Fruit & Trees Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/garden/fruit-trees/ Organic Gardening | Real Food | Natural Health | Good Vibes Thu, 07 Sep 2023 15:31:05 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.2 https://homesteadandchill.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/H-75x75.png Fruit & Trees Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/garden/fruit-trees/ 32 32 155825441 DIY Berry Trellis: How to Build a Wire Raspberry or Blackberry Trellis (Video) https://homesteadandchill.com/diy-wire-berry-trellis/ https://homesteadandchill.com/diy-wire-berry-trellis/#respond Wed, 06 Sep 2023 16:46:32 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2066628 Come learn how to build a simple homemade wire berry trellis. Our sturdy DIY berry trellis design is perfect to support raspberries, blackberries, or any other caneberry. Video and step-by-step instructions included!

The post DIY Berry Trellis: How to Build a Wire Raspberry or Blackberry Trellis (Video) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

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Are you growing caneberries and looking for a way to support them? Right on! Come along and learn how to build a sturdy DIY berry trellis system. Our simple homemade berry trellis design works to trellis raspberry, blackberry, boysenberry, loganberry, marionberry, olallieberry, or any other type of vining caneberry plants. 

This tutorial will walk you through all the supplies and step-by-step process to build a wire berry trellis – photos and video included. We used wood along with metal fence t-posts for our berry trellis design, though I’ll also provide alternate options if you’d like to bury wood posts in the ground instead. Last but not least, we’ll briefly cover how to train and prune raspberries and blackberries too!



The Benefits of Trellising Raspberries and Blackberries


Some gardeners may wonder, do blackberries and raspberries need a trellis? While not required, a berry trellis will help keep raspberry and blackberry vines more tidy, manageable, easier to prune and harvest. So, I highly recommend growing these berries on a trellis system!

Blackberries and raspberries are both considered caneberries – where they grow long canes or vines from a crown just below the soil. If left to grow without support or some type of trellis system, blackberry and raspberry vines will naturally flop and sprawl all over. Blackberries in particular will turn into big brambling bushes. If you’re growing thorny caneberry varieties, that can make them even more difficult to access, maintain, or harvest fruit from.


We made three DIY berry trellises: raspberries on the left, ollalieberries in the middle, blackberries on the right.
Using a wire trellis system helps keeps our berry beds much more tidy and manageable. Use code “deannacat3” to save 5% on high-quality Birdies raised beds here. They’re the best metal raised bed kits on the market!


Best Blackberry or Raspberry Trellis Height and Dimensions


Most raspberry canes grow at least 5 feet tall, and blackberry vines grow even taller! So, it’s best to build a berry trellis that is about 5 or 6 feet tall. Also plan to build your berry trellis about a foot wider than the garden bed or berry patch where they’re growing. 

Our berry trellis design has four horizontal wire supports that run the length of the berry patch (two on each side). The lowest wire is about 3 feet above the soil level, with the upper wire at 5 feet tall. This way, you can tuck the blackberry or raspberry vines up between the rows of wire as they grow taller. See photo below.

If you happen to be growing shorter varieties of raspberries, consider lowering the horizontal supports and wires slightly from our design (e.g. the lower one at 2 or 2.5 above the ground, and the highest one at 4 feet tall).



Now, let’s go build a berry trellis, shall we? Here is the video tutorial, with the supplies list, written instructions and more photos below.




Supplies Needed


  • Two vertical wood posts (one on each end) such as 2×4’s or 4×4’s. They should be tall enough to extend 5 to 6 feet above the soil level once installed. Plan accordingly if you’re growing in raised beds, or want to bury the posts in the ground (e.g. start with 8 foot posts and bury 2 feet).

  • Four horizontal supports (two per end) such as 2x2s or 2x4s. We used this rough cut 2×2 redwood lumber. The top bar should be about a foot wider than your berry bed, and the lower bar about 6” narrower than the top. For example, our berry beds are 24” wide, so the tap bars are 36” wide and the bottom bars are 30”.

  • Screws, to connect the horizontal bars to the main wood posts. We used 2.5-inch exterior wood screws in our berry trellis design.
  • Hooks (4 per end, or 8 total per trellis) to connect the wire to the horizontal bars. We used screw eye hooks like these.

  • Wire (10 to 12 gauge is best), durable twine, or woven wire rope/cable. We used 1/16” gauge galvanized steel wire cable, which requires a few extra supplies (list below). To determine the length of wire needed, figure out how far apart your trellis ends will be, and then multiply by four. There will be two lines of wire running the length of your berry bed on each side.

  • Optional: wood glue, to strengthen connection between post and horizontal bars
  • Optional: Turnbuckle tension tighteners, so you can tighten or even completely unhook the berry trellis wire as needed. You could put a turnbuckle at each end of every wire (8 per trellis); we chose to add them at just one end of each wire (4 per trellis).

  • Drill and saw as needed

  • Reusable soft garden wire ties




Berry trellis wire kits


Looking for berry trellis supplies? This handy wire trellis kit comes with 50 feet of stainless steel wire cable, 8 ferrules, 4 hooks, and 2 turnbuckles. (To follow our berry trellis design you’d still need to get 4 additional hooks and 2 more turnbuckles). Or, this larger trellis kit includes 100 feet of wire, 14 ferrules, 10 hooks, and 5 turnbuckles – everything you’d need to build a berry trellis!


Supplies for T-Post Option


If you’d like to make your DIY berry trellis with fence t-posts like we did, you’ll need:

  • One 6 foot t-post at each end of the trellis. 
  • A post driver is really helpful to set them in the ground. 
  • You’ll also need these vertical t-post brackets and screws to connect the wood post to the t-post (also available in 6 packs). We used 1.25″ wood screws to secure the 2×4’s to the brackets.
  • Two adjustable 5-inch pipe hose clamps (one for the bottom of each trellis end) – which will fit around the t-post and 2×4”. You’ll need a larger pipe clamp if using larger wood.



Supplies for Wire Cable




Notes for Using 4×4’s vs T-Posts


We chose to use metal fence t-posts to support the ends of our berry trellis. They’re sturdy, easy to install, and we also had a few leftover from another project. Even more, wanted to minimize digging around the berry beds because we installed hardware cloth on the ground below/around all the beds for gopher prevention. The wood posts we connected to t-posts do not go down in the ground.

To set 4×4 posts in the ground instead, plan to dig it at least two feet into the ground, and pack gravel, soil, and/or concrete firmly around it. Or, we often use these cinder block piers to help securely set wood posts in our loose sandy soil. 

Because we used metal fence t-post in our DIY berry trellis design, we built the trellis end wood supports on our patio first, and then attached them to the t-posts mostly assembled. However, if you’re going to set 4×4 posts in the ground, you may want to do that first and then connect the horizontal bars, hooks, wires, etc. 


Setting the t-posts. Look at how much the just-planted blackberries were already sprawling out.
Cutting a hole where the t-posts will go. Hardware cloth (gopher protection) and burlap (weed suppression) runs under our entire berry patch.
Though it isn’t exactly “DIY”, another option is to use these pre-made raspberry trellis posts. Once installed 2 feet into the ground, they are the same dimension as our DIY berry trellis design.


Instructions to Build a DIY Berry Trellis: T-Posts, Wood, and Wire


Step 1: Build Berry Trellis Ends


  • Cut your wood to the dimensions needed for your berry bed. 
  • Use wood glue and screws to attach the two smaller horizontal wood pieces to the main vertical wood support. We squeezed a bit of wood glue between the wood, drilled pilot holes, then added 2 screws each.
  • Again, the top horizontal bar should be about 5 feet above the soil level, and the lower horizontal bar about 2 feet below that (or 3 feet above the ground) to trellis tall raspberry or blackberry vines. *Reduce height by a foot each for shorter raspberry varieties.*
  • Flip the trellis over, and add 1 eye hook to each end of the horizontal pieces, for a total of 4 hooks. (Pilot hole also recommended here)
  • Repeat the process for the second side of the berry trellis. 


After affixing the horizontal wood pieces, flip the whole thing over and add hooks on the other side
Ready to install in the berry patch!


Step 2:  Install T-Posts and Ends


  • Use a post driver to install a metal t-post at each end of your berry bed. Try to keep it as straight as possible. (OR, bury 4×4 posts at each end of the bed and connect horizontal supports as described above). 
  • If you’d like the wood facing out (to hide the t-posts) install the t-posts with the bumpy part facing in towards the berry bed.
  • Slip a vertical t-post bracket over the post, and lock into place on one of the top bumps.
  • Connect the pre-assembled wood berry trellis end to the t-post by screwing it to the bracket. Make sure the trellis eye hooks are facing in towards the berry bed!
  • At the bottom of each berry trellis end, add and tighten an adjustable pipe clamp around both the wood and t-post, securing them together.
  • Repeat to attach the second wood trellis end.


Rather than installing two brackets per post (which can sway or wiggle), using a pipe clamp at the bottom immobilizes the wood post and bracket against the t-post.


Step 3: Add Berry Trellis Wires


Now it’s time to string wire between the eye hooks on your DIY berry trellis. Again, you can simply run some basic 10 to 12 gauge wire from hook to hook, or follow the instructions below to use wire rope cable like we did in our berry trellis design:

  • Insert one end of the 1/16” wire cable into a 1/16” ferrule. Loop the wire through an eye hook on the trellis end, and then back into the ferrule. Use a crimping tool to pinch/crimp the ferrule, securing the cable wire to the hook. 
  • Run the wire down the length of the berry bed to the opposite end of the trellis. On this end, we added an optional turnbuckle. I started by loosening the turnbuckle almost all the way (so it can be tightened later), hooked it onto the trellis eye hook, then put the wire through the solid loop end of the turnbuckle. 
  • While pulling the wire tight, repeat the same process to secure the cable wire to the 2nd side of the trellis (to the turnbuckle) using a ferrule and crimping tool. 
  • Repeat for the remaining 3 wires in your DIY berry trellis.


On the second side, connect the wire directly to the loosened turnbuckle – but pull the wire nice and taught while doing so.


Ta-da! You just built a homemade raspberry trellis.


How to use a berry trellis: training raspberry and blackberry vines


Once the berry trellis is installed, it’s quite easy to use. Simply tuck the blackberry or raspberry vines up inside the wires as they grow. It’s easiest to do so before the berry vines get too long (and may break), so check and tuck them regularly. I definitely recommend wearing thorn-proof gloves when working with prickly berry vines!

I found that our blackberry and raspberry vines tend to slide along the berry trellis wires, especially on windy days. So, I secured some of the canes to the wire using soft reusable garden wire ties to help hold them in place, and it worked like a charm. You can also add small stakes to individual canes if needed.

Blackberry, raspberry, and other caneberry vines can also be pruned (topped) to control their height. Our raspberries are fairly short and manageable. However, we plan to top our olallieberry and blackberry vines once they’re a few feet taller than the trellis (keeping them no longer than 7 or 8 feet tall). The act of topping them will also make each cane branch more.  



Pruning Caneberries


Beyond topping the vines, the subject of how to grow and routinely prune blackberries and raspberries deserves a post of its own! Stay tuned for a dedicated article on that topic soon. 

In the meantime, here’s the quick and dirty for how to prune raspberries and blackberries: 

  • Each year when the vines are dormant (late fall to early spring), cut them back to the ground – but leave about 8 to 12 raspberry canes and 5 to 8 blackberry canes per plant.
  • The canes you choose to leave or remove depends on the variety of caneberry you’re growing. 
  • For June-bearing raspberry or blackberry varieties (aka primocane), cut away the two year old vines that already fruited the previous year, leaving just the freshed canes that grew the past year. 
  • For everbearing raspberries and blackberries (aka floricane), only cut back three year old canes – as the younger 1 and 2-year old canes will still bear fruit later. 
  • Some gardeners like to mark the canes with small ties or flags to help keep track. 
  • Because they require different pruning techniques, it’s best to grow everbearing and June-bearing caneberries in separate beds.


To make pruning easier, we have two varieties of primocane raspberries in one bed, two varieties of floricane blackberries in another bed, and ollalieberries in the middle bed.


And that concludes this lesson on how to build a sturdy DIY berry trellis.


Well folks, I sure hope that was useful – and helps you feel empowered and prepared to go make a berry trellis of your own! If so, please spread the love by sharing or pinning this post. Please also feel free to ask any questions or simply say hello in the comments below. We truly appreciate you tuning in today. Happy berry growing… and eating!


Don’t miss these related posts:



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New Pollinator Orchard Garden on a Hill (Permaculture Berms Terraces)  https://homesteadandchill.com/pollinator-orchard-hill-permaculture-berms/ https://homesteadandchill.com/pollinator-orchard-hill-permaculture-berms/#comments Tue, 11 Jul 2023 19:51:46 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2061173 Welcome to our new orchard on a hill! Come see how we used natural terraces, permaculture berms, burlap, and pollinator companion plants to transform a barren weedy hillside to a thriving new garden space. Video included!

The post New Pollinator Orchard Garden on a Hill (Permaculture Berms Terraces)  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

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Welcome to our new orchard and pollinator garden! Just a few months ago, this part of our property was nothing but a barren, weedy, sandy hillside. After terracing the hill with permaculture-style berms, it’s now full of love and life with fruit trees, California natives, and other drought-tolerant pollinator plants. This transformation has been one of our largest and most labor intensive projects yet, but one of my top favorites as well!

Come along to see how we transformed the space over several months. In this post, you’ll find a video tour of the new orchard on a hill that also includes footage of all the work we did to create it.

I’ve also included a written summary and plenty of photos to outline the steps we took to design the space, clear weeds, contour the land to make natural terraces or berms, use burlap as natural weed fabric, select fruit trees and other orchard companion plants, install a solar-powered irrigation system, add mulch, rock and steel borders, and more. Your bound to pick up plenty of useful tips along the way!


If you’re here from YouTube and looking for the full list of plants I promised, jump to the complete plant list here.


Here’s a little before-during-after shot to wet your whistle. We started working on this space in January, planted everything in April, and the bottom photo was taken in late June.


Video Tour and Transformation


Watch this video to see our new orchard on a hill, including all the work and steps we took to create it.



Location and Design


Our new orchard on a hill is located on the far side of our property on a sunny, south-facing slope. The previous owners used it as a goat and horse pasture, thus keeping the weeds in check. After being here a couple years now, invasive weeds grew back with a vengeance. We wanted to put the space to much better use – and grow some food!

With any new garden project, I always consider wildlife and pollinators too. My goal was to add plenty of native and drought-tolerant plants to offer food and habitat for them, as well as increase pollination and fruit production in the orchard for us! Plus, they look pretty darn beautiful too. 

I knew right away we’d need to figure out a way to terrace the hill. Terraces help create level areas that are more easy and comfortable to work and spend time in. Even more, the water runoff was quite significant on this hill! Especially paired with our super sandy native soil, which has terrible water absorption and retention. Terracing hills reduces water runoff and therefore increases the water absorption and availability to the plants growing on it!

At first, I contemplated bringing in a bunch of stone or blocks to build up rock wall terraces. Yet after terracing a much smaller area at our last property, I quickly realized that would be far too costly and laborious on this much larger scale, especially because we intended to do 100% of the work ourselves (and I’m not getting any younger over here)! So, we decided we’d try our hand at contouring the land and creating permaculture berms to terrace the hill instead. 


The top photo shows what the area looked like most of the year (super dry, tall dead weeds). We started the project in January during a rainy winter, so things were temporarily more green then… and less dusty, which actually improved working conditions.
My rough vision for the space


Site Prep


The first step in the orchard hill project was to clear the area of weeds – which we did entirely by hand, shovel, and rake. This stage took several weeks, working for a few hours and a couple days a week. We definitely could have brought in a tiller or tractor to make the work much faster (and easier), yet we wanted to avoid tilling and also pull up as much of the roots and seed heads as possible. Plus it was an extraordinarily rainy winter, so I enjoyed being outside and getting my hands in the soil whenever I could. 

After clearing the weeds, we played with math, stakes, and drew lines in the sand to plan and outline key features: where the berms, trees, and pathways may go. This enabled us to determine how many terraces to create, how wide each level would be, how many trees we could fit while still providing adequate space between them, and finalize other decisions before “breaking ground” and starting to terrace the hill. 


Aaron used an edging shovel to dig under and pop up the weeds (including the roots) and I went around after him to pick them up, shaking off excess soil as I went. The most common weed here is mullein, which has some interesting applications in herbalism, but is invasive nonetheless. There were also a few small native sagebrushes that we carefully relocated further up the hill.


Terracing the Hillside (Making Permaculture Berms)


Next, it was time to start forming the terraces and berms. Let’s back up and break this part down a bit:


What is a berm?


A berm is a natural or man-made mound of earth (usually made from compacted soil, rocks, and/or other natural material) to create a terrace or shelf, most often on a slope or hill.  In landscaping and permaculture, berms are used to contour the land, break up and add variation to a space, create planting zones, and most importantly, to divert water runoff in a more favorable way

Berms are often used in conjunction with swales, which are low depressions or shallow ditches that also help to facilitate improved drainage, water retention, and vegetation in an area. The middle of our terraces have a slight depression, and we also created one rock-lined swale to divert runoff from the steepest slope to a nearby tree. 


April. Freshly-made and planted berms. You can see a slight depression/swale near the trees (where Aaron is standing) where most of the water will infiltrate.
May. The same berm about a month later.
The same berms and plant growth by the end of June.
A rock-lined swale we created at the base of the steepest hill, re-directing water flow over to a nearby berm and fig tree rather than continuing down the path and hill.


Forming berms for our orchard hill


We created berms with a combination of native soil and bulk soil and compost we brought in. Adding higher-quality bulk soil and compost served two purposes: 1) to better help level and build up the berms (reducing the amount of native soil we had to move), and also 2) offer more nutrients and microbial life to the trees and plants that would grow here.

  • First, we used sturdy 36″ wide landscape rakes to scrape and dig into the uphill side of each terrace, pulling the native soil downhill several feet to both level the space and form the berm below. Again, our native soil is super sandy so it was possible to do this with rakes and muscle power alone, though different tools (e..g shovels, backhoe) may be required for different soil types.

  • We started at the top of the hill, forming the shape of the top terraces and berms first. Then we moved down to the next terrace, where we cut and dug into the base of the berm above, pulled back the soil, and repeated the process moving downhill. See photos below.

  • Once we created the rough terraced berms with native soil alone, we brought in bulk soil and compost to augment them. We dumped loads throughout every terrace, and then used the same wide landscape rakes to spread and smooth it out – focusing the majority of the material on the top and face of the berms. 

Using landscape rakes to loosen and pull soil from uphill to mound up downhill, one level at at time. We were actually thankful we had so much rain that winter, which helped the sandy soil hold form better than if it were totally dry.
The progress of forming berms with native soil alone, until it was time to bring in bulk soil and compost to beef them up.
It really started to take shape after adding bulk soil and compost!
Spreading most of the bulk material on the front side of the terraces and berms.
We added about a 2″ layer to the lower flat area too, just to give the plants a little extra organic matter and nutrients.



