Starting seeds indoors is rewarding and easy to do. It gives you a jump start on the growing season, and a few helpful tools make all the difference in the world. Without adequate bright light, seedlings will grow floppy and weak. Without the right soil medium, seeds may struggle to sprout or grow strong roots. Yet investing in quality indoor seed starting supplies will help you grow strong, happy, healthy seedlings (and loads of homegrown food) for many years to come! 

This article is proudly sponsored by Gardener’s Supply Company, our favorite Certified B Corp for seed starting supplies and other garden goods. This post also contains affiliate links that help support the work we do here at Homestead and Chill. We’re so grateful for your support!

Setting up an Indoor Seed Starting Area

You can start seeds just about anywhere indoors. In a garage, basement, spare room… wherever you have a little free space! Some of our friends start seeds right on their dining room table, or even on a closet floor. Ideally, the area should be protected from extreme temperature swings and have a power outlet nearby. We’ve been growing from seed for nearly a decade, and have used everything from a greenhouse to an insulated shed to a single shelf in our guest room. Work with what you have!

7 INDOOR SEED STARTING SUPPLIES

1) Seed Starting Medium

Seeds should be planted in a light, fluffy, sterile medium so they can easily sprout and grow their tiny tender roots. Potting soil, compost, and garden soil are often too heavy and rich for seeds to germinate, or will lead to uneven germination and slow growth. Plus, using soil from your garden could potentially introduce unwanted disease or pests to your seed starting supplies!

Instead, choose a mix that is specifically designed for sprouting seeds – like this organic seed starting mix. I recommend pre-moistening the mix prior to planting seeds. Make it damp, but not soggy!

2) Seedling Trays and Pots

One of the most essential seed starting supplies you’ll need is containers to sprout seeds in. Yet there are tons of different styles available: plastic pots, soil blockers, paper pots, and more. Each one has its pros and cons, and every gardener has their own preference on what to use!

Here are a few popular options:

• All-in-one seed starting kits make it exceptionally easy to get going. For example, this Growease kit includes a 12 or 24-cell seedling tray, a self-watering wicking reservoir to prevent overwatering, and a clear humidity dome to keep things nice and damp during germination. It’s also made of durable, BPA-free, post-consumer recycled plastic! This Growease combo pack also includes seed starting soil, and this kit offers extra large cells.
  
  
• If you like classic trays and cells but want to avoid plastic, consider this awesome galvanized steel self-watering seed starting tray. It also has a wicking reservoir, is quite snazzy-looking, and should last forever! Pair it with these compostable wooden plant markers to complete the set.
  
  
• One of the most sustainable options is to avoid pots entirely and create your own soil blocks using a nifty soil block maker tool. However, you’ll still need a bottom tray to nest the soil blocks in, like these reusable heavy-duty 1020 trays.
  
  
• If you’re feeling crafty, you can make your own newspaper pots with the assistance of a paper pot maker. Even though newspaper is biodegradable, I suggest to gently peel away the pot (compost it) or at least tear off the bottom before transplanting the seedlings outdoors. If planted, paper often degrades more slowly than plant roots grow, leaving them restricted and root-bound. The same applies to any pre-made “plantable” biodegradable pots. 

QUICK TIP: No matter which pots or trays you choose, it’s helpful to keep them covered with a reusable humidity dome or clear plastic after planting seeds. This prevents the soil and seeds from drying out, and aids in rapid germination. However, it’s very important to remove the cover as soon as the seeds sprout!

3) Grow Lights

From the moment they sprout, seedlings need ample bright direct light to thrive. Without it, they grow undesirably tall, weak and floppy (also known as getting “leggy”) as they stretch out in search of better light. Unfortunately, ambient light from a sunny window is generally not strong enough to grow healthy, compact seedlings indoors, especially during the shorter days of winter. Yet that’s where grow lights come in to save the day! 

For the best results, keep grow lights on over seedlings for about 14 to 16 hours per day. An outlet light timer really comes in handy here! It’s also best to keep the lights low over the seedlings, hung just a few inches above them and then raise the light as the plants grow. (Some LED lights require more clearance, so check the manufacturer’s recommendations.)

Grow light options

Like other seed starting supplies, grow lights come in a wide array of shapes and sizes to suit different gardeners’ needs – ranging from single light fixtures to specialized multi-tier shelving units with built-in grow lights. Here are several great options to consider:

• An LED Tabletop light is perfect for starting a modest amount of seedlings on a table in your garage, basement, or other spare space. The light is suspended from a durable, adjustable frame that allows you to easily raise the lights as the seedlings grow.
  
  
• A 2 or 3-Tier Sunlite Garden provides space to grow a generous amount of seedlings on a dedicated shelving unit, equipped with high-quality adjustable grow lights. They come with a choice of standard fluorescent lights, efficient LED lights, or high-intensity LED lights that offer 50% more light. This is what we use! See all Sunlite Garden sizes and styles here.
  
  
• Gardener’s Stack-n-Grow light system is a fantastic way to start small, and then add more grow lights as your indoor seed starting adventures expand in the future! The base has two 3-foot T9 fluorescent lights, and then you can simply stack more tiers on top as needed. It also comes in an LED version. 
  
  
• Do you already have a shelf, or just need a light? Consider this classic four-tube T9 light fixture paired with an adjustable pulley to hang it. Or, these compact high-output LED magnetic lights that will easily stick to the underside of a metal shelf or similar. 

Check out all of the awesome grow light options from Gardener’s Supply Company here.

4) A Heat Mat

For fast and even germination, most seeds prefer soil temperatures around 70-75°F to sprout. Warm soil also encourages speedy root growth! Seedling heat mats are specifically designed to keep soil in the ideal temperature range. They come in a variety of sizes, and are very helpful when starting seeds indoors, in a garage, or even in a greenhouse – especially during cooler times of year. 

5) A Watering Can 

Before seeds sprout, it’s great to use a spray bottle to keep the top of the soil moist. However, once they do sprout, it’s best to switch to bottom-watering. (That’s when you pour water into the tray below the seedlings, and the soil drinks it up from the bottom.) A watering can with a long narrow spout like this makes bottom-watering a breeze.

Bottom-watering seedlings offers many benefits. It encourages roots to grow deep into the soil, keeps the soil more evenly moist, and reduces the risk of damping off or disturbing seedlings. It also reduces the likelihood that you’ll overwater! Just be sure to only add so much water that the soil can completely soak up within a few hours.

6) A Fan for Airflow

Good airflow is key for growing healthy seedlings. It helps prevent damping off, a fungal disease that results in sudden seedling death. As they wiggle in the gentle breeze, air circulation also makes seedling stems grow stronger and therefore reduces the risk of damage or shock once transplanted outdoors (part of the important hardening off process). 

So, plan to have a fan nearby! We have a large standing oscillating fan in our grow room, but this handy 6” clip-on fan is perfect for smaller spaces. Keep the airflow directed near the seedlings, but not so direct or strong that it causes them to bend over.

7) Gentle Fertilizer

The last item on this list of useful indoor seed starting supplies is fertilizer. However, seedlings don’t need fertilizer right after they sprout. In fact, it can actually harm or stunt them if used too early! But as they get larger, seedlings will greatly appreciate added nutritional support in the form of a mild fertilizer – especially if it will still be a number of weeks until they’re transplanted outside. 

Dilute fish fertilizer or seaweed extract are excellent gentle choices for seedlings. I recommend mixing the fertilizer concentrate with water and then pouring it in the tray below the seedlings to soak up, just like bottom-watering. Wait to start fertilizing seedlings until they’ve grown a couple sets of true leaves, or at least 3 weeks after germination or older. Follow the manufacturer recommendations in regards to amount, or even err on the lighter side. We also like to make homemade aloe vera fertilizer for seedlings as a special treat. 

And that concludes this list of must-have indoor seed starting supplies.

Growing your own food from seed is an incredibly rewarding and exciting thing to do. There are so many awesome varieties and options out there! I hope this guide helps you feel more prepared to grow along – with the right tools to succeed! Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this information to be useful, please consider sharing or pinning this post. Thank you for tuning in today, and happy seed starting!

You may also like:

• Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors
• When to Start Seeds: Garden Planting Calendars for Every Zone
• 12 Places to Buy Organic, Heirloom and Non-GMO Garden Seeds
• Seed Storage: The Best Way to Store & Organize Garden Seeds
• Transplanting Seedlings Outside: Tips for Success
• See our full collection of helpful seed starting articles here

The post 7 Useful Seed Starting Supplies for Success Indoors appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

What is a seed germination test?

A seed germination test is used to measure seed viability. It’s a great way to use a small sample of seeds to check how likely the rest are to sprout and grow. For example, if you have 50 seeds left in a packet, you can perform a seed germination test with just 10 of them, and then have the rest left to plant if they’re still viable. Yet if the test shows poor germination results, the grower likely won’t bother planting them. 

