Follow along to learn how to make blown egg ornaments. This step-by-step tutorial will show you how to ‘blow out’ a raw egg to empty its contents. Then we’ll go over how to string it up to hang, and several ideas on how to customize the ornament with a little decorative flair. The process is quite easy, but does require a gentle touch and a sharp object – so be ready to give the kiddos a helping hand!

Supplies Needed to Make Blown Egg Ornaments

• Egg(s)
• Tape – such as packing tape, masking tape, or scotch tape
• Thumbtack, safety pin, and/or a skinny nail
• Twine, hemp, ribbons, or other string to both hang and decorate the egg
• Slender but stiff wire
• Optional: mini jingle bells, charms, gems, beads, buttons, and other cute adornments. I usually find these goodies at our local Michael’s craft store. Or, in the depths of my home craft supply stash and jewelry box. Incorporating the chicken’s feathers would be super adorable too!
• Optional: super glue 
  

Step 1: Make Holes in the Egg

• I like to work over a kitchen towel as I make blown egg ornaments. It provides a soft cushion, and will catch any accidental messes.
  
  
• First, wash and dry your egg of choice (or several). If you know your backyard chicken eggs well, choose ones with healthy firm shells. It isn’t easy to make blown egg ornaments with thin-shelled eggs… trust me! 
  
  
• Apply a layer of tape over each end of the egg. You can use clear tape or masking tape, but avoid super-sticky duct tape. The tape helps to prevent the egg from cracking as you poke holes in each end.
  
  
• Gently press a thumbtack into one end of the egg. I find it helps to twist the tack back and forth a bit (almost like a screw) to make a tiny indent in the surface of the eggshell and tape first, and then apply gentle pressure to push it in.
  
  
• Repeat the process on the opposite end of the egg.
  
  
• Now, gently widen each hole to a few millimeters to 1/8″ (fellow gardeners: about the size of a beet or Swiss chard seed). If the holes are too tiny, it’s nearly impossible to blow the inside contents of the egg out, and also more difficult to get string through. I usually keep the bottom hole (the one I will blow from) slightly smaller than the top hole (the end the egg contents will come out of).  Either work the thumbtack around inside the hole, or insert something slightly larger – such as a nail. Sometimes I find the need to gently chip away at the edges of the hole to make it wider. It’s okay if the hole is a little ragged! We’re going to cover it up anyways.
  
   
• Other ways to make a hole in an eggshell include using a small drill bit, a nail, or safety pin.

Step 2: Blow Out the Egg

• Before you blow out the egg, it’s best to break up the egg yolk inside. Insert a wire, toothpick, open paperclip, or other long skinny object into one of the holes and poke around a bit. Use a clean poking device if you intend to keep the egg to consume!
  
  
• Rinse the egg off again if the holes have become gooey by this point.
  
  
• Now, it’s time to blow! Poise the egg over a bowl or the sink, put your mouth over the smaller hole on the egg (make a seal), and blow air into the egg. If you’re not keen on putting your mouth right on it, you can cut a short piece of straw to put between your mouth and the egg. I don’t mind putting my mouth on it (and we don’t use plastic straws) so I just make sure to rinse my lips and mouth afterward.
  
  
• As you blow, egg material should come out the bottom hole. I’ve gotta admit: it’s strangely satisfying. It will also take a good amount of strong breath, so don’t make yourself dizzy! Take breaks and deep breaths as needed. If you’re blowing and the egg matter isn’t coming out, go back and gently widen one hole if needed. Blowing too hard without any release could cause the egg to break.
  
  
• After the egg contents are emptied from the shell, run warm water into the hole, swish it around to rinse out the inside, and blow out the water. Repeat a few times. Now you’re left with a nice clean shell, ready to be turned into a proper blown egg ornament!
  
  
• If the tape over the ends is still intact, you could leave it there to protect the holes for the next step. Mine usually comes loose by now so I gently remove it.

Step 3: Insert String (and/or Wire)

• Next we need to get the egg strung up and ready to hang! There are many clever ways to hang a blown egg ornament, so feel free to get creative here. I’ll show you how I do it with string, but you can use ribbon, fishing line, or wire alone. You could even loop a button to the bottom to hold it in place instead of tying a knot.
  
  
• Using my string of choice, I use tape to attach the end of the string to the end of a piece of firm straight wire. The wire helps to guide the string through one hole and out the other side of the eggshell. It is key to use only a small bit of tape and wrap it very tightly in order to keep everything skinny enough to fit through the holes.
  
  
• Gently insert the string and wire through the smaller hole, and guide it through the egg to exit out the larger hole.
  
  
• At this point, I typically tie a double or triple knot in the string that is sticking out the bottom side of the egg, leaving a few inches of string at the bottom to attach charms to (or, snip off the excess later).
  
  
• Then I pull the string up from the top end of the egg, so the bottom knot is flush against the bottom hole, and apply a bit of superglue around the knot and hole. This step is optional, but it helps prevent the egg from cracking further and keeps the knot from coming undone over time.
  
  
•  Finally, create a knot and loop at the top of the egg with the remaining string. I add a bit of glue to that hole and knot as well. Sometimes I tie an additional decorative ribbon into a bow around the top knot.  

Step 4: Adorn & Hang

Now, decorate your blown egg ornament however you see fit! Add mini jingle bells, charms, crystals, ribbons, or other crafty items to give it some pizazz. You could even repurpose old children’s or costume jewelry, or glue things right to the egg itself if you wish. Have fun and get creative!

If the string or twine loop isn’t long enough as-is, add an ornament hook to hang it on your holiday tree. At the end of the season, we simply wrap our precious blown egg ornaments in tissue paper or bubble wrap, and tuck them into a small dedicated box that we store with our other ornaments. 

And that is how you make blown egg ornaments.

Aren’t they absolutely adorable? We’ve had a few very special chickens in the past, and I cherish these beautiful keepsakes. I hope you enjoy creating your own blown egg ornaments too! Please let me know if you have any questions. Also, don’t be too hard on your self if you accidentally break an egg on your first try. I definitely did!

I would love to see your egg ornaments, so be sure to tag me on Instagram (@deannacat3) if you share them there. Finally, please spread the love by sharing or pinning this article. We appreciate you tuning in today. Have fun, and happy holidays!

Other crafty projects to try:

• DIY Rice Heating Pad (or Cold Pack)
• How to Make a DIY Beeswax Fall Leaf Garland
• 17 Wonderful Winter Garden Activities (Projects) To Do Indoors
• How to Make Beeswax Food Wraps
• DIY Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• Homemade Fruit and Veggie Stamped Kitchen Towels

Print

Handmade Blown Egg Ornaments

Follow this step-by-step tutorial to make blown egg ornaments. This is a fun holiday craft project, and a super special way to keep eggs from your favorite chickens. Or, use local eggs and add little homestead flair to your holiday decor!

Keyword blown egg, blown egg ornament, egg ornmanent

Craft Time 45 minutes minutes

Equipment

• Tape – such as packing tape, masking tape, or scotch tape
• Thumbtack, safety pin and/or small nail
• String, twine, or ribbon
• Slender but stiff wire
• Optional: mini jingle bells, charms, gems, beads, buttons, and other cute adornments
• Optional: super glue

Ingredients

• Egg(s)

Instructions

• Cover each end of a clean egg with tape.
• Gently twist and press a thumbtack (or similar) into each end of the egg through the tape, creating a two small holes. Gently widen each hole to several millimeters, up to 1/8".
• Working over a sink or bowl, place your mouth or a straw over the smaller hole, create a seal, and blow out the egg contents.
• Rinse the egg out with warm water, and "blow out" the extra water too.
• Use wire to guide a string through the egg, and tie a knot at each end – snug against the egg. Create a loop in the string on top.
• Optional: use superglue to seal around the holes in the egg (to prevent further cracking) and to permanently secure the knots.
• Decorate the egg as you wish, adding charms, gems, buttons, feathers, mini jingle bells, and more!

The post How to Make Blown Egg Ornaments appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Read along to learn how to prevent and stop chickens from eating their own eggs. Egg-eating isn’t as unnatural as you think – chickens sometimes eat their own eggs in the wild! Yet it can also be a signal that there is a serious issue in your backyard flock, and therefore shouldn’t go ignored. Egg-eating can also make a big sticky mess of their nesting box or feathers, and attract pests. If you rely on fresh eggs as a source of self-sufficient food or income, having an egg-eating chicken in your flock can be detrimental!

 Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links to products for your convenience, such as to items on Amazon. Homestead and Chill gains a small commission from purchases made through those links, at no additional cost to you.

9 Ways to Stop Chickens from Eating Their Eggs

1) Assess their diet

Chickens eating eggs could be a sign that they are experiencing a nutritional deficiency or imbalance. Eggs are loaded with protein, and the shells are made up of almost pure calcium. These two things are essential to a chicken’s diet and overall good health. If chickens aren’t getting enough of either, they may turn to eating their own eggs to compensate. 

Ensure your chickens are consuming adequate protein by providing a chicken feed that is formulated for laying hens. Most layer feed contains 16 to 18% percent protein. We often ferment our chicken feed, which provides probiotics and increases nutrient absorption too!

Also, limit treats to an occasional basis only. We give our girls leafy greens from the garden, but also incorporate plenty of protein-rich treats like mealworms, black oil sunflower seeds, or home-sprouted seeds and grains. You can also scramble up some eggs to feed back to your chickens.

2) Promote healthy, strong eggshells

Laying hens need a regular supply of free choice calcium available to them at all times. This is crucial! Because eggshells are so high in calcium themselves, laying hens need to consume a substantial amount of supplemental calcium to lay hard, healthy eggs with firm shells. 

Chickens may eat eggs if they aren’t getting enough calcium elsewhere. Insufficient calcium intake can also lead to soft-shelled eggs or thin shells, which are more likely to crack – and then entice even the healthiest, curious chickens to eat eggs! Even worse, too little calcium can cause a chicken to become egg-bound. Therefore, offering additional calcium is a great way to prevent egg-eating behavior as well as illness.

Either purchase crushed oyster shells, or save and crush their own eggshells. Offer calcium in a dish separate from their food; they eat what they need (and too much calcium can harm them too). I know what you may be thinking… Doesn’t feeding chickens their own eggshells make them more likely to eat eggs? No, the vast majority of experienced chicken keepers say it does not. We bake and crush the eggshells before feeding them, which kills potential bacteria and also changes the odor and flavor of the shells… just in case. 

Related: How to Feed Chickens Crushed Eggshells (or Oyster Shells) for Essential Calcium

3) Collect eggs often

Chickens can’t eat eggs that aren’t there! Don’t let eggs sit in the nesting boxes for an extended period of time. Collect eggs as often as your schedule permits (up to several times per day) – especially if you’re trying to break egg-eating behavior that has already developed. A big pile of eggs is just begging to be messed with, and can increase the likelihood of your chickens becoming broody. There is also a greater chance for eggs to crack and break when they’re laid on top of one another. 

4) Provide cushioned nesting areas

Have you ever seen a hen lay an egg? Even though they sit down for quite a while beforehand, they stand up and squat when the egg comes out, so it has to fall several inches before it hits the ground! If the bottom of the nesting box is hard and exposed, the egg could break – and one broken egg may be all it takes for a chicken to develop a taste for them.

Line the bottom of the coop nesting boxes with soft material for the eggs to land on. We use these durable nesting box pads, and usually add a layer of straw or hay on top for them to dig around in too. If an egg does break, clean it up quickly!

5) Dummy eggs in nest box

If your chickens begin to peck at their own eggs, try putting a hard dummy egg or two inside the nesting boxes. Golf balls or these fake wood eggs work well! When they go to take a peck, they’ll find the “egg” impenetrable – and will hopefully give up trying to peck the real eggs too. Placing fake eggs inside the nesting box is also an effective way to train young chickens on where to lay eggs.

6) Nest box curtains (dark or dim nesting area)

Did you know that chickens can’t see in the dark? That’s why they instinctively head into the coop to roost at dusk. So, they are far less likely to peck and eat eggs that they can’t see well. One way to darken the nesting box area is to install nest box curtains. This trick was the most successful measure to stop our chickens from eating eggs!

You can create cute little mini-curtains on rods, or do something as simple as pin old fabric napkins or cut pillowcases in front of the nest box opening. Valance curtains are already about the right height, and can easily be cut and hemmed into shorter sections.

When first installed, you may need to keep the curtains pulled or pinned partially open until your chickens get used to them. Later, we found that leaving ours completely closed was the most effective at stopping the egg eating. They push right past them to get in and out.

7) Soap and mustard 

Wait, what did I just eat?! Apparently chickens hate the taste of mustard. Plus, who would want to eat soap? Not our birds. Another old trick used to stop chickens from eating eggs is to fill an empty eggshell with dish soap and mustard (which also happens to mimic the look of gooey egg whites and yolk).

Use an egg that has been pecked with a small hole, empty it out, fill it up, and put it back in the nesting box for your egg-eating chicken to try. Or, carefully blow out an egg to fill. Hopefully the nasty surprise will turn them off for good!

8) Provide plenty of space and entertainment

Keeping your flock happy and entertained is a fantastic way to both prevent and stop chickens from eating eggs. Bored, crowded, or otherwise unhappy birds are far more likely to start pecking at eggs – and each other! Provide roosts, ample space, and boredom-busters such as hanging treat blocks, chicken swings, or hanging cabbage ‘tether balls’ to keep them busy. 

9) Roll-away or sloped nest boxes

A final measure to stop chickens from eating eggs is to make the eggs disappear altogether. When all else fails, you could create sloped nesting boxes where the eggs roll away and out of beak’s reach after they’re laid. I consider this a last resort – not because it is extreme, but because modifying your perfectly good chicken coop could be a pain in the butt! Yet so are egg-eating chickens… so if necessary, new-and-improved nest boxes may be the solution.  

And that concludes the top tricks to prevent or stop an egg-eater.

All in all, do your best to prevent your chickens from eating eggs in the first place – with a healthy diet, frequent egg gathering, and ample space to play. If they do start pecking at eggs, I hope these tips help you quickly nip that bad habit in the bud! As we did, you may need to try several techniques to stop egg-eating behavior before you find something that works. Be patient and persistent.

Please feel free to share your experience or ask questions in the comments below, and spread the knowledge by sharing this article. Thank you for tuning in!

Don’t miss these related articles:

• Feed Chickens Crushed Eggshells or Oyster Shells for Essential Calcium
• How to Store & Wash Fresh Backyard Chicken Eggs
• Help, My Chicken Is Molting! How to Care for Molting Chickens
• 10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool During Summer (or Heat Waves)
• 10 Tips on Caring for Chickens in Cold Winter Weather
• How to Make Fermented Feed for Chickens

The post Chickens Eating Eggs? 9 Ways to Prevent or Stop It appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Farm fresh and backyard chicken eggs are remarkably different from eggs you buy in stores in a number of ways! Their deep golden yolks and unique variety of eggshell colors may catch your attention first. More often than not, fresh eggs have superior flavor, texture, and thicker eggshells – all due to the higher quality of care and nutrition that small farm and backyard chickens receive over large-scale poultry operations. Last but not least, fresh eggs are not processed in the same manner as commercial eggs. This means you can wash and store fresh eggs differently than store-bought eggs.

What is the best way to store fresh eggs? Do you have to wash backyard chicken eggs? Do fresh eggs need to be refrigerated? How long are eggs good for? This article will answer all of those questions – and more! 

Can I store fresh eggs at room temperature?

Yes, unwashed freshly-laid eggs from backyard chickens or a local farm can safely be stored at room temperature for several days or even a couple of weeks. We love to display some of our hen’s gorgeous collection of eggs in a wire basket or ceramic egg tray on the counter! However, this only applies to unwashed fresh eggs.

Washed eggs must be stored in the refrigerator, including those from your backyard flock or the store. If you purchase local eggs at a farmers market or farm stand, ask if the eggs have been washed and/or if they need to be refrigerated. When in doubt, store eggs in the fridge. 

Curious why?

The Protective “Bloom”, Fertilization, & Pasteurization

During the process of laying an egg, a hen’s body deposits a natural protective coating on the outside of the eggshell – commonly known as the “egg bloom”. In more scientific terms, the egg cuticle is a layer of protein that covers the surface of the egg, effectively sealing the otherwise porous shell.

As the University of Edinburgh explains, “the cuticle prevents bacteria from entering the egg and forms its first line of defense against infection.” It is the hen’s innate way of protecting her chicks during development inside a fertilized egg. The bloom also helps to keep unfertilized eggs fresh longer, preventing both the loss of moisture and the introduction of contamination. Don’t worry, a fertilized egg will NOT continue developing on your countertop and can be treated just like other eggs.

