! Use fresh cucumbers in salads (including cucumber-forward Greek salad), sandwiches, wraps, burgers, smoothies, tzatziki, salsas, sliced in water or sun tea, or use them in a juicer. You could even experiment cooking with cucumbers, including sautéed, roasted or grilled. 

To preserve cucumbers, consider making delicious homemade pickles: either quick refrigerator pickles, canned, or lacto-fermented brined cucumber pickles. You can also dehydrate thin cucumber slices into chips, or freeze them. Check out this post from Practical Self Reliance to see 15 different ways to preserve cucumbers!

And that sums up everything you need to know to successfully grow cucumbers.

All in all, I hope you enjoyed reading this article – and hopefully learned something new! I even learned a couple new things myself, which is always a treat. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and feel free to visit our other seed-to-harvest grow guides here. Here’s wishing you bountiful cucumber growing season ahead!

You may enjoy these related posts:

• Easy Tzatziki Sauce Recipe (Cucumber Yogurt Dip)
• How to Grow Cucamelons (Mexican Sour Gherkin Cucumbers)
• 7 Useful Seed Starting Supplies for Success Indoors
• 13 Must-Try Zucchini Recipes: Clever Ways to Use Zucchini
• 6 Ways to Support or Train Tomatoes: Cages, Trellises & More 
• How to Grow Artichokes: A Complete Guide with Photos

The post How to Grow and Support Cucumber Plants (Cucumber Trellis Ideas) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Read along to learn how to grow chamomile. We’ll explore the various types of chamomile, its medicinal benefits, how to start from seed or seedlings, tips on how to harvest and dry chamomile, pest control, and plenty of ideas for how to use it! We love to use our homegrown chamomile to make tea, face oil, salves, and more. As a companion plant, chamomile attracts a wide variety of pollinators and beneficial insects to your garden too.

Types of Chamomile 

There are many different types of chamomile including Roman, German, Egyptian, and some lesser-known types like Yellow, Dyer’s, Moroccan, and Wild Chamomile. Within each classification, there may be several unique cultivars too! For example, some of our favorite German chamomile varieties include Zloty Lan, Bodegold, and this classic German Chamomile.

Roman, German and Egyptian chamomile are the most common and esteemed types of chamomile used for tea, natural healing remedies, and home gardens. They all offer similar soothing medicinal benefits (known to calm skin, inflammation, digestion and nerves) though they have a few notable differences too, explained below. 

What’s the difference between Roman and German chamomile?

Roman chamomile has a light, fresh, sweet apple-like aroma, while German chamomile smells more grassy, like very sweet straw. German chamomile flowers are known to have stronger, more potent aromatic essential oils than their Roman counterparts. While both are used in tea, Roman chamomile has the propensity to get bitter while German chamomile tastes herbaceous and sweet with little-to-no bitterness. 

When it comes to growing chamomile at home, it’s also important to know how the different types grow:

• Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile, also known as English chamomile) is a low-growing, sprawling perennial herb. Meaning it will continue to grow in your garden for several years, even after it dies back in the winter. Roman chamomile grows back each year via spreading rhizomes in the soil. Considered a short-lived perennial, many gardeners grow roman chamomile as an annual or for just a couple seasons before starting new plants.
  
  
• German chamomile (Matricaria Recutita) is an annual herb, so you’ll need to plant new seeds or seedlings each spring. However, German chamomile may self-seed and grow new plants on its own too! German chamomile plants grow much taller, bloom more profusely, and are less hardy than Roman chamomile.

Benefits of Chamomile

Chamomile is among the most popular and widely-used herbs in natural medicine throughout history and modern times – and for good reason! Its vast healing benefits have been confirmed by dozens of studies throughout the years. This comprehensive review explores chamomile’s ability to help treat everything from eczema and rashes to inflammation and indigestion. 

The specific flavonoids and terpenes found in chamomile flowers contribute to its medicinal powers. For instance, a natural blue oil called chamazulene is only found in chamomile, and is shown to have potent anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties. German chamomile contains more chamazulene, giving its pure essential oil that distinctive blue color.

Topical use

If you look closely, you’ll regularly find chamomile as a key ingredient in personal care products like face serums, lotions, shampoos, and more. That’s because it works absolute wonders for the skin! Chamomile is known to soothe redness, irritation, swelling, and itching associated with a variety of skin conditions, including but not limited to eczema, psoriasis, acne, allergies, minor wounds, rashes, and burns.

Internal use

Internally, chamomile exudes the same soothing anti-inflammatory benefits. Taken as tea, a tincture, or other supplement form, chamomile can calm the nervous system, reduce insomnia and anxiety, stimulate the immune system, ease inflammation and spasms in the digestive system, lessen symptoms of hay fever, and flush out toxins.

What kind of chamomile is best for tea?

Most tea connoisseurs would likely argue that German chamomile is the best type for tea: it has the highest levels of aromatic medicinal compounds and is also least likely to taste bitter. However, Roman and Egyptian chamomile are often used in tea too! All three offer the calming benefits and flavors quintessential to chamomile.

HOW TO GROW CHAMOMILE

To grow chamomile at home, you can either start from seed or pick up seedlings at your local nursery. We do a bit of both! To grow chamomile from seed, I typically like to start seeds indoors and then transplant seedlings out once the weather is warm enough. Chamomile takes awhile to germinate and the seedlings grow fairly slow, so starting indoors gives us a good head start on the growing season. However, you can directly sow chamomile seeds outdoors too!

Growing chamomile from seed

• Start chamomile seeds indoors 6 weeks before your last spring frost date. Direct-sow chamomile seeds outdoors after the last spring frost has passed, once the soil temperature reaches 55 to 60°F.
  
  
• Fill your seed-starting containers of choice with a light, fluffy, sterile seed starting mix.
  
  
• Lightly press the tiny chamomile seeds into the surface of the soil, or sprinkle a very light dusting of seedling soil over them (no more than ⅛”). Otherwise, do not bury the seeds.
  
