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Getting Started,  Plan - Design - DIY,  Vegetables

How to Start a Fall Garden: Best Fall Vegetables to Grow

Summertime, and the livin’s easy… and time to start thinking about your winter or fall garden! Wait… what? Yep, it sure is. Perhaps your tomatoes aren’t even ripen yet, but early to mid-summer is the perfect time to plan a fall garden – and possibly even start sowing seeds for it! Whether you’re new to fall gardening, or simply curious to see our favorite vegetable varieties to grow in fall, follow along for plenty of helpful tips and fresh ideas.

In this guide, you will learn everything you need to know to successfully grow a fall garden. First we’ll talk about when and how to start a fall garden, including the best time to start seeds and plant a fall garden in YOUR zone – with planting schedules provided for every USDA hardiness zone. We’ll also explore the best vegetables to grow in fall (or even over winter), including our personal favorite varieties of cool season crops like cabbage, broccoli, carrots, leafy greens, and even some flowers!

This post will also cover which fall vegetables can tolerate a light frost vs hard freeze, along with several ways to extend your fall growing season and help plants survive late heat waves or early frost. Last but not least, I’ve provided tips on how to turnover or clear, fertilize, and prepare garden beds before fall planting.


Click here to jump straight to the list of our favorite fall varieties

DeannaCat is kneeling next to her raised garden beds in the front yard, laughing and tossing a big purple radish in her hand. The garden beds surrounding her are full of tender winter vegetables, kale, cabbage, cauliflower, bok choy, asian greens, radishes, and swiss chard to only name a few. Directly behind here is a wall of flowering perennial bushes that have pink and purple flowers, a wall of passion fruit vines is just beyond that and there are various small trees scattered about the area. This is the start of a fall garden.
Fall 2019 in our old front yard garden. I honestly love growing food in the fall and winter just as much as summer!
A view of the raised bed fall garden, young vegetable plants from lettuce, bok choy, cabbage, and other leafy greens are shown in the dusk light.
Fast forward a couple years (2021) – the start of our first fall garden at the new homestead.

Need Fall Seeds?


As you go through our list of favorite fall vegetable varieties, you’ll quickly notice they’re almost all from High Mowing Seeds. That’s where we get 99% of our seeds these days! High Mowing is a fantastic small certified organic seed company that offers a wide variety of quality veggie, flower and herb seeds.

LIMITED OFFER: Use this link + code “23DCAT10” to SAVE 10% on orders over $50 or more, now through August 8, 2023! Using our link helps to support the work we do here at Homestead and Chill. We appreciate you using it, very much!


It's Time to Grow with High Mowing Organic Seeds


Timing: When should I plant a fall garden?


The best time to plant a fall garden depends on your climate and zone. In most places, the fall garden is planted in August or September, but there is no one-size-fits all. As a general rule of thumb, the earlier your area receives frosty winter weather, the sooner you need to plant your fall garden. Meaning, gardeners in northern regions (lower zones) with shorter growing seasons need to get started earlier in the summer than folks in southern climates or higher zone climates, especially if you want to grow from seed.

Find planting calendars for every zone here. The planting schedule will show you a timeframe of when to start seeds indoors, transplant seedlings outside, or plant seeds directly outdoors. Then, check out this tutorial with best practices for starting seeds indoors. If you realize you’re running late, don’t worry! You can always buy and plant fall seedlings from a local nursery if you miss the ideal seed-starting window. Here are some tips on how to select the best seedlings at the nursery. 

Here on the temperate Central Coast of California (zone 9), we start our cool season vegetable seeds indoors (in our “grow room”) in mid-August. Then we transplant fall seedlings outdoors in late September to early October. Except for root veggies, which are directly sowed right in the garden beds around the same time we transplant seedlings. Then, most of our fall crops grow right through winter! Most folks will need to start sooner however, so plants have a chance to mature before freezing weather comes.


A diagram of a planting calendar for Zone 10, there are various vegetables labeled on one side of the diagram and each one has various color coded lines that are associated with when to start seeds inside, transplant, plant seeds outside, as well as the first and last frost dates.
An example of the Homestead and Chill planting calendars – available for zones 2 through 12! If you aren’t sure what your USDA hardiness zone is, try this simple zipcode lookup tool.


When is it too late to plant a fall garden?


In addition to your climate, timing depends on what fall vegetables you’re growing. Some fast-growing fall crops can be ready to harvest within as little as 30 days after planting, while others take several months to mature. Even more, some plants are sensitive to frost (so you’ll want those to mature and harvest before it arrives) while other fall crops are quite cold-hardy, and easily withstand frost once established. See a list of frost-tolerant vegetables below.

