If you’re here because you want to make chickweed salve, chances are you’re already familiar with chickweed itself… But just in case you aren’t, let’s start with a quick background lesson.

What is Chickweed?

Chickweed (stellaria media) is a tender, edible, and nutritious annual herb. It’s often thought of as a “weed”, commonly found growing in the shade in backyards, open fields, and riparian habitats during the cool wet season. Chickweed is originally native to Europe but has been naturalized throughout the United States, Canada, and beyond. Historically, chickweed has been used by Native Americans for centuries in herbal medicine and skincare. 

Learn more about chickweed here, including foraging, cultivation, harvest, and identification tips. 

What is Chickweed Salve?

Chickweed salve is a soothing golden-green topical balm made with the chickweed plant, natural oil, and wax (usually beeswax). The first step in making chickweed salve is to soak or infuse dried chickweed in oil, which extracts the beneficial compounds from the plant material into the oil. Then, the infused oil is combined with other ingredients like beeswax to make it more firm and spreadable, creating a salve or balm. 

You can also customize your homemade chickweed salve recipe and add optional ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E oil, other skin-friendly herbs (e.g. calendula, chamomile, rosehips, or lavender), or essential oils to enhance the moisturizing and healing benefits. For example, I often like to soak half chickweed and half calendula in oil to make an extra-rejuvenating salve!

Benefits of Chickweed Salve

Chickweed possesses many therapeutic qualities that make it wonderful for natural skincare and healing! First, it’s loaded with numerous vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants including Vitamin C, beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc. Chickweed also has potent cooling, drying, analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-fungal properties. When combined with moisturizing natural oils and beeswax, this gives chickweed salve the ability to fight skin inflammation, reduce redness, itching, and more. 

What is chickweed salve used for?

Chickweed salve may help soothe irritated skin and conditions including (but not limited to):

• eczema
• rashes and hives
• insect bites
• psoriasis
• poison ivy or poison oak
• acne
• minor burns and scrapes 
• sunburn
• razor burn
• general itching, redness and swelling

I broke out in hives recently (after pruning some overgrown elderberry bushes – they’re toxic) and our chickweed-calendula Skin Calm Balm provided immediate relief. The hives were gone within 10 minutes!

Drying Chickweed

This chickweed salve recipe calls for dried chickweed. Since added moisture (water) can cause mold and spoilage, it’s important to use 100% dry herbs in infused oil and salve – especially when using the slow cold oil infusion method like we do in this recipe. Remember, oil and water don’t mix! 

Thankfully, chickweed dries very quickly. If yours isn’t yet dry, simply lay out the fresh chickweed on an herb drying screen or in a woven basket in a warm, dry, well-ventilated location for several days. Or, pop it in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting until fully crispy dry. That’s what we do!

You can also buy certified organic dried chickweed here.

Chickweed Salve Recipe

Ingredients

• Dried chickweed – enough to loosely fill an 8 oz jar (see infusion notes below).
  
• 1 cup (8 ounces) carrier oil of choice. Popular carrier oil options for skincare include sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, and coconut oil. You can use one, or mix a couple! For the maximum healing benefits, we like to use certified organic cold-pressed oils. Learn more about the pros and cons of 11 carrier oils here.
  
• OR 1 cup (8 ounces) of already-infused chickweed oil
  
• 1/4 cup (1 ounce) beeswax pastilles or pellets. Beeswax is the most common type of natural wax used to make chickweed salve. It’s readily available, easy to work with, and creates a perfectly smooth, firm but spreadable salve. Beeswax is also antimicrobial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and highly moisturizing! See vegan wax options below.
  
• Optional: 1 Tbsp organic shea butter, which is highly moisturizing and rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants.
  
• Optional: a few drops of essential oils of choice. Technically, you can safely use up to 100 drops (1 tsp) maximum per cup of carrier oil, though that will result in a very, very strongly-scented salve. I suggest using ¼ to ½ that amount, or less. Lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus are all especially soothing for skin irritation (antibacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory). We like to use certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy.

Supplies Needed

• A double-boiler or DIY double boiler (e.g. a smaller pot or glass bowl that can rest inside a slightly larger pot). To prevent overheating or denaturing the therapeutic compounds, it’s important to use a double boiler rather than heating your chickweed salve ingredients directly on the stove.
  
• Small glass jars or salve tins, for storage. We often use 2-ounce amber glass jars or larger cobalt blue 4-ounce jars for personal use or gifts, and 2-ounce salve tins for easy shipping for our shop.

Yield: This recipe makes just over a cup of finished chickweed salve, or about 8 to 10 ounces (4 or 5 two-ounce containers). Note that I made a double batch in the images shown. There is a scalable, printable recipe at the end of this article.

Vegan wax options for chickweed salve

It’s possible to make chickweed salve with plant-based waxes like soy wax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax too. However, this may take a little experimentation since they have different textures and therefore may yield different results than beeswax. Soy is an easy 1-1 replacement for beeswax, while you’ll want to use slightly less carnauba or candelilla wax than beeswax since they’re more firm and prone to cracking (e.g. 1 part wax to 6 parts oil, rather than 1:4).

How to Make Chickweed Infused Oil

Before making the salve, first create chickweed infused oil. Fill a clean jar or other container about two-thirds full of dried chickweed (lightly packed). Next, pour over your oil of choice. Use enough to fully cover and submerge the chickweed. Again, this recipe calls for 1 cup of chickweed oil, so use at least a cup of oil or more. 

Add a lid and let the chickweed infuse in the oil in a cool dark location for at least 10 days, or up to several weeks. The longer it infuses, the more potent the oil will become! Once the time is up, strain the chickweed and reserve the oil. I like to set a small cheesecloth-lined strainer on top of a new clean jar or measuring cup, and pour the chickweed oil through. Then I can gather the chickweed in the cheesecloth to squeeze out any remaining oil. See photos below.

If you’d like to use a quick heated oil infusion method and/or use fresh (wet) chickweed instead of letting it passively steep, see this guide for further direction. 

Instructions to Make Chickweed Salve

1. Before starting, get your salve tins, glass jars, or other salve storage containers of choice ready and waiting.
   
   
2. Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.
   
   
3. Add enough water to the bottom portion of your double-boiler so that the top bowl or pot is in contact and resting in the water below.
   
   
4. Next, heat the double-boiler over a medium-low heat on the stovetop uncovered (without a lid). Remember, we want to avoid excessively heating the chickweed oil more than what is necessary! Just enough to melt the beeswax.
   
   
5. Monitor and routinely stir the mixture until the beeswax (and shea butter) completely melts. Stir to thoroughly combine, and then remove from the heat immediately thereafter.
   
   
6. Wait to add optional essential oils until after removing the liquid salve from the heat. They’re very volatile and therefore will dissipate quickly when exposed to high heat. Whisk to combine.
   
   
7. While it’s still hot, carefully pour the now-liquid chickweed salve into your chosen storage containers. If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.
   
   
8. Finally, allow the chickweed salve to fully cool and harden before adding lids.
   
   
9. Now your homemade chickweed salve is ready to use to soothe and heal your skin! Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve and apply as needed. A little goes a long way!

Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it’s medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. Discard if mold appears.

And that concludes this lesson on making homemade chickweed salve.

That was pretty easy, right? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel excited and empowered to go make chickweed salve of your own. I also hope it helps your skin feel wonderful! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this to be useful, please consider leaving a star rating or sharing this post. Thank you so much for tuning in today.

Don’t miss these related posts:

• Chickweed 101: How to Identify, Harvest, Dry and Use Stellaria Media
• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Hemp Oil and Salve Recipe
• How to Make and Use Homemade Lavender Oil, Calendula Oil, or Rosehip Infused Oil

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How to Make Homemade Chickweed Salve

Learn how to make soothing chickweed salve with this easy step-by-step tutorial. Chickweed salve can help calm skin irritation and conditions including rashes, eczema, minor burns, insect bites, poison ivy or oak, psoriasis, razor burn, and more!

Keyword chickweed balm, chickweed oil, chickweed salve

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 10 minutes minutes

Cooling Time 20 minutes minutes

Servings 10 ounces

Equipment

• A double-boiler, or make-shift double boiler (such as a glass pyrex bowl or stainless steel bowl perched on top of a saucepan with water below)
• Glass storage jars or salve tins

Ingredients

• 1 cup Chickweed-infused oil (dried chickweed previously soaked in sweet almond oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, or other carrier oil of choice – see infusion instructions in post)
• 4 tbsp Beeswax pastilles. 4 Tbsp = approximately 1 once if you're using shaved, block, or other forms of beeswax. (vegan option: replace with the same amount of organic soy wax or slightly less candelilla wax)
• 1 tbsp Shea butter (optional)
• 20-25 drops Essential oil of choice such as lavender, peppermint, or eucalyptus – all great choices for skincare. (Feel free to scale up or down, but the maximum concentration or safe dilution ratio = up to 96 drops EO max per 1 cup oil)

Instructions

• Have your chosen salve tins or small glass storage jars ready and waiting.
• Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.
• Heat the mixture on the stovetop over medium-low heat (without a lid) and only until the beeswax melts. Stir frequently.
• As soon as everything melts and is thoroughly combined, remove from heat.
• Add essential oils once removed from heat. They're highly volatile and prone to dissipating.
• While it is still hot, carefully pour the liquid salve into your chosen containers. (If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.)
• Set the full chickweed salve containers aside (lids off) and allow them to fully cool.
• The chickweed salve will harden as it cools, and then it is ready to use. Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve, and apply to your skin as needed. A little goes a long way!
• Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it's medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. 

The post How to Make Soothing Chickweed Salve Recipe and Infused Oil  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Luxurious lavender salve, calming calendula salve, radiant rosehip balm, cooling comfrey chickweed balm, luscious lip balms… After you read this guide and grasp the basics, the options of what you can create are truly endless! Bonus: making salve and balms is far easier than you likely imagine. You can find a printable version of the recipe at the end of this post.

What’s the difference between a salve and a balm?

Topical salves and balms are very similar overall. They’re both made by combining oil and some sort of wax and/or butter (beeswax being the most common) as a stiffener, resulting in a semi-solid but spreadable mixture to apply to your skin. Balms and salves are so similar, many herbalists and DIYers use the two terms and recipes fairly interchangeably (myself included). 

Technically, the main difference between a balm and a salve is that salves are slightly more soft, while balms are a bit more firm. Therefore, homemade balm recipes usually have a higher wax-to-oil ratio to achieve a firmer end product, while salve recipes have lighter wax in comparison. Balms are better at creating a natural, long-lasting barrier on the skin and locking in moisture, while spreadable salves are excellent for moisturizing skin or treating specific conditions.

The firmer texture means balms can come in a wider range of packaging, including lip balm tubes or cardboard push-up tubes, while soft salves are usually best stored in a tin, glass jar, or other wide shallow container you can dip into. And in case you’re curious, an ointment is simply an even softer, more oily version of a salve. 

Supplies Needed to Make Salve or Balms

• Herbal oil or plain oil of choice such as olive oil, sweet almond oil, or jojoba oil (explored more to follow)
• Beeswax or alternative natural wax
• Optional ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E oil, or essential oils 
• A double boiler, which allows the salve ingredients to heat and melt evenly without overheating or burning. Consider this modest double-boiler, this large one, or this top melting pot you can set over an existing pot – which also has a handy pour spout! You can also make a DIY double boiler by nestling a smaller pot or heat-safe bowl inside a slightly larger pot. 
• Measuring cups and/or digital kitchen scale
• Storage containers such as salve tins (1 ounce or 2 ounce tins), small glass jars (I love these 2 ounce amber jars or 4 ounce cobalt jars), lip balm tubes, or other suitable container.
• A small heat-safe pitcher, glass measuring cup with pour spout, or confectionery funnel for filling containers.

Understanding Salve and Balm Wax-to-Oil Ratios

• To make a salve or balm, simply heat 1 part beeswax with 3 to 5 parts natural oil of choice in a double-boiler until combined (see detailed instructions below). For example, ¼ cup of beeswax pastilles or shavings and about 1 cup of oil, or 1 cup of beeswax for every 3 to 5 cups of oil. 
  

• A 1:3 wax-to-oil ratio will create a firm balm, a 1:4 ratio is great for a standard salve, and a 1:5 wax-to-oil ratio creates a soft, spreadable salve. You could even use a 1:6 ratio, which will result in an extra soft, gooey salve. Any additional oil beyond that, the salve will fail to properly set up or stiffen.
  
  
• To measure by weight and ounces, use a 1:8 ratio such as 1 oz beeswax (1/4 cup) to 8 fluid ounces of oil for a standard salve. This is particularly helpful if you’re working with beeswax blocks or chunks.
  
  
• Scale the recipe up or down as needed while maintaining the recommended ratios. Note that other types of natural waxes require slightly different ratios than beeswax, explored in the “alternative wax” discussion to follow. 
  

• Keep in mind that adding additional ingredients like butters will also influence the texture. For example, we generally use a 1:4 ratio for salves but also add shea butter, which softens it up a bit. Lip balm recipes almost always include a butter component (like our lip balm recipe with cocoa butter). 