When eggs are washed the bloom is also washed away, thus leaving the eggs more susceptible to spoiling – particularly when stored at room temperature. In the commercial egg industry, eggs are washed and also pasteurized. Pasteurization is the process of rapidly heating eggs to a certain temperature and time to kill bacteria, and is required by the USDA for all commercial egg products sold in the US. It kills pathogens present at the time of pasteurization, but provides no long-term protection.

That is why it is considered a food safety best practice to store eggs that have been washed in the refrigerator – pasteurized or not, store-bought or home-raised. However, note that we are especially cautious here in the United States. In other parts of the world, it is not uncommon to store eggs at room temperature – even in grocery stores!

When to wash fresh backyard chicken eggs

In general, I recommend waiting to wash your fresh eggs until right before you use them. That is, unless they are soiled with poop, mud, or otherwise in need of a good rinse. In that case, wash dirty eggs but then store them in the refrigerator thereafter. Otherwise, avoiding washing eggs right after you collect them will extend their shelf life and freshness, whether you store them at room temperature or in the fridge. I know many backyard chicken keepers who don’t wash their eggs at all!

To wash our eggs, we simply rinse and rub them under warm water. There is no need for harsh soaps, vinegar or bleach!

Keeping backyard chicken eggs clean

To prevent eggs from getting dirtied up, do your best to keep the hen’s nesting boxes clean. Discourage sleeping (ahem… and pooping) in the nesting boxes by providing suitable sleeping roosts above the height of the nest boxes. Their natural instinct is to sleep as high above the ground as possible. Also collect eggs daily, or even a couple times per day depending on your schedule and flock size!

If your chickens are prone to laying eggs in random places, help train them where to lay by placing wood dummy eggs inside the nest boxes. They want to lay where eggs already are! Finally, change out soiled nest box bedding material as needed. We use these nesting box pads with a little layer or straw or hay on top. The straw can be changed out for a small mess, or swap the whole pad for a deeper clean.

How long can you store fresh eggs at room temperature?

Various resources say to store fresh eggs at room temperature for no more than 2 to 3 weeks. However, the recommendation doesn’t stem from food safety alone – but more so to maintain optimal eating quality. As eggs age, their protein structure degrades. This causes older egg whites to become more runny, and the yolks to stand less round and tall. Eggs stored at room temperature will degrade more quickly than those stored in the refrigerator. The warmer your home is, the more this is true. Therefore, I recommend storing eggs at room temperature for about a week – and only a few days if it is very hot and humid.

We usually keep a small collection of eggs out on the counter, both for convenience and simply to admire them. If we add eggs to the basket more quickly than we use them, we do our best to rotate the oldest eggs (after a week) into the refrigerator. We also try to consume older eggs first. Using an egg skelter instead of a basket makes it easier to keep track of which eggs are new or old.

Keep in mind that we have a small flock of four chickens, and a couple of them are only sporadic layers. Thus, this rotation method is manageable for us. If you have a large flock and ample egg supply, it may be best to store the majority of your fresh eggs in the refrigerator after collecting them.

How long are fresh eggs good when stored in the refrigerator?

Storing fresh eggs in the refrigerator significantly increases their shelf life. It is perfectly fine to store unwashed fresh eggs in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 months! Washed eggs will lose moisture and quality sooner, but may still be safe to consume within that same timeframe. Because washed eggs are more porous, it is best to store them in an enclosed container within the refrigerator to reduce moisture loss and also the absorption of off-odors or bacteria. 

Once eggs are refrigerated, they should be kept in the refrigerator, washed or not. According to the USDA, “a cold egg left out at room temperature can sweat, facilitating the movement of bacteria into the egg and increasing the growth of bacteria”. Therefore, refrigerated eggs should not be left out for more than 2 hours at room temperature. 

Other Tips for Storing Eggs

It is best to store eggs with their round end up and pointy end facing down. There is an air sac within the rounded end. When the air sac is on top, it acts like a little balloon of insulation and helps to reduce evaporation and additional moisture loss. 

Signs of Egg Freshness or Age: The Float Test

Did your egg rotation get mixed up, or aren’t sure which eggs are the most fresh? Try the float test! Fill a glass or bowl with cool water, and gently place the eggs in question inside. The freshest eggs will lay on the bottom of the glass. Eggs that are a few weeks old will stay on the bottom but “stand up” slightly. Middle-age eggs may partially float but stay submerged. The higher the egg floats, the older it is. Full-blown floaters are considered bad to consume. 

Moderately old eggs are still perfectly fine to use! Within reason, that is… I don’t suggest eating eggs that are more than a few months old, or those that completely fail the float test. Yet there are some real perks of using slightly older eggs for some things. For instance, just-laid eggs are incredibly difficult to peel. The shells stick to the whites and make an absolute hot mess out of hard-boiled eggs! On the other hand, older eggs peel much easier. We purposefully save and seek out eggs that are a few weeks old to make hard-boiled or steamed eggs.

Why are older eggs easier to peel? 

You know the air sac that I mentioned within the round end of the egg? Well, as a raw egg ages, the air sac or air cell inside gets larger. As it expands, it creates a small void between the eggshell membranes and thereby also makes the hard cooked egg easier to peel. It is the same reason why older eggs float! The enlarged air sac makes them more buoyant. 

Recap: Best Practices to Store Fresh Backyard Chicken Eggs

• Don’t wash the eggs until you use them, unless they’re soiled.
• Fresh unwashed eggs do not need to be refrigerated for several weeks.
• Always refrigerate washed eggs.
• Eggs will maintain a higher quality when stored in the refrigerator – washed or not. However, unwashed fresh eggs will keep the best.
• Once refrigerated, keep cold eggs in the fridge. 
• Keep track of your eggs. Rotate room temperature eggs into the refrigerator once a week. Use old eggs first. 
• Store eggs with their pointy end facing down.
• Older eggs are easier to peel, making them ideal for hard-boiling or steaming. 

Well, that was fun. Even I learned a few new things while putting together this article, so I hope you did too! Please feel free to ask questions, and help spread important food safety information by sharing this article. Enjoy those fresh eggs!

Don’t miss out on these related articles:

• When Do Chickens Start Laying Eggs? 5 Telltale Signs It’s Soon!
• Top 18 Chicken Breeds for Your Backyard Flock (information about egg colors and laying habits included)
• 10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool During Hot Summer Weather or Heat Waves
• Chickens Eating Eggs? 9 Ways to Prevent or Stop It
• Tips on Caring for Chickens During Cold Winter Weather
• Tangy Beet Pickled Eggs Recipe
• Feeding Chickens Eggshells or Oyster Shells for Essential Calcium

The post How to Store & Wash Fresh Eggs: Best Practices for Backyard Chicken Eggs appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Please enjoy our easy homemade beet pickled eggs recipe. They are tangy, savory, just a tad sweet, and as spicy as you want to make them! In addition to being delicious, beet pickled eggs are downright gorgeous. Naturally dyed with fresh beets, these bright pink and yellow eggs bring a spectacular pop of color to your plate. Beet pickled eggs make outstanding zesty deviled eggs, and the kids will be super excited to enjoy these as a unique and healthy snack!

INGREDIENTS

Per Quart Jar

• 9 to 11 large eggs. Though you may be able to squeeze up to a dozen in a quart jar, we typically use about 10 eggs to make our beet pickled eggs. That leaves enough room for the beets, brine, and other goodies too.
  
• 1 small to medium fresh beet. Using red beets will result in beautiful deep pink pickled eggs. I have also seen people use golden beets, creating bright yellow pickled eggs! A chioggia beet (white and pink) will result in a more muted light pink color. Some homemade beet pickled egg recipes call for canned beets, but we prefer using fresh.
  
• 2/3 cup distilled white vinegar
• 2/3 cup apple cider vinegar (organic and raw/unpasteurized preferred)
• 1/4 cup filtered water
• 1 teaspoon sea salt, kosher salt, or pickling salt (not iodized table salt)
• 1/2 tablespoon white cane sugar
• 4 to 6 cloves of garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
• A dash of black pepper
• Optional: fresh hot chili peppers, red chili flakes, celery seed, dijon mustard, and fresh red, white or yellow onion slices (described more below!) 