The results of the test also determines the seed germination rate as a percentage. Use this calculation to determine seed germination rate:

(Number of seeds sprouted X 100) / Total number of seeds tested = Germination rate %

Why perform a seed germination test?

There are a few reasons you may want to perform a seed germination test:

• Seed companies test every batch of new seeds they sell to ensure they’re providing good viable seeds to their consumers. Many companies also include the expected seed germination rate listed on the package.
• If you saved seeds from your own garden, you may want to test the new seeds to see how well they’ll sprout – especially before planting them outside, or sharing them with friends!
• As old seeds age, they become less viable (less able to sprout). Some seeds have a shelf life of just a year or two, while others stay good for 5 years or longer. Performing a simple seed germination test is a great way to see if your old seeds are still worth planting, or if it’s time to buy some new seeds.

Different methods of testing seed germination

The two most common types of seed germination tests are done either by 1) planting several seeds in a small pot of soil (similar to how you’d start veggie seedlings indoors) or 2) placing seeds between a damp paper towel or specialized germination paper, then tucked inside a ziplock bag. 

The paper towel seed germination test is usually considered more accurate since you can easily see each seed and spot the sprouting activity sooner. When planted in soil, there is more room for error. Seeds will sprout below the surface before you can see them, take longer to emerge, and some may never come up at all. Other factors like seed depth or using an overly dense, wet or dry soil medium can lead to spotty germination – ultimately swaying the test results. 

Moisture matters most

No matter which method you use, the key to a successful seed germination test is to keep the seeds consistently and lightly damp. Not too wet, and not too dry. Seeds also need air to survive and thrive. Dry seeds won’t sprout, but overly wet, soggy seeds without air will rot and die. They literally suffocate and drown! That said, it’s important to keep the ziplock bag unsealed or open at the end to allow some airflow.

I’ve had unsuccessful seed germination tests when I placed the paper towel inside a tupperware-type container (in an effort to not use a plastic bag). With the lid cracked open, the paper towel dried out often and quickly. But with the lid on, it stayed too wet and the seeds didn’t get enough air.

How many seeds to test?

The more seeds you include in your seed germination test, the more accurate the test results will be. Professional growers and seed companies test hundreds of seeds (if not thousands) to get the most accurate results possible. Yet that isn’t feasible or necessary for us hobby gardeners! Use as many seeds as you can spare – still leaving plenty to plant if the test shows the seeds are viable. 10 to 20 seeds is plenty for the average at-home seed germination test. 

How to Conduct a Seed Germination Test

Supplies Needed

• Paper towels
• Seeds
• Ziplock bag or similar
• Water (spray bottle recommended)

Instructions

1. If you’re testing more than one seed variety, plan to label each test as needed. In an effort to reduce plastic use, I put several paper towels stacked together inside one ziplock bag, so I labeled each towel with a sharpie.
   

2. Pre-moisten the paper towel. I use a spray bottle to evenly and lightly dampen the towel. If you run it under water instead, squeeze out excess water so it’s not dripping or sopping wet. (If you’re using a spray bottle, you can put seeds on the towel first and then spray it after – either way is fine.)
   

3. Place at least 10 seeds on one half of the towel. Try to keep them spaced enough to observe their sprouting activity. 
   

4. Fold the paper towel in half over the seeds. Lightly press down so the damp paper towel is in contact with all of the seeds. Spritz again if needed.
   

5. Place the damp paper towel and seeds inside a ziplock bag, but leave the bag unsealed.
   

6. Keep the seeds in a moderately warm location (not hot). 65 to 75°F is ideal for rapid and even germination for most seeds. Some cool-season crops will not sprout in temperatures 80°F or greater, including lettuce and spinach. Lettuce also requires light to sprout; keeping the ziplock bag out in ambient light is sufficient.
   

7. Over the next few days, monitor the moisture level inside the bag. Use a spray bottle to mist the towel with more water only if it starts to dry out.
   
   
8. Under ideal conditions, most types of seeds should germinate within about a week (if not sooner) though some may take longer. For instance, eggplant seeds can take up two weeks and artichokes up to three weeks to germinate.
   
   
9. Once the majority of your seeds have germinated (and you’ve waited a few extra days for any late bloomers to sprout too), it’s time to take a count! Use the calculation I provided above, but the math is pretty simple. If 7 out of 10 seeds sprouted, your germination rate is 70%. I’d feel confident in planting those!

No sprouts?

If you’ve waited an appropriate length of time (e.g. two weeks or longer) and no seeds have sprouted, either seeds are not viable or something may have gone wrong with your seed germination test. Perhaps it was too wet, too cold, or the seeds were just too old. That is one reason I usually like to test a few different types and ages of seeds at the same time. As long as some sprout, that tells me my test was done correctly and gives me a “control” to compare against.

Can I plant the sprouts from a seed germination test?

Yes, you can plant the seeds that have sprouted after your seed germination test. In fact, some people use the paper towel method exactly for that purpose: to pre-sprout seeds for planting, not to test them! However, I recommend doing so when the sprouts are still very short and small. Long seedlings are more tricky to transplant successfully because they’re already undesirably leggy, but will be more prone to damping off (dying) if planted too deeply. Gently place the seed on the soil surface and gently cover it (including the base of the sprout) leaving the top leaves exposed above the soil.

And that is how to do a simple seed germination test!

Easy peasy, right? If you found this guide to be useful, please consider pinning or sharing this post. Also feel free to ask any questions in the comments below. Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy sprouting!

Don’t miss these related articles:

• 12 Places to Buy Organic, Heirloom and Non-GMO Garden Seeds
• Seed Viability Chart: How Long Do Old Seeds Last?
• Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors
• 9 Common Seed Starting Mistakes to Avoid
• When to Start Seeds: Planting Calendars for Every Growing Zone
• Using Grow Lights for Seed Starting or Indoor Plants

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Seed Germination Test: Easy Paper Towel Method

Do you have old seeds, and are wondering if they’ll still grow? Or perhaps you’d like to check the success of your seed-saving efforts? Come learn how to do an easy seed germination test to measure seed viability!

Keyword seed germination paper towel, seed germination test, seed viability test

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Sprouting time 10 days days

Equipment

• paper towels
• plastic ziplock bag
• spray bottle (recommended)

Ingredients

• seeds
• water

Instructions

• If you’re testing more than one seed variety, plan to label each test as needed.
• Pre-moisten the paper towel. I use a spray bottle to evenly and lightly dampen the towel. If you run it under water instead, squeeze out excess water so it’s not dripping or sopping wet.
• Place at least 10 seeds on one half of the towel. Try to keep them spaced enough to observe their sprouting activity. 
• Fold the paper towel in half over the seeds. Lightly press down so the damp paper towel is in contact with all of the seeds. Spritz again if needed.
• Place the damp paper towel and seeds inside a ziplock bag, but leave the bag unsealed.
• Keep the seeds in a moderately warm location (not hot). 65 to 75°F is ideal for rapid and even germination for most seeds.
• Over the next few days, monitor the moisture level inside the bag. Use a spray bottle to mist the towel with more water only if it starts to dry out.
• Under ideal conditions, most types of seeds should germinate within about a week (if not sooner) though some may take longer.
• Once the majority of your seeds have germinated (and you’ve waited a few extra days for any late bloomers to sprout too), it’s time to take a count! 
• Germination rate % = (number of seeds sprouted x 100) / total seeds tested

The post How to Test Seed Germination: Easy Paper Towel Method appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Several factors influence seed shelf life and viability, including the type of plant, if the seeds are pelleted or treated, and how the seeds are stored. This article will briefly explore each of these factors, along with frequently asked questions about using old seeds. I’ve also included a handy seed viability chart that shows the average shelf life of dozens of vegetable, herb, and flower seeds for easy reference! 

Are you in the market for new seeds? Check out High Mowing Organic Seeds. They’re a fantastic small company with a huge selection of high-quality organic seeds. That’s where we source 99% of our seeds these days!   

Do seeds have expiration dates?

Seeds do eventually lose their vigor and “expire”, but don’t often have an exact expiration date on the package. Rather, most seed packages include a sell by or packed for date – such as “packed for 2021”. That date simply represents the year that the seed company packaged and sold the seeds, not the year they need to be used by. Refer to the seed viability chart below to help determine their expected shelf life.

The first year sold, seeds will be at their utmost prime and will most closely follow the germination rate listed by the seed company (if one was provided). The germination rate signifies how many of the seeds successfully sprouted during trials by the seed company, and is usually expressed in a percentage (e.g. 85%). 

How long do seeds last? Will old seeds still sprout (germinate)?

Seed viability depends on the type of seed, and just how old they are. Some old seeds will stay good and germinate for up to 5 years or longer, while others are only viable for a year or two. On average, old seeds will still sprout for about three to four years after their “packed for” date – especially if they’re stored in ideal conditions. Keep reading to learn more about seed viability by plant type and seed storage tips below.

