Garden Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/garden/ Organic Gardening | Real Food | Natural Health | Good Vibes Thu, 07 Sep 2023 15:31:05 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.2 https://homesteadandchill.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/H-75x75.png Garden Archives ~ Homestead and Chill https://homesteadandchill.com/category/garden/ 32 32 155825441 DIY Berry Trellis: How to Build a Wire Raspberry or Blackberry Trellis (Video) https://homesteadandchill.com/diy-wire-berry-trellis/ https://homesteadandchill.com/diy-wire-berry-trellis/#respond Wed, 06 Sep 2023 16:46:32 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2066628 Come learn how to build a simple homemade wire berry trellis. Our sturdy DIY berry trellis design is perfect to support raspberries, blackberries, or any other caneberry. Video and step-by-step instructions included!

The post DIY Berry Trellis: How to Build a Wire Raspberry or Blackberry Trellis (Video) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
Are you growing caneberries and looking for a way to support them? Right on! Come along and learn how to build a sturdy DIY berry trellis system. Our simple homemade berry trellis design works to trellis raspberry, blackberry, boysenberry, loganberry, marionberry, olallieberry, or any other type of vining caneberry plants. 

This tutorial will walk you through all the supplies and step-by-step process to build a wire berry trellis – photos and video included. We used wood along with metal fence t-posts for our berry trellis design, though I’ll also provide alternate options if you’d like to bury wood posts in the ground instead. Last but not least, we’ll briefly cover how to train and prune raspberries and blackberries too!



The Benefits of Trellising Raspberries and Blackberries


Some gardeners may wonder, do blackberries and raspberries need a trellis? While not required, a berry trellis will help keep raspberry and blackberry vines more tidy, manageable, easier to prune and harvest. So, I highly recommend growing these berries on a trellis system!

Blackberries and raspberries are both considered caneberries – where they grow long canes or vines from a crown just below the soil. If left to grow without support or some type of trellis system, blackberry and raspberry vines will naturally flop and sprawl all over. Blackberries in particular will turn into big brambling bushes. If you’re growing thorny caneberry varieties, that can make them even more difficult to access, maintain, or harvest fruit from.


We made three DIY berry trellises: raspberries on the left, ollalieberries in the middle, blackberries on the right.
Using a wire trellis system helps keeps our berry beds much more tidy and manageable. Use code “deannacat3” to save 5% on high-quality Birdies raised beds here. They’re the best metal raised bed kits on the market!


Best Blackberry or Raspberry Trellis Height and Dimensions


Most raspberry canes grow at least 5 feet tall, and blackberry vines grow even taller! So, it’s best to build a berry trellis that is about 5 or 6 feet tall. Also plan to build your berry trellis about a foot wider than the garden bed or berry patch where they’re growing. 

Our berry trellis design has four horizontal wire supports that run the length of the berry patch (two on each side). The lowest wire is about 3 feet above the soil level, with the upper wire at 5 feet tall. This way, you can tuck the blackberry or raspberry vines up between the rows of wire as they grow taller. See photo below.

If you happen to be growing shorter varieties of raspberries, consider lowering the horizontal supports and wires slightly from our design (e.g. the lower one at 2 or 2.5 above the ground, and the highest one at 4 feet tall).



Now, let’s go build a berry trellis, shall we? Here is the video tutorial, with the supplies list, written instructions and more photos below.




Supplies Needed


  • Two vertical wood posts (one on each end) such as 2×4’s or 4×4’s. They should be tall enough to extend 5 to 6 feet above the soil level once installed. Plan accordingly if you’re growing in raised beds, or want to bury the posts in the ground (e.g. start with 8 foot posts and bury 2 feet).

  • Four horizontal supports (two per end) such as 2x2s or 2x4s. We used this rough cut 2×2 redwood lumber. The top bar should be about a foot wider than your berry bed, and the lower bar about 6” narrower than the top. For example, our berry beds are 24” wide, so the tap bars are 36” wide and the bottom bars are 30”.

  • Screws, to connect the horizontal bars to the main wood posts. We used 2.5-inch exterior wood screws in our berry trellis design.
  • Hooks (4 per end, or 8 total per trellis) to connect the wire to the horizontal bars. We used screw eye hooks like these.

  • Wire (10 to 12 gauge is best), durable twine, or woven wire rope/cable. We used 1/16” gauge galvanized steel wire cable, which requires a few extra supplies (list below). To determine the length of wire needed, figure out how far apart your trellis ends will be, and then multiply by four. There will be two lines of wire running the length of your berry bed on each side.

  • Optional: wood glue, to strengthen connection between post and horizontal bars
  • Optional: Turnbuckle tension tighteners, so you can tighten or even completely unhook the berry trellis wire as needed. You could put a turnbuckle at each end of every wire (8 per trellis); we chose to add them at just one end of each wire (4 per trellis).

  • Drill and saw as needed

  • Reusable soft garden wire ties




Berry trellis wire kits


Looking for berry trellis supplies? This handy wire trellis kit comes with 50 feet of stainless steel wire cable, 8 ferrules, 4 hooks, and 2 turnbuckles. (To follow our berry trellis design you’d still need to get 4 additional hooks and 2 more turnbuckles). Or, this larger trellis kit includes 100 feet of wire, 14 ferrules, 10 hooks, and 5 turnbuckles – everything you’d need to build a berry trellis!


Supplies for T-Post Option


If you’d like to make your DIY berry trellis with fence t-posts like we did, you’ll need:

  • One 6 foot t-post at each end of the trellis. 
  • A post driver is really helpful to set them in the ground. 
  • You’ll also need these vertical t-post brackets and screws to connect the wood post to the t-post (also available in 6 packs). We used 1.25″ wood screws to secure the 2×4’s to the brackets.
  • Two adjustable 5-inch pipe hose clamps (one for the bottom of each trellis end) – which will fit around the t-post and 2×4”. You’ll need a larger pipe clamp if using larger wood.



Supplies for Wire Cable




Notes for Using 4×4’s vs T-Posts


We chose to use metal fence t-posts to support the ends of our berry trellis. They’re sturdy, easy to install, and we also had a few leftover from another project. Even more, wanted to minimize digging around the berry beds because we installed hardware cloth on the ground below/around all the beds for gopher prevention. The wood posts we connected to t-posts do not go down in the ground.

To set 4×4 posts in the ground instead, plan to dig it at least two feet into the ground, and pack gravel, soil, and/or concrete firmly around it. Or, we often use these cinder block piers to help securely set wood posts in our loose sandy soil. 

Because we used metal fence t-post in our DIY berry trellis design, we built the trellis end wood supports on our patio first, and then attached them to the t-posts mostly assembled. However, if you’re going to set 4×4 posts in the ground, you may want to do that first and then connect the horizontal bars, hooks, wires, etc. 


Setting the t-posts. Look at how much the just-planted blackberries were already sprawling out.
Cutting a hole where the t-posts will go. Hardware cloth (gopher protection) and burlap (weed suppression) runs under our entire berry patch.
Though it isn’t exactly “DIY”, another option is to use these pre-made raspberry trellis posts. Once installed 2 feet into the ground, they are the same dimension as our DIY berry trellis design.


Instructions to Build a DIY Berry Trellis: T-Posts, Wood, and Wire


Step 1: Build Berry Trellis Ends


  • Cut your wood to the dimensions needed for your berry bed. 
  • Use wood glue and screws to attach the two smaller horizontal wood pieces to the main vertical wood support. We squeezed a bit of wood glue between the wood, drilled pilot holes, then added 2 screws each.
  • Again, the top horizontal bar should be about 5 feet above the soil level, and the lower horizontal bar about 2 feet below that (or 3 feet above the ground) to trellis tall raspberry or blackberry vines. *Reduce height by a foot each for shorter raspberry varieties.*
  • Flip the trellis over, and add 1 eye hook to each end of the horizontal pieces, for a total of 4 hooks. (Pilot hole also recommended here)
  • Repeat the process for the second side of the berry trellis. 


After affixing the horizontal wood pieces, flip the whole thing over and add hooks on the other side
Ready to install in the berry patch!


Step 2:  Install T-Posts and Ends


  • Use a post driver to install a metal t-post at each end of your berry bed. Try to keep it as straight as possible. (OR, bury 4×4 posts at each end of the bed and connect horizontal supports as described above). 
  • If you’d like the wood facing out (to hide the t-posts) install the t-posts with the bumpy part facing in towards the berry bed.
  • Slip a vertical t-post bracket over the post, and lock into place on one of the top bumps.
  • Connect the pre-assembled wood berry trellis end to the t-post by screwing it to the bracket. Make sure the trellis eye hooks are facing in towards the berry bed!
  • At the bottom of each berry trellis end, add and tighten an adjustable pipe clamp around both the wood and t-post, securing them together.
  • Repeat to attach the second wood trellis end.


Rather than installing two brackets per post (which can sway or wiggle), using a pipe clamp at the bottom immobilizes the wood post and bracket against the t-post.


Step 3: Add Berry Trellis Wires


Now it’s time to string wire between the eye hooks on your DIY berry trellis. Again, you can simply run some basic 10 to 12 gauge wire from hook to hook, or follow the instructions below to use wire rope cable like we did in our berry trellis design:

  • Insert one end of the 1/16” wire cable into a 1/16” ferrule. Loop the wire through an eye hook on the trellis end, and then back into the ferrule. Use a crimping tool to pinch/crimp the ferrule, securing the cable wire to the hook. 
  • Run the wire down the length of the berry bed to the opposite end of the trellis. On this end, we added an optional turnbuckle. I started by loosening the turnbuckle almost all the way (so it can be tightened later), hooked it onto the trellis eye hook, then put the wire through the solid loop end of the turnbuckle. 
  • While pulling the wire tight, repeat the same process to secure the cable wire to the 2nd side of the trellis (to the turnbuckle) using a ferrule and crimping tool. 
  • Repeat for the remaining 3 wires in your DIY berry trellis.


On the second side, connect the wire directly to the loosened turnbuckle – but pull the wire nice and taught while doing so.


Ta-da! You just built a homemade raspberry trellis.


How to use a berry trellis: training raspberry and blackberry vines


Once the berry trellis is installed, it’s quite easy to use. Simply tuck the blackberry or raspberry vines up inside the wires as they grow. It’s easiest to do so before the berry vines get too long (and may break), so check and tuck them regularly. I definitely recommend wearing thorn-proof gloves when working with prickly berry vines!

I found that our blackberry and raspberry vines tend to slide along the berry trellis wires, especially on windy days. So, I secured some of the canes to the wire using soft reusable garden wire ties to help hold them in place, and it worked like a charm. You can also add small stakes to individual canes if needed.

Blackberry, raspberry, and other caneberry vines can also be pruned (topped) to control their height. Our raspberries are fairly short and manageable. However, we plan to top our olallieberry and blackberry vines once they’re a few feet taller than the trellis (keeping them no longer than 7 or 8 feet tall). The act of topping them will also make each cane branch more.  



Pruning Caneberries


Beyond topping the vines, the subject of how to grow and routinely prune blackberries and raspberries deserves a post of its own! Stay tuned for a dedicated article on that topic soon. 

In the meantime, here’s the quick and dirty for how to prune raspberries and blackberries: 

  • Each year when the vines are dormant (late fall to early spring), cut them back to the ground – but leave about 8 to 12 raspberry canes and 5 to 8 blackberry canes per plant.
  • The canes you choose to leave or remove depends on the variety of caneberry you’re growing. 
  • For June-bearing raspberry or blackberry varieties (aka primocane), cut away the two year old vines that already fruited the previous year, leaving just the freshed canes that grew the past year. 
  • For everbearing raspberries and blackberries (aka floricane), only cut back three year old canes – as the younger 1 and 2-year old canes will still bear fruit later. 
  • Some gardeners like to mark the canes with small ties or flags to help keep track. 
  • Because they require different pruning techniques, it’s best to grow everbearing and June-bearing caneberries in separate beds.


To make pruning easier, we have two varieties of primocane raspberries in one bed, two varieties of floricane blackberries in another bed, and ollalieberries in the middle bed.


And that concludes this lesson on how to build a sturdy DIY berry trellis.


Well folks, I sure hope that was useful – and helps you feel empowered and prepared to go make a berry trellis of your own! If so, please spread the love by sharing or pinning this post. Please also feel free to ask any questions or simply say hello in the comments below. We truly appreciate you tuning in today. Happy berry growing… and eating!


Don’t miss these related posts:



The post DIY Berry Trellis: How to Build a Wire Raspberry or Blackberry Trellis (Video) appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
https://homesteadandchill.com/diy-wire-berry-trellis/feed/ 0 2066628
Summer Garden Tour and Homestead Update (Video): July 2023 https://homesteadandchill.com/summer-garden-homestead-tour-2023/ https://homesteadandchill.com/summer-garden-homestead-tour-2023/#comments Tue, 25 Jul 2023 14:17:31 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2061938 Come along for a garden tour video of our summer raised bed garden, including tips and ideas on our favorite summer garden vegetables, annual flower varieties, and more. We've also made some fun homestead updates, including a new berry patch, chicken run expansion, and pollinator fruit tree orchard! Plenty of garden inspo ideas and photos included.

The post Summer Garden Tour and Homestead Update (Video): July 2023 appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
Welcome! It’s been awhile since we explored the garden together, so let’s do just that! In this post, you’ll find a fresh garden and homestead tour video that highlights what we currently have growing in our summer raised bed garden – including our favorite flower and veggie varieties. I’m also excited to share a few fun updates we’ve made to other parts of the homestead, including a new cane berry patch, chicken run expansion, and beautiful new pollinator orchard on a hill.

So, come wander around and see what’s growing! I’ll share plenty of fun tidbits and tips along the way, plus a little sprinkle of bird nerd action. Last but not least, I’ve included a smattering of my favorite photos of the garden this season below. I love putting these together as a photo-journal for our own reflection, and hope you enjoy taking a peek as well!



