Chicken Health Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/chickens/chicken-health/ Organic Gardening | Real Food | Natural Health | Good Vibes Tue, 29 Aug 2023 23:29:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.2 https://homesteadandchill.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/H-75x75.png Chicken Health Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/chickens/chicken-health/ 32 32 155825441 How to Make a Chicken Dust Bath: Easy DIY Ideas https://homesteadandchill.com/diy-chicken-dust-bath/ https://homesteadandchill.com/diy-chicken-dust-bath/#comments Tue, 22 Aug 2023 23:36:44 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2065613 Dust baths are essential to keep chickens clean, happy and healthy. Come learn how to make a simple DIY dust bath, along with tips on the best ingredients to use, location, parasite and rain protection, and more. Your flock will thank you!

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Just like our showers, dust baths are an important part of a chicken’s daily routine, helping to keep them clean, healthy, and looking fresh! Come learn how to make a DIY chicken dust bath for your backyard flock. This post will cover dust bath basics and frequently asked questions, including how to set one up, the best “recipe” and ingredients to use, ideal location, rain protection, dust baths for baby chicks, and more. We’ll also explore different dust bath styles, including a simple metal tub dust bath. 


What is a chicken dust bath?


A dust bath is any area that a chicken uses to lay, fluff, and clean themselves in dirt. It can be as simple as a natural depression on the ground that the chickens dug themselves… and y’all know they’re great at that! Or, you can make a chicken dust bath to offer a designated spot for them to bathe. 


A Barred rock chicken is standing in a metal tub full of dirt which acts as a chicken dust bath. Just beyond is an old fence, a metal hoop has been formed into the shape of a heart which is hanging on the fence.
It’s hard work staying this fluffy and beautiful, but someone’s gotta do it.


Why make a chicken dust bath?


  • It’s important to create a chicken dust bath area for your birds to stay healthy, especially if your native soil isn’t suitable for bathing on its own. For instance, chickens won’t be able to create their own natural dust bathing area in clay or rocky soil, or if it’s all grass or wood chips in the chicken area. They need loose, fine, or sandy soil to bathe in instead.

  • Plus, you can add other beneficial ingredients like lime or wood ash if you make a special contained chicken dust bath like ours.

  • Another perk of creating a designated dust bath area is that maybe (just maybe) your birds will cut you some slack and do less damage or digging in other parts of your yard!


Four chickens are laying under the protection of a lemon tree, they are laying amongst gorilla hair mulch.
Our girls loved to loaf in the fluffy shredded mulch that covered most of the old backyard, but it wasn’t the best ground cover to dust bathe in.


Why do chickens take dust baths?


Dust baths are important for a number of reasons! Like many other birds, chickens of all ages use fine loose soil to keep themselves clean and healthy. By literally wallowing in the dirt, fine particles of sand and soil work their way between feathers, cleaning them in the process. Along with preening and grooming, dust baths prevent feathers from becoming too oily – keeping feathers full, fluffy, insulating, and water-resistant.

Chicken dust baths are also an important way to naturally prevent and control parasites like lice or mites. Even more, dust bathing helps keep chickens cool during hot weather… and heat stroke is common and often lethal to chickens! The very top of the soil may feel warm on a hot day, but once they fluff and shimmy down a bit deeper, they’ll find comfortably cooler soil enjoy.

Most chickens will take a good dust bath every day, or every other day. They seem to absolutely love it. When they’re finished, they get up, shake like a dog, and let the dust fly! 

Related: 10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool During Heat Waves and Hot Summer Weather


A close up image of an Easter egger chicken who is brown in color with a fluffy beard and cheeks. She is laying in dirt while two chickens in the background are pecking around, beyond that is a lemon tree full of bright yellow fruit.
Our old backyard while we were in the process of removing the lawn. The girls thought we turned the whole yard into their personal dust bath. Hennifer was in heaven!


Containers Options: What to use for a chicken dust bath?


You can make a chicken dust bath from any large, wide, shallow container. A few great examples include:

  • galvanized tubs (15 gallon or larger recommended)
  • wood or plastic crates
  • an old garden bed
  • kiddie pool or children’s sandbox
  • a giant cat litter box
  • sturdy plastic tubs or totes
  • Use big old tires or dresser drawers to create a neat up-cycled dust bath!
  • You could also lay down logs, wood boards, or large rocks on the ground to frame out a dust bath area. 


Since dust bathing is a communal activity, choose a container or area that is large enough to accommodate at least 2 or 3 members of the flock at once. In fact, you may want to set up several dust bath areas. The more, the merrier! 

It’s also best to add drainage holes to the bottom of the dust bath container so it doesn’t get too soggy when it rains. We’ll talk more about rain protection in the “location” section below.


Four chickens are lined up along a wire fence that is framed with wooden 2x2's, two large metal tubs sit just beyond along an old fence line that are used as chicken dust baths.
We started with just one dust bath for four hens, but quickly added another after seeing how much they loved them!
A metal tub is shown upside down, the bottom of the tub has a large hole cut out of the bottom and the edges of the hole have been lined with duct tape to protect from the sharp edges.
For ample drainage, I cut a big hole in the bottom of each tub with tin snips (and then lined the sharp edges with gorilla tape, just in case). Drilling several large holes would likely be adequate too.


Ingredients: What do you put in a chicken dust bath?


Sand or plain dirt can make an adequate dust bath for chickens. However, adding ingredients like lime, diatomaceous earth, and/or wood ash will offer enhanced pest protection – explained more below.


Use the following recipe to make the perfect chicken dust bath:

  • 1 part dirt: Choose soil that is fairly loose, fine, well-draining, and relatively free of debris like rocks, large sticks, or other uncomfortable obstructions. Average topsoil is a good choice. Avoid soil that has been treated with fertilizer or herbicides. Our native soil here is super sandy – perfect for chicken dust baths!
  • 1 part sand: All-purpose sand is the best choice for chicken dust baths, also known as contractor’s sand, construction sand, or multipurpose sand. It’s fine enough for a good fluffabout, but coarse enough that they won’t inhale it. You should be able to find bags of all purpose sand at your local hardware store. Avoid using play sand for dust baths; it’s too fine, more easily inhaled, and often contains toxins. You also don’t want to use sand alone, because the chickens naturally prefer dirt!


A sand bag full of sand, a bag of lime, and a blue bucket of native soil sit next to each other in front of an empty metal tub. These are the makings of a chicken dust bath. Beyond there is a large coop and run where the chickens reside.
A hand is holding a handful of dirt and sand to illustrate the texture and makeup of the contents in the metal tub that is visible below.


Optional dust bath additions


These optional dust bath ingredients help prevent common parasites, and are also great to add to the coop or nesting boxes. Add just a sprinkle of the following to your dust bath recipe:


  • LimeFirst Saturday Lime is our top-choice chicken dust bath ingredient to prevent parasites. It’s effective against poultry lice and mites, but is safe for pets, kids and the environment alike. Just a light sprinkle will do! (Note: do not use garden lime)

  • Diatomaceous earth – Also known as DE, food-grade diatomaceous earth is another popular dust bath additive for parasites and pests. However, the very fine dust can be harmful to humans and animals when inhaled. So if you do use DE, use a very small amount and in a well-ventilated area. Otherwise, just stick to lime.

  • Wood ash – I’ll never forget the day we had to re-home a chicken (long story)… The woman scooped up Darcy, held her upside down, and blasted her with a heaping handful of wood ash – with love! Like DE and lime, wood ash smothers pest insects like lice, ticks, mites, and fleas. So if you generate a lot of wood ash at home, feel free to toss some in the chicken dust bath!

  • Dried Herbs – Many herbs also deter pest insects, including lavender, peppermint, lemongrass and more. Plus, they smell nice! Spoil your chickens with a handful of nesting box herbs in their dust bath. 


Note: It’s best to avoid DE, lime or wood ash in dust baths for baby chicks, but using dried herbs is fine!

A metal tub is full of dirt and sand with a sprinkle of lime on top which will be mixed into the soil and sand. The bag of lime sits just outside the tub to illustrate the brand of lime used.



Where to locate a chicken dust bath?


  • Sun or Shade? Chickens like options! We found that our girls often like to stretch out and dust bathe in the sun, but also like the comfort of shade on warmer days. So, we set up dust baths in several locations in our yard and run.

  • Protection. Chickens usually feel most secure to relax when they’re lounging under cover, such as under their coop or under the canopy of trees or shrubs. We have some dust baths out in the open sun, and one in a shadier corner of their run.

  • Rain. In addition to adding drainage holes to your chicken dust bath container, consider further rain protection if you live in a wet climate. For instance, by locating the dust bath under the coop or other sheltered location. You could also build a short roof over the dust bath area, such as with a simple wood frame with a sheet of corrugated rooting (metal, fiberglass or plastic) on top. We also find that stirring and fluffing the dust bath soil with a shovel after heavy rain helps it dry out faster.


A Barred rock chicken which is black and white in color with a large red comb is sitting inside a metal tub full of dirt which is acting as a chicken dust bath. Two other chickens pick around the outside area along an old fence.
Our old homestead, the girls spent most of their day free-ranging the backyard, so we put two dust baths in an area they seemed to enjoy sunbathing and lounging the most.
A long and narrow chicken run made of 2x4's and hardware cloth is featured with a small coop attached to the far end. On the opposite end there are 2x4's being used as a roost by a chicken and a dead tree that is secured as part of the structure in which one of the chickens is roosting on a branch. Below there is a metal tub filled with dirt and two chickens are standing around the outside of the tub. The floor of the run is covered in straw.
In addition to the ones in the yard, we also put a dust bath in their protected run too.


Chicken dust bath maintenance


Dust baths are pretty low maintenance. However, you may want to periodically check the dust bath to remove poop, sticks, or other undesirables from the area. The container may also get low over time, as the chickens fling the dirt out, or walk away with it in their feathers! Top off with more soil and sand as needed. Finally, add a fresh handful of lime, DE, wood ash, and/or herbs once every month or two.


Do baby chicks need dust baths?


Yes, baby chicks and young pullets like to take dust baths too! In fact, you’ll often see them laying and fluffing around in their brooder pine shavings – simulating a dust bath. Create a mini dust bath for chicks inside their brooder by filling a small, wide, shallow container with sand and/or fine dry soil. Any container or tray that’s short enough for them to easily climb in and out of will do, such as a cardboard shoebox lid. Don’t add lime, DE, or other additions though. Chicks are sensitive at this stage! Learn more about caring for baby chicks here.


A two part image collage, the first image shows a close up image from above of three baby chicks playing in a chicken dust bath, a tannish blonde and a black chick are both inside the dirt bath while a lighter tan chick is peaking her head inside from outside the box. The second image shows the scene from ground level, all three chicks are inside the bath, picking around mostly while one of them is standing tall, staring straight at the camera.
My good friend Crystal’s (@wholefedhomestead) newest chicks enjoying their cute little brooder dust bath.


And that’s the dirt on chicken dust baths.


Well, did you learn something new? I hope you found this article to be useful and informative. If so, please spread the chicken love by pinning or sharing this post! Also feel free to ask any questions you have in the comments below. Otherwise, have fun putting together your new dust bath space. I’m sure your flock will want to help supervise, and will be very grateful!