Basic Homemade Salve Recipe

• 1 cup (8 ounces) of oil, plain or herb-infused. Use ¾ cup for a firm balm (1:3 ratio) or up to 1.25 cups for a softer salve (1:5 ratio)
• ¼ cup (1 oz) beeswax pellets or pastilles
• Optional: 1 to 2 Tbsp shea butter, cocoa butter or mango butter
• Optional: Up to 1 tsp of essential oils (100 drops maximum) for a very strong-scented salve. I recommend using ¼ to ½ that amount or less. Lavender, roman chamomile, eucalyptus, rosemary, and peppermint are a few popular options. We like to use certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy.
• Optional: ½ tsp of vitamin E oil

This recipe makes just over 1 cup of finished salve – around 10 ounces, or five 2-ounce jars.

Next let’s explore the various types of oils, herbal oils, waxes, and optional ingredients used to make salve or balm. Or, feel free to skip straight to the salve-making instructions to make salve here.

Homemade Salve or Balm Ingredients 

Oil of choice

To make a salve or balm, you can use any high-quality natural oil you prefer – or a combination of two or more! Sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, and argan oil are some of my favorites. Olive oil, coconut oil, and avocado oil are also popular choices. Using coconut oil that is solid at room temperature will increase the overall firmness of your salve, while fractionated (liquid) coconut oil will behave like any other oil.  

Hop over to this article to explore 11 carrier oil options for skin care, including the unique benefits, characteristics, and comedogenic ratings of each one. Use these oils as-is or infused with herbs first (explained below). For the most healthy and healing salves, I suggest using cold-pressed, virgin, and organic oils whenever possible.

Beeswax 

Beeswax is the most common type of wax used to make salves or balms. It’s readily available, easy to work with (especially beeswax pastilles or pellets) and creates an ideal smooth salve or balm texture. Even better, studies show that beeswax is naturally antimicrobial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, and has the ability to both soothe and protect the skin while locking in moisture!

Alternative (vegan) wax alternatives for salve or balms

Beeswax aside, you can make salves or balms with other natural plant-based waxes too. For instance, soy wax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax are popular vegan wax options to make herbal salves or balms. However, this may take a little experimentation on your part since they have different textures and therefore may yield different results than beeswax. 

• Soy wax is an especially easy and direct swap for beeswax (1:1) in any salve recipe. I recommend using organic soy wax if possible, since conventional soy is notoriously pesticide-intensive. Also be sure to choose cosmetic-grade or food grade soy wax, not one designed for candle making or crafts only.
  
  
• Candelilla wax is more firm than beeswax, so use slightly less candelilla in your salve recipe (try 1 part candelilla wax to 5 or 6 parts oil). Note that products made with candelilla are more prone to cracking. It also has a very high melting point, so will likely be the last ingredient to melt in your pot.
  
  
• Carnauba wax is the firmest of them all, and even more prone to cracking. Try 1 part carnauba wax for every 6 to 8 parts oil to create a smooth, spreadable salve and a 1:5 ratio for a firmer balm. Carnauba makes the best salve or balm texture when combined with plant-based butters like shea or cocoa butter. 

Optional Ingredients

Herb-infused oil

Plain, high-quality carrier oils like sweet almond, olive or jojoba oil will nourish and moisturize skin on their own. However, you could also infuse dried herbs in oil before making salve to combine the healing and therapeutic benefits of both! I love incorporating homegrown goodies in our herbal salves.

Dried lavender, chamomile, rosemary, calendula, hemp, comfrey, yarrow, chickweed, rosehips or rose petals are a few excellent choices – and all bring their own unique properties to the herbal salve or balm! If you’re new to herbs and want to learn more about the uses and benefits of each one, I highly recommend this Beginner’s Guide to Medicinal Herbs by Rosemary Gladstar.

To make herb-infused oils, you can either passively steep dry herbs in oil for several weeks (the no-heat method) or lightly heat fresh or dried herbs in oil on the stovetop or in a crockpot for more immediate results. I prefer the slow no-heat method, which best preserves the medicinal compounds in the herbs but does take more patience and planning in advance. 

Learn how to make herbal oils here. After straining, you can use the herb-infused oil alone in a balm or salve recipe, or in addition to another plain carrier oil (as long as you maintain the recommended wax-to-oil ratio). 

Butters: Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, and Mango Butter

Plant-based butters can make salves and balms extra smooth, creamy, and nourishing! However, using too much can negatively influence the consistency of your finished product, such as making it too soft, grainy, or crack as it dries. Using the basic salve recipe I shared above, start with just a small amount of butter (about 1 or 2 tablespoons butter per cup of oil) and then experiment and adjust as needed. 

• Shea butter is highly moisturizing and rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and polyphenols. Studies confirm that shea butter has potent anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antioxidant properties. It also helps with skin barrier repair. Shea butter has a high melting point, so it may be the last to completely melt in your double-boiler.
  
  
• Cocoa butter is a rich moisturizer that replenishes the skin’s natural protective barrier, sealing in long-lasting moisture. Like shea butter, cocoa butter is loaded with fatty acids, minerals, polyphenols and antioxidants. When used in salves and balms, cocoa butter also tends to absorb into skin nicely rather than feeling greasy.
  
  
• Mango butter contains similar good fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals that shea and cocoa butter provide. Yet Mango butter is incredibly high in Vitamin C – a powerful antioxidant in skincare that helps to stimulate collagen production, and prevent or correct sun damage and premature aging. It’s also highly hydrating!

Vitamin E Oil

I often like to add vitamin E oil to my homemade salves and lip balm, just for a little extra oomph of goodness. With high levels of antioxidants and the ability to both protect skin and ameliorate a wide variety of skin issues, Vitamin E is a known powerhouse in natural skincare and cosmetics. Like essential oils, pure Vitamin E oil is highly concentrated. A little goes a long way! A salve or balm recipe with no more than 0.5% to 1% vitamin E oil is plenty (about ½ tsp of vitamin E oil per cup of oil). 

Essential Oils

Essential oils (EOs) can bring a lot to a homemade salve or balm. Obviously, essential oils smell nice! Most natural herb-infused oils don’t have much of an aroma, so adding a few drops of essential oils can really elevate the final product. 

Essential oils also offer unique therapeutic benefits when used topically. For instance, chamomile and lavender essential oils are excellent at calming nerves and skin issues, while refreshing peppermint and eucalyptus oils are uplifting, antibacterial, and can help clear sinuses. Learn more about each of their benefits here.

Essential oil precautions

It’s important to remember that essential oils are very concentrated and must be thoroughly diluted before they’re safe to use directly on skin. The recommended maximum concentration or dilution rate for most EOs is 2-3%, or about 1 tsp (100 drops) of essential oils per cup of regular oil for adults, and often even less for kiddos.

However, remember that’s the maximum recommendation – and would result in a very strongly scented salve or balm! We prefer more natural, mellow products and usually use a quarter of that, or less. 

Avoid using phytotoxic essential oils in topical salves and balms, including lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, lime, and bitter orange – they can cause skin to burn easily in the sun. (Sweet orange is not phytotoxic). Strong amounts of “hot” oils like cinnamon, lemongrass, clove, oregano, and cassia may be irritating for those with sensitive skin.

Also note that most essential oils are toxic to pets, with the exception of lavender, frankincense, chamomile, and rosemary.

Which essential oils are best for salve and balm?

Common essential oils used in homemade salves and balms include: lavender, sweet orange, roman chamomile, peppermint, tea tree, eucalyptus, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, jasmine, rose, lemongrass, clary sage, frankincense, ylang ylang, vanilla, and rosemary. Use one scent alone, or try mixing two or three. 

Tip: Balance sweet, woody, or floral scents with a more bright, herbaceous or citrusy scent, such as lavender + eucalyptus or rosemary, chamomile + lemongrass, sandalwood or cedarwood + peppermint, or jasmine + sweet orange. 

Working with essential oils and scenting salves is a craft of its own! It can take some experimentation to find the right amount and blend of oils to meet your desired results. Therefore, I suggest to start small: with a small batch of salve, and a light amount of just one or two types of essential oils. Gradually adjust as needed.

Instructions to Make a Homemade Salve or Balm

Last but not least, here is how to make a salve or balm in 6 easy steps. Have all your supplies clean and ready before starting. You’ll want to work fairly quick once the mixture melts!

1. Measure and/or weigh the oil, wax, and optional butter and add it to the top portion of a double boiler. Be sure to put water in the lower portion of the double boiler; enough so the bottom of the top pan is resting in water.
   
   
2. Heat the ingredients over medium-high heat until all of the ingredients are completely melted and combined. Stir occasionally. Do not cover the pot while heating; any condensation (water) can negatively impact the salve or balm.
   
   
3. Turn off the stove and remove from heat before adding essential oils and/or vitamin E oil. Essential oils are very volatile by nature, and thus will quickly dissipate on high heat.
   
   
4. While it’s still hot, carefully pour the liquid into storage containers of choice. If you have one handy, it can be easiest to transfer the melted mixture into a heat-safe pitcher, confectionery funnel, or glass measuring cup with pour spout (in batches if needed) and then use that to fill the containers.
   
   
5. If the mixture starts to harden before you’re finished pouring, simply return to heat to re-melt.
   
   
6. Once the balm or salve has completely cooled and hardened, add lids or caps and labels. This will take several hours or potentially overnight.
   

Clean Up Tips

For the easiest clean up, immediately wipe the pan out with a paper towel. If the wax residue starts to harden inside, lightly heat the pan to help it melt once again. Otherwise, it should all wash right out with hot soapy water. We also repurpose the already-hot water from the bottom of the double-boiler to wash the top portion.

And that’s a wrap!

I hope you enjoyed this lesson on how to make homemade salves and balms, and feel prepared and empowered to do so. Like I said, the options are truly endless once you get your feet wet and feel confident to get creative. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and leave a review once you give it a try! Thanks for tuning in today.

If you’re interested in straightforward guides to make specific salves and other natural products, check out these related tutorials:

• How to Make Calendula Salve for Healthy Skin
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• How to Make Cannabis Salve (including CBD)
• Homemade Chickweed Salve Recipe for Itching, Burns or Rashes
• DIY Natural Lip Balm Tutorial
• How to Make Medicinal Herbal Infused Oils, Two Ways
• DIY Bath Salts Recipe: Natural Beautiful Soaking Salts

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Simple Homemade Salve or Balm Recipe (Flexible and Customizable)

Learn how to make salve or balms with this simple flexible recipe, including oil and wax options, herb-infused oil, essential oils, butters and more. Once you know the basics, the options to be creative are endless!

Keyword balm recipe, homemade balm, homemade salve, how to make salve, salve recipe

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Equipment

• Double boiler pot
• Measuring cups and/or kitchen scale
• Storage containers (tins, glass jars, or lip balm tubes)
• Heat-safe pitcher, glass measuring cup with pour spout, or confectionery funnel

Ingredients

• 1 cup herbal oil or plan natural oil of choice e.g. jojoba oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, etc or homemade herb-infused oil
• 1/4 cup beeswax pastilles or pellets
• 1-2 Tbsp (optional) shea butter, cocoa butter, or mango butter
• 1 tsp (optional) essential oils up to 1 tsp or 100 drops maximum for safety, but a strongly scented salve). We use 1/4-1/2 tsp or less
• 1/2 tsp (optional) vitamin E oil

Instructions

• Measure and/or weigh the oil, wax, and optional butter and add it to the top portion of a double boiler. Be sure to put water in the lower portion of the double boiler; enough so the bottom of the top pan is resting in water.
• Heat the ingredients over medium-high heat until all of the ingredients are completely melted and combined. Stir occasionally. Do not cover the pot while heating; any condensation (water) can negatively impact the salve or balm.
• Remove from heat before adding essential oils and/or vitamin E oil.
• While it’s still hot, carefully pour the liquid into storage containers of choice. It may be easiest to transfer the melted mixture into a heat-safe pitcher, confectionery funnel, or glass measuring cup with pour spout (in batches if needed) and then use that to fill the containers.
• If the mixture starts to harden before you’re finished pouring, simply return to heat to re-melt.
• Once the balm or salve has completely cooled and hardened, add lids or caps and labels. This will take several hours or potentially overnight.

The post How to Make Salve or Balms 101: Simple Flexible Recipe appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

This guide will cover everything you need to know to make beautiful homemade bath salts using natural ingredients like epsom salt, sea salt, herbs, flowers, and organic essential oils. We’ll explore the best types of salt to use, the benefits they offer, and optional additions like colloidal oat powder. I’ll also cover frequently asked questions about bath salts – including usage, storage, tips for easy clean up, septic system concerns, and more.

Whether they’re for self-care or to share as special gifts, homemade bath salts are fun and easy to make. I’ll share our usual DIY bath salt recipe, but the process is very flexible. Feel free to get creative with your own blends! 

Why and how bath salt soaks work

Bath salts are usually made of epsom salts and sometimes other types of salt too, such as sea salt. When added to warm water, bath salts dissolve and release beneficial minerals (magnesium sulfate in the case of epsom salt) into your bath water. 

In theory, bath salt minerals absorb into your skin and help relax muscles, soothe skin irritation, and reduce inflammation as you soak. Warm bath salt soaks can also help improve circulation and stimulate detoxification in your body. Studies are still lacking on the exact benefits of bath salts, but soaking in warm salty water is incredibly relaxing and relieves stress nonetheless!  

Beyond minerals, bath salts may offer additional benefits depending on the ingredients in them – such as the medicinal powers of herbs, skin healing benefits of colloidal oatmeal, or soothing aromatherapy of essential oils.