  
• Chamomile seeds need light to germinate, so put your indoor seed starting trays under a grow light right away.
  
  
• They also sprout most readily in moderately warm soil, around 65-70°F. Depending on the temperature of your growing space, a seedling heat mat may come in handy.
  
  
• It is essential to keep the soil and seeds moist (not soggy) during germination. Cover your seedling trays with a clear humidity dome to help keep in moisture until they sprout, then remove the covers. Use a spray bottle to gently mist the top of the soil if it starts to dry out.
  
  
• Chamomile seeds germinate slowly (up to 14 days or longer), so be patient!
  
  
• To promote quick and healthy growth, thin chamomile seedlings down to just one or two plants per cell or container within a few weeks of sprouting. Crowded seedlings grow more slowly or may get stunted as they compete for water, root space, nutrients and airflow.
  
  
• See our favorite seed starting supplies here. For more details and tips on successfully starting seeds indoors, check out this step-by-step guide!

When to plant chamomile outside

Plant chamomile outside in the garden in early spring. Whether you grow chamomile from seed or buy nursery starts, wait to transplant seedlings outside until after the last spring frost has passed. If an unexpected late frost occurs, plan to protect the young tender seedlings to prevent damage – such as with a cloche or hoops and frost cover. Yet don’t wait too long! It’s important for chamomile to get established in the garden before hot weather arrives. Mature plants with deep roots are more tolerant of heat.

Chamomile growing requirements 

• Sun: Both German and Roman chamomile grow best in full sun in most regions, though Roman chamomile is more tolerant of partial shade. Both varieties will appreciate some afternoon shade in very hot climates or southern regions.
  
  
• Soil: Chamomile isn’t picky about soil quality. In fact, chamomile seems to grow best in poorer quality soil – so fertilizer shouldn’t be necessary. However, it’s important that the soil is well-draining since chamomile doesn’t like wet feet. Average potting soil, sandy soil amended with a little compost, or sandy loam soil works great. Amend clay soil with horticultural sand and/or potting soil to increase drainage.
  
  
• Water:  While chamomile plants are young, provide moderate water and maintain damp soil (not soggy) at all times. Yet as it matures, established chamomile plants become fairly drought-tolerant and prefer the soil to dry out ever-so-slightly between watering. Don’t let the soil get too dry during hot conditions though.
  
  
• Spacing and size: Space German chamomile plants about 6 to 8 inches apart, and Roman chamomile 8 to 12 inches. German chamomile grows 24 to 36 inches tall, though some varieties grow taller or shorter. German chamomile is also usually quite narrow and spindly, and often flopping over unless additional support is provided. In contrast, Roman chamomile plants grow full and dense but only a few inches tall (3 to 6 inches) and sprawl out across 12 inches or wider. 

How much chamomile to grow? 

Chamomile flowers are tiny, and even smaller once they’re dry! Therefore, it can take a good amount of dried flowers to make just one cup of tea, and significantly more to create infused oils, salves, or other homemade goodies you may have in mind. (That’s why chamomile products are often quite expensive!) 

A few chamomile plants will provide the average hobby gardener with a decent amount of chamomile to enjoy, though more plants will enable you to harvest and preserve plenty for storage, projects, and prolonged use. If you only have space for one or two chamomile plants, choose larger chamomile varieties that will provide bountiful flowers – like Zloty Lan.

Is chamomile frost hardy?

German chamomile is less hardy than Roman chamomile. Established German chamomile plants should be able to tolerate a light frost (ours do!) but likely would not survive a hard freeze. On the other hand, Roman chamomile also dies back during freezing winter conditions, but the roots and rhizomes will survive and regrow once the weather warms up again in spring. Provide mulch around the base of the plants to insulate and protect the roots from freezing conditions. Young plants of both varieties are more susceptible to frost damage than mature plants.

Chamomile pests and diseases

Chamomile is inflicted by very few pests or diseases. Instead, it attracts a number of good insects including bees, beneficial wasps, hover flies, and ladybugs! Aphids are the most common pest insect to attack chamomile, and are especially attracted to the tender new growth tips. Aphids cause damage by piercing and sucking on leaves and stems, taking away vital nutrients and moisture. Plus, you probably don’t want aphids all up in your chamomile tea!

Thankfully, aphids are fairly easy to control. First, try blasting them off with a firm stream of water from the hose (supporting the plant with your other hand). If that doesn’t work, use homemade organic soap spray to kill them on contact, and then wash it off afterwards to remove the soapy residue. I recommend doing this when the plant isn’t full of flowers you wish to harvest, such as before the plant starts blooming or right after a thorough harvest. Learn more about organic aphid control here, including our DIY soap spray recipe.

Sometimes our chamomile has some other really tiny bugs on it (smaller than aphids) but they usually “abandon ship” and leave the flowers on their own once harvested.

Growing chamomile in containers

To grow chamomile in a container, choose a pot, fabric grow bag, or other container that is at least 10 inches wide and deep. 12”x12” is ideal. Most importantly, ensure the pot has a drainage hole.  Fill the container with a well-draining potting soil or container soil. Place the pot in a sunny location. Chamomile grown in containers will likely need more frequent water than plants in the ground or raised beds, but still prefers moderately damp to slightly dry soil over constant moisture.

When and how to harvest chamomile

It’s easy to harvest chamomile: simply pluck the small daisy-like flowers off the top of their stems between your fingers. They snap right off with a fun little pop! A specialized picking rake makes harvesting chamomile a breeze, especially if you’re growing a large quantity.

Don’t be shy about harvesting chamomile. The more flowers you harvest, the more will grow! Chamomile will continue to bloom from spring through fall, and even during winter in mild frost-free climates. Though they’ve slowed down a bit, we’re still harvesting chamomile now (in February) from plants we put out last fall.