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Chickens Eating Eggs? 9 Ways to Prevent or Stop It https://homesteadandchill.com/stop-chickens-eating-eggs/ https://homesteadandchill.com/stop-chickens-eating-eggs/#comments Wed, 23 Sep 2020 18:29:21 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=1023203 Once a chicken starts eating eggs, it can be a very bad and difficult habit to break! Egg-eating can happen out of boredom, but could also be a sign of a nutritional deficiency. Come learn 9 ways to prevent or stop chickens from eating eggs.

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Are your chickens eating their own eggs? Yikes! What an annoying mess, eh? Once a chicken starts eating eggs, it can be a very bad and difficult habit to break. Especially if they teach their friends to do it too! I know from experience – a couple of our chickens started eating eggs last year. An egg broke in the nest box, they got a little taste, and it was all downhill from there… That is, until we were able to successfully stop their egg-eating behavior! 

Read along to learn how to prevent and stop chickens from eating their own eggs. Egg-eating isn’t as unnatural as you think – chickens sometimes eat their own eggs in the wild! Yet it can also be a signal that there is a serious issue in your backyard flock, and therefore shouldn’t go ignored. Egg-eating can also make a big sticky mess of their nesting box or feathers, and attract pests. If you rely on fresh eggs as a source of self-sufficient food or income, having an egg-eating chicken in your flock can be detrimental!



 Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links to products for your convenience, such as to items on Amazon. Homestead and Chill gains a small commission from purchases made through those links, at no additional cost to you.

A wire basket is full of fresh chicken eggs, they range in color from light blue/green, light blue, dark brown with mottled darker brown spots, and light brown.


9 Ways to Stop Chickens from Eating Their Eggs


1) Assess their diet


Chickens eating eggs could be a sign that they are experiencing a nutritional deficiency or imbalance. Eggs are loaded with protein, and the shells are made up of almost pure calcium. These two things are essential to a chicken’s diet and overall good health. If chickens aren’t getting enough of either, they may turn to eating their own eggs to compensate. 

Ensure your chickens are consuming adequate protein by providing a chicken feed that is formulated for laying hens. Most layer feed contains 16 to 18% percent protein. We often ferment our chicken feed, which provides probiotics and increases nutrient absorption too!

Also, limit treats to an occasional basis only. We give our girls leafy greens from the garden, but also incorporate plenty of protein-rich treats like mealworms, black oil sunflower seeds, or home-sprouted seeds and grains. You can also scramble up some eggs to feed back to your chickens.


DeannaCat is holding a bowl of fermented chicken feed in front of four chickens that are inspecting the contents of the bowl. Behind the chickens, trailing rosemary is cascading over a stone paver wall. Stop chickens eating eggs by ensuring that they are getting enough nutrition from the food that is offered.
Fermenting chicken feed is easy to do! It provides chickens even more nutrients, can boost their immune system, and also reduce your feed costs.


2) Promote healthy, strong eggshells


Laying hens need a regular supply of free choice calcium available to them at all times. This is crucial! Because eggshells are so high in calcium themselves, laying hens need to consume a substantial amount of supplemental calcium to lay hard, healthy eggs with firm shells. 

Chickens may eat eggs if they aren’t getting enough calcium elsewhere. Insufficient calcium intake can also lead to soft-shelled eggs or thin shells, which are more likely to crack – and then entice even the healthiest, curious chickens to eat eggs! Even worse, too little calcium can cause a chicken to become egg-bound. Therefore, offering additional calcium is a great way to prevent egg-eating behavior as well as illness.

Either purchase crushed oyster shells, or save and crush their own eggshells. Offer calcium in a dish separate from their food; they eat what they need (and too much calcium can harm them too). I know what you may be thinking… Doesn’t feeding chickens their own eggshells make them more likely to eat eggs? No, the vast majority of experienced chicken keepers say it does not. We bake and crush the eggshells before feeding them, which kills potential bacteria and also changes the odor and flavor of the shells… just in case. 

Related: How to Feed Chickens Crushed Eggshells (or Oyster Shells) for Essential Calcium


DeannaCat is holding a pint mason jar with a metal lid. The jar is full of baked and crushed egg shells that will be fed back to the chickens as their free choice calcium supplement.
Eggshells baked, crushed, and all ready to be put out for the girls!


3) Collect eggs often


Chickens can’t eat eggs that aren’t there! Don’t let eggs sit in the nesting boxes for an extended period of time. Collect eggs as often as your schedule permits (up to several times per day) – especially if you’re trying to break egg-eating behavior that has already developed. A big pile of eggs is just begging to be messed with, and can increase the likelihood of your chickens becoming broody. There is also a greater chance for eggs to crack and break when they’re laid on top of one another. 


4) Provide cushioned nesting areas


Have you ever seen a hen lay an egg? Even though they sit down for quite a while beforehand, they stand up and squat when the egg comes out, so it has to fall several inches before it hits the ground! If the bottom of the nesting box is hard and exposed, the egg could break – and one broken egg may be all it takes for a chicken to develop a taste for them.

Line the bottom of the coop nesting boxes with soft material for the eggs to land on. We use these durable nesting box pads, and usually add a layer of straw or hay on top for them to dig around in too. If an egg does break, clean it up quickly!


A birds eye view of the top of a nest box which contains three wooden eggs resting atop the hay within. They are white, light green, and brown in color. Stop chickens eating eggs by keeping impenetrable wooden eggs in their nest boxes.
Fake wood eggs inside a well-padded nesting box.


5) Dummy eggs in nest box


If your chickens begin to peck at their own eggs, try putting a hard dummy egg or two inside the nesting boxes. Golf balls or these fake wood eggs work well! When they go to take a peck, they’ll find the “egg” impenetrable – and will hopefully give up trying to peck the real eggs too. Placing fake eggs inside the nesting box is also an effective way to train young chickens on where to lay eggs.


We love having this reliable autodoor on our chicken coop, which lets the girls in and out of their protected run each morning and night.


6) Nest box curtains (dark or dim nesting area)


Did you know that chickens can’t see in the dark? That’s why they instinctively head into the coop to roost at dusk. So, they are far less likely to peck and eat eggs that they can’t see well. One way to darken the nesting box area is to install nest box curtains. This trick was the most successful measure to stop our chickens from eating eggs!

You can create cute little mini-curtains on rods, or do something as simple as pin old fabric napkins or cut pillowcases in front of the nest box opening. Valance curtains are already about the right height, and can easily be cut and hemmed into shorter sections.

When first installed, you may need to keep the curtains pulled or pinned partially open until your chickens get used to them. Later, we found that leaving ours completely closed was the most effective at stopping the egg eating. They push right past them to get in and out.


A dark brown and black Easter Egger chicken is standing inside of a nest box. DeannaCat is pulling aside one of the curtains that keeps the boxes more private to show the chicken within. Stop chickens from eating eggs with curtains that make their nesting boxes more dark so the chickens have a harder time seeing eggs and potentially eating them.
Can a girl get a little privacy around here? Sorry, Hennifer.
(The nesting area still looks fairly well-lit in this photo, but extra light was coming in from the open door – which is usually closed. It gets pretty dark in there!)


7) Soap and mustard 


Wait, what did I just eat?! Apparently chickens hate the taste of mustard. Plus, who would want to eat soap? Not our birds. Another old trick used to stop chickens from eating eggs is to fill an empty eggshell with dish soap and mustard (which also happens to mimic the look of gooey egg whites and yolk).

Use an egg that has been pecked with a small hole, empty it out, fill it up, and put it back in the nesting box for your egg-eating chicken to try. Or, carefully blow out an egg to fill. Hopefully the nasty surprise will turn them off for good!


A close up image of an egg that has been cracked open by chickens pecking at it. It was then emptied of its contents and replaced with dish soap and mustard to resemble egg white and yolk and placed back in the nest box for the chickens. This can help stop chickens eating eggs if they associate a bad flavor with the eggs.
Mustard and soap… yummo! Not. When we first found this pecked egg, it only had one small hole towards the bottom. We used that opening to dump the contents, fill it with mustard and soap, and then put it back in the nest box. It looks like someone came along, gave it a few more pecks, and then realized it was disgusting.


8) Provide plenty of space and entertainment


Keeping your flock happy and entertained is a fantastic way to both prevent and stop chickens from eating eggs. Bored, crowded, or otherwise unhappy birds are far more likely to start pecking at eggs – and each other! Provide roosts, ample space, and boredom-busters such as hanging treat blocks, chicken swings, or hanging cabbage ‘tether balls’ to keep them busy. 



9) Roll-away or sloped nest boxes


A final measure to stop chickens from eating eggs is to make the eggs disappear altogether. When all else fails, you could create sloped nesting boxes where the eggs roll away and out of beak’s reach after they’re laid. I consider this a last resort – not because it is extreme, but because modifying your perfectly good chicken coop could be a pain in the butt! Yet so are egg-eating chickens… so if necessary, new-and-improved nest boxes may be the solution.  


DeannaCat holding four eggs in one open palmed hand. Each egg has the name of the breed of chicken photoshopped onto the image next to the egg. One of the eggs is light blue in color (Cream Legbar), one is dark brown with mottled darker brown spots (Welsummer), one is light baby blue (Easter Egger), and the last one is light brown (Barred Rock).


And that concludes the top tricks to prevent or stop an egg-eater.


All in all, do your best to prevent your chickens from eating eggs in the first place – with a healthy diet, frequent egg gathering, and ample space to play. If they do start pecking at eggs, I hope these tips help you quickly nip that bad habit in the bud! As we did, you may need to try several techniques to stop egg-eating behavior before you find something that works. Be patient and persistent.

Please feel free to share your experience or ask questions in the comments below, and spread the knowledge by sharing this article. Thank you for tuning in!


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How to Ferment Chicken Feed for Better Hen Health & Eggs https://homesteadandchill.com/fermented-chicken-feed/ https://homesteadandchill.com/fermented-chicken-feed/#comments Wed, 29 Jul 2020 23:04:26 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=1020914 Fermenting chicken feed is an easy and inexpensive way to improve the nutritional value of your chickens food, leading to overall better health - and quality of eggs! It takes very little supplies and time to do. Come learn how!

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It’s no secret that our chickens are darn spoiled. As beloved pets that also happen to provide us fresh organic eggs to eat, giving them top-notch nutrition and care is high on our priority list! One of the many special things we do for them is ferment their chicken feed. If you know us, that shouldn’t come as a surprise either! Here at Homestead and Chill, we sing loud praises to fermented foods. Sauerkraut, kombucha, sourdough… you name it! Just like human food, fermented chicken feed packs a long list of health benefits.


Read along to learn how to ferment chicken feed, and why it is so stellar for your bird’s well-being. It is easy to do, only takes a couple minutes to make, a few days to soak, and can actually help save you money on feed! Not to mention, they love the stuff! I have yet to meet a chicken that doesn’t prefer fermented chicken feed to plain old dry grains. Plus, you’ll reap the rewards in more nutrient-dense eggs.


But first, how about a quick primer on fermentation…


What is lacto-fermentation?


Lacto-fermentation occurs when beneficial bacteria (lactobacillus) that is naturally found in the environment (like in soil, on vegetables, or your chicken feed grains) interacts with food in the right controlled environment. To ferment chicken feed, that controlled environment is as simple as a mason jar, bucket, or large glass bowl with water. The lactobacillus converts starch and sugar in the food into lactic acid bacteria (LAB). This encourages the formation of natural probiotics, lowers pH, and prevents growth of harmful bacteria in the feed. Healthy yeasts are also present in “wet mash” grain mixtures such as a fermented chicken feed. 


