If you’re here because you want to make chickweed salve, chances are you’re already familiar with chickweed itself… But just in case you aren’t, let’s start with a quick background lesson.

What is Chickweed?

Chickweed (stellaria media) is a tender, edible, and nutritious annual herb. It’s often thought of as a “weed”, commonly found growing in the shade in backyards, open fields, and riparian habitats during the cool wet season. Chickweed is originally native to Europe but has been naturalized throughout the United States, Canada, and beyond. Historically, chickweed has been used by Native Americans for centuries in herbal medicine and skincare. 

Learn more about chickweed here, including foraging, cultivation, harvest, and identification tips. 

What is Chickweed Salve?

Chickweed salve is a soothing golden-green topical balm made with the chickweed plant, natural oil, and wax (usually beeswax). The first step in making chickweed salve is to soak or infuse dried chickweed in oil, which extracts the beneficial compounds from the plant material into the oil. Then, the infused oil is combined with other ingredients like beeswax to make it more firm and spreadable, creating a salve or balm. 

You can also customize your homemade chickweed salve recipe and add optional ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E oil, other skin-friendly herbs (e.g. calendula, chamomile, rosehips, or lavender), or essential oils to enhance the moisturizing and healing benefits. For example, I often like to soak half chickweed and half calendula in oil to make an extra-rejuvenating salve!

Benefits of Chickweed Salve

Chickweed possesses many therapeutic qualities that make it wonderful for natural skincare and healing! First, it’s loaded with numerous vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants including Vitamin C, beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc. Chickweed also has potent cooling, drying, analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-fungal properties. When combined with moisturizing natural oils and beeswax, this gives chickweed salve the ability to fight skin inflammation, reduce redness, itching, and more. 

What is chickweed salve used for?

Chickweed salve may help soothe irritated skin and conditions including (but not limited to):

• eczema
• rashes and hives
• insect bites
• psoriasis
• poison ivy or poison oak
• acne
• minor burns and scrapes 
• sunburn
• razor burn
• general itching, redness and swelling

I broke out in hives recently (after pruning some overgrown elderberry bushes – they’re toxic) and our chickweed-calendula Skin Calm Balm provided immediate relief. The hives were gone within 10 minutes!

Drying Chickweed

This chickweed salve recipe calls for dried chickweed. Since added moisture (water) can cause mold and spoilage, it’s important to use 100% dry herbs in infused oil and salve – especially when using the slow cold oil infusion method like we do in this recipe. Remember, oil and water don’t mix! 

Thankfully, chickweed dries very quickly. If yours isn’t yet dry, simply lay out the fresh chickweed on an herb drying screen or in a woven basket in a warm, dry, well-ventilated location for several days. Or, pop it in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting until fully crispy dry. That’s what we do!

You can also buy certified organic dried chickweed here.

Chickweed Salve Recipe

Ingredients

• Dried chickweed – enough to loosely fill an 8 oz jar (see infusion notes below).
  
• 1 cup (8 ounces) carrier oil of choice. Popular carrier oil options for skincare include sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, and coconut oil. You can use one, or mix a couple! For the maximum healing benefits, we like to use certified organic cold-pressed oils. Learn more about the pros and cons of 11 carrier oils here.
  
• OR 1 cup (8 ounces) of already-infused chickweed oil
  
• 1/4 cup (1 ounce) beeswax pastilles or pellets. Beeswax is the most common type of natural wax used to make chickweed salve. It’s readily available, easy to work with, and creates a perfectly smooth, firm but spreadable salve. Beeswax is also antimicrobial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and highly moisturizing! See vegan wax options below.
  
• Optional: 1 Tbsp organic shea butter, which is highly moisturizing and rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants.
  
• Optional: a few drops of essential oils of choice. Technically, you can safely use up to 100 drops (1 tsp) maximum per cup of carrier oil, though that will result in a very, very strongly-scented salve. I suggest using ¼ to ½ that amount, or less. Lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus are all especially soothing for skin irritation (antibacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory). We like to use certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy.

Supplies Needed

• A double-boiler or DIY double boiler (e.g. a smaller pot or glass bowl that can rest inside a slightly larger pot). To prevent overheating or denaturing the therapeutic compounds, it’s important to use a double boiler rather than heating your chickweed salve ingredients directly on the stove.
  
• Small glass jars or salve tins, for storage. We often use 2-ounce amber glass jars or larger cobalt blue 4-ounce jars for personal use or gifts, and 2-ounce salve tins for easy shipping for our shop.

Yield: This recipe makes just over a cup of finished chickweed salve, or about 8 to 10 ounces (4 or 5 two-ounce containers). Note that I made a double batch in the images shown. There is a scalable, printable recipe at the end of this article.

Vegan wax options for chickweed salve

It’s possible to make chickweed salve with plant-based waxes like soy wax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax too. However, this may take a little experimentation since they have different textures and therefore may yield different results than beeswax. Soy is an easy 1-1 replacement for beeswax, while you’ll want to use slightly less carnauba or candelilla wax than beeswax since they’re more firm and prone to cracking (e.g. 1 part wax to 6 parts oil, rather than 1:4).

How to Make Chickweed Infused Oil

Before making the salve, first create chickweed infused oil. Fill a clean jar or other container about two-thirds full of dried chickweed (lightly packed). Next, pour over your oil of choice. Use enough to fully cover and submerge the chickweed. Again, this recipe calls for 1 cup of chickweed oil, so use at least a cup of oil or more. 

Add a lid and let the chickweed infuse in the oil in a cool dark location for at least 10 days, or up to several weeks. The longer it infuses, the more potent the oil will become! Once the time is up, strain the chickweed and reserve the oil. I like to set a small cheesecloth-lined strainer on top of a new clean jar or measuring cup, and pour the chickweed oil through. Then I can gather the chickweed in the cheesecloth to squeeze out any remaining oil. See photos below.

If you’d like to use a quick heated oil infusion method and/or use fresh (wet) chickweed instead of letting it passively steep, see this guide for further direction. 

Instructions to Make Chickweed Salve

1. Before starting, get your salve tins, glass jars, or other salve storage containers of choice ready and waiting.
   
   
2. Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.
   
   
3. Add enough water to the bottom portion of your double-boiler so that the top bowl or pot is in contact and resting in the water below.
   
   
4. Next, heat the double-boiler over a medium-low heat on the stovetop uncovered (without a lid). Remember, we want to avoid excessively heating the chickweed oil more than what is necessary! Just enough to melt the beeswax.
   
   
5. Monitor and routinely stir the mixture until the beeswax (and shea butter) completely melts. Stir to thoroughly combine, and then remove from the heat immediately thereafter.
   
   
6. Wait to add optional essential oils until after removing the liquid salve from the heat. They’re very volatile and therefore will dissipate quickly when exposed to high heat. Whisk to combine.
   
   
7. While it’s still hot, carefully pour the now-liquid chickweed salve into your chosen storage containers. If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.
   
   
8. Finally, allow the chickweed salve to fully cool and harden before adding lids.
   
   
9. Now your homemade chickweed salve is ready to use to soothe and heal your skin! Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve and apply as needed. A little goes a long way!

Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it’s medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. Discard if mold appears.

And that concludes this lesson on making homemade chickweed salve.

That was pretty easy, right? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel excited and empowered to go make chickweed salve of your own. I also hope it helps your skin feel wonderful! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this to be useful, please consider leaving a star rating or sharing this post. Thank you so much for tuning in today.

Don’t miss these related posts:

• Chickweed 101: How to Identify, Harvest, Dry and Use Stellaria Media
• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Hemp Oil and Salve Recipe
• How to Make and Use Homemade Lavender Oil, Calendula Oil, or Rosehip Infused Oil

Print

How to Make Homemade Chickweed Salve

Learn how to make soothing chickweed salve with this easy step-by-step tutorial. Chickweed salve can help calm skin irritation and conditions including rashes, eczema, minor burns, insect bites, poison ivy or oak, psoriasis, razor burn, and more!

Keyword chickweed balm, chickweed oil, chickweed salve

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 10 minutes minutes

Cooling Time 20 minutes minutes

Servings 10 ounces

Equipment

• A double-boiler, or make-shift double boiler (such as a glass pyrex bowl or stainless steel bowl perched on top of a saucepan with water below)
• Glass storage jars or salve tins

Ingredients

• 1 cup Chickweed-infused oil (dried chickweed previously soaked in sweet almond oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, or other carrier oil of choice – see infusion instructions in post)
• 4 tbsp Beeswax pastilles. 4 Tbsp = approximately 1 once if you're using shaved, block, or other forms of beeswax. (vegan option: replace with the same amount of organic soy wax or slightly less candelilla wax)
• 1 tbsp Shea butter (optional)
• 20-25 drops Essential oil of choice such as lavender, peppermint, or eucalyptus – all great choices for skincare. (Feel free to scale up or down, but the maximum concentration or safe dilution ratio = up to 96 drops EO max per 1 cup oil)

Instructions

• Have your chosen salve tins or small glass storage jars ready and waiting.
• Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.
• Heat the mixture on the stovetop over medium-low heat (without a lid) and only until the beeswax melts. Stir frequently.
• As soon as everything melts and is thoroughly combined, remove from heat.
• Add essential oils once removed from heat. They're highly volatile and prone to dissipating.
• While it is still hot, carefully pour the liquid salve into your chosen containers. (If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.)
• Set the full chickweed salve containers aside (lids off) and allow them to fully cool.
• The chickweed salve will harden as it cools, and then it is ready to use. Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve, and apply to your skin as needed. A little goes a long way!
• Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it's medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. 

The post How to Make Soothing Chickweed Salve Recipe and Infused Oil  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Read along to learn how to grow chamomile. We’ll explore the various types of chamomile, its medicinal benefits, how to start from seed or seedlings, tips on how to harvest and dry chamomile, pest control, and plenty of ideas for how to use it! We love to use our homegrown chamomile to make tea, face oil, salves, and more. As a companion plant, chamomile attracts a wide variety of pollinators and beneficial insects to your garden too.

Types of Chamomile 

There are many different types of chamomile including Roman, German, Egyptian, and some lesser-known types like Yellow, Dyer’s, Moroccan, and Wild Chamomile. Within each classification, there may be several unique cultivars too! For example, some of our favorite German chamomile varieties include Zloty Lan, Bodegold, and this classic German Chamomile.

Roman, German and Egyptian chamomile are the most common and esteemed types of chamomile used for tea, natural healing remedies, and home gardens. They all offer similar soothing medicinal benefits (known to calm skin, inflammation, digestion and nerves) though they have a few notable differences too, explained below. 

What’s the difference between Roman and German chamomile?

Roman chamomile has a light, fresh, sweet apple-like aroma, while German chamomile smells more grassy, like very sweet straw. German chamomile flowers are known to have stronger, more potent aromatic essential oils than their Roman counterparts. While both are used in tea, Roman chamomile has the propensity to get bitter while German chamomile tastes herbaceous and sweet with little-to-no bitterness. 

When it comes to growing chamomile at home, it’s also important to know how the different types grow:

• Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile, also known as English chamomile) is a low-growing, sprawling perennial herb. Meaning it will continue to grow in your garden for several years, even after it dies back in the winter. Roman chamomile grows back each year via spreading rhizomes in the soil. Considered a short-lived perennial, many gardeners grow roman chamomile as an annual or for just a couple seasons before starting new plants.
  
  
• German chamomile (Matricaria Recutita) is an annual herb, so you’ll need to plant new seeds or seedlings each spring. However, German chamomile may self-seed and grow new plants on its own too! German chamomile plants grow much taller, bloom more profusely, and are less hardy than Roman chamomile.

Benefits of Chamomile

Chamomile is among the most popular and widely-used herbs in natural medicine throughout history and modern times – and for good reason! Its vast healing benefits have been confirmed by dozens of studies throughout the years. This comprehensive review explores chamomile’s ability to help treat everything from eczema and rashes to inflammation and indigestion. 

The specific flavonoids and terpenes found in chamomile flowers contribute to its medicinal powers. For instance, a natural blue oil called chamazulene is only found in chamomile, and is shown to have potent anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties. German chamomile contains more chamazulene, giving its pure essential oil that distinctive blue color.

Topical use

If you look closely, you’ll regularly find chamomile as a key ingredient in personal care products like face serums, lotions, shampoos, and more. That’s because it works absolute wonders for the skin! Chamomile is known to soothe redness, irritation, swelling, and itching associated with a variety of skin conditions, including but not limited to eczema, psoriasis, acne, allergies, minor wounds, rashes, and burns.

Internal use

Internally, chamomile exudes the same soothing anti-inflammatory benefits. Taken as tea, a tincture, or other supplement form, chamomile can calm the nervous system, reduce insomnia and anxiety, stimulate the immune system, ease inflammation and spasms in the digestive system, lessen symptoms of hay fever, and flush out toxins.

What kind of chamomile is best for tea?