One method is to look at the first frost date for your area – or the average time of year the first fall or winter frost will arrive. (Frost dates are marked on our planting calendars, though they may vary slightly due to microclimates). Then, pay attention to the days to maturity of the vegetable variety you’re growing – which is the time it takes to mature after transplanted .

For instance some cauliflower varieties can mature within 45 days, while other cauliflower varieties take up to 90. With a little math and looking at the calendar, you should be able to work backwards and estimate if that crop will have time to mature before freezing conditions arrive. (But again, many fall crops can survive frost.)

A word of caution for gardeners with mild winters like ours: even if you don’t get frost or hard freezes, don’t wait too long to plant your fall garden! Seedlings planted in the middle of winter will grow slowly and struggle to thrive because of the shorter days (less sun) and cooler soil temperatures at that time. We see a huge difference in the seedlings we plant in early October over those we’ve attempted to plant in November, which essentially stall out.

Feeling pressed for time? See 13 Fast-Growing Vegetable Fall Crops here – all of which are ready to harvest within 60 days! Plus, keep reading to see several ways to extend your fall garden season below.


Aaron is sitting on a bench behind a few raised garden beds which are full of bok choy and other leafy greens. A few wicker baskets are in the foreground containing freshly harvested chard, bock choy, mustard greens, radishes, as well as a few persimmons and avocados.
Leafy greens and radishes grow quickly in the fall!


What types of vegetables should I grow in a fall garden? 


Fall is a marvelous time to grow cool season crops that thrive in colder weather, including leafy greens, brassicas, root vegetables, and more. Our favorite varieties of each is included at the end of this post!


Fall crops include:


A flat lay of various harvested vegetables, a beautiful array of bok choy, chard, leafy greens, cauliflower, radishes, carrots, passionfruit, and tangerines. Colors range from white, to purple, to green, red, and orange.


Spring vs Fall Planting


The fall garden is also a great opportunity for a second chance to grow cool season vegetables that maybe didn’t grow well in early spring, or things you forgot to plant or didn’t have space for. 

While many cool season crops can grow during spring OR autumn, some are much happier in the fall! Seedlings grow quickly during the long, sunny days of late summer, but mature to harvest later when the weather is cool – which many of them prefer. In fact, some crops taste better and sweeter after a light frost, including kale, cabbage, carrots, turnips, beets, leeks, and radishes. The arrival of cooler weather and shorter days will also slow or prevent bolting (when plants prematurely flower and go to seed) – a common issue for spring-planted cool season crops.

Also, many of the vegetables on the list above aren’t exclusively cool season crops! Some of them can also be grown in the summer in mild climates, or with the right care and a thoughtful selection of varieties.


A flat lay image a variety of freshly harvest veggies on a round table. Bok choy leaves, daikon radishes, cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, and kohlrabi make up the veggie harvest.
Some leafy greens, napa cabbage, broccoli, and daikon radishes can be tricky to grow in spring, as the increasingly warm weather often leads to bolting, bitterness, or other issues before they mature. Try growing them in fall instead!


Are there any flowers you can plant in the fall?


Absolutely! There are a number of beautiful flowers that grow in the fall, and some that are even frost-tolerant. Marigolds, mums, pansies, violas, calendula, snapdragons, strawflower, aster, and rudbeckia are a few great examples. Keep the color poppin’ and pollinators happy in your garden with these 18 flowers that bloom during fall. Like fall veggie crops, it’s best to start fall flowers in the summertime and plant them by late summer to early autumn – since seedlings will be more sensitive to cold snaps. Once established, we’re able to grow chamomile, marigolds, calendula, snapdragons, and more right through winter here in zone 9! (Though they definitely grow and bloom more slowly during winter.)


A view of the raised bed garden as the sun is going down on the horizon. Arches in between beds are covered in solar powered string lights as well as solar powered lamps in a corner of each raised bed.
If you look closely, you can see plenty of flowers growing in our fall/winter garden – mums, zinnias, marigolds, calendula and more.


Starting Early and Extending the Growing Season


Does your garden swiftly change from scalding summer heat to a chilly frosty fall? To be frank, rapidly changing conditions can make it a tad more challenging to start a fall garden… but not impossible! With a few adjustments, you can easily extend your fall growing season by a month or two in each direction. 


