Vegetables Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/garden/vegetables/ Organic Gardening | Real Food | Natural Health | Good Vibes Tue, 05 Sep 2023 15:08:29 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.2 https://homesteadandchill.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/H-75x75.png Vegetables Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/garden/vegetables/ 32 32 155825441 28 Best Winter Squash and Pumpkin Varieties to Grow https://homesteadandchill.com/best-pumpkin-winter-squash-varieties/ https://homesteadandchill.com/best-pumpkin-winter-squash-varieties/#comments Thu, 15 Jun 2023 04:51:27 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060137 Butternuts, kabocha, delicata... Get excited to grow winter squash and pumpkins with this list 28 unique, beautiful, and delicious varieties to grow! With varying sizes, storage shelf life, days to maturity, and disease resistance - there are options for every garden and zone.

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Butternut, acorn, delicata… There are so many kinds of decorative and edible winter squash to grow, and even more interesting varieties within each type! Come explore our top 28 popular and noteworthy winter squash varieties – including pumpkins, spaghetti squash, kabocha squash, and more.

In addition to their unique appearances, different winter squash varieties offer their own distinct flavor profiles, culinary uses, fruit size, growth habits (bush vs vining), storage potential, days to maturity, and natural pest or disease resistance. Ranging from highly ornate to simple and delicious, there is something for every gardener on this list.

Need tips on growing winter squash and pumpkins? Check out our full seed-to-table Grow Guide here.



Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, including to High Mowing Organic Seeds, our favorite small business to buy certified organic garden seeds from. Browse the complete selection of winter squash varieties offered by High Mowing here.


Butternut Squash Varieties


Pumpkins aside, butternut squash are arguably the most common and popular type of winter squash – and for good reason! With its sweet, nutty, beautiful orange flesh, butternut squash is ideal for baking, roasting, soups, sauces, and more. It pairs equally as good with sweets and cinnamon spices as it does with savory herbs like sage, garlic, and thyme, and can be used interchangeably in recipes that call for pumpkin. Butternut also offers a high flesh-to-cavity ratio, exceptional storage life, and are highly resistant to squash vine borers! There are dozens of different butternut squash varieties, but here are my top four:


  1. Nutter Butter Butternut. This is our favorite butternut squash variety. We harvested 28 squash (just over 60 pounds) from just TWO plants last year! It’s described to be “reliably mature in regions that have trouble ripening butternuts” and has some tolerance to powdery mildew – both great for our cool coastal climate. 90 days to maturity. Vining habitat. Get seeds here.

  2. Waltham Butternut. A classic large butternut squash variety with a long neck and small seed cavity. The yellow orange flesh is sweet, rich, and nutty tasting. Great long-term storage. 100 days to maturity. Vining habitat. Get seeds here (or here).

  3. Autumn Frost Butternut Squash. A gorgeous specialty butternut with a unique frosted appearance and rich earthy flavor. Highly resistant to powdery mildew. 100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  4. Honeynut Butternut. Petite personal-sized butternut squash with a classic butternut shape, dark tan skin, and great tasting flesh. Good resistance to powdery mildew. 110 days to maturity. Vining habitat. Get seeds here (or here).


A birds eye view photo of a wicker basket full of harvested butternut squash, a vine from the plant is growing out from the raised bed nearby and is bordering the basket. Two people stand near the basket, only their boots are visible.
Nutterbutter grows incredibly well and prolific for us. Not to mention that some of the fruit lasted 7 months in storage!
A wooden box full of butternut squash whose skin is silvery tan and the flesh is bright orange in color.
Autumn Frost butternut from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Pumpkin Varieties


Pumpkins: the quintessential winter squash variety for fall decor – and drool-worthy seasonal baked goods! All pumpkin varieties are technically edible, though some “jack-o-lantern” types are best left for carving or ornamental use. On the other hand, most pumpkin varieties are absolutely delicious. They’re also loaded with vitamin A, C, antioxidants, and fiber. Browse even more unique pumpkin varieties here, and don’t miss our list of pumpkin (and butternut) recipes at the end of this post!


  1. New England Pie Pumpkin. Also known as “sugar pie pumpkins”, these petite round heirloom pumpkins have flavorful, stringless flesh with the ideal texture for baking. 105 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  2. Cider Jack Pumpkin. Medium sized Jack O’ Lantern type (10-14 pound fruits) with smooth skin and long stem make it great for carving. Some resistance to powdery mildew. 90 days to maturity. Semi-bush habitat. Get seeds here.

  3. Cinderella Pumpkin. A whimsical French heirloom pumpkin with large, flattened red-skinned fruit (15 to 20 pounds) with deep orange flesh and a strong sweet flavor. Edible and highly ornamental. 99 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here (or here).

  4. Pie-Pita Hulless Pumpkin. This pie pumpkin variety produces already-shelled (hulless) pumpkin seeds inside (aka pepitas) – making it ideal to use for its flesh AND easy edible seeds. Petite 2 to 3 pound fruit. 100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  5. Musquee de Provence (aka Fairytale). Stunning ribbed, flat heirloom pumpkin variety that grows 14 to 40 pounds. Tan, muted orange skin and thick, deep orange moderately sweet flesh. Sold in cut wedges in French markets for cooking. Highly decorative and edible. Long storage ability. 125 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  6. Jarrahdale Pumpkin. Silvery-blue pumpkin with deep ridges that reaches 6 to 12 pounds in weight. Can be used as decor, carved, and even baked. Orange, stringless flesh is sweet and nutty in flavor. Good long storage ability. 100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  7. Red Warty Thing. Unique 10-20 pound fruit with incredibly bumpy, red-orange skin and good flavored flesh with nice texture. Can be used as decor, carved, or eaten once the fall holiday season has passed. 110 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.


A group of short and squat, light orange pumpkins with light tan stems are mostly used for baking.
New England sugar pie pumpkins from High Mowing Organic Seeds
Four squash that are bright orangish red in color while being wide and flat in shape with deep ridges. One that has been cut reveals bright orange flesh within. There are so many winter squash varieties to grow and eat, you may need more garden space.
Cinderella heirloom pumpkins from High Mowing Organic Seeds
Smaller orange pumpkins sit stacked atop one another two high. They have long dark stems, bright orange skin and matching orange flesh. Their seeds are hull-less so they are green in color without the seed shell.
Pie-Pita pumpkins from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Acorn Squash Varieties


Acorn squash is a small, round, scalloped winter squash variety. It is prized by Indigenous peoples for its long storage life, ability to cook whole, and versatile uses. Acorn squash flesh is mild and buttery, pairing with both savory and sweet flavors and seasonings. The petite size (2-3 pounds) makes one fruit an ideal meal for two. The generous-sized center cavity is perfect for stuffing with other filling ingredients, served right in its own shell.

  1. Sweet Reba Acorn Squash. REBA stands for “Resistant Early Bush Acorn” – describing this highly disease-resistant, early bush variety of acorn squash. It produces bountiful yields of uniform two pound fruit with dark green skin and dark yellow flesh. 90 days to maturity. Bush. Get seeds here.

  2. Table King Acorn Squash. An even earlier-maturing acorn squash variety, ideal for short growing seasons or late planting. Two pound fruit with dark green skin, bright yellow flesh, and sweet nutty flavor. 75-80 days to maturity. Compact 4′ vines, good for small spaces. Get seeds here.

  3. Sugarbush Acorn Squash. Round 2 to 3 pound fruit with dark green skin and exceptionally sweet golden orange flesh. This acorn squash variety offers high resistance to powdery mildew and a small seed cavity. 90 days to maturity. Compact bush type. Get seeds here.


Many small acorn squash sit in a wooden box, their skin is dark green in color with a single splotch of orange, one of the fruit has been cut in half to show its bright yellowish orange flesh.
Sweet Reba acorn squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Delicata Squash Varieties


Delicata squash are oblong cylindrical fruits with cream to yellow-orange skin and green stripes. Unlike other winter squash varieties, delicata has exceptionally thin edible skin, so peeling isn’t necessary! This makes it especially popular for quick and easy preparation, roasting, and even used on salads. Despite the thin skin, delicata squash should still last a couple months in dry storage post-harvest if stored properly. The flavor of delicata squash is often described as a cross between butternut squash and sweet potato, sweet and tender.


  1. Classic Delicata Squash. Vining plant that produces oblong, uniform 1 to 1.5 pound striped fruit with superbly tender, sweet flesh and skin. 95 days to maturity. Get seeds here.

  2. Honeyboat Delicata. Claimed to be the “sweetest squash in existence”. Long 1 to 1.5 pound fruits have the classic green striping of delicata but with a much more orangey-copper colored skin compared to the yellow that is typically found. Stores well and the sweetness holds up through storage. 100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  3. Bush Delicata. 1.5 to 2 pound cream-skinned fruit with green stripes that turns more yellow as it cures. Sweet, nutty flavor with hints of butter and brown sugar. Compact plants only spread 4-6 feet and have some resistance to powdery mildew. 100 days to maturity. Semi-vining. Get seeds here.


Delicata squash inside a plastic tote, its skin has green striping with coppery orange flesh, one of the oblong fruits has been cut in half lengthwise, revealing the long and narrow seed cavity and dark yellow flesh. There are so many winter squash varieties to grow, you may have a hard time choosing which ones to grow.
Honeyboat delicata squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Hubbard Squash


Hubbard squash are a large, interesting, pear-shaped type of winter squash. It’s very ornate for fall decor! Like most winter squash varieties, Hubbard squash flesh is sweet and starchy but can also sometimes be a bit grainy – so it’s better for purees, baking, or soups than eating roasted on its own. Note that Blue Hubbard squash is highly attractive to squash bugs and vine borers. So much so, it’s often grown as a trap crop. 


  1. Baby Blue Hubbard Squash. A smaller version of the unique teardrop-shaped blue Hubbard squash. 5 to 7 pound fruits with smooth blue-gray skin. This variety’s yellow-orange flesh is sweeter than classic large Hubbard squash. 95 days to maturity. Get seeds here.

  2. Red Kuri. A red baby hubbard type that bears 3 to 4 pound teardrop-shaped fruit with bright reddish-orange skin, and smooth, sweet, dry orange flesh. This improved variety offers great yields even in cooler climates and shorter seasons. 95 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here (or here).


Bright green blue in color pear shaped fruit sit on the grass nearby some rusty farm equipment.
Baby Blue Hubbard squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds
Bright reddish orange skin and oblong teardrop shaped red kuri squash. The shape, color, and flavor of this squash make it one of the good winter squash varieties to grow.
Red Kuri winter squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Kabocha Squash


Kabocha squash is a Japanese type of winter squash, with small to medium size squatty fruit that resemble petite heirloom pumpkins. Classic kabocha varieties have dark green skin with yellow flesh, though it also comes in other colors and cultivars. Kabocha’s smooth sweet flesh is very versatile to use in cooking, roasting, baked goods, and as a substitute for other winter squash varieties in recipes, including pumpkin.


  1. Sunshine Kabocha. Vigorous, compact plants produce slightly flattened 3 to 5 pound globe-shaped fruit. Reddish-orange skin and bright orange flesh with great flavor and stringless texture. 95 days to maturity. Semi-bush. Get seeds here.

  2. Bagheera. Dark green skin with golden orange flesh that is both rich in flavor and firm in texture. 3 to 4 pound fruits grow on compact high-yielding plants. 95 days to maturity. Semi-bush. Get seeds here.

  3. Winter Sweet Squash. Uniquely beautiful pale gray-blue kabocha squash. 4 to 5 pound fruits offer complex, sweet, rich flavor that improves after a 2-5 months of storage. Taste test winner, and excellent long storage! 95 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.


A mound of Sunshine kabocha squash atop a wooden backdrop. The skin is bright reddish orange and the flesh of a cut squash reveals the orange flesh inside. There are numerous winter squash varieties to grow or buy at your local market.
Sunshine kabocha from High Mowing Organic Seeds
A pile of Winter Sweet squash that is lighting silvery blue in color, one has been cut in half to reveal the bright orange flesh and seedy cavity within. This is one of the winter squash varieties we are growing this season and the plants are very vigorous.
Winter Sweet squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Spaghetti Squash


Spaghetti squash is a fun winter squash variety for adults and kids alike. It also makes a great low-carb or gluten-free pasta alternative. Once cooked, spaghetti squash flesh pulls apart into long “noodles” – which can be served right in its own skin like a bowl! Top with butter or olive oil, salt, pepper, and perhaps a sprinkle of parmesan cheese. Yum!


  1. Classic Spaghetti Squash: Long, oblong yellow 3 to 5 pound fruit with flesh that separates into noodle-like strands when cooked. Very sweet and kid-friendly. 88 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  2. Orangeti Spaghetti Squash: Oblong in shape like traditional spaghetti squash but matures into a dark golden orange in color, inside and out. Early-maturing and high yield potential. 70 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  3. Angel Hair Spaghetti Squash: Prolific vines produce abundant petite squash (1.5 to 2 pounds). When cooked, the squash shreds into extra-fine angel hair squash noodles. 88 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.


Two fresh yellow spaghetti squash are sitting beyond a halved spaghetti squash that has been cooked and the flesh is pulled from its skin, the flesh resembles small yellow noodles. Spaghetti squash is a one of the better winter squash varieties to grow with kids in mind as they enjoy the noodle like flesh.
Classic Spaghetti squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Other Winter Squash Varieties


  1. Burgess Buttercup: Prolific long green vines bear 10 to 12 round squash. Ideal for trellising. Fruit are 3 to 5 pounds each, with green skin and bright orange sweet flesh. 95 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  2. Lakota: Beautiful pear-shaped heirloom squash with mottled bright reddish-orange and green skin. A rare, delicious, and highly-decorative Native American winter squash variety, historically grown by the Lakota Sioux. Sweet and nutty flavor. 85-100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  3. Pink Banana: Large, oblong fruit that measure 18-24 inches in length and weigh up to 12 pounds. Smooth, light pink skin with sweet orange flesh that can be eaten on its own, used in baked goods, or canning. Aaron used to work at Whole Foods, and these things were a HIT with customers whenever they came into stock. 100-120 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.


Green buttercup winter squash sitting in a wooden box, one of the squash has been cut in half to show the bright yellow orange flesh inside. There are many winter squash varieties to choose from for you garden.
Burgess Buttercup winter squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds
A four way image collage, the first image shows 4 halves of butternut squash cut lengthwise sitting face up on a baking sheet. They have been roasted in the oven and contain caramelized brown and black spots throughout the flesh.  The second image  shows a baked butternut "pumpkin" pie sitting in a glass pie container. The third image shows a birds eye view of a bowl of pumpkin chili garnished with cilantro and avocado slices. Sliced bread and a half roasted pumpkin garnish the are surrounding the bowl. The fourth image shows two slices of pumpkin bread sitting on a small white plate, beyond is the rest of the pumpkin bread sitting on a wire cooling rack.
I love cooking with winter squash! See recipe ideas below.


That concludes this round-up of awesome pumpkin and winter squash varieties.


Believe it or not, we barely scratched the surface of all the winter squash varieties and options out there. But I hope this list serves as a great starting point, and gives you plenty of ideas and inspiration! Did I miss any of your favorite go-to varieties to grow? Please let us know in the comments, or ask any questions you may have. Also please feel to share this article if you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in, and happy growing!