Most tea connoisseurs would likely argue that German chamomile is the best type for tea: it has the highest levels of aromatic medicinal compounds and is also least likely to taste bitter. However, Roman and Egyptian chamomile are often used in tea too! All three offer the calming benefits and flavors quintessential to chamomile.

HOW TO GROW CHAMOMILE

To grow chamomile at home, you can either start from seed or pick up seedlings at your local nursery. We do a bit of both! To grow chamomile from seed, I typically like to start seeds indoors and then transplant seedlings out once the weather is warm enough. Chamomile takes awhile to germinate and the seedlings grow fairly slow, so starting indoors gives us a good head start on the growing season. However, you can directly sow chamomile seeds outdoors too!

Growing chamomile from seed

• Start chamomile seeds indoors 6 weeks before your last spring frost date. Direct-sow chamomile seeds outdoors after the last spring frost has passed, once the soil temperature reaches 55 to 60°F.
  
  
• Fill your seed-starting containers of choice with a light, fluffy, sterile seed starting mix.
  
  
• Lightly press the tiny chamomile seeds into the surface of the soil, or sprinkle a very light dusting of seedling soil over them (no more than ⅛”). Otherwise, do not bury the seeds.
  
  
• Chamomile seeds need light to germinate, so put your indoor seed starting trays under a grow light right away.
  
  
• They also sprout most readily in moderately warm soil, around 65-70°F. Depending on the temperature of your growing space, a seedling heat mat may come in handy.
  
  
• It is essential to keep the soil and seeds moist (not soggy) during germination. Cover your seedling trays with a clear humidity dome to help keep in moisture until they sprout, then remove the covers. Use a spray bottle to gently mist the top of the soil if it starts to dry out.
  
  
• Chamomile seeds germinate slowly (up to 14 days or longer), so be patient!
  
  
• To promote quick and healthy growth, thin chamomile seedlings down to just one or two plants per cell or container within a few weeks of sprouting. Crowded seedlings grow more slowly or may get stunted as they compete for water, root space, nutrients and airflow.
  
  
• See our favorite seed starting supplies here. For more details and tips on successfully starting seeds indoors, check out this step-by-step guide!

When to plant chamomile outside

Plant chamomile outside in the garden in early spring. Whether you grow chamomile from seed or buy nursery starts, wait to transplant seedlings outside until after the last spring frost has passed. If an unexpected late frost occurs, plan to protect the young tender seedlings to prevent damage – such as with a cloche or hoops and frost cover. Yet don’t wait too long! It’s important for chamomile to get established in the garden before hot weather arrives. Mature plants with deep roots are more tolerant of heat.

Chamomile growing requirements 

• Sun: Both German and Roman chamomile grow best in full sun in most regions, though Roman chamomile is more tolerant of partial shade. Both varieties will appreciate some afternoon shade in very hot climates or southern regions.
  
  
• Soil: Chamomile isn’t picky about soil quality. In fact, chamomile seems to grow best in poorer quality soil – so fertilizer shouldn’t be necessary. However, it’s important that the soil is well-draining since chamomile doesn’t like wet feet. Average potting soil, sandy soil amended with a little compost, or sandy loam soil works great. Amend clay soil with horticultural sand and/or potting soil to increase drainage.
  
  
• Water:  While chamomile plants are young, provide moderate water and maintain damp soil (not soggy) at all times. Yet as it matures, established chamomile plants become fairly drought-tolerant and prefer the soil to dry out ever-so-slightly between watering. Don’t let the soil get too dry during hot conditions though.
  
  
• Spacing and size: Space German chamomile plants about 6 to 8 inches apart, and Roman chamomile 8 to 12 inches. German chamomile grows 24 to 36 inches tall, though some varieties grow taller or shorter. German chamomile is also usually quite narrow and spindly, and often flopping over unless additional support is provided. In contrast, Roman chamomile plants grow full and dense but only a few inches tall (3 to 6 inches) and sprawl out across 12 inches or wider. 

How much chamomile to grow? 

Chamomile flowers are tiny, and even smaller once they’re dry! Therefore, it can take a good amount of dried flowers to make just one cup of tea, and significantly more to create infused oils, salves, or other homemade goodies you may have in mind. (That’s why chamomile products are often quite expensive!) 

A few chamomile plants will provide the average hobby gardener with a decent amount of chamomile to enjoy, though more plants will enable you to harvest and preserve plenty for storage, projects, and prolonged use. If you only have space for one or two chamomile plants, choose larger chamomile varieties that will provide bountiful flowers – like Zloty Lan.

Is chamomile frost hardy?

German chamomile is less hardy than Roman chamomile. Established German chamomile plants should be able to tolerate a light frost (ours do!) but likely would not survive a hard freeze. On the other hand, Roman chamomile also dies back during freezing winter conditions, but the roots and rhizomes will survive and regrow once the weather warms up again in spring. Provide mulch around the base of the plants to insulate and protect the roots from freezing conditions. Young plants of both varieties are more susceptible to frost damage than mature plants.

Chamomile pests and diseases

Chamomile is inflicted by very few pests or diseases. Instead, it attracts a number of good insects including bees, beneficial wasps, hover flies, and ladybugs! Aphids are the most common pest insect to attack chamomile, and are especially attracted to the tender new growth tips. Aphids cause damage by piercing and sucking on leaves and stems, taking away vital nutrients and moisture. Plus, you probably don’t want aphids all up in your chamomile tea!

Thankfully, aphids are fairly easy to control. First, try blasting them off with a firm stream of water from the hose (supporting the plant with your other hand). If that doesn’t work, use homemade organic soap spray to kill them on contact, and then wash it off afterwards to remove the soapy residue. I recommend doing this when the plant isn’t full of flowers you wish to harvest, such as before the plant starts blooming or right after a thorough harvest. Learn more about organic aphid control here, including our DIY soap spray recipe.

Sometimes our chamomile has some other really tiny bugs on it (smaller than aphids) but they usually “abandon ship” and leave the flowers on their own once harvested.

Growing chamomile in containers

To grow chamomile in a container, choose a pot, fabric grow bag, or other container that is at least 10 inches wide and deep. 12”x12” is ideal. Most importantly, ensure the pot has a drainage hole.  Fill the container with a well-draining potting soil or container soil. Place the pot in a sunny location. Chamomile grown in containers will likely need more frequent water than plants in the ground or raised beds, but still prefers moderately damp to slightly dry soil over constant moisture.

When and how to harvest chamomile

It’s easy to harvest chamomile: simply pluck the small daisy-like flowers off the top of their stems between your fingers. They snap right off with a fun little pop! A specialized picking rake makes harvesting chamomile a breeze, especially if you’re growing a large quantity.

Don’t be shy about harvesting chamomile. The more flowers you harvest, the more will grow! Chamomile will continue to bloom from spring through fall, and even during winter in mild frost-free climates. Though they’ve slowed down a bit, we’re still harvesting chamomile now (in February) from plants we put out last fall.

For the highest quality essential oil content and best flavor for tea, harvest chamomile flowers fairly young – soon after the flowers have fully opened, but before the centers become extra large and the petals droop backwards. Most herbalists prefer to harvest chamomile in the morning hours, before the sun and heat of the day has a chance to dissipate the delicate essential oils. 

How to dry and store chamomile after harvest

You can either dry chamomile flowers in a food dehydrator or let them passively air dry. To avoid adding unnecessary moisture and prolong drying time (or increase risk of mold), we do not wash our chamomile post-harvest.

To air dry chamomile, spread the flowers out in a single layer on a screen, in an airy basket, or on an herb drying rack in a warm, dry, arid location. Add a fan to increase air circulation if needed. If not well-spaced or if the air is too humid, the flowers may mold before they can fully dry. 

A food dehydrator is a great way to dry chamomile, especially for long-term storage or if you intend to make oil infusions, tinctures, or salves. (Using 100% dry flowers is crucial for oils or salves since any leftover moisture in the flowers can make the final product mold or spoil more easily). Yet it’s best to dry chamomile on a very low temperature setting to retain its beneficial and medicinal compounds. We set our dehydrator to 110°F or below (or use the lowest setting available) for 24 hours or longer. Warmer temperatures will make the flowers dry faster, though I don’t recommend drying chamomile in the oven. 

Once fully dry, store dried chamomile in an airtight container (e.g. glass container with a lid) in a cool, dry, dark location. There, it will retain its aroma, flavor, and beneficial properties for up to one year.

8 Ways to Use Homegrown Chamomile 

There are dozens of fun ways to use chamomile, both fresh and dried. Here are some ideas:

1. The edible flowers can be used fresh (or dried) to garnish drinks, salads, desserts, or added to ice cubes.
   
   
2. Use fresh or dried chamomile to make hot tea or sun tea! Learn how to safely make herbal sun tea with fresh herbs here. For hot tea, use about 1 tablespoon of dried chamomile per cup of hot water and allow it to steep for 5 to 8 minutes. When using fresh chamomile in tea, use two or three tablespoons per cup of water instead. I love to use this stainless steel infuser to make a single mug of tea, or this adorable loose-leaf glass teapot for tea for two.
   
   
3. Steep dry chamomile flowers in an oil of choice (e.g. olive oil, jojoba oil, or sweet almond oil) to create chamomile-infused oil. Then you can use the chamomile oil as a face, body, or massage oil. Or, as a culinary oil if you choose an edible carrier oil. Learn more about making herb-infused oils here, including carrier oil options.
   
   
4. Or, use chamomile-infused oil as an ingredient to create homemade skincare products like healing salves or balms, lip balm, body butter, soap, lotion and more.
   
   
5. Add dry chamomile flowers to sachets of potpourri or in stovetop potpourri.
   
   
6. Make a chamomile hydrosol to use as a naturally-scented room spray or linen spray.
   
   
7. Mix dried chamomile flowers in homemade bath salt blends. Check out our DIY natural bath salts recipe here!
   
   
8. For stronger internal use, create a chamomile tincture.

And that concludes this lesson on how to grow chamomile.

I hope this article provided you with everything you need to know to successfully grow chamomile at home. And, that you feel excited to do so now! Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. Also please consider pinning or sharing this article if you found it useful. Enjoy your chamomile bounty!

You may also like:

• DIY Bath Salts Recipe: Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts
• All About Calendula: How to Grow, Harvest, Dry and Use Calendula Flowers
• 11 Best Carrier Oil Options for Skin Care, Salves and Herbal Infusions
• How to Safely Make Sun Tea with Fresh or Dry Herbs
• 10 Best Vegetarian and Vegan Supplements for Improved Health

The post Calming Chamomile: How to Grow, Harvest, Dry and Use Chamomile appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Common chickweed is popular among foragers, homesteaders, herbalists, and native communities alike. It is especially useful for natural skincare, known to soothe rashes, itching and irritation. Growing wild at our new property, we love to use it to make healing topical salve! (See the salve tutorial here)

What is chickweed?

Common chickweed (Stellaria media) is a tender, edible, annual herb that grows during cool wet seasons. Originally native to Europe, chickweed has been naturalized and now grows throughout much of the United States, Canada, and beyond. It has been used throughout history in herbal medicine and skincare. Its tiny flowers offer nectar to elfin butterflies and other beneficial insects. 

Other common names include birdweed, chickenwort, starwort and winterweed. Note that there are several related varieties of chickweed in the Stellaria genus. With “weed” in its name, it is often misunderstood or even demonized. If you Google the term chickweed, most of the results are about how to control or kill it – rather than make good use of it!

“The only difference between a flower and a weed is a judgment.” 

Wayne Dyer

Medicinal Use and Benefits of Chickweed

Chickweed offers numerous therapeutic benefits and nutrients. Historically, it has been used by Native Americans, herbalists, and other natural medicine practitioners to treat digestive issues, blood disorders, and respiratory ailments such as colds, coughs and sore throats. It is also used as an herbal remedy for wounds and skin health.

Chickweed is cooling, drying, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal. This makes it excellent at soothing irritated skin including rashes, minor burns, eczema, psoriasis, sunburn, razor burn, insect bites, poison oak/ivy, or general itching and inflammation. Topically, chickweed can be used directly on the skin as a poultice, infused in oil, or in a salve or balm. 

When used internally (e.g. via tincture, tea, or direct consumption), the saponins and natural lechinins found in chickweed can help to alleviate inflammation, reduce mucus and congestion, and improve metabolism and digestion. In large amounts, chickweed can act as a mild laxative, diuretic, and detoxifier. 

Chickweed also contains numerous vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, including beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc. It offers especially high levels of Vitamin C, making it an important source of nutrients to prevent scurvy for early sailors and miners, much like wild Miner’s Lettuce! 

Chickweed Identification and Characteristics

What does chickweed look like? How to identify chickweed

Common chickweed has long slender stems, dainty succulent ovate (pointed) leaves, and tiny white flowers. The flowers have 5 small petals, but they’re deeply lobed so it looks like 10 petals. Each plant sends out several long stems from a central cluster, forming a sparse or lanky rosette-shaped mound that grows 6 to 12 inches tall. 