For the highest quality essential oil content and best flavor for tea, harvest chamomile flowers fairly young – soon after the flowers have fully opened, but before the centers become extra large and the petals droop backwards. Most herbalists prefer to harvest chamomile in the morning hours, before the sun and heat of the day has a chance to dissipate the delicate essential oils. 

How to dry and store chamomile after harvest

You can either dry chamomile flowers in a food dehydrator or let them passively air dry. To avoid adding unnecessary moisture and prolong drying time (or increase risk of mold), we do not wash our chamomile post-harvest.

To air dry chamomile, spread the flowers out in a single layer on a screen, in an airy basket, or on an herb drying rack in a warm, dry, arid location. Add a fan to increase air circulation if needed. If not well-spaced or if the air is too humid, the flowers may mold before they can fully dry. 

A food dehydrator is a great way to dry chamomile, especially for long-term storage or if you intend to make oil infusions, tinctures, or salves. (Using 100% dry flowers is crucial for oils or salves since any leftover moisture in the flowers can make the final product mold or spoil more easily). Yet it’s best to dry chamomile on a very low temperature setting to retain its beneficial and medicinal compounds. We set our dehydrator to 110°F or below (or use the lowest setting available) for 24 hours or longer. Warmer temperatures will make the flowers dry faster, though I don’t recommend drying chamomile in the oven. 

Once fully dry, store dried chamomile in an airtight container (e.g. glass container with a lid) in a cool, dry, dark location. There, it will retain its aroma, flavor, and beneficial properties for up to one year.

8 Ways to Use Homegrown Chamomile 

There are dozens of fun ways to use chamomile, both fresh and dried. Here are some ideas:

1. The edible flowers can be used fresh (or dried) to garnish drinks, salads, desserts, or added to ice cubes.
   
   
2. Use fresh or dried chamomile to make hot tea or sun tea! Learn how to safely make herbal sun tea with fresh herbs here. For hot tea, use about 1 tablespoon of dried chamomile per cup of hot water and allow it to steep for 5 to 8 minutes. When using fresh chamomile in tea, use two or three tablespoons per cup of water instead. I love to use this stainless steel infuser to make a single mug of tea, or this adorable loose-leaf glass teapot for tea for two.
   
   
3. Steep dry chamomile flowers in an oil of choice (e.g. olive oil, jojoba oil, or sweet almond oil) to create chamomile-infused oil. Then you can use the chamomile oil as a face, body, or massage oil. Or, as a culinary oil if you choose an edible carrier oil. Learn more about making herb-infused oils here, including carrier oil options.
   
   
4. Or, use chamomile-infused oil as an ingredient to create homemade skincare products like healing salves or balms, lip balm, body butter, soap, lotion and more.
   
   
5. Add dry chamomile flowers to sachets of potpourri or in stovetop potpourri.
   
   
6. Make a chamomile hydrosol to use as a naturally-scented room spray or linen spray.
   
   
7. Mix dried chamomile flowers in homemade bath salt blends. Check out our DIY natural bath salts recipe here!
   
   
8. For stronger internal use, create a chamomile tincture.

And that concludes this lesson on how to grow chamomile.

I hope this article provided you with everything you need to know to successfully grow chamomile at home. And, that you feel excited to do so now! Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Also please consider pinning or sharing this article if you found it useful. Enjoy your chamomile bounty!

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The post Calming Chamomile: How to Grow, Harvest, Dry and Use Chamomile appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Read along to learn everything you need to know to grow cabbage from seed (or nursery seedlings) to harvest. We’ll explore the best time of year to grow cabbage, planting and care tips, our favorite varieties, when and how to harvest cabbage, and how to best store, use or preserve it. This guide will also troubleshoot some potential issues such as pests, disease, and splitting cabbage heads.

At a Glance

Cabbage is a versatile crop that can be grown in a wide range of climates and conditions. Cabbage is cold-hardy and prefers cool growing temperatures (especially during maturation) though it can successfully grow during the heat of summer too! Depending on the variety, cabbage can take anywhere from 2 to 4 months to mature (65 to 100+ days) from seed to harvest. Many varieties hold up in cold storage for several months post-harvest.

When to plant cabbage

The best time to plant cabbage in most growing zones is early-to-mid summer in preparation of a fall harvest. Cabbage that spends its final days maturing in cooler conditions will be exceptionally more juicy, tender, and sweet-tasting compared to cabbage that matures during hot summer weather. 

That said, gardeners that have a long growing season (e.g. zone 8 or higher) and/or those with mild summer temperatures can also plant cabbage in the early spring for a summer harvest. Here on the temperate Central Coast of California, we can grow cabbage essentially year-round!

• For a fall harvest, start seeds in May and then transplant seedlings into the garden in June or July. Late-season and storage varieties are ideal for summer planting. Folks with especially short growing seasons or that receive freezing conditions in early fall should start a few weeks sooner, or choose faster-maturing varieties. 

• For a summer harvest, choose early to mid-season cabbage varieties with shorter maturation times. Start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost date. Plant seedlings outside after the risk of frost has passed. 

• For a winter harvest: Plant cabbage seedlings anytime between September to February in climates with mild winters (where temperatures are rarely below 32°F). However, we’ve found seedlings get the most vigorous start when planted in September or October, before the reduced sunlight and shorter days of winter.  

Types of cabbage to grow

Cabbage is incredibly diverse! There are classic round green heads of cabbage, red versions, savoy cabbage with ruffled leaves, and tender elongated Napa cabbage, which is especially popular to make kimchi. Within each of those groups, there are dozens of unique varieties, shapes, and sizes of cabbage to try and grow! Not to mention that Brussels sprouts, bok choy, kale (aka leaf cabbage) and many others are technically members of the cabbage family.

Read variety descriptions to determine if a particular type of cabbage is ideal for long term storage, matures early or late, offers natural disease resistance, or other unique attributes. 