Hey! I’m excited to share some of my favorite photos, varieties, and harvests in the main raised bed garden below – but first, let’s have a quick peek at one new project!


The New Berry Patch


One small change we made on the homestead this spring was to create a dedicated space to grow cane berries, including blackberries, raspberries, and ollalieberries (a classic here on the Central Coast of California) – each in their own bed.

Since gophers prevent us from growing directly in the ground, we opted to use Birdies metal raised bed kits for this project and absolutely love them! They’re really high quality, durable, and were a breeze to put together. If you’re interested, code ‘deannacat3’ will save 5% off Birdies raised beds here. We added hardware cloth below for gopher protection, a thick layer of burlap for weed suppression, and finished it off with fresh wood chips and a steel border all around. Up next: build a berry trellis support system!


This was previously just a weedy, unused spot. We were excited to spiff it up for much better use!
Inspector Badger approved.


Summer in the Raised Bed Garden


After a record-breaking wet winter and gloomiest, greyest spring ever, our summer garden got off to a pretty slow start this year. But, she’s booming and blooming now! We’ve been harvesting ample beans, zucchini, leafy greens, carrots, beets, cabbage, basil, and other goodies we planted in late winter to early spring. Not to mention all the stunning companion flowers that are going off! We have yet to harvest any tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, or other warm-weather lovers though.

For a complete list of all the vegetable and flower varieties we planted this spring/summer, see this post. I’ll also link related seeds, grow guides, and other resources in captions of each photo!


Sunset in the garden. Pole beans and snap peas growing up the trellises, though the peas were removed shortly after this photo was taken (they had a lot of powdery mildew and were just about done producing).
After harvesting over 40 artichokes this spring, we decided to leave several to flower for the bees! They have such gorgeous blooms.
This volunteer sunflower (self-seeded, unknown variety) is currently blowing my mind. It’s at least 10 feet tall!
Another gorgeous sunset. The cheery poof of orange is a tangerine gem marigold. We planted several colors of gem marigolds around the garden this year!
I planted more companion flowers than ever this season… and have zero regrets! The various cosmos, gem marigolds, Goldy Double sunflowers and Black Beauty poppies have been especially impressive thus far.
Golden hour glow. We loved using these A-frame trellises off the end of our beds for cucumbers last year, so we did the same with winter squash, melons AND cukes this season.
A July harvest of summer squash, cucumber, beans, carrots, beets, figs, herbs, swiss chard, lettuce, a few berries, and lots of chamomile. (Related grow guides linked)
Playing with the drone
A peek under the Swiss Chard forest
Harvesting carrots is so rewarding! Come watch me harvest these big beauties here, and then learn how to successfully grow your own carrots in this seed-to-table guide.
The chamomile bed was so full and lush this spring – early summer. It’s fading now so we’ll plant another round.
Since we use chamomile and calendula to make organic skincare products for our shop, we grow ALOT. It takes hours to harvest from all the plants several times per week!
Our newest product: chamomile and calendula infused face oil, made with cold-pressed organic jojoba oil. It absorbs really well (not “greasy”) and is amazing for skin irritation, redness, eczema, scars, or general dry skin.
Those backlit Black Beauty poppies tho
You know I had to throw some quail in here! Handsome Mr. Daddy Quail on watch duty.
Baby quail lounging in our new pollinator orchard while mama stands guard. We’ve counted over SIXTY baby quail (5 different groups) so far this season, and I think more just hatched!
The tomatoes are definitely getting a slow start this year, but we harvested the first couple the other day! Still loving our DIY tomato trellis system.
A few early season fruits: figs (honey delight), berries, and our very first Santa Rosa plums!
Red amaranth is fun and new-to-us this season. We’re growing it mostly as an ornamental, and assume the birds will enjoy eating the seeds!
I forgot to take more photos of it, but you can see the fencing for the expanded chicken run area in the background. Now they can hang much closer to us while we’re in the garden, but still have protection from hawks from the trees overhead.
Pole beans, artichokes, snap peas, and chive blossoms.
If you grow chives, you’ve gotta try homemade chive blossom vinegar! It’s so tasty and gorgeous. We have been using it on loaded veggie sandwiches and in egg salad for the last couple of months.
More Black Beauty poppies. Some have more simple, elegant petals while others are double floofy.
Pickin’ pole beans (I needed a stool, ha!). Northeaster is my favorite. They can get super long but stay tender!
The lavender we planted in 2021-22 is growing in with a vengeance! Learn how to grow, harvest, dry and use lavender here.
Clean fountain for the birdies
Plucked a few dill flower heads to make the first easy crunchy refrigerator pickles of the season.
Badger also thinks the Black Beauty poppies are purdy.


The New Pollinator Orchard


A HUGE undertaking we accomplished this winter/spring was creating our new pollinator orchard over on “sandy hill”. We broke ground on the project in January, finished in April, and were able to add over a dozen new fruit trees plus hundreds of native and drought-tolerant plants for pollinators to an otherwise barren, weedy hill on the far side of our property. It has quickly become a thriving ecosystem already – full of native bees, butterflies, lizards, bunnies, quail families and more!

If you missed it, I shared a blogpost and YouTube video with a tour along with the step-by-step by process we took to transform the space: clearing the weeds, creating natural terraces or permaculture berms, using burlap as natural landscape fabric, planting trees, adding mulch, a solar powered drip irrigation system, and more! So, I’ll only share a couple of my favorite shots here.


Before, during, after.
The new orchard area is near the bottom of the photo. This was in April, just after we finished the project. Look how empty the raised bed garden looks then!
The California poppies went OFF this spring! 😍 


Thank you for coming along for the tour!


And that’s a wrap. I appreciate you tuning in for our summer garden tour and homestead update today. I hope it gave you plenty of ideas, inspiration and tips! Please feel free to ask any questions or just say hello in the comments below. See you next time!


You may also like:



The post Summer Garden Tour and Homestead Update (Video): July 2023 appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
https://homesteadandchill.com/summer-garden-homestead-tour-2023/feed/ 6 2061938
New Pollinator Orchard Garden on a Hill (Permaculture Berms Terraces)  https://homesteadandchill.com/pollinator-orchard-hill-permaculture-berms/ https://homesteadandchill.com/pollinator-orchard-hill-permaculture-berms/#comments Tue, 11 Jul 2023 19:51:46 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2061173 Welcome to our new orchard on a hill! Come see how we used natural terraces, permaculture berms, burlap, and pollinator companion plants to transform a barren weedy hillside to a thriving new garden space. Video included!

The post New Pollinator Orchard Garden on a Hill (Permaculture Berms Terraces)  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
Welcome to our new orchard and pollinator garden! Just a few months ago, this part of our property was nothing but a barren, weedy, sandy hillside. After terracing the hill with permaculture-style berms, it’s now full of love and life with fruit trees, California natives, and other drought-tolerant pollinator plants. This transformation has been one of our largest and most labor intensive projects yet, but one of my top favorites as well!

Come along to see how we transformed the space over several months. In this post, you’ll find a video tour of the new orchard on a hill that also includes footage of all the work we did to create it.

I’ve also included a written summary and plenty of photos to outline the steps we took to design the space, clear weeds, contour the land to make natural terraces or berms, use burlap as natural weed fabric, select fruit trees and other orchard companion plants, install a solar-powered irrigation system, add mulch, rock and steel borders, and more. Your bound to pick up plenty of useful tips along the way!


If you’re here from YouTube and looking for the full list of plants I promised, jump to the complete plant list here.


Here’s a little before-during-after shot to wet your whistle. We started working on this space in January, planted everything in April, and the bottom photo was taken in late June.


Video Tour and Transformation


Watch this video to see our new orchard on a hill, including all the work and steps we took to create it.



Location and Design


Our new orchard on a hill is located on the far side of our property on a sunny, south-facing slope. The previous owners used it as a goat and horse pasture, thus keeping the weeds in check. After being here a couple years now, invasive weeds grew back with a vengeance. We wanted to put the space to much better use – and grow some food!

With any new garden project, I always consider wildlife and pollinators too. My goal was to add plenty of native and drought-tolerant plants to offer food and habitat for them, as well as increase pollination and fruit production in the orchard for us! Plus, they look pretty darn beautiful too. 

I knew right away we’d need to figure out a way to terrace the hill. Terraces help create level areas that are more easy and comfortable to work and spend time in. Even more, the water runoff was quite significant on this hill! Especially paired with our super sandy native soil, which has terrible water absorption and retention. Terracing hills reduces water runoff and therefore increases the water absorption and availability to the plants growing on it!

At first, I contemplated bringing in a bunch of stone or blocks to build up rock wall terraces. Yet after terracing a much smaller area at our last property, I quickly realized that would be far too costly and laborious on this much larger scale, especially because we intended to do 100% of the work ourselves (and I’m not getting any younger over here)! So, we decided we’d try our hand at contouring the land and creating permaculture berms to terrace the hill instead. 


The top photo shows what the area looked like most of the year (super dry, tall dead weeds). We started the project in January during a rainy winter, so things were temporarily more green then… and less dusty, which actually improved working conditions.
My rough vision for the space


Site Prep


The first step in the orchard hill project was to clear the area of weeds – which we did entirely by hand, shovel, and rake. This stage took several weeks, working for a few hours and a couple days a week. We definitely could have brought in a tiller or tractor to make the work much faster (and easier), yet we wanted to avoid tilling and also pull up as much of the roots and seed heads as possible. Plus it was an extraordinarily rainy winter, so I enjoyed being outside and getting my hands in the soil whenever I could. 

After clearing the weeds, we played with math, stakes, and drew lines in the sand to plan and outline key features: where the berms, trees, and pathways may go. This enabled us to determine how many terraces to create, how wide each level would be, how many trees we could fit while still providing adequate space between them, and finalize other decisions before “breaking ground” and starting to terrace the hill. 


Aaron used an edging shovel to dig under and pop up the weeds (including the roots) and I went around after him to pick them up, shaking off excess soil as I went. The most common weed here is mullein, which has some interesting applications in herbalism, but is invasive nonetheless. There were also a few small native sagebrushes that we carefully relocated further up the hill.


Terracing the Hillside (Making Permaculture Berms)


Next, it was time to start forming the terraces and berms. Let’s back up and break this part down a bit:


What is a berm?


A berm is a natural or man-made mound of earth (usually made from compacted soil, rocks, and/or other natural material) to create a terrace or shelf, most often on a slope or hill.  In landscaping and permaculture, berms are used to contour the land, break up and add variation to a space, create planting zones, and most importantly, to divert water runoff in a more favorable way

Berms are often used in conjunction with swales, which are low depressions or shallow ditches that also help to facilitate improved drainage, water retention, and vegetation in an area. The middle of our terraces have a slight depression, and we also created one rock-lined swale to divert runoff from the steepest slope to a nearby tree. 


April. Freshly-made and planted berms. You can see a slight depression/swale near the trees (where Aaron is standing) where most of the water will infiltrate.
May. The same berm about a month later.
The same berms and plant growth by the end of June.
A rock-lined swale we created at the base of the steepest hill, re-directing water flow over to a nearby berm and fig tree rather than continuing down the path and hill.


Forming berms for our orchard hill


We created berms with a combination of native soil and bulk soil and compost we brought in. Adding higher-quality bulk soil and compost served two purposes: 1) to better help level and build up the berms (reducing the amount of native soil we had to move), and also 2) offer more nutrients and microbial life to the trees and plants that would grow here.

  • First, we used sturdy 36″ wide landscape rakes to scrape and dig into the uphill side of each terrace, pulling the native soil downhill several feet to both level the space and form the berm below. Again, our native soil is super sandy so it was possible to do this with rakes and muscle power alone, though different tools (e..g shovels, backhoe) may be required for different soil types.

  • We started at the top of the hill, forming the shape of the top terraces and berms first. Then we moved down to the next terrace, where we cut and dug into the base of the berm above, pulled back the soil, and repeated the process moving downhill. See photos below.

  • Once we created the rough terraced berms with native soil alone, we brought in bulk soil and compost to augment them. We dumped loads throughout every terrace, and then used the same wide landscape rakes to spread and smooth it out – focusing the majority of the material on the top and face of the berms. 

Using landscape rakes to loosen and pull soil from uphill to mound up downhill, one level at at time. We were actually thankful we had so much rain that winter, which helped the sandy soil hold form better than if it were totally dry.
The progress of forming berms with native soil alone, until it was time to bring in bulk soil and compost to beef them up.
It really started to take shape after adding bulk soil and compost!
Spreading most of the bulk material on the front side of the terraces and berms.
We added about a 2″ layer to the lower flat area too, just to give the plants a little extra organic matter and nutrients.



Helping the berms hold shape


When making natural terraces or berms, there is always a small risk that they could shift or settle with time – and even more so on a slope. I was definitely concerned about this, especially since our native soil is so soft and sandy. So, we did a few things to help our berms hold shape:

  • After building up the berms with bulk soil and compost, we gently compacted the soil by laying down plywood and lightly stamping on it. (The soil was far too soft to use a traditional tamper, the edges of the berms would have just collapsed). 

  • We covered the entire orchard space with burlap (explained more below), including an extra layer on the face of the berms. The burlap is tucked tight against the front of the terraces, hugging and holding the soil in place until the plant roots grow in. 
  • Next we planted dozens of low-growing, trailing plants along the front face of the berms along with several shrubs and trees on top. As the plants grow in, their roots will really help to stabilize the soil. 
  • Finally, the addition of mulch will help the berms stay more moist, encourage plant root expansion, and further support the terrace structure. We’ll also avoid walking on the berm edges until they become more established. 

To help everything hold shape, we walked around on top of this plywood to lightly compact the edge of the berms across the entire terrace.
Burlap will also help the berms hold shape until the plant roots grow in to stabilize them.
After planting.
A couple months later. I intentionally planted quite densely on the berm faces so the mass of plant foliage and roots will support the berms once the burlap eventually biodegrades.