Don’t miss these related posts:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

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Growing Winter Squash and Pumpkins: The Ultimate Guide https://homesteadandchill.com/growing-winter-squash-pumpkins/ https://homesteadandchill.com/growing-winter-squash-pumpkins/#comments Wed, 14 Jun 2023 18:30:06 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060032 Learn everything you need to know to grow winter squash and pumpkins - with tips from seed to storage. They're delicious, fun to grow, versatile in the kitchen, last months in storage, and come in many unique shapes, sizes, and varieties!

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Are you interested in growing winter squash and pumpkins? Hey, me too! In fact, they’ve become some of my favorite crops in the garden lately. Winter squash is fun to grow, delicious and versatile in the kitchen, lasts for months in storage, and come in SO many unique shapes, sizes, and varieties. The plants admittedly do take up a bit of room, but can be grown up trellises to save space – which looks pretty darn cool too!

This guide will cover everything you need to know to grow winter squash and pumpkins from seed to table, including the best time of year to plant them, soil and space requirements, popular varieties, tips on growing winter squash vertically up trellises or in containers, hand pollination, pest control, harvest time, recipes, and more. After reading this, you’re going to want to grow ALL the squash! And you’ll be prepared to successfully do so. 



What is Winter Squash


Winter squash is a group of plants belonging to the cucurbit (Cucurbitaceae) family. Examples of winter squash include pumpkins, butternut squash, acorn squash, spaghetti squash, delicata, kabocha, gourds, and more. Often starchy and semi-sweet in nature, winter squash is popularly used in baking (e.g. pies or sweet breads) as well as roasted, added to soups, stews and more. They also make fantastic natural fall decor!

Have you ever wondered what the difference between winter squash and summer squash is, or why it is called “winter squash” at all? Namely, because winter squash is able to store and enjoy through the winter! Hard squash is another name for winter squash.

Both summer squash and winter squash are grown during the summer, but summer squash (e.g. zucchini) is more tender, perishable, and needs to be eaten or preserved soon after harvest. In contrast, winter squash has hard, thick skin and firm flesh that enables it to last in dry storage for many months post-harvest if cured and stored correctly. In fact, most winter squash varieties improve in flavor after a few months of storage.


A green, flat, pumpkin shaped squash has had a quarter of the fruit cut out revealing a bright orange flesh inside and a pulpy seed cavity.
Another difference is that winter squash has a hollow center cavity with “guts” and large seeds, whereas summer squash has small tender seeds within the flesh.


When to Plant and Grow Winter Squash 


Don’t let the name confuse you! Pumpkins and winter squash grow during the warm growing season, just like zucchini and other summer squash. They are not frost tolerant. Winter squash takes a longer time to grow, mature, and ripen – often harvested in late summer or fall. Day to maturity varies greatly with variety, averaging 90 to 100 days. 

The best time to plant winter squash is in early spring, after the risk of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up to at least 60 degrees (over 70°F is preferred if direct-sowing seeds). The plants enjoy warm soil and weather, so planting too early can slow their growth. Here on the Central Coast of California, we typically plant winter squash seedlings outside in mid April to early May. 

Winter squash grows best when air temperatures are 50-90°F.  Established fruit will continue to grow and mature in temperatures up to 100°F. But pollination cannot occur and flowers will drop in hotter temperatures, so new fruit will not set. Therefore, places with mild springs and very hot summer weather (e.g. Arizona, Florida, Texas, etc) should plant out winter squash as early in the growing season as possible (even in late winter). Use shade cloth during heat waves as needed, or frost cloth to protect plants from freezing. 


A birds eye view of DeannaCat's outstretched hand holding a butternut squash. Below are two wicker baskets that are both full of harvested butternut squash. Grow winter squash to store healthy vegetables through winter.
Last years’ butternut squash harvest – planted in April and harvested throughout September and October. We harvested 28 squash (over 50 pounds) from just two Nutterbutter vines!


Starting from Seed


It’s easy to grow winter squash and pumpkins from seed! Direct sow seeds outdoors after the last frost, once the soil is 65-70°F. Plant the seeds about an inch deep, and keep the soil consistently moist during germination. We like to cover emerging seedlings with chicken wire cloches to prevent birds or other critters from eating the tender sprouts. 

Or, get a jump start on the growing season and start winter squash seeds indoors and transplant seedlings outside instead. Sow winter squash seeds indoors in a fluffy seed starting mix about 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. Use a seedling heat mat to keep the soil warm and a grow light to provide ample bright light, and don’t forget to harden them off before transplanting outdoors! (See more indoor seed starting tips here). 

HOT TIP: Squash seedlings do not like their roots disturbed (often said to “not transplant well”) so it’s important to not let the seedlings get too crowded, large, or root bound when started indoors. To combat that, we start squash seeds in reusable 4-inch pots or 6-inch pots, and only one seedling per pot. That way, they have plenty of room and do not need to be potted up or teased apart.  


DeannaCat's gloved hand is holding a winter squash seedling after it has been removed from its small pot. The root ball is fairly well covered in roots and is ready to be transplanted to the garden. Below is a raised bed of chard that will be changed out for winter squash.
A healthy little delicata squash seedling we started indoors. The roots are *just* starting to wind around though, so it was definitely time to transplant outdoors!


Types of Winter Squash to Grow


The most popular types of winter squash include pumpkins, butternut squash, delicata, spaghetti, and acorn squash. Yet there are numerous other kinds, and dozens of unique varieties within each of those categories. For example, Nutterbutter and Autumn Frost are two of our favorite butternut squash varieties to grow. Sugar pie pumpkins are ideal for baking, while varieties like Cider Jack are great for fall decor and carving. Varieties like cinderella and winter sweet squash are both gorgeous and delicious!

Most winter squash grows on long sprawling vines. Vining squash plants are indeterminate, meaning they will continue to grow larger, longer, and continue to produce fruit all the way up until frost. On the other hand, some winter squash are determinate or bush varieties, which stay more compact and bear most of their fruit over a concentrated, shorter period of time (much like zucchini). Bush varieties also tend to produce fewer squash per plant. Be sure to read plant descriptions to understand which type you’re growing!


See this list of 28 awesome winter squash and pumpkin varieties for more ideas and details.


A vine of a butternut squash plant, one small immature fruit is in the foreground which has just been pollinated as the flower is still attached to its blossom end. Beyond is a more mature butternut squash that is much further along in development. Grow winter squash for great yields of healthy food that stores well.
A great example of how some vining (indeterminate) squash just keep on producing! This Nutterbutter plant had many mature squash almost ready for harvest, but also continued to produce new baby fruit late into the season.
A birds eye view of a large amount of varying winter squash varieties. Some are orange, pink, green, blue, white, and combinations of all of the above.


Growing Requirements: Sun, Soil, Water, Fertilizer 


  • Sun: Winter squash grow best with full sun, or a location that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day.

  • Soil: Pumpkin and winter squash thrive in rich, loose, well-draining soil that’s been worked with organic matter (e.g. compost). Winter squash plants like mildly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8.

  • Water: Water winter squash enough to keep the soil moderately damp at all times – not soggy, not dry. The use of a simple soil moisture meter is a huge help! The larger the plants and fruit get, the more water they require. Use mulch around the base of the plant to aid in even moisture retention. 

     
  • Fertilizer: Pumpkin and winter squash are heavy feeders. To aid in robust fruit development, hard squash benefits from fertilizer with slightly more phosphorus than nitrogen (e.g. 4-6-2). Before planting, amend soil with well-aged compost and/or worm castings plus a slow-release organic fertilizer. We also like to add mycorrhizae to the planting hole to support root development. Later in the growing season, plan to feed your winter squash plants once or twice more with a light top-dressing of fertilizer and/or compost tea.


A raised garden bed full of butternut squash vines with many fruit of varying ripeness. Grow winter squash for abundant yields of tasty vegetables.
Two butternut squash plants in a 4×6 foot raised bed.


Spacing Requirements and Growth


Plant winter squash in a location with full sun, rich well-draining soil, and PLENTY of space to grow! Winter squash plants tend to get quite large, though the size varies depending on the cultivar and type (bush vs. vining), so check the spacing requirements for the specific variety you’re growing. 

Bush varieties stay more compact, great for small spaces. On the other hand, vining winter squash can grow anywhere from 3 to 15 feet long. Even more, a single plant will send off several vines in every direction, not just one single long vine. Winter squash plants also have extensive root systems, and don’t grow well when crowded or with competing plants within a couple feet.

You can grow winter squash in the ground pumpkin-patch style, or in raised beds and allow them to sprawl and spill over the sides of beds. In that case, you may want to place a small piece of cardboard (or other protective material) under squash or pumpkins that are sitting directly on the soil to prevent rot or insect damage. Or, save space by growing vining winter squash vertically up a trellis – explored below.


A two way image collage, the first image shows an open garden bed with four winter squash seedlings spaced evenly apart throughout. The second image shows the same raised bed 6 weeks later, the plants have completely grown in, covering the bare soil that we previously visible in the bed.
May 1st vs June 14th. This year I put 4 vining winter squash per 4×8′ bed. Things will definitely get a little crowded, but I’ll direct the vines to flow down the sides of the bed.
A green lean-to trellis is set up on the end of a raised bed. A smaller winter squash plant is starting to grow towards and onto the trellis.
In addition to a classic vertical trellis or arched arbor, you can also grow winter squash over an A-frame trellis like this. It could be set fully inside the bed, or like we do, hung off one end of the bed. That way, we can plant a couple squash towards the end of the bed, direct the vines towards the trellis, and still have space in the rest of the bed for other plants. We grow cucumbers this way too!


Growing Winter Squash Vertically on Trellises 


Vining winter squash are easy to grow vertically up trellises, obelisks, or other support structures. With small tendrils that curl and grasp, pumpkin and squash vines are natural climbers. Winter squash looks especially whimsical and dramatic hanging from arched trellises and arbors. You can make your own trellis with cattle panel or wire fencing, or buy a pre-made arched trellis.

In addition to saving loads of space, trellising winter squash and pumpkins offers a number of benefits. Increased airflow among the foliage reduces the prevalence of disease and pests. Elevating the fruit makes them less susceptible to rot, pests, or discoloration from sitting on the ground. It also makes everything easier to see and maintain. Finally, trellised squash vines can help create shade to grow less heat-tolerant crops below, such as lettuce or other leafy greens. 

Yet as the squash become very large and heavy, there is a slight risk that the vines can get damaged or even break under the weight of the fruit. Therefore, some gardeners create slings or other supports to help cradle mature fruit as it hangs. Some clever examples of ways to support hanging squash include using pieces of old t-shirts, panty hose, mesh netting, twine slings, or even these specialized pumpkin hammocks.


Large round arches are lined one after the next on the way to a glassed in sun room. The first trellis is covered in vining winter squash with orange pumpkin type squash hanging from the vines.
A stunning display of pumpkins growing up Gracie moongate trellises (they’re fantastic, we have one in our new orchard) at Cornerstone Sonoma gardens.
A winter squash plant being trained vertically up a trellis, a few rows of lettuce are growing below. You can grow winter squash in tight spaces by using a trellis.
A simple vertical squash trellis. Learn how to make a sturdy DIY trellis here.


Hand Pollinating Winter Squash and Pumpkins


Without proper pollination, small squash fruit will start to grow but then fail to develop and shrivel, rot, or fall off the vine. So, it may be necessary to hand-pollinate winter squash flowers – which is easy to do! Simply collect some pollen from an open male flower and transfer it to the center of an open female flower. We usually use a small paintbrush, though a q-tip works as well. You only need to pollinate each squash/female flower once. See the photos below, and learn more about hand-pollinating squash here.

Don’t worry if your winter squash only has male or female flowers at first. That’s common for young plants; the ratio will even out as the plant matures. Plus, you may not want to pollinate the very first squash or two that appears anyways (especially if the plant is still quite small) since that will make the plant focus its energy on developing fruit instead of growing larger in size first.   


A four way image collage, the first image shows the inside of a squash blossom that has three squash bees collecting pollen. The second image shows a small butternut squash that has just opened its flower to be pollinated. The third image shows a male squash flower, the fourth image shows a the inside of a male squash flower.
Female squash blossoms have a baby fruit at the base and bulbous stigma inside, while male blossoms have a plain straight stem and pollen-covered anther inside. Use a small paintbrush, q-tip, or gently peel open the male flower to transfer pollen into the center of female flower.


Can you grow winter squash in a pot?


Yes, it’s possible to grow winter squash and pumpkins in containers. Yet due to their large size and high water and nutrient demand, winter squash performs best in big pots. Choose a container that is at least 20 to 24 inches deep and wide, or holds at least 15 or 25 gallons of soil. Half wine barrels are perfect! Also ensure the container has plenty of drainage holes, and is filled with high quality potting soil amended with compost. Otherwise, the other growing tips covered in this article apply to potted pumpkins and winter squash too!


Disease and Pest Control


Winter squash and pumpkins are prone to a number of diseases including powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spot, and blight. Powdery mildew is arguably the most common fungal disease that affects winter squash, which appears as irregular white fuzzy spots on the leaves. Mildew isn’t usually fatal to plants, but should still be kept in check. One easy option is to grow varieties that are naturally resistant to powdery mildew. Learn other organic ways to prevent and control powdery mildew in this guide. 

A number of pest insects are attracted to winter squash and pumpkins too. The primary culprits are squash bugs, aphids, and the dreaded squash vine borer. Click on any of the pest names to learn how to control them. Some varieties of squash are naturally resistant to pests, while others are highly susceptible. For instance, blue hubbard squash attracts so many squash bugs and vine borers that it’s often used as a trap crop! In contrast, acorn squash, butternut squash and “cheese pumpkins” are highly resistant to squash vine borers due to their hard stems.

Larger critters may also want a taste of your precious winter squash. Birds may go after young seedlings and tender new growth, while gophers are drawn to eating the roots. Deer, rabbits, rats, squirrels, and other rodents may eat the fruit or foliage. To protect plants, consider using hoops and row covers as needed. We use these chicken wire cloches to cover the plants while they’re still small, and durable gopher baskets to shield the rootball of in-ground plants.


A raised garden bed full of young seedlings that are covered with wire cloches to protect the plants from birds. There are also flowers planted along the edges of the raised beds.
Protecting young squash plants from birds with our favorite chicken wire cloches.
A birds eye view of the top of a growing hard squash plant, it has white veins contrasting the green leaves.
Note that some squash varieties have harmless natural white spots (variegation) on their leaves too, like this healthy Autumn Frost butternut. This isn’t mildew! Learn how to tell the difference here.


Cold Hardiness: Will winter squash survive frost?


Winter squash isn’t cold hardy. Frost will damage the leaves and fruit, and a hard freeze can kill the plant. In an unexpected frost, protect the plants with frost cover, blankets, or other insulating material (though damage could still occur). It’s important to harvest pumpkins and winter squash intended for longer-term storage before frost, because frost will damage their protective rind and compromise shelf life. Hard squash with frost damage should be harvested within a day or two, stored in the refrigerator, and used or preserved within a week.


A butternut squash on the vine, it has endured a light frost so there are some mild, almost bruise looking spots on the skin which will make the fruit not store as well as normal.
Butternut squash with mild frost damage to the skin after an unexpected cold snap. This one was eaten right away!