Starting Fall Seeds


First, I suggest to get a jump start by starting fall vegetable seeds indoors in the summer. While it is possible to start them outside, cool season seedlings won’t appreciate extreme heat and will be more prone to bolting early. Plus, your garden beds are likely still full of summer veggies anyways, right? I know we don’t have space to direct-sow fall crops during summer…

By starting seeds inside, you can provide fall seedlings with ideal climate-controlled conditions, consistently moist soil, protection from birds, insects, and other undesirable elements while your summer garden finishes up. Just be sure to properly harden off indoor seedlings before transitioning them outdoors to prevent shock and damage. If your summers aren’t brutally hot and you can adequately protect them, feel free to start seeds outside if you prefer. Plus, there’s no shame in NOT starting from seed either – and picking up nursery seedlings later in the summer to early fall instead!


Related resources: Indoor Seed Starting and Seedling Care Guide, 7 Useful Indoor Seed Starting Supplies, and 9 Common Seed-Starting Mistakes to Avoid


DeannaCat is standing behind a table full of tender seedlings to be planted out for the fall garden. She is holding a tray of tender lettuce seedlings that will be planted out as well.
Fall seedlings for our 2022/23 winter garden. Tons of leafy greens and brassicas! We start them indoors under grow lights in our “grow room“, then slowly harden them off for a week before transplanting outside.


Protecting Fall Seedlings and Plants


After planting fall seedlings outside, you may need step in and protect young seedlings from temperature extremes. If early fall is still exceedingly hot in your area, tender cool season crops (such as lettuce and leafy greens) will appreciate a little shade cloth on the hottest days – along with ample moisture and mulch. As winter approaches, frost blankets or cloches can save your plants on chilly nights – allowing them to live for several more weeks to months.

Hoops and row covers are fabulous season-extending tools, which can be used to cover plants with shade cloth or frost blanket row covers as needed. We also use our hoops and fine insect netting row covers to protect young seedlings from the wrath of birds and insects. Mulch is also essential to keep plants happy and extend the growing season! In addition to helping with moisture retention and weed suppression, mulch insulates the soil and protect plant roots from temperature swings.


Related resources: Learn more about using hoops and row covers in this article, including various hoop options, frost blanket weights, shade cloth types, and more. Or, visit these guides on how to protect your garden from heat waves or frost for even more ideas.


Many raised garden beds are lined up in neat rows, each one covered in hoops and shade cloth to protect the tender seedlings from extreme heat.
Heat waves are common here in late fall, so we cover the cool season crops with shade cloth on extra warm days to prevent stress and bolting.
Raised garden beds are shown at dusk, covered with row covers. The sky is shown in the background, a bright glowing orange sun has illuminated the horizon with shades of pink and purple mixed in. There are various trees and plants that are visible in the dwindling light.
Similarly, we have frost cloth ready to cover and protect plants if needed, especially tender young seedlings.


What vegetables can tolerate frost?


Almost all fall vegetables that can tolerate some frost once established. For example, celery, bok choy, peas, Chinese cabbage, and most lettuce can tolerate light frost (31 to 34 F). Other fall vegetables can withstand a true hard freeze (below 28F) including beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, garlic, kohrabi, kale, onions, leeks, radishes, romanesco, spinach, and turnips. Exact cold temperature tolerance depends on variety.

Frost-sensitive fall vegetables: All young seedlings are susceptible to frost damage, especially indoor-grown seedlings recently transplanted outside. Tender greens like lettuce, bok choy, mustard greens, fava beans, or other thin-leafed greens may be damaged in frost, though the plant (roots) can survive and continue to grow. Finally, heat-loving summer crops like tomatoes, basil, eggplant, peppers, squash, beans and melon cannot tolerate frost or freezing conditions.

Last year we invested in a nifty home weather station to better monitor our fall garden temperatures. We found it was consistently about 5 degrees colder overnight at our homestead than the weather predicted, so now we can be more watchful and prepared to bust out the frost cloth when needed!


A view from the inside of a raised garden bed that is covered with frost cloth. The raised bed is full of mature lettuce that is growing in rows. Frost cloth can help your fall garden last well into freezing weather.
We love growing lettuce in fall, but often cover it with frost cloth when frost is in the forecast – especially since our garden seems even colder than the weather predicts!


Preparing Garden Beds for Fall Planting


When it comes time to plant fall seedlings outside, you may have some tough decisions to make. Unless you have a large garden space, chances are your garden beds are still currently occupied by summer crops.

We’ve definitely pulled tomatoes, peppers, and other summer crops that were still producing in order to get our fall garden planted on time. (Priorities!) Thankfully, most of the shorter-lived summer plants are usually on their natural decline already – such as zucchini, bush beans, spring-planted annual flowers, herbs, or leafy greens. Even if your main garden is full of things you don’t want to remove yet, you could grow some autumn crops in containers or fabric grow bags too!