Helping the berms hold shape


When making natural terraces or berms, there is always a small risk that they could shift or settle with time – and even more so on a slope. I was definitely concerned about this, especially since our native soil is so soft and sandy. So, we did a few things to help our berms hold shape:

  • After building up the berms with bulk soil and compost, we gently compacted the soil by laying down plywood and lightly stamping on it. (The soil was far too soft to use a traditional tamper, the edges of the berms would have just collapsed). 

  • We covered the entire orchard space with burlap (explained more below), including an extra layer on the face of the berms. The burlap is tucked tight against the front of the terraces, hugging and holding the soil in place until the plant roots grow in. 
  • Next we planted dozens of low-growing, trailing plants along the front face of the berms along with several shrubs and trees on top. As the plants grow in, their roots will really help to stabilize the soil. 
  • Finally, the addition of mulch will help the berms stay more moist, encourage plant root expansion, and further support the terrace structure. We’ll also avoid walking on the berm edges until they become more established. 

To help everything hold shape, we walked around on top of this plywood to lightly compact the edge of the berms across the entire terrace.
Burlap will also help the berms hold shape until the plant roots grow in to stabilize them.
After planting.
A couple months later. I intentionally planted quite densely on the berm faces so the mass of plant foliage and roots will support the berms once the burlap eventually biodegrades.


Burlap Ground Cover 


After forming the terraces and berms, we immediately covered them in burlap – especially because it kept raining on us, and I was afraid all our hard work was going to wash away! We chose to use untreated burlap as a natural alternative to traditional weed barrier fabric in this project. 

Burlap is biodegradable and will break down within a year or two, feeding the soil organic matter as it does. So while it won’t offer long-lasting weed protection, it will be enough to help smother the weeds for the first season or two, plus help support the berm structure until the plants get established. Burlap also acts like mulch (which we added on top later) and helps with runoff and water retention too. 

Originally, we ordered several long rolls of natural untreated burlap (similar to this burlap but even wider) from a local landscape supplier. The shipment kept getting delayed, and delayed… and eventually we were told it was lost in transit. With significant rainstorms on the horizon and sandy soil sloughing more every day, we changed plans and decided to use burlap squares we could readily source locally instead. You may also be able to find burlap coffee sacks (for free!) from local coffee roasters, which are ideal for smaller projects. 

The burlap we ended up using was a bit thinner than the rolls we’d hoped for, so we laid down two layers across the entire orchard area, and four layers (two squares, folded in half) across the front face of the berms. The burlap is held in place with 6″ galvanized landscape staples.


Taking a break. My back was pretty angry by this point in the project!
After covering the lower area in burlap too, and adding the moongate trellis.


Fruit Tree Variety Selection


Believe it or not, narrowing down (and locating) our selection of fruit tree varieties was one of the more difficult tasks of this entire project! I feel like every time I settled on a “final” list of varieties, we either couldn’t find a certain one or I found something even more tantalizing (which then threw off the pollinator partner varieties I’d selected too). I also really wanted some almond trees, but ultimately accepted they’re not known to do well in our area. 

When considering fruit tree varieties for your garden, there are so many things to consider. In addition to sounding tasty, it’s important to choose varieties that are compatible with your growing zone and chill hour requirements, tree size and spacing needs, and also if they need another variety for cross-pollination to produce a respectable crop. Learn more about choosing the best fruit trees for your climate here, or dive into this lesson all about fruit tree chill hours. 



Here on the Central Coast of California (San Luis Obispo county, zone 9, about 400-500 chill hours) the fruit trees varieties we chose for orchard hill include:



We were able to source all of our trees from a handful of local nurseries, with the exception of the Desert King Fig (my fave), which we got online from Nature Hills Nursery. We were honestly thrilled at the quality and condition of the tree when it arrived! Fast Growing Trees is another excellent reputable online tree supplier.



Other Edibles


In addition to the fruit trees, we also planted several pineapple guavas, blueberries (Emerald, Jewel, and Sunshine Blue), and kiwis in the new orchard hill space. Fuzzy kiwis have male and female plants, and both are required to set fruit. So, we planted two females (Saanichton and Vincent) up our gorgeous moongate trellis, and a Tomori male kiwi along a nearby fence for pollination. In other parts of the property, we also have plums, limes, lemons, oranges, pomegranates, apricots, grapes, and several more fig, peach, and apple trees. 

See related grow guides for figs, avocados, and pineapple guava here.


Fuzzy kiwi planted up each side of the Gracie moongate arbor


Planting Fruit Trees


Learn best practices for planting fruit trees in this comprehensive guide. In summary, dig a hole that is about twice as wide but only as deep as the existing root ball or pot. Maintain the top of the rootball and root collar at or just above the surrounding soil level when planting, and never bury a tree trunk or pile mulch up around it! It’s best to backfill the planting hole with mostly native soil, though we do also like to add some higher quality soil and well-aged compost as well. Do not fertilize at the time of planting. 

It’s best to space fruit trees at least 10 feet apart (e.g. smaller varieties or those that will be kept pruned) and up to 20 feet for larger varieties. Maintaining about 12 to 15 feet between them, we were able to fit 9 fruit trees on the terraced portion of orchard hill, along with several more off to the side and along the lower fence line. We planted the fruit trees closer to the berms and left a wider pathway behind them on the more flat portion of the terraces. 

Gophers are rampant in this area, so we have to plant every tree in a large durable gopher basket to protect the root ball. Learn how to make a DIY gopher cage from hardware cloth here, or buy sturdy gopher baskets here. I also put together this list of over 50 gopher-resistant plants for California and beyond.


Before laying down the burlap on top of the terraces, we used a broad fork and shovel to mix in the higher-quality bulk soil and compost in a 4 foot diameter around where each tree would be planted.
Planting the first tree – a Pink Lady apple.


Orchard Companion Plants and Pollinators


Next up: it was time to plant all the beautiful native and drought-tolerant pollinator plants. California poppies, rosemary, rock rose, catmint, lavender, sea daisies, CA buckwheat, fuchsia, comfrey, and more! We also scattered California native wildflower seeds in the open fields around the perimeter or the orchard. See the complete list of orchard companion plants below. 

Honestly, planting these was one of the most physically taxing jobs from the entire orchard hill project, but also SO rewarding to see once they were all in the ground! We chose to plant them after the burlap went down – so the soil and berms would hold in place, and so we wouldn’t have to try to tuck burlap all between them after the fact. It was easy to cut holes in the burlap where needed. I also came up with a super handy hack for planting on a slope to prevent the holes from collapsing! Check it out below.


When planting on the face of the berms/slope, I knew the loose soil would want to cave in on me. So I cut an old plastic pot in half (and removed the bottom) to create a brace to hold the planting hole open as I worked. After cutting a hole in the burlap (I cut an X and tuck the flaps under), I was able to insert it into the hill at a slight downward angle, push the soil down and aside to make a planting hole, insert the rootball, pull out the brace, and pack extra soil around as needed.


Comfrey in a Permaculture Orchard


Comfrey is a fantastic multi-purpose companion plant in a permaculture orchard. So much so, it deserves its own little spotlight here! Comfrey is known as a “dynamic accumulator”. With its deep taproot, comfrey is exceptional at drawing up nutrients from the soil and storing them in its tissues. 

We plan to use comfrey for “chop and drop mulch”. Once or twice a year, we will cut the comfrey back, chop it up in small pieces, and use it as green mulch around the base of the trees – where those concentrated nutrients will return to the soil and feed the fruit trees. Even more, comfrey can be used in herbal medicine and topical healing salves, to make nutrient-rich fertilizer teas, and native bumblebees absolutely love the flowers!

NOTE: Readily spreading by seed, common comfrey is considered invasive in many environments. We grow Russian Bocking 14 comfrey instead. Many permaculturists consider Russian Bocking 14 the best orchard companion variety because it grows very robustly but isn’t invasive. The seeds are sterile, so it can only be planted from rhizomes.


We planted four clumps of comfrey between trees throughout orchard hill. One “clump” = a group of three rhizomes, spaced about a foot apart each.
A nice patch of comfrey, which we’ll need to cut back and use as mulch soon!
Badger loves to nap under the large comfrey leaves


Complete Plant List


In addition to the edibles and fruit trees (listed above), here is a complete list of the other companion plants we chose for the orchard hill space:


Common Name and VarietySpecies
Aloe Vera – CoralAloe striata 
Blue fescue – Tomales BayFesuca idahoensis*
Blue fescue – Elijah blueFestuca glauca
Bush monkeyflower – EleanorMimulus x aurantiacus ‘Eleanor’*
Bush monkeyflower – Vibrant RedDiplacus aurantiacus var. puniceus*
California poppiesEschscholzia californica*
CA Red BuckwheatEriogonum grande rubescens*
CA Fuchsia – Sierra SalmonEpilobium (Zauschneria)*
Catmint – Nepta Walker’s LowNepeta x faassenii
Ceanothus – Yankee PointCeanothus griseus var. horizontalis*
Ceanothus – Ray HartmanCeanothus arboreus X Ceanothus griseus*
Ceanothus – ConchaCeanothus impressus x papillosus var. roweanus*
Comfrey – Russian Bocking 14Symphytum x uplandicum ‘Bocking 14’
Gold Coin DaisyAsteriscus maritimus
Lavender FrenchLavandula dentata
Lavender – PinnataLavandula pinnata buchii
Lavendula – Goodwin CreekLavandula x ginginsii
Lavender Spanish – PrimaveraLavandula stoechas
Lavender Spanish – Blueberry RufflesLavandula stoechas
Lithodora – Grace Ward diffusaLithodora diffusa
Penstemon – Foothill Penstemon heterophyllus*
Penstemon – Margarita BOPPenstemon heterophyllus*
Rock rose – Silver PinkCistus x argenteus ‘Silver Pink’
Rock rose – PurpleCistus Purpureus
Rock rose – Henfield brilliantHelianthemum
Rock rose – Hartswood RubyHelianthemum
Rock rose – Fire DragonHelianthemum
Rock rose – The BrideHelianthemum
Rosemary – trailing culinaryRosmarinus officinalis Prostratus
Rosemary – upright, BBQ and PinkRosmarinus officinalis
Salvia – Hummingbird SageSalvia spathacea*
Salvia – Big RedSalvia pentstemonoides
Salvia – Smoky LavenderSalvia greggii 
Scabiosa – Vivid VioletScabiosa columbaria
Seaside Daisy (Beach Aster)Erigeron W.R.*
Sea daisies – Santa BarbaraErigeron karvinskianus
ThymeSilver, English, and Red Creeping
Verbena – De la MinaVerbena lilacina*
Verbena – Homestead PurpleVerbena canadensis
Yarrow – Mini moonshineAchillea millefolium
Misc AnnualsCosmos, Bachelors Buttons
* denotes California native species

California Red Flowering Buckwheat
Red creeping thyme and Santa Barbara sea daisies make a great pollinator-friendly ground cover!
California poppies, catmint and rock rose
Sea daisies


Drip Irrigation System


And now one of the most essential elements: water! During the time we were working on contouring the land, we were also working on installing a drip irrigation system on the side. That included tapping into the main water line at the top of the hill, installing a 4-station valve manifold, a solar powered control panel, PVC lines down to the site, and then a 4-zone drip irrigation system weaving about the entire space. I put together a separate post and video tutorial on that process – check it out here.  We did this before mulch went down, and then covered the lines in mulch.


Four irrigation zones water the area: one for the trees, one for the berm shrubs, one to the lower flat pollinator area, and another along the far fenceline of trees and shrubs. It’s best to group plants with similar water needs into separate zones, and to reduce the demand on each zone to maintain better pressure!
We’ve done a lot of irrigation work in the past, but this was my first time building and installing an automatic valve manifold. I was feeling proud, and love the solar power component! See the full irrigation tutorial here.
Putting the emitters just above the plants on the top of the berms will help keep the berms moist and encourage the roots to grow back into them.


Mulch


Mulch is an essential part of an organic garden and landscaping. It offers numerous benefits including suppressing weeds, reducing runoff, improving soil’s organic matter and moisture retention (and thereby reducing water needs) and insulating plant roots against temperature extremes. It also makes the landscape look polished and sharp – like the final cherry on top! 

For the orchard hill project, we chose to use a “walk on bark” (sourced locally in bulk) that is like a blend of irregular shredded wood chips and chunkier bark bits. It is longer-lasting than shredded mulch (like gorilla hair) but holds in place better than classic bark mulch, especially on the slopes. We opted to not use local tree wood chips or “chip drop” for this project, just to be extra cautious as to not introduce any tree diseases to the orchard.

After planting all the plants, we spread mulch about three inches thick around the entire space, with the exception around the base of trees. It’s best to avoid piling mulch up right around a tree trunk, so leave a couple feet of clear space around it.  We plan to refresh and top it off with more mulch as needed every few years. Read the pros and cons of 8 common types of mulch here.


Bulk delivery of walk-on bark mulch, which we loaded with pitchforks into the UTV
Backed up the UTV as close as possible, dumped into wheelbarrows, then spread mulch throughout the site with landscape rakes.
Just after the last load of mulch went down


Rock & Steel Borders


Though we opted to not build rock wall terraces, I still wanted to bring in some landscaping rocks to add dimension and further define the space. We added a row of large cobbles to top of each berm, which also helps us keep track of where the irrigation lines are and prevents us from stepping on the edge of the berm. The rocks also provide ideal habitat for western fence lizards, who help keep the insect population in check too!

We also installed steel edging along the uphill and outer edge of the orchard hill space. The edging will hold in mulch, help keep weeds out (like the creeping invasive ice plant), and also stop water runoff – forcing it to infiltrate along the uppermost terrace instead. We like to use the hammer-in corten steel edging from Edge Right. We used the same edging around our raised bed garden project too.


I think I did about 9373542 squats laying all these rocks.
Happy Western Fence Lizard in their new habitat
The rocks also give us a nice visual reminder to not to step right on the edge of the berms.
Steel edging runs along the uphill and far side of the new space


The Finished Space + Before-and-Afters


Now it’s time to sit back, relax, and watch the space grow. Well, there will be a tad more maintenance and upkeep to come (pruning, deadheading, fertilizing, refreshing mulch…) but it sure feels good to have all of the heavy lifting done!

The California poppies really stole the show this spring
We created a nice little sit spot under the oak at the top of the hill, overlooking the orchard below.
Badger spends much of his time lounging in the new orchard


Thank you for touring our new orchard on a hill!


Ooof! I told you this was one of our largest projects ever. I realize that was a lot of information to digest, and many the things we did may not exactly apply to other sites or climates. Yet I hope this gave you plenty of fun ideas and useful tips nonetheless! Please feel free to ask any questions or just say hello in the comments below. I really appreciate you tuning in today!


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What Are Fruit Tree Chill Hours? Helpful Charts + Area Maps https://homesteadandchill.com/fruit-tree-chill-hours-chart/ https://homesteadandchill.com/fruit-tree-chill-hours-chart/#comments Wed, 04 May 2022 18:50:44 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2044048 It's essential to pay attention to chill hours when selecting fruit trees for your garden! Come learn all about chill hours, including which trees need them and how to find the number of chill hours in your area. Charts and maps included!

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As a gardener, it’s important to understand chill hours, especially if you’re growing fruit trees. After all, selecting a fruit tree variety with the wrong chilling hour requirements for your area can lead to lackluster fruit production – or no fruit at all! So read along to learn about chill hours, including why they’re important, which trees need them, and how to find the number of chill hours in your area.

I’ve also included some general tips on selecting fruit trees (like, don’t forget the cross-pollinators!) and a handy chill hour chart for dozens of popular fruit tree varieties at the end of this post.



What are chill hours? 


In the world of horticulture, chill hours refer to the total number of hours between 32 and 45°F that an area receives on average each winter. Denoted as “CU” (chill units), chill hours are essential for certain plants to break dormancy and set fruit come spring.

Chill hours don’t need to be consecutive. Rather, chill hours are noted as the cumulative total hours in that temperature range occurring between November and March. Hours below 32°F don’t count. And for every day that reaches over 60°F, one half-hour of chilling hours is subtracted from the total. 

It’s crucial to pay attention to chill hours when selecting fruit trees for your garden. If not, you may spend precious time, money and energy tending to a tree that will never bear fruit for you! For instance, a fruit tree that needs 800 chill hours will not produce fruit if planted somewhere that only receives 500 chill hours. Read the tag or description of the tree; it will tell you how many chill hours it needs!

Chill hours are different from cold hardiness, which is the lowest temperature that a tree or plant can tolerate without dying. 


A few apricots ripen on a branch, an apricot flower is blooming right next to the closest apricot. The trees leaves cover the background in greenish to gold-red in color.
We have an old, super prolific apricot tree here in temperate zone 9. (unknown variety)


Why do trees need chill hours?


Scientists still don’t fully understand the physiological changes that occur in trees in response to chilling hours. What is known is that cold temperatures trigger a hormonal response that allows buds to develop into viable flowers and future fruit once the weather begins to warm up again. Without adequate chill hours, the fruit tree’s flower buds may not bloom in spring, or the flowers may open unevenly – resulting in lesser, late, or no fruit production at all. Leaf growth may also be interrupted or delayed.   

Fruit trees aside, many other plants rely on cold temperatures to grow well too. Blueberries, kiwis, garlic, echinacea, native milkweed, tulips, nut trees and other deciduous trees – just to name a few. You may also hear this referred to as “vernalization” or “cold stratification” (which are two slightly different things, but similar concepts). 


Peach blossoms are flowering on a small peach tree that is devoid of its leaves. There are a few more fruit trees in the immediate background before giving way to larger oak trees.
Peach blossoms in spring


What types of fruit trees require chill hours?


Most fruit trees require some chill hours in order to bear fruit. Peaches, plums, nectarines, apples, figs, cherries, apricots, persimmons, pears, pomegranates, and more. Aside from a chilling requirement, these fruit trees all have something else in common: they are deciduous, or lose their leaves over winter. On the other hand, avocado, citrus and mango trees (some of the few evergreen fruit trees) do not require chilling hours at all.  

Among those listed above, apples, pears, and stone fruit are notorious for needing the greatest number of chill hours, while persimmons, figs, and pomegranates require the least overall. However, the number of chill hours needed varies greatly depending on the cultivar – even among the same type of fruit tree! 

Take apples for example. Most apple varieties need between 500 to 1000 chill hours. Ever-popular Gala apples require around 500 chill hours. Golden Delicious needs 600-700. Red Delicious needs up to 800 hours or greater. Yet there are several varieties of apples that only need 200-300 chill hours (such as Anna or Golden Dorsett) making those a great choice for mild climate gardeners. 


As you start to look around, you’ll see there are fruit tree varieties with chilling requirements suitable for every climate or growing zone! 


The underneath canopy of an Anna apple tree. Many fruits, ranging in ripeness hang from various limbs.
Our old Anna apple (at our last homestead) gave us an abundance of fruit in Grover Beach, CA (9b).


How to find how many chill hours my area receives?


There are a lot of resources available online to help you find the number of chill hours in your area. See the map below for a general idea. I’ve also put together a list of a few chill hour lookup tools below, but you can usually find the answer with a quick Google search for your town or county too!


