Flowers & Herbs Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/garden/flowers/ Organic Gardening | Real Food | Natural Health | Good Vibes Wed, 30 Aug 2023 23:42:16 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.2 https://homesteadandchill.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/H-75x75.png Flowers & Herbs Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/garden/flowers/ 32 32 155825441 How to Make Chive Blossom Vinegar + 8 Ways to Use it https://homesteadandchill.com/chive-blossom-vinegar-recipe-uses/ https://homesteadandchill.com/chive-blossom-vinegar-recipe-uses/#respond Tue, 27 Jun 2023 20:08:30 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060785 Come learn how to make chive blossom vinegar - a gorgeous and delicious bright pink herbal infused vinegar. It's incredibly easy to make, and adds a bright zing of flavor to a wide variety of meals!

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Chive blossom vinegar is a quintessential spring garden-to-table recipe. This colorful herbal vinegar can add a bright zing of flavor to a wide variety of dishes. Plus, it’s so easy to make, it really shouldn’t be called a “recipe” at all! This post will walk you through the simple step-by-process along with frequently asked questions – including how to use chive blossom vinegar.



What is chive blossom vinegar?


Chive blossom vinegar is an herbal infusion made by soaking fresh chive flowers in vinegar – much like pickling. As the pretty lavender flowers soak, their flavor, color, and nutrients seep into the vinegar. Chive blossoms are especially high in vitamins K, C, and A. After steeping, the blossoms are strained away and the result is an absolutely gorgeous, bright pink infused vinegar.

So, what does chive blossom vinegar taste like, you ask? Well, like vinegar… with a hint of chives! Edible chive blossoms taste a bit like green onions, but have a more mild, delicate flavor than the green chives themselves. The flavor also depends on the type of vinegar you use to make it. 


A hand is holding a wooden bowl that is full of purple blossoms, a few chive stems with blossoms on the end are held next to the bowl with the same hand. The backdrop is an array of perennial plants with purple, pink and orange flowers.


Ingredients


  • Fresh chive blossoms 
  • Vinegar, such as white wine vinegar (used here) or apple cider vinegar
  • A jar or other container with a lid


Exact measurements aren’t important. I use about 1 heaping cup of chive blossoms and 2 cups of vinegar. 


What kind of vinegar should I use?


You can make chive blossom vinegar with any kind of culinary vinegar. White wine vinegar, rice vinegar, and apple cider vinegar are all popular choices. We use white wine vinegar in this recipe, which creates a really nice balance of sweet, tangy, and mild onion flavors. I also love to use homemade apple cider vinegar when we have it on hand. Red wine vinegar can also be used, but white wine vinegar really lets the beautiful natural color of the chives shine! Some recipes call for plain white vinegar, though I think the flavor is a little too harsh for my taste.


A stream of clear liquid is streaming down from the top of the image into a pint mason jar full of purple flower blooms.


How to Make Chive Blossom Vinegar


  1. Start by harvesting chive blossoms. For the best results, choose young fresh flowers that are fully open but haven’t yet begun to fade or dry out on the plant.

  2. Use a strainer to wash the chive blossoms under cool running water, and shake or gently pat dry with a towel after. The flowers don’t need to be fully dry however.

  3. Add the chive blossoms to a clean jar, or other suitable container with a lid.  Fill the jar at least two-thirds full with flowers.

  4. Next, pour vinegar over the blossoms until they are completely submerged and/or until the jar is full. Stir and press the flowers down.

  5. Add a lid, and set the jar aside in a cool dark place (room temperature) to soak and infuse for at least one to two weeks.* (See quick heat method option below.) During the first couple of days, you may want to gently tip or shake the jar to move things around so the top floating blossoms get soaked in vinegar too.

  6. When the time is up, use a colander and/or cheesecloth to strain the chive blossoms from the vinegar. Reserve the vinegar to keep, and compost or discard the used flowers. (I like to use the bottom of an empty jar to gently press out any remaining liquid from the flowers, shown below.)

  7. Finally, add your beautiful finished vinegar to a bottle or jar, and enjoy! See a list of ideas and ways to use chive blossom vinegar below.

  8. Chive blossom vinegar is safe to store at room temperature for several months, though refrigeration will extend its shelf life even further. See storage and expiration notes below. 


A pint mason jar full of chive blossoms that are covered completely in vinegar. Beyond are a few more chives with light purple blossom blooms atop the green chive.
Just after pouring vinegar into the jar
A hand is holding a pint mason jar upside down by the lid, the plant material inside is infusing, turning the vinegar into a pinkish color. Beyond is an array of purple, pink, and yellow flowers.
Two weeks later
A hand is holding a pint mason jar from the top while pressing down onto a wire mesh strainer full of chive blossoms that have been strained from the chive blossom vinegar sitting in the liquid measuring cup below.
Using a jar to lightly press the chives in the strainer to squeeze out the extra liquid


Quick heat method to make chive blossom vinegar


Looking to make chive blossom vinegar more quickly? Lightly heat the vinegar on the stovetop first, then pour warm-hot vinegar over the flowers instead. The heat will speed up the infusion process and the vinegar will be ready for use in just three days. (This method works, but the result isn’t quite as rich or high-quality as a slow, gentle infusion – so it’s worth the wait! Keep in mind that heating apple cider vinegar will reduce its health benefits.)


How long does chive blossom vinegar last?


Chive blossom vinegar should stay good for many, many months. After all, you’ve essentially preserved the chive blossoms by pickling them! It is shelf-stable and can be stored at room temperature for up to 2 to 3 months. When stored in the refrigerator, it can last for up to a year.  Putrid, off odors or cloudiness are signs that the vinegar has gone bad and should be discarded. 


A fancy glass bottle is in the foreground full of brilliantly light red liquid. Beyond there is a smaller bottle that is halfway full of the same liquid, a stainless steel funnel is sitting inside the top opening.


How to Use Chive Blossom Vinegar


One of the most common ways to use chive blossom vinegar is as a salad dressing on green salads, though it can be used in many other ways! Use it in any recipe that calls for vinegar where you’d also enjoy a hint of mild onion flavor.


  1. Salad dressing. Drizzle the vinegar right over salad with a bit of olive oil, or use it as an ingredient in other homemade salad dressing recipes. It’s especially awesome for vinegar-forward salads like greek salad!

  2. In potato salad or pasta salad, corn salads, rice salads, or other similar dishes that call for acid (vinegar or lemon juice).

  3. Dips and sauces. A little splash will bring a welcome oniony-zing to homemade tzatziki sauce, hummus, salsa, guacamole, pesto, artichoke or caramelized onion dip, baba ganoush and more.

  4. Pickles. Chive blossom vinegar makes a flavorful pickling brine that can be used to pickle other vegetables, such as in this quick refrigerator dill pickles recipe or to make pickled peppers. You can use 100% chive blossom vinegar to make pickles, or just a portion mixed with other vinegar.

  5. Egg dishes. I love adding a sprinkle of apple cider vinegar and fresh chives to egg salad and deviled eggs, so why not chive blossom vinegar?

  6. As part of a marinade, such as for roasted vegetables or meats. I bet it would even be tasty with fish and chips, like malt vinegar!

  7. Brighten soups. Many soup, stew, and chili recipes call for a little splash of vinegar or lemon juice at the end – including our favorite kale lentil soup! The acid really helps to brighten and bring together all the savory flavors.

  8. Burger or sandwich drizzle. I love a good loaded veggie sandwich or burger with a drizzle of oil and vinegar! You could also use chive blossom vinegar in lieu of balsamic in an oil-and-vinegar bread dipping plate, which pairs especially well with a rustic chewy loaf of homemade sourdough. 


A glass bottle with a glass stopper for the top is full of brilliantly pink to light red chive blossom vinegar. A couple chive greens with blossoms are arrayed next to the jar while an arch full of pole beans and snap peas connecting two raised garden beds is in the background.


And that is how you make and use chive blossom vinegar.


So stinkin’ easy, right? I hope you enjoyed learning how to make this beautiful herbal vinegar. Perhaps it will become one of your new favorite spring rituals as well! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, or if you come up with any more tasty ways to use it. Also please consider leaving a star rating below and/or sharing this post if you found it useful. Thank you so much for tuning in today, and enjoy!


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Chive Blossom Vinegar Recipe (Ways to Use It)

Come learn how to make chive blossom vinegar – a gorgeous and delicious bright pink herbal infused vinegar. It's incredibly easy to make, and adds a bright zing of flavor to a wide variety of meals!
Course Dressing, Preserves, Salad Dressing, Sauce, Seasoning
Keyword chive blossom vinegar
Prep Time 10 minutes
Infusion Time 10 days
Servings 2 cups

Equipment

  • 16 ounce jar or similar container with lid
  • strainer and/or cheesecloth
  • storage bottle or jar

Ingredients

  • 1 cup fresh chive blossoms (exact measurements not necessary)
  • 2 cups vinegar of choice – white wine vinegar recommended (apple cider vinegar or rice vinegar are also good options)

Instructions

  • Harvest fresh chive blossoms. For the best results, choose flowers that are fully open but haven’t yet begun to fade or dry out on the plant.
  • Use a strainer to wash the chive blossoms under cool running water, and shake or gently pat dry with a towel after. The flowers don’t need to be fully dry however.
  • Add the chive blossoms to a clean jar, or other suitable container with a lid.  Fill the jar at least two-thirds full with flowers. 
  • Pour vinegar over the blossoms until they are completely submerged and/or until the jar is full. Stir and press the flowers down.
  • Add a lid, and set the jar aside in a cool dark place (room temperature) to soak and infuse for at least one to two weeks. * (See quick heat method notes below). During the first couple of days, you may want to gently tip or shake the jar to move things around so the top floating blossoms get soaked in vinegar too.
  • When the time is up, use a colander and/or cheesecloth to strain the chive blossoms from the vinegar. Reserve the vinegar to keep, and compost or discard the used flowers.
  • Finally, add your beautiful finished chive blossom vinegar to a bottle or jar, and enjoy!
  • Chive blossom vinegar is safe to store at room temperature for several months, though refrigeration will extend its shelf life for up to a year. Discard if it develops off/putrid odor or becomes cloudy.

Notes

Looking to make chive blossom vinegar more quickly? Lightly heat the vinegar on the stovetop first, then pour warm-hot vinegar over the flowers instead. The heat will speed up the infusion process and the vinegar will be ready for use in just three days. (This method works, but the result isn’t quite as rich or high-quality as a slow, gentle infusion – so it’s worth the wait! Keep in mind that heating apple cider vinegar will reduce its health benefits.)



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How to Make Soothing Chickweed Salve Recipe and Infused Oil  https://homesteadandchill.com/chickweed-salve-recipe/ https://homesteadandchill.com/chickweed-salve-recipe/#comments Wed, 21 Jun 2023 19:11:05 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060525 There's nothing worse than feeling uncomfortable in your own skin! Come learn how to make soothing chickweed salve. It's easy to do, and can help calm skin irritation including rashes, redness, eczema, bug bites, poison ivy, swelling, and more.

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There’s nothing worse than feeling uncomfortable in your own skin! So read along to learn how to make our soothing homemade chickweed salve recipe. It’s easy to make chickweed infused oil and salve, and requires only a handful of ingredients. (Some of which you may be able to find in your own backyard!) The result is a beautiful, moisturizing, nutrient-rich topical salve that can calm skin irritation of all kinds – including rashes, redness, eczema, bug bites, poison ivy, and more. 

If you’re here because you want to make chickweed salve, chances are you’re already familiar with chickweed itself… But just in case you aren’t, let’s start with a quick background lesson.



What is Chickweed?


Chickweed (stellaria media) is a tender, edible, and nutritious annual herb. It’s often thought of as a “weed”, commonly found growing in the shade in backyards, open fields, and riparian habitats during the cool wet season. Chickweed is originally native to Europe but has been naturalized throughout the United States, Canada, and beyond. Historically, chickweed has been used by Native Americans for centuries in herbal medicine and skincare. 

Learn more about chickweed here, including foraging, cultivation, harvest, and identification tips. 


A wicker basket full of freshly harvest chickweed. It is held aloft in front of a grass meadow underneath large oak trees.
We harvest and dry wild chickweed from our property all winter and spring – stocking up enough to use all year long!


What is Chickweed Salve?


Chickweed salve is a soothing golden-green topical balm made with the chickweed plant, natural oil, and wax (usually beeswax). The first step in making chickweed salve is to soak or infuse dried chickweed in oil, which extracts the beneficial compounds from the plant material into the oil. Then, the infused oil is combined with other ingredients like beeswax to make it more firm and spreadable, creating a salve or balm. 

You can also customize your homemade chickweed salve recipe and add optional ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E oil, other skin-friendly herbs (e.g. calendula, chamomile, rosehips, or lavender), or essential oils to enhance the moisturizing and healing benefits. For example, I often like to soak half chickweed and half calendula in oil to make an extra-rejuvenating salve!


A half gallon mason jar is filled with half with calendula flowers and half chickweed that is infusing in oil. The infused oil will then be used to make chickweed salve.
Infusing sweet almond oil with both dried chickweed and dried calendula


Benefits of Chickweed Salve


Chickweed possesses many therapeutic qualities that make it wonderful for natural skincare and healing! First, it’s loaded with numerous vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants including Vitamin C, beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc. Chickweed also has potent cooling, drying, analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-fungal properties. When combined with moisturizing natural oils and beeswax, this gives chickweed salve the ability to fight skin inflammation, reduce redness, itching, and more. 


What is chickweed salve used for?


Chickweed salve may help soothe irritated skin and conditions including (but not limited to):

  • eczema
  • rashes and hives
  • insect bites
  • psoriasis
  • poison ivy or poison oak
  • acne
  • minor burns and scrapes 
  • sunburn
  • razor burn
  • general itching, redness and swelling


I broke out in hives recently (after pruning some overgrown elderberry bushes – they’re toxic) and our chickweed-calendula Skin Calm Balm provided immediate relief. The hives were gone within 10 minutes!