Why ferment chicken feed?


There are a number of reasons to feed your flock fermented chicken feed, either regularly or at least on occasion. In a nutshell (uh… I mean eggshell) it can help improve their digestion, absorption of nutrients, and overall health by adding probiotics to their diet. Even more, it is a very efficient way to feed your flock! Fermenting chicken feed can reduce the amount of grains needed to keep your flock full – cutting costs for you. Last but not least, it can even lead to better egg quality!


Four chickens are investigating around a raised stone island full of plants for pollinators. Trailing rosemary is creeping over the edge of the stone border and one of the chickens is standing on the edge of the island and rosemary. The setting sun is peaking through a tree in the background and there are various fruit trees along the perimeter of the yard. An apple, fig, and lemon tree being the most prominent.
Our happy healthy hens


HEALTH BENEFITS OF FERMENTED CHICKEN FEED


1) Increased Digestion and Nutrient Absorption


The process of soaking chicken feed grains makes them easier to digest. In the most obvious way, the softened feed is more gentle on the stomach – or in a chicken’s case, their crop and gizzard. Yet there’s more to it than that! All grains, seeds, nuts, beans and other legumes contain something called phytic acid and other enzyme inhibitors. Phytic acid can impair the absorption of certain nutrients and minerals, and is therefore often referred to as an “anti-nutrient”.

However, the process of soaking, sprouting, and/or fermenting grains and legumes vastly reduces the phytic acid content – thus makes it easier for chickens to utilize all the good nutrients they’re consuming! That is one reason we love to sprout seeds and grains for our chickens too, including alfalfa, barley, corn, sunflower seeds and more. Last but not least, fermentation has also been shown to enhance the content of certain vitamins in foods, such as Vitamin B.


A close up image of a quart mason jar 3/4 full of fermented chicken food. The feed is still submerged in water by an inch or two and there are visible bubbles throughout the feed illustrating the fermentation that is occurring.
Our flock’s favorite whole grain organic layer feed by Scratch and Peck, fermenting and bubbling away!


2) Added Probiotics and Immune Health


As lactic acid bacteria work to ferment chicken feed, beneficial bacteria populations bloom! The resulting probiotics are stellar for digestion, immunity, and improved gut health. As explored in our “Health Benefits of Fermented Foods Explained” article, gut health is directly related to total body health. 

Studies show that animals who receive a steady intake of probiotics through fermented feed have a more robust immune system than those on a standard dry feed diet. Even more, this study found that the levels of lactic acid bacteria in fermented chicken feeds lowers the pH of chickens intestines enough to ward off acid-sensitive bacteria like E.Coli and Salmonella. Meaning, chickens consuming fermented feed are less likely to develop infections and other diseases, and live longer, less complicated lives. For you, that means less stress, vet bills, and also healthier eggs!


3) Better Quality Eggs


According to a study published in the Journal of British Poultry science, chickens that were fed fermented chicken feed showed increased egg weight, shell thickness, and shell stiffness over chickens on dry food. When chickens have nice firm eggshells, they’re far less likely to have issues with laying soft-shell eggs or becoming egg-bound; both of which can be life-threatening!

Also, keep in mind that what goes into your hens also goes into their eggs. If they receive superior nourishment (including eating fermented feed), the eggs laid for you will be supremely nutritious in return. That is why pasture-raised and backyard chicken egg yolks are so deeply golden compared to their factory farm counterparts.


DeannaCat's hand is extended while it holds four fresh chicken eggs. One is light brown, one is light green, one is dark brown with even darker brown speckles, and the last one is light blue.


4) More Bang For Your Buck


Okay, this isn’t exactly a ‘health benefit’ per se… but valuable nonetheless! As chicken feed grain soaks in water to ferment, it also expands in volume – so your birds will get full faster. They aren’t being cheated out of anything in the process though, like filling up on junk food. On the other hand, they’re getting more nutrients than ever! That said, fermenting chicken feed is an inexpensive way to improve the nutritional value of basic dry feed while also consuming less of it.  


When and How Much to Feed Chickens Fermented Food


How often you decide to feed your flock fermented chicken feed is totally up to you! There is no “overdoing it” – the more often, the merrier! I know some chicken keepers who give their chickens fermented feed exclusively, while others do it only as a periodic treat. While it is very easy to do, fermenting feed admittedly takes a couple extra steps than simply leaving out a large feeder of dry grain for the week. 

Depending on our schedules, we try to make a batch at least once or twice per week. For us, one “batch” is two days worth of fermented feed – so that means our girls receive it about four days per week. Other times we fall off the wagon and do it less. However, when our chickens are molting, stressed, or seem a little under the weather, we keep the fermented feed in ample supply! They need all the extra nutritional support they can get during those times. 

Offer about the same amount of fermented chicken feed as you would their normal food. Check the serving recommendation on your feed. For example, our favorite Scratch and Peck organic layer feed suggests ¼ cup of feed per bird. That means putting out about a cup for our flock of four per day (measured prior to fermentation). Again, because fermented chicken feed may keep them more satiated and also expands slightly in volume after soaking, they may eat slightly less than usual. See what your flock will consume and adjust as needed.


DeannaCat is holding out a bowl of freshly fermented chicken feed. There are four chickens huddled around the bowl, one of them has their head inside the bowl for a closer inspection. There is trailing rosemary cascading over a raised stone border in the background.


HOW TO MAKE FERMENTED CHICKEN FEED


Step 1: Mix Feed & Water


Find a suitable container to ferment the feed in. Great examples include a large glass jar, bowl, or bucket. Because fermentation makes the feed slightly acidic, it is best to choose glass, ceramic, or BPA-free plastic. It should be large enough to hold a day or two worth of feed for your flock, plus extra room for water, stirring, and expansion. 

First, add enough chicken feed to the container for one or two daily servings for your flock. We usually ferment about two cups of feed, enough for two days.

Next, pour dechlorinated or filtered water over the top of the feed. Add enough so that the feed is fully submerged and has a couple inches of room to expand. Chlorinated water may inhibit healthy fermentation. If needed, simply leave a glass of city tap water out at room temperature overnight to allow the chlorine to dissipate. 


Q: What type of chicken feed can I ferment?

A: You can ferment crumble, pellets, or whole grain chicken feed – including chick starter! We’ve found that whole grain feed holds up the best, as the others expand more and get a bit mushy. We use our long-time favorite organic layer feed from Scratch and Peck. You can even ferment scratch as a treat, though it shouldn’t replace their layer feed. 



Step 2: Let It Ferment


Cover the top of the container with a loose-fitting lid, plate, or other makeshift lid. It doesn’t need to be air tight! The idea is to prevent drifting mold spores from floating in, but also allow the fermentation gasses to escape.

Set the container in a location with moderate temperatures for three to four days to ferment. We leave ours on the counter. Check and stir it each day. Add additional water if the feed has absorbed it all.

By day or two or three, you should see small bubbles on the surface and/or within the feed mixture. That is a sign that lactobacillus is hard at work! It should smell slightly tangy, sour, and sweet – similar to yogurt or yeast. Ours smells a tad fishy too, only because the feed has kelp meal in it. The liquid will also get increasingly cloudy. If the fermented chicken feed develops mold or putrid odors, do not feed it to them!

While fermented chicken feed will be effectively preserved (due to the low pH) and safe to consume beyond day three or four, it gets more sour the longer it sits. Therefore, it can become less palatable for your spoiled chicken’s taste buds. We took a survey among our backyard residents and found that our flock prefers their feed fermented for three days. 


We love having this reliable autodoor on our chicken coop, which lets the girls in and out of their protected run each morning and night.


Step 3: Drain and Feed


Chow time! If the fermented chicken feed hasn’t absorbed all of the water, you can either drain it off into the bushes, or reserve the liquid to jump start a new batch! The lactic acid bacteria in the “brine” will be happy to feed on more fresh grains, and can actually put the next batch about a day ahead of schedule. 

Speaking of schedules, you’ll need to figure out your own little fermented feed groove. Since it takes a few days to ferment, some folks start staggered batches every day or two (date the containers) in order to have fermented feed available at all times. Or, you could start one batch after another and not provide fermented feed every day.

Note that the feed will spoil faster when it is no longer submerged in its liquid “bath”. Therefore, if you ferment a hefty amount to feed a larger flock over the course of two days, simply scoop out half on day three and then drain/use the rest on day four. If they gobble it up on both days, that is great! Because we make a two-day supply at a time BUT our girls don’t eat it as readily after more than three days of fermenting, we refrigerate the unfed portion to halt fermentation until using the rest the following day.


A four way image collage of the process of fermented chicken feed, the first image is watermarked with a "0" in the lower right corner indicating that it's the initial start of the process. There is a quart mason jar halfway full of whole grain chicken feed. The remainder of the jar is full of water, leaving the feed submerged. The second image is watermarked with a "1" in the lower right corner. The feed has expanded some, the remaining water is slightly darker in color and there is about two inches of water above the feed. The third image is marked with a "2" in the lower right corner indicating that it is the 2nd day of fermentation. The feed has expanded even more and the water is slightly more cloudy. There is about an inch of water covering the feed. The fourth image is watermarked with a "3" showing that it's the third day of fermentation. The feed has expanded even more, leaving only about a half an inch of water covering the feed. The feed looks to be more melded together compared to the previous images.
From start to finish, a 3-day ferment


Simple, effective, and worthwhile!


In short, making fermented chicken feed is an easy and inexpensive way to give your girls a boost! It can lead to healthier chickens, better quality eggs, and potentially lower feed costs. What’s not to love about all that? I hope you found this article helpful and interesting. If so, please spread the love by sharing this post! Above all, I hope your chickens enjoy their new feed!


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How to Make Fermented Chicken Feed

Fermenting chicken feed is an easy and inexpensive way to improve the nutritional value of your chickens food, leading to overall better health – and quality of eggs! It takes very little supplies and time to do. Come learn how!
Course Chicken Feed, Fermented Foods
Keyword fermented chicken feed, fermented feed, fermenting chicken feed
Prep Time 5 minutes
Fermentation Time 3 days

Equipment

  • Large glass jar, mixing bowl, bucket, or other container (BPA-free preferred)

Ingredients

  • 1-2 servings chicken feed of choice (for the whole flock) including whole grain feed, pellets or crumbles

Instructions

  • Check the serving recommendations for your chicken feed (e.g. 1/4 cup per chicken per day). Then, choose a large enough container to fit one or two daily servings of feed for your flock, plus some extra room for water, expansion, and stirring.
  • Add enough chicken feed to the container for one or two days servings for your flock. We usually ferment two cups of feed, enough for two days.
  • Pour dechlorinated or filtered water over the top of the feed. Add enough so that the feed is fully submerged and has a couple inches of room to expand. (If needed, simply leave a glass of city tap water out at room temperature overnight to allow the chlorine to dissipate.)
  • Cover the top of the container with a loose-fitting lid, plate, or other makeshift lid. It doesn’t need to be air tight.
  • Set the container in a location with moderate temperatures for three to four days to ferment (such as out on the counter, in the garage, etc).
  • Check and stir it each day. Add additional water if the feed has absorbed it all.
  • After 3 to 4 days (our chickens prefer day 3) give them the fermented feed. If it hasn’t absorbed all of the water, you can either drain it off and discard, or reserve the liquid to jump start a new batch of fermented feed.
  • Repeat as desired, and develop a schedule. Since it takes a few days to ferment, some folks start staggered batches every day (put a date on the container!) in order to have a finished batch of fermented feed available at all times. Because we make a two-day supply at a time, we refrigerate the unfed portion to feed them the next day and also start a new batch.