Burlap Ground Cover 


After forming the terraces and berms, we immediately covered them in burlap – especially because it kept raining on us, and I was afraid all our hard work was going to wash away! We chose to use untreated burlap as a natural alternative to traditional weed barrier fabric in this project. 

Burlap is biodegradable and will break down within a year or two, feeding the soil organic matter as it does. So while it won’t offer long-lasting weed protection, it will be enough to help smother the weeds for the first season or two, plus help support the berm structure until the plants get established. Burlap also acts like mulch (which we added on top later) and helps with runoff and water retention too. 

Originally, we ordered several long rolls of natural untreated burlap (similar to this burlap but even wider) from a local landscape supplier. The shipment kept getting delayed, and delayed… and eventually we were told it was lost in transit. With significant rainstorms on the horizon and sandy soil sloughing more every day, we changed plans and decided to use burlap squares we could readily source locally instead. You may also be able to find burlap coffee sacks (for free!) from local coffee roasters, which are ideal for smaller projects. 

The burlap we ended up using was a bit thinner than the rolls we’d hoped for, so we laid down two layers across the entire orchard area, and four layers (two squares, folded in half) across the front face of the berms. The burlap is held in place with 6″ galvanized landscape staples.


Taking a break. My back was pretty angry by this point in the project!
After covering the lower area in burlap too, and adding the moongate trellis.


Fruit Tree Variety Selection


Believe it or not, narrowing down (and locating) our selection of fruit tree varieties was one of the more difficult tasks of this entire project! I feel like every time I settled on a “final” list of varieties, we either couldn’t find a certain one or I found something even more tantalizing (which then threw off the pollinator partner varieties I’d selected too). I also really wanted some almond trees, but ultimately accepted they’re not known to do well in our area. 

When considering fruit tree varieties for your garden, there are so many things to consider. In addition to sounding tasty, it’s important to choose varieties that are compatible with your growing zone and chill hour requirements, tree size and spacing needs, and also if they need another variety for cross-pollination to produce a respectable crop. Learn more about choosing the best fruit trees for your climate here, or dive into this lesson all about fruit tree chill hours. 



Here on the Central Coast of California (San Luis Obispo county, zone 9, about 400-500 chill hours) the fruit trees varieties we chose for orchard hill include:



We were able to source all of our trees from a handful of local nurseries, with the exception of the Desert King Fig (my fave), which we got online from Nature Hills Nursery. We were honestly thrilled at the quality and condition of the tree when it arrived! Fast Growing Trees is another excellent reputable online tree supplier.



Other Edibles


In addition to the fruit trees, we also planted several pineapple guavas, blueberries (Emerald, Jewel, and Sunshine Blue), and kiwis in the new orchard hill space. Fuzzy kiwis have male and female plants, and both are required to set fruit. So, we planted two females (Saanichton and Vincent) up our gorgeous moongate trellis, and a Tomori male kiwi along a nearby fence for pollination. In other parts of the property, we also have plums, limes, lemons, oranges, pomegranates, apricots, grapes, and several more fig, peach, and apple trees. 

See related grow guides for figs, avocados, and pineapple guava here.


Fuzzy kiwi planted up each side of the Gracie moongate arbor


Planting Fruit Trees


Learn best practices for planting fruit trees in this comprehensive guide. In summary, dig a hole that is about twice as wide but only as deep as the existing root ball or pot. Maintain the top of the rootball and root collar at or just above the surrounding soil level when planting, and never bury a tree trunk or pile mulch up around it! It’s best to backfill the planting hole with mostly native soil, though we do also like to add some higher quality soil and well-aged compost as well. Do not fertilize at the time of planting. 

It’s best to space fruit trees at least 10 feet apart (e.g. smaller varieties or those that will be kept pruned) and up to 20 feet for larger varieties. Maintaining about 12 to 15 feet between them, we were able to fit 9 fruit trees on the terraced portion of orchard hill, along with several more off to the side and along the lower fence line. We planted the fruit trees closer to the berms and left a wider pathway behind them on the more flat portion of the terraces. 

Gophers are rampant in this area, so we have to plant every tree in a large durable gopher basket to protect the root ball. Learn how to make a DIY gopher cage from hardware cloth here, or buy sturdy gopher baskets here. I also put together this list of over 50 gopher-resistant plants for California and beyond.


Before laying down the burlap on top of the terraces, we used a broad fork and shovel to mix in the higher-quality bulk soil and compost in a 4 foot diameter around where each tree would be planted.
Planting the first tree – a Pink Lady apple.


Orchard Companion Plants and Pollinators


Next up: it was time to plant all the beautiful native and drought-tolerant pollinator plants. California poppies, rosemary, rock rose, catmint, lavender, sea daisies, CA buckwheat, fuchsia, comfrey, and more! We also scattered California native wildflower seeds in the open fields around the perimeter or the orchard. See the complete list of orchard companion plants below. 

Honestly, planting these was one of the most physically taxing jobs from the entire orchard hill project, but also SO rewarding to see once they were all in the ground! We chose to plant them after the burlap went down – so the soil and berms would hold in place, and so we wouldn’t have to try to tuck burlap all between them after the fact. It was easy to cut holes in the burlap where needed. I also came up with a super handy hack for planting on a slope to prevent the holes from collapsing! Check it out below.


When planting on the face of the berms/slope, I knew the loose soil would want to cave in on me. So I cut an old plastic pot in half (and removed the bottom) to create a brace to hold the planting hole open as I worked. After cutting a hole in the burlap (I cut an X and tuck the flaps under), I was able to insert it into the hill at a slight downward angle, push the soil down and aside to make a planting hole, insert the rootball, pull out the brace, and pack extra soil around as needed.


Comfrey in a Permaculture Orchard


Comfrey is a fantastic multi-purpose companion plant in a permaculture orchard. So much so, it deserves its own little spotlight here! Comfrey is known as a “dynamic accumulator”. With its deep taproot, comfrey is exceptional at drawing up nutrients from the soil and storing them in its tissues. 

We plan to use comfrey for “chop and drop mulch”. Once or twice a year, we will cut the comfrey back, chop it up in small pieces, and use it as green mulch around the base of the trees – where those concentrated nutrients will return to the soil and feed the fruit trees. Even more, comfrey can be used in herbal medicine and topical healing salves, to make nutrient-rich fertilizer teas, and native bumblebees absolutely love the flowers!

NOTE: Readily spreading by seed, common comfrey is considered invasive in many environments. We grow Russian Bocking 14 comfrey instead. Many permaculturists consider Russian Bocking 14 the best orchard companion variety because it grows very robustly but isn’t invasive. The seeds are sterile, so it can only be planted from rhizomes.


We planted four clumps of comfrey between trees throughout orchard hill. One “clump” = a group of three rhizomes, spaced about a foot apart each.
A nice patch of comfrey, which we’ll need to cut back and use as mulch soon!
Badger loves to nap under the large comfrey leaves


Complete Plant List


In addition to the edibles and fruit trees (listed above), here is a complete list of the other companion plants we chose for the orchard hill space:


Common Name and VarietySpecies
Aloe Vera – CoralAloe striata 
Blue fescue – Tomales BayFesuca idahoensis*
Blue fescue – Elijah blueFestuca glauca
Bush monkeyflower – EleanorMimulus x aurantiacus ‘Eleanor’*
Bush monkeyflower – Vibrant RedDiplacus aurantiacus var. puniceus*
California poppiesEschscholzia californica*
CA Red BuckwheatEriogonum grande rubescens*
CA Fuchsia – Sierra SalmonEpilobium (Zauschneria)*
Catmint – Nepta Walker’s LowNepeta x faassenii
Ceanothus – Yankee PointCeanothus griseus var. horizontalis*
Ceanothus – Ray HartmanCeanothus arboreus X Ceanothus griseus*
Ceanothus – ConchaCeanothus impressus x papillosus var. roweanus*
Comfrey – Russian Bocking 14Symphytum x uplandicum ‘Bocking 14’
Gold Coin DaisyAsteriscus maritimus
Lavender FrenchLavandula dentata
Lavender – PinnataLavandula pinnata buchii
Lavendula – Goodwin CreekLavandula x ginginsii
Lavender Spanish – PrimaveraLavandula stoechas
Lavender Spanish – Blueberry RufflesLavandula stoechas
Lithodora – Grace Ward diffusaLithodora diffusa
Penstemon – Foothill Penstemon heterophyllus*
Penstemon – Margarita BOPPenstemon heterophyllus*
Rock rose – Silver PinkCistus x argenteus ‘Silver Pink’
Rock rose – PurpleCistus Purpureus
Rock rose – Henfield brilliantHelianthemum
Rock rose – Hartswood RubyHelianthemum
Rock rose – Fire DragonHelianthemum
Rock rose – The BrideHelianthemum
Rosemary – trailing culinaryRosmarinus officinalis Prostratus
Rosemary – upright, BBQ and PinkRosmarinus officinalis
Salvia – Hummingbird SageSalvia spathacea*
Salvia – Big RedSalvia pentstemonoides
Salvia – Smoky LavenderSalvia greggii 
Scabiosa – Vivid VioletScabiosa columbaria
Seaside Daisy (Beach Aster)Erigeron W.R.*
Sea daisies – Santa BarbaraErigeron karvinskianus
ThymeSilver, English, and Red Creeping
Verbena – De la MinaVerbena lilacina*
Verbena – Homestead PurpleVerbena canadensis
Yarrow – Mini moonshineAchillea millefolium
Misc AnnualsCosmos, Bachelors Buttons
* denotes California native species

California Red Flowering Buckwheat
Red creeping thyme and Santa Barbara sea daisies make a great pollinator-friendly ground cover!
California poppies, catmint and rock rose
Sea daisies


Drip Irrigation System


And now one of the most essential elements: water! During the time we were working on contouring the land, we were also working on installing a drip irrigation system on the side. That included tapping into the main water line at the top of the hill, installing a 4-station valve manifold, a solar powered control panel, PVC lines down to the site, and then a 4-zone drip irrigation system weaving about the entire space. I put together a separate post and video tutorial on that process – check it out here.  We did this before mulch went down, and then covered the lines in mulch.


Four irrigation zones water the area: one for the trees, one for the berm shrubs, one to the lower flat pollinator area, and another along the far fenceline of trees and shrubs. It’s best to group plants with similar water needs into separate zones, and to reduce the demand on each zone to maintain better pressure!
We’ve done a lot of irrigation work in the past, but this was my first time building and installing an automatic valve manifold. I was feeling proud, and love the solar power component! See the full irrigation tutorial here.
Putting the emitters just above the plants on the top of the berms will help keep the berms moist and encourage the roots to grow back into them.


Mulch


Mulch is an essential part of an organic garden and landscaping. It offers numerous benefits including suppressing weeds, reducing runoff, improving soil’s organic matter and moisture retention (and thereby reducing water needs) and insulating plant roots against temperature extremes. It also makes the landscape look polished and sharp – like the final cherry on top! 

For the orchard hill project, we chose to use a “walk on bark” (sourced locally in bulk) that is like a blend of irregular shredded wood chips and chunkier bark bits. It is longer-lasting than shredded mulch (like gorilla hair) but holds in place better than classic bark mulch, especially on the slopes. We opted to not use local tree wood chips or “chip drop” for this project, just to be extra cautious as to not introduce any tree diseases to the orchard.

After planting all the plants, we spread mulch about three inches thick around the entire space, with the exception around the base of trees. It’s best to avoid piling mulch up right around a tree trunk, so leave a couple feet of clear space around it.  We plan to refresh and top it off with more mulch as needed every few years. Read the pros and cons of 8 common types of mulch here.


Bulk delivery of walk-on bark mulch, which we loaded with pitchforks into the UTV
Backed up the UTV as close as possible, dumped into wheelbarrows, then spread mulch throughout the site with landscape rakes.
Just after the last load of mulch went down


Rock & Steel Borders


Though we opted to not build rock wall terraces, I still wanted to bring in some landscaping rocks to add dimension and further define the space. We added a row of large cobbles to top of each berm, which also helps us keep track of where the irrigation lines are and prevents us from stepping on the edge of the berm. The rocks also provide ideal habitat for western fence lizards, who help keep the insect population in check too!

We also installed steel edging along the uphill and outer edge of the orchard hill space. The edging will hold in mulch, help keep weeds out (like the creeping invasive ice plant), and also stop water runoff – forcing it to infiltrate along the uppermost terrace instead. We like to use the hammer-in corten steel edging from Edge Right. We used the same edging around our raised bed garden project too.


I think I did about 9373542 squats laying all these rocks.
Happy Western Fence Lizard in their new habitat
The rocks also give us a nice visual reminder to not to step right on the edge of the berms.
Steel edging runs along the uphill and far side of the new space


The Finished Space + Before-and-Afters


Now it’s time to sit back, relax, and watch the space grow. Well, there will be a tad more maintenance and upkeep to come (pruning, deadheading, fertilizing, refreshing mulch…) but it sure feels good to have all of the heavy lifting done!

The California poppies really stole the show this spring
We created a nice little sit spot under the oak at the top of the hill, overlooking the orchard below.
Badger spends much of his time lounging in the new orchard


Thank you for touring our new orchard on a hill!


Ooof! I told you this was one of our largest projects ever. I realize that was a lot of information to digest, and many the things we did may not exactly apply to other sites or climates. Yet I hope this gave you plenty of fun ideas and useful tips nonetheless! Please feel free to ask any questions or just say hello in the comments below. I really appreciate you tuning in today!


You may also like:



The post New Pollinator Orchard Garden on a Hill (Permaculture Berms Terraces)  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
https://homesteadandchill.com/pollinator-orchard-hill-permaculture-berms/feed/ 22 2061173
Homemade Beer Traps: Get Rid of Slugs, Pillbugs and More https://homesteadandchill.com/homemade-slug-beer-traps/ https://homesteadandchill.com/homemade-slug-beer-traps/#respond Tue, 04 Jul 2023 21:17:14 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060952 Got slugs? Come learn how to make DIY beer traps to attract and kill slugs, snails, pill bugs and more. Homemade beer traps are a cheap, easy and effective way to control slug populations in the garden. They really do work!