A metal tin of chickweed salve, the tins lid is resting partially on the bottom part of the tin, revealing the golden salve within. Calendula flowers and chickweed garnish the surrounding area.
Our chickweed-calendula “Skin Calm Balm” is offered seasonally in our shop – along with many other organic skincare salves, face oil, bath salts, and more.


Drying Chickweed


This chickweed salve recipe calls for dried chickweed. Since added moisture (water) can cause mold and spoilage, it’s important to use 100% dry herbs in infused oil and salve – especially when using the slow cold oil infusion method like we do in this recipe. Remember, oil and water don’t mix! 

Thankfully, chickweed dries very quickly. If yours isn’t yet dry, simply lay out the fresh chickweed on an herb drying screen or in a woven basket in a warm, dry, well-ventilated location for several days. Or, pop it in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting until fully crispy dry. That’s what we do!

You can also buy certified organic dried chickweed here.


A dehydrator tray full of dried chickweed. A hand is holding up part of the dried plant material for better inspection.
We use our Excalibur dehydrator to dry all sorts of veggies, fruits, flower and herbs – chickweed included! I love that it has low-heat “living foods” and herb settings that retain the medicinal compounds and nutrients as much as possible.


Chickweed Salve Recipe


Ingredients


  • Dried chickweed – enough to loosely fill an 8 oz jar (see infusion notes below).
  • 1 cup (8 ounces) carrier oil of choice. Popular carrier oil options for skincare include sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, and coconut oil. You can use one, or mix a couple! For the maximum healing benefits, we like to use certified organic cold-pressed oils. Learn more about the pros and cons of 11 carrier oils here.
  • OR 1 cup (8 ounces) of already-infused chickweed oil
  • 1/4 cup (1 ounce) beeswax pastilles or pellets. Beeswax is the most common type of natural wax used to make chickweed salve. It’s readily available, easy to work with, and creates a perfectly smooth, firm but spreadable salve. Beeswax is also antimicrobial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and highly moisturizing! See vegan wax options below.
  • Optional: 1 Tbsp organic shea butter, which is highly moisturizing and rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants.
  • Optional: a few drops of essential oils of choice. Technically, you can safely use up to 100 drops (1 tsp) maximum per cup of carrier oil, though that will result in a very, very strongly-scented salve. I suggest using ¼ to ½ that amount, or less. Lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus are all especially soothing for skin irritation (antibacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory). We like to use certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy.


Supplies Needed


  • A double-boiler or DIY double boiler (e.g. a smaller pot or glass bowl that can rest inside a slightly larger pot). To prevent overheating or denaturing the therapeutic compounds, it’s important to use a double boiler rather than heating your chickweed salve ingredients directly on the stove.
  • Small glass jars or salve tins, for storage. We often use 2-ounce amber glass jars or larger cobalt blue 4-ounce jars for personal use or gifts, and 2-ounce salve tins for easy shipping for our shop.


Yield: This recipe makes just over a cup of finished chickweed salve, or about 8 to 10 ounces (4 or 5 two-ounce containers). Note that I made a double batch in the images shown. There is a scalable, printable recipe at the end of this article.


A white ramekin is full of oil sitting next to a metal measuring cup full of beeswax pastilles and a tablespoon measurement of shea butter. These are the ingredients to make chickweed salve. A fresh sprig of chickweed is splayed out as a garnish.


Vegan wax options for chickweed salve


It’s possible to make chickweed salve with plant-based waxes like soy wax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax too. However, this may take a little experimentation since they have different textures and therefore may yield different results than beeswax. Soy is an easy 1-1 replacement for beeswax, while you’ll want to use slightly less carnauba or candelilla wax than beeswax since they’re more firm and prone to cracking (e.g. 1 part wax to 6 parts oil, rather than 1:4).


How to Make Chickweed Infused Oil


Before making the salve, first create chickweed infused oil. Fill a clean jar or other container about two-thirds full of dried chickweed (lightly packed). Next, pour over your oil of choice. Use enough to fully cover and submerge the chickweed. Again, this recipe calls for 1 cup of chickweed oil, so use at least a cup of oil or more. 

Add a lid and let the chickweed infuse in the oil in a cool dark location for at least 10 days, or up to several weeks. The longer it infuses, the more potent the oil will become! Once the time is up, strain the chickweed and reserve the oil. I like to set a small cheesecloth-lined strainer on top of a new clean jar or measuring cup, and pour the chickweed oil through. Then I can gather the chickweed in the cheesecloth to squeeze out any remaining oil. See photos below.

If you’d like to use a quick heated oil infusion method and/or use fresh (wet) chickweed instead of letting it passively steep, see this guide for further direction. 


A pint mason jar of infusing green plant material in oil. The surface surrounding the jar contains a bunch of dried plant material while a wicker basket behind the jar is full of freshly harvested green plant material.
Soaking dry (not fresh!) chickweed in oil
A four way image collage, the first image shows a jar with a fine mesh strainer and cheesecloth resting over the top of it while a jar of infused oil is poured into it from above. The second image shows the jar after the infused oil has been strained, the strainer and cheesecloth now contain the infused plant material that was strained out. The third image shows a hand holding the cheesecloth as one would a tea bag, it has been squeezed to render out any oil that was left within the plant material. The fourth image shows the jar of infused oil, the cheesecloth of plant material is in the background.
Straining the oil after a few weeks of infusing


Instructions to Make Chickweed Salve


  1. Before starting, get your salve tins, glass jars, or other salve storage containers of choice ready and waiting.

  2. Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.

  3. Add enough water to the bottom portion of your double-boiler so that the top bowl or pot is in contact and resting in the water below.

  4. Next, heat the double-boiler over a medium-low heat on the stovetop uncovered (without a lid). Remember, we want to avoid excessively heating the chickweed oil more than what is necessary! Just enough to melt the beeswax.

  5. Monitor and routinely stir the mixture until the beeswax (and shea butter) completely melts. Stir to thoroughly combine, and then remove from the heat immediately thereafter.

  6. Wait to add optional essential oils until after removing the liquid salve from the heat. They’re very volatile and therefore will dissipate quickly when exposed to high heat. Whisk to combine.

  7. While it’s still hot, carefully pour the now-liquid chickweed salve into your chosen storage containers. If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.

  8. Finally, allow the chickweed salve to fully cool and harden before adding lids.

  9. Now your homemade chickweed salve is ready to use to soothe and heal your skin! Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve and apply as needed. A little goes a long way!


Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it’s medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. Discard if mold appears.


A stainless steel pot is sitting inside of a large pot to create a double boiler. There is oil, beeswax pastilles, and a glob of shea butter in the top pot.
A makeshift DIY double boiler: a smaller stainless steel pot nestled inside a larger one, with water in the lower pot.
A stainless steel pot is poised over metal tins, pouring melted golden liquid into the tins below.
A honeycomb shaped array of round metal tins of chickweed salve. The salve is a vibrant, yolk colored yellow, fresh chickweed twigs garnish the area around the salves.


And that concludes this lesson on making homemade chickweed salve.


That was pretty easy, right? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel excited and empowered to go make chickweed salve of your own. I also hope it helps your skin feel wonderful! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this to be useful, please consider leaving a star rating or sharing this post. Thank you so much for tuning in today.


Don’t miss these related posts:


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How to Make Homemade Chickweed Salve

Learn how to make soothing chickweed salve with this easy step-by-step tutorial. Chickweed salve can help calm skin irritation and conditions including rashes, eczema, minor burns, insect bites, poison ivy or oak, psoriasis, razor burn, and more!
Keyword chickweed balm, chickweed oil, chickweed salve
Prep Time 10 minutes
Cook Time 10 minutes
Cooling Time 20 minutes
Servings 10 ounces

Equipment

  • A double-boiler, or make-shift double boiler (such as a glass pyrex bowl or stainless steel bowl perched on top of a saucepan with water below)
  • Glass storage jars or salve tins

Ingredients

  • 1 cup Chickweed-infused oil (dried chickweed previously soaked in sweet almond oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, or other carrier oil of choice – see infusion instructions in post)
  • 4 tbsp Beeswax pastilles. 4 Tbsp = approximately 1 once if you're using shaved, block, or other forms of beeswax. (vegan option: replace with the same amount of organic soy wax or slightly less candelilla wax)
  • 1 tbsp Shea butter (optional)
  • 20-25 drops Essential oil of choice such as lavender, peppermint, or eucalyptus – all great choices for skincare. (Feel free to scale up or down, but the maximum concentration or safe dilution ratio = up to 96 drops EO max per 1 cup oil)

Instructions

  • Have your chosen salve tins or small glass storage jars ready and waiting.
  • Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.
  • Heat the mixture on the stovetop over medium-low heat (without a lid) and only until the beeswax melts. Stir frequently.
  • As soon as everything melts and is thoroughly combined, remove from heat.
  • Add essential oils once removed from heat. They're highly volatile and prone to dissipating.
  • While it is still hot, carefully pour the liquid salve into your chosen containers. (If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.)
  • Set the full chickweed salve containers aside (lids off) and allow them to fully cool.
  • The chickweed salve will harden as it cools, and then it is ready to use. Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve, and apply to your skin as needed. A little goes a long way!
  • Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it's medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. 



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Spectacular California Wildflower Superbloom 2023 Photos https://homesteadandchill.com/california-wildflower-superbloom-2023/ https://homesteadandchill.com/california-wildflower-superbloom-2023/#respond Fri, 28 Apr 2023 00:28:09 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2057727 Record-breaking winter rains lead to a spectacular show of spring wildflowers! Come check out some of my favorite sights from the 2023 California wildflower superbloom, including Carrizo Plain and Montana de Oro State Park.

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I’m not gonna lie… the intense, record-breaking rain that we received this winter in California was pretty frustrating at times. Many parts of the state were hit with flooding, sink holes, mudslides, and destructive storm surges. Our home suffered water damage that we’re still in the process of repairing too. On the other hand, it’s fantastic to see our reservoirs full, groundwater recharging… and the hills absolutely covered with wildflowers this spring! So much so, the 2023 California wildflower superbloom was visible from space!

We ventured out on a couple day trips in search of wildflowers over the last few weeks, and the sights were so spectacular, I thought I’d share some of my favorites with you here. I broke them up into two sections below: our visit to Highway 58/Carrizo Plain, and our local Montana de Oro State Park – my favorite. Enjoy the scroll, and happy spring!


Disclaimer: Stay On Trails!


It’s always important to respect nature and stay on trails when you’re out visiting wild spaces – and even more so when it comes to wildflowers! Delicate annual wildflowers are easily trampled and crushed, and when that happens, they can’t spread seed to regenerate future flowers to come. While it may be tempting to get that perfect shot, or even sit down for a dreamy picnic, please stay on trails and do not step on flowers! All photos shown below are taken from trails or roadside.


Don’t miss all the gorgeous oceanside blooms, cows, otters, and more in the Montana de Oro section below!


Places to See Wildflowers (near the Central Coast)


Carrizo Plain

One trip took us out Highway 58 from Santa Margarita to Carrizo Plain National Monument. The brightly colored fields and hills were jaw-dropping, but most of that day was spent in the car, stopping at various eye-catching spots along the way. We mostly saw California native wildflower fiddlenecks, goldfields, baby blue eyes, purple heliotrope, and Indian paintbrush out towards Carrizo Plains, with plenty of poppies, tidy tips, lupine, and goldfields just outside of Santa Margarita.

Carrizo Plains is about a 4-hour round trip drive from home, but between all the stops and some car troubles we encountered when we first got on the road, it turned into a very long, full-day adventure. I wanted to do the Painted Rock hike to stretch our legs, but apparently the sensitive habitat is usually closed during the spring.

If you ever visit Carrizo Plain, plan in advance! It’s a very remote location with no gas, no services (minus some porta-potties at the visitor center) and limited cell service. Gas up, pack food and water, sun protection, Bug Off Balm, and other supplies you may need.


Yellow common fiddleneck (Amsinckia intermedia)
Baby blue eyes (Nemophila menziesii) and purple heliotrope (Phacelia crenulata)
A sea of tidytips and poppies
I spy goldfields and Indian paintbrush among the poppies and tidytips!


Montana de Oro State Park


My favorite wildflower outing this spring was our hike along the Point Buchon Trail at the end of Montana de Oro State Park, just 40 minutes from home. Unfortunately, we just missed the poppy peak by a week or two (the grasses had started to grow tall around them, hiding a lot of the shorter wildflowers) but the experience and 7-mile oceanside hike was still breathtaking. I much prefer being able to hike, move my body, and take in the sights, smells, and sounds along the ocean while enjoying the wildflowers – compared to the slightly more touristy, grab-your-photos-and-run, car-based experience of Carrizo Plains. My soul needed this!

On this hike, we saw plenty of poppies and lupine, along with some goldfields. We also got to see quail, otters, snakes, butterflies, ample birds, and other wildlife friends along the way.


We were wading through thigh-high lupine on some parts of this trail!
Good thing we packed our Bug Off Balm to keep the mosquitoes, ticks, and pesky no-see-ums away!
It was extra special to see groups of otters bobbing in the kelp. We said goodbye to our kitty Dalai the day before this hike. She was almost 18, our first ever cat together, and we often called her “otter”.
Watch where you step! We didn’t see any rattlesnakes today, but did come across this harmless gopher snake friend.
Happy cows graze near the end of Point Buchon Trail
Thanks for coming along!


Sheesh, Mother Nature sure is magnificent. Let’s do our best to take care of her, shall we?