There are 3 keys to properly identify chickweed and distinguish it from any lookalikes:

1. Chickweed has a single strip of hairs along one side of the stem (rather than hairs all over) – much like a mohawk. The location of the hair strip rotates between nodes or joints on the stem.
2. The succulent-but-tender stems have a stretchy central core or “bone” inside. If you gently pull a stem apart, you should be able to see the elastic inner fibers between the outer stem you just split. 
3. When snapped or crushed, chickweed does not emit a white milky sap. If if has white sap, you have the wrong plant!

What parts of chickweed are edible or medicinal?

Chickweed stems, leaves, and flowers are all edible and medicinal. I have not come across anything that says its roots are necessarily “bad” or toxic, though they’re typically not used or consumed. Keep in mind that consuming too much at once can cause an upset stomach for some people. 

What does chickweed taste like?

Chickweed tastes fresh, mild, grassy, and slightly sweet or floral. Some folks say the succulent leaves remind them of lettuce. Raw chickweed is often compared to the flavor of corn silks, while it’s likened to the flavor of spinach once cooked. 

How does chickweed spread? 

Chickweed is an annual plant that easily spreads by seed, popping back up year after year if allowed to grow unchecked. It can also grow new root shoots from the stems. Thus, it has become a common “weed” in lawns, parks, farms, and gardens. If you plan to grow chickweed at home, make sure it’s in a spot you don’t mind if it returns!

How to control chickweed organically

Hand-weeding is one organic way to control chickweed, and is most effective if done early when the plants are small (before going to seed). The whole plant and root should be pulled up and disposed of. Plant debris left sitting on the ground may re-root and reestablish itself.  

Thick mulch (e.g. several inches of wood chips, bark, or a layer of cardboard) will also suppress its growth. Finally, white vinegar can also be used as a natural herbicide to kill chickweed. The stronger the acetic acid content, the more effective the vinegar will be.

Foraging and Harvesting Chickweed

When and where does chickweed grow?

Common chickweed can be found growing throughout most of North America, Asia, Europe, and other parts of the world. Chickweed grows during the cool season in damp soil following rain, often in shade or partial shade under trees or along creek beds. It thrives when temperatures are between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Chickweed grows in the springtime in most places, though it can also grow during the fall. It fades and dies back in the heat of summer, but will grow right through winter in many damp frost-free climates – including foggy coastal areas.

When foraging in the wild, avoid harvesting from locations that are potentially contaminated – such as directly along roadsides, or adjacent to a commercial farm or golf course. It’s best to forage in natural areas away from frequent human activity, and rinse it well before consuming!

How to plant and grow chickweed at home

If it doesn’t naturally grow in your area to forage, you can plant chickweed in your garden. It grows easily from seed, and seed is readily available online. Seed can be directly sown or scattered outdoors or started inside and transplanted out as seedlings. 

Though you could plant it in a garden bed, I suggest growing chickweed in an underutilized shady area of the yard instead. Be sure to read the notes on spread and control below, because it is very likely to come back!

When and how to harvest chickweed

Harvesting chickweed is easy and straightforward. Harvest chickweed in springtime (or whenever it is growing in your area) when it is fresh and supple, before it starts to die back. For the best results, harvest chickweed in the morning or other cool time of day as it quickly wilts in the sun and after harvest. 

To harvest chickweed, simply grab a handful and cut several inches of the tender tops with scissors or small garden shears. You could also harvest the entire plant, though then it wouldn’t re-grow for future harvests. Chickweed doesn’t hold up long in the refrigerator, so plan to use it within a couple days or dry it right away.

How to Dry Chickweed

Drying chickweed is the best way to preserve it, and prepare it to make infused oil, balm or salve. You can dry chickweed either in a food dehydrator or passively air dry it. 

Using a food dehydrator ensures it will quickly and thoroughly dry, reducing risk of mold or spoilage in storage. In a dehydrator, evenly spread the plant material out on the dehydrator trays so air can circulate around it. Use a low temperature setting (95-105F) to retain its beneficial compounds and nutrients. 

To air dry chickweed, place it in a woven basket, on a screen, hung in a bunch, or on a specialized herb drying rack in a warm, dry location with good airflow. Place a fan nearby if needed to expedite drying. Let it sit until it’s completely dry, brittle and easily crumbles. Once dry, store it in an airtight container in a cool, dark location.

Ways to Use Chickweed

Combined with a carrier oil of choice, dried chickweed can be used to make a rich and soothing infused oil. The oil can then be used on its own (e.g. as massage or body oil) or as an ingredient to make homemade chickweed salve, balm, lip balm, and more. These topical creations are ideal to have on hand when rashes, burns, or other skin irritations arise. Learn more about making herb-infused oils here, including carrier oil options. Then pop over to this tutorial for our easy chickweed salve recipe.

Raw or dried chickweed can also be used to make tea or a concentrated herbal tincture. Dried and ground, it’s also used to make capsule supplements. Check with your doctor or naturopath for guidance on internal use.

Chickweed can be eaten raw or cooked, though its tender texture makes it most palatable when raw – such as added to salads, or even blended in a smoothie. Since it tends to be stringy, it’s usually chopped up before it’s eaten. Chickweed is great with scrambled eggs, raw or lightly sautéed. You can also toss a handful into soup or stew, but do so in the last few minutes to prevent overcooking.

Chickweed for Chickens

Birds also like to eat chickweed – including chickens! It’s is a great, nutrient-rich treat or forage fodder for backyard chicken flocks. While foraging, chickens should rip the chickweed into smaller pieces on their own (as they bite at it). However, I suggest chopping up any chickweed you harvest yourself before tossing it to the chickens. Otherwise, long stringy pieces of plant material may increase the risk of impacted crop.

Pretty neat little “weed”, isn’t it?

That sums up today’s lesson on common chickweed. I will be back soon with a follow-up post on how to use it to make infused oil, salve or balm! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and pin or share this post if you found it useful. Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy foraging!

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The post Chickweed: How to Identify, Harvest, Dry and Use Stellaria Media appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

This guide will cover everything you need to know to make beautiful homemade bath salts using natural ingredients like epsom salt, sea salt, herbs, flowers, and organic essential oils. We’ll explore the best types of salt to use, the benefits they offer, and optional additions like colloidal oat powder. I’ll also cover frequently asked questions about bath salts – including usage, storage, tips for easy clean up, septic system concerns, and more.

Whether they’re for self-care or to share as special gifts, homemade bath salts are fun and easy to make. I’ll share our usual DIY bath salt recipe, but the process is very flexible. Feel free to get creative with your own blends! 

Why and how bath salt soaks work

Bath salts are usually made of epsom salts and sometimes other types of salt too, such as sea salt. When added to warm water, bath salts dissolve and release beneficial minerals (magnesium sulfate in the case of epsom salt) into your bath water. 

In theory, bath salt minerals absorb into your skin and help relax muscles, soothe skin irritation, and reduce inflammation as you soak. Warm bath salt soaks can also help improve circulation and stimulate detoxification in your body. Studies are still lacking on the exact benefits of bath salts, but soaking in warm salty water is incredibly relaxing and relieves stress nonetheless!  

Beyond minerals, bath salts may offer additional benefits depending on the ingredients in them – such as the medicinal powers of herbs, skin healing benefits of colloidal oatmeal, or soothing aromatherapy of essential oils.

What type of salt is best to make DIY bath salts?

You can make bath salts with only one type of salt (e.g. epsom salts alone), or combine several in your DIY bath salt recipe to reap the benefits of each one – plus add visual interest! Here are some of the most popular options:

• Epsom salt is the most common type of salt to use in bath salts, and potentially the most therapeutic too. However, epsom salt is technically not a real “salt” at all! Rather, epsom salt is a naturally occurring mineral compound made of magnesium and sulfate. Epsom salt soaks are used to promote quick healing and pain relief from a range of issues such as sprains, bruises, ingrown nails, stiff joints and muscles, or fibromyalgia. It’s also used to relieve constipation when taken internally.

• Sea Salts*. Sea salts are derived from seawater and are mostly composed of sodium chloride. Since they’re not refined or only minimally processed, sea salts retain numerous valuable minerals including magnesium, potassium, calcium, phosphorus, bromine, boron, zinc, iron, manganese, copper and silicon. Like epsom salts, sea salt baths can ease tension and stiffness while stimulating circulation and detoxification.

• Pink Himalayan Salt. As opposed to the sea, pink salt is a rock salt found high in the Himalayan mountains of South Asia. Though it’s about 98% sodium chloride, pink Himalayan salt also contains up to 84 other trace minerals and elements! It’s also really pretty, ideal for adding a pop of color and interest to your DIY bath salt recipe. 

• Cooking salts. You can also use common cooking salts in homemade bath salts, such as kosher salt, pickling salt or coarse rock salt. These salts are economical, readily available, and contain some trace minerals too. However, AVOID using iodized table salt to make bath salts. Lacking minerals, highly processed table salt doesn’t offer many health benefits. Instead, it adds trace amounts of unwanted iodine to your bath water. 

*Note: Depending on the origin, there are a number of unique sea salts to choose from, such as grey sea salt, Celtic sea salt, Dead Sea salt, and more. Each may offer slightly unique properties (e.g. Dead Sea salt is especially magnesium-rich) but in general, sea salts offer similar benefits in the bath. 

Fine, medium or coarse grind salts for bath salts

Salts come in various grain sizes or “grinds”: coarse, medium, fine, and extra fine. Finer grain salts dissolve fast and easy in your bath, while coarser salts take just a tad longer to dissolve. Yet coarse salts have more surface area and therefore absorb essential oils better, and look pretty cool to boot! All that considered, I generally like to make DIY bath salts with a mix of medium and coarse grind salts. 

Ingredients for Natural DIY Bath Salts 

Homemade bath salts can be as simple or complex as you wish to make them! At minimum, all you really need is salt to create a soothing soak. Yet if you’ve landed on this article, I imagine you’re looking for ideas to spice things up and create more interesting, fragrant, or healing homemade bath salt blends. 

Below is a list of ingredients that we use in our DIY bath salt recipe, though you can easily adjust or omit things as you see fit. I always try to source high-quality organic ingredients… especially for something I’ll be soaking my bits and parts in! This recipe makes about 5 cups of finished bath salts. Scale up or down as needed.

• 4 cups of salt total, such as epsom salt, sea salt, and/or pink Himalayan salt. I often use three kinds (e.g. 2 cups of epsom salt, 1 cup grey sea salt, and 1 cup pink).
  
  
• ½ cup to 1 cup dried herbs or flowers, such as dried rose petals, lavender, calendula, chamomile, rosemary, mint leaves, lemon verbena, or even dried citrus – just to name a few! Again, I like to mix in a couple different things. To prevent mold, it’s important to use 100% dry herbs or flowers for bath salt blends you intend to store for later use. We use a lot of homegrown herbs, though we also source organic herbs from Starwest Botanicals.
  
  
• ½ cup colloidal oat powder. Colloidal oatmeal is phenomenal for your skin! It’s proven to soothe irritation and itching, add softness, and lock in moisture – therefore alleviating skin conditions such as dermatitis, rashes, psoriasis, eczema and more. I also find it helps make bath salts less oily. I make my own colloidal oatmeal by grinding organic oats into a super fine powder in our Vitamix blender, but here is a great organic colloidal oat powder from a small black-owned business!
  
  
• 2 Tbsp Vitamin E oil. Vitamin E oil is a powerful antioxidant with moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties that improve skin health. Though they’re not quite as potent, feel free to substitute with olive oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, or your other favorite carrier oil of choice.
  
  
• ½ teaspoon (50 drops) up to 1 teaspoon (100 drops) of essential oils total (e.g. 30 drops lavender and 20 drops eucalyptus, one of my favorite combos). Sliding scale based on how strongly-scented you want your DIY bath salts. If you’re unsure, start with less – you can always add more later! I recommend using just one or two scents. See more information on essential oil options below.

The best essential oils for bath salts

Though not required, plant-based essential oils really enhance natural DIY bath salts and your overall bath experience! Certain scents are very effective at calming nerves or elevating your mood. It’s called aroma-therapy, after all! Beyond the benefits of aromatherapy, various herbs and essential oils offer unique healing properties. For example, lavender has antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties, and is known to ease anxiety and calm the mind. Similarly, eucalyptus and rosemary are antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and offer a very uplifting scent.

The most popular essential oils for DIY bath salts include: lavender, sweet orange, roman chamomile, tea tree, eucalyptus, bergamot, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, jasmine, rose, lemongrass, clary sage, frankincense, ylang ylang, vanilla, and rosemary. Use one scent alone, or try mixing two or three. 

Tip: Balance sweet, woody, or floral scents with a more bright, herbaceous or citrusy scent, such as lavender + eucalyptus or rosemary, chamomile + lemongrass, sandalwood or cedarwood + bergamot, or jasmine + sweet orange. Again, I recommend starting with just one, two, or maayyybe three scents combined.

Avoid using “hot” or potentially irritating essential oils like peppermint, wintergreen, cinnamon, clove, oregano, cassia, and thyme in the bath. 