What type of salt is best to make DIY bath salts?

You can make bath salts with only one type of salt (e.g. epsom salts alone), or combine several in your DIY bath salt recipe to reap the benefits of each one – plus add visual interest! Here are some of the most popular options:

• Epsom salt is the most common type of salt to use in bath salts, and potentially the most therapeutic too. However, epsom salt is technically not a real “salt” at all! Rather, epsom salt is a naturally occurring mineral compound made of magnesium and sulfate. Epsom salt soaks are used to promote quick healing and pain relief from a range of issues such as sprains, bruises, ingrown nails, stiff joints and muscles, or fibromyalgia. It’s also used to relieve constipation when taken internally.

• Sea Salts*. Sea salts are derived from seawater and are mostly composed of sodium chloride. Since they’re not refined or only minimally processed, sea salts retain numerous valuable minerals including magnesium, potassium, calcium, phosphorus, bromine, boron, zinc, iron, manganese, copper and silicon. Like epsom salts, sea salt baths can ease tension and stiffness while stimulating circulation and detoxification.

• Pink Himalayan Salt. As opposed to the sea, pink salt is a rock salt found high in the Himalayan mountains of South Asia. Though it’s about 98% sodium chloride, pink Himalayan salt also contains up to 84 other trace minerals and elements! It’s also really pretty, ideal for adding a pop of color and interest to your DIY bath salt recipe. 

• Cooking salts. You can also use common cooking salts in homemade bath salts, such as kosher salt, pickling salt or coarse rock salt. These salts are economical, readily available, and contain some trace minerals too. However, AVOID using iodized table salt to make bath salts. Lacking minerals, highly processed table salt doesn’t offer many health benefits. Instead, it adds trace amounts of unwanted iodine to your bath water. 

*Note: Depending on the origin, there are a number of unique sea salts to choose from, such as grey sea salt, Celtic sea salt, Dead Sea salt, and more. Each may offer slightly unique properties (e.g. Dead Sea salt is especially magnesium-rich) but in general, sea salts offer similar benefits in the bath. 

Fine, medium or coarse grind salts for bath salts

Salts come in various grain sizes or “grinds”: coarse, medium, fine, and extra fine. Finer grain salts dissolve fast and easy in your bath, while coarser salts take just a tad longer to dissolve. Yet coarse salts have more surface area and therefore absorb essential oils better, and look pretty cool to boot! All that considered, I generally like to make DIY bath salts with a mix of medium and coarse grind salts. 

Ingredients for Natural DIY Bath Salts 

Homemade bath salts can be as simple or complex as you wish to make them! At minimum, all you really need is salt to create a soothing soak. Yet if you’ve landed on this article, I imagine you’re looking for ideas to spice things up and create more interesting, fragrant, or healing homemade bath salt blends. 

Below is a list of ingredients that we use in our DIY bath salt recipe, though you can easily adjust or omit things as you see fit. I always try to source high-quality organic ingredients… especially for something I’ll be soaking my bits and parts in! This recipe makes about 5 cups of finished bath salts. Scale up or down as needed.

• 4 cups of salt total, such as epsom salt, sea salt, and/or pink Himalayan salt. I often use three kinds (e.g. 2 cups of epsom salt, 1 cup grey sea salt, and 1 cup pink).
  
  
• ½ cup to 1 cup dried herbs or flowers, such as dried rose petals, lavender, calendula, chamomile, rosemary, mint leaves, lemon verbena, or even dried citrus – just to name a few! Again, I like to mix in a couple different things. To prevent mold, it’s important to use 100% dry herbs or flowers for bath salt blends you intend to store for later use. We use a lot of homegrown herbs, though we also source organic herbs from Starwest Botanicals.
  
  
• ½ cup colloidal oat powder. Colloidal oatmeal is phenomenal for your skin! It’s proven to soothe irritation and itching, add softness, and lock in moisture – therefore alleviating skin conditions such as dermatitis, rashes, psoriasis, eczema and more. I also find it helps make bath salts less oily. I make my own colloidal oatmeal by grinding organic oats into a super fine powder in our Vitamix blender, but here is a great organic colloidal oat powder from a small black-owned business!
  
  
• 2 Tbsp Vitamin E oil. Vitamin E oil is a powerful antioxidant with moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties that improve skin health. Though they’re not quite as potent, feel free to substitute with olive oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, or your other favorite carrier oil of choice.
  
  
• ½ teaspoon (50 drops) up to 1 teaspoon (100 drops) of essential oils total (e.g. 30 drops lavender and 20 drops eucalyptus, one of my favorite combos). Sliding scale based on how strongly-scented you want your DIY bath salts. If you’re unsure, start with less – you can always add more later! I recommend using just one or two scents. See more information on essential oil options below.

The best essential oils for bath salts

Though not required, plant-based essential oils really enhance natural DIY bath salts and your overall bath experience! Certain scents are very effective at calming nerves or elevating your mood. It’s called aroma-therapy, after all! Beyond the benefits of aromatherapy, various herbs and essential oils offer unique healing properties. For example, lavender has antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties, and is known to ease anxiety and calm the mind. Similarly, eucalyptus and rosemary are antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and offer a very uplifting scent.

The most popular essential oils for DIY bath salts include: lavender, sweet orange, roman chamomile, tea tree, eucalyptus, bergamot, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, jasmine, rose, lemongrass, clary sage, frankincense, ylang ylang, vanilla, and rosemary. Use one scent alone, or try mixing two or three. 

Tip: Balance sweet, woody, or floral scents with a more bright, herbaceous or citrusy scent, such as lavender + eucalyptus or rosemary, chamomile + lemongrass, sandalwood or cedarwood + bergamot, or jasmine + sweet orange. Again, I recommend starting with just one, two, or maayyybe three scents combined.

Avoid using “hot” or potentially irritating essential oils like peppermint, wintergreen, cinnamon, clove, oregano, cassia, and thyme in the bath. 

What about baking soda?

Unlike some DIY bath salt recipes, I do not recommend adding baking soda to your bath salt blend unless you plan to use it immediately, or unless you’re using epsom salts only (no sea salt). The combination of baking soda and salt reacts to create carbon dioxide gas which will expand in packaging, and can even break glass jars in extreme circumstances! So, if you do want to include baking soda (which is great for softening skin) then simply add up to a half cup directly to your bathwater as it fills. 

Now, on to the easiest part… aside from soaking that is!

Instructions to Make DIY Bath Salts

1. First, add salts and colloidal oatmeal to a mixing bowl. Stir well to combine.
2. Next, drizzle over the vitamin E oil (or other oil) and then the dry herbs or flowers. Mix again.
3. Add your chosen essential oils and stir until everything is evenly combined.
4. Finally, package your homemade bath salts into aitight storage containers of choice, and enjoy your soak! Keep reading for tips on storing and using bath salts.

How to store bath salts

Store homemade bath salts in an airtight container. Sealable bags, a glass container with swing-top lid and gasket, or mason jars with tight-fitting lids work great. Store in a cool, dark, dry location. A good storage container should prevent moisture intrusion and clumping as well as keep in the aroma of the essential oils, helping your bath salts stay nice and fresh.

If you’re going to share your homemade bath salts with others, be sure to add a label that lists all of the ingredients! This way, the recipient can know what to expect and be aware of any potential allergens.

How much bath salts to add to the bathtub

Add anywhere from ¼ cup up to 2 cups of bath salts to a standard size bathtub. Unless I need intense relief, I tend to lean more on the light side since the ingredients we use are high quality (read: not exactly cheap). If I want a little extra oomph, I toss in an extra half cup of plain epsom salt in addition to my “special” DIY bath salts. 

Do not put bath salts in whirlpool tubs, hot tubs, or other tubs with jets unless the manufacturer specifies that’s okay.

How to add bath salts to your bath

There’s really no “wrong” way to add bath salts to a bath! However, if you’re using homemade bath salts made with essential oils and hope to bask in the aroma, I suggest waiting to add the bath salts until the tub is nearly full of warm water. Then stir the water around with your hand to help them dissolve. 

Essential oils are volatile (meaning they evaporate easily, especially when heated) so their aroma tends to dissipate more quickly than synthetic fragrances. If added to the bath too early, the smell can be quite faint by the time you’re ready to climb in! Close the bathroom door to keep the lovely scented steam in too.

How to make bath salts less messy

Some folks like to add bath salts directly to the bathwater. Soaking while rose petals swirl around you can certainly feel luxurious! On the other hand, some people may not like the feeling of floaties touching them as they soak. Or, want to deal with the clean up. For a mess-free, floaty-free bath salt experience, simply put your bath salts in a “tea bag” to steep! 

Add bath salts to a small reusable cotton drawstring bag, or fashion a steeping satchel out of organic cheesecloth and a hair tie or string. Hang or hold the teabag in the water near the downspout as the tub finishes filling. The salt will still dissolve and seep into the water, while the bag contains the herb and flower floaties. As an added bonus, the herbal tea bag doubles as an exfoliating wash cloth!

If you don’t steep your bath within a tea bag and they contain large flower or herb bits, you may want to use a mesh drain strainer to catch debris as the tub drains at the end of your bath.

How long to soak in bath salts (and how often)

To reap the maximum benefits from your bath salt experience, allow yourself to soak for 20 to 30 minutes. You can use bath salt soaks up to three times per week in times of need. 

It’s difficult to “overdo it” when it comes to bath salts, though too much could lead to dry skin in some sensitive individuals. Frequent bath salt soaks could also change vaginal pH levels, making a more hospitable environment for yeast infections or irritation. 

Should I rinse off after a bath salt soak?

That’s up to you! A strong bath salt soak (using 1 to 2 cups of bath salts) could potentially leave skin feeling dry later, depending on the other ingredients in your bath salt recipe. You may also want to rinse off if your bath had herbs and flowers floating around that are now stuck to your skin. Since I usually steep my herbal bath salts in a tea bag (and my tub is separate from my shower) I personally don’t feel the need to rinse off afterwards. 

Can bath salts expire?

Salts themselves (epsom salt and sea salt) do not expire. Similarly, homemade bath salts will not “go bad” but they’ll be the best quality if used within a year or two. The other ingredients added to DIY bath salts such as oils, colloidal oatmeal, or dried herbs may have a “best by” date or degrade in quality over time. 

Are bath salts bad for septic systems?

No, bath salts should not harm your septic system. (For the record, I used to permit septic systems for the county!) In general, highly salty water isn’t great for septic systems. For instance, most septic experts advise against discharging water softener backwash (brine) into septic tanks. However, the water from an occasional bath salt soak has a very dilute salt concentration in comparison. 

Plus, epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) aren’t actually a true “salt”, remember?  Epsom salts are completely harmless to septic systems. In fact, some septic professionals actually suggest adding epsom salt to septic systems. They claim that they help the system run more efficiently and encourage healthier plant growth in the drainage field. So, fear not!

If you plan to use bath salts routinely (e.g. once a week or more) and have a septic tank, use a 2:1 epsom salt to sea salt ratio. Or, use just epsom salts alone to make homemade bath salts.

Are bath salt soaks safe during pregnancy?

If you’re pregnant, talk with your doctor before using bath salts. While warm (not hot) baths are generally safe during pregnancy, it’s unclear if adding bath salts is recommended. Many sources say that natural bath salts made with epsom salts are okay to use while pregnant, and can provide much-needed relief from the discomforts that go hand-in-hand with pregnancy. Yet it’s suggested to exercise caution with essential oils while pregnant, and avoid them entirely during the first trimester. It’s also important to avoid bath salts that contain artificial fragrances, phthalates, or other chemicals.

And that’s how to make your own beautiful, natural DIY bath salts!

I hope you found this tutorial to be both insightful and inspiring. As you can see, making homemade bath salts is quite easy to do, flexible, and perfect for self-care and thoughtful gifts alike. Have fun getting creative and making your own! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments. Also please consider leaving a rating or review below. Happy soaking!

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DIY Bath Salts Recipe ~ Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts

Learn how to make beautiful homemade bath salts using natural ingredients like epsom salt, sea salt, herbs, flowers, and organic essential oils. Perfect for self-care or a thoughtful DIY gift to share, bath salt soaks help alleviate stress, tension, sore muscles, inflammation, and more.

Ingredients

• 4 cups salts of choice, such as epsom salt, sea salt, and/or pink Himalayan salt. I often use three kinds (e.g. 2 cups of epsom salt, 1 cup grey sea salt, and 1 cup pink).
• 1/2 to 1 cup dried herbs or flowers, such as dried rose petals, lavender, calendula flowers, chamomile, rosemary, mint leaves, lemon verbena, or even dried citrus – just to name a few! (do not use fresh herbs or flowers as they may mold in storage)
• 1/2 cup colloidal oat powder
• 2 Tbsp Vitamin E oil (sub with olive oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, or other carrier oil of choice)
• 1/2 tsp (50 drops) up to 1 teaspoon (100 drops) of essential oils of choice – such as 30 drops lavender and 20 drops eucalyptus. Sliding scale based on how strong you want the scent. I recommend using just one or two scents.

Instructions

• First, add salts and colloidal oatmeal to a mixing bowl. Stir well to combine.
• Next, drizzle over the vitamin E oil (or other oil) and then the dry herbs or flowers. Mix again.
• Add your chosen essential oils and stir until everything is evenly combined.
• Finally, package your homemade bath salts into air tight storage containers of choice.
• Add 1/4 cup up to 2 cups of bath salts to warm water once the bathtub is nearly full and stir in to dissolve OR for a floaty-free soak, put the bath salts in a small reusable cotton "tea bag" or cheesecloth and steep them that way.