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50+ Great Gopher Resistant Plants for California & Beyond https://homesteadandchill.com/gopher-resistant-plants/ https://homesteadandchill.com/gopher-resistant-plants/#comments Mon, 13 Mar 2023 18:54:09 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2056419 Got gophers? Here is a list of over 50 gopher resistant plants for your landscape, including many drought tolerant and California native plants! We'll also talk about non-toxic gopher control methods like gopher cages.

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Do you live in gopher country? I feel your pain! Gophers are a giant nuisance here on the Central Coast of California. Without cages, they’ll eat and destroy everything we plant in the ground. Well, just about everything… Thankfully, there are a number of plants that gophers don’t like to eat. Read along for a list of over 50 awesome gopher-resistant plants for your landscape. As an added bonus, many of them happen to be drought-tolerant and California natives!

I’ve broken this article down into a complete list of all gopher resistant plants, as well as separate lists of gopher resistant California native plants and fruit trees/shrubs for easy reference. But first, let’s briefly familiarize ourselves with gophers, a few disclaimers, and non-toxic gopher control methods like gopher cages.



About Gophers


Gophers, also known as pocket gophers, are burrowing rodents native to North and Central America. There are over 30 different gopher species, and are mostly found in the western half of the United States as well as Florida. 

Gophers are known for their uncanny ability to destroy gardens, farms, and ornamental landscaping. They create vast networks of subterranean tunnels, and leave telltale mounds and holes at the soil surface. Gophers primarily eat plant roots, tubers, and bulbs, which can easily stunt or kill plants. They often pull entire plants underground! Our veggies wouldn’t stand a chance if they weren’t planted in raised garden beds with hardware cloth below. Learn how to build gopher-proof raised garden beds here.

Gophers are much larger than voles and moles, and significantly more destructive. Voles also eat some vegetation but less ravenously, and moles prefer non-plant food (e.g. insects, grubs, and worms).


A diagram of the lower 48 US states, there is a key just below the map showing three different rodents which  each has its own specific color for identification. For the map, moles are blue, voles are green, and gophers are red. The corresponding map shows the rodents spread across the US but mostly only the western half contains gophers while moles and voles can mostly been found throughout.

Pocket gophers are ubiquitous across the western US (including all of California, not just north and south). Image via Vole Control and Scimetrics LLC.


What plants do gophers avoid?


Gophers tend to avoid plants with a strong scent, bitter flavor, toxic sap, or similar irritating traits that make the roots, leaves, or stems less appealing to snack on. Rosemary, eucalyptus, oleander, and gopher purge are prime examples. In many cases, gopher resistant plants are also undesirable to voles, deer, rabbits, or other rodents. On the other hand, some plants are simply irresistible to gophers. In our garden, gophers are drawn to fig trees, verbena, and artichoke plants like potato chips! 


A gravel hardscaped garden is shown with wood raised beds. Next to the garden area there is a pollinator garden that is lined with rocks, it contains many rosemary, fuchsia, yarrow, lavender, salvia, and lantana.
An area of our garden that doesn’t see much gopher activity – thanks to the rosemary, California fuchsia, yarrow, lavender, salvia and lantana planted in this space.


Disclaimer and Gopher Cages


Gophers aren’t usually attracted to the “gopher resistant” plants listed below and should leave them alone for the most part. Meaning, these plants certainly won’t be their first choice when other food sources are available. However, gophers may eat just about any plant if they’re hungry enough! Young plants (of any type) are especially vulnerable to gopher damage. 

So, even if a plant is considered gopher resistant, it may be prudent to plant young or valuable plants (e.g. expensive trees) in gopher cages – particularly if you’re dealing with a very active gopher population. Cages may not be necessary with just a couple of gophers around. It’s also important to note that the gopher resistance can vary depending on the variety or cultivar of these plants. 

For example, we’re currently planting dozens of native gopher resistant plants – rock roses, catmint, yarrow, and sea daisies – but are still using flexible (moderately protective) gopher cages to offer the plants some level of protection while they get established. Roll-on mesh “speed baskets” (available in one gallon or 5-gallon sizes) are cheaper and much easier to work with than sturdier firm wire cages or DIY hardware cloth baskets, but they’ll degrade with time and gophers do occasionally chew through them. I would NOT use them for gopher-susceptible plants, but they’re perfect for this instance!    


When in doubt, use a gopher cage to protect your plants. 


A tow way image collage, the first image shows a feijoa plant sitting on top of soil inside of a 5 gallon gopher cage. The next image shows the feijoa after while it has been planted halfway, the soil only coming up to the top half of the rootball to show how the cage covers the entire root ball. More soil will be added to complete bury the root ball. Feijoa is a great, edible, gopher resistant plant to grow.
Unlike tropical guava, pineapple guava (feijoa) is part of the eucalyptus family so it is gopher resistant. Even so, we’re planting this one in a moderately protective gopher cage – just in case.


Non-Toxic Gopher Control


Whatever you do, please do NOT use gopher bait or poison to control gophers. It puts ALL animals at risk of secondary poisoning and death – including domestic pets and wildlife! All too often, curious canines, cats, birds of prey, opossums, or other predators eat poisoned gophers (or rats) and become poisoned themselves. Learn about alternative non-toxic gopher control methods here, including pre-made gopher cages, DIY cages, raised bed protection, gopher repellents, natural predators, traps, and more.



Gopher Resistant Plants: Complete List


Here is a list of over 50 plants that gophers are not attracted to. An asterisk* denotes plants I have direct experience with and can personally confirm are not bothered by gophers – at least in our garden! And we’ve been gardening where gophers are rampant for well over a decade.


  • Alliums (especially ornamental alliums) – gophers may eat garlic, onions or leeks but usually avoid them
  • Amaryllis Belladonna
  • Anemones
  • Artemisia – including wormwood, mugwort and sagebrush
  • Bearberry (groundcover manzanita)
  • Bottlebrush*
  • Breath of Heaven
  • California Buckwheat (Eriogonum)*
  • California Fuchsia (Epilobium)*
  • Catmint*
  • Ceanothus (California lilac)*
  • Citrus trees* (once established, I would cage young trees)
  • Coffeeberry (California buckthorn)*
  • Columbine
  • Coyote bush
  • Currants (Ribes)
  • Daffodils
  • Day lillies
  • Elderberry*
  • Euphorbia species – cacti and succulents in this family, along with “gopher purge” (Euphorbia lathyris)
  • Eucalyptus*
  • Ferns*
  • Fescue
  • Fountain grass and deer grass
  • Foxglove
  • Grevillea*
  • Hellebores 
  • Indian Hawthorn 
  • Lantana*
  • Lavender*


continued below…

Many lavender flowers make up the image with a bee feeding on the featured flower that is in focus.
Spanish lavender
A close up image of a small bottlebrush plant with a number of frilly red flowers. Bark mulch lays on the ground below the plant while a screen of green plants is in the background with a number of purple and pink flowers.
Bottlebrush (Little John)
A newly planted ceanothus is featured, the edges of its gopher cage is popping up out of the soil even though it is a gopher resistant plant.
Our beautiful new little Ray Hartman ceanothus (California lilac). Again, we added a relatively flimsy gopher cage to keep it safe while it’s young. It will bust out of it eventually and will be just fine.


Gopher resistant plant list (continued)


  • Manzanita*
  • Marigolds*
  • Monkeyflower (Mimulus)* 
  • Mint family* – including culinary mint or perennial shrubs like Coyote mint
  • Monterey Cypress trees
  • Mullein (Verbascum)*
  • Myoporum (ground cover)
  • Nandina (Heavenly bamboo)
  • Oleander
  • Palm trees
  • Pomegranate* (supposedly, with ‘Wonderful’ variety being the most gopher resistant)
  • Penstemon* (to varying degrees)
  • Pine trees and redwoods
  • Pineapple guava (feijoa)*
  • Rock Rose (Cistus)*
  • Rosemary*
  • Salvias and sage* – especially native perennial salvias and Mexican sage
  • Sea Thrift (Armeria)
  • Seaside Daisy (Erigeron)*
  • Society Garlic
  • Strawberry Tree* (Arbutus unedo, marina, and menziesii)
  • Thyme*
  • Toyon
  • Wild Ginger (Asarum caudatum)
  • Yarrow (Achillea)*
  • Yerba Mansa
  • Willowherb (Epilobium)


Culinary sage is growing amongst pincushion, salvia, lavender, cosmos flowers, and an agave in a large ceramic pot. A wall of green plants is accented by the variety of purple and white flowers.
Sages and salvias are notoriously gopher proof, including culinary sage!
A well grown in fence line that contains feijoa, bougainvillea, rosemary, fig tree, yarrow, and jasmine. A few larger trees are visible amongst the many plants.
I spy a handful of gopher resistant plants: pineapple guava, yarrow, rosemary, and salvia to name a few.
A close up image of the canopy of a strawberry tree, a few bunches of the strawberry like seed balls hang from the limbs. In the background, a tall and towering eucalyptus tree stands in the background.
Our Strawberry tree (Arbutus marina)


Gopher Resistant Fruit Trees or Shrubs


If us humans like to eat something, gophers probably do too! Unfortunately, that means there are very few gopher resistant edible plants:

  • Elderberries
  • Citrus, once established
  • Pineapple guava (feijoa)
  • Pomegranate (supposedly with ‘Wonderful’ variety being the most gopher resistant)


It’s also been reported that gophers don’t like to eat mulberry trees, avocado trees, apricots or plum trees, but we’ve had a mulberry and avocado killed by gophers! In fact, they chewed right through the basket and ate all the roots down to a nub. To be safe, I suggest putting all edibles and fruit trees in gopher baskets where gophers are a known menace. 


A close up image of a pineapple guava branch with multiple flowers on it, beyond lies the rest of the bush which is covered in flowers. Pineapple guava or feijoa is a great gopher resistant plant for many growing zones.
Pineapple guava is one of my favorite edible perennials. It’s evergreen, pest-free, beautiful, gopher resistant, cold-hardy, and provides bountiful delicious fruit to boot. Keep in mind it needs a pollinator partner to fruit though! Learn more about growing pineapple guava (feijoa) here.
DeannaCat is holding a large pomegranate fruit that has been harvested from a tree that sits just beyond. Many pomegranates are still hanging in the tree, the trees limbs heavy with fruit.
We planted our ‘Wonderful’ pomegranate in one of those flimsy gopher cages, but haven’t seen any gopher activity around it. On the other hand, we used the same style of cage for a nearby Mulberry tree and the gopher chewed through and killed the tree.
DeannaCat's hand is underneath the stump remains of an avocado root ball which has been eaten down leaving no roots whatsoever, even the main root has been chewed through.
All that is left from our poor avocado tree roots… Damn gophers!


Gopher Resistant California Native Plants


Landscaping with native plants packs a punch of benefits. Native plants support local biodiversity, wildlife and pollinators, are generally less maintenance, require no fertilizer, and here in California, have to be drought-tolerant. Even better, many California native plants are also gopher resistant! The ones that could survive constant gopher pressure here are the ones that have persisted and thrived.


  • Artemisia – including wormwood, mugwort and sagebrush
  • Bearberry (groundcover manzanita)
  • California Buckwheat (Eriogonum)
  • California Fuchsia (Epilobium)
  • California grape
  • California goldenrod 
  • Ceanothus (California lilac)
  • Coffeeberry (California buckthorn)
  • Coyote Bush
  • Fescue (California and blue)
  • Indian Hawthorn 
  • Manzanita
  • Monkeyflower (Mimulus) 
  • Penstemon (Penstemon clevelandii, spectabilis and more)
  • Pine trees and redwoods
  • Salvias and sage (e.g. Salvia clevelandii, Black sage, hummingbird sage and others)
  • Strawberry Tree (Arbutus menziesii) aka Pacific Madrone
  • Wild Ginger (Asarum caudatum)
  • Yarrow
  • Yerba Mansa


Sources: Personal experience, California Native Plant Society, Mostly Natives, Tasty Landscape, SF Gate


A large light purple rock rose flower with golden center is the focus of the image. Black sage branches are shooting up beyond with one of them in front of the rock rose flower, a few whitish flowers are coming off its bracts. Both of these are gopher resistant plants.
California native black sage and rock rose intermixed.
A close up image of a branch of a flowering golden monkey flower, the rest of the plant and blooms are blurred in the background of the images focus. Monkey flower is a gopher resistant plant that is native to California.
California native monkey flower


And that concludes this lesson on gopher resistant plants.


If you too struggle with gophers in your garden, I hope this gave you some great insight on plants to consider growing! Let me know if you have any questions or insight to share in the comments below. Also please consider pinning or sharing this post if you found it useful. Thank you so much for tuning in today, and happy plant shopping!


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DeannaCat signature, keep on growing.

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How to Make Salve or Balms 101: Simple Flexible Recipe https://homesteadandchill.com/make-salve-or-balms-recipe-101/ https://homesteadandchill.com/make-salve-or-balms-recipe-101/#comments Wed, 22 Feb 2023 21:43:32 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2055796 Learn how to make salve or balms with a simple flexible recipe, including various oil and wax options, using herb-infused oil, essential oils, butters, and more. Once you know the basics, the options to be creative are endless!

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Are you interested in making homemade salves or balms? Then you’ve come to the right place! Read along to learn the basics to make salve or balm with a simple and flexible recipe. We’ll talk about the difference between salves and balms, wax-to-oil ratios, and various oils or waxes you can use – including vegan options. Finally, I’ll share how to customize and enhance a basic balm or salve recipe by using herb-infused oils or optional ingredients like cocoa butter, shea butter, and essential oils. 

Luxurious lavender salve, calming calendula salve, radiant rosehip balm, cooling comfrey chickweed balm, luscious lip balms… After you read this guide and grasp the basics, the options of what you can create are truly endless! Bonus: making salve and balms is far easier than you likely imagine. You can find a printable version of the recipe at the end of this post.



What’s the difference between a salve and a balm?