As you can see, our recipe doesn’t call for an excessive amount of sugar like many other beet pickled egg recipes do. The natural sweetness from beets and apple cider vinegar is plenty, in my humble opinion!

INSTRUCTIONS

Prep

• Wash, hard boil, and peel about a dozen eggs. 
  
  
• Pack the peeled eggs into a clean quart-size mason jar or similar container. I highly recommend using a glass container, as plastic may become stained and stinky, and most metal is not compatible with vinegar.
  
  
• Wash and grate the fresh raw beet. We use a box cheese grater, though you can also finely slice (julienne) the beets instead. Whether you choose to peel the beet first is up to you. Since we use homegrown beets with fairly tender skin, we often include the skin. If it is gnarly tough or difficult to get fully clean, you may want to remove it.
  

Brine & Season

• In a pot on the stovetop, combine all the other called-for ingredients: both types of vinegar, water, grated beet, salt, sugar, garlic, and black pepper. 
  
  
• Add other optional ingredients. We usually add a fresh hot chili pepper from the garden, cut in half and tucked into the jar with the eggs. The other optional ingredients are best mixed into the stovetop brine, such as 1 to 2 teaspoons of dijon mustard (highly recommended!), a dash or celery seed and/or red chili flakes, or a small handful of thinly-sliced fresh onion.
  
  
• Heat and lightly simmer the brine ingredients over medium heat for a few minutes (until the salt and sugar fully dissolve and everything seems well-combined). It should turn bright pink from the beets right away!

Assemble & Steep

• Allow the brine to cool slightly, and then pour it into the jar over the eggs. A warm brine is okay, though I avoid adding it when it is still piping hot. Make sure to get most of the beets in there! If the jar is getting full but there are still goodies in the pot, I give priority to adding as much grated beet as possible before topping off with liquid brine. Also, I like to keep a little pile of beets on top of the uppermost eggs, helping to keep the eggs submerged below the brine. If you happen to run out of brine, simply add another splash of your vinegar of choice to top the jar off. 
  
  
• Next, add a tight-fitting lid, and move the jar to the refrigerator right away. We like these stainless steel lids that have a silicone gasket to prevent leaks. Cooked eggs should not be left out at room temperature for more than 2 hours as a food safety best practice.
  
  
• Finally, let the beet pickled eggs sit and infuse for a few days (at minimum). The longer they steep, the deeper the beet color will get – and the more tangy pickled-flavor the eggs will become! After a few days in the fridge, the outermost layer of egg white will become pink. Given a week or more, the pink can penetrate all the way down to the yolk! We like to let our homemade beet pickled eggs to infuse for at least 5 to 10 days before digging in! Very large eggs can take up to two weeks to become fully seasoned.
  
  
• If some eggs are pressed up against the sides of the jar (leaving un-dyed white spots), or if any are floating up above the brine level, gently tip and shake the jar every couple of days to move things around. That is one added benefit of not over-packing the jar.

Enjoy!

After infusing for a few days in the refrigerator, it is time to enjoy your beet pickled eggs! We love to slice them to put on top of crusty homemade sourdough bread with hummus, avocado, cucumber, and/or cheese as a colorful open-face egg sandwich! Hint: they turn even brighter pink when broiled on toast! Beet pickled eggs also make some awesomely wicked deviled eggs. Finally, we enjoy them simply cut in half, sprinkled with a dash of salt and pepper, and snacked on plain! They bring a spunky pop of color to an hors d’oeuvres plate or cheese board.

Read below for storage information, “shelf-life”, safety, and other frequently asked questions.

Frequently Asked Questions about Homemade Pickled Eggs

How long do pickled eggs stay good for?

When made with a high-vinegar recipe (mostly or all vinegar brine) and stored in the refrigerator, homemade pickled eggs should stay good and safe to consume for several months. According to the National Center for Home Food Preservation, use refrigerated pickled eggs “within 3 to 4 months for best quality”.

We always use ours well within that time frame, usually within one or two months maximum – simply because we enjoy them so much! I suggest making your homemade pickled eggs in batches that you can reasonably consume within that time frame. You can always stagger batches and make more next month! If so, be sure to label your jars to keep them straight.

Can I store homemade beet pickled eggs at room temperature?

No. Homemade pickled eggs must be kept refrigerated at all times. This recipe isn’t for shelf-stable “canned” pickled eggs. While they are somewhat preserved in vinegar, it is not safe to keep cooked eggs out at room temperature for more than 2 hours (such as while serving and enjoying).

Should I use super fresh or older eggs to make pickled eggs?

That is up to you! There are minor pros and cons to both. Using fresh eggs ( straight from your backyard chickens) may result in a superior quality pickled egg. However, super fresh eggs can be more difficult to peel after hard-boiling or steaming than those that are a few days old. Therefore, we usually use eggs that are about 5 to 10 days old to make beet pickled eggs – or any hard boiled egg recipe, for that matter!

And that is how you make homemade beet pickled eggs.

What do you say? Are you feeling adventurous enough to try making your own homemade beet pickled eggs for the first time? Or, do you already make your own – and were simply stopping by for some new ideas? I’d love to hear any fun variations you can offer! In all, I hope you love this recipe as much as we do. Please let us know by coming back for a review, and spread the love by sharing this article. Enjoy!

Are you a pickle fan? Then don’t miss these awesome related recipes:

• Lacto-Fermented Radishes Recipe with Dill and Garlic
• Quick & Easy Refrigerator Pickled Peppers (vinegar brine)
• Probiotic-Packed Fermented Dilly Green Bean “Pickles”
• Simple Fermented “Pickled” Beets Recipe
  

Print

Tangy Beet Pickled Eggs Recipe (with Fresh Beets)

Course Appetizer, Party Food, Preserved Food, Side Dish, Snack

Keyword Beet pickled eggs, Pickled eggs, Preserved eggs

Prep Time 25 minutes minutes

Cook Time 5 minutes minutes

Steeping Time 5 days days

Servings 11 eggs (1 quart)

Ingredients

• 9-11 large eggs, hard-boiled and peeled
• 1 small to medium fresh red beet, raw and grated
• 2/3 cup distilled white vinegar
• 2/3 cup apple cider vinegar (raw, unpasteurized suggested)
• 1/4 cup filtered water
• 1 tsp sea salt, kosher salt, or pickling salt (not iodized table salt)
• 1/2 Tbsp white cane sugar
• 4-6 cloves of garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
• 1 dash black pepper
• Optional: fresh hot chili peppers, a sprinkle of red chili flakes or celery seed, 1-2 teaspoons of dijon mustard, and/or a handful of thinly-sliced fresh red, white or yellow onion slices

Instructions

Prep

• Wash, hard boil, and peel about a dozen eggs. 
• Pack the peeled eggs into a clean quart-size mason jar or similar glass container. (We add a fresh chili pepper in the jar with the eggs at this time)
• Wash and grate the fresh raw beet (or finely slice/julienne)

Create Brine

• In a pot on the stovetop, combine all the other called-for ingredients: both types of vinegar, water, grated beet, salt, sugar, garlic, and black pepper. Add other optional ingredients as desired.
• Heat and lightly simmer the brine ingredients over medium heat for a few minutes (until the salt and sugar fully dissolve and everything seems well-combined).

Assemble and Steep

• Allow the brine to cool slightly, and then pour it into the jar over the eggs. A warm brine is okay, though I avoid adding it when it is still piping hot. Make sure to get most of the beets in there! If you happen to run out of brine, simply add another splash of your vinegar of choice to top the jar off.
• Next, add a tight-fitting lid, and move the jar to the refrigerator right away. 
• Finally, let the beet pickled eggs sit and infuse for a few days (at minimum). The longer they steep, the deeper the beet color will get – and the more tangy pickled-flavor the eggs will become! Very large eggs can take up to two weeks to become fully seasoned. We usually let them sit in for 5-10 days before digging in.
• If some eggs are pressed up against the sides of the jar (leaving un-dyed white spots), or if any are floating up above the brine level, gently tip and shake the jar every couple of days to move things around.

Enjoy & Store

• Enjoy your beet pickled eggs any way you'd like – turned into deviled eggs, on a sandwich or toast, or simply snacked on plain!
• Maintain refrigerated at all times. Do not store at room temperature.
• Use refrigerated pickled eggs within 3 to 4 months for best quality.