The post DIY Bath Salts Recipe: Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

There are two ways to make herb infused oils: using a quick heat method, or a slow cold infusion. Slow infusions are usually considered superior (most therapeutic) since they don’t expose the herbs or oil to heat – which can destroy or degrade the benefits of both. We’ll explore both methods today.

What is an herb oil infusion?

As the name implies, herb infused oils are created by steeping herbs in oil, such as olive oil, coconut oil, or sweet almond oil. As they infuse, beneficial compounds, fatty acids, and natural essential oils are drawn out of the herbs and into the surrounding oil. Later, the plant material is strained – leaving behind a medicinal herb oil. You can use any combination of herbs and carrier oils of choice (explored more to follow). I recommend using dry herbs for the best results.

Depending on the type of oil and herbs used, some herbal oils can be used in edible culinary creations – such as a salad dressing or marinade. Topically, herb infused oils can be used directly on skin or as a key ingredient to make salves, lip balm, soap, and other natural body care products. See a full list of ways to use your homemade herb infused oil at the end of this post!

What types of herbs to use for oil infusions?

Though we’re calling them “herbal oils” today, you can infuse all sorts of things in oil including flowers, berries, leaves, roots, stems, spices or fruit. For instance, we love making homemade rosehip infused oil – which is technically a fruit.

Use what suits your needs, and what you have available to you! For instance, calendula-infused oil can work wonders for skin conditions like rashes, dermatitis, or eczema, while comfrey is traditionally used for healing wounds. We usually rely on homegrown herbs, but occasionally buy organic dry herbs for infusions too. Starwest Botanicals offers a great selection of high-quality, ethically-sourced bulk herbs, flowers, spices and more.

Before you start, it’s important to become familiar with the properties, benefits, and possible side effects of the herbs you’re using – so do your research! I highly recommend Rosemary Gladstar’s book: A Beginner’s Guide to Medicinal Herbs, or her Herbal Recipes book.

Herbs commonly used in herb oil infusions:

• Basil
• Calendula
• Chamomile
• Chickweed
• Citrus peels
• Comfrey
• Dandelion 
• Echinacea
• Elderberry/elderflower
• Hibiscus flowers
• Lavender
• Lemon Balm
• Lemon Verbena
• Nettles
• Marshmallow Root
• Mint 
• Pine 
• Plantain leaves
• Red clover
• Red raspberry leaf
• Rose hips
• Rose petals
• Rosemary
• Sage
• St. John’s wort
• Thyme
• Yarrow
• Violet

Carrier oil options to make medicinal infusions

There are dozens of different carrier oil options to choose from. I often use more than one type of oil in the same herbal infusion to reap the benefits and balance of both!

Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, and argan oil are popular to make natural skin and body care products (and some of my personal favorites). Those oils are all highly healing and moisturizing in their own right, and even more so once infused with medicinal herbs! Edible oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, or hemp seed oil are great choices to make herb infused oils intended for culinary use. 

Pop over to this article to learn more: 11 Best Carrier Oils for Skin Care, Salves and Infusions. It explores the pros, potential cons, comedogenic ratings, extraction methods, and other characteristics of 11 popular carrier oil options so you can pick the best oil for your skin type and needs. I personally prefer to use certified organic cold-pressed oils.

Using fresh vs dry herbs for oil infusions

It’s best to use dry herbs to create the most foolproof, safe, and long-lasting herbal oil infusions in most cases. Why? The high moisture content (water) found in fresh herbs can cause the oil to spoil and grow mold. Oil and water don’t mix, you know… Though some herbalists take their chances with fresh herbs, I’d rather play it safe than sorry. After all the time and effort of growing, harvesting, and infusing your herbs, moldy oil would be devastating! 

Since dry herbs are more highly concentrated (and more can fit inside a container), using dry herbs can also yield a more potent infusion. 

It’s okay to use fresh herbs in an infusion that you’ll use up fairly quickly, such as a small batch of basil or rosemary infused olive oil that you plan to use within a few weeks. It’s also less risky to use fresh herbs when using the quick heat method to make herb-infused oil, since some of the moisture can evaporate off while heating. However, I still recommend allowing the herbs to air dry for a day or two – or at least wilt and partially dry first.

How to dry herbs

You can dry herbs in a food dehydrator, hang them up to dry, or spread them on a screened herb-drying rack. Allow them to dry until they’re completely brittle and crisp, where no evident moisture or suppleness remains.

To air-dry herbs, it’s important to do so in a warm, dry location with good airflow. Using a fan nearby will help. Note that it may not be possible to air dry herbs in all climates or conditions. If it’s too cool or humid, the herbs may mold before they’re completely dry.

When using a food dehydrator, set it to the lowest temperature possible so the herbs retain their maximum beneficial properties. We almost exclusively dry herbs and flowers in our Excalibur food dehydrator. I love the large capacity, even and efficient drying, and precise temperature controls – including the “living foods setting” we use for medicinal herbs.

Should I wash herbs before drying them?

It depends. Some gardeners and herbalists avoid washing herbs before drying because the added moisture may prevent them from drying properly and potentially lead to mold. This is especially a concern when air-drying herbs, but shouldn’t be an issue when using a food dehydrator. If herbs are particularly dirty, the extra step of washing them may be preferred. Shake them out well (or even toss them in a salad spinner) to remove excess water after washing. I personally only wash herbs that I plan to use in cooking. 

How to an Make Herbal Oil Infusion

Supplies needed

• Herbs. Dried herbs are best for a slow cold infusion. Fresh herbs, wilted herbs, or dry herbs can be used with the quick heat method. 
• A carrier oil of choice, such as jojoba oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, or other.
• A glass container with a tight-fitting lid. Use something as small as a half-pint mason jar, or as large as a half-gallon jar! The size simply depends on how much herb infused oil you intend to make.
• Fine-mesh colander, reusable nut milk bag and/or cheesecloth for straining. 
• Storage containers for finished oil, such as glass jars or amber dropper bottles.
• Optional: a slow-cooker or double boiler and probe thermometer (only if you intend to use the quick heat method)

Option 1: Slow Cold Infusion 

The first option is the easiest, but does require a little patience: simply allow dry herbs to soak in oil at room temperature for several weeks. Known as slow or cold infusion, this method relies on a passive process to gently extract beneficial compounds from the herbs. Since it’s not exposed to heat, the maximum therapeutic properties of both the oil and herbs are retained. The herbs should soak in oil for a minimum of 2 or 3 weeks, up to 4 to 6 weeks for the most medicinal oil possible. 

Directions

1. Start by filling a clean glass container at least two-thirds full with dry herbs. Feel free to fill the container even more to create a stronger infusion. Yes, you can mix several different types of herbs together if you’d like!
   
   
2. Pour oil over the dry herbs until they’re completely covered by at least an inch or two of oil (though they may float, that’s okay). If you wish to get more technical and measure, aim for an herb to oil ratio of about 1 part dry plant material by weight to 5 parts oil by volume. For example, 1 ounce of herbs to 5 fluid ounces of oil.
   
   
3. Add a lid and set the jar in a dark place to infuse for several weeks. Some herbalists like to use the “solar infusion” method, steeping the herbs and oil in a sunny window to garner luminary warmth and energy. Yet others say that sunlight can reduce the potency of herbs or make oil go rancid more quickly. So, it’s a bit of a controversial topic! We’ve done both methods and never had oil spoil on us.
   
   
4. Though not necessary, you can give the jar of oil a gentle shake or tilt from time to time. This is especially helpful during the first few days to rotate/submerge any “floaters” on top.
   
   
5. Occasionally, condensation may develop near the top portion of the jar. If you notice this, simply open the jar and wipe it away with a clean paper towel.
   

6. When the time is up, strain the herbs from the oil. I place a nut milk bag or layer of cheesecloth inside of a fine colander perched on top of a bowl, and then pour the oil through both. After it sits to drain a bit, I wring out any leftover oil from the herbs by squeezing the nut milk bag or cloth. Compost the leftover herbs.
   
   
7. Transfer the finished herb infused oil into a clean storage container with a lid, and store it in a cool dark place. I like to use amber dropper bottles for face and body oil, storing the excess in a larger jar in the fridge for refills. The dark glass protects the medicinal herb oil from light degradation, so I can safely keep it out on my bathroom counter too. (See shelf life information below.)
   

8. Now go enjoy your creation! I’ve included a list of ways to use medicinal herb oils at the end of this post. 

Option 2: Quick Heat Method

The quick heat method is a simple, fast way to create herb infused oils without waiting for them to passively steep. Though we’ll be lightly heating the herbs and oil, it’s important to keep everything at 110°F or below to avoid degrading the quality of the oil and herbs. It’s okay to use fresh, wilted, or dry herbs with this method.

Directions

1. Start by chopping up the herbs you wish to infuse. Smaller pieces = more surface area = stronger infusion.
   
   
2. Add the herbs to a slow cooker (crock pot) or the top portion of a double boiler on the stove. If you don’t have a double boiler, create your own by nesting a glass bowl or smaller pot inside of a larger pot of water below. The top/inner pot should touch the water, but not rest all the way on the bottom of the lower pot.
   
   
3. Pour over enough oil to submerge and cover the herbs by at least an inch or two. It isn’t necessary to measure, but you can if you wish. For fresh herbs, aim for an herb-to-oil ratio of 1 part fresh herbs by weight to 3 parts oil by volume (e.g. 1 ounce fresh herbs to 3 fluid ounces oil). For dry herbs, use 1 part dry plant material to to 5 parts oil by volume (e.g. 1 ounce dried herbs to 5 fluid ounces oil). For wilted herbs, use a ratio of 1:4.
   
   
4. Gently heat the oil, but do not boil it. Between 95 and 110°F is ideal. Check the temperature with a probe thermometer and adjust the heat if needed. In a crockpot, use the lowest temperature or “keep warm” setting.
   
   
5. Allow the oil and herbs to simmer together for at least 30 minutes, up to several hours for a more potent infusion. (Some medicinal herb oil recipes call for 12 to 24 hours in a slow cooker). Important: To prevent spoilage, leave the lid off so moisture from the fresh herbs can evaporate and escape. The more fresh the herbs, the longer I suggest lightly heating to ensure water content is reduced.
   
   
6. Finally, strain and store the oil as explained in the “slow infusion method” section above.

How long does herb infused oil last?

The shelf life of herbal oils varies depending on the type of carrier oil used, if the herbs were adequately dried before steeping, and how the oil is stored. Most herb infused oils should stay good for about a year when made with dry herbs and stored sealed in a cool, dark place.

Some oils have a naturally shorter shelf life than others (such as grape seed and sweet almond oil), while jojoba oil can stay good for 5 years or more! Furthermore, refrigeration may be recommended for some oils. Refer to the oil manufacturer’s instructions, and see the expected shelf life of various carrier oils here.

If the herbal oil is used to make salve, lip balm, lotion, soap, or other goodies, the shelf life is extended since other preservatives are often used in those items. Beeswax is an excellent natural preservative for example! 

Visible mold and/or sour, putrid, or otherwise “off” odors are signs that oil has gone bad or rancid and should be discarded. However, cloudiness is not usually a sign of spoilage (unless accompanied by a bad smell) and can be common in herb infused oils. 

Ways to use herb infused oil

Here are some general ideas and ways to use medicinal herbal oils, but use your noggin’! Be sure the use is appropriate and safe for the type of carrier oil and herbs you used. 

• As body oil or massage oil 
• Facial moisturizer – just a few drops will do!
• Work a few drops through damp hair to soften hair and smooth split ends.
• As an ingredient in other homemade body care products like salve, soap, cream, lotion, lip balm, ointment, or other natural skincare products. Check out our lip balm and salve recipes here! For more ideas, I highly recommend this organic body care recipe book. It’s loaded with awesome recipes!
• If you used an edible carrier oil, you can use your herbal oil as a tasty marinade, salad dressing or in other culinary creations. 
• As part of your oil cleansing method
• As spot treatment directly on scars, stretch marks, varicose veins, or other areas of concern.
• To soothe rashes, bug bites eczema, psoriasis, scrapes, burns, or other skin irritations
• On cracked heels, cuticles, feet, dry elbows, or other rough patches of skin. 
• On chapped or cracked lips, or around your nose when it’s chaffed. 
• To treat cradle cap on babies (check your carrier oil safety first).
• To remove makeup (but avoid contact with sensitive areas around your eyes)

And that concludes this lesson on making herb infused oil.

Easy, right? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel excited and empowered to go make herbal oil infusions of your own. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this to be useful, please consider leaving a star rating or sharing this post. Well, I gotta run – it’s time to go strain our next batch of face oil! Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy infusing!

Don’t miss these related posts:

• How to Make Salve or Balms 101: Simple Flexible Recipe
• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Hemp Oil and Salve Recipe
• How to Make and Use Homemade Lavender Oil, Calendula Oil, or Rosehip Infused Oil

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How to Make Medicinal Herb Infused Oil (Slow Infusion or Quick Heat)

Learn how to make medicinal herb infused oils with fresh or dry herbs two ways: with a slow infusion or quick heat method. It's easy to do, and once you know the basics, the options of what you can create are endless. Face oil, healing salves, homemade soap… oh my!