We always like to grow several different varieties, colors and sizes. We also choose cultivars with varying maturation times, plus those with good “field storage” abilities (e.g. can be left in the garden awhile, even after they’ve reached a harvestable size) giving us a nice staggered harvest of cabbage over several months. 

Some of our favorite cabbage varieties include: Integro (mid-size red), Expect (dense green heads with notable heat tolerance and good long term storage capacity), Capture (medium green heads, great disease resistance but shorter storage life), Deadon (large sage green heads kissed with purple streaks, extra cold-hardy), Caraflex (small conical green heads), Megaton (massive 10-17 pound heads!), and Emiko Napa cabbage (a compact, bolt-tolerant Napa cabbage variety).

Starting cabbage from seed

To grow cabbage from seed, follow typical seed-starting best practices outlined below. If you’re new to growing from seed, stop by our Seed Starting 101 guide for more detailed tips on raising seedlings indoors! If you aren’t growing from seed, check out this article to learn how to choose the best seedlings at the nursery.

• Sow seeds in a light, fluffy, sterile seed-starting soil.
• Plant cabbage seeds ¼ inch deep and cover very lightly with soil.
• Keep the soil evenly moist. A humidity dome can help prevent the top of the soil from drying out during germination. 
• Ideal soil temperature for cabbage seeds to sprout is between 75 to 85F. Use a seedling heat mat if needed.
• As soon as sprouts emerge, the cabbage seedlings need strong bright light. A very sunny window may work, though I recommend using grow lights for the best results when starting seeds indoors. 
• After sprouting, switch to bottom-watering to promote deep root growth and prevent damping off (fungal disease).
• Thin seedlings early! Once their first set of true leaves appear, I cut out extra seedlings using fine pruning snips – leaving just one choice seedling per container or cell. Thinned seedlings grow much larger, faster and healthier than crowded ones.
• Once they’re at least 3 weeks old, feed cabbage seedlings with a gentle fertilizer such as diluted liquid kelp or fish emulsion. 
• To prevent transplant shock, harden off indoor-raised seedlings before transplanting them outside.

Planting cabbage seedlings (spacing)

Plant cabbage seedlings outdoors on a calm day with no extreme weather in the forecast. We like to add a handful of worm castings in each planting hole as a gentle boost of nutrients to encourage healthy root development. Water well after planting. It’s okay to slightly bury the stems of tall leggy seedlings as long as they’ve been properly hardened off.  If needed, protect tender seedlings from frost exposure (explained more to follow).

Spacing requirements for cabbage plants depends on the variety. In general, plan to space cabbage plants about 2 feet apart. Some smaller or more compact cabbage varieties can be spaced as close as 12”, while extra-large cultivars may need up to 3 feet of space. I like to grow cabbage in staggered rows (slightly offsetting each plant) to maximize the number of plants I can fit per bed.

Sun, soil, water & fertilizer requirements

• Sun: Cabbage grows best with full sun – or at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. 

• Soil: Cabbage prefers fertile, loamy, well-draining soil with good moisture retention properties. Amend soil with organic matter such as aged compost. Protect the soil with 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the base of the plant, which will help retain even moisture and buffer the roots against temperature swings.
  
• Water: Cabbage requires consistent moisture: both in frequency and amount. Meaning, aim to keep your cabbage soil fairly moist at all times (but not soggy), and water on a schedule. Irregular water or under-watering can lead to poor head development – including loose, airy cabbage heads. Overwatering can lead to root rot, or may cause very mature cabbage heads to split. 

• Fertilizer: Before planting cabbage, add a well-balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer like this one to the soil. It will slowly release nutrients to feed the plant for many months. Extra-large or late-maturing cabbages may benefit from additional nutrients halfway through the growing season (when they first start heading up), such as compost tea, alfalfa tea, or another side-dressing of dry fertilizer on top. 

How cold can cabbage plants withstand?

While cabbage does prefer cooler weather overall, it can be damaged by freezing conditions. Cabbage seedlings are far more frost-sensitive than mature cabbage plants, which can tolerate temperatures down to 26°F once established. If the temperature drops below 32°F, protect cabbage plants by covering them with frost cloth – or an upside down bucket over the top! Remember to remove covers (buckets especially) during the day when temperatures rise.

Can I grow cabbage in a pot?

Absolutely! Cabbage can be grown in containers, though you’ll want to use a large enough pot to sustain a healthy plant of its size. Small containers are more prone to drying out, and will require more frequent fertilizing. So, grow cabbage in a container that holds at least 5 gallons of soil and is at least 12 inches wide by 15 to 18 inches deep. A 15 to 20 gallon grow bag would work well, but would need more regular watering than a raised bed or in-ground garden.

Cabbage Pests and Disease

The most common cabbage pests include aphids, slugs or snails, and caterpillars – including aptly-named cabbage moths, cabbage worms, and cabbage loopers. Beyond insects, other garden visitors may be attracted to cabbage (especially tender young plants) such as birds, rodents, deer, rabbits, and others. One interesting thing I’ve observed is that pests are less attracted to purple cabbage varieties compared to green – especially caterpillars and birds!

Cabbage pest control measures depend on the severity of the infestation. Inspect plants often to catch issues early! It’s easy to spot and hand-smush a few cabbage worm eggs, or blast aphids off leaves with a firm stream of water. Protect cabbages from more persistent pests with physical barriers like hoops and insect netting, natural BT spray for cabbage worms, or DIY soap spray for aphids.   

Common cabbage diseases include a variety of different bacterial or fungal infections such as powdery mildew, downy mildew, black rot, bacterial soft rot, and others. Many of these cabbage diseases coincide with wet foliage, so it’s best to water cabbage at the base of the plant and avoid splashing the leaves as much as possible. Good plant spacing (airflow between plants) and soil health routines (e.g. using biologically-active compost and mycorrhizae) can help prevent disease as well.

Related: How to get rid of cabbage worms, 9 ways to control aphids, and organic slug and snail control methods

Troubleshooting: Why did my cabbage split open?