The post Tangy Beet Pickled Eggs Recipe (with Fresh Beets) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Keep in mind that every chicken is different, and there is nothing you can do to rush them to grow up – so just be patient and enjoy the teenage years while they last. Be sure to check out the video of Phoebe laying an egg at the end of this post!

What age do chickens usually start laying eggs?

On average, young female chickens start laying eggs or “come into lay” around 6 months of age. Some chickens may start laying eggs as early as 16 to 18 weeks old, while others may take upwards of 28 to 32 weeks (closer to 8 months old)! Over the years, we have had some extra-early overachievers along with our fair share of late bloomers, but found that around 20 to 22 weeks was the most common age for our chickens to start laying eggs.

Learn 5 ways to tell the difference between young male and female chicks here.

Chicken breeds and egg-laying

In addition to age, the particular breed of your chickens will also influence when eggs start to arrive. Certain breeds of chickens are known to start laying eggs earlier than others, and each breed has their own average age range for egg development.

Chickens that have historically been bred for the purpose of egg production often start laying eggs sooner (as early as 17 or 18 weeks old), including Leghorns, Golden Comets, Sex Links, Rhode Island Reds, and Australorps. On the other hand, heavier breeds like Wyandottes, Orpingtons, and Barred Rocks are known to take a bit longer. Our Easter Egger ladies are always last to add their colorful eggs to the basket, which is a known trait for their breed. 

See our “Top 18 Backyard Chicken Breeds” article to learn more about different breeds, including heat and cold-hardiness, general demeanor, egg color and laying frequency.

Time of year and egg-laying

The majority of young chickens will start laying eggs the first year that you have them. Yet if you happen to get your chicks later in the year (summer or fall) and they come into maturity during darker, colder days of fall or winter, they may wait until the following spring to start laying eggs! Reduced daylight hours in the wintertime usually signals mature hens to take a natural break from laying eggs, conserving their energy and nutrients to brace for the cold winter ahead. During a winter cessation of laying, you’ll also notice the chicken’s combs and wattles become smaller and pale again, swinging with their hormones. However, it isn’t uncommon for young chickens to continue laying eggs right through their first winter! Then, they’ll probably take a break the following winter after that.

Curious to learn more about caring for chickens in cold weather, including tips for winterizing their coop? Check out this article all about winter chicken care. Please note that we don’t suggest lighting the coop to “force” chickens to continue to lay eggs through winter. Their bodies know best, and need a natural break.

5 SIGNS A CHICKEN WILL START LAYING EGGS SOON

1) Enlarged Reddening Combs and Wattles

As a young chicken matures, their combs and/or wattles become increasingly large. If this happens very early on (under 8 weeks old) it could be a sign that the chicken is a young rooster! On the other hand, young female chickens develop their combs and wattles more slowly. As her hormones shift and she gets ready to start laying eggs, her combs, wattles, and face will change from light pink to brighter red in color. They will also swell and become larger.

2) Start Exploring the Nesting Box Area

In the weeks leading up to the first egg, a young hen will usually start to show more interest in the nesting box area than ever before. She may even begin to test it out and sit inside, even if she isn’t quite ready to lay yet. One great way to encourage young chickens to lay eggs in their designated nesting boxes (as opposed to on the coop floor, or hiding them in the yard!) is to place false eggs inside the nest box. Chickens tend to like laying eggs in a clutch, where other eggs are. You could use specialty fake wood eggs, or what we’ve done in the past, golf balls!

3) She May Get Louder

Have you heard a chicken “egg song” yet? I find it funny that crowing roosters are banned in many urban areas, because hens can be damn vocal too! (Though I’ve read there is something more jarring and irritating about the tone of a rooster crow than hen songs to most people). Our chickens sing and squawk for hours before and after they lay an egg. So, before your young chickens start laying eggs, they may become increasingly talkative too.

4) Increased Appetite

As a young hen gears up to start laying eggs, her body will go through numerous changes – inside and out. The process of forming and laying eggs takes a lot of energy! So, you may notice your maturing chickens begin to eat more than usual. Laying hens have different nutritional needs than younger pullets or chicks. Younger birds eat “starter” and “grower” feeds that contain higher levels of protein to support their rapid growth. Layer feeds have slightly less protein, and a little extra calcium for proper eggshell formation. Therefore, gradually transition your chickens to a layer feed when they reach 18 weeks of age – or when the first egg arrives, whichever occurs first.

I also suggest putting out a source of free-choice calcium (such as crushed oyster shells or eggshells) either as soon as one hen starts laying eggs, or when you begin to notice the other tell-tale signs that eggs are coming soon. Check out this article to learn more about providing essential calcium for laying hens.

5) The Submissive Squat

Of all the signs that a chicken will start laying eggs soon, squatting behavior is the most telling in my opinion! As you walk by your young hen or reach out a hand to pet her, she may stop, squat, and put her wings out slightly to her sides. We lovingly call this “the submissive squat”.

Give the girl a good pet on the back, but keep in mind the biological reason for her squatting behavior isn’t about cuddling with humans! She is signaling that she is ready and willing to be mounted by a rooster to fertilize her forthcoming eggs. If there is no rooster around, she’ll submit to her human instead. Now, not every chicken will undoubtedly squat, but all of the girls in our flock did  – and started laying eggs within a week or two thereafter!

The moment you’ve been waiting for: the first eggs have arrived!

When chickens start laying eggs, their first eggs will be significantly smaller than what they’ll regularly lay as fully mature hens. Before you know it, you’ll have baskets full of beautiful large fresh eggs – right from your backyard.

In all, I hope this article helped to clue you in on the signs to watch for as your chickens get ready to lay. Be sure to thank your ladies for their hard work! Next, check out this article about best practices for storing and washing fresh backyard chicken eggs. Please feel free to ask any questions, or spread the love by sharing or pinning this article!

Just for fun, here is a video of our girl Phoebe laying an egg:

You may also enjoy these related articles:

• Backyard Chickens 101: What to Expect When You’re Expecting
• 10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool During Hot Summer Weather (or Heat Waves)
• Feeding Chickens Crushed Eggshells (or Oyster Shells) for Essential Calcium
• The Top 18 Chicken Breeds for Your Backyard Flock
• How to Make a Chicken Dust Bath: Easy DIY Ideas
• Chickens Eating Eggs? 9 Ways to Prevent or Stop It
• Baby Chick Care 101: Brooders, Health, Heat & More
• Caring for Chickens in Cold Winter Weather
• Sprouted Seeds: a Healthy Treat for Your Backyard Chickens

The post When Do Chickens Start Laying Eggs? 5 Tell-Tale Signs It’s Soon! appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

The biological process of forming and laying an egg slightly depletes the hen of her calcium reserves. Without a way to replenish the calcium used, serious and even life-threatening conditions may result! For example, if a hen is not provided adequate free-choice calcium in her diet, and thus cannot properly form eggshells, she may lay soft-shell eggs, become dangerously egg-bound, or even have an egg break inside of her. Those scary scenarios deserve a post of their own (which I plan to write soon!) but for now, let’s focus on proactive prevention.

There are a couple of ways you can provide calcium to your laying chickens to keep them as healthy as possible. Two popular choices are to feed chickens eggshells and/or oyster shells. Let’s discuss those options, along with some best practices and things to avoid.

Should I offer chickens crushed eggshells or oyster shells?

Wait… Back up. I can feed my chickens eggshells? Isn’t that like, cannibalism or something?  No! It certainly is not. It’s actually very common for chicken keepers to feed crushed eggshells back to their chickens. Furthermore, chickens are known to eat their own eggs and shells out in nature too. We like to mostly offer our girls eggshells – and that is what they happen to prefer as well! I’ll explain why as we go.

Crushed or flaked oyster shells are also available to buy, specifically for this purpose. When we first starting raising chickens, we bought a bag of oyster shells for our girls. Guess what? They wouldn’t touch them. Apparently, the large hard rocks of oyster shells for calcium were completely unappetizing to them. On the other hand, they absolutely love to gobble down crushed eggshells!  I have heard similar stories from many chicken-lady (or man) friends.

To choose oyster shells or egg shells as a calcium supplement is a personal decision – but one that your chickens may help decide for you!

Cost and Supply

Here is the deal: Eggshells are free! Why not make good use of a “waste” product, and not need to spend any money doing so? They seem to be what many chickens prefer to eat anyway. It sounds like a no-brainer, right? However, there is definitely a time and place where using oyster shells instead can come in handy.