As seeds age, their germination rate will decline. Meaning, fewer seeds will sprout compared to when they’re fresh and new. To compensate, we always sow a few extra seeds beyond normal when planting old ones. If you want to know if old seeds will sprout before planting them, you can perform a simple seed germination test. Learn how to test seed germination here.

Seed Viability Chart (shelf life by plant type)

The shelf life of old seeds varies greatly depending on the type of plant. Refer to the seed viability chart below to see the average shelf life of many popular vegetable, herb and flower seeds. 

Certain vegetable seeds are notoriously short-lived (will only sprout for a couple years), such as onions, leeks, parsnips and spinach. Use those seeds up quickly, and plan to replenish your supply every couple of years! On the other hand, tomatoes, cucumbers, and many brassica seeds can stay good and germinate for up to 5 years or longer.

Similarly, most annual flower seeds are viable for about 1 to 3 years, while perennial flower seeds are usually good for 2 to 4 years. Yet there are always some rule-breakers in the bunch! For example, calendula is an annual flower (and one of my personal favorites) but it’s seeds can last up to 6 years or longer. Sunflower seeds also have a long shelf life.

Seed storage conditions and seed viability

How seeds are stored also greatly influences their shelf life. Ideally, seeds should be stored in dry, dark, and cool conditions to help seeds last as long as possible. Below 40% humidity is best. Warm humid conditions are the worst for seed storage. If seeds are exposed to moisture and become damp in storage, they may partially sprout or mold – effectively killing them. 

Therefore, it’s especially important for folks in humid climates to store seeds in an airtight container, such as glass jars with tight-fitting lids. It may even be worthwhile to use silica desiccant packets inside the container if moisture intrusion becomes an issue. Some gardeners store their seeds in the refrigerator or freezer, though that becomes tricky for those of us with large seed collections!

We store our seeds in these handy storage cases, tucked inside a dark cool closet. With individual compartments and a sturdy handle, the containers serve multiple purposes: they keep our seeds dry, organized, easy to find and use! I can take the whole container out to the garden with me, or grab just the few small cases of the seeds I need. It also makes taking inventory for seed shopping a breeze. I absolutely LOVE this system!

Pelleted seeds shelf life

Pelleted seeds come with a white round biodegradable coating over the seed. They offer many benefits: they’re easier to handle and evenly space, and germinate better and faster. Pelleted seeds are especially handy for tiny seeds or those that are often surface-sown (and therefore prone to drying out) like carrots and lettuce. 

Yet pelleted seeds have one major drawback: they have a significantly shorter shelf life than regular untreated seeds. So much so, most seed companies recommend using pelleted seeds within one year for successful sprouting. 

Do old seeds grow weaker plants?

Yes, old seeds may produce less vigorous plants. Seeds that are just a couple years old should still grow to become perfectly robust plants, but as seeds get really old, both the germination rate and plant vigor can decline. Meaning, even if old seeds sprout, the resulting seedlings may grow more slowly or spindly, and plants that reach maturity may be less productive or yield less fruit. So if you’re ever gardening with old seeds and experience lackluster results, it might be time to get some new seeds!

What to do with old seeds?

Once you’ve decided to get rid of old seeds rather than try to grow them, you can simply compost them. Or, if you have backyard chickens like we do, sprout the seeds as a healthy chicken treat! Did you know that sprouts and microgreens are exponentially more nutrient-dense than the mature plants they’ll grow into? The process involves soaking a lot of seeds in a jar of water, so it doesn’t really matter if they all sprout or not. The chickens can eat the un-sprouted ones too. Learn how to make sprouted seeds for chickens here, including what types of seeds are safe to feed them.

And that’s the 4-1-1 on seed viability and planting old seeds.

I hope this answers all the questions you had about those old seeds you’ve been saving! Thankfully, you should be able to use them for a few years to come. Now don’t get me wrong, I love shopping for new seeds just as much as the next gardener… But considering most seed packets come with enough seeds to last the average home gardener many years, it’d be a shame (and quite wasteful) if those seeds were only good for one season! What are the oldest seeds you’ve ever successfully grown?

You may also like:

• 12 Places to Buy Organic, Heirloom and Non-GMO Garden Seeds
• Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors
• 9 Common Seed Starting Mistakes to Avoid
• When to Start Seed: Planting Calendars for Every Growing Zone
• Using Grow Lights for Seed Starting or Indoor Plants
• Why and How to Grow Microgreens At Home

The post Seed Viability Chart: How Long Do Old Seeds Last? appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Have you ever had a green substance grow on top of your seedling soil, and wondered “what’s up with that?” Well, you’re not alone! Our seed starting soil sometimes gets a little green tint too. Then folks always ask about it when they see our seedlings on Instagram, which is actually what inspired me to write this post. So, let’s do a quick Q&A about what that green stuff is, if it’s bad for your seedlings or not, and how to prevent or fix it! We’ll also talk about white mold on seedling soil.

What is the green stuff on top of my seedling soil?

It is mostly likely some sort of algae or moss growth, not mold. Algae appears as green residue or mossy-looking film. Mold will look more fuzzy, raised, lacy, and usually white, yellowish or gray in color. Algae is more closely related to plants, and requires sunlight or bright light to grow. On the other hand, mold is a fungi. It doesn’t need light to grow but does like moisture and organic matter. 

What causes white mold or green algae on seedling soil?

Excess water, light exposure, poor air circulation, and/or humidity causes green algae on top of seedling soil.  I suspect that the presence of peat moss in most seed starting mediums has something to do with it as well. 

Algae growth occurs most often indoors or in greenhouse conditions. It’s especially common when the seedlings are very small, since the soil has more exposed surface area for light to reach. As your seedlings grow larger, shade out the soil, soak up water more quickly, and their roots begin to dominate the soil medium, the algae growth will usually fade away on its own. That’s what ours usually does!

Algae growth on seedling soil is a fairly common and natural occurrence, while mold may indicate your soil is contaminated or especially excessively wet. Using random soil to start seeds (e.g. soil from your yard, rather than a sterile bagged seed-starting mix) may lead to mold growth. 

Is mold or algae bad for my seedlings?

Green algae or moss on the soil surface is generally not harmful to seedlings. Some sources say the presence of algae on the top of soil reduces important gas exchanges across the soil surface, and therefore may hinder the plant’s root growth. However, our seedling soil almost always gets a little algae – and our seedlings grow PLENTY big and strong! So as long as your seedlings look otherwise healthy and are growing well, I say don’t worry about it too much. 

In contrast, mold may be detrimental to seedlings. Mold on seedling soil indicates the presence of fungus. Not all fungus is bad, though some can lead to damping off: a condition where seedlings suddenly wilt and die (usually caused by fungal disease). It’s also bad to eat mold, and is especially concerning for seedlings you consume young and raw – such as microgreens.

8 Ways to Prevent Mold and Algae on Seedling Soil

Follow the tips below to prevent algae and mold growth in your seedling soil. Yet keep in mind that a little algae isn’t the end of the world! No matter our efforts to follow seed-starting best practices, we almost always end up with some. 

1. Avoid overwatering. Seedlings like damp conditions, but not constantly soggy soil. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between watering. 
   
   
2. Remove humidity domes right after seedlings sprout.
   
   
3. Use a fresh, sterile, bagged seed-starting soil or medium to grow seedlings. This is especially important to prevent mold. 
   
   
4. Water from below. Rather than spraying water from the top, pour water in a tray below your seedling containers. The soil will soak up as much as it needs through the drainage holes in the bottom of the containers. Only give them as much water as they can soak up within a few hours. Don’t let excess standing water sit. Start with just half an inch or two. (This also promotes deeper, stronger root growth. It’s the ONLY way we water seedlings after they sprout!) 
   
   
5. Use an oscillating fan nearby to introduce good airflow and dry out the soil surface. The gentle wiggling of the plants also helps to strengthen their stems and is a great way to jump start the hardening off process. 
   
   
6. Reduce heat. Seedling heat mats are a wonderful tool to use during seedling germination. They help expedite the sprouting process immensely! However, warm soil can also promote mold and algae growth. So, turn down or remove the heat mats after your seeds sprout.
   
   
7. Boost seedling growth by feeding them with a dilute seaweed extract (once they’re at least several weeks old). In addition to helping them overcome any delays the algae or mold may cause, robust large seedlings also leave less room for the “bad guys” to thrive.
   
   
8. Sanitize seed starting pots, trays and other supplies between uses or seasons – especially if mold has been an issue. Dilute bleach will kill fungi spores. Or, check out how we effectively sanitize our seedling supplies without bleach here.
   

As you can see, it’s a bit of a balancing act! For instance, reducing light is another “recommendation” I’ve seen to help reduce algae growth… but seedlings need light. Lots of light! In fact, seedlings thrive when provided at least 12 hours of very bright light (14 to 16 hours is even better). Too little light can easily lead to weak, leggy seedlings. So in that case, it’s clearly more important to provide ample light than to turn it down just to prevent algae.