Cabbage heads may split open for a number of reasons. It happens fast too! One minute it looks fine, and the next day – bam! It’s cracked or busted open. Don’t worry, split cabbage is still good to eat though! Simply cut around any iffy-looking parts and enjoy the rest.

The most common cause of splitting cabbage is when a mature cabbage head suddenly absorbs too much water – such as after a heavy rain, or from being overwatered after a dry spell. So, pick your large firm cabbage heads before a big rainstorm! Remember that mulch is key in maintaining evenly damp soil, preventing the moisture yo-yo that cabbage hates. Using drip irrigation also offers steady, slow, deep water – ideal for cabbage.  

Mature cabbages may also split if they’re left in the field long past their prime. Have you ever thought about where cabbage seed comes from? If you don’t harvest cabbage in a timely manner, it will crack open and eventually grow flowers (and later seed) from the center or core of the head.  

Finally, over-feeding your cabbage late in the growing season can lead to split heads, brought on by the sudden burst of nutrients and growth. Once your cabbage begins to form a head, reduce or avoid adding fertilizer. 

When and How to Harvest Cabbage

You can tell cabbage is ready to harvest by feeling it. A mature head of cabbage will feel dense and tight, while immature cabbage heads feel leafy and loose. The size of mature cabbage can vary greatly depending on variety. Some cabbage heads are the size of a softball, while others are basketball size or larger! 

If the variety is known to have good “field storage” abilities, you can definitely leave them out in the garden for a while after they’ve reached a harvestable size (weather permitting of course). We’ve left some of ours for a couple months after they headed up without issue! 

It’s best to harvest cabbage in the early morning while it’s cool, crisp, and firm. To harvest cabbage, you can either: 

1. Use a sharp knife, loppers, or a small hand saw to cut the whole plant out at the soil line, leaving the roots to decompose in place no-till style
2. Twist or pull the entire plant out (roots and all), OR
3. Cut only the head off, leaving the base of the plant to re-grow more baby cabbages. Keep reading to learn more!

Will cabbage grow back after cutting?

Yes, cabbage will grow more baby heads of cabbage once the main head is removed! For this to happen, harvest the main head by cutting just below the base of the head, but leave several inches of stem and a handful of old leaves behind to grow. 

Within a few weeks you should see new baby cabbage buds starting to form. If multiple buds regrow, trim some off to leave only two or three to develop. The new cabbage “side-heads” won’t be as large as the first one, but they’re still a great little treat if you have time and space to leave your cabbage plants to regrow! 

Are cabbage leaves edible?

Absolutely. The loose outer cabbage leaves are 100% edible. They’re like a cross between cabbage and collard greens. However, because the outer cabbage leaves are often quite old, tattered, and even buggy by the end of the season, they aren’t necessarily the most enticing. We usually feed them to our chickens or toss them in the compost pile. 

Yet if you do want to cook with them, I suggest removing the ribs (like de-stemming kale) and cooking them long enough to get tender. That said, cabbage leaves are a great addition to soup! Younger, more tender cabbage leaves are popular to make cabbage rolls. 

How to Store Cabbage After Harvest

Remove all the loose or damaged outer leaves from the cabbage head. If needed, trim the stem down to be flush with the bottom of the head. Leave un-washed until use. For the best long-term quality, store cabbage in the refrigerator wrapped in a plastic bag (tied or clipped shut). Many cabbage varieties will last for several months stored in the refrigerator. Even if a little mold starts to develop on the outer leaves or stem, that can be cut off. The inner portion of the head should still be good!  

Ways to Use and Preserve Cabbage

Use fresh cabbage in soups, stew, stir-fries, coleslaw and more. Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat) makes a mean coleslaw! Get our coleslaw recipe here. I also love simple sautéed cabbage with a little olive oil or butter, salt, pepper, and garlic. You can grill or roast cabbage, or eat it raw in salads or wraps! Check out this round-up of over 50 cabbage recipes for more ideas. 

There are a number of ways to preserve cabbage. One of our personal favorites is to make homemade sauerkraut. Making fermented kimchi is another similar option. To freeze cabbage, cut it into bite size pieces, quickly blanch it (two minutes or less), spread onto a towel-lined pan to dry, and then pack into freezer bags. We also use and preserve cabbage by incorporating it into freezer-friendly soup recipes. Crystal’s book?

That wraps up this cabbage grow guide.

Well folks, I hope this gave you allll the information that you need to successfully grow cabbage, and then some! Lol. Maybe it’s my German roots and fond memories of cooking cabbage with my parents growing up, but I truly do love it. Please let me know in the comments below if you have any lingering questions. If you found this article to be useful, please help spread the love by pinning or sharing this post! Thanks for tuning in today.

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The post How to Grow Cabbage Seed to Harvest: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

This guide will cover the ideal temperatures to grow lettuce, how to start lettuce from seed, different varieties, plant spacing, along with sun, soil, water, and fertilizer needs. We’ll also explore ways to protect lettuce from heat or frost to prolong your growing season, as well as the best ways to harvest and store lettuce to make it last!

What’s the best time of year to grow lettuce?

Like most leafy greens, lettuce grows best during spring or fall in most climates. This cool-season crop thrives when temperatures are in the 50s and 60s (F), though some heat-tolerant varieties will also grow well in the low to mid 70’s too. In places with mild winters, you can grow lettuce right through the winter. Find the best time to start lettuce seeds or plant seedlings in your area with our handy planting calendars – they’re available for every zone!

Will lettuce survive in heat?

Lettuce can tolerate a few warm days here and there (in the 80’s) especially if it cools down at night. But an extreme heat event or prolonged temperatures over 75-80°F will make lettuce “bolt” – or go to flower then seed rather than growing new leaves. The existing leaves will also become increasingly tough and bitter. So, if your lettuce starts to bolt, it will taste best if you harvest it sooner than later! Some lettuce varieties are more forgiving and slow-to-bolt than others.