When to Harvest Winter Squash and Pumpkins


The time it takes for winter squash to mature depends on the variety you’re growing, ranging from 60 to 120 days to maturity. As harvest time draws near, the leaves will start to turn brown and die back. The stem of a ripe squash should also turn more tan instead of green, and the skin will usually change color.

To check if winter squash is ready for harvest, use the “thumbnail test”: gently poke the skin with your fingernail, and if the skin easily pierces or dents, it’s not ready. Once the skin is tough and dense enough to resist puncture by the thumbnail test, it’s ready. 

Many gardeners wait to harvest winter squash long past they’re technically “ready”, once the vines completely die back but before frost arrives. It’s best to leave winter squash on the vine to mature as long as possible, where it will continue to ripen, develop in flavor, and improve the longevity of shelf life post-harvest. 


How to Harvest Winter Squash


To harvest winter squash, use sharp garden shears to cut the firm stem. Leave a good length of stem connected to the squash, but take care not to cut the vine itself. Avoid breaking the stem off, as this will cause the squash to rot more quickly. If any fruit is cracked, bruised, missing stems, or otherwise damaged, eat those first. Wash off excess dirt, but make sure to thoroughly dry the squash before storage. 


A raised garden bed that contains two butternut squash plants that have all but died back, many butternut squash are still attached to the withering and browning vines. Grow winter squash to have a healthy harvest of vegetables that store for months.
Most of these butternuts are ready for harvest, I was just letting them sit on the vine as long as possible.
Aaron is holding a wicker basket full of freshly harvested butternut squash. His  foot is resting on the corner of a raised garden bed that contains chard and cabbage.


Curing and Storing Winter Squash


Though you can eat and enjoy your winter squash at any time, many varieties benefit from additional resting time to ripen off the vine, where they become more sweet and flavorful over the months to come. 

Immediately after harvest, spread your winter squash out in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Some folks “cure” the squash in a warmer spot (80 to 85 degrees F) for several days before moving it to a cooler location, especially if they feel it was harvested a tad immaturely.

Pumpkins and winter squash store best long-term in a cool, dark, airy location – about 50 to 60°F and 50-70% humidity. We keep ours in a closet under the stairs that stays about 60-65. Avoid storing winter squash in extra-cold damp root cellars or basements. Ideally, keep the squash in a single layer rather than piled on top of one another. 

The time winter squash lasts in storage depends on a number of factors: the variety, maturity at harvest time, and storage conditions. Most winter squash should easily last 2 to 3 months, and many much longer. For example, we were eating good butternut squash this May that was harvested the previous October – over 7 months later! Periodically check your squash stash, and use the ones that are getting wrinkled or soft first.


The top two shelves of a wire rack shelving unit is shown with wicker baskets on the top shelf while the second shelf has butternut squash spaced throughout the shelf for curing.
Curing butternut in a warm room for a few days post-harvest, before moving to a cooler dark location.
A wooden storage rack with 6 shelves contains a variety of vegetables on each rack. Winter squash, onions, and potatoes are each arrange on different shelves throughout the rack.
Since we’re growing more winter squash than ever this year, I am definitely going to invest in this awesome harvest storage rack from Gardener’s Supply this fall! They also have a taller 9-shelf version. I can’t wait.


Recipes: How to Prepare and Eat Winter Squash


Winter squash are most often roasted or used in baking, such as pumpkin sweet bread or butternut squash pie. Yes, you read that right – butternut squash pie! Similar in texture and flavor, many winter squashes can be used interchangeably with pumpkin in recipes – especially butternut, kabocha, and hubbard types. 

The easiest way to roast winter squash is to cut it in half (from stem to bottom), scoop out the guts and seeds, and roast the halves whole. You can roast them face-up with a sprinkle of seasonings, oil, or butter in the hollow cavity, or roast them flesh-side down. I also like to carefully peel and cut butternut into bite-size cubes or “french fries”, toss them in olive oil and seasonings, and bake them like potatoes. 

We also love to use butternut squash in soup, like this creamy roasted butternut squash soup with sage, or add cubed chunks to our favorite kale lentil soup recipe. We also make a killer vegan roasted sugar pie pumpkin 3-bean chili (and often substitute butternut in that recipe too). Or, try our seasoned rice stuffed acorn squash recipe!

Delicata squash has exceptionally thin, edible skin, so peeling isn’t necessary. This makes it especially popular for quick and easy preparation, and even used on salads. Once cooked, spaghetti squash flesh pulls apart into long “noodles” – a fun one for adults and kids alike! 

Last but not least, don’t forget the winter squash seeds are edible too! Learn how to make the most crunchy, delicious and nutritious soaked and roasted pumpkin seeds here (or other hard squash).


A four way image collage, the first image shows a baked butternut "pumpkin" pie sitting in a glass pie container. The second image shows 4 halves of butternut squash cut lengthwise sitting face up on a baking sheet. They have been roasted in the oven and contain caramelized brown and black spots throughout the flesh. The third image shows two slices of pumpkin bread sitting on a small white plate, beyond is the rest of the pumpkin bread sitting on a wire cooling rack. The fourth image shows a metal bowl full of cubed butternut squash that are sitting amongst fresh herbs like oregano, sage, and thyme. Grow winter squash to create a variety of delicious homemade meals.
Drooling yet?
The roasted pumpkin chili is shown garnished with avocado slices and cilantro leaves. Surrounding the bowl in a decorative fashion are halves of roasted pumpkin, slices of sourdough bread as well as half of the remaining loaf, half an avocado, sprigs of cilantro, and sprigs of oregano.
Even meat-eaters love our vegan roasted pumpkin chili!


Preserving Winter Squash or Pumpkin


The best way to preserve winter squash and pumpkin is to roast, puree, and then freeze it. Then use your homemade squash puree in any recipe that calls for canned pumpkin, including in baking, soups, stew and more. See the easy instructions here. Winter squash and pumpkin can also be pressure canned.


DeannaCat is holding a pint mason jar full of homemade pumpkin puree. It is vibrant orangish yellow in color, in the background there are two more pints of the pumpkin puree along with a few pumpkin seeds scattered about.
Learn how to make and freeze roasted pumpkin (or winter squash) puree here.


Feeling excited about squash yet?


Well friends, I hope you’re feeling as pumped about growing winter squash as I am now. They really are so beautiful and fun to grow – and eat! Not to mention winter squash it absolutely loaded with antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and fiber. We didn’t even touch on all the health benefits they provide! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and pin or share this post if you found it useful.


You may also enjoy:



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Determinate vs Indeterminate Plants: Important Differences to Know https://homesteadandchill.com/determinate-vs-indeterminate-plants-difference/ https://homesteadandchill.com/determinate-vs-indeterminate-plants-difference/#respond Fri, 09 Jun 2023 22:05:50 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2059819 Tomatoes, beans, cucumbers, squash... Come learn the important differences between determinate and indeterminate plants - including how they grow, training tips, and popular varieties of bush and vining tomatoes.

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Have you ever read a plant description and wondered what the word “determinate” or “indeterminate” means, and what the difference is? Then you’ve come to the right place to learn. It’s important to understand these gardening terms because indeterminate and determinate plants grow very differently – so you’ll plant, train, and harvest from them differently in your garden too! That’s especially true for tomatoes, so be sure to read the section on growing bush vs vining tomatoes towards the end of this post.



Background


Throughout time, plants have evolved and developed different strategies to spread their seed for future generations. The indeterminate plants sprawled out with long vines and many flushes of fruit to routinely scatter seed around the mother plant. Determinate plants put all of their “eggs” in one large, delicious, bountiful basket of fruit, hoping to lure in birds and other critters to help spread seeds. Over time, humans have selectively cultivated plants based on these growth and fruiting characteristics to suit our needs.


Determinate vs Indeterminate Growth in Plants


Botanically speaking, indeterminate growth keeps on going throughout a plant’s lifetime, while determinate growth is finite. 

An indeterminate (ID) plant will continue to grow larger and taller, and bear a steady, continuous supply of fruit to harvest over a longer period of time. Indeterminate growth is often synonymous with vining plant varieties, such as vining tomatoes or vining pole beans. Each stem ends in a growing tip, and will usually keep on growing and producing until frost comes along. Due to their sprawling nature, indeterminate plants often need some sort of trellis or support system.

In contrast, determinate (D) plants are more compact, bushy, and short-lived in nature. They generally have one main growth spurt, reach a certain size, and then yield a single large set of fruit all at once (or during a short period of time). Once a mature determinate plant has produced its main “bumper crop”, the plant will drastically slow down in production or stop growing entirely. Bush tomatoes and bush green beans are prime examples of determinate plants.


A close up image of some Dragon Tongue green beans growing form a bean plant.
Dragon tongue bush beans are determinate – small, bushy, and short-lived.
A trellis of green beans is set up against the wall of a house, various calendula flowers, chard, and borage are growing throughout the space. Bush beans are determinate while they pole beans that are being trellised are indeterminate.
Vining pole beans (indeterminate) need the support of a trellis, and will continue to produce more beans all season long.


Examples of Indeterminate and Determinate Plants


In the garden, the terms indeterminate (vining) and determinate (bush) are most commonly used to describe the growth habits of different tomato varieties. See tips about how to grow and train each type of tomato below. Many other types of plants can fall into these two categories as well.

Other common indeterminate plants include eggplant, peppers, melons, and peas. Eggplant and peppers are especially long-lived, and can even be overwintered as perennials.

Cucumbers, beans, potatoes, and squash can be either determinate OR indeterminate depending on the cultivar. Just like tomatoes, there are “bush” cucumber varieties vs vining cucumbers. Summer squash like bush zucchini are determinate (though they produce over many months), while vining winter squash varieties are more indeterminate and take longer to mature. Both early and mid-season potato varieties grow like determinates, while late-season potatoes are considered indeterminate and bear longer.

Generally speaking, annuals tend to follow a more determinate pattern of growth while perennials are more indeterminate in nature. 


A large eggplant bush is growing in a raised bed, its long purple fruits are hanging down the side of the raised bed as the plant is heavy with fruit.


Pros and Cons 


Indeterminate varieties bear more fruit overall, but offer prolonged, staggered, and more manageable harvests. This makes them popular among home gardeners. Most folks likely prefer a slow and steady harvest of tomatoes all summer long, rather than having to deal with pounds and pounds of fruit maturing all at once! Though indeterminate plants grow larger and longer, they can easily be trained vertically up space-saving trellises.

On the other hand, determinate plants mature faster, and “come and go” more quickly in the garden. This makes them ideal to use in succession planting, places with short growing seasons, or as short-lived fillers between other plants or seasons (especially things like bush beans or zucchini). The bumper crop provided by determinate plants is also excellent for canning or preserving a lot at once.

Determinants are more compact, making them great for small spaces and container gardens. They don’t require elaborate support structures, though some may benefit from a simple cage or stake to keep the plants upright. Determinate crops can also be attractive in commercial agriculture settings, enabling mechanical harvests all at the same time. 


A chart that describes the differences between indeterminate and determinate plant types.
DeannaCat's hand is holding a large, plump, red fruit from a determinate tomato plant. A wicker basket and two wooden bowls are below containing both determinate and indeterminate tomato varieties that are dark red, green lighter red and come in various shapes and sizes.
We primarily grow indeterminate tomatoes, along with a couple determinate varieties each year – like this beautiful Mountain Merit (D) tomato!


What are semi-determinate plants?


Some crops (including tomatoes, beans, squash and peas) can be semi-determinate, and exhibit growth patterns somewhere between indeterminate and determinate. This category of plants usually boasts one large bounty of fruit, but can be coaxed into continued production by routinely harvesting their fruits – which frees up energy and signals the plant to produce more. Semi-determinate varieties will often grow bigger than determinate plants, but not nearly as large and sprawling as true indeterminates. Due to their decently long harvest window, I consider zucchini and summer squash semi-determinate. Celebrity and Moskvich are an example of semi-determinate tomatoes. 


Two raised beds with summer squash and winter squash are the focus with the words "summer squash" and "butternut squash" superimposed by the corresponding raised beds. A wall of tomatoes are growing in the background in two raised beds beyond.
Our garden in September. Vining winter squash will grow and produce until frost stops them (like the butternut squash in the foreground) while bushy summer squash slow in production and fizzle out sooner. The summer squash in the bed on the left is actually the second round we grew that season. We usually succession plant summer squash in late March to early April, and another round in July.


Growing Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes


When it comes to tomatoes, it’s paramount to know if you’re growing indeterminate or determinate varieties! Indeterminate (vining) tomatoes are by far the most common, though there are quite a few determinate tomato cultivars available too – sometimes referred to as bush or patio tomatoes. The plant or seed description will usually specify which type it is, and may simply say (ID) or (D). See a list of popular varieties below.

Determinate or bush tomatoes are best grown in cages – like these sturdy DIY tomato cages. They’re ideal to grow in containers, in small patio gardens, or in places with short growing seasons. Determinate tomatoes should not be pruned, since they only have a finite amount of growth and fruit to bear! 

Conversely, indeterminate tomatoes can be trained or pruned in a number of ways. Training and pruning indeterminate tomatoes offers a number of benefits, including improved fruit quality, reduced disease prevalence, and saving space. Or, you can simply let vining tomatoes grow wild and unpruned in a large cage like determinants. See this guide to learn 7 ways to train and prune tomatoes, including our favorite DIY tomato trellis system. 


At least three raised beds are in view, each of the beds containing tomatoes, some indeterminate and some determinate. The indeterminate tomatoes are growing in two raised beds with wooden a frame trellis, the raised bed has determinate tomatoes growing in cages. Marigolds, basil, and zinnia are growing in and around the tomatoes in the raised beds.
We moderately prune and train our indeterminate tomatoes up these awesome DIY tomato trellises, and in another bed, let our determinate tomatoes grow wild, bushy, and unpruned in homemade cages.


Determinate and Indeterminate Tomato Varieties 


Determinate tomato varieties include: Mountain Merit (our favorite), Plum Regal Roma, Red Racer, Plum Perfect, Mountain Princess, Tasti Lee, Iron Lady, Gold Nugget, Washington Cherry, and Bush Early Girl – among others.

Indeterminate tomato varieties include: Pink Boar, Cherokee Purple, Brandywine, San Marzano Roma, Amish Paste, Green Zebra, Rose de Berne, Valentine, Mountain Magic, Granadero, Beefsteak, Better Boy, and most cherry tomato varieties. Sakura is our favorite variety of cherry tomato.


An image of a tomato that has been trellised to create a wall of green plant material and fruit. Many ripe red tomatoes are visible along with some green tomatoes as well as some in between.
Sakura tomatoes – my favorite cherry


And that’s a wrap! As you a can see, there are a lot of important differences between determinate vs indeterminate plants. They both have their benefits, so we like to grow some of each. Please feel free to ask any questions in the comments below, and share this article if you found it useful! Thank you so much for tuning in today, and happy growing.


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Tomato Blossom End Rot: Myths, Prevention and Treatment https://homesteadandchill.com/tomato-blossom-end-rot/ https://homesteadandchill.com/tomato-blossom-end-rot/#comments Wed, 31 May 2023 17:50:01 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2059424 Come learn all about tomato blossom end rot, including what really works to prevent and stop it - and what doesn’t! Then you can enjoy a bounty of healthy, juicy, rot-free tomatoes this summer. The tips apply to peppers, eggplant and squash too!