One such instance when having oyster shells on hand may be necessary is when you’re running short on eggshells. Say you’re selling eggs, or regularly giving away dozens to friends. In that case, you probably will not have enough spare shells left to supply your flock enough calcium. Egg-laying chickens cannot go more than a few days without that additional calcium source, so you will need to supplement! (Unless you ask your friends to keep the shells and return them to you, which we have totally done.)

Thankfully, we recently found a thinner, flakier, tastier oyster shell than those old “oyster rocks” that our girls disliked so much in the past – one that they will actually eat! Now, we mix these oyster shells with their eggshells to bolster our supply when needed. Even when we aren’t “short”, we add a little oyster shell with their eggshells on occasion, simply to keep them accustomed to eating them.

How & When to Provide Chickens Calcium

Whether you’re providing supplemental calcium via eggshells, oyster shells, or both, there are a few important health considerations you need to know about!

Age

First things first. Chickens should not be provided additional calcium until they’ve “come into lay” – that is, have begun to lay eggs, or are damn near ready to. Introducing excess calcium prematurely can actually harm young chickens and cause kidney damage. We generally put out eggshells after one of our young chickens begins to lay, even if the others that are the same age haven’t started yet. You could also begin to offer calcium when your girls start to exhibit the telltale signs that eggs are on the way.

As they mature, chickens need slightly less protein and a bit more calcium. If you pay attention to their labels, you’ll see this reflected in the content of their various stages of feed: chick or “starter”, grower, and layer feeds. Their food is formulated and adjusted accordingly. Thus, laying hens should always be fed a “layer” feed. If you are curious, we feed our chickens this organic layer feed by Scratch and Peck.

Let me decide!

Second, your flocks supplemental calcium source should always be offered as “free choice”. This means that it should NOT be mixed into their food or hidden in treats. Put the crushed eggshells or oyster shells in a separate dish, and keep it stocked and available at all times.

As shown below, we provide shells in a small hanging dish that easily attaches to fencing – with one in the yard, and one in their run. They graze on it as they please. Listening to their bodies, chickens somehow know when they are in need or not! Mixing an excess calcium source into their feed sort of tricks them into eating it, and can lead to “overdose” and health issues similar to if they consume too much too young.

How to Prepare Eggshells for Chickens

Crack an egg, fry it up, and toss the eggshell out in the yard for the birds… right? Not quite! Some folks may do it that way, but we prefer to take a couple extra (but easy!) steps before giving the shells to our chickens. How you choose to prepare your eggshells is ultimately up to you, but let me share how we do it.

Before feeding them back to the chickens, we prefer to bake and crush their eggshells first.

Why bake the eggshells first? Because baking the shells makes them safer for the chickens, by killing any potential bacteria lurking on them with heat. This is especially important if they were sitting around for a while after being cracked open.

Drying the shells in the oven also dries out the membrane, and makes the shells much easier to crush. Finally, it also changes the odor and flavor of the eggs. By doing so, it reduces the likelihood of your chickens associating the shells with the eggs that they lay – and developing a taste for them! It renders them distinct and unrecognizable as eggs. Egg-eating is an obnoxious and difficult habit to break once they start! Trust me… Ugh. Read more about how to prevent and stop egg-eating here.

Baking, crushing, & storing eggshells

As we use eggs, we save up the shells in a container in the back of the fridge. Keeping them refrigerated reduces bacterial growth, so we don’t bother rinsing them after cracking before storage. Then every month or two, we prepare a large batch. Waiting to bake many at once makes it much less of a hassle or frequent chore!

Spread the shells on a cookie sheet or baking pan. They can get a little stuck and difficult to clean, so we use a cheap pan from a thrift store, dedicated for eggshells. Bake the shells on 300’F for 5 to 10 minutes. We generally do around 5 minutes if they’re already on the dry side, or for a smaller batch, and a bit longer for a large amount or when they’re still quite wet. Remove from the oven, and allow to cool.

Next, crush the shells to a consistency of your hens liking. Some folks grind them up very small, almost into a powder. We’ve found our girls like to peck at slightly larger pieces, about the size of raw oatmeal flakes.

To physically crush the shells, find whatever method works for you. It could be done right on the pan, in a jar, bowl, coffee grinder, food processor… hell, some people even use a mortar and pestle! We typically throw all the baked shells in a designated, re-used, large ziplock bag and then crush the contents with a rolling pin or our hands. A zero-waste, plastic-free option is to do the same in an old pillow case or cloth bag – which is what I plan to try next batch!

Finally, we store the crushed eggshells in jars in the fridge. As needed, we replenish their little dishes outside – so that they’re never without.

It is as simple as that.

Isn’t it crazy to think that such a small act plays such a significant role in keeping your chickens healthy? Providing a little calcium can save their lives! Literally.

If you’re reading this, I assume that you have (or will soon have) chickens. But if you don’t, you can still save your eggshells! Crush and add them to your compost pile, worm bin, or straight into your garden soil as a natural amendment. The extra calcium is appreciated there too!

I hope you found this post helpful! If you’re interested in more chicken-related articles, you may enjoy:

• “What to Expect When You’re Expecting: Backyard Chickens” – the ultimate 101 crash-course in raising chickens
• “Top 18 Backyard Chicken Breeds”
• “Baby Chick Care 101: Brooders, Butts, & Beyond!”
• Caring for Chickens in Cold Winter Weather
• 10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool During Hot Summer Weather (or Heat Wave)
• When Do Chickens Start Laying Eggs? 5 Telltale Signs it’s Soon

Please help promote healthy chicken friends by sharing this article!

The post How to Feed Chickens Eggshells or Oyster Shells for Essential Calcium & Health appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

To help you examine and narrow down the chicken choices, here is the low-down on their reputation for demeanor, heat tolerance or cold hardiness, egg color, size, and laying frequency, along with any other notable characteristics.

We have personal experience with many of the breeds on this list. Others are on our future “wish list” because of all the great things we have heard about them. I also included popular breeds that many of my insta-family of crazy chicken ladies love and have in their flocks. All of the descriptions provided below are in reference to the standard large fowl size (with exception of the Millie Fleur), though many of these breeds are also available in bantam (small) size.


What breeds of chicken do you want?

The Top 18 Backyard Chicken Breeds

1) Barred Rock

Barred Plymouth Rocks, or just “barred rocks”, are some of the sweetest, most inquisitive, quirky birds we’ve ever had. They are very friendly, intelligent, and great with kids. I hate to play favorites, but of the nine different chickens we have had now, Dottie and Zoey take the cake. They’re the ones who always come running first, follow closest, and are most inclined to jump up for a cuddle.

Barred Rocks also have a reputation for being talkative, but with a distinct sweet, softer coo and chatter, much different than the others in the flock. These black and white spotted cuties are steady layers of large, light brown eggs. You can expect an average of four to five eggs per week while they’re actively laying. Barred rocks have a large single comb, and are both heat and cold tolerant. This breed can take well to “confinement” but are happiest when they can range freely.

2) Marans

This group includes Black Copper Marans, Blue Copper Marans, or Cuckoo Marans.  All of them are known to have the same great temperament. Sweet. Intelligent. Docile. Easily handled. Personally, I have a sizable soft spot for Black Copper Marans. Their bluish black iridescent feathers, copper gold neck feathers, feathered legs, and large red comb and wattles make them extremely striking, gorgeous birds. We had a Black Copper Marans named Luna. We lost her early due to a heart defect, but for the 6 months she blessed our lives with her presence, she was one of the best chickens we’d ever had.

Marans are highly sought after for their dark chocolate brown eggs, which range from medium brown (blue copper), dark (cuckoo), to very very dark chocolate brown (black copper marans). They are good layers, averaging at least 3 large eggs per week. Though they’re quite cold hardy, Marans aren’t said to be especially tolerant to extreme heat.

3) Easter Eggers or Olive Eggers

Easter Eggers are usually very friendly, docile, and in our experience, maybe a tad ditzy. But what chicken isn’t a little ditzy? Really. Not to be confused with a true-bred Ameraucanas or Araucanas, Easter Eggers are also commonly labeled as “Americanas”. Note the difference in spelling. Certain chicken enthusiasts get very irritated by the misleading nomenclature, because the Ameraucana breed (number 5 below) is quite different.