The post Homemade Beer Traps: Get Rid of Slugs, Pillbugs and More appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
Got slugs? Come learn how to make DIY beer traps to attract and kill slugs, snails, pill bugs and more. Homemade beer traps are a cheap, easy and effective way to control slug populations in the garden when necessary. They really do work!

As organic gardeners, we’re never on a mission to outright eradicate anything. Nor should a garden be “perfect”, free of pests or occasional plant damage! Yet following an unusually extra-wet winter, our garden has been overrun with more slugs than ever this spring. So in an effort to reduce their population, protect our plants from further damage, and avoid the use of chemical slug bait, we set up a few slug beer traps instead.



Why do slugs like beer? How do beer traps work? 


Because slugs like to party! Just kidding. Slugs are attracted to beer primarily because of the sweet, fermented yeasty aroma. That said, other forms of fermented yeast may attract slugs too, including watered-down sourdough starter! (Yes, we tried it, and it works quite well.)

Beer traps work by luring in slugs, and as they enter and drink the beer, they become intoxicated, can’t get back out, and drown. One limitation is that beer traps typically only attract slugs within the immediate vicinity, or about 3 feet away. Therefore, you may need to use several traps throughout the garden or a couple per garden bed. 


A can of beer sitting next to an empty can of cat food on the edge of a raised garden bed. Squash, poppies, marigolds, and cosmos are growing inside the bed. An image of a slug has been superimposed on the edge of the garden bed.
Why didn’t the snail go to the slug’s party?
Because he couldn’t get out of his shell.
A hand is holding a slug beer trap what used sourdough discard instead of beer. It is full of slugs as they were very enticed by the yeasty sourdough starter. The background is a marigold plant that is in full bloom.
A slug trap baited with sourdough starter instead. I simply mixed a spoonful of starter discard with some water in the can, and got about a dozen slugs within 24 hours!


What other pests are attracted to beer traps?


In addition to slugs, beer traps attract a number of other garden pests including pill bugs (rollie pollies), snails, earwigs (pincher bugs), and cutworms. We often find a variety of insects in our beer traps – but thankfully never any bees, ladybugs, lacewings, or other “good guys”. Larger critters may also be attracted to the beer however. On occasion, our beer traps have been relocated and licked clean (including the slugs being eaten) by what we suspect is a raccoon or maybe an opossum. 


Are pill bugs bad in the garden?


Not necessarily! Pill bugs or rollie pollies are not usually bad in the garden. They primarily eat decaying matter, which actually helps improve organic matter and nutrient cycling in the soil. However, if there is a robust enough population of pill bugs and not enough other food sources, they can quickly become pests and turn to eating garden plants.

Pill bugs are especially attracted to ripe fruit, tender new seedlings and sprouts. That can be very frustrating, so we’ve used beer traps for rollie pollies when necessary too. Leaving a few unwanted leaves or bits of produce lying on the soil (e.g. melon rinds) can also give rollie pollies something to munch on – besides your plants!


A close up image of a slug on top of a strawberry plant leaf.
Get off my strawberries, bro


What’s the best beer for slug traps?


Slugs and snails are not too picky about their beer. Any beer can work in a trap, though slugs seem especially drawn to light, yeasty beers like lagers, pilsners, hefeweizen, or blonde ales. Plus, slugs are a cheap date – no need to give them your premium brews!


What kind of container is best to make a beer trap?


You can make a slug beer trap out of any kind of upcycled container – as long as it has a wide opening and can hold a couple inches of beer inside. Most gardeners use wide shallow containers, though I’ve seen some beer traps that are more narrow and deep too (like a water bottle).  

Save and rinse out cat food cans, dog food cans, or tuna cans work great! Other ideas include plastic food storage (tupperware) containers, aluminum pie pans, used cottage cheese, yogurt, margarine, or sour cream tubs, cut water bottles, plastic cups, or similar. I’m sure you already have something on hand!


A slug beer trap that contains an array of garden pest insects, slugs, pincher bugs, and a cut worm are floating in the beer.
Old cat food cans work great for slug beer traps! This one caught about 8 slugs, a cutworm, and a couple pincher bugs within 12 hours.
A four way image collage, the first image shows a beer being poured into a green container that is buried in the sand. The next image shows a hand putting a green lid on the green container. The third image shows the inside of the container and it is full of slugs, the fourth image shows a closer up view of the insects inside.
Another option is to buy these handy specialized snail and slug traps – bury and add beer!


How to Make a Slug Beer Trap


Instructions


  1. Partially bury the beer trap so the top rim of the container is about level with the surrounding soil – especially if your container is tall or has a curved rim. That way, slugs or pillbugs can crawl and fall right in the top. This is especially important if your goal is to trap rollie pollies. We haven’t found it necessary to trap slugs with cat food cans though. We set the cans right on top of soil or gravel, and the slugs easily crawl up the short straight sides and into the trap. 

  2. Fill the trap about one-third to half full with beer, depending on the size of the container. Add at least an inch of beer in the bottom of the trap (up to 2 or 3 inches), but there’s no need to waste beer by filling a large trap with more than that. Also don’t fill the trap all the way to the top of the container, which makes it too easy to crawl back out.

  3. Tuck the beer trap in the shade under slug-prone plants like lettuce, strawberries, or other areas with a lot of slug activity. Hint: look for shiny slug trails and place the beer traps nearby! Remember, beer traps will only draw in slugs, snails and pillbugs that are fairly close by (within 3 feet) so make several beer traps throughout the garden as needed.

  4. For the best results, dump the slug beer trap contents, rinse, and refresh the container with fresh beer every couple of days. Warning: they do tend to get pretty stinky after a few days. Also keep in mind the beer will evaporate more quickly in hot conditions, so you’ll want to make the beer a tad deeper initially or refresh it more often.


A four way image collage of how to make a slug beer trap. The first image shows and empty cat food can next to a can of beer. The second image shows the can buried into soil so the lip of the can is level with the soil line, a can of beer is being poured into the empty cat food can. The third image shows the can buried in soil, partially full of yellow beer. The fourth image shows the trap after a day or so and it is full of pill bugs.
A beer trap full of pill bugs


And that’s how to make beer traps for slugs, pill bugs, and more.


Well folks, I hope this tip helps you control pests and minimize plant damage in your garden. If needed, you can also browse 10 organic ways to control slugs and snails here. Please consider sharing this post of leave a rating below if you found it useful! Now go crack open a brew and pour one out for the slug homies. Cheers!


Don’t miss these related organic pest control articles:


Print

Homemade Slug Beer Trap (Pill Bugs or Rollie Pollies)

Got slugs? Come learn how to make DIY beer traps to attract and kill slugs, snails, pill bugs and more. Homemade beer traps are a cheap, easy and effective way to control slug populations in the garden when necessary. They really do work!
Keyword beer trap pill bugs, garden beer trap, slug beer trap, snail beer trap
Prep Time 5 minutes

Equipment

  • wide shallow container (examples: cat food or tuna cans, tupperware container, plastic cup, cottage cheese or yogurt container, aluminum pie pan)

Ingredients

  • beer (light yeasty beer preferred, such as lager, pilsner, or blonde ales)
  • or sourdough starter (mixed with water)

Instructions

  • Choose a location with snail, slug or pillbug activity. Put the trap in the shade under plants if possible.
  • Partially bury the trap container, so the rim is about level with (or just above) the surrounding soil level.
  • Fill the container with 1-3 inches of beer, or about 1/3 to 1/2 full (depending on depth of the container) but not completely full. OR, mix a large spoonful of sourdough starter with water instead of beer.
  • Beer traps will only draw in slugs, snails and pill bugs that are fairly close by (within 3 feet) so make several beer traps throughout the garden as needed.
  • Dump the slug beer trap contents, rinse, and refresh the container with fresh beer every couple of days. (Keep in mind the beer will evaporate more quickly in hot conditions, so you’ll want to make the beer a tad deeper initially or refresh it more often.)



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

The post Homemade Beer Traps: Get Rid of Slugs, Pillbugs and More appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
https://homesteadandchill.com/homemade-slug-beer-traps/feed/ 0 2060952
How to Make Chive Blossom Vinegar + 8 Ways to Use it https://homesteadandchill.com/chive-blossom-vinegar-recipe-uses/ https://homesteadandchill.com/chive-blossom-vinegar-recipe-uses/#respond Tue, 27 Jun 2023 20:08:30 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060785 Come learn how to make chive blossom vinegar - a gorgeous and delicious bright pink herbal infused vinegar. It's incredibly easy to make, and adds a bright zing of flavor to a wide variety of meals!

The post How to Make Chive Blossom Vinegar + 8 Ways to Use it appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
Chive blossom vinegar is a quintessential spring garden-to-table recipe. This colorful herbal vinegar can add a bright zing of flavor to a wide variety of dishes. Plus, it’s so easy to make, it really shouldn’t be called a “recipe” at all! This post will walk you through the simple step-by-process along with frequently asked questions – including how to use chive blossom vinegar.



What is chive blossom vinegar?


Chive blossom vinegar is an herbal infusion made by soaking fresh chive flowers in vinegar – much like pickling. As the pretty lavender flowers soak, their flavor, color, and nutrients seep into the vinegar. Chive blossoms are especially high in vitamins K, C, and A. After steeping, the blossoms are strained away and the result is an absolutely gorgeous, bright pink infused vinegar.

So, what does chive blossom vinegar taste like, you ask? Well, like vinegar… with a hint of chives! Edible chive blossoms taste a bit like green onions, but have a more mild, delicate flavor than the green chives themselves. The flavor also depends on the type of vinegar you use to make it. 


A hand is holding a wooden bowl that is full of purple blossoms, a few chive stems with blossoms on the end are held next to the bowl with the same hand. The backdrop is an array of perennial plants with purple, pink and orange flowers.


Ingredients


  • Fresh chive blossoms 
  • Vinegar, such as white wine vinegar (used here) or apple cider vinegar
  • A jar or other container with a lid


Exact measurements aren’t important. I use about 1 heaping cup of chive blossoms and 2 cups of vinegar. 


What kind of vinegar should I use?


You can make chive blossom vinegar with any kind of culinary vinegar. White wine vinegar, rice vinegar, and apple cider vinegar are all popular choices. We use white wine vinegar in this recipe, which creates a really nice balance of sweet, tangy, and mild onion flavors. I also love to use homemade apple cider vinegar when we have it on hand. Red wine vinegar can also be used, but white wine vinegar really lets the beautiful natural color of the chives shine! Some recipes call for plain white vinegar, though I think the flavor is a little too harsh for my taste.


A stream of clear liquid is streaming down from the top of the image into a pint mason jar full of purple flower blooms.


How to Make Chive Blossom Vinegar


  1. Start by harvesting chive blossoms. For the best results, choose young fresh flowers that are fully open but haven’t yet begun to fade or dry out on the plant.

  2. Use a strainer to wash the chive blossoms under cool running water, and shake or gently pat dry with a towel after. The flowers don’t need to be fully dry however.

  3. Add the chive blossoms to a clean jar, or other suitable container with a lid.  Fill the jar at least two-thirds full with flowers.

  4. Next, pour vinegar over the blossoms until they are completely submerged and/or until the jar is full. Stir and press the flowers down.

  5. Add a lid, and set the jar aside in a cool dark place (room temperature) to soak and infuse for at least one to two weeks.* (See quick heat method option below.) During the first couple of days, you may want to gently tip or shake the jar to move things around so the top floating blossoms get soaked in vinegar too.

  6. When the time is up, use a colander and/or cheesecloth to strain the chive blossoms from the vinegar. Reserve the vinegar to keep, and compost or discard the used flowers. (I like to use the bottom of an empty jar to gently press out any remaining liquid from the flowers, shown below.)

  7. Finally, add your beautiful finished vinegar to a bottle or jar, and enjoy! See a list of ideas and ways to use chive blossom vinegar below.

  8. Chive blossom vinegar is safe to store at room temperature for several months, though refrigeration will extend its shelf life even further. See storage and expiration notes below. 


A pint mason jar full of chive blossoms that are covered completely in vinegar. Beyond are a few more chives with light purple blossom blooms atop the green chive.
Just after pouring vinegar into the jar
A hand is holding a pint mason jar upside down by the lid, the plant material inside is infusing, turning the vinegar into a pinkish color. Beyond is an array of purple, pink, and yellow flowers.
Two weeks later
A hand is holding a pint mason jar from the top while pressing down onto a wire mesh strainer full of chive blossoms that have been strained from the chive blossom vinegar sitting in the liquid measuring cup below.
Using a jar to lightly press the chives in the strainer to squeeze out the extra liquid


Quick heat method to make chive blossom vinegar


Looking to make chive blossom vinegar more quickly? Lightly heat the vinegar on the stovetop first, then pour warm-hot vinegar over the flowers instead. The heat will speed up the infusion process and the vinegar will be ready for use in just three days. (This method works, but the result isn’t quite as rich or high-quality as a slow, gentle infusion – so it’s worth the wait! Keep in mind that heating apple cider vinegar will reduce its health benefits.)


How long does chive blossom vinegar last?


Chive blossom vinegar should stay good for many, many months. After all, you’ve essentially preserved the chive blossoms by pickling them! It is shelf-stable and can be stored at room temperature for up to 2 to 3 months. When stored in the refrigerator, it can last for up to a year.  Putrid, off odors or cloudiness are signs that the vinegar has gone bad and should be discarded. 


A fancy glass bottle is in the foreground full of brilliantly light red liquid. Beyond there is a smaller bottle that is halfway full of the same liquid, a stainless steel funnel is sitting inside the top opening.


How to Use Chive Blossom Vinegar


One of the most common ways to use chive blossom vinegar is as a salad dressing on green salads, though it can be used in many other ways! Use it in any recipe that calls for vinegar where you’d also enjoy a hint of mild onion flavor.