To clear old plants from the garden, we usually prefer to cut them out at the soil line and leave the roots in place (no-dig or no-till style). Next, we amend the soil in our raised garden beds with slow-release organic fertilizer and well-aged compost before planting. The fall vegetables will appreciate the replenishment of nutrients that the summer crops used up! After planting, we also top off the beds with a fresh layer of mulch.


See these related guides: How to Amend & Fertilize Garden Bed Soil Between Seasons and Transplanting Seedlings Outside: Tips for Success


A raised bed garden with three of the beds being just planted out with young seedlings for a new season, bok choy, cabbage, and other greens being the bulk of the plants. The other raised beds that haven't been switched over still contain peppers, basil and various other summer veggies.
Here you can see we already turned over 3 raised beds with fall seedlings and fresh mulch, but still have summer crops growing in the surrounding beds – giving them a couple more weeks to finish up.
A raised bed garden is shown with a variety of vegetables growing in it. A raised bed in the foreground still has melons growing in it while the raised beds beyond have been replanted with fall garden transplants such as cabbage and bok choy.
Certain crops like melons, tomatoes, and winter squash can grow late into fall here. Now, we try to plan in advance and in spring, plant those crops in spots we know we can leave them longer, while we turnover other beds sooner.
A raised garden bed is getting transitioned to a fall garden, the bed is getting planted out with new lettuce seedlings for a cooler season crop.
Transplanting fall seedlings on a fairly cool, calm day – with no extreme weather in the forecast for the coming week. See transplanting best practices here.


Choosing the best vegetable varieties for your fall garden


Before I share my list of our favorite fall vegetable varieties to grow below, keep in mind that the exact cultivars that do well in our area may not perform quite the same in yours. So, let’s quickly talk about tailoring your selections to your climate.

Seek out things that sound like they’d be good to eat AND would be happy and productive in your climate and garden. Every variety of vegetable will have a description and unique characteristics. For instance, certain broccoli varieties are more or less heat-tolerant or cold-hardy than other types of broccoli.

Read plant descriptions carefully, and be on the lookout for key words like frost-tolerant, heat-tolerant (slow to bolt), days to maturity, natural resistance to certain diseases, “excellent for cold northern climates” (or southern), larger or tighter growing habits for small spaces, soil temperature needs, and so on. Compare between a few varieties. You’ll also learn what varieties grow best in your garden with time and experimentation!

In our garden, we always lean towards varieties that have natural resistance to powdery mildew because it’s SO prevalent here. We also look for heat-tolerant or bolt-resistant cool season varieties since our fall weather is often hotter than summer! Gardeners in northern climates may want to select “early maturing” or extra cold-hardy fall cultivars.


A collection of seed packs and seed catalogs arranged on a table. The seed packs are organized in individual plastic 4x6 inch cases that were originally intended for photographs. There is a small paper binder with a pen sitting on top of it and the seed catalogs are arranged as one would hold a hand of cards.
I love going through our seed storage box collection and shopping for new seeds! High Mowing is our favorite place to buy organic seeds, but you can find a full list of our top-choice seed companies here.


THE BEST FALL VEGETABLE VARIETIES


Without further ado, here is a full list of our tried-and-true favorite fall vegetable varieties to grow. While we’re always open to experiment with new cultivars (and often do!) these are the trusty ones we return to year after year.


Broccoli and Cauliflower Varieties


I’m lumping these two heading brassicas together since they grow fairly similarly. Both take about two to three months from seedling to harvest. Between the two, I’m especially fond of growing cauliflower. It comes in so many beautiful colors!

  • Goodman Cauliflower – A classic white cauliflower that has always grown beautifully for us. It is known to be an early-producer.
  • Violetta Purple Cauliflower – This is one popular purple cauliflower variety. It has gorgeous large purple heads, and is moderately tolerant to frost and light freezing. Lavender is another pretty purple cauliflower we’ve enjoyed growing.
  • Cheddar Cauliflower – Aptly named, cheddar cauliflower is a beautiful light orange color. We’ve also had great success with similar Flame Star.
  • Romanesco – With its trippy fractal design and chartreuse green color, romanesco is a true show-stopper. It is just as delicious as it is attractive! Romanesco tastes similar to cauliflower, but more nutty and mildly sweet. 
  • Belstar Broccoli –  We have tried various kinds of broccoli over the years, but keep coming back to Belstar. It produces fairly early medium-size tight heads. Once the main head is harvested, the plant continues to provide a ton of small side shoots – like mini heads or broccolini. It has great heat tolerance so it never bolts on us, and overwinters well in mild climates.
  • Covina – another reliable classic broccoli variety we like. It’s known to perform well in a wide range of conditions, even under stress!
  • De Cicco – It produces a small central head (but quickly!) and prolific side shoots thereafter, providing for a long harvest window. We treat this one more like broccolini or sprouting broccoli.