Easter Eggers are the mutts of the chicken world; they are not a true recognized breed of chicken. But mutts can make for the best of pets! Instead, they’re usually a cross breed, dubbed and lumped into a generic category of “easter eggers” for the colorful eggs they’re bred to lay. The same is true for Olive Eggers. Most Easter Eggers have green legs, which helps make them easily distinguishable from true-bred Ameraucanas, who have slate gray to blue legs.

True to their name, Easter Eggers can lay a rainbow of egg colors! It is most common to get green or blue eggs from Easter Egger hens, though their palette can range from pink to tan to purplish! You can eggspect at least 4 eggs per week from these gals. Outfitted with fluffy cheeks called muffs, or feathery little neck beards, I think these birds are absolutely adorable. They come in a wide variety of colors, including brown, orange, black, blonde, white or blue! We have had three Easter Eggers, Hennifer being our oldest gal in the current flock.

Easter Eggers have small peacombs, making them a good cold-hardy bird. Peacombs do not have as high of a risk of frostbite as large single-comb types. They’re also known to be heat tolerant, and do not commonly become broody.

4) Orpington

The Buff orpington is the quintessential backyard chicken. Imagine a big ginger-blonde fluff ball lazily meandering around your yard. With a reputation of being very sweet, docile, and patient, these birds are especially good with kids. The buff color Orpington is the most common, though they come in a variety of other color plumage! Blue, Black, White… A Lavender or Jubilee Orpington is on our wish list, most definitely! Orpingtons lay medium to large light brown eggs, averaging one every other day.

Due to their fluffy plumage, this breed is especially cold-hardy. Also because of their heavy stature, they’re known to be less flighty once they’ve reached maturity. Orpingtons may go broody fairly often, and are very good mother hens.

5)  Ameraucana

Often confused with Easter Eggers, this recognized purebreed does have a lot of similar characteristics! With fluffy cheek muffs and a beard, their faces couldn’t get any cuter. Ameraucanas lay beautiful medium-size blue eggs in a wide range of shades, with an average of about 3 to 4 per week. But don’t expect eggs right away from this breed. On average, this breed will “come into lay” a couple months later than other hens.

When talking about their Ameraucanas, most folks say they’re docile but very alert and predator savvy. Personality can vary with each unique bird – it seems they enjoy being around humans, but may be a little more on the skittish side, not necessarily enjoying cuddles as much as some chicken breeds.  Plumage color ranges from blue to buff and wheaten to lavender. A lavender or blue splash Ameraucana is on my dream flock list! Like many chickens, this breed is quite cold hardy but not particularly heat hardy.

6) Crested Cream Legbar

Crested Cream Legbars, or just “cream legbars”, are a rare breed and highly sought after for their bright blue-green eggs. They will lay about 4 to 5 medium-size blue eggs per week. And their amazing little tufted head poufs, and big floppy combs? Yeah. Pretty stinking cute. This breed is known to be very sweet and inquisitive. Some of my friends have super friendly, cuddly CCL’s who love to be up-in-the-business, getting pet and being held. Our girl Phoebe is a little more skittish, but she’s still a quirky, beautiful, welcome addition to our flock.

Cream Legbars are good foragers, and keen to spotting and avoiding predators when free ranging. Being on the smaller side for “large fowl”, they can move quick! They are tolerant to heat, cold, and confinement. One additional awesome trait these birds have going for them is that they’re auto-sexing. That means that as day-old chicks, you can easily tell the two sexes apart. So whether you’re ordering from a hatchery, picking some up from a local breeder, or hatching your own eggs at home, you know what you’re getting into right away! The baby males will have a light spot on the top of their head, which the females lack.

7)  Welsummer

Welsummers are all-around awesome friends to have in the backyard! They are calm, sweet, beautiful, and steady, reliable layers. If you are looking for reddish brown eggs, most often with awesome dark brown speckles, look no further! Four large eggs per week is an expected average for Welsummers.

Backyard chicken keepers have nothing but good things to say about this breed. We love our Welsummer girl, Ginger. She is more gentle in her digging than the others, though Welsummers are good foragers. Ginger is also our least assertive bird, when it comes time to competing for food or in the general pecking order with the rest of the flock, despite the stereotype that they can be more assertive with others. This breed is both cold and heat-hardy.

8)  Wyandotte

Wyandottes have some of the most gorgeous feather patterns out there. Gold Laced and Silver Laced are the most common plumage colors, though they also come in blue, black, partridge, and more. With humans, Wyandottes are mostly calm and friendly birds, though a little aloof. They are not necessarily “lap chickens”. When it comes to demeanor around other chickens, they often rank high in the pecking order and can be bossy or even a little aggressive.

In regards to eggs, Wyandottes will lay about 4 medium-to-large light brown eggs per week. They’re a heavy breed and therefore not usually as quick or flighty. With a rose comb and full plumage, they’re exceptionally suited for cold climates. Like many other chicken breeds, they’ll will need extra measures taken to keep them cool and comfortable in high-heat climates. They are good foragers and prefer free range.

9)  Cochin

The adorable factor is so real with these birds. Fluffy feathered pantaloons, anyone? These birds are so fully feathered that you usually cannot see their feet. Cochins are not known to be the best of layers, averaging about 2 medium brown eggs per week. However, for what they lack in egg production, they more than make up for in personality! This leads them to be continually popular with backyard chicken keepers.

Cochins have a reputation for being very friendly, docile, easily-handled, and overall peaceful, good-vibes only birds. Even their roosters are known to be pretty chill. Are you surprised to hear Cochins are on our dream flock list? Probably not. And to be honest, we get way more eggs than we can keep up with from our four “strong” laying hens. I wouldn’t mind some girls that lay less frequently.

Given their heavy statue and immense fluff, Cochins are very cold hardy and easy to contain with minimal fencing. They aren’t aggressive foragers, and prefer the fat and lazy approach.  They’re not super heat tolerant, but that can be overcome with extra precautions like plenty of shade, cold water, frozen treats. In regards to colors, Cochins come in just about all of them! Buff, blue, gold laced, white, black, mottled, brown, red, and more.

10) Australorp

This is the Australian-origin version of the Orpington, and have many of the same qualities! Australorp plumage can be blue, black, or white. I personally think the black is the most stunning, with an iridescent green, blue, and purple sheen in the right lighting. This breed is well-known for their high-volume egg laying abilities. Several world records for most number of eggs per year were set by Australorp hens. They will lay an average of 5 large light brown eggs per week.

On the whole, Australorps are very docile, sweet, and friendly. Some may be a tad shy. Fluffy and large, these birds have great cold hardiness. As you can imagine, being that they originated in Australia and are very popular birds there, they are also quite heat tolerant.

11) Speckled Sussex

Speckled Sussex chickens are curious, mild-mannered, and will probably follow you all over. As heavy dual-purpose birds, these chickens aren’t as prone to flying once they mature to full size, so they’re a little less likely to hop the fence into your garden! After each molt, they can become increasingly speckled and pretty. Add one of these to our future “I want you” list.

Speckled Sussex lay about four light brown eggs four per week. They’re likely to lay through the coldest of winter weather. Speaking of winter, this breed is a good cold-hearty breed too. They aren’t necessarily heat sensitive, but also are not know to be exceptionally heat tolerant either.

12) Silkie

Silkies are like the teddy bears of the chicken world. Mostly kept as beloved pets over egg production, these birds are exceedingly friendly, easy to handle, and with their unique fluffy feathers, very adorable. They’re commonly raised as show birds. With Silkies, about 2 to 3 eggs per week is common. The eggs are small to medium size, usually cream in color. Speaking of color, their plumage variations include blue, black, white, grey, buff, partridge, and splash. Despite their fragile appearance, they take well to free ranging, and are quite heat tolerant! They go broody easily and make for excellent mothers.

Due to their unique silky feathers, there are a few things you need to know to properly care for them. First, because their feathers do not stick together, they cannot fly. This makes them easy to confine, but also easy targets for predators. Also because of their feathers, they are not waterproof like other chickens and cannot tolerate overly wet climates without some supplemental heat or blow drying. As a very docile and unique breed, they are an easy target for bullying and feather-plucking by other members of a mixed flock. Therefore, silkies may do best in flocks of their same kind or with similar breeds like Polish.

13) Polish

Have you seen those adorable birds with pom-poms of feather afros on the their head? That’s a Polish. They are ridiculously adorable. The head pouf can be so full that it might need to be routinely trimmed or pulled back into a “hen bun” to help the birds otherwise impaired eyesight. Like Cochins and Silkies, this is a breed that is more sought after for appearance and cute-factor than egg production. They will lay medium to large white eggs, up to several per week. However, they are known to have more variation in laying frequency and therefore less dependable, if eggs are what you’re looking for. They are not known to go broody much.