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10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool During Hot Summer Weather or Heat Waves https://homesteadandchill.com/keep-chickens-cool-hot-summer-weather/ https://homesteadandchill.com/keep-chickens-cool-hot-summer-weather/#comments Wed, 20 May 2020 14:29:36 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=1017807 Did you know that extreme heat is more life-threatening to chickens than cold conditions? Thankfully, there are many simple ways to keep chickens cool and safe during hot summer weather - including providing shade, water, and the right treats. Read along to learn more!

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Chickens are rockstars at a lot of things: laying eggs, throwing sass, making us laugh, digging holes… But one thing chickens aren’t great at is keeping themselves cool and collected in extreme heat. They need your help! In fact, your efforts could be life-saving. Did you know that extreme heat is more dangerous for chickens than freezing cold conditions? It sure is. I’ve heard SO many sad stories of friends losing their chickens to heat… Thankfully, there are many simple ways that you can help keep your flock of chickens cool and safe during hot summer weather. Read along to learn more!


How hot of temperatures is “too hot” for chickens?


In general, temperatures over 90 degrees Fahrenheit increase the risk of heat stress and heat-related illness in chickens, including death. Prolonged hot temperatures combined with high humidity is an especially uncomfortable combination, for chickens and humans alike. The degree of heat stress depends on a number of factors, including the chicken’s living quarters, diet, and breed. Heavier chicken breeds may start to become overheated around 85°F. On the other hand, smaller or lighter chicken breeds generally do better in heat. 

Chickens can’t sweat to cool themselves. Instead, chickens dissipate excess heat from their combs, wattles, beaks, and feet. Meaning, any surface area that isn’t covered in their built-in down jackets! Therefore, chicken breeds with large combs and wattles are able to cool themselves more readily than those with small peacombs. Learn more characteristics of the Top 18 Backyard Chicken breeds here, including comb and body type, egg production, demeanor, and more.


Signs of heat stress and heat stroke in chickens


  • Overheating chickens will usually pant: breathing heavily through an open beak, often moving their tongues up and down.
  • Standing with wings held out away from their body
  • Droopy and lethargic behavior
  • Decreased appetite
  • Pale or discolored combs and wattles
  • Egg production may also decrease with prolonged heat exposure


A  brownish red chickens is standing next to a raised garden bed. Her beaks is agape and her wings are being held away from her body to keep herself cool. It is important to know how to keep chickens cool in hot weather.
This is Phoebe, and she is a hot bird. You can see she is panting, breathing with her beak open. Her wings are also held away from her sides in an effort to cool down. Don’t worry, she got some frozen strawberries right after this!


Many of these signs and symptoms sound pretty scary – but I don’t want you to worry! With the measures described below, it is fairly easy to keep your chickens cool during hot summer weather with minimal intervention. If your area is known for high heat, hopefully you set up your coop and run with cooling measures already in mind. Or, you can make some modifications as needed.  

Unusual heat waves pose the most risk for heat stress in chickens. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, monitor your chickens behavior, and be prepared to respond accordingly. Chickens that live in places with routinely hot conditions may become accustomed to the heat, and tolerate it better than those who are used to more temperate conditions. We have many Midwest and Southern friends who say their chickens do just fine with temperatures in the 90s. Here on the mild Central Coast of California, a heat wave of 90+ degree days is quite unusual, uncomfortable and risky for our flock.  


10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Weather


1) Provide Shade 


This is one of the most simple but crucial measures. Ensure that your chickens have a shady space to retreat on hot days. Our girls love to hang out under the trees in our yard. If your chicken run area is mostly sunny, create additional shade by draping black shade cloth over the run. Another option is to string one of these cool shade canopies between posts, fences, or trees.


Two saw horses are positioned below a grapefruit tree. Two chickens are roosting on one of them in the shade while a lone chicken is roosting on the other.
Resting in the shade on a warm day. We keep several roosts throughout the yard under the canopy of trees. It helps them feel secure (feeling less exposed to predators) as well as cool and comfortable.


2) Cold Fresh Water 


Provide a constant supply of cold fresh water. On the hottest days, that may mean refreshing their water a few times per day. Some chicken keepers add ice to their chicken waterers to keep them cool. Instead of ice, you could also throw some frozen treats in there – like frozen fruit or vegetables! Keep their waterers in a shady and readily accessible location (e.g. not inside the hot coop, especially if they aren’t hanging out in there during the day). If your chickens are showing signs of heat stress, adding electrolytes to their water can help them stay hydrated and healthy.


3) The Right Cold Treats


Did you know that some treats actually increase a chicken’s body temperature? As we explored in our “Keeping Chickens Warm in Winter” article, high-carb treats like dry cracked corn and scratch warm them up from the inside out as they work to digest them. Thus, cut back or avoid scratch during extreme heat. Rather, provide cold, refreshing, high-moisture treats such as watermelon and other fruits and veggies. 

Try freezing some treats! We like to give our girls frozen peas, corn, watermelon chunks, and chopped frozen strawberries on hot days. Another popular idea is to make frozen treat blocks. Fill a large “tupperware” type container with water and berries (or similar), freeze it overnight, and set it out the next day for the chickens to pick at as it thaws. 

As always, treats should only be fed in moderation – especially in hot conditions, as chickens are likely eating less in general. This makes it quite easy to become malnourished, adding to an already stressful situation. 


A hand is holding a bowl of frozen strawberry pieces, below the bowl are three chickens waiting intently for the frozen food that will help keep them cool.
Frozen chopped strawberries
Two brownish red and black colored chickens are standing around a blue bowl that contains frozen strawberry pieces. One of the chickens has their head inside the bowl inspecting the berries while the other. Chicken is standing and staring at the camera. There is a black and white chicken that is only partially visible off to the side of the image.
See? Phoebe is feeling better already.


4) Freeze their Feed


In order to maintain optimal health, encourage your chickens to continue to eat their usual nutritionally-balance chicken feed. Freezing their feed for an hour or so before putting it out is one way to make it potentially more appetizing, as well as cooling. When chickens consume frozen food (including frozen treats), having cold material in their crop actually lowers their body temperature from within!


5) Ventilate & Cool the Coop


It’s always recommended to provide good ventilation inside a chicken coop, but even more so in hot conditions. Ensure the coop has screened (but predator-proof!) openings that allow for a nice cross-breeze. If your coop is usually pretty buttoned-up for winter, are there any solid walls or doors that you could safely swap with wire fencing during the summer? If our girls go into the coop to lay eggs on hot days, we sometimes prop open the main “human” door to help cool thing down inside – but have to be diligent to remember to close it back up again at night!

Consider adding a fan in the coop if safe electricity is available, or use a solar-powered fan. Also, avoid overcrowding – in both the coop and run space. Nobody likes a crowd on hot days. Provide at least 4 square feet of indoor coop space and 10 square feet of outdoor space per chicken. 

Update: Another great life-saving tip and way to cool down the chicken coop is to fill large containers with water and freeze them (e.g. milk jugs, liter or 2-liter plastic bottles). Then, tuck the frozen containers in the coop around the chickens to keep them cool overnight.


We love having this reliable autodoor on our chicken coop, which lets the girls in and out of their protected run each morning and night.


6) Keep the Coop Clean (No Deep Litter Method)


During hot conditions, keep the coop as clean and tidy as possible. Reduce the bedding layer inside the coop to no more than 2 inches deep to prevent trapping in heat. Some chicken keepers use a “deep litter” method, which allows the bedding material (and chicken excrement) to form a deep pile on the coop floor. The built up material acts as an extra layer of insulation in the coop. As microbes work to break it down, the material physically heats up. While this is a clever way to keep the coop warmer during winter, it is less-than-ideal in hot summer conditions! 


7) Set up a Kiddie Pool (or Mud Puddle)


Chickens can lower their body temperature by keeping their feet cool. Some of them love to stand in cool water on a hot day! I know many people who set up little kiddie pools or wading pools for their chickens to enjoy. Yet other folks say their chickens won’t use them much. It depends on the flock, and their opportunity to become accustomed to the idea. For example, if extreme heat is the norm and you always have a pool out during the summer, I bet the chickens take to it! But if you don’t usually provide one and then whip out a blue kiddie pool during a random heat wave, your chickens will probably just look at it (and you) sideways. You can also add a few pavers/stepping stones in the pool, to give them a place to stand and feel more stable while inside.

Instead of a pool, another option to keep chickens feet cool is to create a muddle puddle area. Wet the ground and provide standing, muddy water. We all know how much chickens like dirt! Perhaps they’ll be more excited about getting their feet wet in mud if they aren’t keen on a water pool.  


Two chickens inside of a blue kiddie pool that is halfway filled with water. There are stones and brick pavers sitting in the water and these are what the chickens are standing on. One of the chickens is standing with their bewk agape while the other has its wings held away from its body.
Chickens enjoying a kiddie pool on a hot summer day. Photo courtesy of the Chicken Chick.


8) Use Misters (or Sprinklers)


Adding moisture to the air or ground around the coop and run will lower the surrounding temperature. As airborne water droplets evaporate, it immediately cools the air. Therefore, setting up a mister system is one effective way to help keep your chickens cool, and could be very worthwhile in places where regular hot days are common. Alternatively, you could use lawn sprinklers nearby, or simply spray down the ground with a hose on occasion. 

This popular, affordable and simple mister system connects right to a nearby faucet.


9) Provide Dust Bath Space


Wallowing in dirt may sound like an uncomfortable pursuit to us humans, but that is how chickens keep themselves clean – and cool! Soil a few inches below the sunny ground surface can be several degrees cooler. Like ventilation, providing a nice dust bath space is always a good idea. The layer of dust on their skin and feathers also helps them stay fluffed and cool.

On hot days, be sure your chickens have a place to dust bath in the shade. If their shaded run area doesn’t have suitable ground material for dust bathing, create a dust bath! Fill galvanized metal tubs (what we use), a sturdy tote bin, kiddie pool, or other container with fine dirt or sand. Add a sprinkle of lime, wood ash, or food-grade diatomaceous earth for added mite and lice control. If possible, add large holes to the bottom of the container for drainage on rainy days. 

Learn more here: How to Make a Chicken Dust Bath: Easy DIY Ideas


Three hens are inside a metal tub full of dirt, one of hens is laying in the dirt while the other two are busy pecking away at the soil.


10) Dunk the Chicken in Water


Okay, this sounds a little extreme… and that is because it kind of is! I suggest this option if your chickens are showing clear and persistent signs of heat stress, and the other ways we’ve explored to cool chickens down are not working (or possible). Truth be told, we have dunked our hot chickens in water on several occasions – and they seem to love it! Check out the video of Miss Ginger below. Before her bath, she couldn’t even stand up.

We are fortunate, and do not have regular hot weather where we live. Most summer days are in the 70s, and rarely over 85°F. However, that means that when we are hit with a random heat wave, our chickens are absolutely not accustomed to it. That also means we do not have misters, a kiddie pool, or other cooling methods readily available. 

So, when our chickens are looking miserable and I am worried for their safety, we gently submerge them (only up to their shoulders) in a bucket of cool to room temperature water for about one minute. That is sufficient time to rapidly cool their internal body temperature. Once they’re done, the evaporation from their wet feathers will also help keep them cool for a while.