Related: How to Grow Cauliflower from Seed to Harvest


A large head of broccoli still growing is featured, a hand is touching the bottom of the head to illustrate the size of the vegetable. The broccoli plant greens are growing upwards around the head.
Belstar broccoli
A close up image of a head of growing Romanesco cauliflower. The head is light green in color and is made up of hundreds of conical buds that make up the edible portion of the vegetable. They start out large at the bottom and continue to get smaller and more compact until a main point is created at the top-middle portion of the head.
Veronica romanesco
A Purple of Sicily cauliflower is featured. Its magenta purple head is quite the contrast to its mass of surrounding green leaves.
Purple cauliflower
Aaron is holding a large head of Goodman cauliflower. It has a tight head with a few green leaves poking out that are still attached to the stem.
Aaron and a Goodman cauliflower head


Cabbage and Brussels Sprouts Varieties


Did you know that Brussels sprouts are essentially baby heads of cabbage growing along a stalk? They’re also one of our favorite winter veggies to eat (garlic and herb balsamic-glazed roasted Brussels, anyone?) Note that cabbage and Brussels sprouts both need a long growing season to mature (up to 3 months), but will also both tolerate frost and light freezes once they’re established. 


  • Expect Cabbage – My current favorite green cabbage variety with dense, uniformly round 5 to 9 pound green heads and notable heat tolerance.
  • Megaton Grow this for a ton of fun, and cabbage! This green variety bears massive heads up to 17 pounds, yet remain tender and sweet.
  • Caraflex – a fun petite variety that produces small conical (pointed!) green heads on compact plants.
  • Integro – Our trusty go-to red cabbage variety, with beautiful medium size heads. They store well, are tasty, and great raw as slaw, cooked, or fermented into kraut. We can store red cabbage in the fridge for months after harvest without it going bad! 
  • Red Acre – Another popular and early producer of tight medium size red heads.
  • Brunswick – This heirloom variety of green cabbage is one of our go-tos, but it does take longer to mature than some. However, it is extra cold-hardy! It produces large drumhead type (slightly flattened) heads that store well, and is awesome for all types of cabbage creations and recipes. 
  • Emiko Napa Cabbage – our favorite compact, bolt-tolerant Napa variety.
  • Brussels Sprouts: We grew Dagan Brussels sprouts in fall 2020 and totally loved them! Despite being in less-than-ideal conditions (a partially shaded bed in the corner of our old garden) it produced very well for us. Nautic Brussels are a great option too. The sprouts are spaced further apart on the stalk, and the plants are tall and less dense in general, leading to less disease and an easier harvest of individual sprouts. 


Related: Visit our cabbage grow guide here. Since brassicas are especially prone to aphids, so be sure to check out our organic aphid control tips! Also learn how to control cabbage worms here.


DeannaCat is holding a very large Brunswick green cabbage. She is wearing a white and black flannel shirt with dark blue jeans. She is smiling as she looks down on the enormous head of cabbage.
Me and my 7-pound Brunswick cabbage baby
A red cabbage has been cut in half to show the inside of the vegetable.
Integro cabbage
A two part image of Brussels sprouts growing in a fall garden. The first image shows a handful of harvest Brussels sprouts with the plants growing in a raised bed in the background. The second image shows a stalk of the plants with small Brussels sprouts growing along the main stem.
Dagan Brussels sprouts


Lettuce and Leafy Green Varieties


We’re allll about the leafy greens here. They’re delicious, nutritious, easy to grow, and start producing quickly – making greens an excellent choice when you have a limited timeframe for a fall garden. And if your climate allows, they can last for a really long time too! Especially if you use the cut and come again harvest method to perpetually harvest from the same plants for many, many months like we do.