A "Chill Hours Map" of the United States, various colors are used to correlate to the amount of chill hours. Orange, yellow, shades of green, to blue and purple are used to affix chill hours to those colors. Hours from 200 all the way to 3400 are used.
This map is admittedly pretty general, and doesn’t account for microclimates. Our area is shown as 200 chill hours on this map, but in reality we receive about 400 on average. See the tools below for more localized and specific information.


Chill hour lookup tools:



Choosing Fruit Trees for Your Area 


When choosing fruit trees, be sure to select varieties that need the same number or fewer chill hours than your area receives. For example, our area gets an average of 400 chill hours, so we’d want to select varieties that need 400 hours or less. That’s not to say varieties with low chilling requirements can’t be grown in areas that receive more though! Many varieties are well-adapted to both mild and colder climates. But generally speaking, the higher the chill hours needed, the more cold-hardy the variety is. That said, be sure to choose trees that are compatible with your hardiness zone!

Keep in mind that average chill hours are reported. Meaning, some years may accumulate more or less chill hours depending on the weather that particular winter. Therefore, it’s wise to plant a variety of cultivars with a range of chilling requirements to offset odd years. 

Yet if you have limited growing space, play it safe by selecting fruit trees with chill hours needs well below your average to help ensure a good crop despite a slightly warmer winter. In our area, that would mean planting fruit tree varieties that only require 100-300 chilling hours (as opposed to the full 400).

If possible, buy trees from local nurseries. In addition to the perk of supporting a local business, they’ll most likely carry fruit tree varieties that are well-suited for your climate. The staff is usually quite knowledgeable and willing to provide guidance as well! Otherwise, Fast Growing Trees and Nature Hills Nursery are two reputable online tree retailers. 


DeannaCat is standing next to three fruit trees in 5 gallon containers. A peach, plum, and nectarine, all chosen to fit our chill hour requirements. A large, mature apricot tree is directly behind them.
Me, Bear, and our three newest fruit trees: a Double Delight nectarine, Santa Rosa Plum, and Santa Barbara peach – all of which need about 300 chill hours, fewer than our areas average.


Don’t forget a cross-pollinator!


Many fruit trees need a partner tree nearby for cross-pollination and to set fruit, including most apples, pears, plums, sweet cherries, and avocados. Two trees are considered a good match for cross-pollination based on their pollen type and when their flowers bloom. Most often, it is a second variety of the same type of tree (e.g. a Fuji apple and a Pink Lady apple). 

Some trees may be described as self-fruitful, self-fertile, or self-pollinating. This means they will produce decent fruit without a cross-pollination partner nearby. However, most “self-fertile” trees often produce an even more bountiful harvest (in both size and quality) if a partner tree is provided! Refer to the description for the fruit tree variety you’re interested in for more specific pointers. 

The important work of fruit tree cross-pollination is usually mostly done by bees, though the wind and other pollinators can play a small role too. To cross-pollenize, bees can carry pollen quite a distance! A neighbor’s tree several blocks away may help to pollinate a tree in your yard. However, it’s recommended to keep partner trees within 100 feet or closer for the best pollination results. 


A bee is collecting pollen from a fruit tree flower, its hind leg has a large ball of pollen attached to it.


A fruit tree chill hours chart that contains various varieties of apples, apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, cherries, pears, and others along with their recommended chill hour amounts.
A flat wicker basket full of fresh apricots and white peaches. Beyond the basic are dahlia pants with two light purple flowers and a hydrangea plant with white flowers.
Apricots and white peaches from our orchard. Enjoy your harvest!


And that concludes this lesson on fruit tree chill hour requirements.


I hope this was helpful, and that you learned something new. (I actually learned a few new facts myself, which is always fun!) Now comes the hardest part: narrowing down your choices! Once you you’ve selected a few new fruit trees for your garden, be sure to pop over to our Tree Planting Guide; it’s full of tips for success. Feel free to ask any questions in the comments below. Also please consider pinning or sharing this post if you found it useful. Thank you for tuning in!


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DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

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18 Fantastic Fig Tree Varieties to Grow at Home https://homesteadandchill.com/fig-tree-varieties/ https://homesteadandchill.com/fig-tree-varieties/#comments Wed, 25 Aug 2021 21:25:01 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2035465 Welcome to the wonderful wide world of figs! Come explore the preferred climate, hardiness, growth habits, fruit characteristics, and other unique facts about 18 varieties of fig trees. Then you can choose what tickles your fig fancy most! 

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Welcome to the wonderful wide world of figs! Fig trees are beautiful and easy to grow at home, and will provide you with bountiful delicious fruit. There are a number of well-known types of figs, along with dozens (if not hundreds) of unique fig tree varieties for you to try. Big trees, little trees, those that thrive in high heat, others that bear best in cooler climates, and some that are exceptionally cold-hardy. Not sure where to start? Read along as we explore 18 fantastic varieties of figs to grow. 


This article will cover the preferred climate, hardiness, growth habits, fruit characteristics, and other unique facts about 18 different types of fig trees. Then you can choose what tickles your fig fancy most! 



Growing Fig Trees


This article is intended to be a follow-up to our “How to Grow Figs” guide. Please check that out here for in-depth information on planting, pruning, fertilizing, overwintering, pests, recipes and more. 

In summary, fig trees are considered subtropical or Mediterranean plants. They generally grow best in areas with long, warm, dry summers and mild winters (zones 7 through 10). However, certain hardy varieties can survive in zones 5 and 6, especially if additional protection is provided over winter. Furthermore, some fig tree varieties are adapted to more humidity or rain. 

Fig trees like ample sunshine, well-draining soil amended with compost or other organic matter, moderate to low water once established, and have modest fertilizer requirements. They can be pruned to maintain a petite size, and also take well to growing in large containers. Fig trees attract very few pests or diseases, making them an all-around low maintenance addition to your garden.


Fig Tree Varieties: At a Glance


Before we go into detail about each type of fig below, here is a quick list of fig varieties grouped by similar ideal growing conditions (though note that many of these can be grown in a wide range of climates too):

  • Best fig tree varieties for cooler coastal climates or the Pacific Northwest: Desert King, Corky’s Honey Delight, White Genoa, Excel, Osborne Prolific, Olympian

  • Best figs for hot dry climates: Penache Tiger Stripe, Black Mission, Violette de Bordeaux, Brown Turkey, Peter’s Honey, Ronde de Bordeaux, Yellow Long Neck

  • Figs that grow well in the South or humid climates: LSU Gold, LSU Purple, Celeste, Kadota, Peter’s Honey, Violette de Bordeaux

  • Most cold-hardy fig varieties: Chicago Hardy, followed by Celeste, Olympian, Brown Turkey, Peter’s Honey and Desert King


Various fig varieties are displayed amongst a white background. They vary in color from purple to bronze to different shades of green. A few of the figs have been cut open lengthwise revealing flesh that is varied in color from dark purple, light strawberry color, and golden honey.


Fig Tree Size & Containers


In the fig descriptions below, you’ll see growth habits and average mature tree size for each variety listed. Note that is the size the tree will reach if left unpruned and in the ground. Since figs take kindly to pruning, every variety can easily be maintained smaller than the sizes listed! Visit our fig grow guide for more information about pruning. Growing figs in containers will slightly constrict their growth and therefore naturally lend to a more petite tree as well. When growing figs in containers, we recommend choosing dwarf and semi-dwarf fig tree varieties when possible.


Figs & Cold Hardiness


Also listed below are the USDA hardiness zones and minimum temperatures that each type of fig can withstand. The zone range provided applies to trees planted in the ground. Unlike those planted in the ground, container tree roots are less insulated, leaving them more vulnerable and less hardy. Therefore, potted fig trees must be brought inside and/or protected during freezing conditions. 

Additionally, you can push the limits and grow a particular variety of fig in lower zones than those listed by keeping it in a container and protecting it over winter. Bring potted fig trees indoors or to another sheltered location such as a shed, garage, basement, or other place it will be protected from freezing. 

Furthermore, keep in mind that established fig trees are more cold-hardy than saplings. Offer young trees additional winter protection with deep mulch, frost blankets, and/or the shelter of a nearby wall or fence. 

Last but not least, rootstock is more resilient to the cold. In extreme freezing events, a fig tree may lose limbs or appear to die above ground, but the roots should survive and produce new growth come spring. Keeping this in mind, cold-climate gardeners may want to choose fig tree varieties that bear a good main crop, since extreme cold may kill last year’s wood growth and the associated breba crop.


A fig tree branch has four figs growing on it, each fruit has a pile of icy snow sitting atop it. Choose fig varieties that are most cold hardy for those in zones 5 and 6.
Chicago Hardy figs from Fast Growing Trees


Breba Crop versus Main Crop


Fig trees often produce several crops per year. Some varieties are renowned for their main crop, while others produce an especially impressive breba crop. Some do a little of both! Breba figs are the fruit that grow on the previous year’s wood and ripen early in the season, generally in spring to early summer. The main crop develops on the new branches grown the same year, and ripen in late summer to fall. 


Where to buy fig trees?


We like to buy fig trees from our local nurseries. In addition to supporting local small businesses, they usually stock fig varieties that grow well in our area! They’ll often special-order certain varieties we’re interested in when they’re not in stock too. Yet when we’re on the hunt for a particular cultivar that is hard to come by, we don’t shy away from online retailers as well. Fast Growing Trees, Four Winds Nursery, Monrovia, Nature Hills Nursery, Peaceful Valley, and Stark Brothers are a few reputable places to buy fig trees online. 


Now without further ado (and in no particular order), let’s dig deeper into our featured figs!


18 FANTASTIC FIG TREE VARIETIES


1) Black Mission


Zones: 7-10 

Cold-Hardy to: Down to 10 to 15°F for short periods of time. 

Growth Habits: Moderate and spreading growth, 15 to 30 feet tall and wide.

Fruit Characteristics: Black Mission figs bear medium to large purplish black fruit with strawberry jam colored flesh and sweet berry-like flavor. 

Breba or Main Crop: Light breba crop with heavy main crop 

Other Unique Facts: Black Mission is the most popular fig tree variety grown in California, as it produces best in hot and dry climates.


Buy Black Mission fig trees online from Fast Growing Trees or Nature Hills Nursery


A slate grey plate is full of dark purple to black skinned figs with bright strawberry flesh inside. One of the figs is cut open in half to reveal the stunningly beautiful flesh.
Black Mission Figs from Fast Growing Trees


2) Brown Turkey


Zones: 7-10

Cold-Hardy to: Brown Turkey fig trees will need protection (e.g. frost blankets) when temperatures reach 10°F, and is slightly more cold-hardy than Black Mission.

Growth Habits: Moderate growth rate, reaching 10 to 20 feet tall and wide

Fruit Characteristics: Brown Turkey figs are medium in size, and have brownish rusted purple skin with light pink-amber flesh inside. Their flavor is described as quintessentially “figgy” with mild sweetness reminiscent of melon and honey, but less complex or intense than many other fig varieties. 

Breba or Main Crop: Brown Turkey fig trees boast two crops per year, with a large breba crop in late spring and a main crop in early fall.

Other Unique Facts: The main crop is reported to be much more sweet and flavorful than the breba crop. The figs are prone to splitting at the bottom when they’re ripe and ready to harvest, revealing some of the flesh. 


Buy Brown Turkey fig trees online from Fast Growing Trees or Nature Hills Nursery


A metal bowl is full of bronze to brown colored figs that are medium in size. For those with long and warm growing seasons, choose fig varieties that have two crops per year so you can enjoy figs for months on end.
Brown Turkey figs from Fast Growing Trees


3) Celeste


Zones: 6-10

Cold-Hardy to: Withstands temperatures down to 10°F when planted outside. Celeste fig trees are considered one of the more cold-hardy fig varieties.

Growth Habits: Dwarf fig variety. Trees will grow 5 to 10 feet tall and wide when mature.  

Fruit Characteristics: Small to medium sized fruit. Bronzed purple skin color with reddish pink flesh. Also known as the “Sugar Fig”, Celeste figs have a light refreshing berry flavor, chewy texture, and crunchy seeds – great for fresh eating or preserving.

Breba or Main Crop: Very light breba crop with most fruit production coming during the main crop

Other Unique Facts: Celeste figs usually ripen earlier in the season than many other fig varieties, and can bear fruit in the first year of growth. They’re also known for being especially prolific, packing on a lot of fruit on compact trees. Between their exceptionally large leaves and “closed eye” feature (on the bottom end of the fig), Celeste fig trees have increased resistance to pests, disease, humidity, and splitting when ripe. 


Buy Celeste fig trees online from Fast Growing Trees or Nature Hills Nursery


Purple bottomed figs with more bronze towards their neck and in focus. One of the figs has been cut in half lengthwise, revealing an incredibly rich and vibrant dark amber pulp within.
Celeste Figs, available from Fast Growing Trees


4) Penache Tiger Stripe


Zones: 8-10

Cold-Hardy to: The Panache Tiger fig is best-suited for climates with hot summers, warmer winters, and is not as cold-hardy as other fig varieties (down to about 15°F for short periods of time). Does very well in the southwest. 

Growth Habits: A semi-dwarf fig tree variety that reaches 12-15 feet at maturity.

Fruit Characteristics: Panache Tiger Stripe figs are incredibly striking and unique, with green and pale yellow striped skin and dark red flesh. Once ripe, they boast a ripe strawberry and raspberry flavor with jam-like consistency. Top-notch for fresh eating, dried figs, or preserves.

Breba or Main Crop: Late-ripening main crop. 

Other Unique Facts: Panache Tiger Stripe figs require a long, warm growing season. During that time, they develop a high sugar content that makes them so delicious!


Buy Penache Tiger Stripe fig trees online here


Many green and yellow striped figs sit atop fig branches that are mostly devoid of leaves. They resemble mini hot air balloons, shooting upwards towards the sky. Some fig varieties are incredibly vibrant in color but the Tiger Stripe are the most striking.
Tiger Stripe Figs from One Green World


5) Desert King aka King


Zones: 6-10

Cold-Hardy to: down to 5°F once established

Growth Habits: Fast-growing compared to other fig tree varieties, and can grow to 15 to 25 tall and wide.

Fruit Characteristics: A green-skinned or “white” fig that stays green as it ripens. Because of this, we find the birds are less attracted to pecking at the ripe fruit. Bears very large fruit with green to pale yellow skin and exceedingly sweet, juicy berry-flavored reddish pink flesh.

Breba or Main Crop: Desert King is known for its exceptional breba crop, with a possible small main crop in warm regions.

Other Unique Facts: Despite it’s dry heat-invoking name, Desert King figs thrive in cool climates – making it a favorite fig variety in the Pacific Northwest. It reliably bears good fruit in the rain, and also grows well in coastal or high-elevation regions. We love our Desert King here on the foggy Central Coast of California!


Buy Desert King fig trees online here (or here)


DeannaCat is holding a Desert King fig in her palm that has been sliced in half lengthwise. It is taking up almost her entire hand due to its size. The inside pulp is incredibly dark amber in color, en extremely ripe fig no doubt.
One of the largest Desert King figs we’ve ever grown


6) Kadota


Zones: 7-9

Cold-Hardy to: Generally hardy to 15°F, though the rootstock of in-ground trees may overwinter outdoors down to 5°F in zones 5 and 6 with proper winter protection – such as a sheltered planting location, use of frost blankets, and deep mulch.

Growth Habits: Moderate growth rate, reaching 15 to 25 feet

Fruit Characteristics: Fruit are small to medium in size with yellowish green skin and amber colored flesh. Ripens in the fall. The fruit becomes increasingly sweet with hot summer weather. With a slightly coarse texture, Kadota figs are ideal for drying, canning, or preserves.  

Breba or Main Crop: Main crop producing with little-to-no breba crop

Other Unique Facts: Kadota is the fig variety used in the classic chewy Fig Newton cookies! It’s also known to have good humidity tolerance. 



Four green figs sit next to each other in a slight jumble, some of them are more green in color while the riper fig is more yellowish green. One has been cut in half to show its amber flesh.
Kadota Figs


7) Violette de Bordeaux 


Zones: 7-9

Cold-Hardy to: 5°F

Growth Habits: Violette de Bordeaux is a semi-dwarf fig tree variety that is great for small spaces. It can reach 10 to 12 feet if planted in the ground, but is container-friendly where the size can be further managed.

Fruit Characteristics: Small purplish black fruit with red pulp and a luscious complex berry flavor. Excellent for fresh eating, baking, or preserving.

Breba or Main Crop: Both, but with a heavier main crop.

Other Unique Facts: Violette de Bordeaux is known to have one of the most sweet and rich flavor profiles of all the fig varieties! Thrives in dry heat as well as humidity, though fruit may crack more in wet conditions.


Buy Violette de Bordeaux fig trees online here


Dark purple to black skinned figs sit behind a fig that has been cut in half revealing a dark strawberry flesh. Choose fig varieties that are of interest to you and will do well in your zone.
Violette de Bordeaux figs


8) Chicago Hardy


Zones: 5-10

Cold-Hardy to: One of the more cold-hardy fig varieties. While the branches may die off during such extreme cold, the rootstock can survive down to negative 20 degrees F!

Growth Habits: Compact bushy growth and container-friendly. Mature trees reach 10 to 12 feet.

Fruit Characteristics: Chicago Hardy figs are medium size and have burgundy purple skin with light pink flesh. The flavor is light, sweet, and strawberry-like, described as “fruity berry” (rather than deeply rich or complex).

Breba or Main Crop: An early producing main crop (late summer to early fall) with a very light or lacking breba crop – especially if the old growth was hit by extreme cold the previous winter.

Other Unique Facts: Chicago Hardy figs are prized for their cold-hardiness, easygoing nature, versatile fruit use (great fresh or preserve) and also their abundant yield! Mature Chicago Hardy figs can bear upwards of 100 figs per season.


Buy Chicago Hardy fig trees online from Fast Growing Trees or Nature Hills Nursery


Many purple to brownish bronze figs sit stacked atop each other with their stems pointing upwards.
Chicago Hardy figs from Fast Growing Trees


9) Excel


Zones: 7-10

Cold-Hardy to: Down to 5°F when provided extra winter protection. Like Desert King, the Excel fig variety is well-adapted to a wide range of climates and produces sweet fruit even in areas with cooler summers.

Growth Habits: 12 to 20 feet, most commonly maxing out at 12 to 15 high and wide at full maturity 

Fruit Characteristics: Medium to large sized yellow-green fruit with amber pulp. Very sweet, rich, delicious honey flavor. The fruit are resistant to splitting as they become ripe, even under adverse conditions. 

Breba or Main Crop: Two crops per year, with a light breba crop and more robust main crop.

Other Unique Facts: Dubbed one of “the best all-around white fig varieties”, Excel is actually a fairly new type of fig – created as a hybrid from Kadota figs in 1975. 


Buy Excel fig trees online here


Two golden yellow green figs sit in the background while a fig that has been cut in half is using the figs in the back as a prop to sit themselves up slightly. Their flesh is honey amber in color, fig varieties vary on the color of their skin as well as the color of their flesh.
Excel Figs, available from Nature Hills Nursery


10) Corky’s Honey Delight


Zones: 7-10

Cold-Hardy to: 5°F

Growth Habits: A semi-dwarf fig tree variety, growing up to 10 to 12 feet.

Fruit Characteristics: The green skin changes to a light yellowish green when ripe and has amber pink colored flesh. Living up to its name, the flavor is delightfully sweet with notes of honey.