Also like cochins and silkies, this breed is very tame, sweet, and will tolerate being held, making them a very good choice for a family with children. They fly well, and also may startle easily, which is thought to be attributed to their sometimes blocked eyesight. They are also very inquisitive and can get themselves into tricky situations because of it. Good thing they tolerate being confined well, because that may be the best option for these birds.  

Polish can be many different color combinations, including blue, black, buff, silver and gold laced, often with a different color poofy crest than the rest of their feathers. They are included on the My Pet Chicken heat-hardy chicken breeds list, and also do well with cold. Like Silkies, overly wet conditions are not ideal. Their crest should be dried if it becomes sopping wet.

When they’re in a flock with other more aggressive breeds like Rhode Island Reds, Polish chickens often fall to the bottom of the pecking order and can be easily bullied. Though adorable, their poofy head feathers can also get them into trouble – they can be irresistible, and other chickens may pick and pluck them. That said, I know of many mixed flocks that include polish and they do just fine!

14) Rhode Island Red

Rhode Island Reds are production birds. They’re valued both for high egg laying frequency, providing about 5 eggs per week, and also for their heavy bodies for meat. Eggs are extra-large in size, brown in color.  They do well in most climates, and are especially cold hardy. The breed is recognized to be good foragers, but also take well to confinement. The Rhode Island Red is the official state bird of… you guessed it… Rhode Island.

There is a persistent rumor around the chicken keeping community that claims RIRs are a bit more rowdy and sometimes even aggressive. Honestly, this prevented us from getting Rhode Island Reds in the past, though I hate to stereotype! Every chicken is different. Rumors aside, upon reading through reviews on various backyard chicken online forums, it seems most folks have very positive things to say about their RIRs! I venture to guess they may have dominant personalities and often emerge as the “top hen” in the flock, but can be very friendly and even downright cuddly with their human companions. People claim they’re a particularly loud breed.

15) Mille Fleur d’Uccle

In French, Mille Fleur means “thousand flowers.” This is probably in reference to the hundreds of little black and white flower petal-looking dots that cover these gorgeous, unique birds otherwise-orange feathers. In addition to the speckles, they have full beards and fluffy feathered feet. Millie Fleurs are very attractive-looking, sweet, calm, and enjoy being handled. Combined with their huge personalities, they are perfect pets as well as popular show birds. They’re only available as bantams.

Egg production isn’t their strong suit, laying just a few very small white eggs per week. Because they are small and light, they do well in heat. This also means they’re excellent fliers, so take that into consideration when you are planning their run or ranging space. Keeping them in a flock with larger, more assertive birds may be problematic, similarly to Polish or Silkies. A Millie Fleur has been on my “I want you” list for a long time.

16) Dominique

Dominiques are another all-around great addition to any backyard flock. They’re docile, sweet, gentle, and are likely to follow their favorite humans closely everywhere they go. They’re also good layers, averaging 3 to 4 medium-large light brown eggs per week. Like Cream Legbars, this breed is auto-sexing, making it easy to more accurately determine their sex as baby chicks just by looking at them. Head spots on male chicks are more scattered, while the female’s head spot will be smaller and uniform.

Though they look similar at first glance, don’t confuse this breed with a barred rock! Dominique chickens have the same black and white pattern, but a bit more mottled and less crisp than a barred rock. The most obvious tell-tale difference between the two breeds is the Dominque’s flattened rose comb. Instead, barred rocks have a single tall large comb. This rose comb gives them little risk of frostbite and excellent cold tolerance, though they aren’t particularly heat tolerant.

As a gentle, less aggressive breed, they make great companions for the similarly-sweet Cochins, Polish, or Silkies, and could be picked on by other more dominant types. They also make excellent, caring mothers.

17) Barnevelder

With unique double-laced plumage reminiscent of a Wyandotte, and chocolate-colored eggs, Barnevelders are gorgeous all the way around. They’ll lay about three large medium to dark brown eggs per week. This breed is rumored to be active, good at foraging, and friendly, but also very easy-going, quiet, and will tolerate confinement well. They’re a cold hardy breed.

Since they’re fairly rare, you probably won’t see this breed during chick days at your local Farm Supply store, but are becoming increasingly available through large and small breeders alike. Much like other mellow chicken breeds, these gals can often fall to the bottom of the pecking order.

18) Brahma

Last but not least, the Brahma. These are big, “dual-purpose” birds! So much so, they’ve been dubbed “The King of Chickens”. But they’re a gentle giant, known just as much for their calm disposition as they are for their size and productivity. As a fluffy, friendly, quiet, easily-handled breed, this is another great choice for families with children. They average three to four medium-large light brown eggs per week. A quirky trait is that they seem to prefer to lay October through May – the time when many other chicken breeds take a winter break – so they may help bring balance to your egg basket year round!

Brahmas have three recognized feather colors: buff, light, and dark. They are densely feathered, including feathery legs and feet. Due to their heavy body stature, they don’t fly well. Therefore, Brahams are generally easy to contain. Their great size also often keeps them near the top of the pecking order. Other birds don’t wanna check that! Cold temperatures aren’t an issue for these birds. However, being in overly wet conditions often could lead to issues with their feathery feet. As long as they have shade and cold water in the summer, they’re okay in heat too.

In summary…

Best egg production:

If a high egg count is your primary motivator for keeping chickens, look no further than Rhode Island Reds, Barred rocks, and Australorps. These are probably the three most “productive” chicken breeds on the list.

Egg Color:

To create a beautiful egg basket full of unique colors, you may want to consider Marans, Easter or Olive Eggers, Ameraucanas, Crested Cream Legbars, Welsummers, and Barnevelders, all of which lay quite regularly as well.

Most Calm and Loving:

If you are after absolute sweethearts, mellow birds for a family with children, then the Barred Rocks, Orpingtons, Easter Eggers, Cochins, Silkies, Millie Fleur, or Polish chicken breeds might be among your ideal choices.

Note that every bird will have its own unique demeanor, so some birds within these breeds (or other breeds on the list) may be more or less friendly than “the norm”. A lot of how affectionate a chicken is with its human family greatly depends on the bonding time spent with it from a young age.

Great All-Around Birds:

Speckled Sussex, Barnevelders, Brahmas, and Dominiques are great all-around birds, with a little of all of the above too!

Heat-Tolerant:

The most heat-tolerant chicken breeds include the Rhode Island Red, Barred Rock, Easter Eggers, Australorp, Silkies, Millie Fleurs, and Welsummers. However, with extra measures taken by a diligent chicken parent, most breeds can live happily in hot climates. When temperatures reach 90 degrees Fahrenheit or greater, preventative measures to keep birds cool must be taken. This is particularly true in humid climates. Read “10 Ways to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Summer Weather” to learn more!

Cold-Tolerant:

Given that they’re living, walking, breathing down blankets, cold is not usually as threatening to chickens as heat is! That is, unless they’re molting. Then they may need a sweater. All of the breeds on this list will do similarly well in cold climates, as long as typical winterizing precautions are taken. Chickens with large single-combs and wattles may need extra attention in winter, to ensure their combs don’t get frostbite. Check out “10 Tips on Caring for Chickens in Cold Winter Weather” here.

Most Unique Appearance:

Even though I think ALL chickens are quite beautiful, if you are looking for unique, show-stopping beauties, Wyandottes, Millie Fleur, Polish, and Silkies take the cake.

So what do you think?

Did this help you narrow down your choices, or just make you want alllll of them? The great news about having so many awesome chicken breeds to choose from is it may help you feel less “stuck” on just a few breed types! It is great to be flexible and open up your options, especially if you are sourcing your chicks from a local breeder that might not have all of the exact breeds you were originally hoping for.

If you are a new or soon-to-be chicken parent, you may want to check out this post: What to Expect When You’re Expecting: Backyard Chickens. It covers everything from where to get chickens, coop and run design, predators and safety, and poop! Yep. Poop.

Did I miss any great chicken breeds that deserve a shout out? Feel free to leave a comment, and include a little description to share your experience with others. If you enjoyed this post, please share it with anyone who might find it useful. Thanks for reading!

The post The Top 18 Chicken Breeds for Your Backyard Flock appeared first on Homestead and Chill.