  • Kale: Kale is ideal to grow in the fall and winter; it actually gets sweeter after a light frost! Many varieties can even survive snow. Our favorite varieties are Dazzling BlueLacinatoRed Russian, and Scarlet kale, though curly varieties like Dwarf Green Curled kale and Meadowlark kale are even more cold tolerant. You can learn more about growing kale here.
  • Bok Choy: Joi Choi is my favorite leafy green to grow, ever. We also enjoy Prize Choy. Both have large thick stems and an open plant structure, perfect for prolonged cut-and-come-again harvesting. I only suggest tighter baby bok boy for folks with a shorter growing season, as the whole head needs to be harvested at once.
  • Swiss chard: My favorites include the beautiful Peppermint chard, Pink passion chard, and gorgeous yellow-stemmed Sunset Chard. While it is less showy, white-stemmed Fordhook swiss chard is great too. It is slower to bolt, has huge leaves, and continues to provide over a long growing season.
  • Mustard Greens: Yum! If you like zesty, spicy, absolutely gorgeous mustard greens, Japanese Red Giant are a must-grow. Green Wave mustards (prolific and cold tolerant) and Red Splendor (spunky mustard flavor, frilly, slow-to-bolt) are other varieties we really enjoy. 
  • Lettuce: We love to grow Jericho romaine, NevadaFrecklesMagentaRed Mist, and Muir. They’re all heat tolerant (slow-bolting) which is great for our warm fall days, and have an open head structure, perfect for prolonged cut-and-come again harvests.
  • Spinach: Space spinach and Renegade spinach are two bolt-resistant spinach varieties we enjoy to grow. Cold-climate growers should take a look at exceptionally cold-hardy Giant Winter spinach too. Flamingo spinach is another that has performed very well for us, growing on taller plants with continued production.
  • Arugula: I love arugula! Especially Esmee arugula (more nutty than spicy, exceptionally cold tolerant) or Astro arugula (moderately spicy, excellent heat and cold tolerance, and good for cut-and-come-again harvest). 
  • Other Asian Greens: We also always grow Yukina Savoy (similar to tatsoi but much larger leaves and more heat tolerant) Vitamin Green (similar to Yukina but less frilly), and Komatsuna greens (heat tolerant).


A raised garden bed full of tatsoi, Yukina savoy, and red mustard greens, growing upwards amongst metal hoops that are arched over the raised bed. A raised garden bed sits beyond it with similar hoops arched over the bed. Bok choy, asian greens, cabbage, and kale are billowing out of the raised bed.
Beds full of cut-and-come again greens. In the front bed: Yukina Savoy and Red Splendor mustard greens. In the back: Joi Choi bok choy, Prize Choy, Vitamin Green Asian greens, and Madeley kale.
A four way image collage, the first image shows the center growth tips from a kale plant, the second image shows the understory of a canopy of bok choy growing, the third image shows the understory of a chard plant growing, and the fourth image shows the view of a few rows of a variety of lettuce growing in a raised bed.
Dazzling blue kale, Joi Choi bok choy, Peppermint Swiss chard and a variety of lettuces.
A flat lay of a fresh harvest of winter vegetables is shown. They are arranged in various wicker baskets which are only visible on a few of their edges and one has a handle. There is an array of bok choy, red mustard greens, rainbow chard, tatsoi, and asian greens. All of the vegetables are vivid in color ranging from white, green red, yellow, purple, and shades in between.
A harvest of bok choy, swiss chard, mustard greens, kale, and more.


Root Vegetable Varieties: Carrots, Beets, Radishes and more


It is best to sow root vegetable seeds directly outside, as opposed to starting them in containers and transplanting them. They don’t like their roots disturbed and get shocked and stunted easily. Peas and beans also prefer to be directly sown. The one exception is beets. If you start beet seeds in a large enough container (such as small 4” pots), thin them early (trim out the unwanted sprouts), and transplant them before they get too large or root bound in the slightest, they usually grow just fine. 

  • Radishes: Give me all the radishes! A few of our favorite varieties include Pink Beauty, Easter Egg, White Icicle, Sora red round, Alpine, Bravo daikons, and long white daikon .
  • Carrots: We are always experimenting with new varieties of carrots, and love to plant a wide range of colors. Some favorites include DolcivaCosmic PurpleNavalScarlet Nantes, and more.
  • Beets: Boro beets are my favorite classic red variety. They’re beautiful, uniform, nearly blemish-free, and stayed tender despite getting very large (perfect for extended harvests at varying sizes over several months). I also really enjoy cylindrical Formanova and gorgeous bullseye Chioggia.
  • Turnips: Classic Purple Top White Globe turnips are awesome. While turnips aren’t necessarily my favorite root veggie, I really enjoy grating them with potatoes (half and half) to make low-carb hash browns! I also like Tokyo market turnips – small round tender white salad turnips.