Note that you should NOT dunk them in freezing cold or even notably cold water. That is just mean, and can be shocking in its own right. If the water coming out of your hose is really cold, let the bucket of water sit out in the sun for a half hour or so to slightly warm. When we’re having a heat wave, our tap water is usually plenty warm to use as-is. 


Press play. It was over 95F this particular afternoon, and Ginger wouldn’t even stand up before this! We acted quickly and gave each girl a one-minute dip in cool water.


And that is how to keep chickens cool, comfortable, and safe in extreme heat.


In all, no one knows your flock better than you do! When things start to heat up, monitor them and respond in your best judgement and ability. If a chicken becomes alarmingly listless, a final resort is to bring them inside to the cooling comfort of your home. Don’t laugh! I know many people who do. Set up a large crate, bring them into a cool basement, or designate a spare bathroom as a temporary chicken sanctuary to keep your friends safe. They’re relying on you, after all. 


Did I forget any good tips that you use to keep chickens cool in the summer? Add your experience (or ask questions) in the comments below! Also please feel free to spread the chicken love by sharing or pinning this article. Thank you for tuning in.


Interested in learning more about raising backyard chickens? You may enjoy these related articles:



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10 Tips on Caring for Chickens in Cold Winter Weather https://homesteadandchill.com/caring-for-chickens-in-winter/ https://homesteadandchill.com/caring-for-chickens-in-winter/#comments Thu, 14 Nov 2019 13:15:38 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=11132 Read along to learn the 10 best practices to keep your flock of chickens warm, healthy and happy in cold winter weather. Let's talk about winterizing the chicken coop and run, special food and water requirements, preventing frostbite - and more!

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Chickens are hardy little buggers, and do surprisingly well in cold climates! Truth be told, excessive heat is usually more immediately life-threatening to chickens than cold weather is. Chickens are essentially walking, squawking miniature down jackets, after all! While they may not love the cold, chickens will easily survive even when outdoor temperatures are in the teens – especially when they are provided a properly winterized coop to stay safe and dry in! Read along to learn more about how to care for chickens in winter.

There are many measures you can take to keep your flock of chickens warm, healthy and happy in cold winter weather. These include winterizing the chicken coop with additional insulation, creating a protected outdoor space for them to enjoy, keeping an eye out for frostbite, and providing food and water in a slightly different manner. This article covers the top 10 recommended tips for taking care of chickens in winter, to prepare you and your flock for the cold! If you’re interested, check out 10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Summer Weather too.


Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links to products for your convenience, such as to items on Amazon. Homestead and Chill gains a small commission from purchases made through those links, at no additional cost to you.

A greenhouse and a chicken coop are nestled between two large trees. It is the middle of winter as seen by the snow that has accumulated on the ground, trees, coop, and greenhouse. There is a forest of trees behind the coop and they have all lost their leaves and are quite bare. The sun is out, casting shadows from trees nearby.
On a blustery, cold day in upstate New York, Amy’s (@thepeachtree) chickens still have a warm and dry space to hang out. During the winter, Amy transforms their fenced run into a little greenhouse by wrapping it with plastic sheeting – where it stays 20 degrees warmer inside!


1) PREVENT COLD DRAFTS

Does your coop allow air to flow inside through slats, holes, or cracks? If so, plan to seal those up in preparation for winter! Freezing cold air drafts will quickly chill the chickens inside. Plywood can be used to easily patch holes. Or, use a tarp, durable plastic sheeting, or Tyvek material to wrap the coop. A proper chicken coop should already have a waterproof roof, but if not, seal that up too! However, do not block off all of their essential ventilation openings.


2) MAINTAIN GOOD COOP VENTILATION

Wait… Didn’t she just say to seal up holes and prevent cold drafts? Yes! I did. However, we also want to avoid creating stagnant moist air inside the coop, especially during the winter. A build-up of ammonia and moisture from their droppings and breath will increase the risk of moldy bedding, respiratory infections, and frostbite on their sensitive combs and wattles! Therefore, ensure the coop maintains good ventilation and low humidity. 

Ideally, vents should be located near the top of the coop, well above where the chickens roost. This will allow hot steamy air to rise and escape, but prevent the potential cold drafts coming through the vents and blowing directly on them. 


3) ADD ADDITIONAL INSULATION

Did you know that the internal temperature of an adult chicken is around 105-109°F? It sure is. Therefore, they generate a lot of body heat to keep themselves and their flock mates warm – naturally! In addition to sealing up the coop to prevent the cold from getting in, add extra insulation and thermal mass to better trap their body heat inside.

On the floor of the coop, add thick layers of bedding material such as straw or pine shavings. Depending on the size and layout of your coop, you can also add bales of hay inside, around the outside, or even under the coop to help insulate it!

You could also choose to follow the “deep litter method” during cold winter weather. Rather than regularly cleaning out the coop, continue to add more fresh bedding on top of soiled bedding. The “deep litter” provides insulation, and also produces some heat as microbial activity increases within it. However, do note that the deep litter method is only effective if properly and carefully managed. If not, it can also increase the level of humidity to undesirable levels.


The front of a chicken coop is shown, the coop door is open and four chickens are shown exiting the coop. There are hay bales lined along the front of the coop to help insulate the structure. Snow has accumulated on the hay bales and top of the coop and one chicken is standing on the top edge of the coop door.
A great example of providing insulation with straw around a smaller coop, which would be otherwise difficult to fill with much insulating material. Photo from @magicvalleyhomestead


4) MONITOR TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY

If you’re curious about how well-insulated your coop is, how warm your girls are in there, or how likely it is for their water to freeze inside, put a thermometer in the coop. You will find that a properly winterized coop is significantly warmer than the outside!

We love using this indoor/outdoor thermometer. It has a remote sensor, so we can easily keep an eye on outdoor (or chicken coop) temperatures from the comfort of inside. It is also a hygrometer, meaning it monitors humidity levels too!


5) ROOSTS

This may be a no-brainer, but ensure your coop is equipped with roosts for chickens to comfortably sleep on. The height will depend on the size of your coop, but at least 1 to 2 feet above the ground is a commonly recommended roost height. Being able to roost keeps chickens up off the cold floor. It also gives them a place to get comfy, fluff up their feathers, and snuggle in with their pals. There is warmth in numbers! If you have a chicken that tends to sleep alone or in another location (such as in the nest box), move her to the roost with the others at bedtime on dangerously cold nights.

For the most comfortable roost, I suggest using a 2×4” board on its wide side, as opposed to round or skinnier roosts. I have even seen some 2×4’s wrapped in cloth towels for extra cush ‘n comfort. 


We love having this reliable autodoor on our chicken coop, which lets the girls in and out of their protected run each morning and night.


6) WATCH OUT FOR FROSTBITE

The most cold-sensitive part of a chicken is their comb and wattles. Even more, the larger the comb and wattles, the more prone to frostbite they are! Single-comb roosters are especially at risk. Chickens living in damp, cold conditions are increasingly susceptible over those with a drier environment, which is one reason why good coop ventilation is so important. A high wind chill combined with excessive moisture is a recipe for disaster when it comes to frostbite.

Watch out for black tips! The tips of a chicken’s comb and droopiest part of their wattles (the areas furthest from their body) will succumb to frostbite first, turning dark red, purple, to black in color. Blisters and yellowish-white colors may appear.

In addition to maintaining a dry coop environment, another easy way to prevent frostbite in chickens is to lube up their combs and wattles with vaseline, coconut oil, petroleum jelly. Some chickens keepers say they never do this, but some lather them up each freezing evening before bedtime. To learn more about treating frostbite in chickens, check out this article by the Chicken Chick.


A close up of a chickens head is shown. The tips of the hens wattle are starting to turn black on the back portion of the wattle. This is a tell tale sign of frost bite.
A chicken with frostbite on its comb. Photo courtesy of Backyardchickens.com


7) PROVIDE A PROTECTED OUTDOOR SPACE

In addition to winterizing the chicken coop, winterize their run or other outdoor space to encourage them to come out and play. In a similar fashion to the coop, tarps or heavy-duty plastic sheeting can be used to cover the top or sides of a run area, providing protection from rain, snow, and wind. They will be very grateful to have an area to get some much-needed sunshine and fresh air. I have even seen some folks create poly tunnels, hoop houses, or makeshift “greenhouses” for their chickens – similar to what you’d grow food under! 

Additionally, lay down layers of straw on top of frozen ground or snow, giving them a place to comfortably walk around. On the other hand, some chickens don’t seem to mind tromping through the snow! Keep an eye on those ones though, since their feet are also susceptible to frostbite.


The inside of a chicken coop is shown that has been made out of a poly tunnel. There are 4x4's of wood beams made into an a frame to create space for roosting. The bottom of the floor is covered in straw and the outside is lined in hay bales. There are chickens scattered throughout the area, some are on the hay bales, some  are in the center area surrounded by the bales, and two chickens are roosting on the back section of a-frames.
If I were a chicken, I would be stoked to hang out in this hoop house during the winter! Photo from Soul Fire Farm
The outside of a chicken coop is shown with a chicken next to the ladder that leads within. There is straw scattered throughout the front landing area that provides cover from the snow beneath. Beyond the straw, the ground is covered in snow.
Look at that dry, warm(er) place to walk. Thanks Mom! Photo courtesy of @hawriverhomestead


8) PROVIDE ESSENTIALS INDOORS

You know the saying, “Feeling cooped up all winter”? Let’s all just reflect on that for a moment… When it is downright miserable outside, your poor cranky chickens may simply choose to stay inside their coop rather than brave the great outdoors. But is it enjoyable for them in there? Do they have what they need to stay healthy?

If it seems your chickens won’t be coming outside as much as they usually do, be sure to keep accessible food and water inside the coop. Maybe you already do this year-round.If you have space inside your coop, consider adding additional “entertainment” such as more roosts, hanging treat baskets, a cabbage tetherball, or other toys and treats to keep them busy on those cooped up days.


9) WARM FOOD, CARBS, & TREATS

Chickens oftentimes take a break from egg-laying during the winter, which we’ll discuss more below. During this time, their body shifts from demanding a protein-rich diet for egg production to one with more carbohydrates, used to provide basic energy and to stay warm. Continue to primarily offer and feed them their usual layer feed, which provides them the well-balanced nutrition that they need.

Surprisingly, chickens consume more feed in the winter than they do in spring or summer! Just like people, I suppose. Free-ranging chickens (or those with regular outdoor access) will be foraging less in the winter and getting less calories from supplemental food sources like insects or plants. Therefore, they’ll appreciate a little more feed to compensate. Also, the simple process of consuming and digesting food generates internal heat and helps chickens stay warm during winter!

My friend Amy lives in upstate New York, and treats her three hens to a special warm breakfast on freezing mornings. It helps heat them up and kick start their metabolism to begin the day. Perhaps your schedule doesn’t allow for daily warm meals, and that is okay! Do what you can, but keep in mind that they’ll appreciate some extra feed, carbs, and treats during this time. 


Ideas for chicken treats during cold winter weather:

  • Warm oatmeal, grits, cooked rice, cooked corn, or any combination of those
  • Sprouted seeds and grains, for an additional boost of greens and nutrition – Read how we easily sprout seeds and grains for our flock here!
  • Meal worms, to top warm meals or simply on their own
  • Cracked corn, a popular winter treat to boost energy
  • Scratch with black oil sunflower seeds and other goodies
  • Dampen and heat up their usual layer feed on the stove top or in the oven


Finally, be sure to provide an additional source of grit if the ground is frozen or they cannot otherwise forage. Grit works within their crop to help properly break down food material. During other times of year, your chickens may be obtaining their grit naturally from the dirt in their run or yard. Without it, serious digestive issues can occur. 