  1. Salad dressing. Drizzle the vinegar right over salad with a bit of olive oil, or use it as an ingredient in other homemade salad dressing recipes. It’s especially awesome for vinegar-forward salads like greek salad!

  2. In potato salad or pasta salad, corn salads, rice salads, or other similar dishes that call for acid (vinegar or lemon juice).

  3. Dips and sauces. A little splash will bring a welcome oniony-zing to homemade tzatziki sauce, hummus, salsa, guacamole, pesto, artichoke or caramelized onion dip, baba ganoush and more.

  4. Pickles. Chive blossom vinegar makes a flavorful pickling brine that can be used to pickle other vegetables, such as in this quick refrigerator dill pickles recipe or to make pickled peppers. You can use 100% chive blossom vinegar to make pickles, or just a portion mixed with other vinegar.

  5. Egg dishes. I love adding a sprinkle of apple cider vinegar and fresh chives to egg salad and deviled eggs, so why not chive blossom vinegar?

  6. As part of a marinade, such as for roasted vegetables or meats. I bet it would even be tasty with fish and chips, like malt vinegar!

  7. Brighten soups. Many soup, stew, and chili recipes call for a little splash of vinegar or lemon juice at the end – including our favorite kale lentil soup! The acid really helps to brighten and bring together all the savory flavors.

  8. Burger or sandwich drizzle. I love a good loaded veggie sandwich or burger with a drizzle of oil and vinegar! You could also use chive blossom vinegar in lieu of balsamic in an oil-and-vinegar bread dipping plate, which pairs especially well with a rustic chewy loaf of homemade sourdough. 


A glass bottle with a glass stopper for the top is full of brilliantly pink to light red chive blossom vinegar. A couple chive greens with blossoms are arrayed next to the jar while an arch full of pole beans and snap peas connecting two raised garden beds is in the background.


And that is how you make and use chive blossom vinegar.


So stinkin’ easy, right? I hope you enjoyed learning how to make this beautiful herbal vinegar. Perhaps it will become one of your new favorite spring rituals as well! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, or if you come up with any more tasty ways to use it. Also please consider leaving a star rating below and/or sharing this post if you found it useful. Thank you so much for tuning in today, and enjoy!


You may also enjoy:


Print

Chive Blossom Vinegar Recipe (Ways to Use It)

Come learn how to make chive blossom vinegar – a gorgeous and delicious bright pink herbal infused vinegar. It's incredibly easy to make, and adds a bright zing of flavor to a wide variety of meals!
Course Dressing, Preserves, Salad Dressing, Sauce, Seasoning
Keyword chive blossom vinegar
Prep Time 10 minutes
Infusion Time 10 days
Servings 2 cups

Equipment

  • 16 ounce jar or similar container with lid
  • strainer and/or cheesecloth
  • storage bottle or jar

Ingredients

  • 1 cup fresh chive blossoms (exact measurements not necessary)
  • 2 cups vinegar of choice – white wine vinegar recommended (apple cider vinegar or rice vinegar are also good options)

Instructions

  • Harvest fresh chive blossoms. For the best results, choose flowers that are fully open but haven’t yet begun to fade or dry out on the plant.
  • Use a strainer to wash the chive blossoms under cool running water, and shake or gently pat dry with a towel after. The flowers don’t need to be fully dry however.
  • Add the chive blossoms to a clean jar, or other suitable container with a lid.  Fill the jar at least two-thirds full with flowers. 
  • Pour vinegar over the blossoms until they are completely submerged and/or until the jar is full. Stir and press the flowers down.
  • Add a lid, and set the jar aside in a cool dark place (room temperature) to soak and infuse for at least one to two weeks. * (See quick heat method notes below). During the first couple of days, you may want to gently tip or shake the jar to move things around so the top floating blossoms get soaked in vinegar too.
  • When the time is up, use a colander and/or cheesecloth to strain the chive blossoms from the vinegar. Reserve the vinegar to keep, and compost or discard the used flowers.
  • Finally, add your beautiful finished chive blossom vinegar to a bottle or jar, and enjoy!
  • Chive blossom vinegar is safe to store at room temperature for several months, though refrigeration will extend its shelf life for up to a year. Discard if it develops off/putrid odor or becomes cloudy.

Notes

Looking to make chive blossom vinegar more quickly? Lightly heat the vinegar on the stovetop first, then pour warm-hot vinegar over the flowers instead. The heat will speed up the infusion process and the vinegar will be ready for use in just three days. (This method works, but the result isn’t quite as rich or high-quality as a slow, gentle infusion – so it’s worth the wait! Keep in mind that heating apple cider vinegar will reduce its health benefits.)



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

The post How to Make Chive Blossom Vinegar + 8 Ways to Use it appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
https://homesteadandchill.com/chive-blossom-vinegar-recipe-uses/feed/ 0 2060785
How to Make Soothing Chickweed Salve Recipe and Infused Oil  https://homesteadandchill.com/chickweed-salve-recipe/ https://homesteadandchill.com/chickweed-salve-recipe/#comments Wed, 21 Jun 2023 19:11:05 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060525 There's nothing worse than feeling uncomfortable in your own skin! Come learn how to make soothing chickweed salve. It's easy to do, and can help calm skin irritation including rashes, redness, eczema, bug bites, poison ivy, swelling, and more.

The post How to Make Soothing Chickweed Salve Recipe and Infused Oil  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
There’s nothing worse than feeling uncomfortable in your own skin! So read along to learn how to make our soothing homemade chickweed salve recipe. It’s easy to make chickweed infused oil and salve, and requires only a handful of ingredients. (Some of which you may be able to find in your own backyard!) The result is a beautiful, moisturizing, nutrient-rich topical salve that can calm skin irritation of all kinds – including rashes, redness, eczema, bug bites, poison ivy, and more. 

If you’re here because you want to make chickweed salve, chances are you’re already familiar with chickweed itself… But just in case you aren’t, let’s start with a quick background lesson.



What is Chickweed?


Chickweed (stellaria media) is a tender, edible, and nutritious annual herb. It’s often thought of as a “weed”, commonly found growing in the shade in backyards, open fields, and riparian habitats during the cool wet season. Chickweed is originally native to Europe but has been naturalized throughout the United States, Canada, and beyond. Historically, chickweed has been used by Native Americans for centuries in herbal medicine and skincare. 

Learn more about chickweed here, including foraging, cultivation, harvest, and identification tips. 


A wicker basket full of freshly harvest chickweed. It is held aloft in front of a grass meadow underneath large oak trees.
We harvest and dry wild chickweed from our property all winter and spring – stocking up enough to use all year long!


What is Chickweed Salve?


Chickweed salve is a soothing golden-green topical balm made with the chickweed plant, natural oil, and wax (usually beeswax). The first step in making chickweed salve is to soak or infuse dried chickweed in oil, which extracts the beneficial compounds from the plant material into the oil. Then, the infused oil is combined with other ingredients like beeswax to make it more firm and spreadable, creating a salve or balm. 

You can also customize your homemade chickweed salve recipe and add optional ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E oil, other skin-friendly herbs (e.g. calendula, chamomile, rosehips, or lavender), or essential oils to enhance the moisturizing and healing benefits. For example, I often like to soak half chickweed and half calendula in oil to make an extra-rejuvenating salve!


A half gallon mason jar is filled with half with calendula flowers and half chickweed that is infusing in oil. The infused oil will then be used to make chickweed salve.
Infusing sweet almond oil with both dried chickweed and dried calendula


Benefits of Chickweed Salve


Chickweed possesses many therapeutic qualities that make it wonderful for natural skincare and healing! First, it’s loaded with numerous vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants including Vitamin C, beta-carotene, calcium, iron, magnesium, and zinc. Chickweed also has potent cooling, drying, analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-fungal properties. When combined with moisturizing natural oils and beeswax, this gives chickweed salve the ability to fight skin inflammation, reduce redness, itching, and more. 


What is chickweed salve used for?


Chickweed salve may help soothe irritated skin and conditions including (but not limited to):

  • eczema
  • rashes and hives
  • insect bites
  • psoriasis
  • poison ivy or poison oak
  • acne
  • minor burns and scrapes 
  • sunburn
  • razor burn
  • general itching, redness and swelling


I broke out in hives recently (after pruning some overgrown elderberry bushes – they’re toxic) and our chickweed-calendula Skin Calm Balm provided immediate relief. The hives were gone within 10 minutes!


A metal tin of chickweed salve, the tins lid is resting partially on the bottom part of the tin, revealing the golden salve within. Calendula flowers and chickweed garnish the surrounding area.
Our chickweed-calendula “Skin Calm Balm” is offered seasonally in our shop – along with many other organic skincare salves, face oil, bath salts, and more.


Drying Chickweed


This chickweed salve recipe calls for dried chickweed. Since added moisture (water) can cause mold and spoilage, it’s important to use 100% dry herbs in infused oil and salve – especially when using the slow cold oil infusion method like we do in this recipe. Remember, oil and water don’t mix! 

Thankfully, chickweed dries very quickly. If yours isn’t yet dry, simply lay out the fresh chickweed on an herb drying screen or in a woven basket in a warm, dry, well-ventilated location for several days. Or, pop it in a food dehydrator on the lowest heat setting until fully crispy dry. That’s what we do!

You can also buy certified organic dried chickweed here.


A dehydrator tray full of dried chickweed. A hand is holding up part of the dried plant material for better inspection.
We use our Excalibur dehydrator to dry all sorts of veggies, fruits, flower and herbs – chickweed included! I love that it has low-heat “living foods” and herb settings that retain the medicinal compounds and nutrients as much as possible.


Chickweed Salve Recipe


Ingredients


  • Dried chickweed – enough to loosely fill an 8 oz jar (see infusion notes below).
  • 1 cup (8 ounces) carrier oil of choice. Popular carrier oil options for skincare include sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, and coconut oil. You can use one, or mix a couple! For the maximum healing benefits, we like to use certified organic cold-pressed oils. Learn more about the pros and cons of 11 carrier oils here.
  • OR 1 cup (8 ounces) of already-infused chickweed oil
  • 1/4 cup (1 ounce) beeswax pastilles or pellets. Beeswax is the most common type of natural wax used to make chickweed salve. It’s readily available, easy to work with, and creates a perfectly smooth, firm but spreadable salve. Beeswax is also antimicrobial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and highly moisturizing! See vegan wax options below.
  • Optional: 1 Tbsp organic shea butter, which is highly moisturizing and rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants.
  • Optional: a few drops of essential oils of choice. Technically, you can safely use up to 100 drops (1 tsp) maximum per cup of carrier oil, though that will result in a very, very strongly-scented salve. I suggest using ¼ to ½ that amount, or less. Lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus are all especially soothing for skin irritation (antibacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory). We like to use certified organic essential oils from Plant Therapy.


Supplies Needed


  • A double-boiler or DIY double boiler (e.g. a smaller pot or glass bowl that can rest inside a slightly larger pot). To prevent overheating or denaturing the therapeutic compounds, it’s important to use a double boiler rather than heating your chickweed salve ingredients directly on the stove.
  • Small glass jars or salve tins, for storage. We often use 2-ounce amber glass jars or larger cobalt blue 4-ounce jars for personal use or gifts, and 2-ounce salve tins for easy shipping for our shop.


Yield: This recipe makes just over a cup of finished chickweed salve, or about 8 to 10 ounces (4 or 5 two-ounce containers). Note that I made a double batch in the images shown. There is a scalable, printable recipe at the end of this article.


A white ramekin is full of oil sitting next to a metal measuring cup full of beeswax pastilles and a tablespoon measurement of shea butter. These are the ingredients to make chickweed salve. A fresh sprig of chickweed is splayed out as a garnish.


Vegan wax options for chickweed salve


It’s possible to make chickweed salve with plant-based waxes like soy wax, carnauba wax, or candelilla wax too. However, this may take a little experimentation since they have different textures and therefore may yield different results than beeswax. Soy is an easy 1-1 replacement for beeswax, while you’ll want to use slightly less carnauba or candelilla wax than beeswax since they’re more firm and prone to cracking (e.g. 1 part wax to 6 parts oil, rather than 1:4).


How to Make Chickweed Infused Oil


Before making the salve, first create chickweed infused oil. Fill a clean jar or other container about two-thirds full of dried chickweed (lightly packed). Next, pour over your oil of choice. Use enough to fully cover and submerge the chickweed. Again, this recipe calls for 1 cup of chickweed oil, so use at least a cup of oil or more. 

Add a lid and let the chickweed infuse in the oil in a cool dark location for at least 10 days, or up to several weeks. The longer it infuses, the more potent the oil will become! Once the time is up, strain the chickweed and reserve the oil. I like to set a small cheesecloth-lined strainer on top of a new clean jar or measuring cup, and pour the chickweed oil through. Then I can gather the chickweed in the cheesecloth to squeeze out any remaining oil. See photos below.

If you’d like to use a quick heated oil infusion method and/or use fresh (wet) chickweed instead of letting it passively steep, see this guide for further direction. 


A pint mason jar of infusing green plant material in oil. The surface surrounding the jar contains a bunch of dried plant material while a wicker basket behind the jar is full of freshly harvested green plant material.
Soaking dry (not fresh!) chickweed in oil
A four way image collage, the first image shows a jar with a fine mesh strainer and cheesecloth resting over the top of it while a jar of infused oil is poured into it from above. The second image shows the jar after the infused oil has been strained, the strainer and cheesecloth now contain the infused plant material that was strained out. The third image shows a hand holding the cheesecloth as one would a tea bag, it has been squeezed to render out any oil that was left within the plant material. The fourth image shows the jar of infused oil, the cheesecloth of plant material is in the background.
Straining the oil after a few weeks of infusing


Instructions to Make Chickweed Salve


  1. Before starting, get your salve tins, glass jars, or other salve storage containers of choice ready and waiting.

  2. Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.