What about baking soda?

Unlike some DIY bath salt recipes, I do not recommend adding baking soda to your bath salt blend unless you plan to use it immediately, or unless you’re using epsom salts only (no sea salt). The combination of baking soda and salt reacts to create carbon dioxide gas which will expand in packaging, and can even break glass jars in extreme circumstances! So, if you do want to include baking soda (which is great for softening skin) then simply add up to a half cup directly to your bathwater as it fills. 

Now, on to the easiest part… aside from soaking that is!

Instructions to Make DIY Bath Salts

1. First, add salts and colloidal oatmeal to a mixing bowl. Stir well to combine.
2. Next, drizzle over the vitamin E oil (or other oil) and then the dry herbs or flowers. Mix again.
3. Add your chosen essential oils and stir until everything is evenly combined.
4. Finally, package your homemade bath salts into aitight storage containers of choice, and enjoy your soak! Keep reading for tips on storing and using bath salts.

How to store bath salts

Store homemade bath salts in an airtight container. Sealable bags, a glass container with swing-top lid and gasket, or mason jars with tight-fitting lids work great. Store in a cool, dark, dry location. A good storage container should prevent moisture intrusion and clumping as well as keep in the aroma of the essential oils, helping your bath salts stay nice and fresh.

If you’re going to share your homemade bath salts with others, be sure to add a label that lists all of the ingredients! This way, the recipient can know what to expect and be aware of any potential allergens.

How much bath salts to add to the bathtub

Add anywhere from ¼ cup up to 2 cups of bath salts to a standard size bathtub. Unless I need intense relief, I tend to lean more on the light side since the ingredients we use are high quality (read: not exactly cheap). If I want a little extra oomph, I toss in an extra half cup of plain epsom salt in addition to my “special” DIY bath salts. 

Do not put bath salts in whirlpool tubs, hot tubs, or other tubs with jets unless the manufacturer specifies that’s okay.

How to add bath salts to your bath

There’s really no “wrong” way to add bath salts to a bath! However, if you’re using homemade bath salts made with essential oils and hope to bask in the aroma, I suggest waiting to add the bath salts until the tub is nearly full of warm water. Then stir the water around with your hand to help them dissolve. 

Essential oils are volatile (meaning they evaporate easily, especially when heated) so their aroma tends to dissipate more quickly than synthetic fragrances. If added to the bath too early, the smell can be quite faint by the time you’re ready to climb in! Close the bathroom door to keep the lovely scented steam in too.

How to make bath salts less messy

Some folks like to add bath salts directly to the bathwater. Soaking while rose petals swirl around you can certainly feel luxurious! On the other hand, some people may not like the feeling of floaties touching them as they soak. Or, want to deal with the clean up. For a mess-free, floaty-free bath salt experience, simply put your bath salts in a “tea bag” to steep! 

Add bath salts to a small reusable cotton drawstring bag, or fashion a steeping satchel out of organic cheesecloth and a hair tie or string. Hang or hold the teabag in the water near the downspout as the tub finishes filling. The salt will still dissolve and seep into the water, while the bag contains the herb and flower floaties. As an added bonus, the herbal tea bag doubles as an exfoliating wash cloth!

If you don’t steep your bath within a tea bag and they contain large flower or herb bits, you may want to use a mesh drain strainer to catch debris as the tub drains at the end of your bath.

How long to soak in bath salts (and how often)

To reap the maximum benefits from your bath salt experience, allow yourself to soak for 20 to 30 minutes. You can use bath salt soaks up to three times per week in times of need. 

It’s difficult to “overdo it” when it comes to bath salts, though too much could lead to dry skin in some sensitive individuals. Frequent bath salt soaks could also change vaginal pH levels, making a more hospitable environment for yeast infections or irritation. 

Should I rinse off after a bath salt soak?

That’s up to you! A strong bath salt soak (using 1 to 2 cups of bath salts) could potentially leave skin feeling dry later, depending on the other ingredients in your bath salt recipe. You may also want to rinse off if your bath had herbs and flowers floating around that are now stuck to your skin. Since I usually steep my herbal bath salts in a tea bag (and my tub is separate from my shower) I personally don’t feel the need to rinse off afterwards. 

Can bath salts expire?

Salts themselves (epsom salt and sea salt) do not expire. Similarly, homemade bath salts will not “go bad” but they’ll be the best quality if used within a year or two. The other ingredients added to DIY bath salts such as oils, colloidal oatmeal, or dried herbs may have a “best by” date or degrade in quality over time. 

Are bath salts bad for septic systems?

No, bath salts should not harm your septic system. (For the record, I used to permit septic systems for the county!) In general, highly salty water isn’t great for septic systems. For instance, most septic experts advise against discharging water softener backwash (brine) into septic tanks. However, the water from an occasional bath salt soak has a very dilute salt concentration in comparison. 

Plus, epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) aren’t actually a true “salt”, remember?  Epsom salts are completely harmless to septic systems. In fact, some septic professionals actually suggest adding epsom salt to septic systems. They claim that they help the system run more efficiently and encourage healthier plant growth in the drainage field. So, fear not!

If you plan to use bath salts routinely (e.g. once a week or more) and have a septic tank, use a 2:1 epsom salt to sea salt ratio. Or, use just epsom salts alone to make homemade bath salts.

Are bath salt soaks safe during pregnancy?

If you’re pregnant, talk with your doctor before using bath salts. While warm (not hot) baths are generally safe during pregnancy, it’s unclear if adding bath salts is recommended. Many sources say that natural bath salts made with epsom salts are okay to use while pregnant, and can provide much-needed relief from the discomforts that go hand-in-hand with pregnancy. Yet it’s suggested to exercise caution with essential oils while pregnant, and avoid them entirely during the first trimester. It’s also important to avoid bath salts that contain artificial fragrances, phthalates, or other chemicals.

And that’s how to make your own beautiful, natural DIY bath salts!

I hope you found this tutorial to be both insightful and inspiring. As you can see, making homemade bath salts is quite easy to do, flexible, and perfect for self-care and thoughtful gifts alike. Have fun getting creative and making your own! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments. Also please consider leaving a rating or review below. Happy soaking!

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DIY Bath Salts Recipe ~ Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts

Learn how to make beautiful homemade bath salts using natural ingredients like epsom salt, sea salt, herbs, flowers, and organic essential oils. Perfect for self-care or a thoughtful DIY gift to share, bath salt soaks help alleviate stress, tension, sore muscles, inflammation, and more.

Ingredients

• 4 cups salts of choice, such as epsom salt, sea salt, and/or pink Himalayan salt. I often use three kinds (e.g. 2 cups of epsom salt, 1 cup grey sea salt, and 1 cup pink).
• 1/2 to 1 cup dried herbs or flowers, such as dried rose petals, lavender, calendula flowers, chamomile, rosemary, mint leaves, lemon verbena, or even dried citrus – just to name a few! (do not use fresh herbs or flowers as they may mold in storage)
• 1/2 cup colloidal oat powder
• 2 Tbsp Vitamin E oil (sub with olive oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, or other carrier oil of choice)
• 1/2 tsp (50 drops) up to 1 teaspoon (100 drops) of essential oils of choice – such as 30 drops lavender and 20 drops eucalyptus. Sliding scale based on how strong you want the scent. I recommend using just one or two scents.

Instructions

• First, add salts and colloidal oatmeal to a mixing bowl. Stir well to combine.
• Next, drizzle over the vitamin E oil (or other oil) and then the dry herbs or flowers. Mix again.
• Add your chosen essential oils and stir until everything is evenly combined.
• Finally, package your homemade bath salts into air tight storage containers of choice.
• Add 1/4 cup up to 2 cups of bath salts to warm water once the bathtub is nearly full and stir in to dissolve OR for a floaty-free soak, put the bath salts in a small reusable cotton "tea bag" or cheesecloth and steep them that way.

The post DIY Bath Salts Recipe: Beautiful Natural Herbal Bath Salts appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

There are two ways to make herb infused oils: using a quick heat method, or a slow cold infusion. Slow infusions are usually considered superior (most therapeutic) since they don’t expose the herbs or oil to heat – which can destroy or degrade the benefits of both. We’ll explore both methods today.

What is an herb oil infusion?

As the name implies, herb infused oils are created by steeping herbs in oil, such as olive oil, coconut oil, or sweet almond oil. As they infuse, beneficial compounds, fatty acids, and natural essential oils are drawn out of the herbs and into the surrounding oil. Later, the plant material is strained – leaving behind a medicinal herb oil. You can use any combination of herbs and carrier oils of choice (explored more to follow). I recommend using dry herbs for the best results.

Depending on the type of oil and herbs used, some herbal oils can be used in edible culinary creations – such as a salad dressing or marinade. Topically, herb infused oils can be used directly on skin or as a key ingredient to make salves, lip balm, soap, and other natural body care products. See a full list of ways to use your homemade herb infused oil at the end of this post!

What types of herbs to use for oil infusions?

Though we’re calling them “herbal oils” today, you can infuse all sorts of things in oil including flowers, berries, leaves, roots, stems, spices or fruit. For instance, we love making homemade rosehip infused oil – which is technically a fruit.

Use what suits your needs, and what you have available to you! For instance, calendula-infused oil can work wonders for skin conditions like rashes, dermatitis, or eczema, while comfrey is traditionally used for healing wounds. We usually rely on homegrown herbs, but occasionally buy organic dry herbs for infusions too. Starwest Botanicals offers a great selection of high-quality, ethically-sourced bulk herbs, flowers, spices and more.

Before you start, it’s important to become familiar with the properties, benefits, and possible side effects of the herbs you’re using – so do your research! I highly recommend Rosemary Gladstar’s book: A Beginner’s Guide to Medicinal Herbs, or her Herbal Recipes book.

Herbs commonly used in herb oil infusions:

• Basil
• Calendula
• Chamomile
• Chickweed
• Citrus peels
• Comfrey
• Dandelion 
• Echinacea
• Elderberry/elderflower
• Hibiscus flowers
• Lavender
• Lemon Balm
• Lemon Verbena
• Nettles
• Marshmallow Root
• Mint 
• Pine 
• Plantain leaves
• Red clover
• Red raspberry leaf
• Rose hips
• Rose petals
• Rosemary
• Sage
• St. John’s wort
• Thyme
• Yarrow
• Violet

Carrier oil options to make medicinal infusions

There are dozens of different carrier oil options to choose from. I often use more than one type of oil in the same herbal infusion to reap the benefits and balance of both!

Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, and argan oil are popular to make natural skin and body care products (and some of my personal favorites). Those oils are all highly healing and moisturizing in their own right, and even more so once infused with medicinal herbs! Edible oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, or hemp seed oil are great choices to make herb infused oils intended for culinary use. 

Pop over to this article to learn more: 11 Best Carrier Oils for Skin Care, Salves and Infusions. It explores the pros, potential cons, comedogenic ratings, extraction methods, and other characteristics of 11 popular carrier oil options so you can pick the best oil for your skin type and needs. I personally prefer to use certified organic cold-pressed oils.

Using fresh vs dry herbs for oil infusions

It’s best to use dry herbs to create the most foolproof, safe, and long-lasting herbal oil infusions in most cases. Why? The high moisture content (water) found in fresh herbs can cause the oil to spoil and grow mold. Oil and water don’t mix, you know… Though some herbalists take their chances with fresh herbs, I’d rather play it safe than sorry. After all the time and effort of growing, harvesting, and infusing your herbs, moldy oil would be devastating! 

Since dry herbs are more highly concentrated (and more can fit inside a container), using dry herbs can also yield a more potent infusion. 

It’s okay to use fresh herbs in an infusion that you’ll use up fairly quickly, such as a small batch of basil or rosemary infused olive oil that you plan to use within a few weeks. It’s also less risky to use fresh herbs when using the quick heat method to make herb-infused oil, since some of the moisture can evaporate off while heating. However, I still recommend allowing the herbs to air dry for a day or two – or at least wilt and partially dry first.

How to dry herbs

You can dry herbs in a food dehydrator, hang them up to dry, or spread them on a screened herb-drying rack. Allow them to dry until they’re completely brittle and crisp, where no evident moisture or suppleness remains.

To air-dry herbs, it’s important to do so in a warm, dry location with good airflow. Using a fan nearby will help. Note that it may not be possible to air dry herbs in all climates or conditions. If it’s too cool or humid, the herbs may mold before they’re completely dry.

When using a food dehydrator, set it to the lowest temperature possible so the herbs retain their maximum beneficial properties. We almost exclusively dry herbs and flowers in our Excalibur food dehydrator. I love the large capacity, even and efficient drying, and precise temperature controls – including the “living foods setting” we use for medicinal herbs.

Should I wash herbs before drying them?

It depends. Some gardeners and herbalists avoid washing herbs before drying because the added moisture may prevent them from drying properly and potentially lead to mold. This is especially a concern when air-drying herbs, but shouldn’t be an issue when using a food dehydrator. If herbs are particularly dirty, the extra step of washing them may be preferred. Shake them out well (or even toss them in a salad spinner) to remove excess water after washing. I personally only wash herbs that I plan to use in cooking. 