Breba or Main Crop: Known for two bountiful crops per year, a strong breba and main crop. 

Other Unique Facts: The Corky’s Honey Delight fig variety was bred and created by Monrovia. This is one of our personal favorite types of figs; we’ve planted several!


DeannaCat is holding a Honey Delight fig that has been cut in half, revealing its bright strawberry jam colored flesh. There are various figs in the background that have been cut in half, all of them revealing various shades of rich strawberry preserves.
Corky’s Honey Delight figs (with some Desert King in background too) from our trees on the Central Coast of CA.


11) White Genoa


Zones: 7-9

Cold-Hardy to: Rootstock hardy down 5°F

Growth Habits: Semi-dwarf fig variety growing 12 to 15 feet

Fruit Characteristics: Very large fruit with yellowish-green skin and light honey yellow to rose colored pulp. Wonderful sweet honey berry flavor, excellent for fresh eating but also great for preserving. 

Breba or Main Crop: Light breba crop with heavier main cop

Other Unique Facts: This fig tree variety tends to be a heavy and consistent bearer, even from a young age. White Genoa grows and ripens best in cooler coastal or temperate climates. It’s not recommended to grow in hot humid environments since the fruit has a large open “eye” on the bottom that leads to easy spoilage in wet summer conditions.


Two green figs sit atop a wicker background. One of the figs has its "eye" pointing straight ahead while the other fig has been cut in half to reveal its honey amber flesh. Choose fig varieties that have a closed "eye" if you have wet growing conditions to reduce spoilage.


12) Peter’s Honey 


Zones: 6-10

Cold-Hardy to: 5°F

Growth Habits: Medium growth rate. Some sources say Peter’s Honey is a semi-dwarf fig variety and reaches 12 to 18 feet tall, while others claim it may grow to 15 to 25 feet tall with a 12 to 15 foot spread. Either way, it is known to be container-friendly.

Fruit Characteristics: Medium-size, round figs with greenish yellow skin and amber colored flesh. Reliably bears very sweet, tender, high quality fruit with a syrup-like honey flavor. Superb for eating fresh.

Breba or Main Crop: Produces two crops per year

Other Unique Facts: Native to Sicily, this fig variety ripens best in climates with warm summers. Temperate coastal zones can create warmer microclimates by planting the tree along a sunny south-facing wall or fence. 


Buy Peter’s Honey fig trees online here


Four halves of figs have their rosy golden pulp facing upwards. Their light green to yellow skin is visible along the their sides.
Peter’s Honey figs from Mountain Figs


13) LSU Gold


Zones: 8-11

Cold-Hardy to: 15 to 20°F

Growth Habits: Fast-growing, medium-size tree that will reach 8 to 15 feet tall and 8 to 10 feet wide

Fruit Characteristics: Very large fruit with light yellow green skin and a rosy blush, and pink to red inner pulp. Offers a richly sweet flavor and is excellent for fresh eating, drying or preserves.

Breba or Main Crop: Main crop, ripening in midsummer

Other Unique Facts: Grows especially well in the Southern US. Known to be a heavy producer. This fig tree variety was bred and introduced by the Louisiana State University AgCenter in 2001. Container-friendly and heat tolerant. 


Bright yellow green figs hanging from a branch amongst a few leaves. Fig varieties such as the LSU Gold are great for southern gardeners.
LSU Gold figs from the LSU AgCenter

14) LSU Purple


Zones: 8b-11

Cold-Hardy to: 15 to 20°F

Growth Habits: LSU purple is a smaller fig tree variety, reaching 8 to 10 feet and considered fully mature at 5 years of age. Ideal for containers.

Fruit Characteristics: Medium-sized purple fruit with light raspberry colored flesh. Extra-sweet flavor with hints of caramel, brown sugar, dates and persimmon. 

Breba or Main Crop: May bear up to three crops per year in climates with warm winters – with a light breba crop in spring, the heaviest main crop in summer, and potential small crop in fall through winter.

Other Unique Facts: The LSU purple fig variety was introduced in 1991 by the LSU AgCenter, where it was bred for superior disease resistance and the sweetest fruit possible. Known to produce quality fruit earlier than most fig tree varieties, in the first year or two after planting. Grows very well in the Southeast despite the high heat and humidity.


Buy LSU Purple fig trees online here


Many figs are growing on various branches, they range in color from green to light reddish purple. The branches are fairly barren with spots of figs and leaves here and there.
LSU Purple figs. Image from the LSU AgCenter. Trees available to buy online from


15) Osborne Prolific


Zones: 7-9

Cold-Hardy to: down to 5°F 

Growth Habits: Moderate growth rate, reaching 12 to 20 feet tall and wide

Fruit Characteristics: Medium size bronzed purple fruit with honey amber flesh. Delicate figgy flavor with notes of caramel, sweet berry and honey. Said to be pleasantly moist but not as juicy as some fig varieties.

Breba or Main Crop: Modest spring breba crop with a heavier main crop in late summer or fall

Other Unique Facts: As its name suggests, this fig tree variety has a reputation for being a prolific producer. Also happily grows in cooler coastal climates and can bear fruit in partial shade. 


Buy Osborne Prolific fig trees online here


Fresh harvest figs that are light purple in color with rose honey flesh are clustered together on top of a fig leaf. Choose fig varieties that are optimal for your growing zone for a better harvest.
Osborne Prolific figs, available to from Nature Hills Nursery


16) Yellow Long Neck


Zones: 7-10

Cold-Hardy to: Down to 5 to 10°F  when provided extra winter protection.

Growth Habits: One of the most petite fig tree varieties on this list, ranking in at only 4 to 8 feet tall on average.

Fruit Characteristics: Large round figs with a long neck, bright yellow skin, and light amber colored flesh. With it’s very thin skin and luscious honey flavor, Yellow Long Neck is considered to be one of the finest figs for fresh eating by fig connoisseurs. 

Breba or Main Crop: Both breba and main, offering two crops per year

Other Unique Facts: Yellow Long Neck figs can grow nearly as large as a tennis ball in size! This fig variety was first discovered at the San Diego Botanic Gardens. Fruits best when it receives at least 8 hours of sun.


A large yellow fig that is hanging from a branch is being cupped by a hand from behind, revealing its large size that resembles a small tennis ball.
Yellow Long Neck figs from Urban Tropicals


17) Olympian


Zones: 6-10

Cold-Hardy to: Down to 5°F ; an extra-hardy fig tree variety for both cold and coastal climates. Once established, the rootstock can survive down to zero degrees, though the above-ground growth will die back. It will re-grow in the spring and bear fruit the following summer.

Growth Habits: Compact size and shape, reaching 6 to 10 feet

Fruit Characteristics: Striped green and purple skin with red to violet flesh. Very large fruit, thin skin, and exceptionally sweet flavor.

Breba or Main Crop: Two good crops per year. The breba crop is known to be especially cold-hardy and withstand temperatures in the teens, providing a late spring harvest. Main crop harvest in late summer to fall. 

Other Unique Facts: The Olympian fig variety was first discovered in Olympia Washington by a retired biologist Denny McGaughy. 


Buy Olympian fig trees online here


A large bronze to purple fruit is attached to a branch with leaves surrounding the fruit. Choose fig varieties such as this for those in cooler weather.
Olympian fig from LeBeau Bamboo Nursery


18) Ronde de Bordeaux


Zones: 6-10

Cold-Hardy to: Rootstock hardy down to 5°F , winter protection recommended for zones 6-7

Growth Habits: 8 to 15 feet, usually grows in a bushy shape with long finger-like leaves.

Fruit Characteristics: Small to medium fruit size with dark purple skin and bright reddish pink flesh. Rich sweet flavor with notes of grape, strawberry, molasses, or syrup.

Breba or Main Crop: Produces an earlier main crop than most fig varieties. The breba crop is not noteworthy.

Other Unique Facts: This fig variety is similar to the more well-known Violette de Bordeaux, but bears slightly smaller and lighter-colored fruit. “Ronde” means round in French, as the fruit is exceptionally spherical and plump. Highly sought-after fig variety and reliable producer for cool-climate gardeners.


Medium sized dark purple fruit sit atop a leaf, one of the fruits is cut in half lengthwise, revealing the light strawberry colored pulp.
Ronde de Bordeaux figs courtesy of Galgoni


And that concludes this exploration of 18 fantastic fig varieties to grow.


Now that we’re all officially craving sweet and juicy fresh figs… I hope you discovered a few new fig varieties, and feel excited to expand your fig tree collection at home! Or, did I miss any of your favorite fig varieties? Please drop a comment and let us know below! Also feel free to Pin or share this article if you found it valuable. Don’t forget to check out the accompanying fig grow guide for more tips. We appreciate you tuning in!


Keen on growing figs? You may dig these too:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

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How to Grow Fig Trees: Varieties, Planting, Care & Harvesting https://homesteadandchill.com/how-to-grow-fig-trees/ https://homesteadandchill.com/how-to-grow-fig-trees/#comments Thu, 12 Aug 2021 19:32:02 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2034961 Figs are delicious, easy to grow, beautiful, and fit in any size garden! Come learn how to grow fig trees - with tips on choosing fig varieties and how to plant, prune, fertilize, and harvest figs.

The post How to Grow Fig Trees: Varieties, Planting, Care & Harvesting appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

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Few things in life are more delicious than a sweet, ripe, juicy fig straight from the tree. It’s a shame that few people get to experience this delicacy! Fresh figs bruise easily and have a short shelf life, making them rare in grocery stores. Dry figs are cool and all, but are definitely not the same. Thankfully, fig trees are quite easy to grow at home! They are low maintenance, attract few pests, and can grow as compact trees – perfect for gardens of all shapes and sizes. In addition to scrumptious fruit, provide beautiful foliage for your landscape. 

In this fig grow guide, you’ll find all the information you need to successfully grow fig trees, including: tips to choose the best fig variety for your garden, planting instructions, how to prune, fertilize, and harvest figs and more! I’ve even included a long list of ways to prepare and eat figs at the end. Truth be told, fig trees are among my top favorites to grow. So much so, we had 5 fig trees in our old garden, and were the first trees we are adding to the new homestead!



Fig Tree Growing Requirements, at a glance:


  • Growing Zones: Fig trees grow best in USDA hardiness zones 7 or 8-12, though some extra-hardy varieties like ‘Chicago Hardy’ can survive in zone 6. Lower zone gardeners can grow cold-hardy figs in containers and move them to a protected location over winter, such as a garage, shed, basement, or even indoors. Most established fig trees can survive temperatures down to 15 to 20 degrees F.
  • Size & Structure: Fig trees grow 10 to 30 feet tall and up to 20 feet wide, depending on variety and pruning. Fig trees are deciduous, meaning they naturally lose their leaves in the winter and grow fresh ones each spring.
  • Sun: Full sun to partial shade. Like most fruit trees, fig trees can tolerate some shade but will fruit more prolifically when provided at least 7 hours of direct sun.
  • Soil: Grow fig trees in well-draining soil amended with ample organic matter (i.e. compost). They will also tolerate moderately clay soils, but not a lot of standing water. Figs are said to prefer slightly acidic soil conditions (pH of 5.5 to 6.5) though we never adjust our fig soil pH; they aren’t very picky.
  • Water: Moderate water. Most varieties are drought-tolerant once established, though they will produce better quality fruit with continued moderate water.
  • Fruiting Season: Depends on variety; often late summer. If planting several fig trees, choose a combination of early, mid, and late-season bearing trees. That way you’ll be flush with fruit over a longer season – and not overwhelmed with too many at once!


An image taken towards the sky underneath the canopy of a Desert King fig tree. The main branches are free of leaves aside from the ends where the new growth has taken place.


Getting Started: Seeds, Nursery Trees, or Cuttings 


The best and most reliable way to grow fig trees is from cuttings that are taken from a female, fruit-bearing tree. While it’s technically “possible” to grow fig trees from seed, the resulting tree may not be female, breed true to the parent tree, or reliably bear decent fruit. Young fig trees you’ll find at the garden center were propagated from cuttings and/or grafted rootstock

We prefer to get a jump start and purchase decent-size trees from the local nursery in 5 gallon pots since fig trees can already take several years to bear fruit. However, you can also propagate your own cuttings from a friend’s tree and grow your own fig tree that way too. 


Two young fig trees standing side by side in 5 gallon nursery pots. The one on the left is slightly taller and has been pruned into a "Y" or vase shape, the one on the right is in the shape of a whip. Grow fig trees in various ways to suite your needs.
The first two fig trees we’re planting at the new homestead: a Corky’s Honey delight (right, one of our go-to green-skinned favorites) along with an Excel fig (left), a new-to-us variety that is also green-skinned and apparently resists splitting when ripe. Note the difference in the two tree shapes. We’ll talk more about that in the pruning section below!


What kind of fig tree should I get?


Black Mission and Brown Turkey are two very well-known types of figs, but there are dozens of interesting and delicious varieties to choose from! It’s important to select a fig tree variety that is well-suited for your climate, space, and taste buds. Read descriptions before making a purchase. I always suggest checking locally-owned nurseries first; they should carry varieties that grow well in your area. I’m working on writing up a detailed list of 18 different fig varieties (available now here!) In the meantime, let’s take a deeper look at how to best choose…


Climate


Most fig tree varieties grow best outdoors in hardiness zones 8 through 11 where summers are long and hot and winters are mild. However, some fig tree varieties can survive in much colder climates too! For instance, the ‘Chicago Hardy’ fig grows in zone 6. Many others are adapted down to zone 7, especially when planted in a protected location. Celeste and Brown Turkey are two other popular fig varieties well-suited for cold climates.

Here on the Central Coast of California, we seek out figs that thrive in more temperate conditions (such as Desert King or Corky’s Honey Delight) since we have moderately cool, foggy summers. Fig varieties that prefer high heat won’t be as sweet and fruitful here, such as Violette de Bordeaux or Kadota – both of which I’ve heard great things about!


Fig Tree Size


In addition to climate, consider the size of the tree. Some fig trees are available as dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties that will reach a maximum height of 10 to 15 feet, perfect for smaller gardens, tidy orchards, or containers. We’ve grown many semi-dwarf varieties that are still less than 6 feet tall, many years after planting. Other fig trees grow quite large, reaching up to 30 feet tall. Fig trees are bushy in nature and can grow a canopy as wide as the tree is tall. However, figs are easy to train and tame – so you can always keep a larger variety pruned to stay on the smaller side. Maintaining shorter fig trees also makes harvesting fruit much easier.


A fig tree growing in the border of a garden under the canopy of an avocado tree. Nasturtium is growing around the base of the fig tree, covering its lower trunk from view. Grow fig trees and keep them pruned to take up less space.
One of our several ‘Corky’s Honey Delight’ semi-dwarf fig trees. The tree is already about 5 years old here, staying quite compact, and bears ample large juicy fruit come summertime.


Fruit Characteristics


Now, let’s talk about the fruit itself!  I’ve never crossed a fresh fig that I didn’t like, but some fig tree varieties bear sweeter, larger, or more unique fruit than others. Eye-catching striped ‘Penache Tiger’ figs, massive tennis ball-like ‘Yellow Longneck’ figs, extra-sweet ‘Honey’ varieties… the list goes on! 

We personally love to grow green-skinned figs, also referred to as “white figs”. Green or white fig varieties stay green even once they’re fully ripe, turning only lighter green or yellow-green. Because of this, wild birds don’t tend to eat them! Unlike other figs that send a visual cue (hey look at me, I’m sweet!) by turning dark purple, red, or black as they ripen.


A wood bowl is being held sideways to show the many large ripe green figs that are being held within. One of the figs has been sliced in half to reveal the juicy, purple flesh within. Four chickens are in the background, looking in from a gate.
A bowl of ripe Desert King and Honey Delight figs, both green-skinned figs.


Do figs need a cross-pollinator (do you need 2 fig trees to produce fruit)?


No! Fig trees are self-fertile, meaning they do not require another fig tree nearby for cross-pollination in order to bear fruit. This is just one more reason why figs are such a great choice for home gardens! Though if you have the space, I bet you’ll want more than just one.


What are Breba Figs? 


Breba figs are those that grow on last year’s wood growth, as opposed to the ‘main crop’ that grows from the current year’s new branch growth. Some fig varieties produce an exceptionally large and delicious breba crop, such as Desert King. Others are known for their main crop. Most figs produce some of both, so you could get a couple crops of figs per season! Overwintering as buds on the tree, breba figs develop and ripen earlier than the main crop, typically in late spring to early summer rather than late summer to fall. If you find your tree tends to produce a weak (or not tasty) breba crop, you can remove those fruits early so the tree can focus it’s energy on the main crop instead.


Two large green figs are hanging from a branch as they ripen. Many smaller figs are growing from various spots throughout its branches of new growth. Below lies the foliage of a bougainvillea plant that has maroon/pink flowers. Grow fig trees for tasty fruit.
The largest figs in this photo are breba figs. As you can see, they’re growing on the brown portion of the branch (older wood from last year). The smaller figs that are growing on this year’s new green growth will continue to grow and ripen a few months later.


Planting a Fig Tree


To plant a fig tree, follow general tree-planting best practices:

  • Choose a planting location that receives full sun and good drainage. In zones 8 and lower, consider a spot that offers some added protection in the winter such as near a fence or house.

  • Space fig trees anywhere from 6 to 15 feet from other trees, depending on the variety, landscape, and planned intensity of pruning.

  • Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the existing root ball or pot, up to 2 to 3 times wider but not much deeper.

  • Plant the tree so the top of the root ball and base of the trunk are level with the surrounding ground surface. Do not bury the trunk.

  • It’s okay to amend the planting hole with quality potting soil, worm castings, and/or well-aged compost, but otherwise do not fertilize at the time of planting. 

  • Optional: sprinkle granular mycorrhizae on the root ball, or water with a soluble mycorrhizae after planting. Mycorrhizae helps reduce transplant shock, encourage strong root development, deter root knot nematodes and other pests, and boost overall tree health. 

  • Water the tree thoroughly after planting. 

  • Add a layer of mulch on top, but leaving a clear mulch-free ring several inches around the trunk. 


Do you have gophers in your yard? If yes, I highly suggest planting your fig tree in a gopher cage to protect it from damage. Trust me. We learned the hard way that gophers find fig trees absolutely irresistible. They will chew and eat the roots as well as around the base of the trunk. You can either buy large pre-made gopher baskets, or make your own like we do! Learn more about making and installing gopher baskets for trees here.


A four way image collage of planting a fig tree, the first image shows a young fig tree in a 5 gallon nursery pot sitting inside of a homemade gopher basket, the second image shows the gopher basket sitting inside a hole in the ground with the fig tree sitting next to it, the third image shows the fig tree sitting inside of the hole and gopher basket, the fourth image shows the tree after is has been buried with native soil, compost, and potting soil. If you have gophers, grow fig trees and plant them in a gopher basket to protect their roots from damage.
Planting the new Corky’s Honey Delight fig tree after it was pruned/topped (explained more below). We end up digging deep holes in order to accommodate our homemade gopher baskets, so once the basket is placed in the hole we backfill the bottom with fresh soil and compost mixed with the native soil – so that the top of the fig root ball will be level with the surrounding ground surface. See more detailed step-by-step instructions for planting trees here (video included).