Topical salves and balms are very similar overall. They’re both made by combining oil and some sort of wax and/or butter (beeswax being the most common) as a stiffener, resulting in a semi-solid but spreadable mixture to apply to your skin. Balms and salves are so similar, many herbalists and DIYers use the two terms and recipes fairly interchangeably (myself included). 

Technically, the main difference between a balm and a salve is that salves are slightly more soft, while balms are a bit more firm. Therefore, homemade balm recipes usually have a higher wax-to-oil ratio to achieve a firmer end product, while salve recipes have lighter wax in comparison. Balms are better at creating a natural, long-lasting barrier on the skin and locking in moisture, while spreadable salves are excellent for moisturizing skin or treating specific conditions.

The firmer texture means balms can come in a wider range of packaging, including lip balm tubes or cardboard push-up tubes, while soft salves are usually best stored in a tin, glass jar, or other wide shallow container you can dip into. And in case you’re curious, an ointment is simply an even softer, more oily version of a salve. 


A hand is holding a tin of salve, below there are three more tins of salve with lavender flowers scattered throughout the area. Use medicinal flowers to make a healing salve.


Supplies Needed to Make Salve or Balms



A small double boiler full of oil, cocoa butter wafers, and beeswax pastilles sits on the gas stovetop.
Here is a DIY double-boiler made by nesting a smaller pot inside a slightly larger one, with water inside the bottom pan.
A glass measuring cup pouring liquid into rows of metal tins until they are full. The top row of tins is almost complete before the bottom two rows will be poured.
Filling 1 oz lip balm tins with the assistance of a measuring cup
A close up birds eye image six jars of calendula salve arranged like bowling pins. There is a dried calendula flower perched in between the top edges of a few of the jars. There are also dried flowers scattered around the area surrounding the jars. Make calendula salve if you need skin relief.
Finished calendula salve in 2 oz amber glass jars



Understanding Salve and Balm Wax-to-Oil Ratios


  • To make a salve or balm, simply heat 1 part beeswax with 3 to 5 parts natural oil of choice in a double-boiler until combined (see detailed instructions below). For example, ¼ cup of beeswax pastilles or shavings and about 1 cup of oil, or 1 cup of beeswax for every 3 to 5 cups of oil. 
  • A 1:3 wax-to-oil ratio will create a firm balm, a 1:4 ratio is great for a standard salve, and a 1:5 wax-to-oil ratio creates a soft, spreadable salve. You could even use a 1:6 ratio, which will result in an extra soft, gooey salve. Any additional oil beyond that, the salve will fail to properly set up or stiffen.

  • To measure by weight and ounces, use a 1:8 ratio such as 1 oz beeswax (1/4 cup) to 8 fluid ounces of oil for a standard salve. This is particularly helpful if you’re working with beeswax blocks or chunks.

  • Scale the recipe up or down as needed while maintaining the recommended ratios. Note that other types of natural waxes require slightly different ratios than beeswax, explored in the “alternative wax” discussion to follow. 
  • Keep in mind that adding additional ingredients like butters will also influence the texture. For example, we generally use a 1:4 ratio for salves but also add shea butter, which softens it up a bit. Lip balm recipes almost always include a butter component (like our lip balm recipe with cocoa butter). 


Basic Homemade Salve Recipe


  • 1 cup (8 ounces) of oil, plain or herb-infused. Use ¾ cup for a firm balm (1:3 ratio) or up to 1.25 cups for a softer salve (1:5 ratio)
  • ¼ cup (1 oz) beeswax pellets or pastilles
  • Optional: 1 to 2 Tbsp shea butter, cocoa butter or mango butter
  • Optional: Up to 1 tsp of essential oils (100 drops maximum) for a very strong-scented salve. I recommend using ¼ to ½ that amount or less. Lavender, roman chamomile, eucalyptus, rosemary, and peppermint are a few popular options. We like to use certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy.
  • Optional: ½ tsp of vitamin E oil


This recipe makes just over 1 cup of finished salve – around 10 ounces, or five 2-ounce jars.

Next let’s explore the various types of oils, herbal oils, waxes, and optional ingredients used to make salve or balm. Or, feel free to skip straight to the salve-making instructions to make salve here.



A birds eye view of two white ramekins, one is filled with beeswax pastilles while the other contains oil. A tablespoon measurement is laying off to the side full of shea butter while a bottle of lavender essential oils is laying face up nearby. A number of dried lavender flowers are scattered throughout the scene.


Homemade Salve or Balm Ingredients 


Oil of choice


To make a salve or balm, you can use any high-quality natural oil you prefer – or a combination of two or more! Sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, and argan oil are some of my favorites. Olive oil, coconut oil, and avocado oil are also popular choices. Using coconut oil that is solid at room temperature will increase the overall firmness of your salve, while fractionated (liquid) coconut oil will behave like any other oil.  

Hop over to this article to explore 11 carrier oil options for skin care, including the unique benefits, characteristics, and comedogenic ratings of each one. Use these oils as-is or infused with herbs first (explained below). For the most healthy and healing salves, I suggest using cold-pressed, virgin, and organic oils whenever possible.


Five glass bottle with cork or rubber tops are arranged in a V-shape. Each one is partially full of oil and next to each bottle contains the item from which the oil was made. Flax, peanut, avocado, almond, along with a less distinguishable nuts or seed.


Beeswax 


Beeswax is the most common type of wax used to make salves or balms. It’s readily available, easy to work with (especially beeswax pastilles or pellets) and creates an ideal smooth salve or balm texture. Even better, studies show that beeswax is naturally antimicrobial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, and has the ability to both soothe and protect the skin while locking in moisture!


Alternative (vegan) wax alternatives for salve or balms


Beeswax aside, you can make salves or balms with other natural plant-based waxes too. For instance, soy wax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax are popular vegan wax options to make herbal salves or balms. However, this may take a little experimentation on your part since they have different textures and therefore may yield different results than beeswax. 

  • Soy wax is an especially easy and direct swap for beeswax (1:1) in any salve recipe. I recommend using organic soy wax if possible, since conventional soy is notoriously pesticide-intensive. Also be sure to choose cosmetic-grade or food grade soy wax, not one designed for candle making or crafts only.

  • Candelilla wax is more firm than beeswax, so use slightly less candelilla in your salve recipe (try 1 part candelilla wax to 5 or 6 parts oil). Note that products made with candelilla are more prone to cracking. It also has a very high melting point, so will likely be the last ingredient to melt in your pot.

  • Carnauba wax is the firmest of them all, and even more prone to cracking. Try 1 part carnauba wax for every 6 to 8 parts oil to create a smooth, spreadable salve and a 1:5 ratio for a firmer balm. Carnauba makes the best salve or balm texture when combined with plant-based butters like shea or cocoa butter. 



Optional Ingredients


Herb-infused oil


Plain, high-quality carrier oils like sweet almond, olive or jojoba oil will nourish and moisturize skin on their own. However, you could also infuse dried herbs in oil before making salve to combine the healing and therapeutic benefits of both! I love incorporating homegrown goodies in our herbal salves.

Dried lavender, chamomile, rosemary, calendula, hemp, comfrey, yarrow, chickweed, rosehips or rose petals are a few excellent choices – and all bring their own unique properties to the herbal salve or balm! If you’re new to herbs and want to learn more about the uses and benefits of each one, I highly recommend this Beginner’s Guide to Medicinal Herbs by Rosemary Gladstar.

To make herb-infused oils, you can either passively steep dry herbs in oil for several weeks (the no-heat method) or lightly heat fresh or dried herbs in oil on the stovetop or in a crockpot for more immediate results. I prefer the slow no-heat method, which best preserves the medicinal compounds in the herbs but does take more patience and planning in advance. 

Learn how to make herbal oils here. After straining, you can use the herb-infused oil alone in a balm or salve recipe, or in addition to another plain carrier oil (as long as you maintain the recommended wax-to-oil ratio). 


An herbal oil infusion inside a pint sized mason jar contains chamomile flowers, calendula flowers, and rose petals.
Jojoba and argan oil infused with dried calendula, rosehips, chamomile and rose petals
A large mason jar is half full of dried chickweed and half full of dried calendula flowers. They are infusing in oil before being used to make a healing salve.
Sweet almond oil infused with dried calendula and chickweed, which will be used to make our Skin Calm Balm
A fine mesh strainer is perched over a large metal bowl. Inside the strainer is a nut milk bag which contains dried chickweed and calendula flowers that have been strained out of the herbal oil to make salve with.
After passively infusing for a month, the herbal oil is ready to strain and use in salve (shown in a reusable nutmilk bag here).


Butters: Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, and Mango Butter


Plant-based butters can make salves and balms extra smooth, creamy, and nourishing! However, using too much can negatively influence the consistency of your finished product, such as making it too soft, grainy, or crack as it dries. Using the basic salve recipe I shared above, start with just a small amount of butter (about 1 or 2 tablespoons butter per cup of oil) and then experiment and adjust as needed. 


  • Shea butter is highly moisturizing and rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and polyphenols. Studies confirm that shea butter has potent anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antioxidant properties. It also helps with skin barrier repair. Shea butter has a high melting point, so it may be the last to completely melt in your double-boiler.

  • Cocoa butter is a rich moisturizer that replenishes the skin’s natural protective barrier, sealing in long-lasting moisture. Like shea butter, cocoa butter is loaded with fatty acids, minerals, polyphenols and antioxidants. When used in salves and balms, cocoa butter also tends to absorb into skin nicely rather than feeling greasy.

  • Mango butter contains similar good fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals that shea and cocoa butter provide. Yet Mango butter is incredibly high in Vitamin C – a powerful antioxidant in skincare that helps to stimulate collagen production, and prevent or correct sun damage and premature aging. It’s also highly hydrating!


A birds eye view of three white bowls of varying size. The largest bowl contains some type of oil, another smaller bowl contains beeswax pastilles while the final bowl contains cocoa butter wafers. A small bottle of essential oil and a couple cocoa butter wafers garnish the three bowls.
We love to add cocoa butter to our homemade lip balm recipe. In addition to the wonderful moisture, it smells absolutely delicious!


Vitamin E Oil


I often like to add vitamin E oil to my homemade salves and lip balm, just for a little extra oomph of goodness. With high levels of antioxidants and the ability to both protect skin and ameliorate a wide variety of skin issues, Vitamin E is a known powerhouse in natural skincare and cosmetics. Like essential oils, pure Vitamin E oil is highly concentrated. A little goes a long way! A salve or balm recipe with no more than 0.5% to 1% vitamin E oil is plenty (about ½ tsp of vitamin E oil per cup of oil). 


Essential Oils


Essential oils (EOs) can bring a lot to a homemade salve or balm. Obviously, essential oils smell nice! Most natural herb-infused oils don’t have much of an aroma, so adding a few drops of essential oils can really elevate the final product. 

Essential oils also offer unique therapeutic benefits when used topically. For instance, chamomile and lavender essential oils are excellent at calming nerves and skin issues, while refreshing peppermint and eucalyptus oils are uplifting, antibacterial, and can help clear sinuses. Learn more about each of their benefits here.


Essential oil precautions


It’s important to remember that essential oils are very concentrated and must be thoroughly diluted before they’re safe to use directly on skin. The recommended maximum concentration or dilution rate for most EOs is 2-3%, or about 1 tsp (100 drops) of essential oils per cup of regular oil for adults, and often even less for kiddos.

However, remember that’s the maximum recommendation – and would result in a very strongly scented salve or balm! We prefer more natural, mellow products and usually use a quarter of that, or less. 

Avoid using phytotoxic essential oils in topical salves and balms, including lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, lime, and bitter orange – they can cause skin to burn easily in the sun. (Sweet orange is not phytotoxic). Strong amounts of “hot” oils like cinnamon, lemongrass, clove, oregano, and cassia may be irritating for those with sensitive skin.

Also note that most essential oils are toxic to pets, with the exception of lavender, frankincense, chamomile, and rosemary.


An array of many essential oils made by Plant Therapy that are laying down with their labels facing upwards. A few dried flowers and dried orange slice adorn the area. We like to use Plant Therapy essential oils when we make salve.
Since essential oils are so highly concentrated (including whatever was on the plant material – like pesticides!), we only use high-quality certified organic oils from Plant Therapy.


Which essential oils are best for salve and balm?


Common essential oils used in homemade salves and balms include: lavender, sweet orange, roman chamomile, peppermint, tea tree, eucalyptus, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, jasmine, rose, lemongrass, clary sage, frankincense, ylang ylang, vanilla, and rosemary. Use one scent alone, or try mixing two or three. 

Tip: Balance sweet, woody, or floral scents with a more bright, herbaceous or citrusy scent, such as lavender + eucalyptus or rosemary, chamomile + lemongrass, sandalwood or cedarwood + peppermint, or jasmine + sweet orange. 

Working with essential oils and scenting salves is a craft of its own! It can take some experimentation to find the right amount and blend of oils to meet your desired results. Therefore, I suggest to start small: with a small batch of salve, and a light amount of just one or two types of essential oils. Gradually adjust as needed.


A hand is holding two salve tins, each one is a product made by Homestead and Chill, a lavender salve and a calendula salve. Below in the background are two wicker baskets, one is full of fresh calendula flowers while the other is full of fresh lavender flowers with a few chamomile flowers as well.
Lavender and chamomile essential oils are two of our favorites to add to salve, but we use a very, very light amount!


Instructions to Make a Homemade Salve or Balm


Last but not least, here is how to make a salve or balm in 6 easy steps. Have all your supplies clean and ready before starting. You’ll want to work fairly quick once the mixture melts!

  1. Measure and/or weigh the oil, wax, and optional butter and add it to the top portion of a double boiler. Be sure to put water in the lower portion of the double boiler; enough so the bottom of the top pan is resting in water.