How to an Make Herbal Oil Infusion

Supplies needed

• Herbs. Dried herbs are best for a slow cold infusion. Fresh herbs, wilted herbs, or dry herbs can be used with the quick heat method. 
• A carrier oil of choice, such as jojoba oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, or other.
• A glass container with a tight-fitting lid. Use something as small as a half-pint mason jar, or as large as a half-gallon jar! The size simply depends on how much herb infused oil you intend to make.
• Fine-mesh colander, reusable nut milk bag and/or cheesecloth for straining. 
• Storage containers for finished oil, such as glass jars or amber dropper bottles.
• Optional: a slow-cooker or double boiler and probe thermometer (only if you intend to use the quick heat method)

Option 1: Slow Cold Infusion 

The first option is the easiest, but does require a little patience: simply allow dry herbs to soak in oil at room temperature for several weeks. Known as slow or cold infusion, this method relies on a passive process to gently extract beneficial compounds from the herbs. Since it’s not exposed to heat, the maximum therapeutic properties of both the oil and herbs are retained. The herbs should soak in oil for a minimum of 2 or 3 weeks, up to 4 to 6 weeks for the most medicinal oil possible. 

Directions

1. Start by filling a clean glass container at least two-thirds full with dry herbs. Feel free to fill the container even more to create a stronger infusion. Yes, you can mix several different types of herbs together if you’d like!
   
   
2. Pour oil over the dry herbs until they’re completely covered by at least an inch or two of oil (though they may float, that’s okay). If you wish to get more technical and measure, aim for an herb to oil ratio of about 1 part dry plant material by weight to 5 parts oil by volume. For example, 1 ounce of herbs to 5 fluid ounces of oil.
   
   
3. Add a lid and set the jar in a dark place to infuse for several weeks. Some herbalists like to use the “solar infusion” method, steeping the herbs and oil in a sunny window to garner luminary warmth and energy. Yet others say that sunlight can reduce the potency of herbs or make oil go rancid more quickly. So, it’s a bit of a controversial topic! We’ve done both methods and never had oil spoil on us.
   
   
4. Though not necessary, you can give the jar of oil a gentle shake or tilt from time to time. This is especially helpful during the first few days to rotate/submerge any “floaters” on top.
   
   
5. Occasionally, condensation may develop near the top portion of the jar. If you notice this, simply open the jar and wipe it away with a clean paper towel.
   

6. When the time is up, strain the herbs from the oil. I place a nut milk bag or layer of cheesecloth inside of a fine colander perched on top of a bowl, and then pour the oil through both. After it sits to drain a bit, I wring out any leftover oil from the herbs by squeezing the nut milk bag or cloth. Compost the leftover herbs.
   
   
7. Transfer the finished herb infused oil into a clean storage container with a lid, and store it in a cool dark place. I like to use amber dropper bottles for face and body oil, storing the excess in a larger jar in the fridge for refills. The dark glass protects the medicinal herb oil from light degradation, so I can safely keep it out on my bathroom counter too. (See shelf life information below.)
   

8. Now go enjoy your creation! I’ve included a list of ways to use medicinal herb oils at the end of this post. 

Option 2: Quick Heat Method

The quick heat method is a simple, fast way to create herb infused oils without waiting for them to passively steep. Though we’ll be lightly heating the herbs and oil, it’s important to keep everything at 110°F or below to avoid degrading the quality of the oil and herbs. It’s okay to use fresh, wilted, or dry herbs with this method.

Directions

1. Start by chopping up the herbs you wish to infuse. Smaller pieces = more surface area = stronger infusion.
   
   
2. Add the herbs to a slow cooker (crock pot) or the top portion of a double boiler on the stove. If you don’t have a double boiler, create your own by nesting a glass bowl or smaller pot inside of a larger pot of water below. The top/inner pot should touch the water, but not rest all the way on the bottom of the lower pot.
   
   
3. Pour over enough oil to submerge and cover the herbs by at least an inch or two. It isn’t necessary to measure, but you can if you wish. For fresh herbs, aim for an herb-to-oil ratio of 1 part fresh herbs by weight to 3 parts oil by volume (e.g. 1 ounce fresh herbs to 3 fluid ounces oil). For dry herbs, use 1 part dry plant material to to 5 parts oil by volume (e.g. 1 ounce dried herbs to 5 fluid ounces oil). For wilted herbs, use a ratio of 1:4.
   
   
4. Gently heat the oil, but do not boil it. Between 95 and 110°F is ideal. Check the temperature with a probe thermometer and adjust the heat if needed. In a crockpot, use the lowest temperature or “keep warm” setting.
   
   
5. Allow the oil and herbs to simmer together for at least 30 minutes, up to several hours for a more potent infusion. (Some medicinal herb oil recipes call for 12 to 24 hours in a slow cooker). Important: To prevent spoilage, leave the lid off so moisture from the fresh herbs can evaporate and escape. The more fresh the herbs, the longer I suggest lightly heating to ensure water content is reduced.
   
   
6. Finally, strain and store the oil as explained in the “slow infusion method” section above.

How long does herb infused oil last?

The shelf life of herbal oils varies depending on the type of carrier oil used, if the herbs were adequately dried before steeping, and how the oil is stored. Most herb infused oils should stay good for about a year when made with dry herbs and stored sealed in a cool, dark place.

Some oils have a naturally shorter shelf life than others (such as grape seed and sweet almond oil), while jojoba oil can stay good for 5 years or more! Furthermore, refrigeration may be recommended for some oils. Refer to the oil manufacturer’s instructions, and see the expected shelf life of various carrier oils here.

If the herbal oil is used to make salve, lip balm, lotion, soap, or other goodies, the shelf life is extended since other preservatives are often used in those items. Beeswax is an excellent natural preservative for example! 

Visible mold and/or sour, putrid, or otherwise “off” odors are signs that oil has gone bad or rancid and should be discarded. However, cloudiness is not usually a sign of spoilage (unless accompanied by a bad smell) and can be common in herb infused oils. 

Ways to use herb infused oil

Here are some general ideas and ways to use medicinal herbal oils, but use your noggin’! Be sure the use is appropriate and safe for the type of carrier oil and herbs you used. 

• As body oil or massage oil 
• Facial moisturizer – just a few drops will do!
• Work a few drops through damp hair to soften hair and smooth split ends.
• As an ingredient in other homemade body care products like salve, soap, cream, lotion, lip balm, ointment, or other natural skincare products. Check out our lip balm and salve recipes here! For more ideas, I highly recommend this organic body care recipe book. It’s loaded with awesome recipes!
• If you used an edible carrier oil, you can use your herbal oil as a tasty marinade, salad dressing or in other culinary creations. 
• As part of your oil cleansing method
• As spot treatment directly on scars, stretch marks, varicose veins, or other areas of concern.
• To soothe rashes, bug bites eczema, psoriasis, scrapes, burns, or other skin irritations
• On cracked heels, cuticles, feet, dry elbows, or other rough patches of skin. 
• On chapped or cracked lips, or around your nose when it’s chaffed. 
• To treat cradle cap on babies (check your carrier oil safety first).
• To remove makeup (but avoid contact with sensitive areas around your eyes)

And that concludes this lesson on making herb infused oil.

Easy, right? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel excited and empowered to go make herbal oil infusions of your own. Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this to be useful, please consider leaving a star rating or sharing this post. Well, I gotta run – it’s time to go strain our next batch of face oil! Thank you so much for tuning in today. Happy infusing!

Don’t miss these related posts:

• How to Make Salve or Balms 101: Simple Flexible Recipe
• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Hemp Oil and Salve Recipe
• How to Make and Use Homemade Lavender Oil, Calendula Oil, or Rosehip Infused Oil

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How to Make Medicinal Herb Infused Oil (Slow Infusion or Quick Heat)

Learn how to make medicinal herb infused oils with fresh or dry herbs two ways: with a slow infusion or quick heat method. It's easy to do, and once you know the basics, the options of what you can create are endless. Face oil, healing salves, homemade soap… oh my!

Keyword herb infused oil, herbal oil infusion, homemade herbal oil, medicinal herb oil

Equipment

• A glass container with lid, large enough to fit the herbs and oil you plan to use
• Fine mesh strainer and cheesecloth or a nut milk bag
• Optional: double boiler or crock pot (slow cooker) and probe thermometer, for quick heat method only

Ingredients

• Herbs. Dried are best, especially for a cold slow infusion. Fresh, wilted, or dry herbs okay for quick heat method.
• Carrier oil of choice (e.g. olive oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, argan oil, or other)

Instructions

SLOW COLD INFUSION

• Fill a clean glass container at least two-thirds full with dry herbs.
• Pour over enough oil to cover the herbs by an inch or two.
• Add a lid, and let the infusion sit in a dark location for several weeks (at least 2, up to 6 weeks for maximum potency).

QUICK HEAT METHOD

• Chop herbs into small pieces
• Add herbs to a slow cooker, or the top portion of a double boiler on the stovetop
• Pour over enough oil to cover the herbs by an inch or two.
• Gently heat the herbs and oil for at least 30 minutes, up to 12 hours. Maintain temperature below 110F as much as possible.
• Leave the lid OFF so moisture can evaporate.

STRAINING AND STORAGE (both methods)

• Strain the herbs from the oil using a fine mesh colander lined with cheesecloth or a reusable nut milk bag. Let drip drain for a bit, then squeeze excess oil from the herbs.
• Transfer the finished herb infused oil into clean storage containers of choice. Compost the spent herbs.
• Store herb infused oil in a cool dark place. Refrigeration not usually necessary, but may extend shelf life.
• Most herb infused oils stay good for up to a year or longer. Check the instructions and expected shelf life of your particular carrier oil. Discard oil if it develops mold or putrid/sour smells.
• Enjoy your herb oil as-is, or use it as an ingredient in other products.

The post How to Make Medicinal Herb Infused Oil: Two Ways appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

A note about oil and skin health

When it comes to skin care, don’t be afraid of oil! Contrary to popular belief, using oil on your face won’t necessarily make it more oily or cause breakouts. (Especially if you choose the right carrier oil for your skin). Rather, oil plays a vital role in skin health. Many modern skin care products claim to “reduce shine” and impurities. In reality, they strip away natural oils, leaving your skin tight, high and dry. Dry irritated skin then overcompensates and produces more oil. All aboard the greasy rollercoaster, amirite?  

Instead, just a few drops of the right oil can restore natural sebum balance, lock in moisture, soothe irritation, and heal “imperfections”. In fact, homemade face oils are the only thing I use on my face anymore – and my skin has never been happier! It’s time to embrace fresh and dewey shine, and leave the rollercoaster behind. 

What is an herbal infusion?

Herbal infusions are created by steeping dry herbs (or other dried plant material like flowers, spices, or fruit) in a carrier oil of choice for an extended period of time. It’s crucial to use dry plant material for oil infusions as wet material can easily lead to mold and spoilage. The vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and other beneficial components of the herbs are slowly extracted into the surrounding carrier oil. 

Then, the infused oil may be used on its own – such as directly on your face or hair, or a culinary oil for salad dressing or cooking. Infused oils also serve as an important base ingredient in homemade personal care products such as salves, balms, body butter, lotion, lip balm, soap and more. Of course, you can use plain oil (not infused with herbs) in all these things too!

I will write up a guide with more detailed instructions and best practices on making herbal oil infusions soon. In the meantime, check out our guides on how to make calendula oil, lavender oil, rosehip oil, or cannabis-infused oil.

Choosing the Best Carrier Oil

When it comes to choosing a carrier oil, there is no single “best” option. What works well for you depends on your skin type, preferences, budget, and what you intend to use it for! For instance, olive oil and avocado oil are awesome options for edible creations, ultra-rich coconut oil and sweet almond oil make fantastic body care products, while you may prefer something more delicate (and non-comedogenic) like argan oil or jojoba oil for your face. 

Here are a few other things to consider:

Extraction Method: Refined vs Unrefined Oils 

Have you ever wondered what cold-pressed vs expeller-pressed oil means? Or, what’s the difference between refined and unrefined oils? Both of these concepts relate to how an oil was extracted or produced, and greatly influence the final product! 

Broadly speaking, “virgin” cold-pressed or unrefined oils are considered the highest quality carrier oils for skin care. Cold-pressed (unrefined) oils are created by crushing and pressing the raw material to extract oil without the use of heat. By avoiding heat exposure, cold-pressed oils retain the highest nutrient content. Even more, cold-pressed oils are not exposed to toxins that often go hand-in-hand with other extraction methods.

In contrast, refined oils are extracted with heat. They’re often further heavily processed and filtered to remove color, odor, or other “impurities”. Yet at the same time, they’re also being stripped of many health benefits. Enzymes and nutrients are destroyed during high-heat mechanical extraction (including expeller-pressed). What’s worse, heat can create new toxic byproducts such as polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) – known carcinogens. Toxins like hexane are also introduced during chemical or solvent extraction, further contaminating the oil.