Can I grow a fig tree in a container?


Absolutely! We kept several of our fig trees in half wine barrel planters for many years, though we did eventually plant them in-ground. Growing figs in containers is an especially desirable option for cold-climate gardeners (zone 6 and lower) that will need to move their fig trees to a protected location for winter. Potted fig trees should be brought outside to soak up the sun during the warm months, or at least placed near a large sunny window if not.

Bear in mind that the size of the pot will directly limit the growth and production of trees (e.g. smaller pot = smaller tree). A dwarf or semi-dwarf fig tree variety will do best in a pot. Containerized figs will need to be fertilized more often; see fertilizing notes below. Most trees are admittedly happier in the ground than in pots. If you have the option, plant your fig tree in the ground. 


A half wine barrel with a fig tree planted inside it. The tree has various limbs shooting out of both sides with some visible fruit. Grow fig trees in the ground or in containers if necessary for your location and space.
Another one of our Honey Delight figs, happily growing in a half wine barrel.


Fertilizing Fig Trees


Fig trees are not typically heavy feeders, especially if they’re planted in decent soil from the start. Plan to fertilize in-ground fig trees only once or twice per year (spring and possibly fall) with an organic slow-release fruit tree fertilizer like this one. We simply feed our fig trees with homemade compost tea a couple times per year! Applying a water-soluble mycorrhizae in the spring can also help increase fruit production.

Fig trees growing in containers will need more frequent fertilizer than those planted in the ground, requiring up to quarterly feeding. Feed potted figs with a slow-release granular organic fertilizer by dusting it over the soil surface, lightly scratch it in, and then water thoroughly. Follow the amounts listed in the product instructions.



Pruning Fig Trees


Fig trees grow well with little pruning, though some clean-up here and there can help maintain a more tidy and compact tree. Pruning can also encourage new growth, branching, and more fruit. 

At the time of transplanting, we typically prune the top of young fig trees if they’re growing as a single vertical trunk. Topping straight “whips” young will encourage branching and a more bushy structure – perfect to easily harvest fruit. See the photos below for further instruction. Unpruned whips will eventually branch too, but not as soon or vigorously as when topped.

Thereafter, prune fig trees during the dormant season, once they’ve lost their leaves in late fall or winter. Use clean and sanitized pruning shears or loppers to remove weak, diseased, dead, or otherwise undesirable branches from the tree. Removing (or topping) vertical branches near the center of the tree will create a more open and wide canopy, and increased growth of lateral fruiting branches. Pruning back the main branches by one quarter to a third each year will promote continued branching. 

Last but not least, remove any branches that spring up from the very base of the tree by the soil. These undesirable growths are called “suckers” because they draw energy and nutrients away from the main tree. (I don’t find suckers to be very common on fig trees compared to other fruit trees like apples or stone fruit.)


A diagram showing how to prune a young tree whip. The first image shows the whip, the second shows the whip after it was pruned, and the third image is the branched tree in a vase form after it shoots off new growth after being pruned.

Diagram courtesy of Deep Green Permaculture
A four way image collage, the first image shows the top of a young fig tree whip with pruners positioned above a node, the second image shows a close up of the pruners placed just above one of the nodes, the third image shows the top after it has been pruned, and the fourth image shows the newly pruned young whip next to another young tree in the same sized pot that illustrates a "Y" shape growth pattern. Grow fig trees in various shapes to suite your needs.
Of our two newest fig trees, the Excel already had a nice branched top. Yet the Corky’s Honey Delight was growing as a single vertical sapling with no branches – also called a “whip”. To encourage branching, we topped the whip by pruning off the top 1/3 to half of the tree. Using clean pruning shears (sanitized with rubbing alcohol) I cut just above a leaf node.
A close up image of the top of a young fig tree that has been pruned into a "Y" shape by cutting the main stem above a node. Grow fig trees in various shapes to fit your needs and yard space.
A closer look at the new Excel fig, which was already branching when we bought it. You can see where it was previously topped in the same manner we just did to the Corky’s above.


Caring for Fig Trees in Winter 


If you grow fig trees in a climate where temperatures dip below 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time, plan to protect your tree during winter. Potted fig trees should be brought inside or into a garage, shed, or other place that is sheltered from freezing conditions. In-ground trees can be protected with frost cloth or burlap if needed. A good deep layer of mulch around the base of the tree will help to insulate the soil and roots to reduce hard frost damage. 


Fig Tree Pests or Disease


Thankfully, few pests or diseases bother fig trees. The most common fig tree pests we contend with are gophers (who eat the roots) and birds (who eat the fruit). Planting your fig tree in a gopher basket will protect them from gnawing gopher damage. As previously discussed, green or white-skin fig varieties are far less attractive to birds in our experience! 

Another solution to stop birds (or squirrels) from eating your figs is to place reusable mesh bags like these over each fig as it becomes ripe. While tedious, it’s effective! I don’t love draping traditional bird netting over fruit trees since birds and other wildlife often become entangled in it. A finer mesh insect netting could be used instead with less risk. 

Other potential fig tree pests or disease include thrips, root knot nematodes, rust, and leaf spot. 


DeannaCat, clad in a bikini top with short workout type shorts and brown sunglasses is holding a fig tree that has had all but a few roots chewed off as well as a good portion of the trunk chewed down. The bottom of the tree resembles a field hockey stick although all of its leaves still remain intact. A homemade gopher basket would have helped this tree thrive instead of forcing it to be moved. The background contains portions of a couple garden beds with tomatoes and kale growing amongst them. There are various other green plants amongst the image with large trellises along the back fence line that are  naked aside from a small vine centered in the middle of each. If you grow fig trees, use a gopher cage if they are present in your area.
Gopher damage. This poor Black Mission fig tree has no roots left! I was surprised it was still alive at all. The leaves started to yellow and droop, which was our first indicator something was wrong. Upon closer investigation I spotted the chew marks around the trunk just below the soil line, and then it pulled right up out of the ground! We replanted it in a gopher basket and it survived.


Do figs really have wasps inside?


Yes and no. Have you heard that there is a dead wasp inside every fig? That “fact” can creep some folks out, but don’t let it deter you from enjoying or growing fig trees – because it’s not nearly as gnarly (or true) as it sounds! 

Many fig tree varieties (but not all) are pollinated by small beneficial wasps, which crawl inside and eventually die within the fruit. Yet the relationship is mutualistic; it benefits both parties! The wasps are providing an essential service for the fig trees: pollination. In return, the fig fruit offers a safe haven for the wasps to reproduce. Even then, the figs release specialized enzymes that dissolves the wasp inside. You would not notice anything unusual when eating the fruit. The crunchy bits are fig seeds – not wasp parts or eggs!


Two ripening green figs hanging from a branch. One of the figs has a sugary sap substance hanging from the bottom of it, revealing the sugary sweetness within. Beyond, the sun is filtering in between the figs and surrounding leaves.
A prime example of a very ripe fig with a “juicy booty”, dripping honey-like fig juice.


Harvesting Figs


How long does it take for a fig tree to bear fruit?


Fig trees typically take about 3 to 5 years to start producing quality fruit. During the first few years, don’t be dismayed if your crop is dismal. Young fig trees may develop small, dry fruit on their branches for a couple years before their production really picks up. Every year will be better than the last! Eventually, if your tree is producing a huge amount of figs, you can thin (remove) some of the smaller fruit to encourage larger, juicier figs if needed. Insufficient water and/or nutrients can lead to less than ideal fruit production.


How do I harvest figs from the tree?


Ah, the fun part has arrived! To harvest figs, gently pull up on the fruit so that it detaches from the branch at the very tip of the stem. Don’t pull down, and avoid tearing or squishing the fruit. If harvested early, under-ripe figs will not continue to ripen on the counter as other fruit might. Therefore, it’s best to harvest figs when they’re fully ripe (or darn close to it) if possible.

After harvesting figs, keep in mind that they have a very short shelf life. They can be stored at room temperature for a day or two, but otherwise figs should be refrigerated. Store very soft or overripe fruit in the refrigerator right away.


How do you know when figs are ready to harvest?


There are a few telltale signs that figs are ripe and ready for harvest:

  1. They will become increasingly large in size
  2. A ripe fig will change color from dark green to whatever color is expected for that particular variety, such as dark purple, yellow-green, or reddish brown.
  3. Ripe figs become increasingly thin-skinned, soft and droop on the branch. One way to tell if a fig is ready to harvest is to gently squeeze the fruit to check for softness. Harvest them when they’re supple to the touch but before they get mushy. 
  4. Finally, a very ripe fig may split or drip honey-like juices from the bottom end. (Or get a “juicy booty” as I like to call it.)

Figs will also pull off easier from the stem when ripe. Of course, the ultimate test to know if a fig is ripe is to get in there and take a bite – revealing the unique, sweet, slightly gooey (but in a good way!) jam-like inner flesh.


DeannaCat's hand is a set of three figs that are hanging from a branch. They are starting to droop which occurs when they ripen. Grow fig trees if you want delicious fruit.
Very ripe Desert King figs. They’ve turned lighter yellow-green in color, are large and droopy, and even becomingly slightly wrinkled.
DeannaCat is holding a green fig showing the blossom end of the fruit that is slightly splitting open from the bottom. This can occur when the fruit becomes large and ripe.
Eat figs that have split first. They won’t hold up as well in storage.
DeannaCat is holding a large fig that has been cut i half, revealing the purple/pink gooey flesh within. Grow fig trees to have an ample supply of ripe and juicy figs.
Oh yeah baby.

What do fresh figs taste like?


Fresh figs have a unique sweet flavor – like a spectacular blend of honey, fruit syrup, and ripe berries. I just read this question out loud and Aaron replied “like a party in your mouth”! Lol. Figs are one of our favorite fruits to grow for a reason. If you’ve never had a fig right from the tree, you’re in for a real treat once you grow you own!


Ways to Eat or Preserve Fresh Figs


90% of the time, we simply enjoy our figs fresh – eating them whole like a pear or plum. We also like to cut them up to serve in breakfast with plain yogurt, nuts, seeds, and granola. Figs are amazing on top of sourdough pancakes, or over vanilla coconut ice cream. 

Tree-ripened figs are plenty sweet on their own. They don’t require additional sugar or a drizzle of honey as I see many folks do. However, if you’re looking for an extra-special treat, or if you have more fresh figs than you can eat plain, please enjoy these tantalizing ways to eat figs:


  • Oven-roasted figs with cheese, honey, nuts, and/or aged balsamic vinegar. Cut the figs in half, stuff or top them with a tangy rich cheese (such as goat cheese or blue cheese), drizzle with honey or thick sweet balsamic vinegar, sprinkle walnut or pecan pieces on top. Roast in the oven on 375°F until slightly softened, warm and juicy. Balsamic-honey marinated figs are also excellent grilled!
  • Serve as a fresh fig bruschetta. Top crackers or crusty bread with a soft spreadable cheese like ricotta, mascarpone, or goat cheese. Then add chopped figs, chopped pecans, a drizzle of honey or reduced balsamic vinegar, and a sprinkle of fresh herbs like thyme or rosemary.
  • Use fresh figs as a topping on salads, pizza, or even sourdough focaccia. In addition to tangy cheese, herbs, and balsamic, figs pair exceptionally well with caramelized onions. 
  • Turn your harvest into fig jam or fig compote.  
  • Dehydrate into homegrown dried figs. I can’t recommend our favorite Excalibur food dehydrators highly enough!
  • Make chocolate-covered figs. Dip fresh figs in melted chocolate and then pop them into the refrigerator to harden. 
  • Freeze figs to enjoy later on desserts, in smoothies, transform into spreads, and more
  • Use fresh figs as the filling for a sweet baked cobbler, crumble, tart, galette, or pie. 
  • Make homemade fig newtons or fig bars. Try these vegan gluten-free oatmeal fig bars!


A white ceramic bowl which has ingredients spaced throughout the bottom like a pie cut into eight slices. There are hemp seeds, pumpkin seeds, granola, almonds, passionfruit pulp, strawberries, and cut figs rounding out the breakfast bowl.
Plain yogurt topped with homegrown figs, strawberries passionfruit, and a mix of almonds, pumpkin seeds, hemp hears, and granola. A divine breakfast indeed.

And that sums up how to grow fig trees!


If all that doesn’t get you excited to grow figs, I don’t know what will! Even more, I hope this article helps you feel prepared and confident to plant, grow, care for, harvest, and enjoy homegrown figs. Please let me know if you have any lingering questions in the comments below. Do you grow fig trees too? I’d love to hear what your favorite varieties are and why! Last but not least, please feel free to pin or share this article if you found the information you learned to be useful. Thank you so much for tuning in. Enjoy those figs!


You may also like these grow guides:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

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How to Make a Homemade Gopher Basket for Trees https://homesteadandchill.com/homemade-gopher-basket-trees/ https://homesteadandchill.com/homemade-gopher-basket-trees/#comments Fri, 02 Apr 2021 00:17:26 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2030900 Are pesky gophers chewing on your trees? Come learn how to make a homemade gopher basket to protect trees from gopher damage. Our DIY hardware cloth gopher baskets are large, effective, affordable, durable, and easy to make! Tips for planting trees included.

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Planting trees is one of the most rewarding and earth-friendly things you can do in your landscape. Trees offer beauty, shade, habitat for wildlife, sequester carbon, and depending on the type, may feed you as well! We’ve planted dozens of fruit trees in our garden. But you know who else loves trees just as much as we do? Gophers! Those frustrating little creatures LOVE to eat tree roots. Thankfully, it isn’t difficult to stop gophers from destroying trees. We simply have to plant trees in wire gopher baskets – and those are easy to make!

Follow along and learn how to make a homemade gopher basket to protect trees from gopher damage, along with tips on how to install the basket and plant a tree inside. The cages we make from hardware cloth are large, inexpensive, and durable. (To be honest, they’re far better than anything you could buy!) You can follow the same steps to create more petite baskets for shrubs or smaller plants too. To make things even easier, I’ve included a demonstration video at the end of this article. But first, let’s go over a few frequently asked questions about gophers and using gopher baskets.



What is a gopher basket?


A gopher basket is a protective wire mesh enclosure designed to prevent burrowing pests from accessing and eating plant roots. Also known as a gopher cage, these physical barriers offer protection against voles and moles as well. Gopher baskets can be used when planting new trees, vines, shrubs, or other susceptible plants. The basket or cage is buried in the soil with the plant’s root ball tucked safely inside, surrounded on the bottom and all sides. 

Gardeners can either make a homemade gopher basket, or purchase pre-made gopher baskets – which come in a variety of sizes for shrubs and smaller plants, or larger options for trees. While it takes some added effort, it’s more cost-effective to make your own. A single roll of wire hardware cloth costs about the same as one large pre-made gopher cage, but is enough material to create dozens of them! Plus, we use handy hardware cloth for all sorts of homestead projects – including to block gophers from under raised garden beds and predator-proof our chicken coop.


A birds eye view of the surrounding area around a fig tree that has been planted in a homemade gopher basket. Three separate captions have been superimposed on the image. The bottom left corner has a caption that reads "fig tree safe in basket", directly to the right middle lies the caption "gopher mound", and directly above that to the top of the image lies the caption "gopher hole". Surrounding the tree in its cage amongst the gopher activity also lies nasturtium with reddish pink flowers, irrigation tubing, a solar powered garden light, as well as the bottom leaves from an avocado tree.
A fig tree in our garden with gopher activity all around it.


What types of tree roots do gophers eat?


Gophers are herbivores and survive by eating vegetation. As subterranean dwellers, they primarily dine on the roots of herbaceous plants, including most common garden crops, trees, shrubs, flowers, and vines. Gophers will eat a wide variety of tree roots, but are particularly fond of fruit tree roots and the extra-tender roots of young trees. In our coastal California garden, our fig trees are especially irresistible to gophers! We’ve found that they’re not quite as drawn to citrus tree roots, though gophers will eat just about any type of fruit tree roots when food is scarce.  


How Gophers Damage Trees


True to form as part of the Rodentia animal order, gophers have sharp, long, rat-like front teeth. They’re perfectly adapted for cutting and chewing on tough vegetation, or even to strip bark! Gophers eat tree roots and will also gnaw at the base of tree trunks (also known as the crown of the tree). Depending on the age of the tree and the extent of chewing done, gopher damage can range from a minor irritation to lethal. So yes: gophers can absolutely kill trees, shrubs, vines, and more. Especially if the feast is left unchecked! 

Large, established plants and those with extensive fibrous root systems may suffer only minimal damage (e.g. minor stunting) – particularly if the gophers nibble on a small percentage of the most exterior roots. However, if gophers manage to eat a significant portion of the roots, the tree or plant will most certainly suffer. This leaves young trees with small root systems especially vulnerable. As an added bummer, gophers are most active during the spring and fall – the best time to plant new trees!


A close up image of a gopher, partially emerging from its subterranean dwelling. It's front top and bottom teeth resemble that of a beaver.
“I want to eat your trees.”


Signs of Gopher Damage on Trees 


Gophers leave tell-tale dirt mounds around their shallow burrows and tunnel systems. So, if you see signs of gopher activity around your trees or yard, be on alert! Trees that are under attack by gophers may exhibit yellowing leaves, unseasonal leaf drop, or wilting. Less obvious symptoms include reduced vigor, especially for mature trees and plants. You may sometimes see chewing marks around the base of the tree trunk just above the soil. Or, if you gently dig down a few inches below the soil to reveal missing bark or evidence of gnawing, there is likely a gopher at work. 


DeannaCat, clad in a bikini top with short workout type shorts and brown sunglasses is holding a fig tree that has had all but a few roots chewed off as well as a good portion of the trunk chewed down. The bottom of the tree resembles a field hockey stick although all of its leaves still remain intact. A homemade gopher basket would have helped this tree thrive instead of forcing it to be moved. The background contains portions of a couple garden beds with tomatoes and kale growing amongst them. There are various other green plants amongst the image with large trellises along the back fence line that are  naked aside from a small vine centered in the middle of each.
Excuse my attire (it was hot out, I was young… lol) When I went to explore below the soil for this yellowing, slightly wilted fig tree, imagine my surprise to find no roots at all! You can also see extensive chew marks on the trunk that was just below the soil line. We replanted this fig tree in a basket and surprisingly it survived, though it’s never been as happy as our others.


Do I need to use a gopher basket for my tree?


If gophers are prevalent in your yard, I highly recommend using gopher baskets for trees – especially when planting small fruit trees. If there’s only a mild gopher issue in your garden, you could experiment and skip using a basket if you’d like. See what happens! While it’s a bummer to potentially lose a tree in the process, you should be able to dig it up and salvage it (and add a basket) if issues arise. Plus, there are other ways to control gophers too. I will write an article all about that subject soon, but know that physical barriers (i.e. cages) are always our preferred method since we avoid using poisons on our homestead.

After a couple of years of trial and error, we’ve come to accept that we need to use gopher baskets on most trees to keep them safe. We use them for new fruit trees that come in 5 to 15 gallon pots, including apples, loquats, persimmon, avocado, guava, figs, and more. However, we have opted to NOT use gopher cages for larger, hardier trees – like when we planted our California pepper tree. 