Keyword herb infused oil, herbal oil infusion, homemade herbal oil, medicinal herb oil

Equipment

• A glass container with lid, large enough to fit the herbs and oil you plan to use
• Fine mesh strainer and cheesecloth or a nut milk bag
• Optional: double boiler or crock pot (slow cooker) and probe thermometer, for quick heat method only

Ingredients

• Herbs. Dried are best, especially for a cold slow infusion. Fresh, wilted, or dry herbs okay for quick heat method.
• Carrier oil of choice (e.g. olive oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, or other)

Instructions

SLOW COLD INFUSION

• Fill a clean glass container at least two-thirds full with dry herbs.
• Pour over enough oil to cover the herbs by an inch or two.
• Add a lid, and let the infusion sit in a dark location for several weeks (at least 2, up to 6 weeks for maximum potency).

QUICK HEAT METHOD

• Chop herbs into small pieces
• Add herbs to a slow cooker, or the top portion of a double boiler on the stovetop
• Pour over enough oil to cover the herbs by an inch or two.
• Gently heat the herbs and oil for at least 30 minutes, up to 12 hours. Maintain temperature below 110F as much as possible.
• Leave the lid OFF so moisture can evaporate.

STRAINING AND STORAGE (both methods)

• Strain the herbs from the oil using a fine mesh colander lined with cheesecloth or a reusable nut milk bag. Let drip drain for a bit, then squeeze excess oil from the herbs.
• Transfer the finished herb infused oil into clean storage containers of choice. Compost the spent herbs.
• Store herb infused oil in a cool dark place. Refrigeration not usually necessary, but may extend shelf life.
• Most herb infused oils stay good for up to a year or longer. Check the instructions and expected shelf life of your particular carrier oil. Discard oil if it develops mold or putrid/sour smells.
• Enjoy your herb oil as-is, or use it as an ingredient in other products.

The post How to Make Medicinal Herb Infused Oil: Two Ways appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

A note about oil and skin health

When it comes to skin care, don’t be afraid of oil! Contrary to popular belief, using oil on your face won’t necessarily make it more oily or cause breakouts. (Especially if you choose the right carrier oil for your skin). Rather, oil plays a vital role in skin health. Many modern skin care products claim to “reduce shine” and impurities. In reality, they strip away natural oils, leaving your skin tight, high and dry. Dry irritated skin then overcompensates and produces more oil. All aboard the greasy rollercoaster, amirite?  

Instead, just a few drops of the right oil can restore natural sebum balance, lock in moisture, soothe irritation, and heal “imperfections”. In fact, homemade face oils are the only thing I use on my face anymore – and my skin has never been happier! It’s time to embrace fresh and dewey shine, and leave the rollercoaster behind. 

What is an herbal infusion?

Herbal infusions are created by steeping dry herbs (or other dried plant material like flowers, spices, or fruit) in a carrier oil of choice for an extended period of time. It’s crucial to use dry plant material for oil infusions as wet material can easily lead to mold and spoilage. The vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and other beneficial components of the herbs are slowly extracted into the surrounding carrier oil. 

Then, the infused oil may be used on its own – such as directly on your face or hair, or a culinary oil for salad dressing or cooking. Infused oils also serve as an important base ingredient in homemade personal care products such as salves, balms, body butter, lotion, lip balm, soap and more. Of course, you can use plain oil (not infused with herbs) in all these things too!

I will write up a guide with more detailed instructions and best practices on making herbal oil infusions soon. In the meantime, check out our guides on how to make calendula oil, lavender oil, rosehip oil, or cannabis-infused oil.

Choosing the Best Carrier Oil

When it comes to choosing a carrier oil, there is no single “best” option. What works well for you depends on your skin type, preferences, budget, and what you intend to use it for! For instance, olive oil and avocado oil are awesome options for edible creations, ultra-rich coconut oil and sweet almond oil make fantastic body care products, while you may prefer something more delicate (and non-comedogenic) like argan oil or jojoba oil for your face. 

Here are a few other things to consider:

Extraction Method: Refined vs Unrefined Oils 

Have you ever wondered what cold-pressed vs expeller-pressed oil means? Or, what’s the difference between refined and unrefined oils? Both of these concepts relate to how an oil was extracted or produced, and greatly influence the final product! 

Broadly speaking, “virgin” cold-pressed or unrefined oils are considered the highest quality carrier oils for skin care. Cold-pressed (unrefined) oils are created by crushing and pressing the raw material to extract oil without the use of heat. By avoiding heat exposure, cold-pressed oils retain the highest nutrient content. Even more, cold-pressed oils are not exposed to toxins that often go hand-in-hand with other extraction methods.

In contrast, refined oils are extracted with heat. They’re often further heavily processed and filtered to remove color, odor, or other “impurities”. Yet at the same time, they’re also being stripped of many health benefits. Enzymes and nutrients are destroyed during high-heat mechanical extraction (including expeller-pressed). What’s worse, heat can create new toxic byproducts such as polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) – known carcinogens. Toxins like hexane are also introduced during chemical or solvent extraction, further contaminating the oil.

Oil labels or product descriptions should always specify if it’s refined, unrefined, or what extraction method was used.

Benefits of Organic Carrier Oils

Personally, we like to use certified organic carrier oils to make skin care products and infusions. The goal is to create the most healthy, healing, and helpful products possible after all! Plus, our skin is our largest organ – and a highly absorbent one at that. Be it olives, sunflowers, or almonds, if a crop was treated with pesticides and herbicides while it was growing, residual toxins will be present in the oil extraction too, and likely even more concentrated than they were on the crop themselves! 

The same idea applies to essential oils, which is why we only use USDA-certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy. Many other popular EO brands claim to be “self-certified” or “better than organic” but I am skeptical. This is a personal decision of course, but we try to be just as cautious about what we put ON our bodies as what we put in them. 

Comedogenic Ratings

The comedogenic scale is a rating system for how likely an oil (or other product) is to clog your pores and therefore cause breakouts. The lower the comedogenic rating, the least likely it is to clog your pores. Therefore, carrier oils with a rating of 0 to 2 are considered “non-comedogenic”. A rating of 3 is slightly comedogenic, and 4 to 5 is moderate-to-highly comedogenic and very likely to clog pores. In most cases, oils with higher ratings are increasingly thick or “greasy”, while lower-ranked oils are more lightweight and easily absorb into skin.  

The severity of the potential breakout depends on each individual’s skin and sensitivities, as well as the part of the body the oil is used on. For instance, using a comedogenic oil or butter may not cause issues when applied to your legs, hands or arms, though it may lead to acne when used on your face, shoulders or back. 

Mixing Oils

If you’re going through the list of the best carrier oils below and think “shoot, several of these sound good!” then by all means: mix them up! Create your own custom blend with two or three different oils. For example, we usually use half sweet almond oil and half sunflower carrier oil in the organic skin care products we offer in our shop. Both are organic, cold-pressed, and highly nourishing, but offer a great balance to one another – both in texture and in price. 

Shelf Life and Storage 

You may also want to consider shelf life and storage requirements when choosing a carrier oil for skin care or infusions. For instance, rosehip oil tends to have a shorter shelf life (only 6 months) while jojoba oil stays good for up to 5 years! Some oils suggest refrigerating after opening (especially hemp oil), while many others do not. These characteristics vary a lot by brand and formulation, so refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations on the bottle.

Now without further ado…

11 Best Carrier Oils for Skin, Salves, Edibles and More

1) Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Comedogenic rating: Olive oil comes in at a 2 on the comedogenic scale. Though it’s only “mildly comedogenic”, olive oil is known to be on the thick and heavy side – which may lead to breakouts for acne-prone individuals. 

Edible? Yes. As a popular healthy cooking oil, olive oil is an ideal choice for edible herb infusions, such as homemade rosemary or basil-infused oil! 

Unique properties: Extra virgin olive oil (also known as EVOO) is possibly one of the most readily-available oils on this list. You should be able to find great organic olive oil options at your local natural food store! High in natural fatty acids, polyphenols and vitamin A, E, D and K, it is also extremely nourishing and hydrating for dry skin and hair. Olive oil also contains a rare antioxidant called hydroxytyrosol, an anti-aging compound that protects against free radical damage. 

Compared to many other carrier oils, olive oil does have a fairly strong and distinct odor and flavor, which will also influence your final product.  

2) Argan Oil

Comedogenic rating: Coming in with a rating of zero, argan oil is totally non-comedogenic. 

Edible? Argan oil is available in both culinary-grade (edible) and cosmetic-only (non-edible) versions, so read the label! It has a subtle nutty flavor.

Unique properties: Argan oil, also known as Moroccan oil, is fantastic for your skin! It goes on light but is highly moisturizing, and is a great choice for all skin types. The high levels of Vitamin E, stearic acid, and palmitic fatty acid found in argan oil help to reduce fine lines, discoloration, scars, excess oil production, and even acne. It’s known to soften skin, increase elasticity, and protect against sun damage. It’s also a very popular ingredient in hair care products. Argan is one of my personal favorite carrier oils for skin care!

3) Jojoba Oil

Comedogenic rating: Jojoba oil is rated a 2 but is still considered non-comedogenic. The molecular structure of jojoba closely resembles that of our skin’s natural oils, so it absorbs exceptionally well! Overall, it’s lightweight, non-greasy, and tolerated well by most users. In fact, it is one of the most popular carrier oils for skin care!

Edible? No, jojoba oil is not edible. Even though it shouldn’t be consumed in large quantities, it’s perfectly safe to use jojoba oil as a carrier oil for homemade lip balm recipes however! 

Unique properties: Jojoba oil (which is actually a liquid wax, not a true oil) is an antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory. It boasts high levels of Vitamin E, zinc, and omega fatty acids. All of which make jojoba oil effective at soothing eczema, acne, psoriasis, wounds, and other skin conditions. Its exceptional shelf-life (up to 5 years), neutral aroma and color are added benefits.

Eicosenoic acid (EA) accounts for 70% of the total fatty acids found in jojoba oil – a powerful plant-based monounsaturated fatty acid. EA works to break down oil build up, unclog pores, remove impurities, and reduce excess sebum (oil) production. This helps stressed skin regain a healthy moisture balance, and makes jojoba a great option for those with dry, oily, or combination skin alike! Because of this however, some people experience a temporary initial “purge” of small breakouts when they first begin to use jojoba oil. Rest assured it’s just doing its job.

4) Coconut Oil (Regular or Fractionated)

Comedogenic rating: Regular coconut oil (the stuff that is solid at room temperature) is a 4 on the comedogenic scale, which means it is likely to cause breakouts. On the other hand, fractionated coconut oil (liquid at room temperature) is slightly lower – rated a 2 to 3.

Edible? Yep! Coconut oil is a good choice for edible infusions, though keep in mind it will add a coconut-y flavor to your final product. 

Unique properties: Rich, luxurious, and loaded with nutrients, coconut oil is often praised for its numerous benefits in the world of natural health and beauty. In addition to offering deep moisture to soften skin and hair, the high levels of lauric and caprylic acid in coconut oil make it antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antifungal. Meaning, coconut oil can aid in healing wounds, infections, and potentially acne. 

However, acne-prone folks should proceed with caution – especially with coconut oil infusions intended for your face, shoulders, or upper back. Coconut is exceptionally thick and can easily clog pores, counterproductive to its healing properties. In that case, fractionated coconut oil may be a better choice, which is less thick and greasy.

5) Sweet Almond Oil

Comedogenic rating: Sweet almond oil is rated 2 on the comedogenic scale, but it is still largely considered “non-comedogenic” and is unlikely to cause breakouts.

Edible? Sweet almond oil is indeed edible, though cooking or high heat will decrease its nutritional value.

Unique properties: Sweet almond oil is rich but gentle. It’s an excellent carrier oil choice for sensitive skin, dry and delicate skin, and is also safe for babies. Sweet almond oil is packed with vitamins and nutrients, including omega 6 and 9 fatty acids, vitamin A and E, potassium, and zinc. It’s effective at reducing inflammation, excess sebum, eczema, acne, and dryness. Sweet almond oil may help to improve overall skin tone and complexion by reducing scars, dark circles, and discoloration.

6) Rosehip Seed Oil

Comedogenic rating: Rosehip oil has a comedogenic rating of 1, making it non-comedogenic.   

Edible? Rosehip oil is made by pressing the fruit and seeds of rosehips, the small berry-like fruit of rose plants. Though rosehips themselves are edible, it’s generally recommended to NOT consume processed (concentrated) rosehip oil or use it internally. 

Unique properties: Rosehip oil is a lightweight and hydrating carrier oil that absorbs easily into skin. It’s loaded with antioxidants, essential fatty acids, flavonoids, polyphenols, and Vitamins C, A, B, E and F that all help fight inflammation, redness, scars, fine lines, stretch marks, and sun damage. Rosehip oil also contains retinoids that can soothe acne, dermatitis, psoriasis and eczema. 

All in all, rosehip oil is really fantastic for your skin! However, it’s fairly rare and costly to make, so high-quality rosehip oil tends to cost a pretty penny. So, we make our own rosehip-infused oil instead! Learn how here. It’s not exactly the same as a commercially-extracted rosehip seed oil, but by steeping homegrown organic rosehips in a carrier oil of choice (such as argan oil) we’re able to reap the benefits of both!