  3. Add enough water to the bottom portion of your double-boiler so that the top bowl or pot is in contact and resting in the water below.

  4. Next, heat the double-boiler over a medium-low heat on the stovetop uncovered (without a lid). Remember, we want to avoid excessively heating the chickweed oil more than what is necessary! Just enough to melt the beeswax.

  5. Monitor and routinely stir the mixture until the beeswax (and shea butter) completely melts. Stir to thoroughly combine, and then remove from the heat immediately thereafter.

  6. Wait to add optional essential oils until after removing the liquid salve from the heat. They’re very volatile and therefore will dissipate quickly when exposed to high heat. Whisk to combine.

  7. While it’s still hot, carefully pour the now-liquid chickweed salve into your chosen storage containers. If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.

  8. Finally, allow the chickweed salve to fully cool and harden before adding lids.

  9. Now your homemade chickweed salve is ready to use to soothe and heal your skin! Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve and apply as needed. A little goes a long way!


Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it’s medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. Discard if mold appears.


A stainless steel pot is sitting inside of a large pot to create a double boiler. There is oil, beeswax pastilles, and a glob of shea butter in the top pot.
A makeshift DIY double boiler: a smaller stainless steel pot nestled inside a larger one, with water in the lower pot.
A stainless steel pot is poised over metal tins, pouring melted golden liquid into the tins below.
A honeycomb shaped array of round metal tins of chickweed salve. The salve is a vibrant, yolk colored yellow, fresh chickweed twigs garnish the area around the salves.


And that concludes this lesson on making homemade chickweed salve.


That was pretty easy, right? I hope that this tutorial helps you feel excited and empowered to go make chickweed salve of your own. I also hope it helps your skin feel wonderful! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. If you found this to be useful, please consider leaving a star rating or sharing this post. Thank you so much for tuning in today.


Don’t miss these related posts:


Print

How to Make Homemade Chickweed Salve

Learn how to make soothing chickweed salve with this easy step-by-step tutorial. Chickweed salve can help calm skin irritation and conditions including rashes, eczema, minor burns, insect bites, poison ivy or oak, psoriasis, razor burn, and more!
Keyword chickweed balm, chickweed oil, chickweed salve
Prep Time 10 minutes
Cook Time 10 minutes
Cooling Time 20 minutes
Servings 10 ounces

Equipment

  • A double-boiler, or make-shift double boiler (such as a glass pyrex bowl or stainless steel bowl perched on top of a saucepan with water below)
  • Glass storage jars or salve tins

Ingredients

  • 1 cup Chickweed-infused oil (dried chickweed previously soaked in sweet almond oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, or other carrier oil of choice – see infusion instructions in post)
  • 4 tbsp Beeswax pastilles. 4 Tbsp = approximately 1 once if you're using shaved, block, or other forms of beeswax. (vegan option: replace with the same amount of organic soy wax or slightly less candelilla wax)
  • 1 tbsp Shea butter (optional)
  • 20-25 drops Essential oil of choice such as lavender, peppermint, or eucalyptus – all great choices for skincare. (Feel free to scale up or down, but the maximum concentration or safe dilution ratio = up to 96 drops EO max per 1 cup oil)

Instructions

  • Have your chosen salve tins or small glass storage jars ready and waiting.
  • Add 1 cup of strained chickweed-infused oil along with 4 level tablespoons of beeswax to the top portion of a double-boiler (or DIY double-boiler, see photo below). Optional: also add 1 tablespoon of shea butter and/or a few drops of vitamin E oil if you choose to use it.
  • Heat the mixture on the stovetop over medium-low heat (without a lid) and only until the beeswax melts. Stir frequently.
  • As soon as everything melts and is thoroughly combined, remove from heat.
  • Add essential oils once removed from heat. They're highly volatile and prone to dissipating.
  • While it is still hot, carefully pour the liquid salve into your chosen containers. (If it starts to solidify while you’re still filling containers, simply put it back on medium-low heat until it liquifies again.)
  • Set the full chickweed salve containers aside (lids off) and allow them to fully cool.
  • The chickweed salve will harden as it cools, and then it is ready to use. Use either clean fingers or a salve spoon to collect a small amount of salve, and apply to your skin as needed. A little goes a long way!
  • Store your salve containers in a cool, dark location. Homemade chickweed salve can “stay good” for several years. However, it's medicinal potency may decrease with extended time and age. 



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

The post How to Make Soothing Chickweed Salve Recipe and Infused Oil  appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
https://homesteadandchill.com/chickweed-salve-recipe/feed/ 4 2060525
28 Best Winter Squash and Pumpkin Varieties to Grow https://homesteadandchill.com/best-pumpkin-winter-squash-varieties/ https://homesteadandchill.com/best-pumpkin-winter-squash-varieties/#comments Thu, 15 Jun 2023 04:51:27 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060137 Butternuts, kabocha, delicata... Get excited to grow winter squash and pumpkins with this list 28 unique, beautiful, and delicious varieties to grow! With varying sizes, storage shelf life, days to maturity, and disease resistance - there are options for every garden and zone.

The post 28 Best Winter Squash and Pumpkin Varieties to Grow appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
Butternut, acorn, delicata… There are so many kinds of decorative and edible winter squash to grow, and even more interesting varieties within each type! Come explore our top 28 popular and noteworthy winter squash varieties – including pumpkins, spaghetti squash, kabocha squash, and more.

In addition to their unique appearances, different winter squash varieties offer their own distinct flavor profiles, culinary uses, fruit size, growth habits (bush vs vining), storage potential, days to maturity, and natural pest or disease resistance. Ranging from highly ornate to simple and delicious, there is something for every gardener on this list.

Need tips on growing winter squash and pumpkins? Check out our full seed-to-table Grow Guide here.



Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, including to High Mowing Organic Seeds, our favorite small business to buy certified organic garden seeds from. Browse the complete selection of winter squash varieties offered by High Mowing here.


Butternut Squash Varieties


Pumpkins aside, butternut squash are arguably the most common and popular type of winter squash – and for good reason! With its sweet, nutty, beautiful orange flesh, butternut squash is ideal for baking, roasting, soups, sauces, and more. It pairs equally as good with sweets and cinnamon spices as it does with savory herbs like sage, garlic, and thyme, and can be used interchangeably in recipes that call for pumpkin. Butternut also offers a high flesh-to-cavity ratio, exceptional storage life, and are highly resistant to squash vine borers! There are dozens of different butternut squash varieties, but here are my top four:


  1. Nutter Butter Butternut. This is our favorite butternut squash variety. We harvested 28 squash (just over 60 pounds) from just TWO plants last year! It’s described to be “reliably mature in regions that have trouble ripening butternuts” and has some tolerance to powdery mildew – both great for our cool coastal climate. 90 days to maturity. Vining habitat. Get seeds here.

  2. Waltham Butternut. A classic large butternut squash variety with a long neck and small seed cavity. The yellow orange flesh is sweet, rich, and nutty tasting. Great long-term storage. 100 days to maturity. Vining habitat. Get seeds here (or here).

  3. Autumn Frost Butternut Squash. A gorgeous specialty butternut with a unique frosted appearance and rich earthy flavor. Highly resistant to powdery mildew. 100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  4. Honeynut Butternut. Petite personal-sized butternut squash with a classic butternut shape, dark tan skin, and great tasting flesh. Good resistance to powdery mildew. 110 days to maturity. Vining habitat. Get seeds here (or here).


A birds eye view photo of a wicker basket full of harvested butternut squash, a vine from the plant is growing out from the raised bed nearby and is bordering the basket. Two people stand near the basket, only their boots are visible.
Nutterbutter grows incredibly well and prolific for us. Not to mention that some of the fruit lasted 7 months in storage!
A wooden box full of butternut squash whose skin is silvery tan and the flesh is bright orange in color.
Autumn Frost butternut from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Pumpkin Varieties


Pumpkins: the quintessential winter squash variety for fall decor – and drool-worthy seasonal baked goods! All pumpkin varieties are technically edible, though some “jack-o-lantern” types are best left for carving or ornamental use. On the other hand, most pumpkin varieties are absolutely delicious. They’re also loaded with vitamin A, C, antioxidants, and fiber. Browse even more unique pumpkin varieties here, and don’t miss our list of pumpkin (and butternut) recipes at the end of this post!


  1. New England Pie Pumpkin. Also known as “sugar pie pumpkins”, these petite round heirloom pumpkins have flavorful, stringless flesh with the ideal texture for baking. 105 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  2. Cider Jack Pumpkin. Medium sized Jack O’ Lantern type (10-14 pound fruits) with smooth skin and long stem make it great for carving. Some resistance to powdery mildew. 90 days to maturity. Semi-bush habitat. Get seeds here.

  3. Cinderella Pumpkin. A whimsical French heirloom pumpkin with large, flattened red-skinned fruit (15 to 20 pounds) with deep orange flesh and a strong sweet flavor. Edible and highly ornamental. 99 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here (or here).

  4. Pie-Pita Hulless Pumpkin. This pie pumpkin variety produces already-shelled (hulless) pumpkin seeds inside (aka pepitas) – making it ideal to use for its flesh AND easy edible seeds. Petite 2 to 3 pound fruit. 100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  5. Musquee de Provence (aka Fairytale). Stunning ribbed, flat heirloom pumpkin variety that grows 14 to 40 pounds. Tan, muted orange skin and thick, deep orange moderately sweet flesh. Sold in cut wedges in French markets for cooking. Highly decorative and edible. Long storage ability. 125 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  6. Jarrahdale Pumpkin. Silvery-blue pumpkin with deep ridges that reaches 6 to 12 pounds in weight. Can be used as decor, carved, and even baked. Orange, stringless flesh is sweet and nutty in flavor. Good long storage ability. 100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  7. Red Warty Thing. Unique 10-20 pound fruit with incredibly bumpy, red-orange skin and good flavored flesh with nice texture. Can be used as decor, carved, or eaten once the fall holiday season has passed. 110 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.


A group of short and squat, light orange pumpkins with light tan stems are mostly used for baking.
New England sugar pie pumpkins from High Mowing Organic Seeds
Four squash that are bright orangish red in color while being wide and flat in shape with deep ridges. One that has been cut reveals bright orange flesh within. There are so many winter squash varieties to grow and eat, you may need more garden space.
Cinderella heirloom pumpkins from High Mowing Organic Seeds
Smaller orange pumpkins sit stacked atop one another two high. They have long dark stems, bright orange skin and matching orange flesh. Their seeds are hull-less so they are green in color without the seed shell.
Pie-Pita pumpkins from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Acorn Squash Varieties


Acorn squash is a small, round, scalloped winter squash variety. It is prized by Indigenous peoples for its long storage life, ability to cook whole, and versatile uses. Acorn squash flesh is mild and buttery, pairing with both savory and sweet flavors and seasonings. The petite size (2-3 pounds) makes one fruit an ideal meal for two. The generous-sized center cavity is perfect for stuffing with other filling ingredients, served right in its own shell.

  1. Sweet Reba Acorn Squash. REBA stands for “Resistant Early Bush Acorn” – describing this highly disease-resistant, early bush variety of acorn squash. It produces bountiful yields of uniform two pound fruit with dark green skin and dark yellow flesh. 90 days to maturity. Bush. Get seeds here.

  2. Table King Acorn Squash. An even earlier-maturing acorn squash variety, ideal for short growing seasons or late planting. Two pound fruit with dark green skin, bright yellow flesh, and sweet nutty flavor. 75-80 days to maturity. Compact 4′ vines, good for small spaces. Get seeds here.

  3. Sugarbush Acorn Squash. Round 2 to 3 pound fruit with dark green skin and exceptionally sweet golden orange flesh. This acorn squash variety offers high resistance to powdery mildew and a small seed cavity. 90 days to maturity. Compact bush type. Get seeds here.


Many small acorn squash sit in a wooden box, their skin is dark green in color with a single splotch of orange, one of the fruit has been cut in half to show its bright yellowish orange flesh.
Sweet Reba acorn squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Delicata Squash Varieties


Delicata squash are oblong cylindrical fruits with cream to yellow-orange skin and green stripes. Unlike other winter squash varieties, delicata has exceptionally thin edible skin, so peeling isn’t necessary! This makes it especially popular for quick and easy preparation, roasting, and even used on salads. Despite the thin skin, delicata squash should still last a couple months in dry storage post-harvest if stored properly. The flavor of delicata squash is often described as a cross between butternut squash and sweet potato, sweet and tender.


  1. Classic Delicata Squash. Vining plant that produces oblong, uniform 1 to 1.5 pound striped fruit with superbly tender, sweet flesh and skin. 95 days to maturity. Get seeds here.

  2. Honeyboat Delicata. Claimed to be the “sweetest squash in existence”. Long 1 to 1.5 pound fruits have the classic green striping of delicata but with a much more orangey-copper colored skin compared to the yellow that is typically found. Stores well and the sweetness holds up through storage. 100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  3. Bush Delicata. 1.5 to 2 pound cream-skinned fruit with green stripes that turns more yellow as it cures. Sweet, nutty flavor with hints of butter and brown sugar. Compact plants only spread 4-6 feet and have some resistance to powdery mildew. 100 days to maturity. Semi-vining. Get seeds here.


Delicata squash inside a plastic tote, its skin has green striping with coppery orange flesh, one of the oblong fruits has been cut in half lengthwise, revealing the long and narrow seed cavity and dark yellow flesh. There are so many winter squash varieties to grow, you may have a hard time choosing which ones to grow.
Honeyboat delicata squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Hubbard Squash


Hubbard squash are a large, interesting, pear-shaped type of winter squash. It’s very ornate for fall decor! Like most winter squash varieties, Hubbard squash flesh is sweet and starchy but can also sometimes be a bit grainy – so it’s better for purees, baking, or soups than eating roasted on its own. Note that Blue Hubbard squash is highly attractive to squash bugs and vine borers. So much so, it’s often grown as a trap crop. 