 Learn more about using grow lights for seedlings in this post. 

How to get rid of algae or mold on seedling soil

If you’ve already followed all the preventative tips above and are still seeing some mold or algae on your seedling soil, you can try to physically remove it if you wish. As we’ve established, you don’t necessarily need to worry about about algae – as long as your seedlings are healthy and growing! Yet if they seem to be struggling or the algae is especially thick and aggressive, go ahead and remove it.

Use an old butter knife, popsicle stick, or a similar firm, flat tool to gently scrape the algae off the soil surface. Don’t dig too deep and disrupt the roots! If needed, add a sprinkle of fresh seedling soil to replace the bit you removed from the top. Or, if the seedlings are about ready to be potted up, you can try to carefully remove the green algae during that process.

Mold is another story… The spores are likely spread throughout the soil, not just on top. You can still try to scrape it off, but advanced cases are more likely to come back. Like algae, a little bit may not be anything to stress over. Though if seedlings start dying (damping off) from mold, I recommend to start over with fresh seedling oil. Be sure to thoroughly sanitize your seedling containers between uses to kill any lingering fungal spores too!

One final option to get rid of mold on seedling soil is to utilize an organic fungicide spray.

I hope that answers all your questions!

In summary, mold and algae are fairly common on seedling soil, but mold is the more risky of the two. Both can usually be controlled with good airflow, reducing water, using fresh seedling soil, and other easy measures. If you’re experiencing algae on your seedlings right now, I hope it makes you feel a little better that us experienced gardeners get it too! Please let us know if you have any additional questions or tips in the comments below. Also, please consider pinning or sharing this article if you found it useful. Thanks for stopping by!

You may enjoy these related posts:

• Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors
• 12 Places to Buy Organic, Heirloom, and Non-GMO Garden Seeds
• Using Grow Lights for Seedlings and Indoor Plants
• How & Why to Feed Seedlings with Seaweed Extract
• Top 9 Common Seed Starting Mistakes to Avoid
• Hardening Off Seedlings to Prevent Transplant Shock

The post How to Prevent Green Algae or White Mold on Seedling Soil appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

With the psychedelic artwork and the term “grow room” being tossed around, I know what you’re probably thinking… cannabis, right? Well sure, maybe we’ll grow some of that magical plant in here eventually, but for now, this space will be the absolutely perfect seed-starting room for our vegetable, flower, and herb seedlings. Especially once we’re done giving it a little makeover! 

Follow along to see the transformation of how we spiffed up an existing outbuilding and converted it to a functional space to raise seedlings for our garden. I’ll share a few tips and thoughts about indoor seed-starting along the way too! Check out our “Seed Starting 101” guide for more in-depth information.

The Backstory 

The small barn that houses the new grow room has a couple sections to it. First, you enter an open workshop/storage area with a few old tables and shelves. We plan to clean up that space soon as well – it’ll be the perfect spot to keep a table saw or things like that! Then to the left is the enclosed grow room area, which offers more protection from critters and the elements. Between the two areas is a hallway equipped with wall racks to hang shovels, pitchforks, tree trimming poles and other large tools. 

So, what’s up with all the groovy art? From what we can gather, our new grow room was formerly used as a teenager hangout. The previous homeowner’s daughter played electric guitar and also liked to paint. (At first we thought she’d done all the art in the room herself, but later realized the largest shroom mural is actually a screen print.) Along with the colorful walls, the room was decked out with a TV, an old tattered sofa, workbench, and quite the funky aroma… Lol. I guess we’ll just have to let our imaginations fill in the rest! 

Our Previous Seed Starting Set-Up

At our last urban homestead, we started seeds inside a 6×8’ hobby greenhouse. We left the greenhouse behind when we moved, but brought along our homemade redwood benches. A new larger greenhouse is likely in the future for this homestead, but not for at least a couple years down the road! You can learn more about using a hobby greenhouse in this guide, (including details about our old greenhouse in particular) and follow our step-by-step tutorial to build your own greenhouse potting benches or tables here too.

Now is a great time to remind you that you do NOT need a dedicated greenhouse, trip shed, or other separate space to grow food from seed! Before we had a greenhouse, we simply started seeds in our guest room – on a wire shelving rack with grow lights hung from the shelf above. Any free space where you can tuck a few seedling trays and a grow light will do, including a garage or basement.

In fact, there are a number of advantages to starting seeds indoors rather than in an outdoor structure! a) It’s less subject to temperature swings, and b) it’s easier to keep your eye on the seedlings. Our new grow room is a hop, skip and a jump from the house (maybe 100 feet?) so it’s still easily accessible for us to go check on our seedlings, but not nearly as “in your face” as having seedlings right in the house for easy tending – like hey you, remember to water me! 

Cleaning Up the Space

The first thing we tackled was clearing out all the old leftover stuff from the room. Then everything got a good sweeping and wipe-down. Next, we primed the raw plywood floor with 2 layers of Kilz, hoping to eliminate some of the bad odor. Once that dried, we applied a coat of quality exterior paint. We chose a dark, dusky grey-blue called “Charcoal Blue” by Behr in a satin finish. We figured that would hide dirt well and also be fairly easy to clean. For now, we decided to leave the walls mostly as-is. Maybe one day we’ll want to refine the space a bit more!

Later we also got a custom screen made up for the window by a local screen company, complete with durable 30-year pet mesh – so that we could safely keep the window open without letting pests or critters in. Good airflow is essential for seedlings, and this will hopefully help with the smell too!

Adding Seed-Starting Equipment 

To turn this space into a proper grow room, the most essential thing we needed to add was good bright light! Whether you’re starting seeds in a garage, shed, or guest room – grow lights are pretty much a “must have” for indoor seed-starting. Unfortunately, ambient sunlight from a nearby window is not usually strong enough, and will result in leggy weak seedlings. Even our old greenhouse needed grow lights during certain times of year since it didn’t receive full sun.  

To give our seedlings plenty of light (and space!), we added this awesome 3-Tier LED Sunlite shelf from Gardener’s Supply. We love it already, and so do the seedlings! It took about an hour to assemble, but went together very smoothly and has loads of useful features. The lights are operated independently so you can use just one shelf, two, or all three as needed. They’re suspended in a way that can be easily raised or lowered – which is great since it’s important to keep lights low, just a few inches above seedlings. Each shelf itself is a rimmed tray that catches water drainage, and you can set seedling containers right inside (without needing an additional tray) and still bottom-water too. 

In the market for grow lights? Pop over to this article! It covers information and frequently asked questions about choosing AND using grow lights, including some of our top light recommendations. In addition to the Sunlite shelf shown in this article, Gardener’s Supply offers many other grow light units too.

Last but not least, we also brought in one of our old greenhouse benches and other various seed-starting supplies: 1020 trays and pots, seedling heat mats, an oscillating fan, a light timer, and our favorite handheld pump sprayer.

Starting Fall 2021 Seeds

Since our new homestead only has 3 raised garden beds at the moment, we scaled way back from our normal fall seed starting routine. (Our old homestead had 15 raised beds!) We’d usually be starting all sorts of brassicas like cabbage, broccoli, romanesco, and cauliflower and also direct-sow seeds for carrots, radishes, and beets. Check out tips on starting a fall garden here, including a full list of our favorite cool-season veggies to grow! If you’re pressed for time with a short growing season, be sure to try these 13 fast-growing fall crops.

Our current space limitations forced us to pick favorites, so we’re focusing on growing our go-to cut-and come-again leafy greens this fall: Joi Choi bok choy, a few varieties of mustard greens and kale, lettuce, and arugula. Rather than a one-and-done crop like cabbage, leafy greens are ideal for perpetual harvesting. Each plant will feed us virtually non-stop for many months to come! Here, they’re keep producing right through the winter and into the spring.

After sowing seeds in our new grow room, we kept the seedling trays on a bench on top of a heat mat. The vast majority of seeds* do not need light to sprout; steady warmth is what helps them germinate. Then once they did sprout (in just a couple days!), we immediately relocated them to the new Sunlite LED light shelf. Note that seedlings will get leggy FAST in the absence of light. So, if you think you may miss the moment they sprout, it’s best to keep them under a light from the start.

*One caveat is lettuce. Lettuce seeds DO need light to germinate, and also prefer cooler soil. So, we put the tray of lettuce seeds on the grow light shelf immediately after sowing – skipping the heat mat.

And that’s the story of our new grow room.

I’m happy to see and say that only days after its makeover, our new grow room is already home to dozens of new happy baby seedlings! Growing your own food from seed is incredibly rewarding, and therapeutic; it felt wonderful to start that process for the first time at our new place. I am already excited for next spring, when this room will hopefully be filled with quadruple the seedlings. We plan to break ground on our new expanded garden space this fall to have it up and running by spring. Stay tuned for that huge undertaking! Thanks so much for stopping by and following this project with us. I hope you picked up a few new helpful tips along the way!