7) Hemp Seed Oil

Comedogenic rating: Hemp seed oil is another zero on the comedogenic scale.   

Edible? Yes! In fact, hemp seed oil is becoming increasingly popular to use in salads, smoothies and other meals as an easy source of healthy essential fatty acids. Hemp seed oil has a low smoke point so it’s not the best for hot cooking.

Unique properties: Hemp seed oil is a fine carrier oil choice for any skin type! Chock-full of omega 6 fatty acids, a powerful anti-inflammatory that also promotes new healthy cell growth, hemp oil can calm irritation, psoriasis, eczema and acne. It’s very light, “dry”, and highly absorbable oil because it closely resembles the fat and amino acid composition as our skin’s natural sebum. Hemp seed oil will leave your skin supple and hydrated but not greasy.  

Note: Don’t confuse hemp seed oil with other hemp oils. Hemp seed oil is an innocuous oil that comes from hemp seeds, not cannabis flower. Unlike some other types of hemp oil out there, it does not contain cannabinoids like THC or CBD.

8) Sunflower Oil

Comedogenic rating: Sunflower oil is non-comedogenic (rated 0 or 1 depending on how it was processed) and will not clog your pores.

Edible? Technically, sunflower oil is edible. Yet when it’s exposed to extreme heat (such as frying), sunflower oil can produce harmful substances including aldehydes – a toxin that is linked to cancer, heart disease and dementia. Therefore, it’s best to avoid cooking with sunflower oil. On the other hand, rest assured that lightly heating sunflower oil to make salve or balm (e.g. in a double boiler) is not hot enough to form aldehydes. (It has to be heated to 365F or 180C for that to occur). 

Unique properties: Sunflower oil is exceptionally high in Vitamin E, an incredible antioxidant that rejuvenates skin while fighting inflammation, redness, irritation, free radicals, and UV sun damage. It’s also known to help repair the natural skin barrier. High oleic sunflower oil has the longest shelf life along with the highest concentrations of Vitamin E, C, K, and nourishing omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids. 

Sunflower oil is considered a “dry oil”, meaning it is lightweight, absorbs quickly, and leaves your skin feeling hydrated but not greasy. That said, it doesn’t provide as intense of moisture as other carrier oils on the list but is a good choice for oily and combination skin. It’s also a good one to pair with heavier oils if you’re considering mixing a couple.

9) Avocado Oil

Comedogenic rating: Avocado oil is rated a 3 on the comedogenic scale. 

Edible: Absolutely! Along with olive oil, avocado oil is an ideal option for edible oil infusions.

Unique properties: Avocado oil is thick and somewhat heavy, and offers deep, long-lasting, skin-softening moisture. It’s a great carrier oil for dry skin or luxurious body creams, but may not be the best choice for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Avocado oil boasts lofty levels of fatty acids, lecithin, beta carotene, protein, and vitamins E, A, and D. Studies show it can help boost collagen production as well as aid in healing wounds, inflammation, scars, age spots, and potentially psoriasis. Note that avocado oil is typically quite green. This will impact the color of your herbal infusion, salve, or balm. 

10) Safflower Oil

Comedogenic rating: Safflower oil is rated 0 on the comedogenic scale, so it should not lead to breakouts.

Edible? Safflower oil is edible at both low and high temperatures. 

Unique properties: Safflower oil is often underrated as a carrier oil for skin. While it doesn’t quite have the allure of argan or esteem of EVOO, safflower oil has a lot to offer for dry, acne-prone, oily, or sensitive skin alike! Its neutral aroma lends itself well to herbal infusions and homemade body care products. 

Like sunflower oil, safflower oil is a lightweight “dry oil” that soaks right in but offers long-lasting hydration. Similar to jojoba, safflower oil is known to help unclog pores and restore balance to natural oil levels. It boasts antioxidants and fatty acids that can soothe inflammation, psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, and protect against UV damage. The high linoleic acid content in safflower oil promotes cell renewal to improve acne, scars, hyperpigmentation and overall skin texture.  

Note: Safflower oil comes from a flower that is part of the ragweed family. Thus, those with allergies to ragweed should avoid this oil. 

11) Grapeseed Oil

Comedogenic rating: Grapeseed oil is rated 1 on the comedogenic scale.

Edible? Yes, but not recommended for high-heat cooking. When exposed to high heat (such as frying) it forms harmful compounds and free radicals.

Unique properties: Grapeseed oil is naturally antimicrobial and may help reduce acne. It’s high in polyunsaturated fats (mostly omega 6 fatty acids) and Vitamin E. As another “dry” oil, grapeseed oil is especially lightweight, non-greasy, and easily absorbs into skin. It won’t provide quite as deep of moisture as some other oils on the list, which makes it a great carrier oil choice for oily skin – or one to combine with another richer oil.

One thing to be aware of is that grapeseed oil is sometimes contaminated with trace PAHs – or polyaromatic hydrocarbons (known carcinogens). This occurs when the grapeseeds are heated to dry before extraction, so cold-pressed grapeseed oil doesn’t necessarily avoid this. The PAH content seems unpredictable and varies depending on how the oil is further refined and filtered after extraction.

And that sums up the 11 best carrier oil options for your skin, body, and culinary creations!

Well folks, I hope that was enlightening and informative! There are so many awesome carrier oil options out there, but it was pretty easy to narrow it down to these top 11 choices. I left out a few other popular options like castor oil (great for hair growth and inflammation, but rather thick for your face) and meadowfoam oil (more rare and difficult to source organic). Did I miss your favorite? Please let us know or feel free to ask any questions in the comments below. Also please consider pinning or sharing this post if you found it useful! Thanks for tuning in.

Don’t miss these related posts:

• Homemade Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• How to Make Lavender Oil, Calendula Oil or Rosehip Oil
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Cannabis Oil and Salve Recipe (THC or CBD)

The post 11 Best Carrier Oils for Skin Care, Salves and Infusions appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

I used to buy rosehip oil all the time; I love to use it as a facial moisturizer. But then we moved into a new homestead with established rose vines, so I started harvesting and drying my own hips! I love that I can now make rosehip oil with homegrown ingredients, though it’s even easier to buy dried rosehips to use in this recipe.

Benefits of Rosehip Oil for Skin

Rose hips are the fruit of rose plants, and rosehip oil is like a superfood for your skin! Studies confirm that rose hips are exceptionally rich in antioxidants, healthy omega fatty acids (oleic, linoleic and linolenic acid), polyphenols, flavonoids, and many vitamins, including Vitamins C, A, B, E and F. By infusing rose hips in oil, all those therapeutic compounds are extracted into the carrier oil and transformed into a highly-absorbable form to use topically. 

Rosehip oil hydrates skin while protecting against free radicals and sun damage. It can help to reduce inflammation and redness as well as the appearance of scars, stretch marks, fine lines and other discoloration. Thanks to the presence of Vitamin A, retinoids, and Vitamin F, rosehip oil will also help fight acne, eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis while simultaneously locking in moisture. In a nutshell, rosehip oil has the potential to make your skin glow!

And that’s only highlighting the rose hips themselves. You’ll glean additional benefits depending on the oil you choose for your rosehip infusion. For example, I love to use organic argan oil to make homemade rosehip oil, which is well-known for its healing and protective properties too.

Supplies Needed to Make Rosehip Oil

1. Dry rose hips. You can use homegrown rosehips, wild foraged hips, or store-bought hips to make homemade rosehip oil. They can be left whole, or cut in half – your choice! We usually cut them in half to increase the surface area and flesh contact with the oil. Either way, they’ll need to be thoroughly dried before infusing them in oil. Fresh hips contain too much water and can make your oil go rancid! Buy organic dried rose hips here, or check out this article to learn how to harvest and dry your own fresh hips. 
   

2. Oil of choice, such as jojoba oil, extra virgin olive oil, or sweet almond oil. I love all of those, but am especially keen on argan oil right now. Read about various oil options and their benefits below. No matter the type, I highly recommend using an organic cold-pressed oil for the best quality!
   

3. A jar or other glass container with a lid. A pint jar is perfect for this recipe.
   

4. A fine-mesh strainer, sieve and/or cheesecloth to strain the infusion.
   
   
5. Bottles of choice for final storage and use – such as a small jar, oil dropper bottle, or a small pump bottle. 
   

6. Optional: If you want to your rosehip oil to be ready more quickly (using the low heat method) you’ll either need a crockpot (slow cooker) or a double-boiler to use on the stove.
   

Carrier Oil Options

You can make this homemade rosehip oil recipe with any type of oil you prefer. Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil and grapeseed oil are all popular choices for oil infusions intended to be used on your face. They’re all nutrient-rich, moisturizing, and rank 1 or 2 on the comedogenic scale – meaning they’re considered “noncomedogenic” and are unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts. 

Olive oil and coconut oil are even more hydrating but may cause breakouts for acne-prone skin, so I only like to use those for body oils and salves – not my face. However, using an edible oil like olive oil will enable you to consume your homemade rosehip oil if you wish (e.g. as salad dressing) and reap the immune-boosting benefits it offers! To use coconut oil, choose one that is liquid at room temperature.

My current favorite is organic argan oil. It is rated 0 on the comedogenic scale, and is known to protect against sun damage, treat acne, and soothe skin irritation. It’s loaded with vitamin E and antioxidants, making it highly nourishing and hydrating for your skin without being greasy. 

To explore even more oil options, pop over to our homemade calendula oil recipe where I cover 11 different carrier oils in more detail.

Instructions to Make Rosehip Oil (Slow Cold Infusion)

This is my favorite way to make rosehip oil. The passive cold infusion is easy and essentially hands-off! Also, avoiding high heat will better preserve the therapeutic compounds found in the hips. However, it does take more patience and time. So if you want your rosehip oil ASAP, try the stovetop method instead (described to follow).

Step 1: Mix Oil and Dry Rose Hips 

Start by combining 1 cup of dry rose hips with 1.5 to 2 cups of oil in a container with a lid. A glass container is ideal. For instance, I add 1 cup of dried rose hips to a pint mason jar, and then pour over enough oil to fill the rest of the jar (which ends up being about 1.75 cups). The final yield of finished rosehip oil will be about the same amount of oil you start with. Scale up or down as needed.

Remember it is essential to use dry rose hips, NOT fresh ones! Since the infusion will be strained at the end, it’s okay to use dry rose hips that haven’t been thoroughly cleaned or de-haired. I like to save my really clean homegrown dry hips to make rosehip tea, while saving the fuzzy or seedy ones for infusions. Plus, rosehip seeds contain many medicinal compounds too – so I welcome them to the mix!

Step 2: Infuse

Now we wait! Let the rosehip oil infusion sit at room temperature to steep for at least two weeks. If you have time, longer is even better! During this time, the beneficial compounds will be pulled from the rosehips and infused into the oil. Keep the container in a fairly cool and dark location. (Despite the name “cold infusion” it doesn’t need to be cold-cold. You just don’t want it sitting somewhere hot.)

I put my homemade rosehip oil either in a cabinet or on a dark shelf in the back of our Homestead and Chill storage room, where our calendula oil and lavender oil also hang out to infuse. I also like to occasionally shake the jar during this time (once every few days or whenever I see it and remember) though it’s not totally necessary. This particular batch sat for over a month, just because I was too busy to strain and bottle it.

Step 3: Strain

After two or more weeks, it’s time to strain the finished oil from the dry rose hips. Position a fine-mesh strainer (sieve) over a small bowl or fresh jar. If your rose hips were halved and at all hairy (or, if you want to put your finished oil in a pump bottle), I suggest lining the strainer with several layers of cheesecloth to better filter the oil. The sieve alone should be sufficient if you used whole dry rose hips. Now pour the rosehip oil through the filters and into the clean container below. Let it sit to drip awhile, and then compost or discard the solids.

Step 4: Bottle and Enjoy

Finally, transfer your homemade rosehip oil into a storage container – such a glass jar or bottle. Since I mostly use rosehip oil for my face (as a daily moisturizer) I like to store it in a small dropper bottle or pump bottle for easy application.

Store your finished rosehip oil in a cool dark place. The quality will be best if used within 6 months (also depending on the shelf life of your chosen oil). If the oil becomes cloudy, moldy, or develops an off odor, discontinue use. Storing rosehip oil in the refrigerator will help extend its shelf life up to a year or longer. Note that pure argan oil will solidify in the fridge. That’s normal, and a good sign that it’s pure! If you intend to leave it out (such as on your bathroom counter) I suggest using amber bottles to protect your oil from light degradation.

Keep reading below for more ideas of how to use homemade rosehip oil!

How to Make Rosehip Oil on the Stove (or in a crock pot)

To make rosehip oil in the stovetop or in a crock pot (aka slow cooker) it is important to maintain the lowest “warm” temperature possible. As I mentioned before, high heat can destroy the beneficial antioxidants and essential fatty acids in the rose hips. Therefore, I recommend using a probe thermometer to monitor the temperature of the oil and do your best to keep it below 100ᵒF at all times.

• Combine 1 cup of dry rose hips per 2 cups of oil either in a double-boiler or crock pot. Don’t have a double-boiler? Create your own by nesting a smaller pot inside of a larger one, or resting a heat-safe glass bowl on top of a pot of water.
  
• In a crock pot, use the lowest heat setting possible. In a double-boiler, bring the water in the lower pot to a low boil but then reduce down to a simmer. 
  