Oil labels or product descriptions should always specify if it’s refined, unrefined, or what extraction method was used.

Benefits of Organic Carrier Oils

Personally, we like to use certified organic carrier oils to make skin care products and infusions. The goal is to create the most healthy, healing, and helpful products possible after all! Plus, our skin is our largest organ – and a highly absorbent one at that. Be it olives, sunflowers, or almonds, if a crop was treated with pesticides and herbicides while it was growing, residual toxins will be present in the oil extraction too, and likely even more concentrated than they were on the crop themselves! 

The same idea applies to essential oils, which is why we only use USDA-certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy. Many other popular EO brands claim to be “self-certified” or “better than organic” but I am skeptical. This is a personal decision of course, but we try to be just as cautious about what we put ON our bodies as what we put in them. 

Comedogenic Ratings

The comedogenic scale is a rating system for how likely an oil (or other product) is to clog your pores and therefore cause breakouts. The lower the comedogenic rating, the least likely it is to clog your pores. Therefore, carrier oils with a rating of 0 to 2 are considered “non-comedogenic”. A rating of 3 is slightly comedogenic, and 4 to 5 is moderate-to-highly comedogenic and very likely to clog pores. In most cases, oils with higher ratings are increasingly thick or “greasy”, while lower-ranked oils are more lightweight and easily absorb into skin.  

The severity of the potential breakout depends on each individual’s skin and sensitivities, as well as the part of the body the oil is used on. For instance, using a comedogenic oil or butter may not cause issues when applied to your legs, hands or arms, though it may lead to acne when used on your face, shoulders or back. 

Mixing Oils

If you’re going through the list of the best carrier oils below and think “shoot, several of these sound good!” then by all means: mix them up! Create your own custom blend with two or three different oils. For example, we usually use half sweet almond oil and half sunflower carrier oil in the organic skin care products we offer in our shop. Both are organic, cold-pressed, and highly nourishing, but offer a great balance to one another – both in texture and in price. 

Shelf Life and Storage 

You may also want to consider shelf life and storage requirements when choosing a carrier oil for skin care or infusions. For instance, rosehip oil tends to have a shorter shelf life (only 6 months) while jojoba oil stays good for up to 5 years! Some oils suggest refrigerating after opening (especially hemp oil), while many others do not. These characteristics vary a lot by brand and formulation, so refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations on the bottle.

Now without further ado…

11 Best Carrier Oils for Skin, Salves, Edibles and More

1) Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Comedogenic rating: Olive oil comes in at a 2 on the comedogenic scale. Though it’s only “mildly comedogenic”, olive oil is known to be on the thick and heavy side – which may lead to breakouts for acne-prone individuals. 

Edible? Yes. As a popular healthy cooking oil, olive oil is an ideal choice for edible herb infusions, such as homemade rosemary or basil-infused oil! 

Unique properties: Extra virgin olive oil (also known as EVOO) is possibly one of the most readily-available oils on this list. You should be able to find great organic olive oil options at your local natural food store! High in natural fatty acids, polyphenols and vitamin A, E, D and K, it is also extremely nourishing and hydrating for dry skin and hair. Olive oil also contains a rare antioxidant called hydroxytyrosol, an anti-aging compound that protects against free radical damage. 

Compared to many other carrier oils, olive oil does have a fairly strong and distinct odor and flavor, which will also influence your final product.  

2) Argan Oil

Comedogenic rating: Coming in with a rating of zero, argan oil is totally non-comedogenic. 

Edible? Argan oil is available in both culinary-grade (edible) and cosmetic-only (non-edible) versions, so read the label! It has a subtle nutty flavor.

Unique properties: Argan oil, also known as Moroccan oil, is fantastic for your skin! It goes on light but is highly moisturizing, and is a great choice for all skin types. The high levels of Vitamin E, stearic acid, and palmitic fatty acid found in argan oil help to reduce fine lines, discoloration, scars, excess oil production, and even acne. It’s known to soften skin, increase elasticity, and protect against sun damage. It’s also a very popular ingredient in hair care products. Argan is one of my personal favorite carrier oils for skin care!

3) Jojoba Oil

Comedogenic rating: Jojoba oil is rated a 2 but is still considered non-comedogenic. The molecular structure of jojoba closely resembles that of our skin’s natural oils, so it absorbs exceptionally well! Overall, it’s lightweight, non-greasy, and tolerated well by most users. In fact, it is one of the most popular carrier oils for skin care!

Edible? No, jojoba oil is not edible. Even though it shouldn’t be consumed in large quantities, it’s perfectly safe to use jojoba oil as a carrier oil for homemade lip balm recipes however! 

Unique properties: Jojoba oil (which is actually a liquid wax, not a true oil) is an antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory. It boasts high levels of Vitamin E, zinc, and omega fatty acids. All of which make jojoba oil effective at soothing eczema, acne, psoriasis, wounds, and other skin conditions. Its exceptional shelf-life (up to 5 years), neutral aroma and color are added benefits.

Eicosenoic acid (EA) accounts for 70% of the total fatty acids found in jojoba oil – a powerful plant-based monounsaturated fatty acid. EA works to break down oil build up, unclog pores, remove impurities, and reduce excess sebum (oil) production. This helps stressed skin regain a healthy moisture balance, and makes jojoba a great option for those with dry, oily, or combination skin alike! Because of this however, some people experience a temporary initial “purge” of small breakouts when they first begin to use jojoba oil. Rest assured it’s just doing its job.

4) Coconut Oil (Regular or Fractionated)

Comedogenic rating: Regular coconut oil (the stuff that is solid at room temperature) is a 4 on the comedogenic scale, which means it is likely to cause breakouts. On the other hand, fractionated coconut oil (liquid at room temperature) is slightly lower – rated a 2 to 3.

Edible? Yep! Coconut oil is a good choice for edible infusions, though keep in mind it will add a coconut-y flavor to your final product. 

Unique properties: Rich, luxurious, and loaded with nutrients, coconut oil is often praised for its numerous benefits in the world of natural health and beauty. In addition to offering deep moisture to soften skin and hair, the high levels of lauric and caprylic acid in coconut oil make it antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antifungal. Meaning, coconut oil can aid in healing wounds, infections, and potentially acne. 

However, acne-prone folks should proceed with caution – especially with coconut oil infusions intended for your face, shoulders, or upper back. Coconut is exceptionally thick and can easily clog pores, counterproductive to its healing properties. In that case, fractionated coconut oil may be a better choice, which is less thick and greasy.

5) Sweet Almond Oil

Comedogenic rating: Sweet almond oil is rated 2 on the comedogenic scale, but it is still largely considered “non-comedogenic” and is unlikely to cause breakouts.

Edible? Sweet almond oil is indeed edible, though cooking or high heat will decrease its nutritional value.

Unique properties: Sweet almond oil is rich but gentle. It’s an excellent carrier oil choice for sensitive skin, dry and delicate skin, and is also safe for babies. Sweet almond oil is packed with vitamins and nutrients, including omega 6 and 9 fatty acids, vitamin A and E, potassium, and zinc. It’s effective at reducing inflammation, excess sebum, eczema, acne, and dryness. Sweet almond oil may help to improve overall skin tone and complexion by reducing scars, dark circles, and discoloration.

6) Rosehip Seed Oil

Comedogenic rating: Rosehip oil has a comedogenic rating of 1, making it non-comedogenic.   

Edible? Rosehip oil is made by pressing the fruit and seeds of rosehips, the small berry-like fruit of rose plants. Though rosehips themselves are edible, it’s generally recommended to NOT consume processed (concentrated) rosehip oil or use it internally. 

Unique properties: Rosehip oil is a lightweight and hydrating carrier oil that absorbs easily into skin. It’s loaded with antioxidants, essential fatty acids, flavonoids, polyphenols, and Vitamins C, A, B, E and F that all help fight inflammation, redness, scars, fine lines, stretch marks, and sun damage. Rosehip oil also contains retinoids that can soothe acne, dermatitis, psoriasis and eczema. 

All in all, rosehip oil is really fantastic for your skin! However, it’s fairly rare and costly to make, so high-quality rosehip oil tends to cost a pretty penny. So, we make our own rosehip-infused oil instead! Learn how here. It’s not exactly the same as a commercially-extracted rosehip seed oil, but by steeping homegrown organic rosehips in a carrier oil of choice (such as argan oil) we’re able to reap the benefits of both!

7) Hemp Seed Oil

Comedogenic rating: Hemp seed oil is another zero on the comedogenic scale.   

Edible? Yes! In fact, hemp seed oil is becoming increasingly popular to use in salads, smoothies and other meals as an easy source of healthy essential fatty acids. Hemp seed oil has a low smoke point so it’s not the best for hot cooking.

Unique properties: Hemp seed oil is a fine carrier oil choice for any skin type! Chock-full of omega 6 fatty acids, a powerful anti-inflammatory that also promotes new healthy cell growth, hemp oil can calm irritation, psoriasis, eczema and acne. It’s very light, “dry”, and highly absorbable oil because it closely resembles the fat and amino acid composition as our skin’s natural sebum. Hemp seed oil will leave your skin supple and hydrated but not greasy.  

Note: Don’t confuse hemp seed oil with other hemp oils. Hemp seed oil is an innocuous oil that comes from hemp seeds, not cannabis flower. Unlike some other types of hemp oil out there, it does not contain cannabinoids like THC or CBD.

8) Sunflower Oil

Comedogenic rating: Sunflower oil is non-comedogenic (rated 0 or 1 depending on how it was processed) and will not clog your pores.

Edible? Technically, sunflower oil is edible. Yet when it’s exposed to extreme heat (such as frying), sunflower oil can produce harmful substances including aldehydes – a toxin that is linked to cancer, heart disease and dementia. Therefore, it’s best to avoid cooking with sunflower oil. On the other hand, rest assured that lightly heating sunflower oil to make salve or balm (e.g. in a double boiler) is not hot enough to form aldehydes. (It has to be heated to 365F or 180C for that to occur). 

Unique properties: Sunflower oil is exceptionally high in Vitamin E, an incredible antioxidant that rejuvenates skin while fighting inflammation, redness, irritation, free radicals, and UV sun damage. It’s also known to help repair the natural skin barrier. High oleic sunflower oil has the longest shelf life along with the highest concentrations of Vitamin E, C, K, and nourishing omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids. 

Sunflower oil is considered a “dry oil”, meaning it is lightweight, absorbs quickly, and leaves your skin feeling hydrated but not greasy. That said, it doesn’t provide as intense of moisture as other carrier oils on the list but is a good choice for oily and combination skin. It’s also a good one to pair with heavier oils if you’re considering mixing a couple.

9) Avocado Oil

Comedogenic rating: Avocado oil is rated a 3 on the comedogenic scale. 

Edible: Absolutely! Along with olive oil, avocado oil is an ideal option for edible oil infusions.

Unique properties: Avocado oil is thick and somewhat heavy, and offers deep, long-lasting, skin-softening moisture. It’s a great carrier oil for dry skin or luxurious body creams, but may not be the best choice for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Avocado oil boasts lofty levels of fatty acids, lecithin, beta carotene, protein, and vitamins E, A, and D. Studies show it can help boost collagen production as well as aid in healing wounds, inflammation, scars, age spots, and potentially psoriasis. Note that avocado oil is typically quite green. This will impact the color of your herbal infusion, salve, or balm. 

10) Safflower Oil

Comedogenic rating: Safflower oil is rated 0 on the comedogenic scale, so it should not lead to breakouts.

Edible? Safflower oil is edible at both low and high temperatures. 

Unique properties: Safflower oil is often underrated as a carrier oil for skin. While it doesn’t quite have the allure of argan or esteem of EVOO, safflower oil has a lot to offer for dry, acne-prone, oily, or sensitive skin alike! Its neutral aroma lends itself well to herbal infusions and homemade body care products. 

Like sunflower oil, safflower oil is a lightweight “dry oil” that soaks right in but offers long-lasting hydration. Similar to jojoba, safflower oil is known to help unclog pores and restore balance to natural oil levels. It boasts antioxidants and fatty acids that can soothe inflammation, psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, and protect against UV damage. The high linoleic acid content in safflower oil promotes cell renewal to improve acne, scars, hyperpigmentation and overall skin texture.  

Note: Safflower oil comes from a flower that is part of the ragweed family. Thus, those with allergies to ragweed should avoid this oil. 

11) Grapeseed Oil

Comedogenic rating: Grapeseed oil is rated 1 on the comedogenic scale.

Edible? Yes, but not recommended for high-heat cooking. When exposed to high heat (such as frying) it forms harmful compounds and free radicals.

Unique properties: Grapeseed oil is naturally antimicrobial and may help reduce acne. It’s high in polyunsaturated fats (mostly omega 6 fatty acids) and Vitamin E. As another “dry” oil, grapeseed oil is especially lightweight, non-greasy, and easily absorbs into skin. It won’t provide quite as deep of moisture as some other oils on the list, which makes it a great carrier oil choice for oily skin – or one to combine with another richer oil.