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Got rot? Blossom end rot is a common issue that affects tomato plants – along with peppers, eggplant, cucumber, squash, and melons to a lesser degree. Yet there are a lot of misconceptions and myths floating around about how to treat or prevent blossom end rot! Add eggshells, use epsom salts, dance a special jig… (Don’t do those things, they won’t work).

Instead, read along to learn all about tomato blossom end rot – including what really works to stop it, and what doesn’t! We’ll explore tips about fertilizer, irrigation, mulch, resistant varieties, growing tomatoes in containers, and more. Then you can sit back and enjoy a bounty of healthy, juicy, rot-free tomatoes this summer. 


What is tomato blossom end rot?


Blossom end rot (BER) is a disorder that causes black, leathery, rotten spots on tomatoes. It occurs on the bottom end of the fruit (opposite of the stem) where the blossom was once attached – hence the name. In addition to being unsightly, BER reduces the quality and quantity of fruit grown. As the condition worsens, mold may also start to grow on the sunken black lesions.

Blossom end rot can also affect peppers, eggplant and zucchini, but tomatoes are more susceptible. Plus, the primary cause of end rot in zucchini (or other squash) is usually a lack of pollination, which is not the case for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. Learn how to hand-pollinate squash to prevent end rot here! Finally, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant are also susceptible to sunburn or sun-scalding – where direct sun during extreme heat causes similar lesions on the fruit – which is sometimes confused with BER.


A hand is tipping a fruit hanging from a tomato plant to show the blossom end rot on the bottom of the tomato.


What causes blossom end rot in tomatoes?


Blossom end rot is a physiological disorder caused by inadequate nutrients, stress and growing conditions – not by a disease, fungus, virus, or bacteria. This can be good news, because it’s often much easier to control and adjust growing conditions than pests or disease!

The primary cause of tomato blossom end rot is the insufficient calcium uptake by the plants, exacerbated by inconsistent water supply, poor irrigation practices, and stress. However, this doesn’t necessarily mean the soil is lacking sufficient calcium! It simply means the plants are not able to utilize it for fruit development as needed. Damage to plant roots (e.g. root pruning) and overly acidic soil can also lead to calcium deficiency and BER.

Consistent, even, deep watering enables tomatoes to uptake and distribute calcium throughout the plant’s vascular system. On the other hand, extreme fluctuations in soil moisture levels from drought conditions, underwatering, heavy rains, or overwatering prevents tomato plants from getting the calcium they need. Meaning, even if soil has adequate calcium (which it often does!) tomatoes may develop blossom end rot if they’re subject to irregular watering or root stress. Even brief changes in water supply can lead to BER.


A moisture meter is shown inserted into soil along the base of a tomato plant. The moisture meter is reading right in the middle of "moist" which is considered the best moisture level to be in.
When in doubt, a simple moisture meter can help you monitor your soil and tailor your irrigation practices. It may read more moist (or wet) immediately after watering, but the goal is to keep it in the middle “moist” range as consistently as possible.


Myths about tomato blossom end rot


  • Crushed eggshells do not prevent blossom end rot. I’m sure you’ve heard the old “put crushed eggshells in your tomato planting hole” hack, right? Truth be told, that won’t help. First of all, the type of calcium found in crushed eggshells (insoluble calcium carbonate) is incredibly difficult for plants to utilize. It’s bound and trapped within the shells. Grinding eggshells into a very fine powder makes the calcium somewhat more available, but still won’t help prevent BER if the other causes aren’t being addressed – such as wonky irrigation practices.

  • Epsom salts do not prevent tomato blossom end rot – and can actually make it worse! Like the eggshell hack, I often see recommendations to add epsom salts to the soil when planting tomatoes. Chemically speaking, epsom salts are made of magnesium sulfate and do not contain calcium. According to the University of Hawaii,  “the presence of excessive amounts of magnesium, sodium, or potassium in the soil interferes with calcium availability”. Therefore, adding epsom salts to soil can worsen calcium deficiency and BER! 


A bag of epsom salts and a bowl of eggshells are perched on a ledge of a raised in front of a row of tomatoes. Writing has been superimposed on the image that states "Epsom salts and crushed eggshells will NOT prevent blossom end rot".


Are tomatoes with blossom end rot still edible? 


Yes, it is safe to eat the remaining good portion of a tomato that has blossom end rot. Simply cut off the affected black portion and enjoy the rest! However, if the rot is advanced and mold has infiltrated the center of the tomato, toss it in the compost instead. Since it’s not caused by a disease, tomatoes with blossom end rot do not pose a risk to your compost pile. 


7 Ways to Prevent Blossom End Rot in Tomatoes


Now let’s talk about 7 ways to prevent blossom end rot in tomatoes, followed by ways to treat or stop it once it starts. The following tips apply to preventing BER in squash, eggplant, peppers, cucumbers, or melons. Keep reading below for tips on BER and potted tomatoes too!


1) Amend Soil Before Planting 


It’s important to grow tomatoes in soil that is both well-draining, but also rich in organic matter and has good moisture retention properties. It’s all about balance! Amend heavy clay soil with bagged potting soil, compost, horticulture sand, small volcanic rock, pumice, or other amendments that promote better drainage. On the other hand, add plenty of well-aged compost, worm castings, and organic matter to sandy soil to improve moisture retention. (Learn about our raised bed soil blend here.)

Before planting tomatoes, amend garden soil with a well-balanced, slow release organic fertilizer like this – which contains plenty of calcium, along with essential macro and micronutrients too. Sprinkle it over the soil surface, lightly scratch it into the top couple inches, and then water it all in. 

At the time of planting, we also like to add a small sprinkle of crab meal (high in calcium) directly to the planting hole below the tomato root ball, along with some worm castings and mycorrhizae – explained more below. Both help to support healthy root growth and nutrient uptake! 


A half teaspoon measurement of mycorrhizae is held above a planting hole with a tomato seedling, root ball an all are laying next to the hole.
We always add a sprinkle of crab meal, worm castings, and mycorrhizae to our tomato planting holes.


2) Develop a Consistent Watering Schedule


Watering tomato plants consistently is the best way to prevent blossom end rot. Try to develop a regular watering schedule that will give the plants approximately the same amount of water and at a set interval of time. 

That doesn’t mean more water is better though! Nor should you water tomato plants daily. In fact, it’s better to water less often but deeply rather than providing short, shallow, frequent bouts of water. Deep regular water encourages tomato plant roots to grow deep into the soil, where moisture levels stay more consistent naturally! 

The amount you water your tomatoes will vary depending on your climate, soil type, and other unique circumstances. The goal is to water often enough to keep the soil evenly and consistently damp, not swinging between sopping wet and very dry. (See tips for watering potted tomato plants below.)

Using an automated drip irrigation system helps tremendously! For instance, we run our raised bed drip irrigation system for 60 minutes twice per week early in the season (when spring weather is fairly cool and the plants are still small) and increase to 75 minutes twice per week as the plants mature and require more water. 

If you can’t set up a drip system, I highly recommend looking into GrowOya self-watering clay vessels. Before we had drip, we’d bury a couple ollas in the center of our raised beds to deliver slow, even moisture – and offset the frequency we needed to hand water! Code “deannacat” will save 5% off.


A raised garden bed with equally spaced drip tape lines is shown, planted out with lettuce seedlings that are equally covering the square footage of the raised bed.
Learn how to set up drip irrigation in raised garden beds using drip tape in this tutorial, or how to connect an easy drip irrigation system right to a hose faucet here. Videos included!
A four way image collage showing how a clay vessel (GrowOya) can be used to irrigate soil. The first image shows the clay vessel sitting on the soil surface next to newly planted tomato seedlings. The second image shows a hole dug into the soil with the clay vessel sitting inside the hole. The third image shows a close up of the neck of the clay vessel as it is being filled with water. The fourth image shows the clay vessel sitting inside the hole in the raised bed, in between three tomato seedlings.
Our old garden, before we had automated drip. Here we buried a large GrowOya between 3 tomato plants. Fill the vessel with water, and it slowly seeps out over a number of days as the soil needs it! We had two large ollas per 4×8′ bed, two mediums per 7×3′ bed, etc. See the sizing guide on the GrowOya website, and use code “deannacat” to save 5%.


3) Use Mulch


Mulch, mulch, mulch! (Louder for the folks in the back!) Mulch is essential in preventing tomato blossom end rot, especially in hot climates. Along with suppressing weeds and insulating roots against temperature swings, one of the key functions of mulch is to reduce moisture fluctuations. By covering exposed soil, mulch reduces evaporation, prevents the top of the soil from drying out, and keeps soil more evenly damp below. Mulch also reduces the frequency and amount you have to water!

To mulch tomato plants, apply an approximately 2-inch thick layer of mulch in a wide circle around the base of the plant – or mulch the entire bed. But avoid piling mulch up directly around plant stems.

There are a number of organic garden mulch options including straw, wood chips, compost, cardboard, newspaper, pine needles, and more. In vegetable garden beds, we prefer to use a combination of compost mixed with a fine woody “soil building conditioner”. Learn more about the pros and cons of 8 types of mulch here. 


A hand is being used to pull aside the mulch surrounding a tomato plant, revealing a line of drip tape below. Consistent moisture will help prevent blossom end rot.
It’s been a couple days since watering. When I pull back the top layer of mulch, I can see the top of the soil is still nicely damp.


4) Use Mycorrhizae


Have you heard of mycorrhizae? It’s amazing stuff! Mycorrhizae is a beneficial fungus that colonizes plant roots. It acts like an extension of the plant’s root system, increasing access and use of valuable resources within the soil – including water, nutrients, and even air. In turn, this helps plants grow larger, healthier, and more productive than ever! Plants with robust root systems are also more resilient to stress and drought. Because mycorrhizae can aid in calcium uptake, it can also help prevent BER.

Use mycorrhizae to prevent tomato blossom end rot by sprinkling granular mycorrhizae in the planting hole (or directly on the root ball) at the time of transplanting. Be sure to apply it in direct contact with the roots and water it in after! Another option is to water tomato plants with water-soluble mycorrhizae after planting. 


A watering can of water soluble mycorrhiaze is being used to water the soil surrounding a newly transplanted seedling.
Even if you forget to add granular mycorrhizae to the planting hole, you can always use a water soluble version to water in after!


5) Test Soil pH


Overly acidic soil can impede calcium uptake, leading to calcium deficiency and BER. The ideal soil pH range to grow tomatoes and prevent blossom end rot is 6.2 to 6.8 (slightly acidic).  While it’s pretty uncommon for most garden soil to be too acidic for tomatoes, use a pH meter to check soil acidity levels when in doubt. This pH meter also measures moisture levels!

If your soil is below 5.5, consider using an organic lime product to slightly raise the pH and prevent blossom end rot. Wood ash also naturally raises soil pH and contains numerous beneficial nutrients, including calcium. 



6) Apply Mid-Season Fertilizer


Young tomato plants won’t need additional fertilizer for a couple months after transplanting, especially if the soil was amended prior to planting. Yet as they begin to mature and bear a lot of fruit, tomato plants will appreciate additional fertilizer to help them keep growing strong later in the season. 

For an added boost of nutrients, we typically feed our tomatoes with compost tea and/or alfalfa meal tea once a month (in the later summer months). Another easy alternative is to sprinkle organic alfalfa meal around the base of each plant, water it in, and repeat once per month. 


A wall of tomatoes being trained up a vertical trellis are shown. Many green and ripe red fruits are visible amongst the green foliage. A few basil plants are in front of the tomato wall growing quite well.
Mature plants like this will appreciate a little extra fertilizer to keep them growing strong. Learn how we train our tomatoes with an awesome DIY trellis system here.


7) Grow BER Resistant Tomato Varieties


A final option is to select and grow tomato varieties that are resistant to blossom end rot. Better Boy, Celebrity, Early Girl, Big Beef, Mountain Pride, Fresh Pak and Jet Star are a few examples of popular BER resistant tomato varieties that may be available at local garden centers. They aren’t 100% immune, but are far less susceptible to developing BER than most heirloom cultivars. If you’re growing from seed, read plant descriptions carefully. Unfortunately, Roma and paste varieties of tomatoes are especially prone to blossom end rot.

Personally, I would focus on getting my soil, nutrients, and water situation figured out first (because there are SO many other fun tomato varieties to grow!) – but this is a great option for folks who consistently struggle with BER despite all other efforts.


Growing Tomatoes in Containers and Blossom End Rot


Growing tomatoes in containers poses a unique challenge for avoiding blossom end rot. Some containers dry out very quickly, while others are prone to staying quite soggy. In general, potted plants typically need more frequent water than those growing in-ground or raised beds. Larger containers are better at retaining even moisture, while smaller pots tend to dry out fast.

First, ensure that your container has holes and good drainage. Next, be sure to use a soil mix that is made for containers (such as potting soil, amended with compost and/or worm castings) to help promote even moisture retention. Then, all of the other tips we’ve explored today also apply to potted tomato plants.

To prevent blossom end rot in potted tomato plants, I highly recommend using a moisture meter to monitor soil and adjust your watering schedule accordingly. Clay self-watering spikes can also help slowly deliver water to potted plants over a longer period of time, reducing undesirable moisture fluctuations. Following the same idea, a small GrowOya self-watering vessel will fit in large containers (such as a 5 to 15 gallon pot, whiskey barrel or half wine barrel) and also offers slow, steady, even water.

You could also consider growing tomatoes in this handy self-watering tomato pot.


A hand is holding a small clay vessel that holds water while letting it steep into the soil when buried as the soil needs it. Even and consistent moisture will help fight blossom end rot in your garden.
This is a medium GrowOya, which we often put inside our half wine barrel planters to help slowly deliver water to the soil. The small version fits in smaller pots, and the large ones are ideal for raised beds! Use code “deannacat” to save 5% off GrowOyas here!


Treating Blossom End Rot


Can blossom end rot be stopped or fixed once it starts?


Yes and no. Blossom end rot cannot be reversed in the fruit that have already started to show signs of rot – but the plant itself can be saved! If the plant’s calcium deficiency and irregular irrigation practices are quickly corrected, blossom end rot can be stopped to prevent the next round of fruit from getting it during the same growing season. And after reading this article, you’ll also know how to prevent BER in the future!


How to treat blossom end rot once it starts


To stop and correct blossom end rot, first assess your watering practices. Do your best to develop a more regular irrigation schedule that will reduce extreme moisture fluctuations in the soil (as we already explored above). That alone should help stop blossom end rot significantly. And don’t forget to mulch!

Next, there are a few ways to correct calcium deficiency and reverse blossom end rot.
Options include:

  • Amend the soil with a high-calcium organic fertilizer, such as crab meal or crustacean meal. Sprinkle it around the base of the plant, lightly scratch it in, and then water well. You can also create a mild liquid calcium fertilizer by soaking dry finely-ground eggshells in water for several days, then dilute by 50% and water plants with it.

  • For an even faster, better boost of calcium, consider using a water soluble calcium foliar spray. Rather than waiting for the nutrients to travel through the soil and root system, foliar sprays absorb right into the leaves and plant’s vascular system. Learn how to make a calcium foliar spray with pulverized eggshells and vinegar here. The acid in the vinegar works to “unlock” the calcium in the eggshells, significantly better than water!

  • Water struggling plants with water soluble mycorrhizae to increase overall nutrient availability and uptake. 