  1. Baby Blue Hubbard Squash. A smaller version of the unique teardrop-shaped blue Hubbard squash. 5 to 7 pound fruits with smooth blue-gray skin. This variety’s yellow-orange flesh is sweeter than classic large Hubbard squash. 95 days to maturity. Get seeds here.

  2. Red Kuri. A red baby hubbard type that bears 3 to 4 pound teardrop-shaped fruit with bright reddish-orange skin, and smooth, sweet, dry orange flesh. This improved variety offers great yields even in cooler climates and shorter seasons. 95 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here (or here).


Bright green blue in color pear shaped fruit sit on the grass nearby some rusty farm equipment.
Baby Blue Hubbard squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds
Bright reddish orange skin and oblong teardrop shaped red kuri squash. The shape, color, and flavor of this squash make it one of the good winter squash varieties to grow.
Red Kuri winter squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Kabocha Squash


Kabocha squash is a Japanese type of winter squash, with small to medium size squatty fruit that resemble petite heirloom pumpkins. Classic kabocha varieties have dark green skin with yellow flesh, though it also comes in other colors and cultivars. Kabocha’s smooth sweet flesh is very versatile to use in cooking, roasting, baked goods, and as a substitute for other winter squash varieties in recipes, including pumpkin.


  1. Sunshine Kabocha. Vigorous, compact plants produce slightly flattened 3 to 5 pound globe-shaped fruit. Reddish-orange skin and bright orange flesh with great flavor and stringless texture. 95 days to maturity. Semi-bush. Get seeds here.

  2. Bagheera. Dark green skin with golden orange flesh that is both rich in flavor and firm in texture. 3 to 4 pound fruits grow on compact high-yielding plants. 95 days to maturity. Semi-bush. Get seeds here.

  3. Winter Sweet Squash. Uniquely beautiful pale gray-blue kabocha squash. 4 to 5 pound fruits offer complex, sweet, rich flavor that improves after a 2-5 months of storage. Taste test winner, and excellent long storage! 95 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.


A mound of Sunshine kabocha squash atop a wooden backdrop. The skin is bright reddish orange and the flesh of a cut squash reveals the orange flesh inside. There are numerous winter squash varieties to grow or buy at your local market.
Sunshine kabocha from High Mowing Organic Seeds
A pile of Winter Sweet squash that is lighting silvery blue in color, one has been cut in half to reveal the bright orange flesh and seedy cavity within. This is one of the winter squash varieties we are growing this season and the plants are very vigorous.
Winter Sweet squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Spaghetti Squash


Spaghetti squash is a fun winter squash variety for adults and kids alike. It also makes a great low-carb or gluten-free pasta alternative. Once cooked, spaghetti squash flesh pulls apart into long “noodles” – which can be served right in its own skin like a bowl! Top with butter or olive oil, salt, pepper, and perhaps a sprinkle of parmesan cheese. Yum!


  1. Classic Spaghetti Squash: Long, oblong yellow 3 to 5 pound fruit with flesh that separates into noodle-like strands when cooked. Very sweet and kid-friendly. 88 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  2. Orangeti Spaghetti Squash: Oblong in shape like traditional spaghetti squash but matures into a dark golden orange in color, inside and out. Early-maturing and high yield potential. 70 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  3. Angel Hair Spaghetti Squash: Prolific vines produce abundant petite squash (1.5 to 2 pounds). When cooked, the squash shreds into extra-fine angel hair squash noodles. 88 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.


Two fresh yellow spaghetti squash are sitting beyond a halved spaghetti squash that has been cooked and the flesh is pulled from its skin, the flesh resembles small yellow noodles. Spaghetti squash is a one of the better winter squash varieties to grow with kids in mind as they enjoy the noodle like flesh.
Classic Spaghetti squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds


Other Winter Squash Varieties


  1. Burgess Buttercup: Prolific long green vines bear 10 to 12 round squash. Ideal for trellising. Fruit are 3 to 5 pounds each, with green skin and bright orange sweet flesh. 95 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  2. Lakota: Beautiful pear-shaped heirloom squash with mottled bright reddish-orange and green skin. A rare, delicious, and highly-decorative Native American winter squash variety, historically grown by the Lakota Sioux. Sweet and nutty flavor. 85-100 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.

  3. Pink Banana: Large, oblong fruit that measure 18-24 inches in length and weigh up to 12 pounds. Smooth, light pink skin with sweet orange flesh that can be eaten on its own, used in baked goods, or canning. Aaron used to work at Whole Foods, and these things were a HIT with customers whenever they came into stock. 100-120 days to maturity. Vining. Get seeds here.


Green buttercup winter squash sitting in a wooden box, one of the squash has been cut in half to show the bright yellow orange flesh inside. There are many winter squash varieties to choose from for you garden.
Burgess Buttercup winter squash from High Mowing Organic Seeds
A four way image collage, the first image shows 4 halves of butternut squash cut lengthwise sitting face up on a baking sheet. They have been roasted in the oven and contain caramelized brown and black spots throughout the flesh.  The second image  shows a baked butternut "pumpkin" pie sitting in a glass pie container. The third image shows a birds eye view of a bowl of pumpkin chili garnished with cilantro and avocado slices. Sliced bread and a half roasted pumpkin garnish the are surrounding the bowl. The fourth image shows two slices of pumpkin bread sitting on a small white plate, beyond is the rest of the pumpkin bread sitting on a wire cooling rack.
I love cooking with winter squash! See recipe ideas below.


That concludes this round-up of awesome pumpkin and winter squash varieties.


Believe it or not, we barely scratched the surface of all the winter squash varieties and options out there. But I hope this list serves as a great starting point, and gives you plenty of ideas and inspiration! Did I miss any of your favorite go-to varieties to grow? Please let us know in the comments, or ask any questions you may have. Also please feel to share this article if you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in, and happy growing!


Don’t miss these related posts:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

The post 28 Best Winter Squash and Pumpkin Varieties to Grow appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
https://homesteadandchill.com/best-pumpkin-winter-squash-varieties/feed/ 2 2060137
Growing Winter Squash and Pumpkins: The Ultimate Guide https://homesteadandchill.com/growing-winter-squash-pumpkins/ https://homesteadandchill.com/growing-winter-squash-pumpkins/#comments Wed, 14 Jun 2023 18:30:06 +0000 https://homesteadandchill.com/?p=2060032 Learn everything you need to know to grow winter squash and pumpkins - with tips from seed to storage. They're delicious, fun to grow, versatile in the kitchen, last months in storage, and come in many unique shapes, sizes, and varieties!

The post Growing Winter Squash and Pumpkins: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
Are you interested in growing winter squash and pumpkins? Hey, me too! In fact, they’ve become some of my favorite crops in the garden lately. Winter squash is fun to grow, delicious and versatile in the kitchen, lasts for months in storage, and come in SO many unique shapes, sizes, and varieties. The plants admittedly do take up a bit of room, but can be grown up trellises to save space – which looks pretty darn cool too!

This guide will cover everything you need to know to grow winter squash and pumpkins from seed to table, including the best time of year to plant them, soil and space requirements, popular varieties, tips on growing winter squash vertically up trellises or in containers, hand pollination, pest control, harvest time, recipes, and more. After reading this, you’re going to want to grow ALL the squash! And you’ll be prepared to successfully do so. 



What is Winter Squash


Winter squash is a group of plants belonging to the cucurbit (Cucurbitaceae) family. Examples of winter squash include pumpkins, butternut squash, acorn squash, spaghetti squash, delicata, kabocha, gourds, and more. Often starchy and semi-sweet in nature, winter squash is popularly used in baking (e.g. pies or sweet breads) as well as roasted, added to soups, stews and more. They also make fantastic natural fall decor!

Have you ever wondered what the difference between winter squash and summer squash is, or why it is called “winter squash” at all? Namely, because winter squash is able to store and enjoy through the winter! Hard squash is another name for winter squash.

Both summer squash and winter squash are grown during the summer, but summer squash (e.g. zucchini) is more tender, perishable, and needs to be eaten or preserved soon after harvest. In contrast, winter squash has hard, thick skin and firm flesh that enables it to last in dry storage for many months post-harvest if cured and stored correctly. In fact, most winter squash varieties improve in flavor after a few months of storage.


A green, flat, pumpkin shaped squash has had a quarter of the fruit cut out revealing a bright orange flesh inside and a pulpy seed cavity.
Another difference is that winter squash has a hollow center cavity with “guts” and large seeds, whereas summer squash has small tender seeds within the flesh.


When to Plant and Grow Winter Squash 


Don’t let the name confuse you! Pumpkins and winter squash grow during the warm growing season, just like zucchini and other summer squash. They are not frost tolerant. Winter squash takes a longer time to grow, mature, and ripen – often harvested in late summer or fall. Day to maturity varies greatly with variety, averaging 90 to 100 days. 

The best time to plant winter squash is in early spring, after the risk of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up to at least 60 degrees (over 70°F is preferred if direct-sowing seeds). The plants enjoy warm soil and weather, so planting too early can slow their growth. Here on the Central Coast of California, we typically plant winter squash seedlings outside in mid April to early May. 

Winter squash grows best when air temperatures are 50-90°F.  Established fruit will continue to grow and mature in temperatures up to 100°F. But pollination cannot occur and flowers will drop in hotter temperatures, so new fruit will not set. Therefore, places with mild springs and very hot summer weather (e.g. Arizona, Florida, Texas, etc) should plant out winter squash as early in the growing season as possible (even in late winter). Use shade cloth during heat waves as needed, or frost cloth to protect plants from freezing. 


A birds eye view of DeannaCat's outstretched hand holding a butternut squash. Below are two wicker baskets that are both full of harvested butternut squash. Grow winter squash to store healthy vegetables through winter.
Last years’ butternut squash harvest – planted in April and harvested throughout September and October. We harvested 28 squash (over 50 pounds) from just two Nutterbutter vines!


Starting from Seed


It’s easy to grow winter squash and pumpkins from seed! Direct sow seeds outdoors after the last frost, once the soil is 65-70°F. Plant the seeds about an inch deep, and keep the soil consistently moist during germination. We like to cover emerging seedlings with chicken wire cloches to prevent birds or other critters from eating the tender sprouts. 

Or, get a jump start on the growing season and start winter squash seeds indoors and transplant seedlings outside instead. Sow winter squash seeds indoors in a fluffy seed starting mix about 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. Use a seedling heat mat to keep the soil warm and a grow light to provide ample bright light, and don’t forget to harden them off before transplanting outdoors! (See more indoor seed starting tips here). 

HOT TIP: Squash seedlings do not like their roots disturbed (often said to “not transplant well”) so it’s important to not let the seedlings get too crowded, large, or root bound when started indoors. To combat that, we start squash seeds in reusable 4-inch pots or 6-inch pots, and only one seedling per pot. That way, they have plenty of room and do not need to be potted up or teased apart.  


DeannaCat's gloved hand is holding a winter squash seedling after it has been removed from its small pot. The root ball is fairly well covered in roots and is ready to be transplanted to the garden. Below is a raised bed of chard that will be changed out for winter squash.
A healthy little delicata squash seedling we started indoors. The roots are *just* starting to wind around though, so it was definitely time to transplant outdoors!


Types of Winter Squash to Grow


The most popular types of winter squash include pumpkins, butternut squash, delicata, spaghetti, and acorn squash. Yet there are numerous other kinds, and dozens of unique varieties within each of those categories. For example, Nutterbutter and Autumn Frost are two of our favorite butternut squash varieties to grow. Sugar pie pumpkins are ideal for baking, while varieties like Cider Jack are great for fall decor and carving. Varieties like cinderella and winter sweet squash are both gorgeous and delicious!

Most winter squash grows on long sprawling vines. Vining squash plants are indeterminate, meaning they will continue to grow larger, longer, and continue to produce fruit all the way up until frost. On the other hand, some winter squash are determinate or bush varieties, which stay more compact and bear most of their fruit over a concentrated, shorter period of time (much like zucchini). Bush varieties also tend to produce fewer squash per plant. Be sure to read plant descriptions to understand which type you’re growing!


See this list of 28 awesome winter squash and pumpkin varieties for more ideas and details.


A vine of a butternut squash plant, one small immature fruit is in the foreground which has just been pollinated as the flower is still attached to its blossom end. Beyond is a more mature butternut squash that is much further along in development. Grow winter squash for great yields of healthy food that stores well.
A great example of how some vining (indeterminate) squash just keep on producing! This Nutterbutter plant had many mature squash almost ready for harvest, but also continued to produce new baby fruit late into the season.
A birds eye view of a large amount of varying winter squash varieties. Some are orange, pink, green, blue, white, and combinations of all of the above.


Growing Requirements: Sun, Soil, Water, Fertilizer 


  • Sun: Winter squash grow best with full sun, or a location that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day.

  • Soil: Pumpkin and winter squash thrive in rich, loose, well-draining soil that’s been worked with organic matter (e.g. compost). Winter squash plants like mildly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8.

  • Water: Water winter squash enough to keep the soil moderately damp at all times – not soggy, not dry. The use of a simple soil moisture meter is a huge help! The larger the plants and fruit get, the more water they require. Use mulch around the base of the plant to aid in even moisture retention. 

     
  • Fertilizer: Pumpkin and winter squash are heavy feeders. To aid in robust fruit development, hard squash benefits from fertilizer with slightly more phosphorus than nitrogen (e.g. 4-6-2). Before planting, amend soil with well-aged compost and/or worm castings plus a slow-release organic fertilizer. We also like to add mycorrhizae to the planting hole to support root development. Later in the growing season, plan to feed your winter squash plants once or twice more with a light top-dressing of fertilizer and/or compost tea.


A raised garden bed full of butternut squash vines with many fruit of varying ripeness. Grow winter squash for abundant yields of tasty vegetables.
Two butternut squash plants in a 4×6 foot raised bed.


Spacing Requirements and Growth


Plant winter squash in a location with full sun, rich well-draining soil, and PLENTY of space to grow! Winter squash plants tend to get quite large, though the size varies depending on the cultivar and type (bush vs. vining), so check the spacing requirements for the specific variety you’re growing. 