Want to grow along? Check out these articles:

• Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors 
• Beginner’s Guide to Using a Hobby Greenhouse
• 9 Common Seed Starting Mistakes to Avoid
• How to Design & Build a Raised Garden Bed
• Using Grow Lights for Seedlings and Indoor Plants
• When to Start Seeds: Garden Planting Calendars for Every Zone

The post Homestead Update: Our New Grow Room Makeover appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Read along to learn when and how to transplant seedlings outside into your garden. We’ll cover how to properly prepare seedlings to be transplanted, steps for planting day, and follow-up care. The process is generally quite straightforward and simple, yet I have several tips to share to help prevent transplant shock – and grow the most healthy and productive plants possible! These tips can be applied to any type of vegetable, herb or flower seedlings that you started from seed, or those you purchased at your local nursery.

At a Glance

This article will cover:

• How to harden off seedlings
• The best time to transplant
• Tips to amend soil
• Best spacing and planting practices
• Benefits of worm castings and mycorrhizae
• Water and mulching tips
• More ways to prevent transplant shock
• How to protect seedlings from pests or harsh weather

BEFORE TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS OUTSIDE

Harden off seedlings

A very important step prior to transplanting seedlings outside is to ensure they’ve gone through a process called “hardening off”. Hardening off is when indoor-raised seedlings are gradually exposed to a wider variety of elements than they’ve otherwise received while protected indoors, such as direct sunlight, cooler temperatures, and wind. The process prepares them for the transition to the great outdoors, and greatly reduces the risk of transplant shock or injury during inclimate weather. (Heads up: store-bought seedlings have already been hardened off for you!)

Start hardening off your seedlings about a week prior to transplanting outside. Begin by bringing the seedlings outdoors (on a calm and mild day) for just a few hours at a time and in a mostly shady location at first. Then over the course of the week, gradually increase the time and direct sunlight they receive. By the end of the week, they should be sufficiently hardened off! However, we start strengthening our seedlings far earlier than a week before transplant day. For instance, the movement created by an oscillating fan nearby (used indoors just a couple weeks after sprouting) helps their stems become nice and strong. We also turn their heat mats down and then off a couple weeks earlier. 

Related: Learn more step-by-step details about hardening off here, and all our of top indoor seed-starting tips here.

When to transplant seedlings outside? Know your zone

Before transplanting seedlings outdoors, it is important to familiarize yourself with your area’s frost dates and ideal planting times. Young seedlings are particularly susceptible to frost damage or even death (including plants that will grow up to be quite cold-hardy once they mature). Even if there is little-to-no risk of frost, transplanting seedlings too early can make them unhappy and more prone to stalling, stunting, or disease. For example, our area is virtually frost-free… but that doesn’t mean we should plant tomatoes outside in February! 

Therefore, plan to transplant seedlings outside at a time that is appropriate both for the plants and your zone. I realize that sounds a bit ambiguous, so check out our Homestead and Chill planting calendars for an easy visual guide! We’ve prepared calendars that illustrate the ideal time to start seeds indoors or out, and when to transplant seedlings outside – for dozens of vegetables and every USDA hardiness zone.

Check the weather forecast

When the target transplant day comes, check your local weather forecast. Avoid transplanting seedlings outside if there is any stormy or extreme weather predicted in the coming days ahead. Check at least 5 to 7 days out for frost, heat waves, high wind, heavy rain, hail, or similar. Even if you’ve already hardened off your seedlings and are otherwise ready to go, it’s best to wait until more favorable conditions are on the horizon. If possible, choose a nice calm, temperate day to transplant seedlings outside. 

Amend or fertilize your soil

Finally, prepare your garden soil before you transplant seedlings outside. Plants need ample and diverse nutrients to successfully grow and produce. As they grow, they use up existing nutrients within the soil, which can leave it relatively depleted at the end of each growing season. So, it is important to replenish nutrients by amending your garden bed soil between crops or seasons. 

In our no-till style garden, we prefer to use natural, mild, slow-release fertilizers like alfalfa meal, kelp meal, and neem meal – OR something all-in-one, like this organic all-purpose fertilizer. All of these dry fertilizers are sprinkled over the soil, lightly scratched into the surface, and watered in. Additionally, we amend the soil with plenty of aged compost! Learn more about our soil amendment routine in this article. 

In preparation for transplant day, it’s best to fertilize soil a week or so in advance (if using dry, meal-type fertilizers). Water it in a couple times to allow the fertilizer to become incorporated into the soil. This helps everything mellow out and prevents ‘burning’ the seedlings. However, we often add fertilizer to our garden soil the same day we transplant seedlings outside! With busy schedules, we can’t always follow best practices. However, we go lighter than the package recommendations to ensure nutrient burn won’t be an issue.  

After that, it’s go time!

HOW TO TRANSPLANT SEEDLINGS

How far should I space my seedlings?

Follow the general spacing recommendations for the particular types of plants and varieties you are growing. When plants are overcrowded, they will compete for root space, nutrients, sunlight, and airflow. Crowded plants are also more prone to disease. I’ll admit that I sometimes push the suggested limits a tad, but do my best to give everyone the space they deserve and need. You can also fudge the spacing recommendations a bit by planting seedlings in offset rows, as opposed to a perfectly straight line. Also remember that even if a garden bed full of baby seedlings looks sparse, it WILL fill in.

General plant spacing recommendations:

• Space large bushy plants like tomatoes, summer squash, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage at least 18 to 24 inches apart.
• Smaller plants such as peppers, eggplant, bush beans, kale and other leafy greens can be planted slightly closer together – around 12 to 18 inches, depending on variety.
• Root crops like radishes, carrots, turnips, or garlic grow only inches apart – yet those are all best to direct-sow and thin in place, rather than transplant. 
• If you haven’t already, thin each seedling down to only one plant per space.

Related: Visit the in-depth grow guides for tomatoes, cauliflower, summer squash, carrots, radishes, kale, green beans, or garlic by clicking on their name here.

Where to plant what

The majority of common vegetables, flowers and herbs prefer full sun – or as much as you can give them! This is especially true for heat-loving summer crops like peppers, tomatoes, corn, squash, beans, cucumbers, and more. Most cool-season crops like leafy greens, radishes, cauliflower, fava beans, green onions, or peas can tolerate partial shade, but may also grow less prolifically.

Also be mindful of the height plants may reach as they mature in relation to your gardens sun exposure. Avoid planting tall crops like tomatoes in a spot that would eventually shade out the shorter plants around them. Here in the northern hemisphere, we keep our tallest plants and trellises along the east and northern sides of our garden beds to maximize the southern sun exposure the rest of the bed receives.

Finally, if you’re wondering “what plants should I plant together?” – that’s a great question, and a subject all of it’s own! Intermixing various plants creates a beautiful aesthetic, and may also provide added benefits like natural pest control. On the other hand, some types of plants don’t particularly care for one another – like peppers and beans. Please visit our Companion Planting 101 article to learn more. It includes a free printable companion planting chart too!

Create Planting Holes

Dig a hole about the same size as the seedling root ball (or just larger). If the seedlings have become leggy (tall and stretched out) and you want to bury a portion of the stem, make the planting hole a tad deeper. Tomatoes, tomatillos, peppers, kale, and other brassicas like cabbage, collard greens, or broccoli do not mind their stems being buried a little. That is, as long as the seedlings aren’t super young and tender, and they have been properly hardened off! Otherwise, tiny tender stems have an increased risk of rotting below the soil line. Read more about preventing, fixing, and planting leggy seedlings here. 

Optional: worm castings and/or mycorrhizae

Now, you could plant the seedling as-is. However, we like to spoil our transplants and give them a little extra boost of nutrition and love! First, we mix a small handful of worm castings to the bottom of every planting hole. Worm castings, also known as ‘black gold’, are a wonderful microbially-active fertilizer; gentle but potent. The organic matter in worm castings also improves soil structure to increase moisture retention and aeration. We use worm castings from our compost worm bin, but you can also buy them.  

In addition, I also highly recommend inoculating the planting hole with mycorrhizae.  Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungi that help increase nutrient uptake, root growth, fruit production, and disease-resistance! It can also prevent transplant shock. Mycorrhizae is most beneficial for plants that produce flowers and fruit (tomatoes, peppers, cannabis, squash, eggplant, fruit trees, etc) and it doesn’t make strong associations with the roots of brassicas like cabbage or kale.

Because mycorrhizae need to bind to the plant root system to survive, sprinkle granular mycorrhizae either directly on the root ball itself, or along the inner walls of the planting hole that will soon come in contact with the roots. A little goes a long way! (Follow the instructions on your package.) Don’t have any on hand come transplant day? You can also use a water-soluble mycorrhizae to water the seedlings after planting!

Related: Vermicomposting 101: How to Make and Maintain a Simple Worm Compost Bin

Plant the seedlings

Gently remove the seedling from its container, but avoid pulling on the stem itself. Instead, carefully tip the seedling container on its side and lightly push up from the bottom and/or squeeze the sides of the container to ease the root ball out. Avoid ruffling the roots unless they’re clearly root bound and winding around each other. In that case, gently loosen the roots before planting the seedling.