  • Test and adjust soil pH. Since overly acidic soil (below 5.5) can cause calcium deficiency in plants, use an organic lime product to raise pH to the ideal range (6.0 – 6.8) if needed. 


An outstretched hand has a large red tomato resting in the palm, below lies a wicker basket full of freshly harvested red tomatoes, some regular round varieties and a Roma shaped paste type.


Cheers to growing healthy, rot-free tomatoes!


All in all, I hope this was insightful and helps to shed some light on the truth about what really causes and prevents tomato blossom end rot. If you found this article useful, please consider pinning or sharing this post! Also feel free to ask questions in the comments below. Finally, don’t miss out on our other related tomato-growing tips, recipes, and more! Thank you so much for tuning in today, and have a great tomato season.


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How to Grow Artichokes: A Complete Guide with Photos https://homesteadandchill.com/how-to-grow-artichokes-complete-guide/ https://homesteadandchill.com/how-to-grow-artichokes-complete-guide/#respond Wed, 17 May 2023 19:04:57 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2058375 Come learn everything you need to know to successfully grow artichokes as annuals or perennials. With delicious edible heads, beautiful silvery foliage, and stunning unique flower blooms - you'll want them in your garden!

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Let’s talk about how to grow artichokes! With their delicious edible heads, beautiful silvery foliage, and stunning unique flower blooms, artichoke plants are definitely worthy of a spot in the garden! Artichokes can be grown as an annual, or as perennials in many zones.

This guide will explore everything you need to know to grow artichokes, including ideal growing conditions, popular artichoke varieties, how to start from seed, when and how to harvest artichokes, organic pest control, how to prune and divide artichoke plants, how to prepare and eat them, and more!

We grow artichokes to eat as well as an attractive ornamental in our landscape: tucked in raised beds, wine barrels, and in perennial beds with other pollinator plants. Artichokes will always hold a special place in my heart. Growing up, they were one of my favorite special meals that my Dad made for me. I always think of him when we harvest our own now. I wish he could try one… because homegrown chokes are the best!



What is an artichoke? 


Did you know that artichokes are part of the thistle plant family? More specifically, they’re a domesticated variety of the wild cardoon (Cynara cardunculus), which is native to the Mediterranean region. The edible portion that we’ve all come to love and enjoy is actually an immature thistle flower bud that hasn’t yet bloomed. And once they do bloom, artichoke flowers are absolutely stunning – and a favorite for pollinators! 

Artichokes are now grown far and wide, though they thrive in mild coastal climates. Fittingly, the temperate Central Coast of California is known as the artichoke capital of the world – especially Castroville and Watsonville. With its mild winters and cool foggy summers, the region produces nearly all of the artichokes commercially grown and sold in the country. 

Nutritionally, artichokes are rockstars! They’re rich in antioxidants, fiber, folate and vitamin C. They also offer a respectable amount of plant-based protein: 5 grams per cup! Artichokes contain natural probiotics, prebiotics, and inulin, meaning they’re excellent for gut health too.


A bee is nestled into the purple pistils from an artichoke bloom collecting pollen, if you grow artichokes, leave a few to flower for the pollinators.
Hello gorgeous! An artichoke flower in bloom. This head would no longer be edible.
A bee climbing the purple pistils of a blooming artichoke in search of pollen.
High in pollen, bees are always allll over ’em!


Artichoke Varieties


  • Green Globe is a classic artichoke variety; what you’re very likely to see in the grocery store or garden center. The plants produce 3 to 5 large, round artichoke buds that are 3 to 5 inches in diameter. Many Green Globe varieties have been improved to have less spines on their leaves. 120-180 days to mature from seed, depending on exact cultivar.
  • Imperial Star is another very common and popular artichoke variety. This includes Imperial hybrids like ‘Tavor‘: a highly-productive, virtually spineless artichoke variety. Imperial artichoke varieties produce 6 to 8 large, round green artichokes similar to green globe, and are often kissed with purple streaks. Imperial Star varieties are adapted to a broader range of climates (including more heat tolerance) than Green Globe. 85 to 90 days to maturity.

  • Violetto (aka Violetto di Romagna) is a purple artichoke variety. It produces abundant smaller, oval or elongated flower buds – about 3 inches wide and 5 inches long. They contain very little inedible fuzzy choke if harvested young and tight, though the leaf tips usually have spines. Hardy in zones 6 and above. 85 to 100 days to maturity. 


Beyond these few popular cultivars, there are dozens of other unique and less common artichoke varieties! We grow several different types, but one of our favorites is Wonder: a high-yielding, spineless, artichoke variety with large meaty hearts. (That’s what is shown in most of the photos in this post). Some gardeners report that purple artichoke varieties are more challenging to grow than green varieties; something to keep in mind for beginner’s. 


A wicker basket full of freshly harvest green artichokes. They are large, round, and tightly leafed.
Wonder artichokes, our current favorite variety to grow
A close up image of a purple artichoke growing on a silvery green stalk.
A purple globe artichoke


Are artichokes annuals or perennials?


Artichokes grow as perennials with ease in zones 7 through 11, where the plants can live for up to 8 years. In temperate climates with little-to-no frost (zones 9-10), artichoke plants will grow right through the winter! Otherwise, the above-ground portion of the plant is usually cut down for winter, but the roots survive under the soil and will re-grow fresh artichoke plants in spring. 

It’s also possible to grow artichokes as perennials in zones 5 and 6 if they’re offered additional protection during winter. For example, by planting artichokes in a sheltered location, moving a pot indoors, and providing ample deep mulch on top to insulate the roots during freezing conditions. 

Otherwise, artichokes are grown as annuals in lower zones. Folks with short growing seasons or those growing artichokes as annuals should look for fast-maturing varieties and ones known to produce well in their first year of growth, such as Imperial or Colorado Star.


DeannaCat is standing next to a raised bed full of mature artichoke plants. She is holding three harvested artichokes by the stems and the plants in the bed are about a foot taller than her.
2 year old artichoke plants that came back with a vengeance after being cut back


When to plant artichokes in the garden


Spring is the best time to plant artichokes in most places, and they’ll be ready for harvest by fall. Folks growing artichokes as perennials in zones 9 and 10 have a more flexible planting schedule, and can add artichokes to their garden essentially any time of year. In fact, fall planting is often recommended for zones 10 and 11. 

To grow artichokes from seed, the slow-growing seeds need to be started indoors in mid to late winter – 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost date in your area. On the other hand, buying seedlings will give you a great head start.

When grown as annuals, artichoke seedlings require a period of vernalization (a couple of weeks where temperatures are below 45°F, but above freezing) in order to produce edible flower buds that same year. So, plant artichoke seedlings outside in early spring when it’s still cool out, but protect them from frost! Alternatively, you can take artichoke seedlings outside (or to a cold place like your garage) to expose them to cool temperatures before planting. Perennial artichokes will be naturally vernalized each winter, so no further steps are needed.


A purple artichoke globe is emanating from the center of a silvery green plant. Its dark purple hue is quite a contrast to the silver green that surrounds it.


How much space do artichoke plants need?


Artichoke plants grow quite large – reaching 4 feet wide and 6 feet tall, or larger! Therefore, it’s best to space artichoke plants at least 3 to 4 feet apart. Since artichokes can be grown as perennials, make sure to plant them somewhere they can stay awhile. Artichokes grown as annuals will likely not get quite as large as perennials plants, so you may be able to get away with tighter spacing.

As the years go by, artichoke plants divide below the soil to produce more plants, forming clusters. They’ll eventually grow into very dense bushes, when you’ll want to carefully thin and divide them – and get free artichoke plants! Read more on pruning and dividing artichokes below. 


Two small artichoke plants growing amongst a raised bed of bachelors buttons, cosmos, chamomile, and sunflowers.
Two artichokes in their first year of growth (one hiding behind the flowers), spaced about 3-4 feet apart in opposite corners of a modest 3×5 foot bed.
A raised bed full of growing artichoke plants with artichoke globes emanating from the tops of the plants.
The next year, the bed is now overflowing with artichokes in their second year of growth. After they were cut back the first year, the plants regrew as clusters – which I thinned down to two stalks per cluster.
A raised bed with an arch trellis inserted into on end, the other half of the trellis is in another bed that is not pictured. Snapdragons, nasturtium, and artichoke plants are growing in the raised bed. Oak trees and open space are in the background.
The same bed a couple months later – after pruning and thinning some of the lower leaves, and some of the plants are leaning from the weight of their height and buds.


Can you grow artichokes in pots?


Yes, within reason. Because artichokes grow so large (and enjoy ample water), they perform best in raised beds or planted right in the ground. However, you can also grow artichokes in large containers such as half wine barrels, whiskey barrels, or other pots that are at least 18 inches deep and wide at minimum. The more room they have, the more healthy and prolific they will grow! Ensure the pot or container has drainage holes.


A half wine barrel is the focus with a younger artichoke plant growing in it. Beyond is a pollinator border with yarrow, lavender, salvia, scabiosa, and various other flowering plants.
A happy first-year artichoke plant in a wine barrel planter


Artichoke Growing Requirements: Sun, Soil, Water, Fertilizer


  • Sun: Artichokes thrive in full sun to partial shade, with at least 4 to 5 hours of direct sun per day.

  • Temperature: Artichokes do not like excessive heat, which can cause tough bitter chokes or premature flowering. Artichokes’ ideal growing temperature is between 60 and 80 degrees F. Gardeners in hot climates should plant artichokes in a location that receives afternoon shade, or offer protection via shade cloth if needed.
  • Soil: Artichokes grow best in fertile, well-draining soil. Amend soil with well-aged compost before planting, and add potting soil or horticultural sand to clay soil to increase drainage.

  • Water: Don’t be shy with water! Artichokes grow best with regular deep water, where the soil is maintained consistently moist. Without enough water, the plants will droop (especially in hot conditions) and the edible leaves will grow thin, tough, and papery… not nearly as tasty to eat! Large, established plants require more water than immature plants. Mulch around the base of plants to reduce evaporation, and insulate the roots from temperature swings.

  • Fertilizer: Artichoke plants are fairly heavy feeders. Add aged compost and organic matter to the soil, along with routine feedings via gentle organic fertilizer. We top-dress around the plants with a balanced slow-release organic fertilizer in spring and fall, plus water with compost tea a few times per year. 


A large plant with silvery green foliage and two purple globes growing out of the top of the plant is growing amongst yarrow, figs, jasmine, and an avocado tree.
Artichokes growing in partial shade


Growing Artichokes from Seed 


You can grow artichokes either from seed or buy seedlings (small plants) from the nursery. We’ve done a bit of both! One benefit of growing from seed is having more options to select the exact varieties you want to grow. However, artichoke seeds are very slow to germinate and grow, so starting from seed does take some planning and patience!

To grow artichokes from seed, sow seeds indoors during winter – about 10 to 12 weeks before your last spring frost date. Artichoke seeds take anywhere from 10 to 21 days to germinate or sprout. Because artichoke seeds have such slow and finicky germination, and need to be started so early, I don’t recommend direct sowing seeds outside.

Plant seeds 1/4″ deep in a light fluffy seedling soil mix. Sow two to three seeds per pot or cell to make up for poor germination. Put the seed trays in a warm location (70-80 F) under ample bright light. The use of a seedling heat mat and grow light is ideal for success! Keep the soil damp (not soggy) at all times during germination, and use a humidity dome to prevent the soil from drying out. After they sprout, thin the seedlings to one per cell or pot. Avoid overwatering. Be sure to harden off indoor-grown seedlings before transplanting them outside! Learn more seed starting best practices here.


A young artichoke plant is growing in a wine barrel next to a flowering chive plant.
A young artichoke seedling. Note the chive companion plant, explained more in the pest control section below!


How many artichokes does each plant produce?


Most artichoke varieties produce about 5 to 8 artichokes per plant. Some can produce up to a dozen or more! Each plant will produce a few large artichokes on a central branching stalk, along with several smaller secondary artichokes that grow from side shoots. 

Artichokes grown as perennials will often produce more (and higher quality) artichokes in their second, third, and following years compared to the first year they were planted. We’ve already harvested over 40 artichokes from 4 established plants this spring! After a spring harvest, you can encourage the production of a second fall harvest by pruning the plants down to the ground. 


An artichoke plant is in full view with a handful of green globes growing out of the top of tall stalks. A few are more elongated and starting to open slightly.
A close up of a baby choke growing out of the crotch of a stem.
More secondary chokes on the way


Organic Pest Control for Artichokes


Unfortunately, many pest insects seem to love artichokes just as much as we do! Therefore, growing artichokes may require a little TLC at times. But it’s not difficult to do – and well worth the effort! Thankfully, we’ve found that the more full and established the plants become, the less pest pressure there is per artichoke. Cutting back the plants each year also helps remove lingering pests or disease. 

The most common artichoke pests include aphids, pincher bugs or earwigs, and ants (who are attracted to the aphids). Gophers are also highly attracted to artichoke plants, so plan to use gopher baskets if needed. Finally, artichokes are susceptible to fungal diseases like powdery mildew, crown rot, botrytis rot or gray mold. 


A close up of an artichoke growing, the bottom few leaves are being pulled down by a few fingers from a hand to show the aphids hiding underneath the leaves. If you grow artichokes, be sure to check them for pests routinely.
Always check the base of the flower heads for pests – where they love to hide between leaf bracts.


How to get rid of aphids and earwigs on artichokes


It’s easiest to control pest infestations when caught early, so routinely check your plants! Aphids especially like to hide around the lower outer leaves around the artichoke buds (shown above) and on tender new leaf growth, including in the very center of the plant.

Fend off aphids and ants by blasting them away with water. Simply set your hose to a strong stream and spray away, including between and under leaves. Proceed to using a dilute aphid soap spray if that doesn’t work, which should be sprayed directly on the aphids and then rinsed off later. During peak aphid season, I spray my artichoke heads with water weekly. Learn more about organic aphid control here, including our DIY soap spray recipe. 

Companion planting can also help prevent or reduce the presence of pests. For example, earwigs supposedly hate dill, fennel, garlic, calendula, sweet alyssum and cilantro – so plant some near or below the artichoke plants! Sprinkling diatomaceous earth (DE) around the base of artichokes can also help deter earwigs. 

If your artichokes still end up a little buggy despite your best efforts, it’s not the end of the world! After harvest, soak and swirl artichokes in a bowl of cold water with a healthy dose of vinegar or lemon juice added. This will help dislodge many pests, and the acid also helps reduce bitterness. When I notice an artichoke bud is extra buggy (beyond saving) I simply let it bloom so we can all enjoy it – myself and bees included!


A garden hose nozzle is positioned in front of a growing green globe and is spraying the vegetable with a shower of water to knock off any aphids and ants that may be on it. Many leaves of the plant as well as other green globes are in the background. If you row artichokes, minor routine pest control is recommended.
To remove aphids, I always start with a good blast of water…
A three way image collage, the first image shows a hand holding part of a plant while using the other to foliar spray a specific part of the plant. The second image show a leaf that is covered in small black aphids. The third image shows the plant from afar, the sprayer being used to foliar spray the entire plant.
Then proceed to DIY soap spray if needed. This plant had a ton of aphids on the leaves before the heads even developed.