  2. Heat the ingredients over medium-high heat until all of the ingredients are completely melted and combined. Stir occasionally. Do not cover the pot while heating; any condensation (water) can negatively impact the salve or balm.

  3. Turn off the stove and remove from heat before adding essential oils and/or vitamin E oil. Essential oils are very volatile by nature, and thus will quickly dissipate on high heat.

  4. While it’s still hot, carefully pour the liquid into storage containers of choice. If you have one handy, it can be easiest to transfer the melted mixture into a heat-safe pitcher, confectionery funnel, or glass measuring cup with pour spout (in batches if needed) and then use that to fill the containers.

  5. If the mixture starts to harden before you’re finished pouring, simply return to heat to re-melt.

  6. Once the balm or salve has completely cooled and hardened, add lids or caps and labels. This will take several hours or potentially overnight.


A large double boiler full of oil, beeswax, and shea butter. Some of the shea butter and beeswax pastilles have yet to fully melt and are floating on the top.
Our large double boiler. Since we sell salves and balms in our shop, we need to make a lot at once!
Many metal tins lined up in rows with many columns, the salve is still setting, some of them are still in a liquid state. Make salve to soothe itchy or dry skin.
We use a confectionery funnel to a fill large number of salve tins
A birds eye view of many metal tins full of balm laid out with tins left to right and up and down from each tin.
All dry, solid, and ready for lids and labels!


Clean Up Tips


For the easiest clean up, immediately wipe the pan out with a paper towel. If the wax residue starts to harden inside, lightly heat the pan to help it melt once again. Otherwise, it should all wash right out with hot soapy water. We also repurpose the already-hot water from the bottom of the double-boiler to wash the top portion.


And that’s a wrap!


I hope you enjoyed this lesson on how to make homemade salves and balms, and feel prepared and empowered to do so. Like I said, the options are truly endless once you get your feet wet and feel confident to get creative. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and leave a review once you give it a try! Thanks for tuning in today.


If you’re interested in straightforward guides to make specific salves and other natural products, check out these related tutorials:


Print

Simple Homemade Salve or Balm Recipe (Flexible and Customizable)

Learn how to make salve or balms with this simple flexible recipe, including oil and wax options, herb-infused oil, essential oils, butters and more. Once you know the basics, the options to be creative are endless!
Keyword balm recipe, homemade balm, homemade salve, how to make salve, salve recipe
Cook Time 20 minutes

Equipment

  • Double boiler pot
  • Measuring cups and/or kitchen scale
  • Storage containers (tins, glass jars, or lip balm tubes)
  • Heat-safe pitcher, glass measuring cup with pour spout, or confectionery funnel

Ingredients

  • 1 cup herbal oil or plan natural oil of choice e.g. jojoba oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, etc or homemade herb-infused oil
  • 1/4 cup beeswax pastilles or pellets
  • 1-2 Tbsp (optional) shea butter, cocoa butter, or mango butter
  • 1 tsp (optional) essential oils up to 1 tsp or 100 drops maximum for safety, but a strongly scented salve). We use 1/4-1/2 tsp or less
  • 1/2 tsp (optional) vitamin E oil

Instructions

  • Measure and/or weigh the oil, wax, and optional butter and add it to the top portion of a double boiler. Be sure to put water in the lower portion of the double boiler; enough so the bottom of the top pan is resting in water.
  • Heat the ingredients over medium-high heat until all of the ingredients are completely melted and combined. Stir occasionally. Do not cover the pot while heating; any condensation (water) can negatively impact the salve or balm.
  • Remove from heat before adding essential oils and/or vitamin E oil.
  • While it’s still hot, carefully pour the liquid into storage containers of choice. It may be easiest to transfer the melted mixture into a heat-safe pitcher, confectionery funnel, or glass measuring cup with pour spout (in batches if needed) and then use that to fill the containers.
  • If the mixture starts to harden before you’re finished pouring, simply return to heat to re-melt.
  • Once the balm or salve has completely cooled and hardened, add lids or caps and labels. This will take several hours or potentially overnight.



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Calming Chamomile: How to Grow, Harvest, Dry and Use Chamomile https://homesteadandchill.com/chamomile-grow-harvest-dry-use/ https://homesteadandchill.com/chamomile-grow-harvest-dry-use/#comments Wed, 15 Feb 2023 17:01:43 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2055465 Chamomile is a wonderful medicinal herb and companion plant for your garden! Come learn how to grow chamomile from seed or seedlings - including the various types, medicinal benefits, and how to harvest, dry, and use it for tea, balms and more.

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Chamomile is a wonderful little herb. I adore its dainty button flowers, feathery leaves, enchanting sweet musky aroma, and magical medicinal properties – with the ability to calm both inside and out. Even better, it’s easy to grow chamomile in a wide range of climates and gardens, including in containers. It’s one of the most popular herbs for a reason!

Read along to learn how to grow chamomile. We’ll explore the various types of chamomile, its medicinal benefits, how to start from seed or seedlings, tips on how to harvest and dry chamomile, pest control, and plenty of ideas for how to use it! We love to use our homegrown chamomile to make tea, face oil, salves, and more. As a companion plant, chamomile attracts a wide variety of pollinators and beneficial insects to your garden too.



Types of Chamomile 


There are many different types of chamomile including Roman, German, Egyptian, and some lesser-known types like Yellow, Dyer’s, Moroccan, and Wild Chamomile. Within each classification, there may be several unique cultivars too! For example, some of our favorite German chamomile varieties include Zloty Lan, Bodegold, and this classic German Chamomile.

Roman, German and Egyptian chamomile are the most common and esteemed types of chamomile used for tea, natural healing remedies, and home gardens. They all offer similar soothing medicinal benefits (known to calm skin, inflammation, digestion and nerves) though they have a few notable differences too, explained below. 


DeannaCat is touching a number of blooming flower spikes that are reaching up from the raised garden bed in which they are growing. A profuse number of flowers with yellow centers and white petals along with a few blue bachelor's button flowers. An artichoke plant is growing in the background next to the other two plants.
German chamomile in our garden


What’s the difference between Roman and German chamomile?


Roman chamomile has a light, fresh, sweet apple-like aroma, while German chamomile smells more grassy, like very sweet straw. German chamomile flowers are known to have stronger, more potent aromatic essential oils than their Roman counterparts. While both are used in tea, Roman chamomile has the propensity to get bitter while German chamomile tastes herbaceous and sweet with little-to-no bitterness. 


When it comes to growing chamomile at home, it’s also important to know how the different types grow:

  • Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile, also known as English chamomile) is a low-growing, sprawling perennial herb. Meaning it will continue to grow in your garden for several years, even after it dies back in the winter. Roman chamomile grows back each year via spreading rhizomes in the soil. Considered a short-lived perennial, many gardeners grow roman chamomile as an annual or for just a couple seasons before starting new plants.

  • German chamomile (Matricaria Recutita) is an annual herb, so you’ll need to plant new seeds or seedlings each spring. However, German chamomile may self-seed and grow new plants on its own too! German chamomile plants grow much taller, bloom more profusely, and are less hardy than Roman chamomile.


A graphic containing a chart describing the differences between Roman and German chamomile. The name, scent, flavor, growth, and medicinal benefits are all laid out for each variety.
A large and profusely flowering chamomile plant is jutting out over the edge of a raised garden bed with many yellow and white flowers. A large bachelor's button plant with dark blue flowers is growing just beyond, reaching even greater in height.
A large German chamomile plant leaning over the side of our raised garden bed.
A large and bushy plant is growing in the ground along a rock border. A lavender and lantana plant are growing nearby.
Short, sprawling, dense Roman chamomile – coming back to life after winter (before blooming).


Benefits of Chamomile


Chamomile is among the most popular and widely-used herbs in natural medicine throughout history and modern times – and for good reason! Its vast healing benefits have been confirmed by dozens of studies throughout the years. This comprehensive review explores chamomile’s ability to help treat everything from eczema and rashes to inflammation and indigestion. 

The specific flavonoids and terpenes found in chamomile flowers contribute to its medicinal powers. For instance, a natural blue oil called chamazulene is only found in chamomile, and is shown to have potent anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties. German chamomile contains more chamazulene, giving its pure essential oil that distinctive blue color.


Topical use

If you look closely, you’ll regularly find chamomile as a key ingredient in personal care products like face serums, lotions, shampoos, and more. That’s because it works absolute wonders for the skin! Chamomile is known to soothe redness, irritation, swelling, and itching associated with a variety of skin conditions, including but not limited to eczema, psoriasis, acne, allergies, minor wounds, rashes, and burns.


Internal use

Internally, chamomile exudes the same soothing anti-inflammatory benefits. Taken as tea, a tincture, or other supplement form, chamomile can calm the nervous system, reduce insomnia and anxiety, stimulate the immune system, ease inflammation and spasms in the digestive system, lessen symptoms of hay fever, and flush out toxins.


Two half gallon mason jars sit side by side atop a dark walnut table, they are filled to the top with half chamomile flowers and half calendula flowers, all infusing in carrier oil.  A large fiddle leaf fig plant is in the background as well as a large painting of a cypress tree jutting out over a coast line.
Infusing homegrown dried chamomile and calendula in cold-pressed organic jojoba oil; making nourishing and soothing face oil for our shop.


What kind of chamomile is best for tea?


Most tea connoisseurs would likely argue that German chamomile is the best type for tea: it has the highest levels of aromatic medicinal compounds and is also least likely to taste bitter. However, Roman and Egyptian chamomile are often used in tea too! All three offer the calming benefits and flavors quintessential to chamomile.


A glass mug is half full of water with a number of flowers steeping in the water which has turned a golden straw yellow color. A number of fresh flowers with golden yolk colored centers and white petals garnish the area around the mug.


HOW TO GROW CHAMOMILE


To grow chamomile at home, you can either start from seed or pick up seedlings at your local nursery. We do a bit of both! To grow chamomile from seed, I typically like to start seeds indoors and then transplant seedlings out once the weather is warm enough. Chamomile takes awhile to germinate and the seedlings grow fairly slow, so starting indoors gives us a good head start on the growing season. However, you can directly sow chamomile seeds outdoors too!


Growing chamomile from seed


  • Start chamomile seeds indoors 6 weeks before your last spring frost date. Direct-sow chamomile seeds outdoors after the last spring frost has passed, once the soil temperature reaches 55 to 60°F.

  • Fill your seed-starting containers of choice with a light, fluffy, sterile seed starting mix.

  • Lightly press the tiny chamomile seeds into the surface of the soil, or sprinkle a very light dusting of seedling soil over them (no more than ⅛”). Otherwise, do not bury the seeds.

  • Chamomile seeds need light to germinate, so put your indoor seed starting trays under a grow light right away.

  • They also sprout most readily in moderately warm soil, around 65-70°F. Depending on the temperature of your growing space, a seedling heat mat may come in handy.

  • It is essential to keep the soil and seeds moist (not soggy) during germination. Cover your seedling trays with a clear humidity dome to help keep in moisture until they sprout, then remove the covers. Use a spray bottle to gently mist the top of the soil if it starts to dry out.

  • Chamomile seeds germinate slowly (up to 14 days or longer), so be patient!

  • To promote quick and healthy growth, thin chamomile seedlings down to just one or two plants per cell or container within a few weeks of sprouting. Crowded seedlings grow more slowly or may get stunted as they compete for water, root space, nutrients and airflow.

  • See our favorite seed starting supplies here. For more details and tips on successfully starting seeds indoors, check out this step-by-step guide!



A tray of chamomile seedlings sitting under LED grow lights.
Chamomile seedlings on our LED grow light seed starting shelf.
A 6 cell pack of tender seedlings is shown with a pair or small scissors that are positioned next to one of the seedlings. The scissors will be used to thin the amount of seedlings in each cell from 3-4 to 1 seedling per cell.
I always sow chamomile seeds fairly heavily, sprinkling about 8-12 tiny seeds per cell. Sometimes they don’t germinate very well, so this ensures I get at least a few healthy seedlings per cell. However, sometimes they germinate really well (like these German chamomile seeds from High Mowing did!) so then I have to go back and thin them out. I like to snip out extra seedlings at their base, leaving just a couple per cell.
A 6 cell seedling pack is held aloft full of tender chamomile seedlings. Below is a seedling tray full of more chamomile seedlings in a number of 6 cell seedling packs.
On the other hand, these Zloty Lan seeds only sprouted a few seedlings per cell, despite sowing just as many seeds as the previous photo (I have not thinned these). Good thing I sowed plenty of seeds!
DeannaCat is holding a seedling from a nursery in a round plastic pot. Beyond is a raised garden bed full of herbs such as thyme, sage, and lemon verbena.
A larger chamomile seedling we picked up at the local nursery. It doesn’t say German, but I can tell by the tall lanky structure that it is.


When to plant chamomile outside


Plant chamomile outside in the garden in early spring. Whether you grow chamomile from seed or buy nursery starts, wait to transplant seedlings outside until after the last spring frost has passed. If an unexpected late frost occurs, plan to protect the young tender seedlings to prevent damage – such as with a cloche or hoops and frost cover. Yet don’t wait too long! It’s important for chamomile to get established in the garden before hot weather arrives. Mature plants with deep roots are more tolerant of heat.


Chamomile growing requirements 


  • Sun: Both German and Roman chamomile grow best in full sun in most regions, though Roman chamomile is more tolerant of partial shade. Both varieties will appreciate some afternoon shade in very hot climates or southern regions.

  • Soil: Chamomile isn’t picky about soil quality. In fact, chamomile seems to grow best in poorer quality soil – so fertilizer shouldn’t be necessary. However, it’s important that the soil is well-draining since chamomile doesn’t like wet feet. Average potting soil, sandy soil amended with a little compost, or sandy loam soil works great. Amend clay soil with horticultural sand and/or potting soil to increase drainage.