Place the seedling in the planting hole. Adjust the depth as needed so that the existing root ball will be level or just below the soil surface.

For extra leggy seedlings, it’s okay to bury them up to their first set of branches or leaves, but usually no more than a couple inches deep. An exception is tomatoes. Tomato seedlings (and tomatillos) are known for their tendency to grow fresh roots off of buried stems, so go ahead and plant those suckers up to 6 inches deep if needed. Remove lower side branches that would end up below the soil first. I’ve heard conflicting things about whether or not squash, eggplant, and cucumber seedlings like their stems buried, so play it safe and bury them minimally or not at all. 

Once the seedling root ball is settled in it’s planting hole, gently pack soil around it to fill the hole. Be sure to get around the sides, not leaving any voids. However, don’t press down too firmly and compact the soil! Looser soil is better at absorbing water, and also draining away excess standing water.

Related:

• Growing Organic Tomatoes: How to Plant, Feed, Prune, & Grow Tomato Plants
• How to Prevent and Fix Leggy Seedlings

AFTER TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS OUTSIDE

Water

Once your seedlings are tucked away in their new bed, give them a good water! In the coming weeks, maintain the soil consistently damp (but not soggy). Keep in mind that young seedlings have very small, concentrated root systems – so be sure to water immediately around the base of the plant. Yet don’t neglect the rest of the bed! Watering the soil between small plants (and also watering deeply) will encourage their roots to spread. The more expansive the root system, the more access to nutrients and water the plants have, and the more robust and healthy they will become. 

Related: Garden Irrigation Solutions: DIY, Efficient, and Non-Toxic Watering Options

Mulch

After transplanting seedlings outside, add mulch around them. Mulch is incredibly beneficial, but often overlooked! It reduces evaporation and runoff to keep soil evenly moist, and also buffers soil and plant roots from temperature swings.

Mulch in the spaces between the seedlings, but not directly against the stems. If it’s pressed right against young stems, mulch may increase the risk of rotting or pest issues. Therefore, maintain a few inches of open soil around the base of each plant. We personally love to use compost mixed with a woody ‘soil-building conditioner’ (similar to a very fine bark). Those items double as a slow-release fertilizer and add organic matter to the soil as well! 

Related: Pros and Cons of 8 Popular Types of Mulch including compost, bark, straw, leaves, and more. 

Protection

After you kick them out of the house, your babies may still need a helping hand. After transplanting seedlings outside, keep an eye on the weather forecast and be prepared to offer them protection if needed. Remember, young seedlings will NOT be happy when exposed to a hard frost. Also, consider their vulnerability to wandering pests such as rabbits, squirrels, or deer. You may not find the need to cover or protect your seedlings; it depends on the conditions in your garden.

We heavily rely on our hoops and insect netting to protect young seedlings from the ravenous beaks of wild birds in our garden – which also blocks pest insects like cabbage moths. We keep leafy greens covered for at least a month or two. The birds don’t seem to bother tomato, pepper, and squash seedlings as much. Hoops can also be used to support various row covers like frost blankets or shade cloth if significant temperature swings roll in. Other frost-protection tools include cold frames, individual cloches, or even bed sheets! 

Related: Using Hoops and Row Covers for Pest Control, Shade, and Frost Protection and 7 Ways to Protect Plants from Frost Damage

More ways to reduce transplant shock (and boost growth)

There are a number of very gentle but effective liquid solutions you can ‘feed’ your seedlings with to reduce transplant shock and encourage rapid new root development, including:

• Aloe vera soil drench: We often do this for freshly transplanted seedlings along with new trees or edible shrubs. Essentially, it involves blending up some fresh juicy aloe vera leaves with water, diluting it significantly, and then watering each plant with about a cup of the final solution. Like it does for human skin, aloe vera has potent nourishing and regenerative properties for plants too! Learn how to make homemade aloe vera fertilizer here.
  
  
• Seaweed extract: Dilute seaweed extract is another excellent option to provide young seedlings a boost – especially if you don’t have access to fresh aloe vera leaves! We love and use this seaweed extract. Mix it with water per the instructions on the bottle, and feel free to learn more about its benefits in this article. 
  
  
• Compost Tea: This option is my favorite from this list – and something you can do after transplanting seedlings outside, or any time throughout the growing season! We feed our garden actively aerated compost tea (AACT) several times per year. It’s kind of like our ‘secret sauce’. AACT tea is made by brewing compost in water with the addition of an air source (e.g. an air pump and bubbler) and a small amount of sugar (e.g. molasses). The process dramatically increases the number of beneficial bacteria in the brew, and results in highly bioavailable nutrients for your plants. Did you know that plants cannot take up nutrients without the assistance of bacteria and fungi? Check out our tutorial on how to make AACT here – video included!

Now you know all our secrets to success!

Are you ready to get planting? I hope all of these tips for transplanting seedlings outside will help you grow the most healthy, happy plants possible. Remember, you don’t have to do alllll of these things either! If I had to pick just a few key steps, I’d focus on using a mild organic fertilizer before planting, mycorrhizae on transplant day, and mulching thereafter. But don’t skip the hardening off process!

Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this information valuable, please spread the garden love by pinning or sharing this post. Until next time, happy planting!

The post Transplanting Seedlings Outside: Tips for Success appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Be sure to also stop by our Seed Starting 101 article for more tips on raising the most robust seedlings possible.

What are leggy seedlings? 

Seedlings are described as “leggy” when they grow very tall, skinny, and lanky. In the seedling world, taller does not equate to better, healthier plants! On the contrary, thin leggy seedlings are typically quite weak and fragile. They may also be pale or yellow-looking.

There is no exact height that seedlings must surpass to officially classify as leggy. It’s more about comparing them to healthy seedlings of the same variety that are grown in ideal conditions, which will stay much shorter compared to their less-happy, leggy counterparts. With time and experience, you’ll get a feel for what is considered grossly leggy or not.

What causes leggy seedlings?

The primary cause of leggy seedlings is lack of sufficient light, either in brightness or proximity to the plants. This can happen when gardeners start seeds indoors, or when seeds are planted outside in a too-shady location. Even in our greenhouse (which is partially shaded in the afternoon) we need to use grow lights in order to keep our seedlings happy. Paired with being stretched out tall, leggy seedlings will also often lean to one side – towards the direction of the brightest source of light around. They are desperately reaching for the sun! 

Are leggy seedlings bad?

In general, a leggy growth pattern on seedlings is not ideal. Rather than focusing their energy on developing thick, strong, sturdy stems, leggy seedlings become increasingly thin, fragile, and weak the taller they become. Their top-heavy nature makes them more vulnerable to flopping over, breaking, or other damage. Especially in the face of wind or other elements. Leggy seedlings are also more prone to ‘damping off’ – a condition when seedlings suddenly wilt, become very thin or rot right above the soil line.

Come planting time, not all types of seedlings like to be buried extra deep to compensate for their leggy stems. That practice also comes with the risk of rotting stems. However, many leggy seedlings can be saved (see “how to fix leggy seedlings” below). Tomato and tomatillo seedlings are particularly forgiving. Packed in a tight bunch and harvested young, it also doesn’t really matter if homegrown microgreens become leggy.

All in all, it is best practice to try to prevent leggy seedlings in the first place. Follow the tips below!

How to Prevent Leggy Seedlings

• Provide ample bright light to seedlings immediately after germination. All it takes is a day or two in the dark for a young sprout to get irreversibly leggy!
  
  
• When starting seeds indoors, plan to provide seedlings with supplemental light (aka a “grow light”). Unfortunately, a sunny window generally doesn’t provide enough light on its own. 
  
  
• As soon as your seeds sprout, turn the grow lights on. If you’re worried about missing this crucial moment, turn on your grow lights a few days after sowing seeds (but before they’ve sprouted). The vast majority of seeds do not need light to germinate, but that way the light will be on and waiting for the moment they do! 
  
  
• Remove any cover used over your seed starting tray to aid in germination (e.g. humidity dome or other) soon after the seedlings sprout, especially if it is not transparent.
  
  
• Keep grow lights suspended low over the seedlings. Even with a very bright grow light, seedlings may get leggy if it’s hung too high. Most fluorescent lights can stay as close as a few inches above seedlings, while LEDs usually need to be kept higher to avoid burning the plants. Follow the light manufacturer’s recommendations. Raise the lights as needed as your plants grow taller.
  
  
• Provide a minimum of 12 hours of bright light (14 to 16 hours is ideal) and 8 hours of darkness. I highly recommend using a simple light timer! Set it and forget it. 
  
  
• When starting seeds outdoors, direct sow seeds in a suitably sunny location and at the right time of year for the type of plant and your zone. Starting seeds outdoors during winter (when daylight hours are usually shorter) can lead to unhappy seedlings, especially in a garden space that receives partial or full shade.