Pro tip: To extend the lifespan and quality of plants, use shade cloth to keep lettuce cool during warm conditions.

Is lettuce frost hardy?

Yes, mature lettuce plants will survive light frosts – and even a hard freeze or two! However, the harder the frost, the more leaf damage will occur. Frost-damaged lettuce leaves appear thin, dark or discolored, and wilted. They aren’t great to eat, though your chickens or worm bin will like them! Cold temperatures regularly below 45-50°F also makes lettuce grow more slowly.  

Therefore, plan to protect lettuce from frost when possible, especially tender young seedlings. One option is to shelter them with hoops and frost cover. Cut off frost-damaged leaves to make way for fresh healthy regrowth. 

How much sun does lettuce need? Can lettuce grow in shade?

Lettuce grows best when it receives full sun, or at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sun per day. However, most varieties of lettuce will tolerate partial shade (4 to 6 hours of sun) and may even benefit from afternoon shade during warm weather. 

How long does lettuce take to grow? 

Lettuce grows very quickly, making it an ideal crop for short growing seasons, as a filler crop between others, or for succession planting many rounds of lettuce over a longer growing season. Most lettuce varieties form mature heads in less than 60 days after planting seed, though you can start harvesting young leaves far sooner – in 30 days or less. 

Lettuce varieties

Romaine, iceberg, redleaf, bibb, buttercrunch, salanova… There are dozens (if not hundreds) of different types of lettuce to grow! Grow lettuce varieties that you like to eat, but also read descriptions to find varieties well-suited to your climate and growing preferences. For instance, we always seek out heat tolerant or bolt-resistant lettuce varieties to help offset our unpredictable springs and warm fall weather. 

Personally, I like lettuce with a fairly open head structure to accommodate cut-and-come-again or perpetual harvesting (explained more in the “harvest” section below). It’s also fun to grow a few different colors! Some of our favorite lettuce varieties include Coastal Star, Nevada, Freckles, Magenta, Red Mist and Muir – all of which are heat tolerant lettuce varieties.

Growing lettuce from seed will give you the most options, though your local nursery should carry several different types to choose from too.

How to grow lettuce from seed

Here are some tips for starting lettuce from seed. If you’re growing lettuce from nursery seedlings instead, skip ahead!

• You can sow lettuce seeds directly outside in your garden, or start seeds indoors and transplant seedlings outside a few weeks after they sprout. I personally like to start lettuce inside so birds and insects can’t go after the tiny vulnerable sprouts. 
  

• Lettuce seeds need light to germinate, so you’ll need to have them under bright light if you’re starting indoors! A sunny window will do in a pinch, though the seedlings may become leggy. I always recommend using a grow light for the best results when starting seeds indoors. 
  

• Lettuce seeds also prefer slightly cooler soil than most other seeds. The ideal soil temperature for lettuce to sprout is 60-75°F, though they’ll sprout in temperatures as low as 40°F (albeit slower). On the other hand, lettuce seeds will actually go dormant at high temperatures (over 85°F+). So, do NOT use a seedling heat mat for lettuce unless you’re starting seeds in an exceptionally cold spot! 
  

• Sow lettuce seeds on the surface of the soil (lightly pressed in) or gently covered with no more than ¼” of light fluffy soil. Remember, they need light to sprout!
  
  
• Outdoors, sow and/or thin lettuce following the spacing recommendations below.
  

• Keep the seeds and top of the soil moist (not soggy) to encourage germination, and then switch to bottom-watering indoor seedlings once they’ve sprouted.
  
  
• Once the lettuce seedlings grow their first set of true leaves, thin them down to just one seedling per cell. I recommend trimming out excess seedlings rather than plucking them out.
  

• Thereafter, follow other common seed-starting best practices, including hardening off indoor-raised seedlings to prevent transplant shock. 

Related guides: Seed Starting 101, How to Thin Seedlings, Fertilizing Seedlings, Grow Lights 101, Hardening Off, and Transplanting Best Practices

How far to space lettuce plants

Lettuce spacing varies depending on the type of lettuce and intended use or size. Most lettuce varieties need at least 6 inches of space between each plant (center to center) to form full heads. Varieties that produce larger heads may prefer up to 8 inches of space, such as romaine or butterhead. Smaller loose leaf lettuces can be planted as close as 4 inches apart, while those intended to be used for baby greens are often scattered or sown in a single dense patch with very little space between plants.

Good spacing is essential for lettuce to thrive and to grow nice dense heads. Crowded plants are in competition for nutrients, airflow, root space and water, and can lead to spindly growth. This applies to lettuce growing in the garden as well as indoor lettuce seedlings – which is why I always recommend thinning seedlings early on! Overcrowded plants are also more prone to disease and pests.

Soil, water and fertilizer for lettuce

Lettuce grows best in soil that is well-draining, loose, and moderately rich in organic matter, such as potting soil or native soil that has been amended with compost and/or worm castings. Lettuce also likes regular water (at least twice per week) and consistently damp (not soggy) soil. We installed automated drip irrigation in all our raised beds. We and the plants both love it!

Lettuce plants have a shallow root systems, so be sure to mulch around them! Mulch will prevent the top few inches of soil from drying out, and also buffer the plant roots from temperature swings. 

Lettuce needs adequate nitrogen to support lush leafy growth, so consider adding a gentle slow-release organic fertilizer to the soil prior to planting. Or, apply dilute liquid seaweed, alfalfa tea, compost tea, or fish emulsion after planting/during the growing season. 

Can I grow lettuce in pots?

Yes, lettuce is a fantastic crop for container gardens! With its small stature and shallow root system, lettuce grows very well in pots – including grow bags, wine barrels, plastic pots or terracotta. You can even grow lettuce indoors in pots under grow lights or in a bright sunny windowsill! Choose a container that is at least 6 to 8 inches deep and has adequate drainage holes in the bottom. Wider containers may give you enough space to grow a few lettuce plants per pot.