When and How to Harvest Artichokes 


The best time to harvest artichokes is when they’ve grown to a respectable size and feel firm, full, and tight, but before the heads/leaf bracts start to open and separate. It’s not the end of the world if you miss the prime harvest moment thought! We’ve eaten plenty that were just starting to loosen up a bit. Yet if left too long, the artichoke leaves and center will become increasingly tough, bitter, of full of inedible fuzzy choke. Eventually, the artichoke head will open and flower. 

To harvest artichokes, simply cut the stalk a couple inches below the flower bud using a sharp pair of garden shears. Remember that the first few artichokes will usually grow larger than the side shoots to follow. Yet both small and large artichokes are wonderful to eat. In fact, the smaller ones are often more tender, sweet, and “meaty” inside!

Here on the Central Coast of California, we can get a couple good flushes of artichokes per year. For instance, if we cut back the plants in late fall, they regrow over winter and bear fresh artichokes to harvest in spring. After that, we cut them down again to get another harvest in fall.


A birds eye view of two freshly harvested artichokes being held, one in each hand. One is a bit larger and more closed up than the smaller artichoke whose surrounding leaves are opening slightly.
Two artichokes ready for harvest. The one on the bottom was just starting to loosen and open, a sign it was ready and almost past its prime.
A garden shear is positioned below a beautiful green globe growing on the end of a thick stalk for harvest. The clear blue sky is visible in the background.


How to store artichokes after harvest


For maximum freshness, store artichokes in the refrigerator inside a plastic bag or other sealed container. They should stay firm, fresh, and good to eat for several weeks that way. Utilize the crisper drawer if they’ll fit! It’s best to not wash artichokes before storage, only at time of use.


Are artichokes frost tolerant?


Artichokes are tolerant of light frosts once established. When protected, the roots and crown can survive freezing conditions. The above-ground portion of the plant may be damaged in a hard freeze. Though artichoke seedlings need vernalization (chill hours) they are not nearly as hardy as mature plants and should be protected from frost – such as with frost cloth or cloches. 


Pruning and Overwintering Artichoke Plants


Prepare your artichoke plants for winter by cutting them back all the way to the ground after fall harvest. Or, leave just a couple inches of stalk above the soil. In climates expecting freezing conditions, cover the top of the roots and crown area with several inches of aged compost, followed by 6 inches of straw mulch for insulation. Well-mulched artichokes should be able to survive down to 14°F. If temperatures dip below 15°F, consider adding an upside down cardboard box, cooler, or frost cloth over the root area for added protection. 

Gardeners with mild, frost-free winters don’t necessarily have to cut their artichoke plants completely to the ground. However, we’ve found the plants respond very well to it! It removes dead leaves and stems, pests and fungal spores, and gives them a vigorous fresh start. 

I also like to routinely prune and remove some of the plant’s lower leaves as they naturally turn yellow and fade during the growing season. This also helps re-direct energy to the flower buds, increase airflow, and reduce the risk of disease.


A three way image collage, the first image shows new plant shoots coming out of the soil of a raised garden bed. The second image shows the young plants as they continue to grow, about 4-5 in all. The third image shows the same plants growing from a birds eye view above.
Artichokes regrowing after being cut down. This was just a single plant/stalk, and then it grew back about 5 new stalks in a cluster. I only let two continue to grow, and cut back the rest.
A raised bed with mature artichoke plants growing upwards of 3-4 feet tall. On the ground next to the raised beds sits a pile of artichoke leaves that have been pulled from the lower sections of the plants.
About once a month I remove lower leaves that are turning yellow or brown to clean up the plant and reduce crowding. The ones that are ready usually tear off easily.


When and How to Divide Artichoke Plants


Artichokes should be divided every 3 to 5 years. As artichokes grow, the root systems divide to form numerous crowns. Each crown grows a new plant, which can be allowed to grow in a cluster for the first few years. However, I thin them out if needed by cutting back all but two or three plants per cluster as they regrow after pruning. 

As time goes on, mature artichoke plants become overly crowded, reducing the quality and size of the heads. Dividing artichoke plants invigorates new fresh growth, and also creates free artichokes to plant elsewhere! Divide artichokes during the early spring or late fall, as summer dividing may cause excessive stress to the plants. You can do it when the plants are fully cut back or just starting to re-grow. 

To divide artichokes, start by brushing back the soil around the base of the plant so you can identify each offshoot (pup) in the root crown. Then use a shovel to firmly dig straight down between the offshoots to sever the roots between them. Next, carefully dig wide and deep around each pup, trying to keep a substantial root ball intact for each section. Finally, transplant the newly divided artichoke pup to a new location (preferably already amended and prepared in advance). Water well after transplanting.


Inside of a raised bed is shown, two mature plant trunks are shown amongst a smaller, younger plant that is tarting to grow from the crown.
Two mature artichoke stalks with a third new sprout emerging. We’ll cut back the mature ones soon (to the ground) and let the new one grow – along with another sprout or two that will emerge after the cut back. We’ll probably divide these plants next year.


Preparing Artichokes to Eat


There are a number of ways to cook and eat artichokes: steamed, boiled, roasted, grilled, stuffed and more! The prime edible portion is the thick fleshy part at the base of the leathery leaves (scraped off with your teeth), along with the tender inner leaves and heart. Steaming or boiling artichokes is the most simple and straightforward way to enjoy them. See a full tutorial on how to easily cook and eat artichokes here! We’ve been roasting/steaming our artichokes in the oven lately, explained in the photo caption below.

No matter the method, you’ll want to avoid eating the fuzzy, fibrous, pokey “choke” part in the center – located just above the heart. You can either halve the artichokes to cut it out or remove the choke part before cooking them, or leave artichokes whole and simply eat around it later. If they’re extra spiny, you may also want to trim off the tops of the leaves. But definitely enjoy eating the heart; that’s arguably the best part! 

You’ll often see lemon served alongside artichokes. One, because the bright acid helps to reduce any bitterness in the chokes. Two, because cooking with or rubbing lemon on artichokes helps reduce the oxidation that quickly occurs when artichokes are cut and otherwise turn brown.


A birds eye view of a large stock pot with two green globes in the bottom along with two lemons that have been cut in half. A small amount of water is in the bottom as well.
Steaming or boiling artichokes whole is the easiest way to prepare them. Learn how here, including tips on how to eat it once it’s done.
A hand is holding an artichoke that has been cut in half lengthwise. A red line has been superimposed on the image along where the inedible fuzzy choke is located. Beyond are a number of whole artichokes as well as the other half of the one in hand.
To clean an artichoke before cooking, cut it in half, and then carefully cut/scoop along this line (just above the heart) to remove the inedible fuzzy choke.
A hand is holding half an artichoke after the fuzzy choke has been removed. Below is a glass baking dish with many halved artichokes that have already been prepared.
All cleaned out and ready to be dolled up. You can see how the ones in the background are quickly oxidizing and turning brown, which is purely cosmetic but can be prevented by immediately rubbing lemon on them.
Beautiful green globes have been cut in half, sitting face up in a glass baking dish with a dollop of butter and a slice of lemon laid over the top of each one. Grow artichokes for delicious meals.
Our current go-to way to cook artichokes: halve and remove the choke, add a clove of garlic, pad of butter, and slice of lemon in each cavity, drizzle over a little olive oil, generous squeeze of lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add a splash of water to the bottom of pan (about half a cup), then cover and bake on 425F for 55 minutes or until tender. SO GOOD!


Can you preserve artichokes? 


It is difficult to preserve the edible outer leaf portion of artichoke buds, but you can preserve the tender inner leaves and hearts. Artichoke hearts can be frozen, preserved in oil, pickled, or pressure-canned. It’s best to preserve cooked artichokes, not raw.

To be honest, we typically don’t bother with preserving our chokes. We eat as many as possible fresh, and always allow several to flower for the pollinators too! Even the author of this well-rated marinated pickled artichoke recipe admits “processing all these baby artichokes will take some time, and, well, generate a lot of waste.” But I won’t knock it until I try it! It does seem like a good use of all the small side shoots – especially when you have a large bounty on your hands.


A flowering green globe with many purple pistils emanating from the center of the head. A raised bed garden is in the background as the sun is beginning to set. Grow artichokes for food while leaving a few for the pollinators.


And that’s how to grow, harvest, and use artichokes!


Oof, that was a hefty one, eh? As you can see, there are a quite a few unique nuances to growing artichokes. But now that you know all the tricks, I hope you feel empowered and excited to grow artichokes of your own too! Let me know if you have questions in the comments below. If you learned something new today, please consider pinning or sharing this post! Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy artichoke growing… and eating!


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How to Make the Best DIY Tomato Trellis (Stake Weave Hybrid) https://homesteadandchill.com/best-diy-tomato-trellis/ https://homesteadandchill.com/best-diy-tomato-trellis/#comments Tue, 18 Apr 2023 14:51:48 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2057346 Come learn how to make the best DIY tomato trellis and training system. It's sturdy, tidy, effective, and looks great in your garden! A step-by-step video tutorial, photos, and tips on how to prune tomato plants are included!

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There are so many ways to support and train tomato plants: cages, strings, stakes, wire panels… we’ve tried them all! But let me tell you about my favorite DIY tomato trellis system. We came up with the design last summer, and it was a HUGE success! It’s tidy, effective, sturdy, and makes harvesting a breeze! It also looks pretty darn slick in your garden.

This post will show you how to make the best DIY tomato trellis ever (IMHO) along with tips on how to prune and train tomato plants during the growing season. I also made a video tutorial to walk you through the entire simple process – but don’t miss the photos and details below!

If you need more tomato tips, be sure to check out our Organic Tomato Grow Guide.



The Training Method


This tomato trellis works best for vining or indeterminate tomato varieties. On the other hand, bush or determinate tomatoes are best not pruned and grown in cages – like these sturdy DIY tomato cages. The training style we’ll use on this tomato trellis is a hybrid between the Florida weave and single leader methods

In a single leader method (sometimes known as single stake or single string method), tomato plants are heavily pruned to remove ALL “suckers” or side branches. Heavy pruning significantly reduces the number of fruit each plant produces. However, the fruit is higher quality in flavor, texture and size. Plants are spaced as close together as 12 inches apart, and the one remaining leader stem is trained up a stake or string. It takes a lot of diligence and pruning, and single-leader plants can reach unruly heights. 

With a Florida Weave, tomato plants are minimally pruned and spaced 24 to 36 inches apart. A stake is placed between each plant, where they’re tucked or sandwiched between horizontal rows of string or twine for support. Without pruning, the Florida weave will create a wall of tomatoes that can be quite dense and heavy.

Our stake-weave tomato trellis and training system harnesses the best aspects of both methods, explained below. 


A side tomato branch or sucker is shown growing in between twine for support. Clusters of fruit are hanging in various stages of ripeness, some of the fruit are missing from the vines as they have already been harvested.
A combination of stakes and twine supports the tomato plants quite nicely…
A raised garden bed with a wall of tomatoes growing, they are reaching the top of the support structure and many clusters of bright red fruit visible amongst the green foliage.
…while the frame gives the stakes and twine added stability.


Tomato Trellis Benefits


  • Spacing tomato plants 18 to 24 inches apart and training them into a slender vertical wall maximizes space in the garden or compact spaces. It also allows plenty of room along the base of the tomatoes to grow companion plants such as basil, marigolds, peppers, bush beans, or other flowers and herbs.

  • Moderate pruning keeps the plants manageable, the fruit quality at its best and easy to harvest – but it’s also more carefree and forgiving than the single-leader method.

  • Less foliage means better airflow, and therefore reduced disease and pest pressure. Yet leaving several side branches per plant also offers enough foliage to protect most fruit from sunburn or sunscald.

  • This tomato trellis design is really versatile. It’s easy to adapt to raised beds, in-ground gardens, or along a wall. It can also be made with a variety of materials.

  • We chose not to permanently install our tomato trellis in the garden. Yet the design is easy to take down, store, and reassemble each season.


A close up image of a plant with Roma type tomatoes growing that are in various stages of ripeness from red, to yellow, and green. Basil is in the forefront, growing as a companion plant.


Supplies Needed


  • A sturdy frame with a horizontal top support that’s at least 6 feet tall off the ground or soil level. We created an A-frame tomato trellis using 8 ft redwood 2×2 boards, though you can use other materials or designs to create yours (e.g. metal conduit pipe, PVC, a straight T-trellis, etc). See more details about our frame below. 
  • 8 foot tall garden stakes (we use these ones) – or stakes tall enough to extend at least 18 inches into the ground and also reach the top of the trellis frame. Use 1 stake per tomato plant, plus two – one extra at the end of each row or bed. You could also use rebar, wood stakes, fence T-posts, or other long sturdy materials that you’re able to drive or dig into the ground. 
  • Garden twine (mid-weight jute or hemp) for the horizontal weave portion, as well as to secure the stakes to the frame.

  • Soft garden wire or tomato clips, to tie the main leader stem up the stake


Tomato plants growing in a raised bed amongst onions and nasturtium flowers, with a blue trellis pole system over the plants and rows of vertical twine to support the tomatoes.
Not up for building your own? Here’s an example of an alternative pre-made frame that could be used with our stake/weave combo system – just add center stakes and twine! This Freyr trellis is sturdy, easy to assemble, adjustable (up to 8 feet long and 7 feet high) and comes in a variety of colors. It’d be great for peas, beans and other climbing crops too!


Our tomato trellis frame


Using 8-foot 2×2″ redwood boards (true measurement 1 3/8″ x 1 3/8″), we created an “A frame” on each end of the bed. We cut the legs at a slight angle so they’d sit flush on the 4×4 corners inside the raised bed, and also at the top where they meet the horizontal support. Screws hold the boards together at the top, plus a metal brace to help further secure them. We also added a short horizontal piece of wood across each pair of legs (to make the “A”) for stability. 

I designed our tomato trellis to be plenty sturdy (especially once the stakes are connected to it), but not directly attached to our raised beds. I didn’t want to drill holes into the raised beds. We also like to take it down at the end of the season while we grow winter crops instead. Plus, we try our best to practice crop rotation so we aren’t necessarily growing tomatoes in the same bed next season! However, feel free to add additional support if needed – such as with T-posts, or by screwing the trellis to your garden bed.


The view of two garden beds lined up next to each other, each with an A-frame tomato trellis in each bed. The raised beds contain tomatoes, marigolds, zinnias, and beans. The raised beds next to them contain squash, beans, cosmos, marigolds, sunflowers, and onions.
In hindsight, we could have put the cross support (“A” piece) lower on the trellis for even more stability across the legs. Or, we can easily add additional horizontal support in the future if needed.
The top portion of an A-frame structure is shown with all of the large plant stakes thatched to the top of the frame with twine.
Stakes are firmly secured to the top of the trellis frame with several layers of twine.
A four way image collage, the first image shows the top corner of a wooden A-frame made with redwood 2x2's and a green plant stake along the end. The second image shows the top of the A-frame from the end, the two side boards and the top board have an L bracket attached to the ends to further strengthen the frame. The third image shows the green stake on the outside of the frame, attached to the frame with twine used as thatching. The fourth image shows the bottom of the frame sitting on top of the 4x4 corner of the raised garden bed. The bottom of the leg for the frame has been cut at an angle to sit flush with the corner piece.


Tomato Trellis Assembly and Use


  • Space stakes and plants every 18 to 24 inches. In a 4×8 foot bed, we plant four tomatoes spaced about 22 inches apart.