Related: Get tips on how to successfully grow carrots in our carrot grow guide, or information about growing radishes here.


A four way image collage of a fall garden harvest. The first image shows a handful of three beets with their tops being held towards the sky. The second image shows a beet that has been cut in half to reveal its pink and white stripes within. The third image shows a bunch of pink radishes that have been harvested sitting inside a wicker basket. The fourth image  shows a handful of carrots being held by their greens after being washed after the harvest.
A wicker basket of freshly harvest yellow, orange, and purple carrots along with a wicker basket of chioggia beets, a few of the beets have been cut in half to show their peppermint striped insides.


Alliums


  • Garlic – Garlic is a very cold-hardy crop, traditionally planted in the fall in most places. It overwinters well even in freezing conditions (especially hardneck garlic varieties), and is ready to harvest the following late spring to early summer. Inchelium red is one we always grow, though we often experiment with other varieties too! Learn more about choosing the right garlic varieties for your climate here, including important differences between softneck and hardneck garlic. Also visit our garlic grow guide for tips on planting, ongoing care, how to harvest and cure garlic, and more.

  • Onions – Spring is the best time to plant onions in most places. However, gardeners with mild winters like ours can also plant them in late summer for winter or spring harvest. We love to grow Walla WallaRossa Di Milano red onions, and Calibra. Short day, intermediate day, or day-neutral onion varieties usually do best over winter, given the reduced daylight hours. Get tips on growing onions from seeds, sets or seedlings here!

  • Leeks – Like onions, leeks are usually a spring crop in most places, but can be planted in fall and grown over winter in places with temperate winter weather (little to no frost). We grow them year round here! A few of our favorite leek varieties include Runner, Surfer, and Tadorna. Leeks are usually categorized as “long season” or “short season” varieties. Please visit our leek grow guide to learn more, including how to choose the best varieties for your climate.


A slotted wooden table has many freshly harvested onions and garlic, both with their greens still attached, drying on the table from a fall garden harvest.


Miscellaneous


  • Peas. Sugar snap peas are a spring and fall staple! We also grow snow peas on occasion, but definitely favor snap peas – for both raw eating or cooking.
  • Fava Beans. Favas are fantastic multi-purpose plants. Because of their ability to fix nitrogen and enrich soil, fava beans are often grown as cover crops. Yet they’re really delicious too – beans and leaves included! Bees also love their unique black and white flowers. Classic Windsor fava beans are our go-to variety. Read more about growing and using fava beans here.
  • Kohlrabi. I love this alien-like veggie! Kohlrabi is a member of the cabbage or brassica family, and tastes like a super sweet, crisp, juicy inner portion of a fat broccoli stem. KordialKolibri, and Kossak kohlrabi are a few varieties we often grow.


Two hands holding a large handful of freshly harvest fava beans, she is holding them as one would spread out a deck of cards. Some of the beans are at least eight inches long, there are fava bean plants growing in the background with hundreds of white flowers set against their dense green foliage.
Windsor fava beans
A close up image showing a purple kohlrabi growing amongst a row of the same vegetable. The featured root protrudes from the soil by its taproot which sticks out of the ground by a half inch or so before the edible portion of the root begins. It grows leaves throughout various parts of its root, not just from the top like many other roots. The greens are leafy with purple veins.
Purple kohlrabi
A fall garden view of five wooden raised beds with a variety of fall vegetables growing in them. Radishes, cabbage, bok choy and mustard greens to only name a few.
Unlike many summer crops, you can fit SO many compact fall veggies in the same garden bed.


And that’s when and how to grow a fall garden.


Well shoot, now I’m feeling super stoked for the upcoming growing season! How about you? I hope this guide made you feel inspired and prepared to grow an autumn garden of your own, and gave you plenty of new fresh ideas for the best fall vegetables to grow. Did I happen to miss any of your favorite things? Please let us know in the comments, or feel free to ask any questions. Thank you so much for tuning in today, and happy planting!


Other useful resources to explore:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing


18 Comments

  • Sandy J

    I am so excited to see you are on the Central Coast, me too. Near Paso Robles. So jelly of your garden, by the look of it, you are South of the Grade more near the coast. So beautiful. 🙂 PS love your row covers, I have been using PVC, way ugly.

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Bob, we mostly just feed ourselves with some going to neighbors here and there. We are vegetarian so we consume a lot of vegetables during lunch and dinner, we also like to preserve a lot of our harvest by fermenting.