10) MAKE SURE THEIR WATER DOESN’T FREEZE

Like all of us, chickens need water to survive. Fresh clean water must be made available at all times, which can be tricky when it is freezing outside! While chickens do prefer to drink cool water over warm water, they will not break through a layer of ice to access the water below! You’ll need to keep their water defrosted for them.


Ways to prevent your chickens water from freezing during the winter:

  • Keep the water container inside the coop or winterized run space you’ve created, which hopefully will be several degrees warmer than ambient outdoor temperatures. Perhaps this will be enough to keep the water defrosted!

  • Manually change out the water as needed. This may mean bringing out fresh water each morning, or potentially a couple times per day – depending on your weather. Be sure to have two chicken waterers, bowls, or other containers available so you can simply swap out the frozen one for a fresh one.

  • Insulate the chickens water container to prevent it from freezing, such as with old wool caps, towels, or other materials. *Try this nifty trick: Fill an old tire with insulating material such as bubble wrap, wool blankets, or even straw (though the latter two may get wet and soggy) and then place a large black bowl full of water in the center. The bowl should be about the same size as the tire’s center hole. Prop it up with bricks or wood if needed, so that the bowl rim is at the same height as the tire rim. Then keep this out in a sunny location. The black color and insulating material will draw in heat, preventing the chickens water from freezing.

  • If electricity is available in your chicken coop or run, use a heated pet bowl, heated poultry waterer, or specialized heated base to set their water container on – all made for this very reason.


A close up of the ground with a shallow layer of snow, maybe an inch or so deep, and chicken feet imprints in the snow. They have three long pointer toes in front and one shorter one off back side of the footprint.



OTHER WINTER CONSIDERATIONS


Supplemental Heat

Let’s start by saying this is a somewhat controversial subject. Some chicken keepers insist that heating a coop with an electric heater is not necessary. It may also encourage your birds to stay indoors rather than getting fresh air outside, or prevent them from getting accustomed to the cold. However, some chicken keepers routinely provide supplemental heat for their chickens in the winter – be it out of “necessity” and extreme cold, or simply because they feel sorry for the poor dears. Others only provide heat on occasional or unusually extra-chilly nights. 

The risk of fire is the largest concern with providing supplemental electric heat, so do your homework, heed safety precautions, and exercise good common sense if you decide to go this route! Traditional heat lamps pose the most fire risk, as they can easily topple over into bedding or other ignitable material. There are some safer radiant-heat options available that pose less risk. 

To heat or not to heat your chicken coop in winter is a personal decision.


Age & Breed of Chicken

The advice provided in this article is geared towards fully-grown, fully-feathered chickens in winter. Chicks or pullets (young chickens) that are not fully-feathered cannot keep themselves warm the same way adult birds can. Thus, they require special care, warmer temperatures, and should not be outside in cold weather without supplemental heat. To read more about how to take care of baby chicks, see this article: “Baby Chick Care 101: Brooders, Butts, & Beyond”

Thankfully, most breeds of chickens do rather well with cold weather. Some of the most cold-hardy chickens breeds include Ameraucana, Easter Eggers, Orpingtons, Wyandottes, Speckled Sussex, Brahmas, and Australorps. Even their bantam (small) counterparts can hold their own! However, chickens with “frizzle” feathers are not as cold-hardy, because their fancy flippant feathers don’t provide the same insulation as standard feathers. As we discussed above, chickens with large single combs are the most prone to frostbite – so keep a closer eye on them! 

To learn more details about popular chicken breeds, including heat and cold hardiness, egg-laying habits, demeanor, and more – see our article “The Top 18 Backyard Chicken Breeds”


Three chickens are shown standing in the snow. The chicken on the left is staring off into the distance or towards the ground, the chicken in the background is staring at the photographer, and the chicken on the right has its head down towards the snow, picking around and looking for something to eat.
Easter Eggers have small peacombs, and are excellent (ahem, goofy) cold-hardy chickens! These beauties are Hadley, Miss Chickens, and Bebe, the keepers of Amy @thepeachtree


Egg Laying in Winter

It is very common for chickens to stop laying eggs in the winter, or to vastly decrease in frequency. This provides their bodies a natural break from the energy and nutrient-intensive process of producing eggs, switching into conservation mode instead. The decline in egg production is triggered by the decreased light and shorter days of winter. 

Some chicken keepers provide supplemental light inside the coop to keep their chickens laying through winter. Personally, we don’t support this practice because it goes against their natural cycle. Furthermore, hens only carry a set amount of eggs in their bodies for their lifetime. Pushing them to lay through winter will result in the hen slowing down or stopping egg production earlier in its life. 

If your hens happen to lay eggs in the winter, be sure to collect them quickly! Eggs left out in cold conditions can easily freeze. While you can still consume eggs that have been frozen and defrosted, they usually expand and crack open while freezing – which is not ideal. 


Molting During Winter

Most chickens go through their annual molt in the fall, and have hopefully regained most of their feathers before winter hits. However, if you find your chickens happen to be a bit naked come cold weather, there are a few things you can do to help them stay warm. 

  • Provide extra protein-rich foods to encourage fast feather growth. 
  • Create a “chicken sandwich” by tucking them between their biggest, fluffiest buddies on the roost at night.
  • If necessary, carefully set up a heat lamp in the coop – or even bring them indoors.
  • Do NOT put chicken sweaters on them! The extra pressure against them is very uncomfortable and even painful while their new feathers are growing out.


For more tips, see this article “Help, My Chicken is Molting! How to Care for Molting Chickens”


Looking down at two feet, with a large pile of brown and white feathers piled in front of the feet on grass. A brown molting chicken that appears to be missing feathers is peering over the pile of collected feathers too.


And those are the secrets to keeping your chickens warm, happy, and healthy in winter.


I hope you found this information to be useful, and learned something new to help you take the best care of your chickens in winter! Please feel free to ask questions, and pin or share this post. If you are new to raising chickens, be sure to check out our chicken-keeping 101 article: “What to Expect When You’re Expecting: Backyard Chickens”. Finally, when winter goes away and things start to heat up again, come back to learn 10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Summer Weather!



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Chicken Losing Feathers? How to Care for Molting Chickens https://homesteadandchill.com/care-for-molting-chickens/ https://homesteadandchill.com/care-for-molting-chickens/#comments Mon, 23 Sep 2019 22:37:19 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=9386 Are your chickens losing feathers? Read along to learn about the molting process, including how to best care for your molting chickens during this uncomfortable time. With your help and a little special care, they'll be back to their beautiful, egg-laying selves in no time!

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That moment you walk into your backyard and it looks like an explosion of feathers – or worse, like a hawk attack went down. It must be molting season! Some chickens molt hard and fast, some slow and less intensely, but they all do it! Molting is a totally natural, normal process that chickens go through about once per year. While they’re molting, they will appreciate some extra TLC, treats, and special care.

Read along to learn more about the molting process, and how you can help your backyard flock get through this somewhat awkward process -in the most comfortable and healthy manner possible! Even though molting is natural, it can be quite taxing on their nutrient reserves – and also a bit stressful. We’ll also go over a few frequently asked questions about molting, and what to do with all those lost feathers!


A blue bucket full of chicken feathers sits directly in the foreground while four chickens stand around its perimeter, staring at the bucket. The chickens are in the understory of a few trees and it is shaded, the chickens have recently started to molt which is the process of shedding old feather to make room for new ones.


When & Why Do Chickens Molt?

Chickens molt to naturally “turn over” their feathers, pushing out old ones and making room for the new. Some chickens may lose nearly all their feathers at once, while others may molt in patches. Timing can vary from chicken to chicken, thought molting is most often associated with the fall season. The decrease in daylight hours triggers the molting process to begin. Some of our girls wait until closer to winter. Younger pullets, less than one year old, may not molt during their first fall or winter at all. The duration of a molt will also vary for each individual bird, and can range from several weeks to a few months to complete. 

Keep in mind that there can be a few other causes of feather loss in chickens, including but not limited to rooster-riding, bully-plucking, lice or mites. If your chicken is losing feathers at an odd time of year, rule out other causes by observing their behavior and carefully inspecting their feathers for parasites.


A Welsummer breed chicken stands staring at the photographer. The hen is showing signs of molting, her tail feathers have shed and she has spots of missing feathers throughout her body. Her comb and waddle have also slightly shrunk and have turned more pale than usual. There is another chicken in the background who hasn't molted too hard just yet, maintaining a modest amount of feathers with decent comb and waddle coloration. Trailing rosemary is in the background.
Ginger molts a little here and there, but never looks quite as naked as some girls can!


Does Molting Hurt Chickens?

While chickens can’t exactly tell us how it feels to molt, it is thought that it is uncomfortable for them. I mean, it sure LOOKS painful, doesn’t it?!? You can tell the birds aren’t their normal, chipper selves, as their activity usually decreases. Persnickety birds will get extra persnickety. Molting chickens may also be seen sitting differently than usual, avoiding pressure on the areas that are extra pokey and tender. Therefore, take care to give your girls the space they desire during this sensitive time. Try not to pick them up or otherwise handle them unless necessary. Also avoid creating stress – such as introducing new flock members during this time. 

In addition to a decrease in activity, your molting chicken may eat and poop less as their metabolism generally slows down. With that, their combs and wattles will also shrink and become less brightly colored – a sign that also coincides with egg laying patterns. 


An Easter Egger chicken who has molted fairly quickly is standing in the forefront. You can see here quills of feather re-growth protruding from her wing/shoulder area and her pea comb has shrunken to a size even smaller than usual. She looks to be in a sad state but that will change once her feathers grow back better than new.
Hennifer molts hard and fast. Don’t make fun of the raggamuffin! Or, do. It’s too hard not too!


Molting & Egg-Laying

Chickens usually take a break from laying eggs while they are molting. A sudden decrease in egg production can actually be a signal that molting is about to begin, weeks before you even observe any feather loss! Always pay attention to your chickens egg-laying behaviors, since a halt in laying can also signal potential health issues – like being egg bound. In the case of molting though, not laying eggs is totally normal and part of their natural self-defense to conserve nutrients and stay healthy during a molt. 

Because they are not laying eggs, molting chickens will eat less of their free-choice calcium during this time too. Free-choice should remain out and offered for those that are still actively laying. If you have any questions about providing calcium to laying hens, be sure to read this article. It is essential for their health!


We love having this reliable autodoor on our chicken coop, which lets the girls in and out of their protected run each morning and night.


How to Care for a Molting Chicken: Extra Protein

Did you know that feathers are made of the same material that forms our nails and hair? Yep! Keratin. Feathers are made of this very light-but-strong type of protein. This means when they’re going through the difficult task of growing back new feathers, molting chickens need more protein than they otherwise would. A normal layer feed consists of about 16% protein, while molting chickens will benefit from a diet of up to 20% protein. 


Here are a few ways to increase the protein intake for molting chickens:


  • Provide protein-rich treats such as scrambled eggs, seedy treat squares, canned tuna, and fresh or dried mealworms and grubs. No, it is not bad to feed chickens eggs! In nature, wild chickens commonly eat their own eggs as a food source. I do suggest providing cooked eggs though, to prevent them from developing an egg-eating habit – which can be hard to break!