  • Water:  While chamomile plants are young, provide moderate water and maintain damp soil (not soggy) at all times. Yet as it matures, established chamomile plants become fairly drought-tolerant and prefer the soil to dry out ever-so-slightly between watering. Don’t let the soil get too dry during hot conditions though.

  • Spacing and size: Space German chamomile plants about 6 to 8 inches apart, and Roman chamomile 8 to 12 inches. German chamomile grows 24 to 36 inches tall, though some varieties grow taller or shorter. German chamomile is also usually quite narrow and spindly, and often flopping over unless additional support is provided. In contrast, Roman chamomile plants grow full and dense but only a few inches tall (3 to 6 inches) and sprawl out across 12 inches or wider. 


A chamomile plant is growing in a raised bed, it contains a large number of flowers with fat yellow centers and white petals.  An artichoke plant, cosmos and a bachelor's button is growing in the background.


How much chamomile to grow? 


Chamomile flowers are tiny, and even smaller once they’re dry! Therefore, it can take a good amount of dried flowers to make just one cup of tea, and significantly more to create infused oils, salves, or other homemade goodies you may have in mind. (That’s why chamomile products are often quite expensive!) 

A few chamomile plants will provide the average hobby gardener with a decent amount of chamomile to enjoy, though more plants will enable you to harvest and preserve plenty for storage, projects, and prolonged use. If you only have space for one or two chamomile plants, choose larger chamomile varieties that will provide bountiful flowers – like Zloty Lan.


Is chamomile frost hardy?


German chamomile is less hardy than Roman chamomile. Established German chamomile plants should be able to tolerate a light frost (ours do!) but likely would not survive a hard freeze. On the other hand, Roman chamomile also dies back during freezing winter conditions, but the roots and rhizomes will survive and regrow once the weather warms up again in spring. Provide mulch around the base of the plants to insulate and protect the roots from freezing conditions. Young plants of both varieties are more susceptible to frost damage than mature plants.


Chamomile pests and diseases


Chamomile is inflicted by very few pests or diseases. Instead, it attracts a number of good insects including bees, beneficial wasps, hover flies, and ladybugs! Aphids are the most common pest insect to attack chamomile, and are especially attracted to the tender new growth tips. Aphids cause damage by piercing and sucking on leaves and stems, taking away vital nutrients and moisture. Plus, you probably don’t want aphids all up in your chamomile tea!

Thankfully, aphids are fairly easy to control. First, try blasting them off with a firm stream of water from the hose (supporting the plant with your other hand). If that doesn’t work, use homemade organic soap spray to kill them on contact, and then wash it off afterwards to remove the soapy residue. I recommend doing this when the plant isn’t full of flowers you wish to harvest, such as before the plant starts blooming or right after a thorough harvest. Learn more about organic aphid control here, including our DIY soap spray recipe.

Sometimes our chamomile has some other really tiny bugs on it (smaller than aphids) but they usually “abandon ship” and leave the flowers on their own once harvested.


A spray bottle is pointed directly at a milkweed plant that has a few stems that are covered in orange aphids.
I don’t have any photos of aphids on chamomile, but here they are on a milkweed plant (about to get blasted with soap spray). Aphids may be black, grey, orange, red, green, or white.


Growing chamomile in containers


To grow chamomile in a container, choose a pot, fabric grow bag, or other container that is at least 10 inches wide and deep. 12”x12” is ideal. Most importantly, ensure the pot has a drainage hole.  Fill the container with a well-draining potting soil or container soil. Place the pot in a sunny location. Chamomile grown in containers will likely need more frequent water than plants in the ground or raised beds, but still prefers moderately damp to slightly dry soil over constant moisture.


When and how to harvest chamomile


It’s easy to harvest chamomile: simply pluck the small daisy-like flowers off the top of their stems between your fingers. They snap right off with a fun little pop! A specialized picking rake makes harvesting chamomile a breeze, especially if you’re growing a large quantity.

Don’t be shy about harvesting chamomile. The more flowers you harvest, the more will grow! Chamomile will continue to bloom from spring through fall, and even during winter in mild frost-free climates. Though they’ve slowed down a bit, we’re still harvesting chamomile now (in February) from plants we put out last fall.

For the highest quality essential oil content and best flavor for tea, harvest chamomile flowers fairly young – soon after the flowers have fully opened, but before the centers become extra large and the petals droop backwards. Most herbalists prefer to harvest chamomile in the morning hours, before the sun and heat of the day has a chance to dissipate the delicate essential oils. 


DeannaCat's outstretched hand holding a number of flowers with yellow centers and white petals. In the background are plants growing in a raised bed.
Off with their heads!
A wicker basket is full of freshly harvest chamomile flowers. Beyond in the background are perennial plants growing, purple verbena, lavender, and a few plants with yellow flowers.


How to dry and store chamomile after harvest


You can either dry chamomile flowers in a food dehydrator or let them passively air dry. To avoid adding unnecessary moisture and prolong drying time (or increase risk of mold), we do not wash our chamomile post-harvest.

To air dry chamomile, spread the flowers out in a single layer on a screen, in an airy basket, or on an herb drying rack in a warm, dry, arid location. Add a fan to increase air circulation if needed. If not well-spaced or if the air is too humid, the flowers may mold before they can fully dry. 

A food dehydrator is a great way to dry chamomile, especially for long-term storage or if you intend to make oil infusions, tinctures, or salves. (Using 100% dry flowers is crucial for oils or salves since any leftover moisture in the flowers can make the final product mold or spoil more easily). Yet it’s best to dry chamomile on a very low temperature setting to retain its beneficial and medicinal compounds. We set our dehydrator to 110°F or below (or use the lowest setting available) for 24 hours or longer. Warmer temperatures will make the flowers dry faster, though I don’t recommend drying chamomile in the oven. 

Once fully dry, store dried chamomile in an airtight container (e.g. glass container with a lid) in a cool, dry, dark location. There, it will retain its aroma, flavor, and beneficial properties for up to one year.


A hand is holding dehydrator try full of fresh flowers with yellow centers and white petals.
Chamomile headed for the dehydrator.
An Excalibur dehydrator with trays full of fresh calendula and chamomile flowers, the bottom tray contain mostly fresh chamomile flowers with a few calendula flowers sharing the tray.
We use Excalibur dehydrators for all our drying needs. I love that they have a low temp “living foods” setting that retains all the beneficial compounds in our herbs, along with the fact that they’re BPA-free, efficient, made in the US, and dry things evenly.


8 Ways to Use Homegrown Chamomile 


There are dozens of fun ways to use chamomile, both fresh and dried. Here are some ideas:

  1. The edible flowers can be used fresh (or dried) to garnish drinks, salads, desserts, or added to ice cubes.

  2. Use fresh or dried chamomile to make hot tea or sun tea! Learn how to safely make herbal sun tea with fresh herbs here. For hot tea, use about 1 tablespoon of dried chamomile per cup of hot water and allow it to steep for 5 to 8 minutes. When using fresh chamomile in tea, use two or three tablespoons per cup of water instead. I love to use this stainless steel infuser to make a single mug of tea, or this adorable loose-leaf glass teapot for tea for two.

  3. Steep dry chamomile flowers in an oil of choice (e.g. olive oil, jojoba oil, or sweet almond oil) to create chamomile-infused oil. Then you can use the chamomile oil as a face, body, or massage oil. Or, as a culinary oil if you choose an edible carrier oil. Learn more about making herb-infused oils here, including carrier oil options.

  4. Or, use chamomile-infused oil as an ingredient to create homemade skincare products like healing salves or balms, lip balm, body butter, soap, lotion and more.

  5. Add dry chamomile flowers to sachets of potpourri or in stovetop potpourri.

  6. Make a chamomile hydrosol to use as a naturally-scented room spray or linen spray.

  7. Mix dried chamomile flowers in homemade bath salt blends. Check out our DIY natural bath salts recipe here!

  8. For stronger internal use, create a chamomile tincture.


A large mason jar has fresh lemon verbena, mint, and other flowers soaking in water for a batch of sun tea.
Garden sun tea with chamomile, lemon verbena, and mint.
An amber dropper bottle with a Homestead and Chill "Face & Body Oil" label. Surrounding the bottle are numerous fresh calendula and chamomile flowers.
Our popular Chamomile Calendula Face and Body Oil. It deeply moisturizes skin, reduces redness and irritation, but doesn’t leave you feeling greasy.


And that concludes this lesson on how to grow chamomile.


I hope this article provided you with everything you need to know to successfully grow chamomile at home. And, that you feel excited to do so now! Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Also please consider pinning or sharing this article if you found it useful. Enjoy your chamomile bounty!


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Chickweed: How to Identify, Harvest, Dry and Use Stellaria Media https://homesteadandchill.com/chickweed-identify-harvest-dry-use/ https://homesteadandchill.com/chickweed-identify-harvest-dry-use/#comments Wed, 01 Feb 2023 18:53:52 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2055201 Let's talk about chickweed - a nutritious, edible, and medicinal herb! It's especially good at soothing itching, rashes, and other skin issues. Come learn how to identify, harvest, dry and use chickweed at home.

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Come learn all about chickweed: a special and nutritious herb. This article will explore how to identify and harvest chickweed, the various medicinal benefits it offers, potential side effects, and several ways to dry and use it. Chances are, it might be growing right in your backyard or neighborhood already!

Common chickweed is popular among foragers, homesteaders, herbalists, and native communities alike. It is especially useful for natural skincare, known to soothe rashes, itching and irritation. Growing wild at our new property, we love to use it to make healing topical salve! (See the salve tutorial here)


What is chickweed?


Common chickweed (Stellaria media) is a tender, edible, annual herb that grows during cool wet seasons. Originally native to Europe, chickweed has been naturalized and now grows throughout much of the United States, Canada, and beyond. It has been used throughout history in herbal medicine and skincare. Its tiny flowers offer nectar to elfin butterflies and other beneficial insects. 

Other common names include birdweed, chickenwort, starwort and winterweed. Note that there are several related varieties of chickweed in the Stellaria genus. With “weed” in its name, it is often misunderstood or even demonized. If you Google the term chickweed, most of the results are about how to control or kill it – rather than make good use of it!


“The only difference between a flower and a weed is a judgment.” 

Wayne Dyer


A close up of a flowering medicinal herb that is growing in the ground.


Medicinal Use and Benefits of Chickweed


Chickweed offers numerous therapeutic benefits and nutrients. Historically, it has been used by Native Americans, herbalists, and other natural medicine practitioners to treat digestive issues, blood disorders, and respiratory ailments such as colds, coughs and sore throats. It is also used as an herbal remedy for wounds and skin health.

Chickweed is cooling, drying, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal. This makes it excellent at soothing irritated skin including rashes, minor burns, eczema, psoriasis, sunburn, razor burn, insect bites, poison oak/ivy, or general itching and inflammation. Topically, chickweed can be used directly on the skin as a poultice, infused in oil, or in a salve or balm. 

When used internally (e.g. via tincture, tea, or direct consumption), the saponins and natural lechinins found in chickweed can help to alleviate inflammation, reduce mucus and congestion, and improve metabolism and digestion. In large amounts, chickweed can act as a mild laxative, diuretic, and detoxifier. 

Chickweed also contains numerous vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, including beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc. It offers especially high levels of Vitamin C, making it an important source of nutrients to prevent scurvy for early sailors and miners, much like wild Miner’s Lettuce! 

A botanical illustration of a section of chickweed, a flower bud, a blooming flower, and a seed are separate of the plant as well to enlarge the image of the specific part.
Common chickweed (Stellaria media) botanical illustration via USDA


Chickweed Identification and Characteristics


What does chickweed look like? How to identify chickweed


Common chickweed has long slender stems, dainty succulent ovate (pointed) leaves, and tiny white flowers. The flowers have 5 small petals, but they’re deeply lobed so it looks like 10 petals. Each plant sends out several long stems from a central cluster, forming a sparse or lanky rosette-shaped mound that grows 6 to 12 inches tall. 


There are 3 keys to properly identify chickweed and distinguish it from any lookalikes:


  1. Chickweed has a single strip of hairs along one side of the stem (rather than hairs all over) – much like a mohawk. The location of the hair strip rotates between nodes or joints on the stem.
  2. The succulent-but-tender stems have a stretchy central core or “bone” inside. If you gently pull a stem apart, you should be able to see the elastic inner fibers between the outer stem you just split. 
  3. When snapped or crushed, chickweed does not emit a white milky sap. If if has white sap, you have the wrong plant!


A section of a medicinal herb is pictured, along the stem, a strip of small hairs runs along one side of the stem.
Common chickweed. Note the single strip of hairs along the stem.
A section of chickweed stem has been pulled apart illustrating the white core within the stem itself. The section has a circle, superimposed on the area containing the core section.
The elastic core within a common chickweed stem.
DeannaCat holding a section of medicinal herbs growing out of the ground.
A single chickweed plant


What parts of chickweed are edible or medicinal?


Chickweed stems, leaves, and flowers are all edible and medicinal. I have not come across anything that says its roots are necessarily “bad” or toxic, though they’re typically not used or consumed. Keep in mind that consuming too much at once can cause an upset stomach for some people. 


What does chickweed taste like?


Chickweed tastes fresh, mild, grassy, and slightly sweet or floral. Some folks say the succulent leaves remind them of lettuce. Raw chickweed is often compared to the flavor of corn silks, while it’s likened to the flavor of spinach once cooked. 


DeannaCat standing in front of a wicker bowl full of medicinal herbs that is on the ground. Her green Merry People boots are visible amongst the oak leaves and green plant material.
Whether I’m out foraging, gardening, or trudging around the property, I alway wear my favorite Merry People Boots to keep my feet dry, protected and comfortable!


How does chickweed spread? 