The pepper tree came in a huge 36” wood nursery box, and we planted it in an area where we hadn’t witnessed much gopher activity. We also knew: a) it would grow large quickly, and b) pepper trees aren’t a known gopher favorite. We took a risk and it has grown in beautifully, with no signs of gophers. By not using a gopher basket, we also avoided constricting its growth at all. Since we planted that particular tree as a privacy screen, unbridled growth was a priority! Which leads us to another common question about gopher baskets: root binding.


DeannaCat is standing next to a loquat tree in a 15 gallon nursery pot, it stands almost twice her size. The surrounding area contains paver lined gravel pathways amongst pollinator islands that contain perennials, annuals, aloe vera, and agave. The flower colors range from yellow to purple and pink, all contrasting against the various shades of green. The house in the background is blue green in color with a tall pepper tree next to it.
Let’s plant this loquat tree in a gopher basket together! (The pepper tree I mentioned above is in the background)


Do gopher baskets cause root binding or restrict tree growth?


Root binding is when plant roots wind tightly around themselves in a limited or confined space, such as a too-small pot. This can cause stress or stunted growth in many plants. Gopher baskets may or may not restrict growth or lead to root binding, depending on the type of tree, basket size, and wire material they’re made of. 

Some types of wire gopher cages eventually break down (or break open) as the tree matures over time, including gopher baskets made from chicken wire, or certain pre-made baskets that are designed to slowly degrade. This allows the tree roots to escape, but also leaves the tree potentially vulnerable to pests in the future. The good news is that large mature trees are typically more resilient and less attractive to gophers, so they may not need the added protection of a gopher basket later in life. 

Other gopher baskets are constructed of far more durable wire material like galvanized hardware cloth – which is what we use to make all of our homemade gopher baskets! Hardware cloth gopher baskets should not corrode, rust, or otherwise degrade. With that, some modest root-binding will occur over time. Small feeder roots will grow through the holes, but the vast majority of roots will be confined to (and protected in) the basket. To help combat stunting, we create extra-large gopher baskets that provide plenty of room to grow. 

Note that it isn’t necessarily a bad thing to slightly constrict the growth of a tree! Especially if you live in an urban or suburban setting that doesn’t easily accommodate massive trees. Personally, we gladly accept the trade-off of potentially smaller trees than those destroyed by gophers. We also grow many dwarf or semi-dwarf tree varieties that take more kindly to small spaces anyways. Finally, a tree planted in the ground within a gopher basket will be happier than those in a pot – and tons of gardeners successfully grow trees in large pots and containers!

So, keeping all that in mind, let’s learn how to make a homemade gopher basket.


A two way image collage of the loquat tree after it has been planted in the yard. The first image shows the tree after it has been planted inside a homemade gopher cage. There is a fig tree, avocado tree, pineapple guava, and a magnolia tree around it. The background is a fence with the tree just barely poking over the top of the fence line. The second image shows the tree a couple years after it has been planted. The tree now extends another four feet above the fence line and its trunk has grown quite large in thickness. The surrounding trees have all filled in nicely as well, nasturtium with pink flowers grow amongst the floor of the trees.
Here is the loquat tree right after we planted it in December 2018 (left) versus March 2021 (right). In just over 2 years, it has grown PLENTY, despite being enclosed in a gopher basket. It’s now several feel taller than the fence, and check out how thick the trunk has grown too!


How to Make a Homemade Gopher Basket


Materials Needed:


  • Wire mesh material of choice. Use galvanized hardware cloth with ¼” or ½” openings for durable, long-lasting protection. Gophers can fit through holes as small as one inch, potentially even ¾”. A two or three-foot tall roll of wire works perfectly. Stainless steel is another great option, though not as affordable. If you want the cage to break down as the tree matures (as discussed above) you can use chicken wire, though it isn’t recommended for areas with persistent and abundant gophers. Rumor has it that gophers may be able to chew through chicken wire. Also note that voles are smaller than gophers and can fit through the holes in chicken wire.
  • Galvanized wire (16 to 20 gauge) and/or heavy-duty zip ties for securing the basket together 
  • Wire snips or aviation snips 
  • Work gloves – hardware cloth can be sharp and pokey to work with!



Instructions:


Create a wire cylinder


  1. Start by taking note of the tree pot size. The finished homemade gopher basket should be several inches larger than the tree root ball in all directions, about double the pot size. (Or more, if you’re starting with a petite 5 gallon tree pot). For trees, our average homemade gopher basket ends up being about 24 to 30” wide and just under 2 feet deep. Scale down as needed for smaller plants. The finished homemade gopher basket should stick up a few inches above the soil line for maximum protection.

  2. Use metal snips to cut the wire mesh into a cylinder of the desired size. Tip: I wrap the wire wide around the tree pot to get a good visual before I cut. Cut it a little larger than the final cage will be. Allow for a few inches of overlap where the two ends will meet.  

  3. Because it can be difficult to dig a planting hole that has totally straight sides, overlap the ends of the cut wire in a manner that makes the basket wider at the top and a few inches more narrow at the bottom. That way, the basket will fit nicely in your planting hole.

  4. Secure the wire cylinder together using cut pieces of galvanized wire. Twist the wire “ties” so they won’t come undone. You could also use strong zip ties but they could eventually break, so I recommend adding at least a few pieces of wire too. If you don’t have extra wire on hand, see how I used the “pokey ends” of the hardware cloth to secure it to itself in a few places in the photo below.


Hardware cloth fashioned into a cylinder shape is shown sitting on the ground next to various plants, metal snips, a bundle of zip ties, and the remainder of the roll of hardware cloth. The hardware cloth cylinder has zip ties that keep the two ends closed together and the bottom of the cylinder has been crimped slightly so there is about three inches of overlap with a small circular opening with no hardware cloth.
A two way image collage, the first image shows the ends of the hardware cloth cylinder fashioned together with zip ties from the top to the bottom about every 8 inches. The second image shows how the end of the hardware cloth can be bent to wrap around the other end of the cylinder (as the zip ties do) to make the homemade gopher basket even more sturdy.
Note how the hardware cloth is overlapped more at the bottom of the cage, making the opening wider at the top and more narrow at the bottom. I didn’t have a roll of wire handy when we made this particular basket, so I secured it with zip ties AND tucked a few loops of the hardware cloth around itself.
The hardware cloth cylinder is sitting next to a loquat tree in a 15 gallon nursery pot on a gravel pathway with pavers. Beyond lies various perennial plants with yellow, purple, and pink flowers with a fence constructed with horizontal fence boards as the back drop.


Add or form a bottom


  1. If you’re working with 3-foot tall hardware cloth, bend and fold the bottom 12” to 16” towards the center of the basket. This will leave you with a basket just under 2 feet tall. I find it easiest to fold a 4-6” wide section over at a time, moving around the rim of the basket to repeat the process until it has several folds that overlap and completely cover the bottom. Pinch the folds together to make everything nice and tight. 

    If you started with 2-foot tall hardware cloth, follow the same process but only fold over about 3 or 4 inches of the bottom towards the center. Then, cut another piece of hardware cloth to cover the open hole that is left on the bottom. A square piece will do the trick, but you can get fancy and cut a circle if you prefer. Again, make this piece larger than needed so there will be overlap. Coming in from the top of the basket, push that piece down inside the basket to cover the open bottom. As it gets stuffed inside, the hardware cloth catches itself and locks in place nicely.

  2. Now pinch the bottom folds together, and make sure everything is nice and tight with no large gaps. I’ve found the best method is to GET IN! I stand inside the basket and use my weight and feet to push and squish everything into place. Then add a few zip ties or wire to hold the bottom together. Focus on areas that seem prone to gapping. 


A two way image collage of the inside of a homemade gopher basket. The first image shows the inside of the gopher basket before the bottom piece is affixed to close the opening at the bottom. The second image shows the inside of the basket after the bottom piece has been tied to the rest of the basket.
It’s kind of hard to see, but I added a square piece inside the bottom to cover the hole (and then climbed inside to press it flat and into the sides).
DeannaCat's feet are visible next to the homemade gopher basket which has been turned upside down to illustrate how the zip ties were used to tie the bottom middle piece to the body of the basket.
Done! Ready for planting.


How to Plant a Tree in a Gopher Basket


  • Dig a hole two to three times wider than the tree pot and root ball, and deep enough to fit the gopher basket
  • Add your homemade gopher basket to the planting hole.
  • Check the height. Remember, the goal is for the basket to extend a few inches above grade. Adjust the planting hole if needed.
  • While pressing down, shimmy the gopher basket back and forth to get it settled in the bottom of the hole. Try to get it to sit as level as possible.
  • Set the potted tree inside the basket. Note the depth compared to the surrounding soil level. Then, take the tree back out and add enough soil to the bottom of the basket so that once the tree is inside, the crown (base of the trunk) will be elevated to just above ground level. (Do not bury the trunk of the tree).
  • Carefully remove the tree from its pot and place the root ball centered in the gopher basket.
  • Backfill soil around the tree, taking care to keep it standing straight.
  • If your homemade gopher basket is extra-tall, you can bend it inward slightly to create a dome over the top of the rootball.
  • Thoroughly water the tree.
  • Add 2-4″ of organic mulch around the base of the tree, but not directly against the tree trunk. Leave a few inches of clear space around the trunk.
  • Stand back and admire your hard work!


For more detailed information on planting trees including soil, fertilizer, timing, planting location and more, please visit: “How to Plant a Tree: Best Practices for Success”


A four way image collage of planting the loquat tree in a gopher basket. The first image shows Aaron standing in a hole that has been dug for the tree, it is a sloped area so the back of the soil line is at his knees while the front of the hole soil line is around his shins. The second image shows the loquat tree and nursery pot sitting inside the homemade gopher basket inside of the hole that has been dug for the it. The third photo shows the gopher basket sitting inside the hole, the bottom has been covered with dirt as it has been worked into the hole itself, thus allowing the free soil around the area to infiltrate the bottom of the basket. The final image shows the tree after it has been planted and mulched with leaves and bark. The top of the gopher basket is still visible as it sits just above the soil line.
Planting the loquat. The height looks a little funny at first because this area is on a slope. Once it was all planted and backfilled, the gopher cage protrudes just a few inches above the soil.


Here is the video I promised! Check out minutes 2-13 to watch me sizing and making the homemade gopher basket, then installing it in the planting hole. The second half of the video is more focused on planting trees, how we amend the soil, etc. At the very end, you can see it all planted, mulched, and the cage just above the soil.



And that is how to make a homemade gopher basket.


These things have been a lifesaver in our garden, literally! If you also live in an area where pesky gophers rule the subterranean land, you may want to seriously consider planting trees in gopher baskets too. After reading this article, I hope you feel empowered and prepared to do so! Please let me know if you have any questions. Also, please share or pin this article if you found it useful. Thank you so much for tuning in. May your trees be happy, healthy, and safe from gophers!


Don’t miss these related articles:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing.

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How to Grow Pineapple Guava (Feijoa): Cold-Hardy Tropical Fruit https://homesteadandchill.com/how-to-grow-pineapple-guava/ https://homesteadandchill.com/how-to-grow-pineapple-guava/#comments Thu, 10 Sep 2020 14:25:11 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=1022573 Pineapple guava, also known as feijoa, are delicious, low-maintenance, pest-resistant, and beautiful. They're also one of the most cold-hardy guavas around! What's not to love? Come learn all about how to grow pineapple guava.

The post How to Grow Pineapple Guava (Feijoa): Cold-Hardy Tropical Fruit appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

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Pineapple guava is one of our top favorite fruits to grow! So much so, we now have three of them in our garden. Even if you’ve never tried the fruit itself, I highly suggest giving the plant a grow! Pineapple guava are low-maintenance, pest-resistant, and easy to train either as a shrub or tree. The beautiful silver-green foliage is full and evergreen, making it an excellent privacy screen as well. Last but not least, you’ll be blessed with delicious feijoa fruit to enjoy. What’s not to love?

Read along to learn how to grow pineapple guava, also known as feijoa (fey-oh-uh). This article will cover the ideal conditions and hardiness zones to grow feijoa, along with general characteristics, tips for planting, pollination, ongoing care, harvest time, and more! Finally, we’ll talk about a few different pineapple guava varieties to choose from.




What is Pineapple Guava (Feijoa)?


Pineapple guava (Acca sellowiana) are native to South America, namely southern Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay, and parts of Argentina. Despite the name and tropical-toned flavor, pineapple guava isn’t actually a true guava at all! Both are members of the Myrtle plant family, but feijoa is a mere distant cousin of tropical guava – and prefers subtropical conditions to thrive. In fact, pineapple guava is arguably one of the most cold-hardy types of guavas you can grow – surviving regular temperatures down to 15°F! It is now regularly cultivated in many areas of the United States, Mexico, Europe, and is exceedingly popular in New Zealand and Australia.  


What do pineapple guava taste like?


You’ll have to grow them to find out! Just kidding. Feijoa has a unique flavor that is both exceedingly sweet and slightly tart. It is reminiscent of pineapple, banana, kiwi, and guava all at once – perhaps with a hint of piney mango or mint. Basically, they’re really, really tasty! Even better, pineapple guava fruits are rich in vitamin C, fiber, antioxidants, and B-vitamins. 


A shallow wicker basket is being held up towards the sunlight, a sun rays streaking into the image leaving its mark. The basket is full of two types of guava, on the left there are green pineapple guavas, one of them has been cut in half widthwise showing the flesh hidden within. On the right there are many smaller yellow lemon guavas. Beyond the basket lies a garden of various flowering perennials, squash, turmeric, various trees, and shrubs.
A harvest of pineapple guava (green) along with lemon guava, from our front yard garden.


PINEAPPLE GUAVA GROWTH HABITS & CHARACTERISTICS


Size & Growth Rate


Pineapple guava can grow upwards of 12 to 15 feet tall and wide as a large shrub. When pruned into a tree-like structure (one or few main trunks with the understory pruned), feijoa can become upwards of 20 feet or taller over time! Yet pineapple guava takes kindly to just about any kind of pruning, so you can easily keep them more compact, slender, or short as needed.

While they can eventually get quite large, pineapple guava are generally slow-growing. We have one feijoa bush that has been in the ground for over 5 years and is just now reaching 6 feet tall. This can be seen as a pro or a con, depending on what your goal is.


Foliage


Pineapple guava shrubs are evergreen, with silvery gray-green, oval, thick leaves. Combined with their handsome structure, appearance, and easygoing nature, they’re a popular plant for ornamental landscaping and privacy – fruit aside! Untamed, they grow with several branching stems from the base.


DeannaCat is touching a limb of a pineapple guava, its branch is a fuzzy silver in color due to the growth being new. Its leaves are a waxy green silver color. When you grow pineapple guava, the older growth turns more woody and brown while the new growth is lighter green to silver.
Olive green on top, silvery gray on the bottom.
A pineapple guava grown into a single trunk style tree with a full bushy top, there are a few flowers amongst the silvery green leaves.
A young pineapple guava plant, trained into a single-trunk tree. This plant is probably three to four years old. Photo from Monrovia
A large pineapple guava tree growing in a front yard. The house is set behind it and the tree is taller than the roofline. The shrub emanates from four main branches that are bare of foliage until about halfway up the height of the shrub where it turns into a dense bush of foliage.
A very established pineapple guava shrub (tree?). This is significantly larger than any of our plants. My guess is that it at least 10 years old, if not older. Photo courtesy of Trees of Santa Cruz County.


Can you grow pineapple guava in a container?


Yes! Their slow-growing nature and leniency for pruning also makes pineapple guava very container-friendly. As with all potted plants, the size of the container will dictate the size and vigor of the plant. Choose a large container with ample drainage holes and high-quality potting soil to promote healthy growth. Truthfully, our feijoa shrubs growing directly in the ground produce better quality fruit – though we probably don’t fertilize the one in the half wine barrel as much as we should either! We’ll talk more about fertilizing feijoa below. 


A back patio photo showing a patio table in the center. Beyond is a house with various plants, trees, and shrubs growing along its walls. An apple tree is centered in a large wooden garden bed, to the left there is cacti, fava beans, hanging jade, and parts of a bay laurel. To the right there are succulents and a pineapple guava shrub growing in a half wine barrel.
A feijoa growing in a wine barrel (far right) in our patio garden. That plant is about 3 years old.


Flowers


Pineapple guava plants flower prolifically in the spring, dotting the green shrubs with spectacular sweet-smelling flowers. The flowers are white and pink with red firework-like centers, and the white petals (sepals) around the outside of the flower are edible and delicious! They melt in your mouth much like cotton candy and marshmallows combined. Birds and bees are highly attracted to the flowers, and help to pollinate as they visit. The wild birds in our yard love to eat the edible flower petals too. 


A close up image of a flowering pineapple guava. The flowers have creamy white petals amongst a center that looks like a firework explosion of red pistils with yellow pollen balls at the ends of them. The plant has green waxy leaves. The sun is shining in from the background, illuminating the branches and foliage beyond.



Do pineapple guava need a second plant for cross-pollination?


The answer is: it depends. While the majority of pineapple guava varieties are considered ‘self-fruitful’, they don’t readily pollinate themselves. Cross-pollination from a partner plant will greatly increase fruit development. So if ample fruit is what you’re after, plant at least two shrubs near one another (close by is best, but in the same general yard space should do the trick). That is, unless you opt for a known self-fertile variety. Coolidge, Pineapple Gem, and Apollo are three grafted self-fertile pineapple guava varieties that can easily bear fruit without a partner plant. 

Birds and bees are the chief natural pollinators of feijoa, but you can also get involved too! Hand-pollination can be the most guaranteed way to get a good harvest of guava. We get plenty of fruit without hand-pollinating our plants, yet it is really easy to do if needed! Simply use a small brush (e.g. paintbrush or makeup brush) to collect pollen from the flowers on one plant, and then go brush it onto the flowers of the other plant. Continue this back and forth between the two plants (or more). 


Feijoa hand-pollination demonstration from Jane Squier on YouTube


Fruit Development


Following the spring bloom, pineapple guava fruit develop over the summer and ripen in the fall. On average, feijoa fruit are about the size of a medium to large egg, or 1 to 4 inches oblong. Immature pineapple guava plants usually take several years to bear a decent crop of fruit for the first time, though that can vary depending on the climate, cultivar, and type (e.g. started from seed, grafted shrub, etc). All things considered, I think they’re well worth the wait! 


DeannaCat is holding a large pineapple guava. Its waxy green exterior is shiny, beyond lies the front yard garden with a myriad of flowering perennials with purple, yellow, pink, and blue flowers. Beyond that lies garden beds that are full of young winter seedlings.
I remember being SO proud and excited when we got our first homegrown pineapple guava!


IDEAL GROWING CONDITIONS


Cultivation & Propagation


You can grow pineapple guava from seed, a cutting, or a small shrub from a nursery or online retailer. Starting from seed will clearly take the longest to mature. I have also heard some seed may not bear fruit ‘true to seed’.