  • Black oil sunflower seeds (aka BOSS) are another excellent source of protein. Furthermore, they contain methionine, which is an important amino acid for birds and helps with feather re-growth.

  • While our chickens are molting, we also give them helpings of sprouted seeds once or twice per week. Even more than whole seeds, the nutrients, enzymes, and proteins in sprouted seeds are enhanced and are readily digestible. See this article to see how easy it is to spout seeds for chickens!
  • If you choose to rely on “treats” alone to increase their protein, aim to provide them at least a few times per week – or better yet, every day if you can! Dried mealworms and BOSS are the quick and easiest options for busy work days. And trust me, you won’t hear the girls complaining!

  • Yogurt is a popular treat suggestion in chicken circles, but we recently learned that chickens lack the right enzymes to properly digest dairy. Therefore, it can give them diarrhea and actually reduce the nutrients they’re absorbing. So for a little boost of probiotics, we give our girls a glob of discarded sourdough starter about once a week.
  • Some chicken keepers switch their feed during molting season, from a layer feed to a higher-protein grower or broiler feed. If you choose to go this route, avoiding making a sudden switch in feeds. Instead, slowly mix the feeds together over the course of a week – gradually increasing the ratio of new feed to current feed. Follow the same transition when you switch back.

  • Don’t be alarmed if you witness your chickens gobbling up their own fallen feathers. They are a great source of protein, after all! However, take that as a signal that they may not be getting enough elsewhere.

A hand is holding a bowl filled with scrambled eggs and dried meal worms while two chickens peer over the edge of the bowl at its contents. Another chicken is in the background who will soon be alerted of the protein rich treat soon. Protein helps chickens molt easier and it gives them the nutrients needed for feather regrowth. There is a raised stone island with trailing rosemary hanging over one section of it.
Giving the girls some scrambled eggs and mealworms while they’re molting. Zoey, who isn’t molting, just gets to enjoy being spoiled!


What if my chicken is molting during the winter?

In an ideal world, your chickens will all molt during the fall when the temperatures are still moderately comfortable. However, this may not always be the case! If you live in a climate that experiences harsh, freezing winters, and also have molting chickens on your hands, it can be a little extra stressful – for everyone involved! They just lost part of their natural down jacket after all.

Do keep feeding them their extra protein to encourage quicker feather growth. Do not put a sweater on a molting chicken! Remember, they’re already uncomfortable and don’t want to be touched. A sweater will only make it worse. Inside the coop, provide additional insulation like layers of straw or wood shavings. In extreme situations, you could consider heating your coop or providing a heat lamp – but always follow safety precautions! Another tip is to tuck the molting girls between larger, fully-feathered birds at night. There’s nothing like a group cuddle to stay warm.


What to do with molted chicken feathers?

When I see chicken feathers, I see one thing: fertilizer! In addition to being protein-rich, feathers have a very high nitrogen content. There is such a thing as “feather meal” fertilizer after all! Therefore, we don’t want them to go waste. A good amount of our flock’s lost feathers will stay littered about the yard, allowed to decompose in place and feed the fruit trees. On the other hand, I like to scoop up the massive amounts of feathers that collect in the coop and run – and add them to our compost pile! Similarly, I gather up any large piles that form in the yard, such as those that get blown into a corner together. 


A closeup of a compost pile is shown, a hole has been made in the pile and chicken feathers have been added to it. Once the feathers are covered, they will start to break down and will provide nitrogen and other nutrients for the compost.
A nice pile of nitrogen being added to the compost pile.


And that is the scoop on molting.

Don’t worry! With time and a little help from you, your chickens will be back to their normal selves in no time. Actually, they’ll be even fluffier, fuller, and prettier than before – better than new! Sometimes their feather color patterns even change a bit after each molt. And yes, the eggs will be back soon too! Though practice patience there, as it may take several weeks after they appear fully-feathered to start laying again.


Don’t miss out on these related articles:



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Sprouted Seeds: A Healthy Treat for Your Backyard Chickens… or You! https://homesteadandchill.com/sprouted-seeds-backyard-chickens/ https://homesteadandchill.com/sprouted-seeds-backyard-chickens/#comments Fri, 12 Jul 2019 00:42:01 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=7022 We all know that chickens should only be given "treats" in moderation, but sprouts don't count! Come learn how easy it is to sprout and feed your backyard chickens this very healthy treat, providing them much-needed greens and nutrients.

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Do you love your precious backyard dinosaurs? I mean, chickens…? Do you want to keep them healthy and happy? Then you should spoil them with sprouted seeds and grains on occasion! We sprout seeds for our chickens at least once a week, if not more. It only takes a few days for most seeds to sprout, and is super easy to do! From what I have heard, they’re pretty cluckin’ good too.

Come read along to learn just how simple it is to sprout seeds to feed your chickens! We’ll go over what types of legume, grain, and other seeds we sprout for our flock, and why sprouts are so good for them. After you read the stellar health benefits of sprouts, you’ll probably want some for yourself too – so I will also touch on how to safely sprout seeds destined for human consumption. 



Why Feed Sprouted Seeds to Chickens?


Chickens are always hungry – acting like they haven’t seen food in eons! I don’t know who invented the game “Hungry Hungry Hippos”, but they missed the mark on that one. Hungry Hungry Chickens would have been far more fitting! Chickens also have a rather diverse taste palate, and enjoy picking at (or gobbling down) a wide variety of foods. However, just because they will eat damn near anything – doesn’t mean they should! 

“Treats”, referring to anything outside of their specially-formulated layer feed, are recommended only in moderation. Meaning, we really shouldn’t be tossing them kitchen scraps all day long. I know this can be hard not to do, since the way to a chicken’s heart is definitely through their beak! But we don’t want to throw off their nutritional balance. Thankfully, sprouted seeds are one treat you don’t have to worry about “overdoing”! 

So why not take seed and grain ingredients that are already in their food (or similar), and turn them into something fun, different, and even healthier for them to enjoy? This is also an excellent way to provide some much-needed nutrition and “greens” for chickens that don’t have other grass or fodder to graze on. 

Ultimately, all of the supercharged nutrients the chickens gain by consuming sprouts will be passed on to their eggs – and you! In other words, you’ll have some of the most fresh, nutrient-dense, healthy eggs, ever!



If you’re curious, we feed our chickens this organic “Naturally Free” whole grain layer feed by Scratch and Peck.


A close up image of the sprouted seeds in the jar being held by and outstretched arm. The chickens are surrounding the jar for inspection, trying to get to the seeds held within. The ground is mulched with bark and there is filtered sunlight in the background casting rays of sun on the ground.
They know the good stuff is coming.


The Health Benefits of Sprouted Seeds


Have you noticed how popular microgreens and sprouts are these days, utilized as a health food? Well, there is a good reason for it! Sprouting barley, peas, beans, alfalfa, sunflowers, and other seeds vastly increases their nutrient density. During the sprouting process, enzymes within the seeds are activated and enhanced far beyond what you find in the raw seed, or even what would be in the future mature vegetable or plant for that matter. 

Studies show that a germinated seed (sprout) can have up to 4,000 times the concentration of enzymes and antioxidants than the un-sprouted seed! Similarly, the sprouts of grains, legumes, nuts, beans, and seeds also contain far more protein, vitamins, minerals, and available fiber than their seed form. Furthermore, the proteins in sprouts may also be easier to digest. This is because the sprouting process appears to reduce the amount of anti-nutrients — compounds that decrease your body’s ability to absorb nutrients from the plant — by up to 87%!

Essentially, the sprout stage is the healthiest state that you could ever consume that item. The ideal sprout length is anywhere from 1/8-inch to 2 inches long. Once a sprout grows beyond 2 inches, it is considered a seedling, micro greens, or “fodder”, and is slightly less nutritious.


Types of Seeds to Sprout for Chickens


We sprout a variety of organic seeds for our girls! We often have a few different types on hand, since we use many of these to make sprouted seed tea for our plants on occasion too. You can read more about sprouted seed teas here. 


Here are some of our favorites sprouting seeds:


IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: You know that raw and dried beans are toxic to chickens, right? Thankfully, the process of cooking or sprouting destroys the hemaglutin toxin, but we still avoid large beans (like kidney beans) for sprouting – just in case. However, smaller legumes like mung beans and lentils are just fine, particularly once sprouted! 



HOW TO SPROUT SEEDS


We sprout our seeds in quart mason jar. This provides plenty of sprouted seeds our flock of four chickens! It is also the quickest, easiest, and mess-free way to do it – with the assistance of these handy mason jar sprouting lids that are made just for this task! We like that our lids are food-grade stainless steel, but there are tons of other sprouting lids out there too!

On the other hand, if you have a bigger flock of chickens and need to sprout more, you can apply the same principles described below. Simply use a larger container, such as a bowl or bucket. Get creative with the screen lid for rinsing!


Step 1: Soak


Add anywhere from a couple heaping tablespoons up to one cup of your seed of choice to the bottom of a clean mason jar. The amount will vary depending on the size of your jar, and how many sprouts you want to create. Do not fill the mason jar more than a quarter full though. The seeds will greatly expand as they sprout, filling up the jar!

Next, add some tepid water to the jar – enough to cover the sprouts by several inches. Set the jar on your countertop, and allow the seeds to soak submerged in water for 8 to 12 hours. 


A two way image collage, the first image is a quart size mason jar sitting atop a wooden cutting board that has various knots and wood grain. The jar is filled a 3rd of the way with barley, and red winter wheat seeds. The jar is also filled halfway with water and some of the seeds are floating. The jar has a typical mason jar ring on it but there is a mesh screen on top for a lid. The second photo shows a close up of the top of the jar, it shows the fine mesh screen that is made of metal.
Sprouting a combination of barley and wheat grass (hard red winter wheat berries).


Step 2: Rinse & Repeat


After the initial 8-12 hour soak, dump the water from the jar. This is where sprouting lids (or some other mesh cover) come in handy! Simply tip the jar upside down and let the water run out. Next, add more fresh water to the seeds. Swirl well to rinse. Dump the water again, draining as much as possible before setting it back on the counter. 

Now, repeat the process of rinsing and draining twice per day. Continue the routine until the seeds have sprouted to at least an ⅛ of an inch, but are preferably still shorter than 2 inches. Keep an eye out, because they change so quickly! Most of the seeds we sprout are ready within two to four days after their initial soak. 


A four way photo collage, the first photo shows the jar of seeds displayed in the same manner as before, it is a couple days after the initial soak and the seeds have begun to sprout. The second image is a close up of the just sprouted seeds in the jar, the lid has been taken off to show the inside of the jar. The third and fourth photos are exactly the same as the previous two, yet they were taken two days later and show the seeds have sprouted even more. The jar from the side looks like a plants root ball, sprouts spreading this way and that.
Day two versus day four in the sprouting process. They’re ready! Day three would have been perfect too. Not all of the grains were sprouted on day two.


Step 3: Feast Time!


Now it is time to give your spoiled chickens their sprouted seeds. They will go crazy for them. Our girls start pecking at the jar before I can even get them in to a bowl!

If you don’t feed them all of the sprouts at one time, store them in the refrigerator in the meantime. This keeps them fresh, and also halts their growth process – keeping thee sprouts at that desired stage and length. Use within one week. However, our girls always enjoy their full jar in one serving!