• Allow the mixture to infuse over low heat for several hours, up to 8 to 12 hours for maximum extraction. 
  
• Some herbalists recommend macerating or chopping up the rose hips prior to infusing to maximize the extraction. Another option is to press and mash the rose hips while they’re heating in the oil. 
  
• Allow to cool, and then thoroughly strain away the solids using a sieve and/or cheesecloth before bottling (as described in detail above).

12 Ways to Use Rosehip Oil

1. As a daily facial moisturizer. Use just a few drops; a little goes a long way!
   
   
2. As spot treatment directly on scars, eczema, stretch marks or other areas of concern. 
   
   
3. Use rosehip oil as an ingredient in other homemade body care products that call for oil, such as our homemade lip balm recipe, calendula salve or lavender salve, or this rosehip soap recipe. For instance, you could use half rosehip oil and half calendula oil to create an extra-strength healing salve!
   
   
4. If you use edible carrier oil, you can use rosehip oil as salad dressing, marinade or in other culinary creations. 
   
   
5. Apply rosehip oil to cracked heels and feet.
   
   
6. For dry hands, or as a nail and cuticle “cream”.
   
   
7. As a massage oil.
   
   
8. On dry, cracked or chapped lips or around your nose when chaffed.
   
   
9. Work a few drops through damp hair to soften hair and smooth split ends.
   
   
10. To treat cradle cap on babies (check your carrier oil safety first).
    
    
11. To soothe burns, rashes, sunburns, or scrapes. 
    
    
12. Use on dry elbows or other rough patches of skin.

Basically, you’ll want to rub it all over!

And now you know how to make rosehip oil!

I hope you enjoyed learning this new simple skill, and love using your homemade rosehip oil even more. A printable recipe is included below for easy reference. Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. Also stop back by to leave a review once you give it a try!

You may also love:

• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• How to Make Homemade Lavender Oil or Calendula Oil
• Homemade Elderberry Syrup for Immune Health & Allergy Relief
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Hemp Oil and Salve Recipe

Print

Homemade Rosehip Oil Recipe

Rosehip oil is intensely hydrating, healing, and nourishing for your skin. Come learn how to make rosehip oil at home, using either a slow cold-infusion method, on the stovetop or in a crock pot.

Keyword homemade rosehip oil, natural beauty, natural health, natural skincare, rosehip infused oil, rosehip oil

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Infusion time 14 days days

Equipment

• a glass container for infusing, such as a pint jar
• cheesecloth and/or sieve for straining
• bottles for final storage
• Optional: double boiler or crock pot (only if using the heat method instead of passive cold infusion)

Ingredients

• 1 cup dried rose hips, whole or halved (organic if possible)
• 1.75 cups carrier oil of choice. Popular options include jojoba oil, extra virgin olive oil, argan oil, grapeseed oil, and sweet almond oil. Select a high-quality, unrefined, cold-pressed, and organic oils for the most healthy and healing results. (Choose an edible oil if you intend to ingest your rosehip oil.)

Instructions

Passive "Cold Infusion" Method

• Obtain dried rose hips. It is important to start with 100% dry hips, not fresh.
• Fill a clean glass container 1 cup of dried rose hips
• Combine 1.5 to 2 cups oil for every 1 cup of rose hips used. Pour oil of choice over the dried rose hips until the container is full. (A pint glass jar with 1 cup of rose hips can usually hold about 1.75 cups of oil)
• Place a lid on the container, and store it at room temperature in a fairly cool and dark place for at least 2 weeks. Shake on occasion (optional).
• After two weeks or longer, strain the solids from the oil. If your rosehips are at all fuzzy or hairy, I suggest lining a fine-mesh strainer (sieve) with a few layers of cheesecloth to filter it well. Place the strainer over a clean container, and then pour the oil and rosehips in to strain. Compost or discard the solids.
• Store the finished rosehip oil in a cool, dry, dark location. Rosehip oil should stay good for 6 months or longer. Discontinue use if the oil gets moldy, rancid, cloudy, or develops a bad aroma. Rosehip oil can also be stored in the refrigerator to extend the shelf life up to a year or more.
• Enjoy! Use your homemade rosehip oil as a daily facial moisturizer (only a few drops needed), as a massage or body oil, on problem areas, as part of your oil cleansing method, an ingredient in other homemade skincare recipes such as salve or soap, to condition and soften hair, as salad dressing or marinade, and more.

Stovetop or Crockpot Method

• Combine 1 cup of dry rose hips per 2 cups of oil either in a double-boiler or crock pot.
• In a crock pot, use the lowest heat setting possible. In a double-boiler, bring the water in the lower pot to a low boil but then reduce down to a simmer. Maintain the temperature below 100F for the best results (high heat can denature or destroy the beneficial antioxidants and fatty acids).
• Allow the mixture to infuse over low heat for several hours, up to 8 to 12 hours for maximum extraction.
• Some herbalists recommend macerating or chopping up the rose hips prior to infusing to maximize the extraction. Another option is to press and mash the rose hips while they're heating in the oil.
• Allow to cool, and then thoroughly strain away the solids using a sieve and/or cheesecloth before bottling and using (as described in detail above).

The post How to Make Nourishing Rosehip Oil + 12 Ways to Use It appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

As a gardener, I’ve truthfully never been that keen on growing roses. Nor are wild roses very common around here. So my access to fresh rose hips was previously limited… until now! Roses grow all along the front fenceline of our new homestead, so we were thrilled to harvest and use our very first homegrown hips this season.

What are rose hips?

Rose hips are the fruit of the rose plant. Every rose blossom that is left unpicked will eventually develop a berry-like hip after the flower fades away! Rose hips are red to orange in color, round or oblong, about the size of a grape, and very, very firm. Each hip contains rose seeds inside, along with hundreds of little fuzzy hairs. 

All varieties of roses (Rosa species) produce hips, and all of them are edible and medicinal! However, shrub roses (Rosa rugosa) are rumored to produce the most delicious and abundant hips. Shrub roses can be cultivated but are often found growing in the wild too – prime for foraging. Truth be told, Rosa rugosa is considered an invasive species. It has a preference for coastal dune climates, and is now naturalized along the entire coast of New England as well as parts of the Pacific Northwest. They’re sometimes referred to as beach tomato, beach rose, or saltspray rose. 

If you’re not able to pick fresh hips of your own, you can buy organic whole dried rose hips here, or organic dried seedless (cut) ones here.

Are rose hips edible?

Yes, rose hips are edible – but with a little catch! The tiny hairs inside the hips are irritating to people’s mouths and intestines when ingested. So, the best way to prepare the hips will depend on how you intend to use them (discussed more to follow). For use in tea, most folks leave them whole to avoid the hairs completely. In addition to us humans, squirrels, birds, bears, rabbits and other wildlife enjoy dining on rose hips as well. 

What do rose hips taste like, you wonder? When ripe, rose hip flesh is floral and slightly sweet, but has a distinct tang. I’ve heard the flavor of rose hips described as a cross between tart apple and plum, with hibiscus-like notes or a hint of rose petal, and even reminiscent of raw pumpkin. 

Nutritional Value and Medicinal Benefits

Rose hips have been used in herbal tea, natural health supplements, and recipes for centuries. They’re renowned for their high levels of natural antioxidants and vitamins, including Vitamins C, E, B, F, carotenoids, flavonoids, and polyphenols. In fact, studies show that rose hips contain even more robust concentrations of antioxidants than other well-known antioxidant rich fruits, such as blueberries, black currants, hawthorn berry, chokeberry, or rowanberry. Likewise, rose hips can contain 10 to 40 times more Vitamin C than oranges!

Medicinally, rose hips can play a role in reducing inflammation, free radicals and oxidative stress. Oxidative stress has been linked to conditions such as diabetes, cancer, Parkinson’s, Alzheimer’s, cardiovascular disease, stroke, and inflammatory disorders. They also strengthen your immune system.

All these antioxidants and vitamins also work wonders for your skin! When applied topically, rose hip oil (or other rosehip products) can help to restore moisture, protect against sun damage, reduce hyperpigmentation, soothe redness and eczema, and fight acne. Rosehips contain retinoids (trans retinoic acid) which helps regulate the production of new skin cells and prevent clogged pores. Vitamin F (or linoleic acid) helps reduce inflammation, dermatitis, and psoriasis while also locking in moisture. All in all, they can make your skin radiant!

How to Harvest Rose Hips

Rose hips develop in summer to early fall, typically ripening in the fall to early winter. When ripe, the hips will darken in color, changing from lighter orange or pink into a deeper red or red-orange. Some rose varieties may even turn purple or black. The best time to harvest rose hips is after the first light frost, but before a hard freeze damages them. A kiss of frost will actually make them taste sweeter!

Harvest rose hips when they’re fully ripe but still firm. It’s okay if they’re ever-so-slighty soft to the touch (think about checking the firmness of an avocado), but avoid harvesting hips that are mushy, wrinkled, or damaged. Also avoid harvesting rose hips from plants that have been treated with pesticides or other chemicals during the growing season. 

To harvest rose hips, simply trim them off the plant with a pair of scissors or garden snips, cutting the stem just above the top of the hip. Prick-proof gloves will make the job more comfortable if you’re working in a particularly thorny rosebush.

How to Prepare Rosehips for Cooking

For edible or cooking applications (such as making rose hip jelly or syrup), you’ll want to remove the irritating seeds and hairs that are inside before consuming them. Note that some recipes allow you to leave the seeds/hairs in tact while cooking and then strain them out afterwards, so check your chosen recipe!

• Start by washing your hips, and then trim off both the blossom and stem ends. You’ll notice they’re very hard to cut, so be careful and use a sharp knife! 
• Next, cut the hips in half and scoop or scrape out the hairs and seeds. I find using the rounded tip of a butter knife works quite well. Also be sure to discard any mushy or spoiled ones at this time. 
• Finally, you could give them a final rinse under water in a colander to remove any leftover hairs. 
• Now your hips are ready to use in any recipe that calls for fresh rose hips! Or, proceed to the next steps to learn how to dry rose hips for future use – or to use in homemade rosehip-infused oil. 

How to Dry Rose Hips

Drying rose hips is an excellent way to preserve them. There are many ways to use dried rose hips, and they last for a long time in storage – well over a year! Plus, if you intend to make homemade rosehip infused oil, it’s best to dry them first since the moisture in fresh rose hips can make the oil spoil. 

Before drying rose hips, decide if you want to keep them whole, cut them in half, and/or remove the seeds and hairs first (following the instructions above). For instance, you can leave rose hips whole if you intend to use them for tea or certain infusions. Though it’s a bit of extra work, I prefer to cut them in half so the inner flesh and oils can better infuse into whatever I’m making, from tea to salve. They also dry more quickly when cut in half. Removing the seeds and hairs before drying may not be necessary for topical infusions – especially those that will be thoroughly strained before use. 

In this particular batch, I de-seeded and cleaned about half of them before drying, ideal for tea or edibles. Then I admittedly got lazy (cleaning them can be a tad tedious!) so I left the other half with the seeds and hairs intact. After drying, you can shake the dry rosehips in a jar and then sift them in a sieve (fine mesh strainer) to remove most of the remaining hairs, though I find the seeds largely stay put. 

Three different ways to dry rose hips: 

1. Air dry. In the right conditions, you may be able to passively air dry fresh rosehips. Simply spread them out (whole or cut) on a tray or fine herb-drying screen for several weeks to dry. This works best in arid warm conditions. Cool or damp conditions may cause the fruit to mold rather than dry. 
   
   
2. Oven dry. Spread the prepared hips in a single layer on a wide shallow baking pan. Bake them on the lowest heat setting possible for several hours, until they’re completely dry and brittle. 
   
   
3. Food dehydrator. This is how we like to dry rose hips. The “low and slow” drying process retains the maximum therapeutic compounds, but eliminates the risk of mold from air drying. Spread the hips out in a single layer on your dehydrator trays and dry them on a low temperature setting until fully dry. It takes about 24 hours in our favorite Excalibur dehydrator on the “raw foods” setting (about 100°F).

Store dried rose hips in a cool dark place inside an air-tight container with a lid, such as a mason jar.

Ways to Use Rose Hips

• Use them in tea (fresh or dried), on their own or mixed with other herbs. Rose hips pair exceptionally well with citrus, lemongrass, other berries, dried apples, and honey. Use a couple teaspoons or one tablespoon of rosehips per cup of water for tea. Check out my favorite stainless steel loose-leaf tea infuser (single mug), or our favorite glass loose-leaf teapot for two here.
• Add them to homemade elderberry syrup or fire cider for even more immune support!
• Make rosehip jelly, jam, or syrup.
• Learn how to make rosehip infused oil here, plus 12 ways to use it! Rosehip oil has many uses straight on its own, or as an ingredient in other body care products like homemade calendula salve, lavender salve, soap, or natural lip balm. I love to soak rose hips in argan oil and use it as facial moisturizer.
• Juice the hips, and use the juice fresh or to flavor kombucha.
• Create a medicinal honey.
• Add them to bone broth or homemade vegetable broth. The flavor is mild enough to not negatively impact the broth as long as they’re used in moderation.
• Make rose hip vinegar.
• Macerate dried rose hips with a mortar and pestle (or food processor) and add the powder to baked goods or desserts. 

And that concludes this lesson on radiant rose hips.