Learn more about choosing and using grow lights in this article, which covers the key differences between LED and fluorescent lights, ratings, best practices, and popular grow light options.

How to Correct or Fix Leggy Seedlings

Once you have leggy seedlings, there isn’t anything you can do to make them short again. However, if you act quickly, you may be able to prevent them from becoming even more lanky. Furthermore, there are a few tricks to help them gain strength and still live out their best life possible.  

1) Provide more light as soon as possible

The best way to fix leggy seedlings is give them more light, ASAP! This could mean adding a supplemental grow light if you’re not using one already, upgrading to a stronger light, or lowering your current light closer to the seedlings so it is more effective. As you lower a light, there is a smaller area of well-lit space available below it’s canopy. Thus, it may require several lights or one larger unit to provide adequate light over a large number of seedling trays. Otherwise, the stragglers around the perimeter are left out! In that case, take turns rotating different trays directly under the light every day until you can provide more. 

2) Turn heat mats off (or down)

If you are using a seedling heat mat to start seeds indoors and your seedlings appear to be getting leggy, go ahead and turn the heat mat off or down. Warmth helps to expedite seed germination (a great thing!) but can also encourage seedlings to grow faster. When seedlings are already lookin’ on the leggy side, let’s not do anything to encourage them to get even taller, shall we? This recommendation comes in addition to adding more light of course. 

We personally love to use these seedling heat mats that have a built-in thermostat control and temperature probe. After germination, we set our heat mats to come on only when the soil temperature drops below 65-70°F. This keeps our heat-loving summer crop seedlings (tomatoes, peppers, basil, flowers, etc) happy in our greenhouse during the winter to early spring, where it can get quite chilly overnight but also very warm during the day. You can easily apply the same set-up indoors, in a garage, or anywhere you’re raising seedlings.

3) Start over

Okay, hear me out here. I’m not talking about starting a new round of seeds when you’re several weeks or even months deep into the seed-starting season for your zone. However, if you have ample seeds and things are looking leggy only a few days after germination, it might be in everyone’s best interest to start fresh rather than fussing over leggy seedlings for the rest of the season. 

For example, just the other day I started a few 6-packs of bok choy seeds on a heat mat in a dark spare room. I had every wonderful intention of checking them frequently and moving them out to the greenhouse (and under a grow light) as soon as they sprouted. Welp, I forgot to check on them for over 24 hours, they sprouted, and already looked way too tall for my liking. So I simply started more bok choy seeds, and kept the leggy seedlings as the ‘bad example’ for this post! 

4) Make them stronger

If you have leggy seedlings, you very well might be able to plant them anyways! But first, they need to be significantly strengthened in preparation. Early on, they’ll be too weak to plant outside. Also, young leggy seedlings are usually too tender to bury deeper in soil without the stems potentially rotting.

Be sure to thin your seedlings down to just one sprout per cell or container within a couple weeks after sprouting. Thinning reduces competition for nutrients, space, light, water, and improves air circulation. I always suggest trimming out unwanted sprouts rather than plucking and pulling. After that, there are three main ways to turn your leggy seedlings from puny to mighty:

Add movement 

To strengthen seedlings, introduce a light wind with an oscillating fan. Don’t put it on full blast, but enough to create gentle shaking and movement. Movement helps the stems of leggy seedlings become more tough and strong. Tickling seedlings with your hands can help in the same manner. Yet a fan is beneficial in more ways than one! Ample airflow also prevents fungal disease and damping off. I recommend using a fan on indoor seedlings whether they’re leggy or not. 

Use mild fertilizer and “water from below”

Another way to boost the health of leggy seedlings is to feed them! Once seedlings develop their first set or two of true leaves (the ones that grow after the initial two leaves that are often heart-shaped) you can begin to feed them with a very mild liquid fertilizer. The seedlings should be at least a few weeks old by this point, since they do not need or care for fertilizer much younger than that.

We prefer to feed our seedlings with seaweed extract, though fish emulsion is another popular choice. Be sure to dilute whatever you use per the instructions on the bottle. Then, add the liquid fertilizer/water into the lower tray that the seedling containers are sitting in. The soil will soak up what it needs from the bottom. That is the way we always suggest to water all seedlings anyways, but especially the leggy ones! Pouring water in from the top runs the risk of knocking them over, and doesn’t provide even moisture. When you water from below, it encourages their roots to grow deep – making the plants more strong.

Harden off

Finally, be sure to always harden off leggy seedlings before transplanting them outside. ‘Hardening off’ is the process of slowly introducing seedlings that were raised indoors to the outdoor elements. This generally involves taking the seedlings outside each day over the course of a week, starting with just a few hours in the shade and gradually increasing the time and amount of direct sunlight. Like a fan, this makes the seedlings stronger and more prepared to face challenges such as wind, rain, hot sun, or cold conditions. See step-by-step hardening off instructions here.

Potting Up or Planting Leggy Seedlings 

Can you bury leggy seedlings deeper in the soil? 

Generally, yes, you can plant leggy seedlings deeper in the soil to help compensate for the extra-long stems! However, avoid the temptation to plant them deeper right away, when they’re still very young and tender. Weak, thin, small stems may rot once they’re buried in damp soil. Wait at least several weeks, and after taking steps to strengthen and/or harden off the leggy seedlings as described above.

Once the stems are more tough and strong, you should be able to bury a portion of the leggy seedling stem – either by potting them up, or transplanting them outside. Or, you may do both! For instance, we start our tomatoes in small 4” seedling pots. Then after about a month, we pot up the seedlings into larger 8” nursery pots and bury the stem by a couple inches at that time. Then when we transplant them out into the garden, we can bury the stem a few more inches if needed.  

See related: Potting Up Seedlings: When, Why & How

How deep can you plant leggy seedlings? 

Well, that depends on the type of plant and size of the seedling! The goal is to bury the leggy seedling stem enough so that the plant isn’t too top heavy and can successfully grow. Otherwise, I personally err on the side of caution and avoid burying them more than necessary. 

• Most common garden vegetables don’t mind if you bury their stem part way or all the way up to their first set of true leaves (or first set of lateral branches). You can do this with peppers and members of the brassica family: kale, collard greens, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, or cauliflower.
  
  
• If the vegetable is one that should normally form a head or bulb right at the soil line, then you’ll want to bury it up to that point – where the stem branches and begins to form the main crop, so that its weight will be supported on the soil surface. Consider a head of lettuce, bok choy, cabbage, or kohlrabi for example. 
  
  
• You can plant some seedlings even deeper. Tomatoes and tomatillos are prime examples. Due to their advantageous root systems, it is a common practice to remove the lowest few branches and bury leggy tomato seedlings up past that point (planting up to half of the plant underground). Tomatoes and tomatillos will grow new roots off of the buried portion of the stem! More roots equals a more robust and healthy plant.
  
  
• It is less necessary to deeply bury seedlings of plants that will continue to grow tall branching stems well above the soil line anyways, such as flowers or herbs.
  
  
• I’ve heard conflicting things about how well eggplant, squash, and cucumber seedlings take to being planted deeply (as they may be more prone to rotting). Therefore, play it safe and only minimally bury those if needed, and do so in well-draining soil that won’t hold copious moisture around their stems.

And that concludes this lesson on leggy seedlings.

All in all, do not feel bad if your seedlings are a little leggy! Even the most experienced gardeners doing all the “right” things grow some slightly leggy seedlings sometimes – ourselves included. As you saw in this article, all hope is not lost! There are a number of ways to prevent and fix leggy seedlings. Plus, you’ll learn from your mistakes and improve next season. That is one thing I love about gardening: there is always something new to learn, and there is always next year.

Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Also, please pin or share this article if you found it valuable! Cheers to growing happy seedlings!

You may enjoy these related posts:

• Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors
• 12 Places to Buy Organic, Heirloom, and Non-GMO Garden Seeds
• Using Grow Lights for Seedlings and Indoor Plants
• Top 9 Common Seed Starting Mistakes to Avoid
• How & Why to Feed Seedlings with Seaweed Extract
• Hardening Off Seedlings to Prevent Transplant Shock
• Topping Pepper Plants and Pinching Flowers for Better Harvests

The post How to Prevent and Fix Leggy Seedlings appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

What does it mean to “direct sow” seeds?

Direct sow is a gardening method where seeds are planted outside, directly in the soil in their final growing destination (e.g. in a garden plot, raised bed, or large container). There they will sprout, grow, and die. To direct sow seeds outdoors, follow the instructions on your seed package (when the time is right!). As a general rule of thumb, cover seeds with a light layer of soil that is about three times the thickness of the seed itself. Thus, very small seeds are buried far less deeply than larger seeds.

In contrast, seeds may be started indoors, where the young seedlings will eventually be transplanted outdoors to their forever home. By “indoors”, I mean any time or place that seeds are started in containers (seedling trays, small pots, peat moss pods, etc) in a protected location. So, this could mean literally inside a house, as well as in a garage, climate-controlled greenhouse, or similar.