To propagate pineapple guava, take an approximately 12-inch long wide cutting from young softwood branches near the bottom of the shrub. The chosen cutting should be no thicker than 1/4-inch in diameter, be fairly pliable, have at least 3 nodes, and a few leaves at the top of the stem. Dip the freshly cut end in rooting hormone solution, and then plant it in a light fluffy soil mixture – such as seed starting mix, or peat moss mixed with sand and sawdust.

The most surefire way to successfully grow pineapple guava is from a young grafted nursery plant. If you read the rest of this article and decide to grow feijoa at home (great choice!), I suggest giving your local nursery a call to see if they carry them. If not, ask if they’re able to bring one (or two) in on special order for you! They should also (hopefully) provide insight on what varieties do best in you area.


Feijoa Growing Zones


Pineapple guava thrive in temperate subtropical areas or warm, dry Mediterranean climates. However, they’re quite adaptable and can deal with both extreme heat and cold in the right conditions.

Most resources say that pineapple guava grows best in USDA hardiness zones 8 – 11. However, my friend has a thriving feijoa growing in Tennessee’s zone 7! (Edit: Since posting this, I’ve heard from another Insta-friend who grows Nazemetz pineapple guava in Kentucky zone 6b. Read more about how she pulls it off in the ‘planting location’ section below). Feijoa does exceedingly well in California, the Pacific Northwest, Florida, Texas, and more. Pineapple guava is also an excellent choice for coastal zones because it tolerates salty spray and mildly saline soils.

Different varieties of pineapple guava are more or less tolerant to high heat or freezing conditions, so choose one that is known to grow well in your climate. Check out the list of varieties near the end of this article!


A diagram of the United States with hardiness zones 8-11 highlighted with orange, peach, and yellow. This takes up portions of the entire West Coast, South West, to the South, and up into the Carolinas.

The orange, peach, and yellow area of the map represent USDA hardiness zones 8-11, where pineapple guava grows best.


Temperature & Sun Exposure


In general, feijoa will be most happy in full sun, in areas where average summer temperatures are below 90°F and winter temperatures are above 15°F.

Prolonged periods below 15°F can kill them, but otherwise this is an impressively cold-tolerant guava! While the plants themselves are quite hardy, sudden fall frosts can damage ripening fruit. A late spring frost may destroy flower blossoms, and therefore the fruit they were destined to produce. Excessive heat can also cause stress and impact fruit production, such as loss of flowers or developing fruit. Expert cultivators say that the best-flavored fruits come from areas with only moderately warm summers.  


Planting Location & Protection


In hotter climates (regular summer temperatures over 90 degrees), choose a location with afternoon summer shade or overall filtered sunlight to protect from excessive heat. Even in our more moderate climate, all of our plants are growing quite well in part-sun, part-shade! Note that a minimum of 6 hours of daylight is suggested for the most fruit prolific production. 

Pineapple guava are not big fans of high winds, so also keep that in mind when selecting their spot. Planting a feijoa shrub near a wall or fence can help provide protection from the wind, along with reflected heat and added frost protection in areas with harsh cold winters. In a sudden extreme cold snap, you could also drape your pineapple guava shrub with a bed sheet or frost blanket to shield it.

Our friend that is successfully growing pineapple guava in Kentucky zone 6b (Nazemetz variety) says she created a sheltered microclimate for it, by planting it near a south-facing wall and mulching generously. When it snows heavily, she wraps it in burlap and/or plastic to keep the snow off – similar to what I suggested just above.


A pineapple guava growing amongst a fence line with various trees. The shrub has silvery green foliage that stands out amongst the greens and browns of its neighbors. When one decides to grow pineapple guava it is good to protect it from wind.
Nestled among other plants, near a fence and tall house, our largest pineapple guava shrub (about 5 years old) receives protection from wind and some shade.


Soil Type & Mulch


Pineapple guava grows easily in average garden soil. For the best results, plant your feijoa in moderately rich, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. The one thing they will not tolerate is constantly soggy soil, so be sure to plant them in a location where drainage is not an issue.

Poorly-draining soil should be amended with horticultural sand, small volcanic rock, pumice, or other aeration additives to promote drainage. Also work in some aged compost, worm castings, and/or quality bagged potting soil to improve nutrient content of the soil if needed. Finally, provide an inch or two of mulch around the base of the shrub to protect its shallow roots. 

Related: Compost 101: What, Why & How to Compost at Home (6 Methods!)


ONGOING CARE


Water Needs


Pineapple guava grow best when moderate water is provided. Aim for consistently damp, moist soil – but not soggy! Avoid overwatering (especially in winter months) as overly wet soil can lead to root rot or other related diseases. Feijoa are actually quite drought tolerant once established! However, a lack of adequate water can lead to poor fruit production. Under-watered pineapple guava fruit may be small, not as juicy as desired, or drop from the plant before they’re fully developed. 


Routine Fertilizer

True to their slow-growing, easy-going nature, pineapple guavas grow willingly without heavy fertilizing. Once or twice per year, apply a slow-release, well-balanced fertilizer around the base of the shrub. (Twice per year is best for pineapple guava growing in pots, such as during the spring and fall). We like to use this organic all-purpose fertilizer, and replenish with a fresh layer of compost mulch as well.  Routine feeding will encourage better flower and fruit production.


A close up image of a flowering pineapple guava. The flowers have creamy white petals amongst a center that looks like a firework explosion of red pistils with yellow pollen balls at the ends of them. The plant has green waxy leaves.


Pest Issues 


Pineapple guava are remarkably disease and pest-resistant, with little-to-no known issues. Despite dealing with our fair share of powdery mildew, aphids, cabbage worms, and other pesky critters in our garden, the feijoa goes unscathed. It is even deer-resistant! I have never experienced rodents, raccoons, or opossums going after the fallen fruit. If anything, the birds do like to eat the flower petals, but that is more of a perk than a problem since they’re helping to pollinate. In California, feijoa may occasionally have issues with black scale but can be treated with neem oil.  


HARVESTING & EATING


How to harvest pineapple guava


Now, for the fun part. As if growing pineapple guava couldn’t get any easier… the fruit also self-harvests! As feijoa grow ripe in the fall, they naturally fall from the shrub on to the ground below. Thankfully they’re still a tad firm when they do this, so they shouldn’t get too bruised up. Then, you can simply scout around the ground under the shrubs and collect the fruit. To help the process along, or to harvest from a large fruit-laden plant, you could also set up a net, drop cloth, or tarp below the plant to catch falling fruit, and then give it a shake!


How to tell if pineapple guava is ripe


Pineapple guava do not change color (stay green) when they are ripe. Once they fall from the shrub or tree, your pineapple guava may still need a few days to fully ripen. Simply leave them out at room temperature until they reach your desired consistency and flavor. Ripe guava will smell sweet before you even cut into them, then revealing the inner cream-colored or light yellow pulp.

Pineapple guava can be enjoyed while still semi-firm, just barely compressing under your fingers when lightly squeezed (like a perfectly ripe avocado). Or, some folks like them super soft – almost overripe. I prefer them somewhere in between. Try a few at different stages to see what you like best!

Ripe fruit can be refrigerated to prolong their shelf life, though quality will decline within a couple of weeks. Pineapple guava are prone to bruising and ‘going downhill’ quickly, which is part of the reason they’re not commonly sold in grocery stores.


A white ceramic bowl lined with a copper ring and handles is sitting on a stump amongst agave and a perennial grass. The bowl is full of pineapple guava that are medium to large in size. One of them is cut in half lengthwise showing the whitish yellow flesh and gelatinous cavities. Grow pineapple guava so there is plenty to eat fresh or preserve.


How to eat or preserve pineapple guava


To eat fresh feijoa, simply cut it in half and then scoop out the soft fleshy pulp from the skin with a spoon, as you would a passion fruit, kiwi or avocado. Some people eat the whole thing like an apple, skin and all! Though it is technically edible, I personally do not enjoy eating the thick skin. Pineapple guava can also be added to salads, yogurt and granola, baked goods, smoothies, or even blended cocktails. Piña-guava-coloda, anyone?

If you have more fruit than you can consume fresh, there are a number of ways to preserve pineapple guava. Making guava jam is one especially popular method! We love to blend the ripe fruit with coconut milk or coconut cream to create guava popsicles, using these stainless steel popsicle molds. Or, you can simply freeze the fruit whole to process or enjoy later (though the texture won’t be as wonderful to eat plain once they thaw back out). 

Another idea is to blend the ripe pulp into a smooth thick cream, spread it out very thin on solid dehydrator trays or liners, and dry the pulp to create feijoa fruit leather! If you do not have a food dehydrator, you could try this on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and the lowest heat setting in your oven (though I personally have not tried that).


A wicker basket full of pineapple guava fruit. One of the fruit is cut in half along its equator and the inside flesh is on display. The flesh is a light white yellow in color and there are four gelatinous cavities amongst the firmer flesh.
DeannaCat is holding half of a fruit that has had its flesh scooped out into a spoon that is being held above the empty fruit shell.  The flesh is white with slight yellow and the flesh is fairly firm while also having four equally spaced cavities full of a more gelatinous material that also contains the fruits seeds which are undetectable when eating.


Pineapple Guava (Feijoa) Varieties


As I was doing my homework for this article, I came across far more varieties of pineapple guava than I knew existed! Cultivars developed in South America, Australia, New Zealand, France, the United States, and more… Here is a list of the most common or popular ones, but know there are even more out there!

Pineapple Guava (straight) – Not all pineapple guava have fancy or unique names like the varieties listed below. Those are all “improved”, specially cultivated, or grafted varieties. We grow straight pineapple guava, which is what you see in the photos in this article. They are self-fruitful, but can bear more prolifically with another partner around.

Coolidge – Self-fertile. Originally from Australia, but is now one of the most common varieties grown in California. This variety reliably bears prolific semi-wrinkled fruit. May bear fruit earlier than other varieties. Grows well in cooler coastal climates, and is also one of the best-suited guavas for the Pacific Northwest (including ‘Edenvale Improved Coolidge‘)

Apollo – Self-fertile, and will pollinate other varieties. Provides a deep pineapple-flavored fruit that ripens mid to late season. These fruit are highly productive, but can be more prone to bruising. The pulp is described as well-developed but slightly gritty in texture.

Mammoth – Produces the largest guava of them all – up to half a pound or larger each! The fruit are said to be incredibly tasty, have a hint of strawberry, slightly gritty pulp, and ripen early to mid-season. It is technically ‘self-fruitful’, but will bear more when planted with another variety (or use a flowering seedling) to provide cross-pollination.

Pineapple Gem – Small, round fruit of good to very good quality. Mid to late season ripening. Tree self-fruitful but bears heavier crops if pollinated by a second plant of another variety. This variety is best for warmer climates, and it does poorly under cool, coastal conditions.

Nikita – Great for smaller spaces or tidy landscapes, with a more compact growth habit. Produces large tasty fruit, ripening earlier in the season than others. Like Mammoth, Nikita is partially self-fruitful but will bear fruit more prolifically with another variety nearby.

Nazemetz – Originated in San Diego, meaning it takes well to hot weather! Produces large, pear-shaped guava with excellent flavor and quality late in the season, October to December. Only partially self-fruitful. Plant with another variety for best crop.

Trask – A spin-off from Coolidge. Like Nazemetz, this is another variety that produces well in warmer climates. Those two together make a great pollinating pair for increased fruit production. Bears medium to large quality fruit early in the season, with thicker skin and more grainy textured pulp than Coolidge.

For a more extensive list of pineapple guava varieties, click here.


An image of Aaron's outstretched hands full of of pineapple guava fruit ranging from medium to small sized fruit. Below there are two large bromeliad plants with waxy green leaves.


And that is how to grow pineapple guava!


Now can you see why this fruit is one of our absolute favorites? Beautiful, delicious, and fuss-free… I hope this article got you excited to go grow your own feijoa too! Please feel free to ask questions in the comments below, and spread the guava love by sharing or pinning this article. Thank you for tuning in!


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DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

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20 Awesome Avocado Varieties (Type A & Type B Avocados Explained) https://homesteadandchill.com/20-avocado-varieties-type-a-b-explained/ https://homesteadandchill.com/20-avocado-varieties-type-a-b-explained/#comments Tue, 05 May 2020 22:59:34 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=1017338 Come learn about 20 different awesome avocado varieties, including their growing habits, cold tolerance, hardiness zone, fruit characteristics, and more. We’ll also discuss the difference between Type A and Type B avocado varieties, and their important relationship in cross-pollination.

The post 20 Awesome Avocado Varieties (Type A & Type B Avocados Explained) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

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Welcome to the world of avocados! And what a wonderful wide world it is. Hass, the most common type of avocado that you’ll find in grocery stores, is only one of dozens of avocado varieties around. To be honest, Hass isn’t necessarily the best one either! It just happens to be the most marketable because it ships and stores so well. Don’t get me wrong, Hass are great. We grow Hass and thoroughly enjoy the fruit! It is a beautiful tree. Yet there are plenty of other avocado varieties with unique qualities that deserve recognition too.

This article explores the attributes of 20 different awesome avocado varieties. You will learn about each of their growing habits, tree size, cold tolerance and hardiness zone, fruit characteristics, and more. We’ll also discuss the difference between Type A and Type B avocado varieties, and their important relationship in cross-pollination. 


Perhaps you’re here because you’re interested in growing your own avocados? That’s great! Once you read this article and choose what avocado varieties you want to grow, check out our extensive “how to grow avocados” guide. Or, if you’re here simply to learn more about avocado varieties – welcome! I hope you enjoy the read and learn something new.


The understory of a Hass Avocado is shown. It is loaded with hanging fruit that are about the size of small. baseballs. A hand is reaching into the  canopy and is holding one of the hanging fruits.The evening sun is shining filtered light through the canopy.
Our Hass tree. We also grow Sir Prize and Fuerte avocados.


Before we dive into all of the specific avocado varieties, let’s talk about them in terms of two larger groups first: Type A and Type B avocados.  (or, larger groups – their race, and flower type…


Type A vs Type B Avocados & Cross-Pollination 


Every variety of avocado on the list below falls into either the Type A or Type B category. For example, Hass is a Type A and Fuerte is a Type B.  To encourage optimal fruit development, it is best if both a type A and type B avocado tree are planted close by.  

While ideal, it is not absolutely necessary to have one of each type. Most avocados varieties are considered “self-fruitful” and therefore do not need a partner tree for cross-pollination. Even without a friend, they should develop some avocado fruit. Hass and Reed are particularly good at providing a decent crop when grown solo. On the other hand, having that opposite Type A or Type B partner tree around basically guarantees a much larger and more successful crop.

One study even showed over a 50% increase in fruit development in Hass when provided a cross-pollinator tree (Vrecenar-Gadus and Ellstrand, 1985). Other avocado varieties are especially dependent on a partner tree and perform even poorer without one, such as Pinkertons. Avocado pollination is primarily accomplished by bees, and less so by wind.

If you are interested in growing avocados, consider planting two different avocado trees in your yard. Yet if you don’t have the space, other avocado trees in your neighborhood may be sufficient to provide cross-pollination to your tree. How close do avocado cross pollinator trees need to be? Some internet sources say within 25 to 30 feet. Yet others say within a few neighborhood blocks. Essentially, if avocado trees are common in your area, you should be just fine with one. 


A two part image collage, the first image shows a close up image of male stage flowers from a Hass avocado tree. The petals are open about halfway. The second image shows female stage flowers from a Fuerte avocado tree, the petals are all the way open, even hanging downwards. Depending on the type you grow, their male and female flowers will open at different times of the day.
Two different trees/types of avocados blooming in our yard on the same afternoon. On the left, a Hass (Type A) in the male stage – more closed up and the stigma no longer receptive. On the right, a Fuerte (Type B) in the female stage – open wide, and receptive to pollen shed from nearby male Type A’s (like the Hass across the yard).


What is the difference between Type A and Type B avocados?


Avocados have very unique flowers. Rather than having separate male and female flowers like some plants, or both male and female anatomy available to interact within the same blossom as others do – avocado flowers essentially change sexes! Type A avocados bloom with their female reproductive parts available first, and do so in the morning. Type B avocado flowers also open in the morning, but in their male phase. Then, each of them pull a switcheroo – and the flowers open as the opposite sex the following day in the afternoon. 

Because avocado flowers take turns exposing their male and female parts, it is more difficult for a single tree to pollinate itself and thus bear fruit. Again, it does happen… but to a lesser extent than when an opposite Type A or Type B is around, wagging their complimentary sex parts around. That is why in nearly all commercial avocado ranches, you’ll find multiple avocado varieties grown nearby to increase cross-pollination. The most common partnership is Hass and Fuerte. 

A chart showing a type A and type B cultivar on the left with with a Day 1 and Day two on the top of the chart, each day has a morning and afternoon section. There is a male and female symbol that is assigned to each part of the day. The type A and B avocados show that there male and female flowers are both open at the same time of day.
Type A and Type B avocado flower blooming behavior. Chart courtesy of University of California Agriculture & Natural Resources


Interestingly enough, there are other commonalities between the avocado varieties of each Type A or Type B group – beyond their blooming behaviors! Consider the fruit itself.

Several of the Type A avocados are quite Hass-like, or descendants from Hass itself. That is, they have thick firm skin with rich and nutty flesh, high in oil content. They’re known to be exceptionally creamy.

In contrast, most of the Type B avocados are considered “greenskins”. They’re usually more thin-skinned, fragile, and may have slightly more watery flesh with lower oil content. Consequently, Type B avocados are less popular among the commercial avocado industry as they damage easily in shipping and processing. Even more reason to grow your own: to enjoy avocado varieties otherwise not readily available! Some people find the flavor and texture of Type B’s inferior to Type A’s. I personally love many from each group.



AVOCADO VARIETIES


At a Glance


All avocado varieties have many things in common: They’re evergreen perennial trees, generally do best in USDA hardiness zones 8 or 9 through 11, and don’t tolerate extreme heat or freezing temperatures well. That is, with the exception of some hardy Mexican varieties – highlighted below. Avocado trees enjoy ample sunshine and water, but impeccably free-draining soil and absolutely no standing water.

And of course, the best commonality of all: they supply delicious, rich, creamy avocado fruit! The most sure-fire way to get a prolific fruit-bearing avocado tree is to purchase a young grafted nursery tree, which should bear fruit within 2 to 4 years on average. On the other hand, pit-grown trees can take 10-15 years to produce fruit and also will not “breed true” to the parent seed. Note that avocados do not ripen on the tree. They must be harvested once mature, and allowed to finish ripening for 3 to 10 days at room temperature. 


A wicker basket full a freshly harvested vegetables. The front of the basket has a pile of fava beans while the back contains bok choy and lacinato kale leaves. The middle of the basket contains five large Hass avocados and one extra large Sir Prize avocado.
Harvesting green Hass and Sir Prize avocados, because they don’t ripen on the tree. The time it takes for avocados to mature on the tree varies with the variety. Some may be ready several months after fruit sets (the same year) while many other types are harvested a year or longer after the initial fruit set, like Hass. Read each variety’s bloom vs harvest time below!