  • Add an additional stake at the end of each row of plants. This stake can be slightly closer (12-18”) if needed, since side branches from only one tomato plant will grow in that section of the weave. See photo below.

  • Using twine, firmly tie the top of each stake to the horizontal support or frame. I wrap the twine around many times to make it tight and secure.

  • Next, add horizontal rows of twine, spaced 1 foot apart up the entire length of the stakes. Use two layers of twine per row so you can tuck branches between them. Also try to keep the twine as tight as possible (it will naturally stretch out a little with time). You can add just a few rows at first, then add more as the plants grow too. 

  • Plant one tomato plant at the base of each stake. We usually prune off the lowest 2-3 branches and plant our tomatoes deep, burying several inches of the stem.


Raised garden beds are visible amongst gravel hardscape, there are arches, a fountain, a table and chairs set up as well. The raised beds have tomatoes, flowers, beans, squash, kale, and many other unidentifiable vegetables growing in them. The surrounding area has large oak trees growing amongst the landscape.
Here we’d only strung up 5 rows of twine so far, but continued to add additional rows above as the plants grew taller.
A view of the A-frame tomato trellis made with redwood 2x2's, large green plant stakes, and twine. The plants have reached the second row of twine with a few reaching the 3rd row. Marigolds, zinnia, and beans are growing in the bed as companion plants.


Pruning and Training Tomatoes Up the Trellis


  • As plants grow, continue to secure the main central leader to the stake using reusable soft garden wire or tomato clips.

  • Remove at least half of the “suckers” or side branches. Keep one central leader and 4 to 6 side branches on each plant. To remove suckers, simply pinch them off when they’re still small. See photos below. It’s best to remove the lowest 2 to 3 suckers, favoring those higher up the plant instead. Keep a couple on each side of the plant. Remember that sucker stems eventually grow their own suckers too!
  • While they’re still small and pliable, gently tuck the side branches between the layers of twine or string on either side of the plant. Don’t force it! If you miss a row and the branch has grown too long to weave without breaking it, simply skip the row and tuck it up into the next one.

  • Check the plants about once per week during the growing season to tuck, tie, or trim branches as needed. Continue to prune and remove most of the suckers as the plants grow. Judge and adjust pruning based on how crowded things become.

  • By the end of the season, the plants will reach the top of the trellis and may start to flop over. That’s okay! We just let ‘em hang.

  • Don’t prune or top the central leader – that signals the plant to stop growing. At the very end of the growing season, we gave our tomato trellises a “haircut” and pruned all the branches along the top frame. This forces the plants energy into ripening the remaining fruit rather than growing larger.

  • When tomato season is over, simply cut the plants out and leave the roots in place (no-till style). Remove and compost the twine, and store the trellis frame and stakes away for next season!


A main tomato stalk is being trained up a green plant stake. Superimposed circles have been made around the suckers growing long the main stem with the word "suckers" off to the the side.
Suckers are the new leaders that grow in the nook right between the main stem and a leafy branch.
A close up image of a tomato plant illustrating the difference between the main stem and sucker or second leader. Each section of the plant has the portion of the plant labeled with superimposed words on the specific parts of the plant.
Remove most of the suckers so that each plant has a main leader plus 4-6 side branches/suckers
DeannaCat is using her hand to move a tomato sucker in between the twine portion of the tomato trellis system. The plant is still fairly small with a few unripe fruits and flowers. Growing beyond the plant is a cosmos with white seashell shaped flowers.
Tucking a side branch (sucker) into the weave system, while the leader stem is secured to the stake with soft garden ties.
A view down a pathway with raised garden beds on each side. Large flower plants with red and purple/blue flowers are hanging over the edge of the raised beds into the pathway itself. Tomato plants are growing, their green and red fruit visible amongst the foliage. Beyond is a wall of green due to various other garden beds in the background as well as a large grape vine.
We admittedly got a bit lazy about pruning and removing suckers as the summer went on. You can see how bushy things got, especially on the right there! We ended up using some twine across the legs of the A-frame to hold up branches that were spilling into the pathway.
Raised garden beds with two tomato trellis systems set up in each, although one of them is only partially visible. They are both fully grown in with tomato plants, the fruit is visible amongst the green foliage. The tops of the plants have been cut off and they are laying on the ground in front of the bed. Basil  is growing in the bed in front of the tomatoes.
After topping the plants near the end of the season. We wanted the remaining fruit to hurry up and ripen so we could plant our fall/winter garden on time!
DeannaCat's hand is holding a beautiful large and round red tomato. Below there is a wicker basket and a couple large wood bowls full of various red, green, maroon tomatoes of various shapes and sizes.


Have a fantastic tomato season!


That wraps up this lesson on how to make the best tomato trellis ever. I say “best” in jest, but I really do love it – and hope you do too! If you give this tomato training system a try, let us know in the comments below. Or feel free to ask any questions you may have. Otherwise, we wish you a wonderful growing seasoning ahead. Enjoy!


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White Spots on Zucchini or Melon Leaves: Variegation vs Mildew (Photos) https://homesteadandchill.com/white-spots-zucchini-melon-leaves/ https://homesteadandchill.com/white-spots-zucchini-melon-leaves/#comments Mon, 10 Apr 2023 19:08:46 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2057075 If you see white spots on the leaves of your zucchini, squash, or melon plants, don’t fret! Come learn all about white markings on cucurbit plants - including how to tell the difference between natural variegation or powdery mildew, and how to treat it.

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Every spring as I share our garden online, I get numerous comments and questions about the “white spots” on our zucchini plants. What’s on your leaves? Is that a disease? How do you treat that? So, let’s talk about it!

If you’ve also noticed white spots on the leaves of your zucchini, squash, or melon plants, don’t fret. Read along to learn about white markings on squash foliage (and other members of the cucurbit plant family) including what causes white spots on zucchini leaves, how to tell the difference between natural leaf patterns vs disease, and how to treat powdery mildew.



What causes white spots on zucchini and melon leaves?


White spots on squash and melon foliage are usually caused by one of two things: disease or natural variegation. One can be a problem, while the other is not! 

Fungal diseases like powdery mildew causes white spots on zucchini leaves and other plants. Powdery mildew is very common and may require treatment. On the other hand, some (but not all) cucurbit varieties including zucchini, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers and melons have natural silvery-white spots, markings, or patterns on their leaves that are totally harmless. It’s just part of the leaf! 

For instance, our favorite mildew-resistant zucchini variety “Dunja” has heavily variegated leaves, shown below. I think it’s beautiful! Similarly, “Moon and Stars” watermelon has natural yellow spots all over the leaves AND melon rind.


DeannaCat's outstretched palm is underneath leaves of two different squash seedlings. One of them contains a heavy amount of white variegation while the other is mostly green. Both of them are fully healthy squash seedlings.
Two different varieties of zucchini seedlings, both healthy and disease-free. One has natural variegation markings (Dunja zucchini, left) while the other variety does not.
Three raised garden beds are shown overflowing with various vegetable plants and flowers. The main plant that is center stage is a zucchini variety squash plant, it is quite large and has white or gray molting on its leaves. Various squash fruit are growing, poking their flowered ends towards the sky. The other beds contain onions, basil, kale, and beans, along with marigolds, zinnia, calendula and borage.
A healthy Dunja zucchini plant with natural leaf variegation
An image of two smaller watermelons growing in a patch, the melon as well as the surround leaves are all covered in yellow spots and splotches which is normal for this particular variety.
‘Moon and Stars’ variety of watermelon has natural yellow spots
A close up of irregular white spots on zucchini leaves.
Powdery mildew on squash leaves


How to tell the difference between natural variegation and mildew


White spots on zucchini leaves caused by natural variegation are usually fairly uniform, displayed in a mirrored pattern on all leaves and concentrated around leaf veins. The markings are flat (not raised) and only visible on the top side of the leaf. Natural variegation patterns typically appear when the squash or melon plants are still young seedlings.

In contrast, powdery mildew (PM) spots are more irregular and scattered than natural variegation – some big spots, some little spots, and some leaves with none at all. Mildew white spots are usually round, fuzzy, dusty-looking, sometimes slightly raised, and can be found on both the top and bottom of zucchini leaves and stems.

Powdery mildew generally shows up later than variegation, with the oldest leaves becoming most heavily infected. A severe mildew case makes the plant look like it’s been dusted in powdered sugar or flour! The infected leaves may eventually turn yellow and dry out too. Mildew white spots can also be wiped off (or at least appear to temporarily disappear) with a wet cloth or paper towel, whereas the natural leaf pattern would stay as-is. 


A vining melon is trained up a trellis system, the newer leaves towards the top look fairly healthy while the older leaves towards the bottom are covered in powdery mildew.
This melon vine has a slight natural variegation along it’s veins (top leaf) but also has a good case of powdery mildew on the lower (older) leaves.
A two way image collage showing two separate cases of powdery mildew on squash leaves. The first image shows a few darker green leaves, one of them is almost fully covered in powdery mildew while the leaf next to it just has a few splotches. The second image shows a couple more squash leaves that have been infected with powdery mildew while the remaining newer leaves are disease free for the moment.
More examples of powdery mildew on zucchini leaves
A two part image collage, the first image shows the top leaf of a PM resistant variety of squash. There are natural gray variegation on the leaves that are fairly symmetrical across the whole leaf. The second image shows DeannaCat turning the leaf over so you can see the underside which looks green and healthy where as plants inflicted with PM will usually have spots on the undersides of their leaves as well. White spots on zucchini aren't always disease related, natural variegations are common in some varieties.
Natural variegation on a zucchini leaf: flat white markings concentrated around the veins, uniform across all leaves, not present on the underside of leaves or fuzzy.


Powdery mildew vs downy mildew


Powdery mildew causes fuzzy, slightly raised, irregular white spots on plant leaves. The worse the infection gets, the more thick and “powdery” it becomes. On the other hand, downy mildew creates small yellow spots on leaves that eventually turn brown, thin, and crispy.  Learn more about controlling downy mildew in the garden here.


How to get rid of white spots (mildew) on zucchini plants


Once you’ve confirmed the white spots on your zucchini leaves are indeed a fungal disease (and not just a natural leaf pattern), you can proceed to treat the plant as necessary. The course of action to treat powdery mildew depends on the extent of the infection. Thankfully, powdery mildew isn’t fatal to plants except in extreme cases. Yet mildew does hinder overall plant health and can easily spread to other plants in your garden, so don’t let it go unchecked.

Powdery mildew can be prevented by if you choose mildew-resistant varieties, avoid overhead watering (use drip irrigation instead), sanitize garden tools regularly, and follow recommended plant spacing to reduce crowding and increase circulation.

Treat mild cases of mildew by pruning away infected leaves, apply a dilute neem oil spray after dusk, DIY baking soda spray, or our favorite method: with homemade potassium bicarbonate spray, explained below. I recommend removing and trashing (not composting) severely infected plants to avoid the spread of mildew spores in your garden.

See this article to learn even more about organic powdery mildew management.


A large zucchini plant that is absolutely covered in powdery mildew, almost all of the green leaves are now covered in thick, white, powdery mildew.
The worst case of powdery mildew I’ve ever seen (spotted at a neighbors house). I would have removed this plant long ago! Leaving it will only allow more fungus spores to proliferate and spread in your garden.


Using potassium bicarbonate to treat powdery mildew


Potassium bicarbonate is a natural compound similar to baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) but is stronger and longer-lasting against powdery mildew. It changes the pH on the plant leaves, making conditions more alkaline and less hospitable for the fungus to thrive. It can be used as a preventative spray on young plants, or as treatment once white spots appear on leaves. Potassium bicarbonate is nontoxic to humans, wildlife, and the environment, though you should exercise caution not to inhale the powder or get it in your eyes.

To create a potassium bicarbonate spray for powdery mildew, thoroughly mix 1 tablespoon of powder and 1 Tbsp of liquid castile soap with 1 gallon of water in your favorite garden sprayer. (The soap helps the potassium bicarbonate spread and stick to the leaves better.) Shake well and spray the plant thoroughly, saturating both the tops and bottoms of leaves. Repeat treatment as needed, but no more than once every two weeks. As with all foliar sprays, it’s best to apply in the evening hours once the plants are out of direct sunlight.


A hand is using a small handheld pump sprayer to spray an artichoke plant that is infected with aphids. The artichoke is planted in a half wine barrel amongst bark mulch ground cover, various shrubs, flowering annuals, and perennials. White spots on zucchini can be prevented with routine, preventative foliar sprays.
Our favorite ergonomic handheld pump sprayer. I think we were actually using DIY soap spray to kill aphids on our artichoke here… but you get the idea.

And that’s the difference between mildew and variegation on plants.


I hope this helps put your mind at ease if you see white spots on your zucchini or other plants. Whether it’s mildew or just the natural leaf pattern, your plants will be okay. Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below, and consider sharing this article if you found it useful!


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How to Grow and Support Cucumber Plants (Cucumber Trellis Ideas) https://homesteadandchill.com/grow-trellis-cucumber-plants/ https://homesteadandchill.com/grow-trellis-cucumber-plants/#comments Tue, 21 Mar 2023 18:36:36 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2056624 Nothing says summer like cool, crisp, refreshing homegrown cukes! Come learn how to grow, harvest, and preserve cucumbers - including tips to maximize space, yield, and success with several cucumber trellis ideas.

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Cucumbers are a quintessential summer garden crop. The crisp, juicy fruit are perfect for refreshing summer salads, sandwiches, beverages, homemade pickles, dips and more. Read along to learn how to grow cucumbers, including how to train cucumber plants on a trellis to maximize space, yield and success! 

This article explores different types of cucumbers to grow, ideal growing conditions, several awesome cucumber trellis ideas, important pollination requirements, potential pests or diseases, and ways to use and preserve your cucumber bounty.


This article is proudly sponsored by Gardener’s Supply Company, our favorite Certified B Corp for seed starting supplies, cucumber trellises, and other garden goods. This post also contains affiliate links that help support the work we do here at Homestead and Chill. We’re so grateful for your support!



Cucumber Growing Conditions & Requirements


  • Temperature: Cucumbers grow best when both the air and soil are nice and warm. They thrive when outdoor temperatures are between 75-85°F, and the soil is at least 65°F. Cucumbers grow more slowly (or fail to grow at all) when temperatures dip below 50 or rise over 95°F. Above 95, the plants will fail to produce fruit as the flowers fall off.  Use shade cloth and mulch to protect cucumber plants from extreme heat. Cucumbers do not tolerate frost.
  • Sun: Cucumber plants need full sun in most cases, or at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Yet since cucumber plants don’t love extreme heat, they will benefit from partial shade (especially afternoon shade) in hot climates where summer temperatures routinely exceed 90°F.

  • Soil: Cucumbers grow best in soil that’s rich in organic matter, but loose and well-draining. For the best results, amend soil with a few inches of well-aged compost and/or worm castings prior to planting. Fluff up heavy clay soil with the addition of sand or potting soil. 
  • Water: Regular deep water is one of THE keys to successfully grow cucumbers! Cucumber plants love consistently damp soil and a regular watering schedule*. Irregular water (fluctuating between very wet and dry) leads to stressed plants, dry fruit, and bitter-tasting cucumbers. A couple inches of mulch around the base of plants will help with even moisture retention. Avoid overwatering however, since soggy soil or standing water can lead to root rot.