A close up image of a hand holding out the sprouted seeds for four chickens to eat. The chickens are of various colors, from black, white, red, brown, light brown, and some color in between. There is a stone planter nearby and one of the chickens is sitting atop this while trying to eat the sprouts from the hand. There is rosemary trailing over the sides of the planter and there are now a few of the sprouted seeds laying on the ground below from the chickens eating and flinging the seeds in excitement. One of the chickens is eating the seeds from the ground while the others are focused on the seeds that are remaining in the hand.



This all sounds so awesome! And easy! So….


What about Sprouting Seeds for Myself… A Human?


Yes, you can most certainly sprout seeds for yourself as well! However, there have been some cases of food-borne illness associated with raw sprouts. Because the sprouting process takes place in a warm and wet environment – the same conditions that things like E.Coli and Salmonella love and thrive in – it can be a little risky.


However, if you take some extra precautions, you can follow the same steps described above to safely make yourself some tasty sprouts as well:

  • Be sure to thoroughly clean and sanitize your supplies and hands. 
  • Only use food-grade seed and grains – in contrast to chicken grains. Duh, right? Most cases of food-borne illness originate with contaminated seeds, not necessarily bacteria introduced during sprouting. Therefore, look for certified pathogen-free sprouting seeds.
  • Rinse the grains thoroughly first, before soaking. Also rinse the sprouts more frequently than we do for our chickens, up to four times per day.
  • Ensure they sprouting jar is thoroughly drained after each rinse. Rather than setting your jar upright on the counter as we do when we’re sprouting for chickens, set your jar tilted upside down to continue to drain until the next rinse and dump. You could do this in a clean bowl, or using these inexpensive jar racks – made just for the job. 
  • Finally, be more cautious about where you are keeping your sprouting jar than if it were designated for chickens. Choose a sanitary location. 


After the sprouts have emerged to your desired length (shorter is best), give them a final good rinse and drain. Remove any unsprouted seeds, and store them in the refrigerator in a covered bowl. Use within one week, and avoid consuming discolored or off-odor sprouts. 

The most popular types of sprouting seeds for human consumption include mung beans, lentils, sunflower, peas, broccoli, and wheat berries. 


A close up image of two quart size mason jars upside down and diagonal. They are being held in this manner by a small wire rack of sorts which purpose is for holding sprouting jars in this manner. Inside the jars and green split peas or lentils that are beginning to sprout. They sit atop a wooden deck of sorts and the deck and jars are wet, as if it had been raining.



Yep! Sprouting seeds for chickens is really that simple. 


Enjoy those sprouted seeds, chick-chicks! Be sure to have your flock report back with a review of how much they enjoyed them. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and please share this post with all of your chicken-keeper friends!


Additionally, if you enjoyed this post, or are new to chicken-keeping, you may also find these articles useful:



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How to Feed Chickens Eggshells or Oyster Shells for Essential Calcium & Health https://homesteadandchill.com/feed-chickens-eggshells-calcium/ https://homesteadandchill.com/feed-chickens-eggshells-calcium/#comments Wed, 05 Jun 2019 01:19:44 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=5971 It is essential to provide laying hens with free choice calcium for healthy egg development, and to prevent serious health issues! Come learn how to properly provide eggshells or oyster shells as a calcium source for your flock.

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Oh, to be a laying hen and regularly produce eggs… It is a natural but somewhat tedious affair!  Some chickens lay eggs daily, some once per week or less, and some in between. Did you know that eggshells are made up of almost pure calcium? Yup, they sure are – nearly 100% calcium carbonate crystals!

The biological process of forming and laying an egg slightly depletes the hen of her calcium reserves. Without a way to replenish the calcium used, serious and even life-threatening conditions may result! For example, if a hen is not provided adequate free-choice calcium in her diet, and thus cannot properly form eggshells, she may lay soft-shell eggs, become dangerously egg-bound, or even have an egg break inside of her. Those scary scenarios deserve a post of their own (which I plan to write soon!) but for now, let’s focus on proactive prevention.


There are a couple of ways you can provide calcium to your laying chickens to keep them as healthy as possible. Two popular choices are to feed chickens eggshells and/or oyster shells. Let’s discuss those options, along with some best practices and things to avoid.


A diagram of an egg, which says "Anatomy of a Chicken Egg". The shell portion reads: Shell, made up of calcium carbonation, the same material as seashells, chalk, and limestone"
Photo via Egg Truth


Should I offer chickens crushed eggshells or oyster shells?


Wait… Back up. I can feed my chickens eggshells? Isn’t that like, cannibalism or something?  No! It certainly is not. It’s actually very common for chicken keepers to feed crushed eggshells back to their chickens. Furthermore, chickens are known to eat their own eggs and shells out in nature too. We like to mostly offer our girls eggshells – and that is what they happen to prefer as well! I’ll explain why as we go.

Crushed or flaked oyster shells are also available to buy, specifically for this purpose. When we first starting raising chickens, we bought a bag of oyster shells for our girls. Guess what? They wouldn’t touch them. Apparently, the large hard rocks of oyster shells for calcium were completely unappetizing to them. On the other hand, they absolutely love to gobble down crushed eggshells!  I have heard similar stories from many chicken-lady (or man) friends.

To choose oyster shells or egg shells as a calcium supplement is a personal decision – but one that your chickens may help decide for you!


Cost and Supply


Here is the deal: Eggshells are free! Why not make good use of a “waste” product, and not need to spend any money doing so? They seem to be what many chickens prefer to eat anyway. It sounds like a no-brainer, right? However, there is definitely a time and place where using oyster shells instead can come in handy.

One such instance when having oyster shells on hand may be necessary is when you’re running short on eggshells. Say you’re selling eggs, or regularly giving away dozens to friends. In that case, you probably will not have enough spare shells left to supply your flock enough calcium. Egg-laying chickens cannot go more than a few days without that additional calcium source, so you will need to supplement! (Unless you ask your friends to keep the shells and return them to you, which we have totally done.)

Thankfully, we recently found a thinner, flakier, tastier oyster shell than those old “oyster rocks” that our girls disliked so much in the past – one that they will actually eat! Now, we mix these oyster shells with their eggshells to bolster our supply when needed. Even when we aren’t “short”, we add a little oyster shell with their eggshells on occasion, simply to keep them accustomed to eating them.

An image of a pile of crushed flaked oyster shells with a white background.
Flaked oyster shells. Photo courtesy of Amazon


How & When to Provide Chickens Calcium


Whether you’re providing supplemental calcium via eggshells, oyster shells, or both, there are a few important health considerations you need to know about!


Age

First things first. Chickens should not be provided additional calcium until they’ve “come into lay” – that is, have begun to lay eggs, or are damn near ready to. Introducing excess calcium prematurely can actually harm young chickens and cause kidney damage. We generally put out eggshells after one of our young chickens begins to lay, even if the others that are the same age haven’t started yet. You could also begin to offer calcium when your girls start to exhibit the telltale signs that eggs are on the way.

As they mature, chickens need slightly less protein and a bit more calcium. If you pay attention to their labels, you’ll see this reflected in the content of their various stages of feed: chick or “starter”, grower, and layer feeds. Their food is formulated and adjusted accordingly. Thus, laying hens should always be fed a “layer” feed. If you are curious, we feed our chickens this organic layer feed by Scratch and Peck.


Let me decide!

Second, your flocks supplemental calcium source should always be offered as “free choice”. This means that it should NOT be mixed into their food or hidden in treats. Put the crushed eggshells or oyster shells in a separate dish, and keep it stocked and available at all times.

As shown below, we provide shells in a small hanging dish that easily attaches to fencing – with one in the yard, and one in their run. They graze on it as they please. Listening to their bodies, chickens somehow know when they are in need or not! Mixing an excess calcium source into their feed sort of tricks them into eating it, and can lead to “overdose” and health issues similar to if they consume too much too young.

Two chickens, one black and white and one brown and orange, are standing in front of a wire fence. Attached to the wire fence is small metal bowl with hooks, full of crushed eggshells for calcium. Some are spilled on the dirt below too. Succulent plants frame the image in the foreground.
Zoey and Ginger checking out a fresh serving of crushed eggshells. You can see they fling out some, but mostly the oyster shells! Picky picky.


How to Prepare Eggshells for Chickens


Crack an egg, fry it up, and toss the eggshell out in the yard for the birds… right? Not quite! Some folks may do it that way, but we prefer to take a couple extra (but easy!) steps before giving the shells to our chickens. How you choose to prepare your eggshells is ultimately up to you, but let me share how we do it.


Before feeding them back to the chickens, we prefer to bake and crush their eggshells first.


Why bake the eggshells first? Because baking the shells makes them safer for the chickens, by killing any potential bacteria lurking on them with heat. This is especially important if they were sitting around for a while after being cracked open.

Drying the shells in the oven also dries out the membrane, and makes the shells much easier to crush. Finally, it also changes the odor and flavor of the eggs. By doing so, it reduces the likelihood of your chickens associating the shells with the eggs that they lay – and developing a taste for them! It renders them distinct and unrecognizable as eggs. Egg-eating is an obnoxious and difficult habit to break once they start! Trust me… Ugh. Read more about how to prevent and stop egg-eating here.


We love having this reliable autodoor on our chicken coop, which lets the girls in and out of their protected run each morning and night.


Baking, crushing, & storing eggshells


As we use eggs, we save up the shells in a container in the back of the fridge. Keeping them refrigerated reduces bacterial growth, so we don’t bother rinsing them after cracking before storage. Then every month or two, we prepare a large batch. Waiting to bake many at once makes it much less of a hassle or frequent chore!


A close up of a hand holding a plastic tupperware container full of broken eggshells, being saved to bake and feed back to the chickens as calcium.
The container we keep in the fridge, filling it with shells as we consume eggs – until it is overflowing like this! Time to bake a batch.

Spread the shells on a cookie sheet or baking pan. They can get a little stuck and difficult to clean, so we use a cheap pan from a thrift store, dedicated for eggshells. Bake the shells on 300’F for 5 to 10 minutes. We generally do around 5 minutes if they’re already on the dry side, or for a smaller batch, and a bit longer for a large amount or when they’re still quite wet. Remove from the oven, and allow to cool.

Next, crush the shells to a consistency of your hens liking. Some folks grind them up very small, almost into a powder. We’ve found our girls like to peck at slightly larger pieces, about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.

To physically crush the shells, find whatever method works for you. It could be done right on the pan, in a jar, bowl, coffee grinder, food processor… hell, some people even use a mortar and pestle! We typically throw all the baked shells in a designated, re-used, large ziplock bag and then crush the contents with a rolling pin or our hands. A zero-waste, plastic-free option is to do the same in an old pillow case or cloth bag – which is what I plan to try next batch!

Finally, we store the crushed eggshells in jars in the fridge. As needed, we replenish their little dishes outside – so that they’re never without.

A close up of a hand holding a glass pint jar, which is filled with crushed flaky colorful brown and blue eggshells, a source of calcium for chickens.
The final product.


It is as simple as that.


Isn’t it crazy to think that such a small act plays such a significant role in keeping your chickens healthy? Providing a little calcium can save their lives! Literally.


If you’re reading this, I assume that you have (or will soon have) chickens. But if you don’t, you can still save your eggshells! Crush and add them to your compost pile, worm bin, or straight into your garden soil as a natural amendment. The extra calcium is appreciated there too!


I hope you found this post helpful! If you’re interested in more chicken-related articles, you may enjoy:


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