Chickweed is an annual plant that easily spreads by seed, popping back up year after year if allowed to grow unchecked. It can also grow new root shoots from the stems. Thus, it has become a common “weed” in lawns, parks, farms, and gardens. If you plan to grow chickweed at home, make sure it’s in a spot you don’t mind if it returns!


How to control chickweed organically


Hand-weeding is one organic way to control chickweed, and is most effective if done early when the plants are small (before going to seed). The whole plant and root should be pulled up and disposed of. Plant debris left sitting on the ground may re-root and reestablish itself.  

Thick mulch (e.g. several inches of wood chips, bark, or a layer of cardboard) will also suppress its growth. Finally, white vinegar can also be used as a natural herbicide to kill chickweed. The stronger the acetic acid content, the more effective the vinegar will be.


A hand is holding a bunch of medicinal herbs that have been pulled up at the roots. The plants roots are pointing upwards while its leafy green material hangs downwards.


Foraging and Harvesting Chickweed


When and where does chickweed grow?


Common chickweed can be found growing throughout most of North America, Asia, Europe, and other parts of the world. Chickweed grows during the cool season in damp soil following rain, often in shade or partial shade under trees or along creek beds. It thrives when temperatures are between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Chickweed grows in the springtime in most places, though it can also grow during the fall. It fades and dies back in the heat of summer, but will grow right through winter in many damp frost-free climates – including foggy coastal areas.

When foraging in the wild, avoid harvesting from locations that are potentially contaminated – such as directly along roadsides, or adjacent to a commercial farm or golf course. It’s best to forage in natural areas away from frequent human activity, and rinse it well before consuming!


A map of the United States and Canada, the parts that are shaded green are the areas where chickweed is available. All of the US is green and most of Canada is as well, aside from a small portion in the northern most reaches.
Common chickweed distribution map via USDA


How to plant and grow chickweed at home


If it doesn’t naturally grow in your area to forage, you can plant chickweed in your garden. It grows easily from seed, and seed is readily available online. Seed can be directly sown or scattered outdoors or started inside and transplanted out as seedlings. 

Though you could plant it in a garden bed, I suggest growing chickweed in an underutilized shady area of the yard instead. Be sure to read the notes on spread and control below, because it is very likely to come back!


A section of the property containing many oak trees, the foreground contains many herbs and weeds that resemble a green pasture, a combination of chickweed, miner's lettuce, and stinging nettle make up the green landscape.
A swath of wild chickweed, miner’s lettuce and stinging nettle (along with other “weeds”) that happily grow under the shade of our oak trees.


When and how to harvest chickweed


Harvesting chickweed is easy and straightforward. Harvest chickweed in springtime (or whenever it is growing in your area) when it is fresh and supple, before it starts to die back. For the best results, harvest chickweed in the morning or other cool time of day as it quickly wilts in the sun and after harvest. 

To harvest chickweed, simply grab a handful and cut several inches of the tender tops with scissors or small garden shears. You could also harvest the entire plant, though then it wouldn’t re-grow for future harvests. Chickweed doesn’t hold up long in the refrigerator, so plan to use it within a couple days or dry it right away.


A handful of fresh medicinal herbs are being pulled up with one hand while the other hand uses scissors to cut the plants at their base, just above the soil line. The plants are growing around a copse of oak trees which are surrounded by the herb.
Snip snip!
A wicker bowl full of freshly harvested medicinal herbs sits atop a brick pathway.


How to Dry Chickweed


Drying chickweed is the best way to preserve it, and prepare it to make infused oil, balm or salve. You can dry chickweed either in a food dehydrator or passively air dry it. 

Using a food dehydrator ensures it will quickly and thoroughly dry, reducing risk of mold or spoilage in storage. In a dehydrator, evenly spread the plant material out on the dehydrator trays so air can circulate around it. Use a low temperature setting (95-105F) to retain its beneficial compounds and nutrients. 

To air dry chickweed, place it in a woven basket, on a screen, hung in a bunch, or on a specialized herb drying rack in a warm, dry location with good airflow. Place a fan nearby if needed to expedite drying. Let it sit until it’s completely dry, brittle and easily crumbles. Once dry, store it in an airtight container in a cool, dark location.


Fresh chickweed sitting evenly spaced on a dehydrator tray, a wicker bowl is just above it full of fresh chickweed as well.
I prefer to dry my chickweed (and everything else from our garden) in an Excalibur dehydrator. I love the “living foods” low temperature setting, timer features, and the fact that it’s made in the US, BPA-free, and very efficient.
A hand holding some dried herbs above a dehydrator tray which contains the rest of the herbs.
All crispy and dry!


Ways to Use Chickweed


Combined with a carrier oil of choice, dried chickweed can be used to make a rich and soothing infused oil. The oil can then be used on its own (e.g. as massage or body oil) or as an ingredient to make homemade chickweed salve, balm, lip balm, and more. These topical creations are ideal to have on hand when rashes, burns, or other skin irritations arise. Learn more about making herb-infused oils here, including carrier oil options. Then pop over to this tutorial for our easy chickweed salve recipe.

Raw or dried chickweed can also be used to make tea or a concentrated herbal tincture. Dried and ground, it’s also used to make capsule supplements. Check with your doctor or naturopath for guidance on internal use.

Chickweed can be eaten raw or cooked, though its tender texture makes it most palatable when raw – such as added to salads, or even blended in a smoothie. Since it tends to be stringy, it’s usually chopped up before it’s eaten. Chickweed is great with scrambled eggs, raw or lightly sautéed. You can also toss a handful into soup or stew, but do so in the last few minutes to prevent overcooking.


Chickweed for Chickens


Birds also like to eat chickweed – including chickens! It’s is a great, nutrient-rich treat or forage fodder for backyard chicken flocks. While foraging, chickens should rip the chickweed into smaller pieces on their own (as they bite at it). However, I suggest chopping up any chickweed you harvest yourself before tossing it to the chickens. Otherwise, long stringy pieces of plant material may increase the risk of impacted crop.


A pint jar full of dried chickweed that has been completely covered in a carrier oil to infuse. Surrounding the jar are many pieces of dried chickweed while beyond, there is a wicker bowl full of freshly harvest chickweed.
Dry chickweed infusing in sweet almond oil, destined to become a healing topical salve.
Learn how to make chickweed infused oil and salve here


Pretty neat little “weed”, isn’t it?


That sums up today’s lesson on common chickweed. I will be back soon with a follow-up post on how to use it to make infused oil, salve or balm! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and pin or share this post if you found it useful. Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy foraging!


You may also enjoy:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing


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2023 Spring & Summer Garden Grow List + Homestead Goals https://homesteadandchill.com/2023-spring-summer-garden-grow-list/ https://homesteadandchill.com/2023-spring-summer-garden-grow-list/#comments Wed, 11 Jan 2023 02:38:08 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2054312 Come see all the beautiful and delicious vegetable, herb and flower varieties we plan to grow in our spring and summer garden, plus hear about the exciting homestead goals and projects we have planned for 2023!

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Hey friends! Before the start of each new season, it’s become tradition that I put together a “what we’re growing” post – where I share a list of all the annual vegetable and flower varieties we plan to grow in our garden during the upcoming season. It’s a fun way for us to share new or favorite varieties with you all, narrow down our selections, get excited for spring planting, as well as document/journal for future reference! 

We plan to grow several new-to-us things this spring and summer, but there will also be many repeats on the list. So to keep things interesting, I figured I’d share more than just our “grow list” today, and will share some of the exciting homestead goals and projects we have planned for the new year too! Plus, a few reflections about our first full year here with a new garden. Isn’t that what January’s all about? I’d love to hear your 2023 garden aspirations in the comments below!


Click here to skip straight to the grow list.


Need Seeds? 


As you go through our grow list, you’ll quickly notice that almost all the varieties are from High Mowing Seeds. That’s where we get 99% of our seeds these days! High Mowing is a fantastic small certified organic seed company that offers a wide variety of quality veggie, flower and herb seeds.

Use this link + code “23DCAT10” to SAVE 10% on orders over $50 or more, now through the end of January ‘23! Using our link helps to support the work we do here at Homestead and Chill. We appreciate you using it, very much!


It's Time to Grow with High Mowing Organic Seeds


2022 Progress and Reflections


2022 was our first full year at this new property, so our main focus was getting the raised bed garden installed. And it turned out better than I ever imagined! (If you missed that project, you can see the step-by-step process here – including ground prep, materials, building raised beds, and irrigation.) We also planted dozens of pollinator plants and a handful of fruit trees. Otherwise, we spent our time enjoying the new space, continuing to learn our slightly different climate, and contemplating what to do next.

Overall, our 2022 spring and summer garden did great. Harvests were bountiful… too bountiful in some cases! Lesson learned: grow less eggplant. Lol. With 9 robust plants producing, we ended up donating SO much eggplant to our local food bank and neighbors, along with eating and preserving as much as we could. Other crops were more on the pitiful side however, like our bush beans and peppers. I’m not totally sure what was up with those! So far, our fall/winter garden is a little lackluster compared to normal too. I think we got a slightly late start, but it’s also been an exceptionally cold and wet winter here!


Fall 2021 vs Spring 2022
Our final big harvest of the 2022 summer season, before changing everything over to cool season fall crops.
Fall 2022. Crazy to think this was just a weedy dirt field this time in 2021!


2023 Homestead Goals 


Now that the raised bed garden is done, I’m itching to tackle new projects! I love the entire planning process: the daydreaming, sketching, math, list-making, sourcing supplies… and of course the reward once it’s all complete. I even love the hard physical work and construction phase, though my body often tries to convince me otherwise.


More fruit, please


In 2023, we have one large project in mind: to create a secondary orchard. With 12 trees in our existing orchard space, it’s already at maximum capacity. We have a mature apricot tree plus young apples (2), peaches (2), figs (2), a nectarine, plum, lime, orange, and persimmon… but there is still a lot of other fruit I want to grow! Pears, more stone fruit, figs, and citrus varieties, and maybe even a couple of almond trees. Macadamia nuts apparently do well in our climate too! Can you imagine? 

The area we have in mind for a secondary orchard is on a slight slope, over on the corner of our property that we refer to as “Sandy Hill”. Before we even think about planting trees, we’ll need to terrace the wild and weedy hillside in order to create a suitable, functional planting area and to reduce runoff. I think it will look really sharp too!

I’m envisioning short walls made of natural rock or stone as the terrace barriers, though that sounds like a lot of heavy lifting… We shall see. We’ll also need to install a new drip irrigation system for that area. In addition to trees, I want to plant pollinator-friendly natives and companion plants around the base of the trees like borage, comfrey, rosemary, marigolds and yarrow. And of course, mulch mulch mulch!

Since it takes many years for trees to mature and bear fruit, it’s a great idea to focus on planting trees early on when first developing a new homestead or garden. If you’re also working on a new space and are feeling overwhelmed, check out this article for guidance: How to Start a Homestead: 9 Must-Read Tips for New Homesteaders.


Related: How to Choose Fruit Trees for Your Garden, How to Plant a Tree, and Fruit Tree Chill Hours Explained


The existing orchard, after a fresh layer of mulch in spring ’22.
The existing orchard. It will be quite full in here once all these young trees grow up.
“Sandy Hill”, the site of the future second orchard – adjacent to where we already planted 4 avocado trees. Hi Badger!
The rough plan, but each tier should hold at least 3 trees, plus maybe a 4th tier. We also intend to plant some native flowering shrubs between the avocados.


Other 2023 Projects


Beyond the secondary orchard, I have several smaller projects in mind:


  • Expand the chicken run. The current run is plenty big for the three chickens we currently have, but when we eventually expand the flock, I’d like them to have more room. I’d also like to provide them with more green pasture area instead of just dirt, though that is very seasonal here. I wish our girls could free range at this property, but there are too many hawks constantly around! Learn more about raising Backyard Chickens 101 here.
  • Start a mushroom farm. Lol, maybe not a “farm” per se (just enough for personal use) but “mushroom farm” sure is fun to say! The oak trees on our property offer so much shade, so we might as well make use of it. Mushrooms are one of the few edibles that thrive in shade. Plus oak logs are some of the best wood to inoculate with shroom spores! Don’t worry, I’ll be sure to document and share that process as we go.
  • Build a larger 3-bay compost system. The existing garden area already had a modest 3-bay compost bin we’re using now (plus our worm bin of course), but it’s undersized for our needs. It’s also not large enough to build up a proper hot pile, which I love to do! Learn more about composting at home here.
  • Expand our “calendula farm” area. In addition to our raised beds, we currently grow the bulk of our calendula flowers in four 100-gallon grow bags in the pasture next to the old orchard. We need to grow a lot of calendula to keep up with the demand for our calendula salve and new face oil in our shop, so I’d like to at least double the growing space, plus improve the current irrigation system there.
  • Hang more bird houses. In an effort to create even more shelter, food sources, and places to raise young for our local birdies (all key elements of a wildlife habitat!), I have a few cute birdhouses and feeders on the way from Gardeners Supply Co. Seeing the baby quail, blue jays and crows around our property last spring was such a delight! I also need to relocate our screech owl box because we haven’t yet had any visitors there. 


An overview of the homestead
The existing chicken run (which also goes around the back of the coop, not visible here). I think I want to make a “day run” off the backside or to the left, extending into the weedy field area. It would be covered and protected from hawks, but not necessarily as predator-proof as the rest of the run and coop.


Grow List: What We’re Growing Spring & Summer 2023


Without further ado, here a full list of all the varieties we plan to grow in our spring and summer garden this year! We’ll plant a handful of cooler-season crops like leafy greens, cabbage, and root veggies next month, and then follow with tomatoes, squash, flowers, and other warm-weather crops later in spring. Don’t forget to refer to your planting calendars to figure out the best schedule for YOUR zone! 

Also, remember to read plant descriptions to choose things that suit your needs. For instance, the varieties I’m listing here do (or should) grow well in our temperate climate, and may offer natural disease resistance that we’re otherwise susceptible to here – such as powdery mildew. 