One thing to be aware of is that grapeseed oil is sometimes contaminated with trace PAHs – or polyaromatic hydrocarbons (known carcinogens). This occurs when the grapeseeds are heated to dry before extraction, so cold-pressed grapeseed oil doesn’t necessarily avoid this. The PAH content seems unpredictable and varies depending on how the oil is further refined and filtered after extraction.

And that sums up the 11 best carrier oil options for your skin, body, and culinary creations!

Well folks, I hope that was enlightening and informative! There are so many awesome carrier oil options out there, but it was pretty easy to narrow it down to these top 11 choices. I left out a few other popular options like castor oil (great for hair growth and inflammation, but rather thick for your face) and meadowfoam oil (more rare and difficult to source organic). Did I miss your favorite? Please let us know or feel free to ask any questions in the comments below. Also please consider pinning or sharing this post if you found it useful! Thanks for tuning in.

Don’t miss these related posts:

• Homemade Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• How to Make Lavender Oil, Calendula Oil or Rosehip Oil
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Cannabis Oil and Salve Recipe (THC or CBD)

The post 11 Best Carrier Oils for Skin Care, Salves and Infusions appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

Come learn how to safely make sun tea using dry or fresh herbs. We’ll explore examples of the best herbs to use in sun tea, important safety precautions and good brewing practices, and other commonly asked questions. Overall, it’s easy and fun to make sun tea. Depending on the herbs you use, sun tea can offer wonderful medicinal benefits too! 

What is sun tea?

Sun tea is a refreshing beverage made by steeping herbs or tea in water, left out in the sunshine to infuse. You can make sun tea with a variety of fresh herbs, dried herbs, flowers, spices, and/or tea leaves – including decaf or caffeinated tea. Black sun tea is a classic, but we’ll focus mostly on herbs today. 

While undoubtedly nostalgic and delicious, sun tea has become a bit controversial in recent years. Herbalists revere sun tea for its place in tradition and potential health benefits – including the powers of solar infusion. Meanwhile, leery microbiologists warn that sun tea can be the perfect breeding ground for bacteria.

To be honest, it makes me sad how many Google hits around sun tea are warnings to avoid it altogether! That’s silly, like saying to avoid preserving your own food since there is risk involved if done incorrectly (and a very slight risk at that). So, let’s address that from the start! 

Keep in mind that I used to be a health inspector in a past life, and we make sun tea all the time.

Is sun tea safe?

For the most part, yes. If you follow the recommended best practices, making herbal sun tea is safe, healthy, and fun. However, there is some slight risk for potentially harmful bacteria to grow in sun tea under prime and unfortunate circumstances. In addition to following a short brewing time of 4 hours or less (explained more below), other ways to minimize risk include:

• Thoroughly wash and clean your brewing vessel with hot water before starting. 
• Choose glass containers to make sun tea rather than plastic. Toxins can leach out of plastic, especially when left to sit in the hot sun! We usually brew our tea in sturdy half-gallon mason jars or a glass flip-top container like this.
• Keep the brewing vessel covered with a sealed lid at all times, especially while it is sitting outside. Do not cover with cheesecloth or other breathable materials that may allow contaminants in. 
• Wash fresh herbs well with hot water before steeping.
• If you’re extra nervous, stick with dry herbs. We often use fresh herbs to make sun tea, though dried herbs do pose less risk. 
• Do not add sugar during brewing because sugar encourages bacterial growth. If you wish to sweeten your sun tea, wait to add sugar (or honey, agave, maple syrup, etc) until right before you drink it. 
• Make small batches of sun tea at a time; an amount you’ll be able to consume within a few days. Keep tea refrigerated after brewing.
• Avoid herbs with bird poop.

How long should sun tea sit in the sun?

To follow food safety best practices, sun tea should sit out for only three to four hours maximum, and then be consumed or refrigerated immediately thereafter. Temperatures between 40-140 degrees Fahrenheit (aka, the temperature of your beloved tea is steeping at) is considered the “danger zone” in the food safety world. When potentially hazardous foods or beverages are in that temperature range for 4 hours or longer, harmful pathogens may develop. This also applies to wet plant material in an enclosed jar.

That said, I know there are many folks who often brew their sun tea much longer without any issues! Myself included, especially before I “knew better”…. But out of an overabundance of caution, I have to pass along the information so you can make an informed decision.

To maximize the steeping, sun power, and flavor extraction despite the short brew time, I like to start my herbal sun tea with warm water (especially because our weather is quite mild here). I also try to put it out during the hottest, sunniest part of the afternoon. Without adequate warmth and time, sun tea can be weaker in flavor or medicinal benefits. You can also allow the herbs to continue to cold-infuse in the refrigerator after a few hours in the sun, as explained in the instructions to follow.

Can I use fresh herbs to make sun tea?

Yes! Most store-bought herbal tea is dried to extend its shelf life, but that doesn’t mean it has to be. Fresh herbs can be more rich in vitamins and nutrients, and offer a lighter, more delicate flavor to sun tea. On the other hand, the flavor and antioxidants are even more concentrated in dry herbs – so a little goes a long way! The general rule of thumb is to use three times as much fresh herbs than dry herbs to achieve a similar flavor. 

Last but not least, keep in mind that fresh herbs are more likely to introduce bacteria to your sun tea than dry herbs… but don’t let that dissuade you from using them. Just stick to the recommended brew time, washing, and temperature controls. Plus, not all bacteria is harmful! By and large, microbes are our friends. Use just-picked herbs for the best results.

The Best Herbs to Make Sun Tea

You can use any edible herb to make sun tea. Rosemary, oregano, thyme, sage… However, the herbs listed below will make the best-tasting sun tea:

• Mint – including peppermint, spearmint, chocolate mint and others
• Lemon Balm
• Lemon Verbena
• Chamomile 
• Tulsi (holy basil)
• Pineapple sage
• Basil
• Anise hyssop (flowers or leaves)
• Lavender buds (English lavender is the most sweet)

The following herbs may not be quite as tasty, but will offer wonderful medicinal benefits to your sun tea:

• Yarrow flowers
• Echinacea (root and flower mostly)
• Dandelion (root, leaf or flower)
• Red clover blossoms or leaves
• Nettles (blanch or dry before use to “de-sting”)

You can also add edible flowers to sun tea for a pretty pop of color, including but not limited to: violas, roses, bachelors buttons, borage flowers (in moderation), hibiscus, calendula, and elderflower (flowers only, the leaves and stems are toxic).

Make sun tea with just one or two types of herbs, or mix several at once! Just be sure you’re familiar with or properly ID the herbs before adding them to your brew. A quick Google search can usually help with identification. Also please do further research about safety if you’re pregnant, nursing, or have any health issues. 

To learn more about the characteristics, medicinal benefits, and other uses for each herb, I highly recommend this book: Beginner’s Guide to Medicinal Herbs by Rosemary Gladstar. Also feel free to pop over to our Growing Herbs 101 guide.

Steps To Make Sun Tea

1. Start with a durable clean glass container (washed with hot water), and thoroughly rinse fresh herbs with warm water.
   
   
2. For fresh herbs, fill the container about one-third to half full. To make sun tea with dried herbs, you can either add dry herbs right into the container/water and strain them later (like we’ll do with fresh herbs), or keep them contained in a large loose-leaf tea strainer, cheesecloth, reusable mesh bag, or other similar porous material. A handful or several tablespoons (about an ounce) of dry herbs per half gallon water is a good amount.
   
   
3. Optional: add some tea if you’d like! We usually just use herbs, but if I do add tea, I really love the bulk organic loose leaf options from Numi – like jasmine green, golden oolong, or black breakfast blend. Follow recommended amounts on the package.
   
   
4. Add filtered water, and cover the container with a tight-fitting lid. Again, I usually use warm water to jumpstart the brewing process.
   
   
5. Allow the sun tea to brew in direct sunlight for three to four hours. Food safety experts recommend no more than 4 hours if you intend to drink it immediately, and only 3 to 3.5 hours if you’ll be refrigerating leftovers. I like to set mine outside (which will warm up the most) though you could also set it in a sunny window if needed. The hottest time of day will yield the best results.
   
   
6. When the time is up, strain the fresh herbs or remove the dry herb “tea bag”. To strain our tea, we usually position a fine mesh colander over a separate clean container (jar or bowl) and pour the sun tea through. For a stronger infusion, you can also leave the herbs in the sun tea overnight (in the fridge) and strain it the following day. I do this often, especially after brewing on temperate days, or when I’m too lazy/busy to strain it immediately! Compost the spent herbs or tea.
   
   
7. Store the finished sun tea in the refrigerator.
   
   
8. Now it’s time to enjoy your brew! Pour some over ice and enjoy a refreshing glass of homemade herbal sun tea. I usually drink mine plain, or add a slice of lemon and/or cucumber from the garden. 

How long is sun tea good for?

Sun tea that has been refrigerated after brewing is best used within 5 days (a week maximum). You’ll notice it darkens in color over time, which is totally normal. Chlorophyll, or the compound in plants that gives them their green color, is simply oxidizing.  Do not consume if it grows mold or develops off odors.

Can you add fresh fruit to sun tea?

Adding fruit to sun tea increases the risk for harmful bacterial growth in your brew. The fruit itself may introduce microbes, and the sugar in the fruit helps to feed microbes that may be in the vessel in general. If you really want to make a fruit-forward tea, it’d be best to use boiling water and a short steeping period rather than slow-brewing sun tea.

That said, you can add fruit to your sun tea if you follow the best safe brewing practices we’ve explored in this article. Strawberries, peaches, and cucumber are especially delicious, and pair exceptionally well with minty tea flavors. 

Citrus are the safest fruits to use in sun tea, including lemon, lime, oranges or grapefruit. Their acidic nature can help reduce bacterial growth. I love to add dehydrated citrus to mine! I also often add sliced cucumber or fresh lemon to my glass of sun tea, but not during the brewing process itself. Sliced fresh ginger is another amazing addition!

And that concludes this lesson on how to safely make herbal sun tea!

Of course you can also make herbal tea by steeping fresh or dried herbs in boiling water for a few minutes, but sun tea has always held a special place in my heart – and now on our homestead! I hope this provides you with all the information you need to feel comfortable and excited to safely make sun tea too. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments below, and please consider sharing or pinning this article if you found it useful. You can also leave a star rating and review below if you wish! Happy brewing!

You may also like:

• Growing Herbs 101: How to Start a Kitchen Herb Garden
• How to Make Golden Milk: Turmeric Latte Recipe
• 10 Best Vegetarian and Vegan Supplements for Improved Health
• Homemade Elderberry Syrup Recipe
• How to Make Fire Cider Immunity Tonic
• How to Propagate (Grow) Sage Cuttings in Water or Soil

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How to Safely Make Sun Tea With Fresh or Dry Herbs

Mint. Lemon verbena. Chamomile. Pineapple sage. Doesn't that sound refreshing? Come learn how to safely make sun tea using fresh or dried herbs, including the best herbs to use, important safety precautions, good brewing practices, and other commonly asked questions.

Prep Time 15 minutes minutes

Brewing Time 4 hours hours

Equipment

• Large glass container with lid (such as a half mason jar or flip-top container)
• Bulk loose-leaf tea strainer, cheesecloth, or reusable food safe mesh bag (optional)

Ingredients

• Fresh herbs of choice, such as mint, chamomile, lemon verbena, lemon balm, tulsi, etc. (fill container about 1/3 to half full)
• or 1/3 the amount in dry herbs (use about 1 ounce or 2-3 tbsp of dried herbs per half gallon of water)

Instructions

• Start with a very clean container (wash with hot water). Also rinse fresh herbs with warm to hot water.
• For fresh herbs, loosely fill the container 1/3 to 1/2 full of herbs (sometimes I do less). For dry herbs, use about 1 ounce or 2-3 Tbsp (about a handful). You can put dry herbs right in the containers, or keep them inside a loose leaf tea strainer, cheesecloth, or other porous "tea bag".
• Optional: add some tea if you'd like, such as bulk organic loose leaf jasmine green, golden oolong, or black breakfast blend. Follow recommended amounts on the package.
• Add warm filtered water.
• Cover the container with a lid.
• Allow the herbal sun tea to steep in the direct sun for 3 to 4 hours (4 hours if you'll consume it all immediately thereafter, 3 to 3.5 hours if you'll be refrigerating leftovers). The hottest time of day will yield best results.
• Stain tea through a fine mesh colander or cheesecloth to remove the herbs. (For a stronger brew, let the herbs continue to cold-infuse in the fridge overnight and strain the following day instead.)
• Immediately refrigerate leftovers and maintain refrigerated.
• Enjoy within 5 days for best results, up to one week. Discard if mold or off odors develop.
• Food safety best practice: only add sugar, fruit, or other sweetener at the time of consumption, not during the brewing process.