Bush varieties stay more compact, great for small spaces. On the other hand, vining winter squash can grow anywhere from 3 to 15 feet long. Even more, a single plant will send off several vines in every direction, not just one single long vine. Winter squash plants also have extensive root systems, and don’t grow well when crowded or with competing plants within a couple feet.

You can grow winter squash in the ground pumpkin-patch style, or in raised beds and allow them to sprawl and spill over the sides of beds. In that case, you may want to place a small piece of cardboard (or other protective material) under squash or pumpkins that are sitting directly on the soil to prevent rot or insect damage. Or, save space by growing vining winter squash vertically up a trellis – explored below.


A two way image collage, the first image shows an open garden bed with four winter squash seedlings spaced evenly apart throughout. The second image shows the same raised bed 6 weeks later, the plants have completely grown in, covering the bare soil that we previously visible in the bed.
May 1st vs June 14th. This year I put 4 vining winter squash per 4×8′ bed. Things will definitely get a little crowded, but I’ll direct the vines to flow down the sides of the bed.
A green lean-to trellis is set up on the end of a raised bed. A smaller winter squash plant is starting to grow towards and onto the trellis.
In addition to a classic vertical trellis or arched arbor, you can also grow winter squash over an A-frame trellis like this. It could be set fully inside the bed, or like we do, hung off one end of the bed. That way, we can plant a couple squash towards the end of the bed, direct the vines towards the trellis, and still have space in the rest of the bed for other plants. We grow cucumbers this way too!


Growing Winter Squash Vertically on Trellises 


Vining winter squash are easy to grow vertically up trellises, obelisks, or other support structures. With small tendrils that curl and grasp, pumpkin and squash vines are natural climbers. Winter squash looks especially whimsical and dramatic hanging from arched trellises and arbors. You can make your own trellis with cattle panel or wire fencing, or buy a pre-made arched trellis.

In addition to saving loads of space, trellising winter squash and pumpkins offers a number of benefits. Increased airflow among the foliage reduces the prevalence of disease and pests. Elevating the fruit makes them less susceptible to rot, pests, or discoloration from sitting on the ground. It also makes everything easier to see and maintain. Finally, trellised squash vines can help create shade to grow less heat-tolerant crops below, such as lettuce or other leafy greens. 

Yet as the squash become very large and heavy, there is a slight risk that the vines can get damaged or even break under the weight of the fruit. Therefore, some gardeners create slings or other supports to help cradle mature fruit as it hangs. Some clever examples of ways to support hanging squash include using pieces of old t-shirts, panty hose, mesh netting, twine slings, or even these specialized pumpkin hammocks.


Large round arches are lined one after the next on the way to a glassed in sun room. The first trellis is covered in vining winter squash with orange pumpkin type squash hanging from the vines.
A stunning display of pumpkins growing up Gracie moongate trellises (they’re fantastic, we have one in our new orchard) at Cornerstone Sonoma gardens.
A winter squash plant being trained vertically up a trellis, a few rows of lettuce are growing below. You can grow winter squash in tight spaces by using a trellis.
A simple vertical squash trellis. Learn how to make a sturdy DIY trellis here.


Hand Pollinating Winter Squash and Pumpkins


Without proper pollination, small squash fruit will start to grow but then fail to develop and shrivel, rot, or fall off the vine. So, it may be necessary to hand-pollinate winter squash flowers – which is easy to do! Simply collect some pollen from an open male flower and transfer it to the center of an open female flower. We usually use a small paintbrush, though a q-tip works as well. You only need to pollinate each squash/female flower once. See the photos below, and learn more about hand-pollinating squash here.

Don’t worry if your winter squash only has male or female flowers at first. That’s common for young plants; the ratio will even out as the plant matures. Plus, you may not want to pollinate the very first squash or two that appears anyways (especially if the plant is still quite small) since that will make the plant focus its energy on developing fruit instead of growing larger in size first.   


A four way image collage, the first image shows the inside of a squash blossom that has three squash bees collecting pollen. The second image shows a small butternut squash that has just opened its flower to be pollinated. The third image shows a male squash flower, the fourth image shows a the inside of a male squash flower.
Female squash blossoms have a baby fruit at the base and bulbous stigma inside, while male blossoms have a plain straight stem and pollen-covered anther inside. Use a small paintbrush, q-tip, or gently peel open the male flower to transfer pollen into the center of female flower.


Can you grow winter squash in a pot?


Yes, it’s possible to grow winter squash and pumpkins in containers. Yet due to their large size and high water and nutrient demand, winter squash performs best in big pots. Choose a container that is at least 20 to 24 inches deep and wide, or holds at least 15 or 25 gallons of soil. Half wine barrels are perfect! Also ensure the container has plenty of drainage holes, and is filled with high quality potting soil amended with compost. Otherwise, the other growing tips covered in this article apply to potted pumpkins and winter squash too!


Disease and Pest Control


Winter squash and pumpkins are prone to a number of diseases including powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spot, and blight. Powdery mildew is arguably the most common fungal disease that affects winter squash, which appears as irregular white fuzzy spots on the leaves. Mildew isn’t usually fatal to plants, but should still be kept in check. One easy option is to grow varieties that are naturally resistant to powdery mildew. Learn other organic ways to prevent and control powdery mildew in this guide. 

A number of pest insects are attracted to winter squash and pumpkins too. The primary culprits are squash bugs, aphids, and the dreaded squash vine borer. Click on any of the pest names to learn how to control them. Some varieties of squash are naturally resistant to pests, while others are highly susceptible. For instance, blue hubbard squash attracts so many squash bugs and vine borers that it’s often used as a trap crop! In contrast, acorn squash, butternut squash and “cheese pumpkins” are highly resistant to squash vine borers due to their hard stems.

Larger critters may also want a taste of your precious winter squash. Birds may go after young seedlings and tender new growth, while gophers are drawn to eating the roots. Deer, rabbits, rats, squirrels, and other rodents may eat the fruit or foliage. To protect plants, consider using hoops and row covers as needed. We use these chicken wire cloches to cover the plants while they’re still small, and durable gopher baskets to shield the rootball of in-ground plants.


A raised garden bed full of young seedlings that are covered with wire cloches to protect the plants from birds. There are also flowers planted along the edges of the raised beds.
Protecting young squash plants from birds with our favorite chicken wire cloches.
A birds eye view of the top of a growing hard squash plant, it has white veins contrasting the green leaves.
Note that some squash varieties have harmless natural white spots (variegation) on their leaves too, like this healthy Autumn Frost butternut. This isn’t mildew! Learn how to tell the difference here.


Cold Hardiness: Will winter squash survive frost?


Winter squash isn’t cold hardy. Frost will damage the leaves and fruit, and a hard freeze can kill the plant. In an unexpected frost, protect the plants with frost cover, blankets, or other insulating material (though damage could still occur). It’s important to harvest pumpkins and winter squash intended for longer-term storage before frost, because frost will damage their protective rind and compromise shelf life. Hard squash with frost damage should be harvested within a day or two, stored in the refrigerator, and used or preserved within a week.


A butternut squash on the vine, it has endured a light frost so there are some mild, almost bruise looking spots on the skin which will make the fruit not store as well as normal.
Butternut squash with mild frost damage to the skin after an unexpected cold snap. This one was eaten right away!


When to Harvest Winter Squash and Pumpkins


The time it takes for winter squash to mature depends on the variety you’re growing, ranging from 60 to 120 days to maturity. As harvest time draws near, the leaves will start to turn brown and die back. The stem of a ripe squash should also turn more tan instead of green, and the skin will usually change color.

To check if winter squash is ready for harvest, use the “thumbnail test”: gently poke the skin with your fingernail, and if the skin easily pierces or dents, it’s not ready. Once the skin is tough and dense enough to resist puncture by the thumbnail test, it’s ready. 

Many gardeners wait to harvest winter squash long past they’re technically “ready”, once the vines completely die back but before frost arrives. It’s best to leave winter squash on the vine to mature as long as possible, where it will continue to ripen, develop in flavor, and improve the longevity of shelf life post-harvest. 


How to Harvest Winter Squash


To harvest winter squash, use sharp garden shears to cut the firm stem. Leave a good length of stem connected to the squash, but take care not to cut the vine itself. Avoid breaking the stem off, as this will cause the squash to rot more quickly. If any fruit is cracked, bruised, missing stems, or otherwise damaged, eat those first. Wash off excess dirt, but make sure to thoroughly dry the squash before storage. 


A raised garden bed that contains two butternut squash plants that have all but died back, many butternut squash are still attached to the withering and browning vines. Grow winter squash to have a healthy harvest of vegetables that store for months.
Most of these butternuts are ready for harvest, I was just letting them sit on the vine as long as possible.
Aaron is holding a wicker basket full of freshly harvested butternut squash. His  foot is resting on the corner of a raised garden bed that contains chard and cabbage.


Curing and Storing Winter Squash


Though you can eat and enjoy your winter squash at any time, many varieties benefit from additional resting time to ripen off the vine, where they become more sweet and flavorful over the months to come. 

Immediately after harvest, spread your winter squash out in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Some folks “cure” the squash in a warmer spot (80 to 85 degrees F) for several days before moving it to a cooler location, especially if they feel it was harvested a tad immaturely.

Pumpkins and winter squash store best long-term in a cool, dark, airy location – about 50 to 60°F and 50-70% humidity. We keep ours in a closet under the stairs that stays about 60-65. Avoid storing winter squash in extra-cold damp root cellars or basements. Ideally, keep the squash in a single layer rather than piled on top of one another. 

The time winter squash lasts in storage depends on a number of factors: the variety, maturity at harvest time, and storage conditions. Most winter squash should easily last 2 to 3 months, and many much longer. For example, we were eating good butternut squash this May that was harvested the previous October – over 7 months later! Periodically check your squash stash, and use the ones that are getting wrinkled or soft first.


The top two shelves of a wire rack shelving unit is shown with wicker baskets on the top shelf while the second shelf has butternut squash spaced throughout the shelf for curing.
Curing butternut in a warm room for a few days post-harvest, before moving to a cooler dark location.
A wooden storage rack with 6 shelves contains a variety of vegetables on each rack. Winter squash, onions, and potatoes are each arrange on different shelves throughout the rack.
Since we’re growing more winter squash than ever this year, I am definitely going to invest in this awesome harvest storage rack from Gardener’s Supply this fall! They also have a taller 9-shelf version. I can’t wait.


Recipes: How to Prepare and Eat Winter Squash


Winter squash are most often roasted or used in baking, such as pumpkin sweet bread or butternut squash pie. Yes, you read that right – butternut squash pie! Similar in texture and flavor, many winter squashes can be used interchangeably with pumpkin in recipes – especially butternut, kabocha, and hubbard types. 

The easiest way to roast winter squash is to cut it in half (from stem to bottom), scoop out the guts and seeds, and roast the halves whole. You can roast them face-up with a sprinkle of seasonings, oil, or butter in the hollow cavity, or roast them flesh-side down. I also like to carefully peel and cut butternut into bite-size cubes or “french fries”, toss them in olive oil and seasonings, and bake them like potatoes. 

We also love to use butternut squash in soup, like this creamy roasted butternut squash soup with sage, or add cubed chunks to our favorite kale lentil soup recipe. We also make a killer vegan roasted sugar pie pumpkin 3-bean chili (and often substitute butternut in that recipe too). Or, try our seasoned rice stuffed acorn squash recipe!

Delicata squash has exceptionally thin, edible skin, so peeling isn’t necessary. This makes it especially popular for quick and easy preparation, and even used on salads. Once cooked, spaghetti squash flesh pulls apart into long “noodles” – a fun one for adults and kids alike! 

Last but not least, don’t forget the winter squash seeds are edible too! Learn how to make the most crunchy, delicious and nutritious soaked and roasted pumpkin seeds here (or other hard squash).


A four way image collage, the first image shows a baked butternut "pumpkin" pie sitting in a glass pie container. The second image shows 4 halves of butternut squash cut lengthwise sitting face up on a baking sheet. They have been roasted in the oven and contain caramelized brown and black spots throughout the flesh. The third image shows two slices of pumpkin bread sitting on a small white plate, beyond is the rest of the pumpkin bread sitting on a wire cooling rack. The fourth image shows a metal bowl full of cubed butternut squash that are sitting amongst fresh herbs like oregano, sage, and thyme. Grow winter squash to create a variety of delicious homemade meals.
Drooling yet?
The roasted pumpkin chili is shown garnished with avocado slices and cilantro leaves. Surrounding the bowl in a decorative fashion are halves of roasted pumpkin, slices of sourdough bread as well as half of the remaining loaf, half an avocado, sprigs of cilantro, and sprigs of oregano.
Even meat-eaters love our vegan roasted pumpkin chili!


Preserving Winter Squash or Pumpkin


The best way to preserve winter squash and pumpkin is to roast, puree, and then freeze it. Then use your homemade squash puree in any recipe that calls for canned pumpkin, including in baking, soups, stew and more. See the easy instructions here. Winter squash and pumpkin can also be pressure canned.


DeannaCat is holding a pint mason jar full of homemade pumpkin puree. It is vibrant orangish yellow in color, in the background there are two more pints of the pumpkin puree along with a few pumpkin seeds scattered about.
Learn how to make and freeze roasted pumpkin (or winter squash) puree here.


Feeling excited about squash yet?


Well friends, I hope you’re feeling as pumped about growing winter squash as I am now. They really are so beautiful and fun to grow – and eat! Not to mention winter squash it absolutely loaded with antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and fiber. We didn’t even touch on all the health benefits they provide! Please let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and pin or share this post if you found it useful.


You may also enjoy:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

The post Growing Winter Squash and Pumpkins: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Homestead and Chill.

]]>
https://homesteadandchill.com/growing-winter-squash-pumpkins/feed/ 10 2060032