*Water needs and frequency vary depending on your climate, soil, and rainfall. It doesn’t rain here in the summer at all, so we run our raised bed drip irrigation system twice a week for an hour to give the plants a nice deep drink. 


A support system hanging off the edge of a raised garden bed that is covered in plant material with growing fruits hanging down below the support system.


Types of Cucumbers and Varieties To Grow


Cucumbers generally fall into three categories: classic slicers, pickling cucumbers, or thin-skinned burpless varieties. 


  • Slicing cucumbers are what’s most commonly found in grocery stores, and are used for fresh eating (though they can also be pickled). Slicers average about 6 to 10 inches in length, usually have medium-thick skin that’s slightly bumpy, and a moderate amount of seeds inside. Marketmore, Paraiso, and Green 18 are a few great slicer cucumber varieties. Some hybrid slicers have thinner skin – like Manny, my favorite!

  • Pickling cucumbers are short and stout (3 to 4 inches long) and usually have bumpy skin. The compact size is perfect to pack inside jars for homemade pickles! Pickling cucumbers are also usually more firm, and therefore better retain a crunchy texture in pickles and preserves. Popular pickling cucumber varieties include Homemade Pickles, Excelsior Cucumber, National Pickling, and Provision.
  • English, Asian, or other “burpless” cucumbers are similar to slicers, but have exceptionally thin, tender skin. This makes them ideal for fresh eating, and easier to digest – hence the “burpless” moniker! Burpless cucumber varieties tend to grow longer (up to 12 inches or more) but stay more slender, so they’re usually less seedy than traditional slicers. I love to grow burpless cucumbers, including Tasty Green, Telegraph and Kalunga.

  • There are many other types of cucumbers out there too! Cucamelons, gherkins, white cucumbers, Armenian, lemon, and more. Visit our cucamelon grow guide here.


A wicker basket full of freshly harvested cucumbers, surrounding the basket are sprigs of fresh dill, onions, garlic, fresh grape leaf and spoonful measurements of chili flakes, mustard seeds, peppercorns, and sea salt.
Classic slicer cucumbers
A close up image of an outstretched palm full of tiny cucamelons. One of them has been sliced in half to show the inside of the fruit.
Tiny Mexican Sour Gherkin cucumbers – aka “cucamelons”


Bush vs. Vining Cucumbers


Cucumber plants have two different growth habits: bush or vining, much like squash plants. Vining cucumber plants grow larger, produce more fruit over a longer period of time, require a trellis for support, and maximize space by growing vertically! In contrast, bush cucumber varieties are compact, bear less generous volumes of fruit per plant, and don’t require a trellis. They’re ideal to grow in fields, rows, containers, or raised beds – but need to be spaced farther apart, explained below. 


A lean to cucumber trellis leaning off the back of a raised garden bed. The plants are filling out the support system and many large cucumber fruits are visible hanging below. Beyond are various raised garden beds with an assortment of vegetables and flowers, from kale, eggplant, squash, and peppers to zinnia, marigolds, cosmos, and sunflowers.
To save even more space in the bed for other plants, we set up our favorite deluxe cucumber trellis like a lean-to off the end of one raised bed (though it’s most often used as an A-frame within the bed).


Planting Cucumber Seedlings


  • Starting Seeds: Start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Cucumber seedlings grow really fast and won’t be happy if they’re kept indoors for too long! Also plan provide indoor seedlings ample bright light (e.g. under grow lights) for the best results. Get more detailed tips on indoor seed starting here.

  • Planting: Transplant cucumber seedlings outside in the spring after the soil has warmed, and at least 2 weeks after the danger of frost has passed. Studies show that cucumbers will not grow if the soil temperature is below 63°F, so when in doubt, use a soil thermometer to check before planting! May is generally a good time to plant cucumbers in most growing zones. Be sure to harden off indoor seedlings first and follow other transplanting best practices!

  • Spacing: Hilled or bush cucumber plants (those left to sprawl out) should be spaced about 3 to 5 feet apart. However, vining trellised cucumber plants can be spaced as close as 12 inches apart along the base of a common trellis. 


A young seedling in a 4 inch plastic pot is being focused on within the walls of a greenhouse that are lined with wooden benches containing various vegetable and flower seedlings in various stages of growth.
Cucumber seedlings grow fast! We like to start them in 4” pots instead of smaller cell trays, giving their roots plenty of space so they don’t get root bound. These 4″ Pop-Out Pots work perfectly.
A raised garden bed with a metal support leaning off the back of the bed to support the four vining plants that are planted along the edge of the bed. There are also peppers, eggplant, basil, and various flowers growing in the bed as well. Beyond are a number of other garden beds with an array of various vegetables growing in each.
Spaced about 12″ apart, we’re able to grow up to four cucumber vines on our 4-foot wide deluxe cucumber trellis.


Cucumber Pollination and Fruit Growth


Did you know that some cucumber varieties need pollination to grow fruit, while others do not – and are considered “self-fertile”? The seed or plant description should specify if the variety is monoecious or parthenocarpic.

Most cucumber varieties are monoecious: in order for cucumbers to grow, pollen must be physically transferred from their male to female flowers – either by bees, other insects, or by hand! Without proper pollination, the cucumber fruits fail to develop, staying small and eventually falling off the vine. 

In contrast, parthenocarpic cucumber varieties set fruit without pollination. They’re exceptionally productive, including in greenhouses or high-tunnels where pollinators may not be present. Parthenocarpic cucumber varieties are always vining plants, further adding to their appeal for maximizing productivity. 


A close up of mature fruits, immature fruits with flowers, and a few yellow small fruits that weren't pollinated and will soon fall off the plant.
Female flowers have tiny immature cucumbers visible at the base, while the male flowers have a plain straight stem. If you look closely, you can see several tiny yellow cucumbers that were not pollinated, and soon will fall off the vine. To hand-pollinate cucumbers, simply pick off an open male flower, peel the petals back, and rub its yellow center against the center of an open female flower.


Supporting Cucumber Plants on Trellises


Cucumber vines grow about 4 to 6 feet long on average, depending on the variety. That said, an ideal cucumber trellis should be at least 4 or 5 feet tall. Using a wide trellis allows you to grow several cucumber plants side-by-side up the same trellis, spaced about a foot apart along the base. Vining cucumber plants naturally climb trellises with clinging tendrils, so there’s no need to tie them up. 


A close up image of  vining plant tendrils reaching for support on netting that is being used as support.
Cucumber tendrils clinging to garden netting


The Benefits of Cucumber Trellises 


Even vining cucumber plants could be left to sprawl out on the ground, yet growing cucumbers up a trellis offers numerous benefits: it saves space, increases airflow (which reduces disease and pests), makes harvesting easier, and keeps the cucumber fruit growing nice and straight! Cucumbers left to grow on the ground tend to curl, or get discolored spots where they were laying on the soil.

In small garden spaces, you may even be able to grow other crops below your cucumber trellis. For example, planting lettuce or other small leafy greens below a cucumber trellis both maximizes your growing space AND provides the greens with valuable shade and shelter during the heat of summer. 


A lean to cucumber trellis is covered with vining plants and fruit. Below the shade of the trellis there is a row of lettuce planted that will be protected from the warm summer sun.
A Large Cucumber Trellis from Gardener’s Supply Company, doubling as protective shade for heat-sensitive leafy greens below.


Cucumber Trellis Options


Cucumber trellises come in many shapes and sizes: lean-tos, A-frames, vertical trellises, tall cages, or pointed teepees… they all get the job done! A-frame cucumber trellises are especially popular among home gardeners. This extra-large “Over the Top” cucumber trellis is sturdy enough to support melons or vining squash too. You could even grow cucumbers up a large walk-through arched trellis or arbor, though the vines likely won’t make it to the top.  

Gardener’s Supply Company offers a wide variety of high-quality, sturdy, and attractive cucumber trellises to buy online. Check them out here! We have and love the Deluxe Cucumber Trellis from Gardener’s Supply, and plan to add a second one to the garden this season. Or you could get creative and make your own cucumber trellis using netting, stakes, wire, sticks, or other sturdy materials. 


An A-frame support stand in a garden bed with a vining plant starting to climb the support, almost reaching the top of the frame.
This simple A-frame cucumber trellis is sturdy and compact, perfect for small or large gardens alike. You can grow one or two vines up each side, or place several A-frames in a row to create an A-frame tunnel – and grow even more!
A brown tabby cat lays out next to a raised garden bed, a trellis is hanging over the edge of the raised bed, creating a canopy of plants and fruit above the cat.
Badger loves our cucumber trellis too! Chillin’ below it, he’s as cool as a cucumber.
Many fruit and yellow flowers hang from a piece of concrete remesh that is being used to support the climbing plants.
A basic vertical DIY remesh wire trellis
A trellis system is set up in rows using long sticks and pieces of bamboo to create a make shift and sustainable trellis system.
A creative DIY cucumber trellis made from branches, bamboo stakes, and garden netting.


Growing Cucumbers in Containers


Yes, you can grow cucumbers in pots! Choose a container that is at least one foot deep and wide per plant. Then, all of the basic growing requirements that we’ve already covered (soil, sun, temperature, etc) applies to growing cucumber plants in pots too.

However, achieving the ideal even and consistently damp soil (not soggy) that cucumbers love is more tricky in containers, since potted soil tend to yo-yo between wet and dry more than raised beds or in-ground gardens. To solve that, consider planting cucumbers in this handy Victory Self-Watering Planter with Vine Trellis. The self-watering system ensures consistent, optimal hydration – and a sturdy support trellis is included!


A self watering planter with a trellis contains a melon plant with a couple immature melon fruits hanging off the plant. This trellis can be used in a similar manner with cucumbers.
Gardener’s Self-Watering Victory Planter makes growing potted cucumbers a breeze


Cucumber Pests and Diseases


Pests 


Common cucumber pests include spotted and striped cucumber beetles, aphids, thrips, whitefly, root knot nematodes, squash bugs, squash vine borers, and spider mites. Some of these pests cause harm by chewing on the plants while others transmit diseases (or both). For instance, spotted and striped cucumber beetles cause damage by chewing on foliage and fruit, but they also transmit a bacterial wilt pathogen that can kill cucurbits. 

The first step in organic pest management is to properly identify the pest first, then proceed conservatively and depending on the severity of the infestation. Neem oil spray, fine mesh garden fabric (row covers), and marigold companion plants can all help deter pest insects. I don’t recommend using broad-spectrum pesticides – for the sake of your health, pollinators, and the environment! Click on any of the pest names above to see specific control tips. 


A two way image collage, the first image shows a close up of a stripped cucumber beetle sitting on top of cucumber fruit as it is being eaten away by the pest insect. The second image shows a spotted cucumber beetle holding onto a skinny twig of plant material.
Striped and spotted cucumber beetles


Diseases


There are also a number of cucumber plant diseases that can occur including powder mildew, cucumber mosaic virus, downy mildew, angular leaf spot, bacterial wilt, Phytophthora crown and root rot. Bacterial wilt, leaf spot, and mosaic virus are difficult to remedy once they set in, but there are a number of proactive prevention and management techniques to use – including good garden hygiene and sanitation, reducing overhead watering (use drip irrigation instead), minimizing aphid and cucumber beetle populations, and removing infected plants.

Cucumber fungal diseases such as downy mildew or powdery mildew can often be controlled organically with the use of neem oil spray. See this guide for more complete instructions on how to safely and effectively use neem oil in the garden, and more information about powdery mildew here.

One great way to thwart these issues is to grow disease-resistant varieties! For example, powdery mildew is very prevalent in our area, so we seek out powdery mildew resistant cucumber varieties like Tasty Green or Manny. Other varieties may exhibit natural resistance to downy mildew, cucumber mosaic virus, scab, bacterial wilt, and more. 


A close up image of a few cucumber leaves to illustrate powdery mildew on the leaves. A few of its tendrils are attached and climbing a metal cucumber trellis.
Powdery mildew spots on cucumber leaves


Harvesting Cucumbers


To harvest cucumbers, either cut their stem or gently twist the fruit off of the vine. Be careful to not damage the vine. For the best-tasting cucumbers, it’s key to harvest cucumbers in a timely manner: soon after (or even just before) the fruit have reached their desired size for the variety grown. Harvest pickling cucumbers nice and small (2 to 3 inches long) and don’t let them grow longer than 4 or 5 inches.

Cucumbers don’t need to “ripen” so they really can’t be picked too early. On the flip side, cucumbers left on the vine too long will taste bitter, the skin gets increasingly thick and tough, and the insides get more and more seedy. Plus, routinely harvesting fruit allows the plant to redirect its energy into growing new cucumbers – thereby increasing yields!


Why do my cucumbers taste bitter?


Cucumbers get bitter when a natural compound called cucurbitacin becomes elevated in the fruit. A number of things make cucumbers taste bitter, including when they’re harvested and how they’re grown. 

  • Cucumbers that are harvested early are more sweet and tender, while overgrown cucumbers left on the vine too long quickly become bitter. 
  • Heat stress causes higher levels of cucurbitacin and bitterness
  • Irregular or inconsistent watering throughout the growing season also stresses the plants and makes cucumbers bitter. 
  • Finally, some cucumber varieties are naturally more sweet and less bitter than others, such as English and Persian cucumbers. Slicing cucumbers are most prone to getting bitter. 


Reduce bitterness in cucumbers by providing regular water, harvesting fruit early, protecting plants from extreme heat with shade cloth and mulch, and removing the peel on already-harvested fruit that is bitter.


A birds eye view of a wooden cutting board with lengthwise cucumber slices, a cucumber sliced in half, and a few onion slices.


How to Store Cucumbers


Store just-harvested cucumbers in the refrigerator inside a reusable plastic bag in the crisper drawer. Cucumbers should stay fresh and crisp for over a week in the fridge, compared to only a few days if left out at room temperature. Wait to cut cucumbers until you’re ready to use them, but it’s okay to wash them before storage.

Yet try not to store cucumbers below 40F, as they’ll degrade more quickly under too cold of conditions. Also avoid storing cucumbers near apples or tomatoes, which emit a plant hormone (ethylene) that will cause the cucumbers to yellow. Store sliced or cut cucumbers in a bowl of cool water for only a few days to prevent them from drying out. 


Ways to Use and Preserve Cucumbers


Given their mild and inconspicuous flavor, there are endless ways to use and preserve cucumbers! Use fresh cucumbers in salads (including cucumber-forward Greek salad), sandwiches, wraps, burgers, smoothies, tzatziki, salsas, sliced in water or sun tea, or use them in a juicer. You could even experiment cooking with cucumbers, including sautéed, roasted or grilled. 

To preserve cucumbers, consider making delicious homemade pickles: either quick refrigerator pickles, canned, or lacto-fermented brined cucumber pickles. You can also dehydrate thin cucumber slices into chips, or freeze them. Check out this post from Practical Self Reliance to see 15 different ways to preserve cucumbers!


Two quart mason jars side by side filled with fresh packed cucumber slices, dill, garlic, and peppercorns to be made into pickles.
Try our Easy Crunchy Refrigerator Dill Pickles recipe here!


And that sums up everything you need to know to successfully grow cucumbers.


All in all, I hope you enjoyed reading this article – and hopefully learned something new! I even learned a couple new things myself, which is always a treat. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and feel free to visit our other seed-to-harvest grow guides here. Here’s wishing you bountiful cucumber growing season ahead!


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