Potential lettuce pests

The most common lettuce pests include slugs, snails, pillbugs, caterpillars, beetles, grasshoppers, and aphids. However, I find lettuce attracts far fewer insects than kale and other leafy greens! Birds, rabbits, deer, squirrels, and other rodents may also be tempted to nibble on your lettuce. If needed, shielding lettuce with hoops and floating row cover (e.g. insect netting) or individual cloches can be effective at protecting the plants from a variety of pests – especially vulnerable young seedlings. See more options for plant covers here.

Related pest control guides: aphids, caterpillars, slugs and snails

How to harvest lettuce

You can harvest lettuce at any stage, and any way you see fit! Pluck individual small leaves when the plants are still young to enjoy as baby leaf lettuce. If you do that, always make sure to leave several leaves behind to continue to photosynthesize and grow, and never cut the very centermost leaves. Or, you can wait until the plant matures and harvest a full head of lettuce at once. In that case, I suggest cutting it out at the base rather than pulling out the roots. Some varieties will grow back! 

I love to use the cut and come again method to harvest lettuce. Rather than harvesting the entire head, we cut or gently pull off a few of the outermost or oldest leaves from each head as needed (every few days to once per week). That way, we can harvest lettuce from the same plants for many many months. This is also a great way to get a lot of lettuce from just a handful of plants!

The best way to store lettuce

The best way to store fresh lettuce is in the refrigerator in an airtight container, such as a large food storage “tupperware” or glass container with a lid, or in a sealed plastic bag. Add a tiny splash of water inside to help keep things moist. In my experience, lettuce stays good and crisp for over a week this way! 

For the best results, harvest homegrown lettuce when the plants are perky and it’s cool outside (such as first thing in the morning or late evening) and then get it into the refrigerator as quickly as possible to prevent wilting.  

And that’s how to grow lettuce.

I hope you feel excited and empowered to grow some gorgeous lettuce of your own now. When we first began gardening, lettuce wasn’t on the top of our priority list for some reason. Now, I can’t imagine our cool season garden without it! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this information to be useful, please consider pinning or sharing this post.

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The post Growing Lettuce: How to Plant, Protect and Harvest Lettuce appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Quick Tips on Growing Basil

• To grow basil from seed, start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Find more details in our indoor seed starting guide here. Or, in zones 7 and higher, you can sow seeds directly in the garden any time after your last spring frost. 
• Transplant basil seedlings outdoors once the risk of frost has passed. If starting from seed, be sure to harden off your seedlings first! Protect the plants if frost is in forecast.
• Plant basil in a location that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of sun each day. Basil enjoys full sun but will tolerate (and even benefit from) afternoon shade in the hottest climates.
• Provide consistent moisture; enough to keep the soil damp but not always soggy. Plants grown in containers will dry out faster and require more frequent water. 
• Basil prefers fairly rich but well-draining soil, such as potting soil amended with compost. 
• Basil is a tender annual herb, so it will only last for one year. However, you can keep up your basil supply right through winter by rooting cuttings and growing basil in a sunny window (or under a grow light) indoors!
• Leave some basil to flower in the garden at the end of the season. It’s a bee favorite!

Check out our guide “How to Grow Bushy Basil to Harvest All Season Long” for even more information, including harvest tips and videos. 

Why Propagate Basil from Cuttings

Propagation is the act of reproducing plants from a parent plant. There are a number of ways to propagate plants including grafting, budding, division, or taking cuttings from the parent plant – which is usually the easiest method! Cuttings can be dipped in rooting hormone and then planted in soil, or allowed to sit in water to grow roots first. I prefer to use the water method; it is the most simple and successful! 

Growing basil from cuttings is easy to do, and a great way to get more free basil plants – fast! Compared to starting from seed, growing basil from cuttings gives you a several-week head start. Even if you do grow basil from seed too, rooting basil cuttings is a great way to increase your supply – and share with friends.

Topping basil (including taking cuttings) doesn’t hurt the parent plant at all. On the contrary, topping basil actually makes the original plant grow far larger and bushier. So much so, I always recommend topping basil plants – even if you aren’t going to root the cuttings!

Where to Take Basil Cuttings From

You can take basil cuttings and propagate new plants from any established basil plant! However, it’s best to take cuttings from healthy, fairly young basil plants. Avoid taking basil cuttings from stems that have already started to flower (go to seed) or appears to be infected with disease or pests. 

• Grocery store – Potted basil plants from the grocery store almost always have at least 5 or more seedlings crammed into one pot – perfect to take cuttings from! Rather than leaving them crowded, I also recommend gently teasing apart (separating) the seedlings and roots to give each plant more space to grow.
  
• Garden center – Buying basil seedlings at the nursery? Double (or triple) your take-home by propagating cuttings from them!
  
• Your seedlings – We usually grow our own basil from seed. By the time the seedlings are ready for their first haircut or topping (explained above) I usually keep a few of the longest, biggest cuttings to root in water – just for fun, and to get a few more basil seedlings as backup!
  
• Your garden – Once you’re growing basil in your garden, you can keep up an endless supply by taking cuttings! In the early summer, propagate a few basil cuttings from your existing plants to start a fresh round that will last through fall. Again, be sure to take cuttings from basil stems that haven’t yet begun to flower.
  
• A friends garden – Have a green thumb friend who’s growing basil? Ask if you can take a few cuttings to root at home.
  
• Already cut basil – You can usually find fresh bundles of cut basil at the grocery store or Farmers Market. If it was harvested fairly recently and still looks perky and fresh, you can likely propagate it! Give the stem end a fresh cut and then proceed with the rooting instructions below. 

How to Root or Propagate Basil Cuttings in Water

Rooting basil in water takes about two to three weeks, but is incredibly easy to do! In fact, it’s so easy that we’ve done it by accident several times – simply by storing our cut basil stems in water on the kitchen counter! (Did you know that’s the best way to keep basil fresh after harvest? Store it like cut flowers.)