The post How to Safely Make Sun Tea With Fresh or Dry Herbs appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

I used to buy rosehip oil all the time; I love to use it as a facial moisturizer. But then we moved into a new homestead with established rose vines, so I started harvesting and drying my own hips! I love that I can now make rosehip oil with homegrown ingredients, though it’s even easier to buy dried rosehips to use in this recipe.

Benefits of Rosehip Oil for Skin

Rose hips are the fruit of rose plants, and rosehip oil is like a superfood for your skin! Studies confirm that rose hips are exceptionally rich in antioxidants, healthy omega fatty acids (oleic, linoleic and linolenic acid), polyphenols, flavonoids, and many vitamins, including Vitamins C, A, B, E and F. By infusing rose hips in oil, all those therapeutic compounds are extracted into the carrier oil and transformed into a highly-absorbable form to use topically. 

Rosehip oil hydrates skin while protecting against free radicals and sun damage. It can help to reduce inflammation and redness as well as the appearance of scars, stretch marks, fine lines and other discoloration. Thanks to the presence of Vitamin A, retinoids, and Vitamin F, rosehip oil will also help fight acne, eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis while simultaneously locking in moisture. In a nutshell, rosehip oil has the potential to make your skin glow!

And that’s only highlighting the rose hips themselves. You’ll glean additional benefits depending on the oil you choose for your rosehip infusion. For example, I love to use organic argan oil to make homemade rosehip oil, which is well-known for its healing and protective properties too.

Supplies Needed to Make Rosehip Oil

1. Dry rose hips. You can use homegrown rosehips, wild foraged hips, or store-bought hips to make homemade rosehip oil. They can be left whole, or cut in half – your choice! We usually cut them in half to increase the surface area and flesh contact with the oil. Either way, they’ll need to be thoroughly dried before infusing them in oil. Fresh hips contain too much water and can make your oil go rancid! Buy organic dried rose hips here, or check out this article to learn how to harvest and dry your own fresh hips. 
   

2. Oil of choice, such as jojoba oil, extra virgin olive oil, or sweet almond oil. I love all of those, but am especially keen on argan oil right now. Read about various oil options and their benefits below. No matter the type, I highly recommend using an organic cold-pressed oil for the best quality!
   

3. A jar or other glass container with a lid. A pint jar is perfect for this recipe.
   

4. A fine-mesh strainer, sieve and/or cheesecloth to strain the infusion.
   
   
5. Bottles of choice for final storage and use – such as a small jar, oil dropper bottle, or a small pump bottle. 
   

6. Optional: If you want to your rosehip oil to be ready more quickly (using the low heat method) you’ll either need a crockpot (slow cooker) or a double-boiler to use on the stove.
   

Carrier Oil Options

You can make this homemade rosehip oil recipe with any type of oil you prefer. Jojoba oil, sweet almond oil and grapeseed oil are all popular choices for oil infusions intended to be used on your face. They’re all nutrient-rich, moisturizing, and rank 1 or 2 on the comedogenic scale – meaning they’re considered “noncomedogenic” and are unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts. 

Olive oil and coconut oil are even more hydrating but may cause breakouts for acne-prone skin, so I only like to use those for body oils and salves – not my face. However, using an edible oil like olive oil will enable you to consume your homemade rosehip oil if you wish (e.g. as salad dressing) and reap the immune-boosting benefits it offers! To use coconut oil, choose one that is liquid at room temperature.

My current favorite is organic argan oil. It is rated 0 on the comedogenic scale, and is known to protect against sun damage, treat acne, and soothe skin irritation. It’s loaded with vitamin E and antioxidants, making it highly nourishing and hydrating for your skin without being greasy. 

To explore even more oil options, pop over to our homemade calendula oil recipe where I cover 11 different carrier oils in more detail.

Instructions to Make Rosehip Oil (Slow Cold Infusion)

This is my favorite way to make rosehip oil. The passive cold infusion is easy and essentially hands-off! Also, avoiding high heat will better preserve the therapeutic compounds found in the hips. However, it does take more patience and time. So if you want your rosehip oil ASAP, try the stovetop method instead (described to follow).

Step 1: Mix Oil and Dry Rose Hips 

Start by combining 1 cup of dry rose hips with 1.5 to 2 cups of oil in a container with a lid. A glass container is ideal. For instance, I add 1 cup of dried rose hips to a pint mason jar, and then pour over enough oil to fill the rest of the jar (which ends up being about 1.75 cups). The final yield of finished rosehip oil will be about the same amount of oil you start with. Scale up or down as needed.

Remember it is essential to use dry rose hips, NOT fresh ones! Since the infusion will be strained at the end, it’s okay to use dry rose hips that haven’t been thoroughly cleaned or de-haired. I like to save my really clean homegrown dry hips to make rosehip tea, while saving the fuzzy or seedy ones for infusions. Plus, rosehip seeds contain many medicinal compounds too – so I welcome them to the mix!

Step 2: Infuse

Now we wait! Let the rosehip oil infusion sit at room temperature to steep for at least two weeks. If you have time, longer is even better! During this time, the beneficial compounds will be pulled from the rosehips and infused into the oil. Keep the container in a fairly cool and dark location. (Despite the name “cold infusion” it doesn’t need to be cold-cold. You just don’t want it sitting somewhere hot.)

I put my homemade rosehip oil either in a cabinet or on a dark shelf in the back of our Homestead and Chill storage room, where our calendula oil and lavender oil also hang out to infuse. I also like to occasionally shake the jar during this time (once every few days or whenever I see it and remember) though it’s not totally necessary. This particular batch sat for over a month, just because I was too busy to strain and bottle it.

Step 3: Strain

After two or more weeks, it’s time to strain the finished oil from the dry rose hips. Position a fine-mesh strainer (sieve) over a small bowl or fresh jar. If your rose hips were halved and at all hairy (or, if you want to put your finished oil in a pump bottle), I suggest lining the strainer with several layers of cheesecloth to better filter the oil. The sieve alone should be sufficient if you used whole dry rose hips. Now pour the rosehip oil through the filters and into the clean container below. Let it sit to drip awhile, and then compost or discard the solids.

Step 4: Bottle and Enjoy

Finally, transfer your homemade rosehip oil into a storage container – such a glass jar or bottle. Since I mostly use rosehip oil for my face (as a daily moisturizer) I like to store it in a small dropper bottle or pump bottle for easy application.

Store your finished rosehip oil in a cool dark place. The quality will be best if used within 6 months (also depending on the shelf life of your chosen oil). If the oil becomes cloudy, moldy, or develops an off odor, discontinue use. Storing rosehip oil in the refrigerator will help extend its shelf life up to a year or longer. Note that pure argan oil will solidify in the fridge. That’s normal, and a good sign that it’s pure! If you intend to leave it out (such as on your bathroom counter) I suggest using amber bottles to protect your oil from light degradation.

Keep reading below for more ideas of how to use homemade rosehip oil!

How to Make Rosehip Oil on the Stove (or in a crock pot)

To make rosehip oil in the stovetop or in a crock pot (aka slow cooker) it is important to maintain the lowest “warm” temperature possible. As I mentioned before, high heat can destroy the beneficial antioxidants and essential fatty acids in the rose hips. Therefore, I recommend using a probe thermometer to monitor the temperature of the oil and do your best to keep it below 100ᵒF at all times.

• Combine 1 cup of dry rose hips per 2 cups of oil either in a double-boiler or crock pot. Don’t have a double-boiler? Create your own by nesting a smaller pot inside of a larger one, or resting a heat-safe glass bowl on top of a pot of water.
  
• In a crock pot, use the lowest heat setting possible. In a double-boiler, bring the water in the lower pot to a low boil but then reduce down to a simmer. 
  
• Allow the mixture to infuse over low heat for several hours, up to 8 to 12 hours for maximum extraction. 
  
• Some herbalists recommend macerating or chopping up the rose hips prior to infusing to maximize the extraction. Another option is to press and mash the rose hips while they’re heating in the oil. 
  
• Allow to cool, and then thoroughly strain away the solids using a sieve and/or cheesecloth before bottling (as described in detail above).

12 Ways to Use Rosehip Oil

1. As a daily facial moisturizer. Use just a few drops; a little goes a long way!
   
   
2. As spot treatment directly on scars, eczema, stretch marks or other areas of concern. 
   
   
3. Use rosehip oil as an ingredient in other homemade body care products that call for oil, such as our homemade lip balm recipe, calendula salve or lavender salve, or this rosehip soap recipe. For instance, you could use half rosehip oil and half calendula oil to create an extra-strength healing salve!
   
   
4. If you use edible carrier oil, you can use rosehip oil as salad dressing, marinade or in other culinary creations. 
   
   
5. Apply rosehip oil to cracked heels and feet.
   
   
6. For dry hands, or as a nail and cuticle “cream”.
   
   
7. As a massage oil.
   
   
8. On dry, cracked or chapped lips or around your nose when chaffed.
   
   
9. Work a few drops through damp hair to soften hair and smooth split ends.
   
   
10. To treat cradle cap on babies (check your carrier oil safety first).
    
    
11. To soothe burns, rashes, sunburns, or scrapes. 
    
    
12. Use on dry elbows or other rough patches of skin.

Basically, you’ll want to rub it all over!

And now you know how to make rosehip oil!

I hope you enjoyed learning this new simple skill, and love using your homemade rosehip oil even more. A printable recipe is included below for easy reference. Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below. Also stop back by to leave a review once you give it a try!

You may also love:

• Natural Lip Balm Recipe
• How to Make Homemade Lavender Oil or Calendula Oil
• Homemade Elderberry Syrup for Immune Health & Allergy Relief
• Soothing Homemade Lavender Salve Recipe
• Calendula Salve Recipe for Healthy Skin
• Homemade Hemp Oil and Salve Recipe

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Homemade Rosehip Oil Recipe

Rosehip oil is intensely hydrating, healing, and nourishing for your skin. Come learn how to make rosehip oil at home, using either a slow cold-infusion method, on the stovetop or in a crock pot.

Keyword homemade rosehip oil, natural beauty, natural health, natural skincare, rosehip infused oil, rosehip oil

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Infusion time 14 days days

Equipment

• a glass container for infusing, such as a pint jar
• cheesecloth and/or sieve for straining
• bottles for final storage
• Optional: double boiler or crock pot (only if using the heat method instead of passive cold infusion)

Ingredients

• 1 cup dried rose hips, whole or halved (organic if possible)
• 1.75 cups carrier oil of choice. Popular options include jojoba oil, extra virgin olive oil, argan oil, grapeseed oil, and sweet almond oil. Select a high-quality, unrefined, cold-pressed, and organic oils for the most healthy and healing results. (Choose an edible oil if you intend to ingest your rosehip oil.)

Instructions

Passive "Cold Infusion" Method

• Obtain dried rose hips. It is important to start with 100% dry hips, not fresh.
• Fill a clean glass container 1 cup of dried rose hips
• Combine 1.5 to 2 cups oil for every 1 cup of rose hips used. Pour oil of choice over the dried rose hips until the container is full. (A pint glass jar with 1 cup of rose hips can usually hold about 1.75 cups of oil)
• Place a lid on the container, and store it at room temperature in a fairly cool and dark place for at least 2 weeks. Shake on occasion (optional).
• After two weeks or longer, strain the solids from the oil. If your rosehips are at all fuzzy or hairy, I suggest lining a fine-mesh strainer (sieve) with a few layers of cheesecloth to filter it well. Place the strainer over a clean container, and then pour the oil and rosehips in to strain. Compost or discard the solids.
• Store the finished rosehip oil in a cool, dry, dark location. Rosehip oil should stay good for 6 months or longer. Discontinue use if the oil gets moldy, rancid, cloudy, or develops a bad aroma. Rosehip oil can also be stored in the refrigerator to extend the shelf life up to a year or more.
• Enjoy! Use your homemade rosehip oil as a daily facial moisturizer (only a few drops needed), as a massage or body oil, on problem areas, as part of your oil cleansing method, an ingredient in other homemade skincare recipes such as salve or soap, to condition and soften hair, as salad dressing or marinade, and more.

Stovetop or Crockpot Method

• Combine 1 cup of dry rose hips per 2 cups of oil either in a double-boiler or crock pot.
• In a crock pot, use the lowest heat setting possible. In a double-boiler, bring the water in the lower pot to a low boil but then reduce down to a simmer. Maintain the temperature below 100F for the best results (high heat can denature or destroy the beneficial antioxidants and fatty acids).
• Allow the mixture to infuse over low heat for several hours, up to 8 to 12 hours for maximum extraction.
• Some herbalists recommend macerating or chopping up the rose hips prior to infusing to maximize the extraction. Another option is to press and mash the rose hips while they're heating in the oil.
• Allow to cool, and then thoroughly strain away the solids using a sieve and/or cheesecloth before bottling and using (as described in detail above).

The post How to Make Nourishing Rosehip Oil + 12 Ways to Use It appeared first on Homestead and Chill.