If you’re new to growing from seed, our Seed Starting 101 guide will help get you going. But there is no shame in buying started seedlings too! Learn how to pick the best seedlings at the nursery here.



Tomatoes


I’m more excited than ever for tomatoes this year! Between the warmer (less foggy) weather and a new kickass tomato trellis system, we had such a stellar tomato crop last summer! You can see the trellis system in action in this post, as well as other ways to prune and support tomatoes. As you browse the varieties below, note that we grow mostly indeterminate tomatoes (trellised) but usually grow a couple determinate varieties in large DIY tomato cages as well. 


Repeat favorites:

  • Sakura. Large 1 oz. cherry tomatoes (more like saladette) that are prolific, delicious, and resist cracking. These performed SO well for us last year! Indeterminate. 
  • Pink Boar. Beautiful, petitie (2-4 oz) wine-colored fruits with metallic green stripes. Said to perform well in challenging climates. Indeterminate. 
  • Mountain Merit. Excellent red slicing tomato with firm flesh and 8-10 oz fruit. Productive and highly disease resistant. Determinate.
  • Granadero. Large plum tomatoes 4-5 oz in size. Produces abundant and continued yields throughout the season. Offers high disease resistance. Great variety for homemade tomato sauce. Indeterminate. We may try Amish Paste (below) instead of this, or in addition to.
  • Green Zebra Tomato. 4-5 oz. fruit with sweet and tangy flavor, color has dark green stripes that yellow as it ripens. Indeterminate.


New to us:

  • Rosa de Berne. 4-8 oz. fruit that is resistant to cracking, early to mature than other larger varieties, and the flavor has a perfect balance of acidity and sweetness. Indeterminate.
  • Plum Regal Tomato. High-yielding plum paste tomato with 4 oz. fruits that are great for sauces and canning. Good natural disease resistance. Determinate.
  • CubaLibre. Abundant and round 7 oz. fruit that are similar to Cherokee Purple in appearance with less green along the shoulders. Indeterminate. (rare)
  • Valentine. A highly productive red grape tomato with firm flesh, delicious flavor and holds up well after harvest. Indeterminate.
  • Amish Paste Tomato. Large classic paste tomato with 8-12 oz. fruit, very few seeds and sweeter than most paste tomatoes. Indeterminate.


Related: Organic Tomato Grow Guide or 6 Ways to Support, Prune, and Train Tomato Plants


Our new tomato trellis system. I’ll make a dedicated post on this soon, but until then you can find more info about it under the “Florida weave” section of this article.


Summer and Winter Squash


Yep! Despite its potentially misleading name, winter squash is planted in spring and grown during the summertime – just like zucchini. It’s called winter squash because it lasts for a long time in storage post-harvest, so you can enjoy it through the winter. But it’s not frost tolerant!


Repeat favorites:

  • Dunja Zucchini. Our go-to green zucchini variety. The plants are beautiful, prolific, and naturally resistant to powdery mildew!
  • Nutterbutter Butternut. This butternut did absolutely fantastic for us last year. We harvested 28 squash (over 50 pounds) from just TWO pants! It’s described to “reliably mature in regions that have trouble ripening butternuts”.


New to Us:

  • Goldy Zucchini. Long and slender bright yellow fruit that resists greening. 
  • Green Machine Squash. A prolific classic green zucchini with exceptional disease resistance. We’ll either plant that or Stardust Zucchini – another productive zucchini variety with lightly speckled fruit.
  • Winter Sweet Squash. Pale gray-blue kabocha squash with complex flavor that improves with storage. These guys only produce 2 squash per plant, but should be fun regardless!
  • Delicata Squash. Vining plant that produces oblong striped fruit with superbly tender, sweet flesh.
  • Autumn Frost Butternut Squash. A specialty butternut with unique frosted appearance that is rich and earthy in flavor.


Psst! Have you ever had zucchini or other squash that starts to grow, but then shrivels or rots on the vine? Chances are it wasn’t properly pollinated! Learn how to easily hand pollinate squash to prevent end rot here, or visit our full Zucchini & Summer Squash grow guide


About half of the Nutterbutter butternut squash we harvested last year. The vines were so prolific!
Dunja zucchini – prolific, PM-resistant, and beautiful naturally variegated leaves.


Beans and Peas


Quick tip: soak bean and pea seeds in water for several hours before direct-sowing them outside for a speedy germination! Pop over to our bean grow guide for even more tips, and be sure to come back and try our fermented dilly bean recipe later.


  • Pole Beans: Pole beans (vining) usually take longer to grow and bear fruit than bush beans, but they produce more and over a longer season. My favorite are Northeaster Pole Beans: a long, flat, tender, early-maturing Romano variety with great texture and buttery flavor. We’re also going to try these pretty Blue Coco Pole Beans this year. 
  • Bush Beans are great for succession sowing all season long, and tucking between larger plants to maximize your growing space. In addition to classic green beans (like Provider or Jade bush beans), we’re particularly fond of beautiful purple and white Dragon Langerie, red-streaked Borlotto, tender Gold Rush Yellow Wax, and flat tender Roma type bush beans. 
  • Sugar Snap Peas are always a spring staple! If you need an easy and inexpensive trellis for growing peas, beans, or any other vining plant, pop over to our DIY trellis tutorial.


Northeaster pole beans. They stay incredibly tender and crisp, even when they’re this long!
This summer I want to trellis pole beans, peas (mostly spring) and maybe some of the butternut or melons!


Annual Flowers 


I love planting annual flowers in the raised beds amongst the veggies. They’ll add a beautiful pop of color, draw in pollinators, and some even deter pests! Learn more about companion planting here, and a full list of our top 23 plants for pollinators here.



For cultivation tips on all these beauties, see: 7 Best Easy Annual Flowers to Grow from Seed


Statice is in the foreground (perennial here) with annual cosmos, sunflowers, bachelor’s buttons and marigolds in the beds beyond.
Companion flowers everywhere
Cheerful chamomile


Melons and Cucumber


I figured I’d lump these cucurbits together. Not only are cucumbers and melon part of the same plant family, but they’re both crops that didn’t grow very well for us at the old homestead – and did great here last summer! We’re planting the varieties that did best again, and trying some new ones as well. 


Melon

  • Blacktail Mountain Watermelon. Round 6-10 pound melons with crisp, sweet flesh that does well in cool or short seasons. These grew well here last summer.
  • True Love Melon. A large, high-sugar, cantaloupe-like melon with great texture that produces later in the season. High powdery mildew resistance.
  • Sugar Baby Watermelon. Perfectly round juicy and sweet melons that weigh 6-12 lbs with solid green rind and dark red flesh. Great for short seasons.


Cucumber

  • Manny. A vining plant that produces thin-skinned 5-7 inch crisp fruit. Early maturing, high yielding, and good disease resistance.
  • Tasty Green. An Asian burpless variety that produces super long 9” fruit with thin skin and sweet flesh. Produces heavy yields. Best results when trellised.
  • Excelsior Cucumber. A pickle variety that eats well fresh with great flavor, fruit has uniformed size and shape.


A bed of Blacktail Mountain watermelon with zinnia, marigold, and calendula interplanted.
Mr. DeannaCat lookin’ mighty fine with his big melon


Eggplant and Peppers


Eggplant had been a mediocre performer for us in the past, but absolutely kicked butt last summer! We’ll grow three of the same varieties plus one new one (but fewer plants overall). On the other hand, our peppers were kinda sad last summer. We honestly don’t eat all that many hot peppers anyways, so we’ll be scaling back the amount we plant grow this year.

Eggplant

  • Little Finger. An early and productive plant that produces 3 to 6 inch slender dark purple fruit with wonderfully thin skin.
  • Ping Tung Long. An Asian variety of eggplant that produces long and slender fruit 12-14 inches long with thin skin and bright lilac color. My favorite!
  • Piccolo. Small 3-4 inch ovate (egg-shaped) fruit with stunning purple and white variegated striping. Productive variety that will bear fruit over a long season.
  • Black Beauty Eggplant. A high-yielding Italian eggplant with bell shaped 5 to 6 inch fruit that is deep purple in color. New to us this year, but a classic variety. 


Peppers

I haven’t yet narrowed down the pepper list for this season, but some of our past favorites include: Red Picnic (sweet mini bell) Black Magic jalapeños, Glow (large orange bell peppers), Aji Rico (medium-hot pepper with sweet citrus-like notes), Red Ember (a Cayenne pepper type, great for using fresh or creating powder, shishito peppers (SO good pan-blistered!) and banana peppers, which make excellent pepperoncini-style pickled peppers.


Prolific Ping Tung Long eggplant
Pretty Piccolo eggplant


Brassicas and Leafy Greens


Our winter garden is already full of brassicas right now, so we aren’t going to grow quite as many in spring. Since most brassicas appreciate cooler weather, these will get planted out in late winter to early spring here and will likely be gone by midsummer (with the exception of the kale and Swiss chard – those should stick around!)


  • Cabbage: While we have about 6 different varieties of cabbage growing right now over winter, we’re going to plant another round of just one type this spring: Expect cabbage – with dense, uniformly round green heads and  notable heat tolerance.
  • Broccoli. Belstar broccoli is a trusty broccoli variety we seem to come back to year after year. It matures fairly early and then continues to produce decent little side shoots after the main head is harvested.
  • Joi Choi Bok Choy. Our powerhouse and number 1 favorite green to grow (and one of our top crops to grow, period!) The big thick juicy stalks and open heads are perfect for cut-and-come-again or perpetual harvesting. It doesn’t love hot weather, but is far more slow-bolting than most varieties of bok choy. 
  • Lacinato kale. Dazzling Blue lacinato kale is our go-to slow-bolting variety… and it’s darn beautiful!
  • Swiss Chard. I have yet to find a chard I love more than Peppermint swiss chard (named for its candy-striped stalks, not flavor!) but are also growing this gorgeous yellow-stemmed Sunset Chard this season too. 


Expect cabbage. Check out our cabbage grow guide here!
Swiss chard and friends


Herbs


We already have many established patches of herbs that grow as perennials here, including sage, rosemary, oregano, bay laurel, lemon balm, mint, and thyme. That means the only annual herbs we’ll likely plant are basil and dill, including: 

We always grow multiple basil plants so we can stock up the freezer with enough Besto Pesto for the whole year, along with dried basil leaves for the pantry. Learn how to grow bushy basil to harvest all season long here. (Hint: pruning young seedlings and routinely cutting back established plants are key!) 


Bouquet dill umbels, ready to spice up a jar of homemade pickles!


Root Veggies


Remember, it’s best to direct sow root vegetable seeds rather than start them indoors! Root veggies don’t take kindly to transplanting. 


  • Carrots. We always grow several different varieties of carrots including Dolciva, Cosmic Purple, Naval, Scarlet Nantes, Bollin, and Bangor. Get tips on how to successfully grow carrots in our carrot grow guide. 
  • Beets grew better than ever last year! Especially Boro Beets, my new favorite variety that we’ll definitely plant again. They’re super sweet, produce excellent leafy greens, and can be harvested anywhere from 2 to 6+ inches, perfect to gradually harvest as you need them over time!
  • Potatoes. We ordered several different potato varieties (all from High Mowing) that will arrive in April. We love growing potatoes in large durable fabric grow bags, which means we can always find some space for them! Interested in growing your own spuds? Learn how we grow potatoes in containers here. 
  • Radishes – a spring staple. We’ll likely sow some egg-shaped purple Bravo daikons, attractive and reliable Pink Beauty, and juicy, mild White Daikon radishes. To learn all about growing radishes from seed to table, see this article. 


Boro beets, my new favorite variety.
Our 2022 spud harvest. This was early September, and we’re still enjoying them now in January!


Other


  • Onions. We’ve already started seeds for sweet Walla Walla, Rossa Di Milano red onions, and Calibra spanish onions (my favorite). When growing onions, it’s crucial to choose the right variety for your latitude – short day, long day, or intermediate day onions. I prefer to start from seed or seedlings rather than sets. Visit our onion grow guide for more info and tips for success.
  • Artichokes. Last year we planted several Wonder artichokes in our raised beds and in our pollinator border area, and the perennial plants are still going strong. This year, we’re also adding a purple artichoke variety! If you aren’t familiar with preparing artichokes, learn one really easy way to cook and eat them here – and then visit our artichoke grow guide and learn how to grow your own!
  • Glass Gem Popcorn is going to be so beautiful and fun! The 8-10 foot tall plants offer heavy yields of 5-8 inch ears speckled with every color of the rainbow. Who doesn’t love popcorn? Yum!


We harvested plenty of artichokes to eat ourselves, but always like to leave a few to bloom for the pollinators too. Bees absolutely love artichoke flowers. If you like this photo, you may enjoy our new pollinator-themed recycled greeting cards!
So many beautiful onions this year! We started these seeds in January, transplanted in late February, and harvested in September to cure and store (though some were ready earlier, we harvested many to enjoy throughout the summer too)
Next, I need to plot out where I’m going to plant everything! (This was part of last year’s plan.) Making a plan in advance helps SO much come transplanting day, and also helps me guide just how much seed to start of each thing. I also keep these for future reference and crop rotation. Get your own printable plot plan templates in our Free Garden Planning Toolkit here!


That’s the plan, and I’m sticking to it! (maybe, lol)


Well, that sure felt good! As overwhelming as the garden season and homestead upkeep can feel at times, putting “pen to paper” (or in this case, fingers to keyboard) certainly helps me collect my thoughts and feel more prepared and organized. This process helped me narrow down my grow list – and I hope it inspired you to create your own grow list and spring plans too! I also hope you found a few new fun varieties to try this year. Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below, and thanks for tuning in today. Cheers to a bountiful season ahead!


Other Useful Resources to Explore:



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