Ideal conditions for seed germination

First, let’s start with a quick overview of the ideal conditions seeds need to sprout and grow, which is important to understand as you begin to navigate the seed-starting world.

• In general, vegetable, herb and flower seeds need two key things to readily sprout: consistent moisture and steady warm temperatures. 
• The soil or potting medium that the seeds are planted in should be maintained nicely damp. Never allowed to fully dry out, but not overly soggy either. 
• The majority of seeds prefer a temperate range between 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit for optimal speedy germination. However, most seeds can and will sprout in the 50’s to 60’s, but at a much slower and less consistent rate. 
• Furthermore, keep in mind that a few select vegetables actually prefer slightly cooler soil conditions for germination (50 to 70F) – including lettuce, arugula, onions, peas, carrots, radishes, and turnips. Many of these seeds are ideal to direct sow outside.
• For the best results, seeds should also be started in a fluffy, fine-textured soil. Or, in a sterile soilless seed-starting medium.
• Once seeds germinate and start their life as a seedling, they need ample bright light right away. Seedlings may also need protection from pests or inclimate weather. 
• Indoor-raised seedlings should always be hardened off before transplanting outside to avoid shock and damage.
  

Related article: “Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors”

Benefits of Starting Seeds Indoors

There are a number of notable benefits to starting seeds indoors over planting them outside, highlighted below. Most avid gardeners start at least some of their seeds inside. Even more, northern gardeners and those with short growing seasons absolutely must start seeds indoors in order to successfully grow and harvest certain crops at all!  

Get a Jump Start on the Season

By starting seeds indoors, you are extending your growing season and giving your plants a jump start. When it is still too cold and dark to plant seeds outside, raising seedlings indoors can give the plants weeks or even months of time to begin to mature. This is a huge advantage, particularly for folks with a short growing season! If you plan it right, you will have big, robust, healthy seedlings ready to go in the ground when the growing season begins. While indoor seedlings are still growing in their containers, it also provides you extra time to decide exactly where you want to plant them.

Take cool-season crops like broccoli, cabbage, or cauliflower for example. All of these brassicas take several months from seed to harvest, and are not big fans of high heat or temperature swings. So, if you wait until the spring weather is suitable for planting seeds outdoors, the plants likely will not grow quickly enough to produce a harvestable head before hot weather sets in and causes issues. 

Heat-loving summer crops also benefit from getting an early start indoors. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant can take many months before they begin producing edible fruits. Starting them indoors means you’ll be harvesting sooner and longer before chilly fall weather returns once again. Additionally, playing with seeds indoors is a fun way to keep in touch with your gardening hobby during the cold and darker days of the off-season.

Not sure when is the “best time” to start seeds? Reference your Homestead and Chill planting calendar for a visual guide on when to start seeds indoors, transplant seedlings outside, or direct sow seeds outdoors – for every USDA hardiness zone.

Easier to Control Conditions Indoors

When starting seeds indoors, gardeners are able to provide them an ideal controlled climate. Clearly, indoor temperatures are more steady and moderate than outside. Even more, optimal seed-starting conditions (described above) can be achieved with the use of a specialized seed-starting soil medium, seedling heat mats, humidity domes, and grow lights. The result is quick and even seed germination, and accelerated seedling growth compared to the direct sow method.

Outdoors, cool soil or inconsistent water can lead to spotty or slow germination. Cold temperatures and limited daylight hours during the winter months will also make seedlings grow less vigorously, even in frost-free areas. By having all your seeds and seedlings in one concentrated area, it also makes it easier to remember to look after them!

Protection from Pests & Harsh Weather

Baby sprouts are especially vulnerable to damage from frost, pests, or other external threats. We’ve had several garden beds full of just-sprouted seedlings taken out by birds in a single morning! Devastating. Pest insects may also pose a threat, especially soil-borne pests like cutworms and pill bugs. Starting seeds and raising seedlings indoors offers them protection from these things during their most vulnerable time.

If you plant seeds directly outdoors, be prepared to protect the seedlings as soon as they emerge as needed. The same goes for small indoor-raised seedlings after they are hardened off and transplanted outside. Hoops and row covers are the most useful tools we’ve come across for protecting seedlings from birds, insects, critters, frost, extreme heat/sun, and more.

Maximize Production

A final benefit of starting seeds in containers is that it buys additional time for any other plants that are still growing in your garden. For example, say you want to grow a fall garden (my favorite!) Most fall garden seeds need to be started during the summer, when you likely still have healthy summer crops occupying your garden beds. Even though summertime is a far easier time to direct sow seeds outside than during the winter, starting seeds indoors instead (or even outside in seedling trays or small pots) allows the other established plants to continue to grow for an additional month or two – and feed you in the meantime!

Benefits of Direct Sowing Seeds

As you can see, there are a number of benefits to starting seeds indoors… but direct sowing seeds outdoors has its advantages too! Most notably, planting seeds directly outside requires fewer supplies or equipment than starting seeds indoors. Also, you won’t need to fuss with the added step of hardening off seedlings when you use the direct sow method. Last but not least, certain types of plants do not like to be transplanted at all (see the list below). In that case, directly sowing seeds is clearly the best choice for those!

Vegetables to always direct sow seeds outdoors:

• Carrots
• Garlic
• Parsnips
• Potatoes
• Radishes
• Rutabaga
• Turnips
• Turmeric

Notice a theme? Most root vegetables and rhizomes don’t take kindly to transplanting. Attempting to do so will likely cause permanent stunting, or even death to the seedlings. Feel free to visit our grow guides on how to grow potatoes, carrots, radishes, turmeric, and garlic for more tips! Note that garlic, turmeric, and potatoes are not started from traditional seeds. Instead, individual garlic cloves, turmeric rhizomes, and small pieces of ‘seed potatoes’ are planted. These can be pre-sprouted indoors, but not in the same manner as other seedlings.

Vegetables that prefer to be directly sown, but can be carefully transplanted

Are you a “rule breaker” like me? The list of vegetables below are most often recommended to direct sow seeds outside. However, we don’t always follow that suggestion – and I know many other fellow gardeners who do the same! Yet these sensitive veggies do not like their roots ruffled, are more prone to becoming stunted, and may indeed thrive best when directly sown outside. 

If you do opt to start these seeds indoors, they should be transplanted soon after, while the seedlings are still quite small. Take care to not disturb their roots too much. Never allow them to become overgrown in their container (aka root bound). To avoid this, either start them in decently-sized containers (such as small 4″ pots) or carefully pot them up as needed.

After a few years of trial and error, we now usually direct sow seeds for beans and peas outside (but not always). On the other hand, we start our shallots, spinach, leeks, beets, kohlrabi, and corn inside first – simply to get a head start. Experiment and see what works best for you. You could even do a side-by-side comparison of both methods!

• Beans (including Fava beans)
• Beets
• Corn
• Kohlrabi
• Leeks
• Peas
• Shallots
• Spinach 

Start inside OR direct sow seeds outdoors (all others)

Essentially all other veggies or herbs can technically be started indoors or planted directly outside. However, keep in mind they’ll be subject to all of the pros and cons we’ve explored today! Most herbs are more successful when started indoors. For flowers, follow the recommendations provided on the seed package.

• Basil*
• Bok Choy (and other Asian greens)
• Broccoli
• Brussels Sprouts
• Cabbage*
• Cauliflower*
• Celery
• Collard Greens
• Cucumber*
• Eggplant
• Kale*
• Lettuce*
• Melons
• Mustard Greens
• Onions*
• Peppers*
• Squash (Zucchini/Summer Squash* or Winter Squash)
• Swiss Chard
• Tomatillos
• Tomatoes*

*Click on any of the highlighted vegetables in the list to visit the corresponding grow guide!

Ready to get sowing?

Well folks, that about sums up the pros and cons between starting seeds indoors versus the direct sow method. I hope this discussion and the list of vegetables to direct sow seeds will help you grow strong, healthy plants! Please feel free to ask questions in the comments below. If you found this information to be valuable, please spread the love by sharing or pinning this post! Happy growing.

Don’t miss these related articles:

• Seed Starting 101: How to Sow Seeds Indoors
• 12 Places to Buy Organic, Heirloom, and Non-GMO Garden Seeds
• Using Grow Lights for Seedlings and Indoor Plants
• Top 9 Common Seed Starting Mistakes to Avoid
• How & Why to Feed Seedlings with Seaweed Extract
• Hardening Off Seedlings to Prevent Transplant Shock
• A Beginner’s Guide to Using a Hobby Greenhouse
• How to Build a Raised Garden Bed: A Step-by-Step Guide
• How to Amend & Fertilize a Raised Garden Bed Between Seasons

The post Start Seeds Indoors or Direct Sow (Plant) Seeds Outdoors? appeared first on Homestead and Chill.