1. Collect basil cuttings by trimming off the top 4 to 6 inches of a basil stem or branch.
2. Remove the leaves from the bottom 2 inches of the stem, if there are any. 
3. Put the basil cuttings in a glass of water. Clear glass is fun so you can watch the roots grow, but not required. The stems should be submerged in at least a couple inches of water. 
4. Place the cuttings somewhere they will receive bright but indirect light, such as your kitchen counter or in a windowsill. 
5. Change the water in the glass every few days until roots begin to grow, which can take a week or so. 
6. Allow the roots to grow until they’re 1 to 2 inches long before transplanting the rooted basil cuttings into soil. 
7. Now you can plant your rooted basil cutting directly outdoors in the garden, into a larger pot to keep indoors, or wherever you plan to grow it. We usually transplant them into a small pot of fluffy seed starting soil for a week or two first, just so their new tender roots have a chance to get accustomed to soil first. 

Cheers to free plants!

Now that you know how to propagate and grow basil from cuttings, enjoy your bounty – and share some with your friends! Don’t miss our delicious freezer-friendly Besto Pesto recipe. We love it with walnuts, fresh squeezed lemon juice, and parmesan cheese, but it’s easy to make vegan too! You can use a variety greens (arugula, kale, fava bean greens, etc) and also an array of nuts, including pecans, pistachios, or classic pine nuts. Or, skip the nuts and use hemp hearts, sunflower seeds, or pumpkin seeds instead!

Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this article to be helpful, please spread the basil love by pinning or sharing this post!

You may also enjoy:

• Preserving Basil: How to Dry Basil in a Dehydrator or Oven
• How to Propagate (Grow) Sage Cuttings in Water or Soil
• How to Grow Bushy Basil to Harvest All Summer Long
• Creamy Roasted Tomato Basil Soup with Fresh Tomatoes (Vegan)
• Companion Planting 101 (w/ Garden Companion Planting Chart)
• Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors

The post How to Grow Basil from Cuttings: Easy Water Propagation appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Should I pinch or top pepper plant seedlings?

The answer is: it depends! In some instances, topping pepper plants can lead to more abundant fruit production. But it certainly isn’t mandatory. 

Topping pepper plant seedlings encourages them to grow more bushy. By pruning off the top of the seedling when it’s young, the plant will focus its energy on growing side branches – rather than getting tall and lanky. The more side branches, the more places to grow flowers and fruit! So, that’s why topping pepper plants can help you get larger harvests. 

Between homemade chili powder, sweet and spicy fermented hot sauce, pan-blistered shishito peppers, and our favorite easy refrigerator pickled peppers… I say the more peppers, the merrier!

There are a couple additional perks of topping pepper plants. Bushier plants with more dense leaves can offer better protection from the sun, and therefore reduce sun-scalding or sunburn on the peppers. The plants also tend to be less top-heavy, and are easily supported with a stake or basic wire pepper cage.

On the other hand, topping pepper plants (especially older seedlings) can slightly delay when they’ll start to form fruit. So, gardeners with especially short growing seasons may not want to top their peppers.

What varieties of peppers should be topped?

Topping pepper plants is typically recommended for pepper varieties that produce small fruit. For instance, jalapeños, Thai chilis, serranos, cayenne, shishitos, habaneros (I prefer habanda), or other petite chili peppers. Chili peppers generally grow fairly bushy on their own; topping them simply pushes them to do so sooner and even more!

On the other hand, topping bell pepper plants may have a negative impact on growth and fruit development. This applies to any large, thick-walled pepper varieties. Topping bell peppers is rumored to potentially stunt the plants or reduce the number of fruit they produce (and they already produce far fewer fruit in general). So when in doubt, leave those big ones un-topped. Or, do an experiment! Top some bell peppers, leave the others au natural, and compare how they perform.

For medium-size fruit like banana or poblano peppers, you could go either way – top them or not. 

Topping Pepper Plants: When and How

Top pepper plants when the seedlings are at least 5 to 6 inches tall. On the other hand, don’t wait too long to top your peppers or it can stunt their growth. We usually top our pepper seedlings about a month after they germinate, before transplanting them outside.

Simply trim or pinch off the very tip of the main stem (an inch or so), right above an upper set of leaves. I like to use my favorite small pruning snips. See the photos below. Be sure your pruners or scissors are clean to prevent spread of disease!

When topping pepper seedlings, it’s important to always leave behind several leaves on the plant. New branches will grow from the main stem at the nodes just above each leaf. Plus, the plant needs plenty of leaves to continue to photosynthesize and grow! 

Pinching Pepper Flowers

While it may seem counterintuitive, pinching off early pepper flowers is another way to encourage larger, more productive pepper plants. Rather than focusing all of its energy on growing fruit right away, removing the first few flower buds will redirect the young plant to continue to grow bigger in size first – so it can produce more peppers later in life! 

To pinch pepper flowers, simply use your fingers or small pruners to gently remove the first round of flower buds that the plant produces – especially when the plant is still small (about 8 inches tall or less). I do this for small chili peppers and larger bell peppers alike. You can remove all the earliest flower buds, or only some of them. Either way, it will help the pepper plant grow.

And that’s the 411 on topping pepper plants!

Well, I hope that settles it. As you can see, there are some great benefits to topping pepper plants. However, that doesn’t mean you have to do it to get a good harvest, so feel free to experiment and see how your favorite pepper varieties respond! Need more pepper tips? Check out our comprehensive pepper grow guide here. Happy planting and pepper pruning!

You may also like:

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• Pan-Roasted (Blistered) Shishito Peppers Recipe
• Quick & Easy Refrigerator Pickled Peppers Recipe
• Sweet & Spicy Homemade Fermented Pepper Hot Sauce
• How to Make Homemade Chili Powder

The post Topping Pepper Plants and Pinching Flowers for Better Harvests appeared first on Homestead and Chill.