  • Cat

    Your cold weather crops are beautiful! Even though I try to be vigilant about cabbage worms, they seem to destroy my crop every year! What do y’all do to get such gorgeous cole veggies (and keep the bugs off)? tia

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Cat, fall and winter gardening is really our favorite time to garden as the vegetables and garden usually look great and we can produce a large amount of food for ourselves. To keep pests away, we usually don’t do a whole lot actually. We may have to do spot treatments for aphids here and there and while our brassicas are young we spray with BT a time or two to keep the cabbage worms in check. You probably need to spray BT on a semi regular basis to keep the cabbage worm population down in your garden. Have you checked out our article on 8 Organic Ways to Get Rid of Cabbage Worms & Cabbage Moths? Hope that helps and good luck!

    • Erin

      Hi Cat,

      I’m thinking of starting my fall seeds in my green house and transplant in October. Do you think it’s too hot in Chico Ca to start my seeds now in August in a green house? Or should I start them outside?

      • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

        Hi Erin, since Chico will still be quite hot for the next two months, starting seeds in a greenhouse may be too hot for seed starting. Does your greenhouse get any shade during the day? Do you have shade cloth that you can set up in the greenhouse to reduce the amount of sunlight that filters through or do you have fans inside that help circulate air? I would shoot for morning to mid day sun with mid to late afternoon shade if you have an area that would allow for this. With warm weather you are going to be battling keeping your seedlings watered as their small amount of soil can dry quickly in hot weather. You can always start your seeds indoors on a heat mat and bring them outside once they sprout so they can be exposed to light without getting too leggy. Hope that helps and let us know how it turns out or if you have any more questions, good luck!

  • TByrd

    Hi there! I’m starting my first small raised bed garden this fall. Your website has been a wonderful source of information and inspiration.
    Since I don’t have space to setup grow lights inside or a greenhouse, I’m planning to direct sow the seeds for my fall vegetables. Since my zone is 9b / central Florida I’m pretty sure I’ll have plenty of growing time to harvest, but am I making a mistake by direct sowing instead of starting seedlings? What things should I be on the lookout for with direct sowing? Thank you!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hey TByrd, glad you’re finding the website useful and thank you for checking it out! I would consider germinating your seeds indoors on top of a heat mat and bringing them outside once they sprout to get sunlight. From there you can let the seedlings grow until they need to be transplanted or potted up into a larger container. If you choose to direct sow or even once seedlings are planted out, be aware of birds or other animals who may like to snack on tender seedlings or sprouts. Also insects such as pill bugs or snails will make quick work of small seedlings or sprouts. It just depends on the pests that are in your area and if they are active in your yard/garden or not. Hope that helps and good luck on your gardening adventure!

  • Autem Ostrovski

    Pretty sure you have addressed this question before, but I scrolled through some Instagram posts and articles on here without finding the answer to my question. I also searched my emails, without luck.
    I’ve been subscribed to your weekly newsletter for quite awhile, and totally enjoy your weekly blog posts as well as your IG content. Unfortunately I am unable to find your first email that includes the planning kit. Is there a way I can get get it again?
    Thank you in advance !

    • DeannaCat

      Hi Autem – There is a link for it at the bottom of every weekly newsletter, so check this morning’s email – bottom footer area! Thanks for being a subscriber!

  • Angelica

    Just discovered your site, and all I can say is “Thank you!” It is lovely and so informative for a BRAND new gardener like me. I wanted to know where you bought your row covers, and how you set them up? If it is on the site, please forgive me, I am just getting started with reading EVERYTHING, lol.

  • Samantha

    I recently discovered this site and it has totally transformed my garden (and life). thank you for all of the incredibly informative posts you put out!

  • Oriana

    Once again, it’s like you read my mind! Just the other day I was looking over what to plant for fall and thought, “I wonder if she’ll put out a planting guide.” Thank you so much for the info–especially your plot plan. It helps to get everything ready and organized. Keep up the good work, sister. Your blog is the best!

      • DeannaCat

        Hey there! Soooo, despite the confusing name, winter squash are grown in the summer along with zucchini and summer squash. They are warm-season crops, and are simply called “winter squash” because they’re hard and store well – for many months, into the winter. Because they’re so firm they take longer to cook and are usually prepared in more savory/roasted/baked/stew applications – also perfect for winter. We have grown butternut and pumpkin in the past, but the plants get quite large, only produce a couple squash each, and they often take longer to fully mature (into the fall, especially the bigger ones). Our plants usually get wrecked with powdery mildew by then, plus we need that space to grow other things. When we have a larger garden in the future we’ll grow more winte squash, but right now they simply aren’t worth the valuable real estate for us!

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