Type A Avocado Varieties

Hass, Pinterton, Lamb Hass, Carmen Hass, Gwen, Reed, Mexicola Grande, Stewart, Holiday, Pryor (aka Fantastic), Opal (aka Lila)


Type B Avocado Varieties

Fuerte, Bacon, Zutano, Sir Prize, Joey, Winter Mexican, Brogdon, and Wilma aka Brazos Belle


Both Type A and Type B

There is one special variety of avocado that has both type A and type B flowers at once. The Wurtz or “ Little Cado” is also the only true dwarf avocado variety. Between its compact size, superior self-fertility, and ability to bear fruit sooner than most – the Little Cado is awesome for backyard gardens and small spaces. See more details below.


Most-Cold Hardy* Avocado Varieties

Joey, Bacon, Opal (aka Lila), Pryor (aka Fantastic),  Mexicola Grande, Wilma (Brazos Belle), and Brogdon. Each of these avocado varieties is described more below, including the temperatures they’re known to be tolerant of. 

*Please note that avocado trees are most tolerant of the cold temperatures listed once they are mature and established, or 3-5 years old. Young trees will require additional protection.


Now, let’s go over each of these in detail!

A diagram showing the cross section of eight different avocado varieties with their variety listed below. Their shape and pit to flesh ratio all vary slightly.
A handful of the avocado varieties we’ll explore. Photo courtesy of CureJoy


11 “TYPE A” AVOCADO VARIETES



Hass 

  • Flower/Pollination: Type A
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: Up to 35 feet, though can be kept pruned to be shorter (as with all avocado trees) 
  • Cold-Hardy to: Frost-sensitive below 32F.  Also less heat tolerant than some avocado varieties, such as the more heat-hardy Mexicola, Lamb Hass, and Reed. 
  • Fruit Characteristics: Creamy, nutty, high-fat flesh and medium-large fruit. Thick textured skin that turns dark green to black when ripe.  
  • Bloom Time: February to May 
  • Ripens: April through September – from the previous years flowers, as Hass fruits stay on the tree for 12 to 14 months. 
  • Other Unique Facts: The Hass variety was first bred in a Southern California backyard in the 1930s. However, the Hass wasn’t grown and marketed on a large scale until the late 1970s. Both Hass and Reed avocado varieties provide a decent crop when grown solo (without a pollinating partner). 


A two part image collage, the first image shows a close up of a hanging Hass avocado fruit. A hand is cradling it from the underneath to help illustrate its size. The second image shows the understory of a Hass avocado tree with many small fruit hanging from its branches. These fruit are probably only a couple months old and need much more time to mature.
Hass take a very long time to mature on the tree! These photo of our baby Hass fruit was taken in July 2019. The fruit first set earlier that spring, but will not be harvested until spring to summer 2020.


Pinkerton

  • Flower/Pollination: Type A
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: The Pinkteron tree is considered more manageable than some other avocado varieties. Medium size but with a sprawling canopy.
  • Cold-Hardy to: 30F
  • Fruit Characteristics: A heavy and early producer of oblong slender pear-shaped fruits. Pintertons have excellent rich nutty flavor much like Hass, but with notably smaller pit – making them exceptionally popular. The skin is moderately thick, pebbled, easy to peel, and stays green as the fruit ripens. 
  • Bloom Time: Spring
  • Ripens: November to April
  • Other Unique Facts: Pinkertons are particularly dependent on having a Type B pollinator partner tree around to have a good fruit set. 


Reed 

  • Flower/Pollination: Type A
  • Zones: 10-11
  • Growing Habits: Reed trees grow more slender and upright than some other avocado varieties. When paired with good pruning, it can make for a good compact tree in tighter spaces. Though it is still a large tree, reaching up to 37 feet at maturity.  Known to be very prolific, and also produce well without a partner pollinator tree. 
  • Cold-Hardy to: Frost sensitive below 32F. More tolerant to heat than Hass.
  • Fruit Characteristics: Produces huge round fruit reminiscent of green softballs. Thick slightly pebbled skin peels easily to reveal extremely buttery flesh with excellent flavor. Reed fruit easily weigh over a pound each, and are the largest of all avocados! 
  • Bloom Time: Spring to summer
  • Ripens: The following summer. Like Hass, they need nearly a year on the tree after first developing!
  • Other Unique Facts: Reed avocados require less water than Hass – a real perk in drought-ridden California! Lower-fuss and vigorous, making it a good choice for new avocado growers. 


An image showing two hands holding one half of a cut Reed avocado. The other half that still contains the pit is laying on a cutting board next it. A piece of cardboard is in the image and it has red writing on it that says "Reed". There are  also two other whole, ripe avocados on the table next to the cutting board.
A big fat Reed avocado (center and right) from Greg Alder. The other two whole avos shown are not Reed.


Lamb Hass

  • Flower/Pollination: Type A
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: Medium size upright and compact tree. Lamb-Hass is a cross between the traditional Hass Avocado and a Gwen (semi dwarf) Avocado varieties. 
  • Cold-Hardy to: Sensitive below 30°F. More heat-tolerant than Hass.
  • Fruit Characteristics: Similar to Hass. Excellent flavor and high oil content. The thick pebbly skin turns black as the fruit ripens, isn’t as pliable as Hass and therefore less easy to peel. 
  • Bloom Time: Late winter to spring
  • Ripens: The following April to November. The Lamb Hass has a longer and later season than Hass (extends the typical Hass season), but also takes slightly longer to mature on the tree. Give Lamb Hass at least one year (up to 18 months) on the tree after the fruit first develops until harvest. 
  • Other Unique Facts: Slightly more cold-hardy and heat-tolerant than classic Hass.


Carmen Hass

  • Flower/Pollination: Type A
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: A medium-large tree (up to 30 feet) with a round, dense canopy. More dense than Hass.
  • Cold-Hardy to: 30°F
  • Fruit Characteristics: Very similar to Hass, but slightly smaller fruit. Excellent flavor and high oil content. Pebbly thick skin that turns black as the fruit ripens. 
  • Bloom Time: Carmen is unique in that it has two distinct blooming seasons, one in spring and often another in late summer.
  • Ripens: November through the following September to October (bears fruit a couple of months earlier than standard Hass)


A 10 to 12 foot Hass avocado tree bathing in the evening sun. There is a neighboring house in the background while there is a Magnolia and fig tree planted around  its vicinity. There are also nasturtiums growing along the ground with many pink flowers blooming.
Our 5 year old Hass tree. The Carmen Hass is similar, but with a more dense canopy (meaning it would block those neighbors even better!)


Gwen

  • Flower/Pollination: Type A
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: One of the smaller avocado varieties, naturally maxing out tree height around 15 feet.  Can be pruned and maintained smaller as well. 
  • Cold-Hardy to: 30°F
  • Fruit Characteristics: Similar to Hass in regards to fruit texture and flavor (nutty and buttery) but slightly less creamy. The fruit are a tad larger than Hass, with thick pebbled skin that turns dark green when ripe rather than black. 
  • Bloom Time: Spring
  • Ripens: the following May- September.
  • Other Unique Facts: Due to the compact size and prolific fruit production, Gwen is a great urban backyard tree – and able to grow in large suitable containers. 


Mexicola Grande

  • Flower/Pollination: Type A
  • Zones: 8b-11
  • Growing Habits: Considered a vigorous grower and producer, bearing fruit regularly and heavily. A large avocado tree, reaching heights of 40 feet or greater. 
  • Cold-Hardy to: 20-22°F (down to 18°F for short periods or once quite mature).
  • Fruit Characteristics: Large fruits of almost a pound each, including a large pit. The leathery skin is dark green to black when ripe, and the fruit has a nice nutty flavor. 
  • Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
  • Ripens: August to October
  • Other Unique Facts: Mexicola is the most cold-hardy of these Type A’s. It is also more heat-hardy than Hass.


Stewart (Stuart)

  • Flower/Pollination:  Type A
  • Zones: 8b-10
  • Growing Habits: Medium size tree, more compact than Mexicola Grande – reaching about 20 to 25 feet when fully mature and without pruning.
  • Cold-Hardy to: 20-22°F
  • Fruit Characteristics: Similar to Mexicola Grande (described above) with pear-shaped fruit and very creamy, nutty-flavored flesh. The thin leathery skin turns dark purple to black when ripe. 
  • Bloom time: Spring
  • Ripens: October to December
  • Other Unique Facts: Stewart is an offspring from Mexicola, but more compact. Exhibits B-like characteristics, though it is a type A pollinator.


An image showing a pile of five different avocados on a table. Each avocado variety has been written on its skin with a chalk type pen. There is a Stuart, Zutano. Bacon, Hass, and Fuerte shown and labeled as such.
Image from Greg Alder


Holiday

  • Flower/Pollination:  Type A
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: Semi-dwarf, usually reaching a maximum of 12 to 15 feet tall. Distinct weeping canopy.
  • Cold-Hardy to: Sensitive below 30°F
  • Fruit Characteristics: Known for its large oval fruit that stays green as they ripen. Medium oil content and good flavor.
  • Bloom Time: Spring
  • Ripens: September to January.  
  • Other Unique Facts:  Holiday got its name for ripening during the holiday season. Due to the compact size and prolific fruit production, Holiday is a great choice for small backyards and container-gardening. 


Pryor/Del Rio (sometimes called Fantastic)

  • Flower/Pollination:  Type A
  • Zones: 8-11
  • Growing Habits: A medium-large tree that can reach 25 to 30 feet high
  • Cold-Hardy to: 15 to 18°F (once established)
  • Fruit Characteristics: Fairly small fruit with medium to olive green thin skin. The texture is creamy and has good oil content, with mild flavor. 
  • Bloom Time:  Winter through late spring
  • Ripens: August to November
  • Other Unique Facts: Note that Pryor/Del Rio is the true variety and rootstock that consistently exhibits the characteristics described above. “Fantastic” avocado trees are often grafted onto Pryor rootstock and essentially become one in the same, and are often marketed as such. However, there has been noted variation between Fantastic trees (e.g. they may sometimes be grafted onto other less cold-hardy rootstock). 


A hand is holding four smaller fruit. There are two different types, the two on the left are small, roundish and green in color while the two on the right are are longer, slender pear shape and black in color.
Del Rio (Pryor) on the left, and Wilma on the right (described below). Photo courtesy of Florida Fruit Geek


Opal aka Lila

  • Flower/Pollination: Type A 
  • Zones: 8b/9-11
  • Growing Habits: A smaller avocado tree, reaching 15 to 20 feet on average.
  • Cold-Hardy to: 15°F for short periods of time, otherwise 20 to 22°F
  • Fruit Characteristics: Considered very rich and nutty. Medium-size, pear-shaped fruit that stay green when ripe. 
  • Bloom Time: Later winter through spring
  • Ripens: July to November
  • Other Unique Facts: Lila is a genetic clone of Opal, and is considered to be the second most cold hardy of all Mexican avocado varieties.



8 “TYPE B” AVOCADO VARIETIES



Fuerte

  • Flower/Pollination: Type B
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: A large tree (up to 35 feet) with a wide sprawling canopy.
  • Cold-Hardy to: Cold-hardy down to 28°F. Protect from cool coastal wind for best fruit set. Like Hass, Fuerte is less heat-tolerant than some avocado varieties.
  • Fruit Characteristics: Produces large long oval green-ripening fruit, with leathery skin that is easy to peel. Fuerte is known for its excellent flavor and creaminess, but with slightly less oil content than Type A avocado varieties. 
  • Bloom Time: May to November
  • Ripens: November to April
  • Other Unique Facts: The Fuerte is the second most popular commercial variety behind Hass, and commonly grown as a cross-pollinator for Hass. 


An image showing a close up of a Hass on the left and a Fuerte on the right. The Hass is more round in shape while the Fuerte is larger in size with a slightly more tapered neck.
The two most common commercial avocados, and often grown together. Hass on the left, Fuerte on the right. Photo credit to Greg Alder at The Yard Posts


Bacon

  • Flower/Pollination:  Type B
  • Zones: 8b-11
  • Growing Habits: Medium and upright. Reaches an average of 20 feet in height when mature, a tad smaller than many other avocado varieties
  • Cold-Hardy to: down to 24-26°F, making it a popular variety in colder climates.
  • Fruit Characteristics: Large green smooth fruit stay green (but darken slightly) as they ripen. The skin is quite thin, making them difficult to peel. Plan to scoop with a spoon! Bacon avocado flesh is yellow and creamy, but with less oil content than Hass. Typically larger fruit than Hass, but not quite as big as Reeds.
  • Bloom Time: Late winter into spring
  • Ripens: the following December through February 
  • Other Unique Facts: Bacon is noted to be a good producer, even without a partner pollinator tree around. Yet as Type B, it is very commonly planted as a companion for Type A avocado varieties. 


Sir Prize

  • Flower/Pollination: Type B
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: Medium size upright tree, reaching 25 to 35 when fully mature. 
  • Cold-Hardy to: Frost-sensitive below 32°F. 
  • Fruit Characteristics: More like Type A avocado varieties in regards to flesh texture and fat content. As a descendant from Hass, Sir Prize is very similar – with creamy, nutty flesh that turns black as it ripens, but grows larger fruit with a smaller pit!
  • Bloom Time: Spring to Summer
  • Ripens: Earlier than Hass, in winter to early spring.
  • Other Unique Facts: Sir Prize is said to have the largest flesh-to-pit ratio of all the commercial avocado varieties. Also, supposedly the fruit doesn’t turn brown (oxidize) when cut or kept refrigerated. 


A two part image collage, the first image shows a hand holding a large Sir Prize avocado against a light cedar fence. The size of the fruit is larger than the palm of the hand. The second d image shows the same avocado after it has been cut in half, revealing the flesh to pit ratio inside. The flesh is greenish yellow with a small pit residing in the middle.
A Sir Prize avocado from our tree. Look at that killer flesh-to-pit ratio!


Zutano 

  • Flower/Pollination:  Type B
  • Zones: 8b-11
  • Growing Habits: A large avocado tree, reaching heights over 40 feet when mature.
  • Cold-Hardy to: 26°F
  • Fruit Characteristics: Medium large good-tasting fruit (similar to Fuerte in appearance) with thin green-ripening skin. Zutano fruit are lower in oil and higher in water content, making them less rich, creamy, and flavorful than many other avocado varieties
  • Bloom Time: Spring
  • Ripens: October to February
  • Other Unique Facts: Zutano is known to be a very consistent and heavy producer.


Winter Mexican

  • Flower/Pollination: Type B
  • Zones: 8b -11
  • Growing Habits: Up to 40 feet or taller after 25 years of growth 
  • Cold-Hardy to: 20°F degrees for short periods, otherwise 25°F once established
  • Fruit Characteristics: The flesh from Winter Mexican avocados is similar to the Hass, but with smaller fruit on average. Produces quite early. 
  • Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
  • Ripens: November to January 
  • Other Unique Facts: While this tree is fairly cold-hardy, don’t let the name “winter” lead you to think it is the most cold-hardy of Mexican avocado varieties! Those would be Joey, Pryor, Wilma and Mexicola Grande. It is a Mexican-Guatemalen hybrid, less cold-hardy than pure Mexican types. Rather, this avocado gets its name from the time of year it bears fruit.


Brodgon 

  • Flower/Pollination:  Type B
  • Zones: 8b-11
  • Growing Habits: Mature trees reach over 30 feet tall, with a very upright and dense canopy.
  • Cold-Hardy to: 24°F
  • Fruit Characteristics: The flesh from this variety is very buttery and yellow, said to be “perfect for guacamole”. It produces quite large fruit, with smooth skin that turns dark purple as it ripens.
  • Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
  • Ripens: August to November


Four whole Brogdon avocados are shown while a fifth has been cut in half to show the flesh inside. A hand is holding the half that contains the pit which is rather large compared to the flesh. The skin of the avocados is shiny black and smooth.
Brogdon (Brogden) avocados from Florida Fruit Geek


Joey

  • Flower/Pollination:  Type B
  • Zones: 8b – 11
  • Growing Habits: Grow to 25 feet or taller
  • Cold-Hardy to: 15 to 18°F (for a short period of time)
  • Fruit Characteristics: Considered a “heavy producer” of small egg-shaped fruit. The thin skin is dark purple to black, and the flesh is described as flavorful and nutty. 
  • Bloom Time: Spring
  • Ripens: August to October
  • Other Unique Facts: Everything I see about Joey describes it as “self-fruitful” (though all avocados technically are, to a degree).This variety may perform particularly well without a pollinator partner tree.


Wilma aka Brazos Belle

  • Flower/Pollination:  Type B
  • Zones: 8-11
  • Growing Habits: Tree reaches 20 to 25 feet when mature. Can begin to produce fruit at 1 to 2 years of age (grown from a grafted nursery tree).
  • Cold-Hardy to: 15 to 18°F. One of the most cold-tolerant avocado varieties!
  • Fruit Characteristics: The medium-size fruit are long and narrow, with a rich nutty flavor reminiscent of Hass. The thin skin turns purplish black when ripe. 
  • Blooming Time: Winter to spring
  • Ripens: October to November
  • Other Unique Facts:  Like the Pryor/Fantastic name game – Brazos Bell is a genetic clone of Wilma. Wilma is the parent variety, and nursery trees sold as Wilma will come on the most trusted rootstock that consistently exhibit the characteristics described above. However, “Brazos Belle” could potentially be grafted onto different rootstock and therefore be less cold-hardy.


The understory of a Wilma avocado tree is shown. There are a handful of large black tapered fruit with smooth skin hanging from the tree.
Large Wilma avocados on the tree. Photo from Garden Oracle


Both Type A & B Flowers


Wurtz aka “ Little Cado” 

  • Flower/Pollination:  Both Type A and B
  • Zones: 9-11
  • Growing Habits: Reaches 10 to 15 feet in height maximum (10 to 12 is average) 
  • Cold-Hardy to: Frost sensitive below 32F
  • Fruit Characteristics: Provides ample good-tasting small to medium-size fruit. The skin is fairly thin and stays green as the fruit ripens. 
  • Blooming Time: Late winter through spring 
  • Ripens: May- September
  • Other Unique Facts:  This is the only true dwarf avocado variety and bears fruit young! Therefore, Little Cado makes for a great backyard tree and can also be grown in large containers – such as a half wine barrel, with ample drainage holes added. 


Three young avocado trees that are about 6 feet tall are shown. They have been planted in wine barrels and are each sitting on a pallet.
“Little Cado” trees planted in wine barrels from Bald Mountain Nursery


And that concludes this exploration of 20 awesome avocado varieties.


Uhm, who else is hungry now? I sure am. Good thing we have a ripe homegrown avocado waiting in the fridge! Are you growing any of the avocados we talked about today? Which ones? Or, did I leave a must-grow type off the list? It was definitely hard to narrow it down, since there are dozens more speciality avocado varieties than I could possibly highlight here.

I hope you found this to be interesting and informative. If so, please spread the avo love and share this article! Feel free to ask questions in the comments below.

Finally, if you live in zones 8-11, I’m thinking you’ll dig these other articles too:



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References:

We are not personally familiar with all of these avocado varieties. Therefore, I compiled information and photos from a number of expert sources to write this article, including Greg Alder, Rainbow Gardens, A Natural Farm, Backbone Valley Nursery, Florida Fruit Geek, Yamagami’s Nursery, Four Winds Nursery and the University of California. A big thank you to them all!

The post 20 Awesome Avocado Varieties (Type A & Type B Avocados Explained) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

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