I hope you enjoyed learning all about rosehips today, and are excited to prepare some healing concoctions of your own! Perhaps some of you will be fortunate enough to forage for wild rose hips in your area. (Jealous!) Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Or, if I missed any of your favorite ways to use rose hips – please share! Also feel free to spread the love by sharing or pinning this article. We’re so grateful that you tuned in.

You may also love:

• How to Make Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve
• How to Make Homemade Calendula Oil (or Calendula Salve)
• Fire Cider Recipe for Immune Health
• How to Make Rosehip Infused Oil, Plus 12 Ways to Use It
• Homemade Elderberry Syrup Recipe
• Natural Lip Balm Recipe

The post Radiant Rose Hips: How to Harvest, Dry and Use Rosehips appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Supplies Needed

• A double-boiler. Or, create a makeshift double boiler by nesting a stainless steel bowl, heat-safe glass bowl, or smaller pot inside a larger pot.
• Small containers to store your final homemade lip balm. Consider options like these 1/2 ounce tins, 1 ounce tins, even smaller .15 ounce plastic tubes or cardboard chapstick tubes, tiny glass jars, or similar. 
• Optional: a glass measuring cup or similar smaller bowl/pitcher with a pour spout. 

Ingredients 

• 1 part beeswax. I recommend using beeswax pastilles since they’re the easiest to work with. See beeswax substitution notes to follow.
• 1 part cocoa butter. Cocoa butter wafers are a popular choice and also easy to work with. You could also use shea butter or mango butter. We personally love the creamy, chocolate-like notes that cocoa butter adds to our natural lip balms! 
• 2 parts high-quality edible oil. Feel free to combine a couple different oils if you’d like. If I had to choose just one, I recommend organic sweet almond oil. It’s highly moisturizing, full of nutrients, and has a very mild flavor and scent. See oil notes below for more guidance on choosing the best oil to make lip balm. 
• Optional: essential oils

I listed the ingredients in “parts” (by volume) so you can easily scale the natural lip balm recipe up or down to your liking. For example, use 1/2 cup beeswax, ½ cup cocoa butter, and 1 cup oil. That is the size batch we made for the photos show in this tutorial, and yields approximately 12 ounces of lip balm. Or for a much smaller batch, combine 1 tablespoon of beeswax and 1 tablespoon of cocoa butter with 2 tablespoons of oil.

Use the printable recipe at the end of this article to scale the “servings” up and down.

TIP: To measure by weight instead of volume, use 1 part beeswax, 1 part cocoa butter, and 4 parts oil (e.g. 60 grams beeswax, 60 grams cocoa butter, and 240 grams oil).

Flavoring natural lip balm with essential oils

Feel free to add essential oils to your homemade lip balm recipe, but use high-quality “edible” oils only. Organic is all the better! We love to use certified organic oils from Plant Therapy. Buy them directly from Plant Therapy here, or from Amazon here.

Some of the most popular essential oils to flavor natural lip balm include peppermint, spearmint, wintergreen, sweet orange, pink grapefruit, vanilla, chamomile, lavender, and jasmine. Please note that certain citrus essential oils are considered “phototoxic”, which means they can increase the risk of sunburn while in direct sun – such as lemon, lime, and bergamot. However, this is mostly a concern when very high or undiluted concentrations of citrus oil is applied directly to skin. Sweet orange is not phytotoxic.

For a fairly strong-scented lip balm, use up to 96 drops (1 light tsp) of essential oils per 1 cup of oil used maximum. Scaled down, that would be 12 drops of essential oils for every 2 Tbsp of regular oil. To make lip balm with a more mellow scent, use about half the amount.

What type of oil should I use to make homemade lip balm?

You can make lip balm with any high-quality edible oil such as sweet almond oil, olive oil, fractionated (liquid) coconut oil, sunflower oil, avocado oil, hemp seed oil, or similar. Coconut oil that is solid at room temperature can be more tricky to perfect since it’s texture varies wildly with temperature. Note that oils with distinct or strong flavors (e.g. olive, coconut) will influence the overall flavor and aroma of your homemade lip balm. 

While lip balm may be considered a “cosmetic”, I personally avoid using oils that are reserved for “cosmetic use only” (like argan oil or rosehip seed oil) since the final product is going dang near in your mouth. However, those are great choices for our calendula salve, cannabis salve, or lavender body salve recipes!

How to Make Homemade Lip Balm

1. Have all your supplies and ingredients out and ready before starting.
   
   
2. Measure and/or weigh the oil, wax, and cocoa or shea butter and add to the top portion of a double boiler. Be sure to put water in the lower portion of the double boiler; enough so the bottom of the top pan is resting in water. Measuring cocoa wafers is a bit awkward in cups, but it works! For example, we’ve found that 1/2 cup of beeswax and 1/2 cup of cocoa butter wafers both weigh about 60 grams each.
   
   
3. Heat the ingredients over medium-high heat until all of the ingredients completely melt and combine. Stir occasionally. Do not cover the pot while heating; the introduction of condensation (water) can negatively impact your lip balm.
   
   
4. Turn off and remove the pot from the heat before adding essential oils. Essential oils are very volatile by nature, and thus will quickly dissipate on high heat.
   
   
5. While it is still hot, carefully pour the liquid into your lip balm containers of choice. If you have one handy, we find it’s easiest to transfer the melted mixture from the double-boiler into a glass measuring cup first (in batches if needed) and then pour it into small lip balm containers from there. Microwave the glass measuring cup for 30 seconds first to prevent the mixture from cooling too quickly or sticking when it comes in contact with the cool glass. If the mixture starts to harden before you’re finished pouring, simply return to the heat to re-melt.
   
   
6. Once the lip balm has completely cooled and hardened, add lids or caps and labels.
   
   
7. Enjoy soft, supple, moisturized lips – and share with your friends! (The balm that is… not your lips.)

Clean Up Tip:

For the easiest clean up, immediately wipe the pan out with a paper towel. If the lip balm residue starts to harden inside, lightly heat the pan again to help it melt once again.

Homemade Lip Balm FAQ & Troubleshooting

How to make homemade lip balm without beeswax

Wax is a key component of lip balm. It helps to solidify the balm in it’s container as well as hold the balm (and moisture) on your lips over time. Beeswax is a common choice of wax used to make natural lip balm; it’s non-toxic, readily available, easy to work with, and performs exceedingly well at moisturizing and healing chapped lips. However, some folks may wish to avoid using beeswax and make 100% vegan lip balm instead. 

There are numerous types of vegan plant-based waxes – palm, coconut, carnauba, and more. Yet soy wax or candelilla wax are usually recommended as the best substitutes to make lip balm without beeswax since they offer the most similar texture and results. However, some personal experimentation and tweaking of the lip balm recipe may be required to get it exactly how you like it. 

Does homemade lip balm need preservatives?

Commercial lip balms you find in the store usually include added chemicals and preservatives. However, you do not need to add any preservatives to this natural lip balm recipe. Beeswax acts as a natural preservative, extending the shelf life of the oil, butters, and lip balm in general. Beeswax is also anti-fungal, antibacterial, and antimicrobial! Hence why beeswax food wraps are so effective and popular. Learn how to make your own beeswax wraps here – another great DIY project or gift!

How long does homemade lip balm last? Can it expire?

As a general rule of thumb, consider homemade lip balm “good” and safe to use as long as it looks, smells, and feels normal – typically for several months or up to a year. Signs that homemade lip balm has expired or gone bad include “off” odors, tastes, or visible mold on the surface of the lip balm or inside its container.

A number of factors influence the shelf life of homemade lip balm, including the ingredients used and how it is stored or applied. For instance, certain oils are more prone to going rancid more quickly than others (though beeswax does act as a natural preservative and helps to extend their shelf life). Furthermore, using a tube applicator or dipping clean fingers into a lip balm tin will help it last longer than applying lip balm from a tin with soiled fingers… I’m looking at you, kiddos! 

What if my homemade lip balm is too hard (or too soft)?

If your homemade lip balm comes out too soft, the easiest fix is to re-melt it and add a tad more wax. On the other hand, if the lip balm is too firm you can re-melt it and add more oil instead. Yet if you follow the natural lip balm recipe we provided above, this shouldn’t be an issue.

How to prevent homemade lip balm from cracking

There are a few reasons homemade lip balm may crack in its container as it dries, explained below. 

Ingredients and ratios

In my experience, getting the perfect ratio of beeswax, oil, and butter (cocoa, shea, etc) is what prevents homemade lip balm from cracking the most. In general, too much beeswax (or not enough oil) causes homemade lip balm to crack. To much wax will also result in a too-firm lip balm. Different waxes and butters have different melting points and can lead to varied results. That said, some trial and error may be required to find your desired sweet spot. For instance, we have tried to increase the amount of cocoa butter in our recipe but found that led to more cracking. 

Time and temperature

Another reason homemade lip balm may crack is if it cools and hardens too quickly, and/or when the molds or containers are too cold. We’ve only found this to be an issue on cold winter days when the house is a bit chilly inside too. To remedy this, try setting a metal cookie sheet or baking pan nearby or on the stove (but not directly over heat) while you’re heating the lip balm. Set the lip balm containers on the cookie sheet and pour them there. The metal will conduct the warmth from the stove and slow the setting process. Also cluster the lip balm containers together so they keep each other warm. 

Why is homemade lip balm grainy?

Some oils and butters are made up of a combination of several fatty acids, all of which have different melting points. Shea butter, mango butter, cocoa butter, and coconut oil are prime examples. As the fatty acids (saturated fats) in these butters melt and cool or are otherwise exposed to temperature swings, some of the fats may crystallize and cause a sandy or grainy texture in the lip balm. This can happen during production, or later during storage (e.g. keeping lip balm in a hot car). The crystallization that occurs is referred to as “blooming”, is fairly common even with commercial lip balm products, and is totally harmless! However, I understand most folks want a smooth, creamy homemade lip balm.

To avoid grainy lip balm, heat your butter to 175°F and allow it to hold at that temperature for about 20 minutes. Use a probe thermometer as needed to verify. It may be best to add your butter to the double boiler first, allow it to fully melt and heat as recommended, and then add the other lip balm ingredients to the pot. Then, the butter should be cooled as quickly as possible. The longer it is melted, the more likely it is to crystalize. Some folks even recommend moving the final product to the refrigerator to expedite cooling. However, note that this goes against the tips to prevent lip balms from cracking (to cool it slowly). You can also try using a different type of butter product in your homemade lip balm. 

We never find this to be an issue with our natural lip balm recipe. Yet if you’re experiencing grainy lip balm, hopefully these tips will help! 

And that is how to make homemade lip balm!

See? That wasn’t so hard, was it? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel confident and excited to make your own natural lip balm too. Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. Feel free to spread the love by pinning or sharing this article if you found it useful. Also, stop back by for a review once you whip up a batch of balm yourself! We sincerely appreciate you tuning in today. Best of luck with your future lip balm making adventures!

Don’t miss these related crafty articles:

• DIY Bath Salts Recipe – Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts
• How to Make Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve
• How to Make Homemade Calendula Salve for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Cannabis Salve Recipe (THC or CBD)
• 17 Wonderful Winter Garden Activities (Projects) To Do Indoors
• DIY Beeswax Wraps (Food Wraps) Tutorial
• How to Make a DIY Beeswax Fall Leaf Garland
• Homemade Rice Heating Pad (or Cold Pack) Tutorial

Print

Natural Lip Balm Recipe (How to Make Homemade Lip Balm)

Learn how to make moisturizing natural lip balm with this easy step-by-step tutorial. It's easy to make, requires only a few ingredients, and makes for a great GIY gift!

Keyword homemade lip balm, lip balm recipe, natural lip balm, organic lip balm

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 10 minutes minutes

Cooling Time 20 minutes minutes

Servings 12 ounces

Equipment

• A double-boiler, or make-shift double boiler (such as a glass pyrex bowl or stainless steel bowl perched on top of a saucepan with water below)
• Lip balm tins, tiny glass jars, chapstick tubes or other similar final storage container

Ingredients

• 1 cup oil (such as sweet almond oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, fractionated coconut oil, or other edible oil of choice)
• 1/2 cup Beeswax pastilles (vegan option: replace with the same amount of soy wax or candelilla wax)
• 1/2 cup Cocoa butter wafers (or shea butter)
• 96 drops essential oil of choice (1 light tsp) (Use 96 drops per cup of oil maximum for a fairly strong-scented lip balm, about 1 light teaspoon. Feel free to use less or none at all)

Instructions

• Have all of your required supplies ready and waiting (including final storage tins).
• Add water to the bottom pan of your double-boiler. Now add the called-for oil, beeswax, and cocoa butter to the top portion of the double-boiler.
• Heat the mixture on the stovetop over medium-love heat until everything melts, and stirring frequently.
• As soon as everything melts and is thoroughly combined, remove from heat.
• Add optional essential oils once removed from heat. They're highly volatile and prone to dissipating.
• While it is still hot, carefully pour the liquid lip balm into your chosen containers. (If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.)
• Allow them to fully cool and harden before adding lids.

Notes

*By volume, use 1 part beeswax, 1 part cocoa butter, 2 parts oil. By weight, use 1 part beeswax, 1 part cocoa butter, and 4 parts oil. 

The post Natural Lip Balm Recipe: How to Make Homemade Lip Balm appeared first on Homestead and Chill.